This exclusive Daniel Roth timepiece is equipped with a Lépine type mechanical hand-wound DR Calibre 2300 (16 lignes and small seconds lined up with the crown). Launched on the occasion of the International Year of Astronomy (2009), it features an extremely accurate large moon-phase display requiring manual correction only once in every 125 years – hence its name evoking the next scheduled adjustment: Athys Moon 2134. The white-lacquered dial carries hour and minute hands, the brand’s characteristic three-arm seconds hand, a date display and a raised large moon display appearing through a window.
The year 2009 marked both the brand’s 20th birthday and the 400th anniversary of Galileo’s invention of the world’s first telescope. In May 1609, the Italian physicist and astronomer devised an optical system that would enable him, after several months and countless trials, to view the Moon with all its mountains and craters, as well as the sky and its many planets.
To celebrate the event that dramatically changed the history of humankind and its knowledge of the universe, the United Nations Organisation has declared 2009 the International Year of Astronomy, appointed UNESCO as the lead agency and the International Astronomical Union as the implementing body.
The Daniel Roth master-watchmakers wished to improve the often inaccurate existing moon-phase displays. In standard mechanisms, the disc showing two moons comprises 59 teeth. Driven by a one-notch rotation every 24 hours, it performs a half-turn in 28 days and 12 hours. Compared with the real lunar cycle (29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.8 seconds), the display thus accumulates a discrepancy of +44 minutes per lunar cycle, meaning +8.81 hours per year.
The far more complex and accurate astronomical moon-phase mechanism of the Athys Moon 2134 comprises three wheel-and-pinion sets. The first performs a full rotation in 24 hours, driving the second in 7 days, which in turn drives the 135-tooth moon disc. The latter completes a half-turn in 29 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes, which means the relative error amounts to just -0.02 hours or 12 minutes per year. This greatly improved accuracy means adjustment is required just once every 125 years.
Representing a first for Daniel Roth, the Athys Moon 2134 houses an extremely beautiful mechanical hand-wound calibre (DR2300) developed on a Frédéric Piguet 151 base movement. Crafted in harmony with the noblest watchmaking traditions including exquisite Haute Horlogerie finishing and originally designed for pocket-watches, this modified 16-lignes Lépine type movement powers the brand’s iconic three-arm seconds hand, aligned with the crown and constituting an integral part of the main gear train.
The understated and timelessly elegant Athys Moon 2134 finds its natural place within the classic line of which it reflects the main signature characteristics: large Roman numerals, blued steel hands, a “railtrack” minute circle with Arabic numerals and a three-arm seconds hand at 9 o’clock.
These distinctive features are complemented by a date display at 4 o’clock, a raised depiction of the moon between 12 and 4 o’clock in the same colour as the case. The correctors on this model are pushpieces designed to facilitate adjustment operations and avoid any risk of scratching.
Daniel Roth is one of the exceptional luxury watch brands endowed with expertise that is not confined to technical aspects, but which transforms each of the timepieces it creates into an authentic work of art. Founded in 1989, it soon became known and acknowledged among connoisseurs of complications and collectors the world over. The shape of its first timepiece – the twin-face Tourbillon – soon came to symbolise the quintessence of the Daniel Roth style, and continues to embody it to this day.
A distinctive brand marrying an inventive mind-set and a passion for complications with a sophisticated flair for aesthetics and refinement, Daniel Roth was acquired in 1995 by The Hour Glass, a company specialising in the luxury retail trade. This was the start of an international adventure, particularly with the opening of the Asian and American markets. The new millennium provided an opportunity for Daniel Roth to join Bulgari, one of the rare international luxury groups still in the hands of its founding family. The expansion of the brand and of the Manufacture in Le Sentier were pursued, in harmony with a unique style and a determination to share its ideals of exclusivity and excellence. Since then, the management has spared no effort to reinforce the essence of the products from which the brand has always drawn its strength: innovation and technical mastery, high-end finishing and a design that is both classic and contemporary.
Every single Daniel Roth creation is entirely crafted in the workshops at Le Sentier, where a small group made up of the finest technicians and watchmakers is capable of developing and making every kind of complicated movement from start to finish. After months of meticulous work, the delicate assembly of hundreds of components followed by gauging and the most precise adjustments create a harmonious alliance of art and technology. The movements are housed in cases featuring the immediately recognisable “Daniel Roth” shape that has become the true symbol of the brand. The double elliptical shape of the case, coupled with the guilloché patterns of the dial; the three-arm small seconds hand or the version with a rounded T-shaped counterpoise; and the new crown with seven concave and convex grooves: this distinctive array of signature features blends particularly well with the high-end decorative work on the movements. It is this extreme care devoted to details that has inspired the admiration of prominent collectors all over the world.
History of Daniel Roth watch Brand
In 1989, aided and abetted by talented craftsmen, Daniel Roth rapidly created an atmosphere propitious to the full expression of time-honoured expertise and to the birth of the Grande Complication models for which the brand was to become famous. By combining demanding technical standards with an original design, the Manufacture soon built up a strong reputation in the field of international fine watchmaking.
From 1999 onwards, the reins of the company were taken up by the able hands of Gérald Roden, a visionary individual with 20 years of watch industry experience behind him. His mission was to usher the brand into the 21st century, while cultivating its values based on rectitude, honesty and excellence. With his team of designers, engineers and movement design engineers, he established a clear-cut picture of the company’s prospects. He thereby succeeded not only in preserving the excellent reputation built up over its first ten years of existence, but also in marrying the Daniel Roth spirit with the latest technological breakthroughs. In 2000, Daniel Roth began developing its own Manufacture-made proprietary calibres – which now equip six Tourbillon and Perpetual Calendar models – as well as other original complicated watches such as the Papillon Chronograph. That was the year the brand joined the Bulgari group which, in its ongoing pursuit of excellence, encompasses several companies including some specialising in the production of dials and wristbands.
Taking this direction proved an effective means of reassuring collectors around the world regarding the perpetuation and development of the brand heritage that is jealously safeguarded by the current team. With a production of around 1,500 watches per year, backed by investments in state-of-the-art machinery and in more spacious, pleasant and environment-friendly premises, the company also clearly displayed its goal: that of achieving steady and reasonable growth enabling it to achieve the greatest possible independence. Such progress naturally depends on appropriate control of its own production, while ensuring perfect mastery of quality.
The brand signature
The Daniel Roth spirit: The traditional vision of the watchmaking profession is embodied in each of the timepieces emerging from its workshops. Loyalty to ethical principles and respect for the brand values continue to be scrupulously observed by each individual artisan. Each creation is still entirely made in-house, with a small group composed of the finest technicians and watchmakers able to develop and produce all the complication movements in their entirety. Each part is still individually fashioned and artistically finished. Each master-watchmaker still keeps personal control of each stage in the making of a Grande Complication watch. The scrupulous selection of materials and the extreme care lavished on tiny details and on quality controls are as uncompromisingly stringent as ever. That is what it takes, by dint of months of meticulous craftsmanship, along with the assembly of hundreds of parts and countless fine adjustments, to ensure the creation of sheer mechanical marvels.
A powerful style: From 1989 with the launch of the twin-faced Tourbillon, the Daniel Roth style immediately asserted itself within the ultra-select circle of Haute Horlogerie brands. It is defined by excellence and refinement, along with an inimitable design.
Cases: In reflecting on the construction of his first case, Daniel Roth designed a perfect circle with cut sides. He then duplicated the first shape thus obtained and, after slightly reducing the diameter of the second, superimposed them to create a case with a totally original design. On exceptional models such as the twin-face 8 Day Tourbillon, the pivoting case features a customisable chassis. Consistently used over the years on all models, this shape now stands for uncompromisingly demanding watchmaking appreciated by connoisseurs the world over.
Dials: The dial of each Grande Complication model is made from an 18-carat gold plate adorned with specific decorations such as guilloché, precious plating, enamelling and gem-setting. On extremely limited series, each dial is one-of-a-kind.
Hands: Fashioned from steel and flame-blued at a temperature of 1300°C for most models, they are an integral part of the Daniel Roth identity. The hour and minute hands are arrow-tipped, while on models with central seconds the hand is adorned with a counter-balance that is echoed in the T of the Daniel Roth balance – a tiny yet extremely elegant feature typical of the brand’s unfailing attention to detail. Other unique characteristic that has also become a brand symbol is the seconds hand with three arms of various lengths gliding around a subdial with three concentric zones and appearing on some models such as the 8 Day Tourbillon or the Athys models.
The Manufacture Daniel Roth:
In 1989, Daniel Roth founded his own brand and set up his Manufacture in the village of Le Sentier (Vallée de Joux), in a building that had once housed a watchmaking workshop back in 1905 and of which he acquired ownership in 1992. This Jura-style construction, typical of the early 20th century Swiss watchmaking traditions with its stone staircases, wooden doors and its clock integrated into the gabled roof, was enriched with a new building at the end of 2007. Featuring industrial-type architecture, its design meets the latest norms in terms of working conditions and environment-friendly features. This modern facility, with its visible structure combining wood, glass and metal, comprises three floors flooded with light pouring through its charming picture windows and literally triples the total surface area of the Manufacture (3,000 m2 in all). Between the two buildings, visitors are welcomed by a bridge arching over a pond.
The value of a manufacturing company is dependent on that of the men and women who work there, all of them driven by unchangingly high demands and a daringly innovative spirit. That is why all the personnel at Daniel Roth – micromechanical engineers, decoration specialists or master-watchmakers – remain deeply committed to time-honoured gestures. Through their dedicated labour, these expert hands daily give rise to truly exceptional creations.
Gerald Roden and his team define the plans of new products in their offices based in Meyrin, Geneva. While the design and the functions are naturally essential to development, the team is also attentive technical innovation. It is in particular concerned with improving the operation of certain functions or of particular movement parts, as well as selecting the finest materials according to their performances. Once this stage is complete, the plans are handed over to the Manufacture in Le Sentier, where the development production phases can begin, backed by rigorous testing and controls.
In the older building of the Manufacture, a team of engineers, assisted by watchmakers specialised in prototype making, translate the movement characteristics onto the computer screen in 2D or 3D drawings. This is what is known as CAD, or Computer-Assisted Design. Depending on whether they are dealing with a new version of a function or with the conception of a whole new movement, the team takes between three to six months to create the first usable drawings. During this period, they meticulously fine-tune the mechanism and check its feasibility. Based on the computerised model that will serve as a working basis for the suppliers involved, another team of engineers develops the case, dial and hands.
From CAD to prototypes:Once the CAD stage is complete, the project is transferred to the new building, adjacent to the first. One entire floor is devoted to the production of components (the mechanical workshop); and another to operations involving watchmakers (watchmaking workshop), as well as to quality control and storage.
This is where production begins on the first parts for the prototypes. After checking that the first batches comply with the brand’s extremely high quality criteria, a prototypist assembles the first parts and expresses his opinion on the overall feasibility of the concept. Several more months are required to test the finalised parts, to perform the required adjustments and to continue production. Some components are machined in the spark-erosion workshop by CNC machinery accurate to within 5/100ths of a millimetre. They are for example capable of creating 15 teeth on each of the four branches of the tiny quarter star of a Grande Sonnerie mechanism, and they do so without applying force to the material, as would be the case with drilling or milling operations.
Thanks to state-of-the-art machinery, the company is capable of manufacturing all parts of a watch, from movement blanks to steel parts, along with the numerous wheels and pinions. In order to free itself from the constraints of subcontracting, and particularly for reasons of quality and delivery times, the Manufacture plans to further increase the percentage of its in-house production.
Decorating the finished parts: The decorations testify to a determination to achieve excellence and to a refinement inherent to Haute Horlogerie. At Daniel Roth, the finishing and decoration are hand-crafted by specialised artisans. Each part is made in five stages: trimming, smoothing the faces, bevelling, initial polishing and finally polishing special areas such as the sides of the countersinks.
The distinctive features of all Daniel Roth movements include rhodium-plating on the bridges and plates, Côtes de Genève on the bridges and circular graining on the plates – operations performed on both visible and non-visible areas. Other key characteristic is the snailed motif on the date discs and other function indicators, achieved by grinding-wheels rotating over the surface of the part in a single direction, so as to achieve a spiral effect.
The bevelling of the edges and angles is done in five stages: five different polishing discs fitted on a lathe perform around 2,000 rotations per minute. The beveller works first with a wooden disc, then with three different leather discs, and finally with a felt disc. The operation may take from a few minutes to a whole day, depending on the part. While certain finishes require the use of a machine such as a polishing lathe, others can only be done by hand using felts, burnishers and stones.
Assembly: Once produced, finished and checked, the components are dispatched according to the watch for which they are intended, to one or other of the assembly workshops that take up the most space on the second floor: the one dealing with “small complications” and the other one with “grand complications”.
The small-complications workshop: All the parts of the chronograph, jumping hour, retrograde or Metropolitan functions are assembled here. The watchmakers in this department have taken six to twelve months’ additional training in order to master all the techniques involved. They receive small series of sets of parts that they fashion by hand from start to finish in an independent manner. Once assembled and cased up, each movement is checked by the master-watchmaker in charge and tested for several days within the workshop.
The grand-complications workshop: Time and patience are of the essence here. A team of highly qualified watchmakers devote themselves entirely to their art, that of assembling tourbillons and perpetual calendars, according to the principle of one watchmaker, one watch. Since the philosophy of the Manufacture is to favour quality rather than quantity, they are able to assemble 12 perpetual calendar models and as many different tourbillons, and to produce 30 watches per type of complication per year. Each timepiece houses several hundred parts, screws and other tiny components, for which the same watchmaker is entirely responsible.
In a perpetual calendar, adjusting the action of the wheels and pinions is an extremely delicate task – whether for a single indicator or for the entire range of day, month and year displays, including leap years. For a “simple” tourbillon carriage, assembly alone can take several days. Several weeks are required to assemble a self-winding tourbillon with perpetual calendar, or the technical feat represented by the 8 Day Tourbillon with its pivoting case. In addition to the tests performed at each stage of assembly, the finished parts are submitted to a minimum of three quality controls.
The striking watches workshop: It is in this third workshop that the most complicated Daniel Roth models spring to life – those that require the most dexterity and experience: striking models. The silence that prevails there is broken only by the Westminster chime of the Grande Sonnerie Moon Phases, a masterpiece of horological complication housing a self-winding tourbillon movement with a four-hammer Grande and Petite Sonnerie producing four notes: G, C, E and D. A little further along, one can sometimes catch the clear, pure sound of the two minute repeater gongs that very few watch Manufacturers are able to produce. Watchmakers work in close cooperation with acoustic engineers with an eye and an ear to the future, who analyse the quality and the richness of the tone and share the results of their research on the “true” notes that will serve as a benchmark for the appropriate vibrations of the gongs. While dedicated software helps them to correct potential flaws, nothing can replace the experience and the ear of a master-watchmaker in this quest for absolute perfection.
Each model is assembled twice. The first time uses a working bridge and serves to test, adjust and verify the reliability of each component. The movement is then taken apart (and all the parts are washed in special machines) before being reassembled with the final decorative bridges. The movements house from 850 to 1,100 parts, which explains why the process can take up to four months (compared with two and a half months for a Tourbillon Moon Phases Date model). It is therefore easy to grasp why a watchmaker can only create a few of these exceptional mechanisms per year.
In addition to the obvious skills deployed, what is most striking in this workshop, as indeed throughout the Manufacture, is the passion driving these men and women bent over their workbench or their machine, some of whom have been loyal to the company from its beginning. They tirelessly blank, cut, trim, sandblast, engrave, assemble, case up, bejewel, circular-grain, assemble and test the various parts with timeless artistry.
Quality control: This department performs three tests relating to compliance with various technical and aesthetic norms on the movements, wristbands and cases, in addition to the tests already conducted in the workshops. For the gold from which the movements are made, the tests verify the thickness and hardness; for base movements from other manufacturers and for cases, the air-tightness and water-tightness; for the exterior, the dial and hands; and for finished watches, their water-tightness to 3 atmospheres (or 10 for some models). The underlying principle is based on the probability that the more tests are performed upstream, the less watches will be returned to the after-sales service department.
1989: Launch of a world first: the twin-faced Tourbillon (Calibre 187). The emblematic shape of Daniel Roth cases is born.
1990: Two models are launched: the Self-winding column-wheel Chronograph (Calibre 147) in classic and skeleton versions, and an Hour Minute model (Calibre 107) with an ultra-thin self-winding movement, measuring just 2.4 mm thick and 27.4 mm in diameter.
1991: Presentation of the ultra-thin self-winding model (Calibre 167(, measuring 1.73 mm thick and 23.33 mm in diameter.
1992: Creation of the Retrograde Jumping Hours with small seconds at 6 o’clock (calibre 127).
1993: The first Perpetual Calendar, developed in cooperation with Philippe Dufour (Calibre 117).
1995: Daniel Roth introduces the Minute Repeater with Perpetual Calendar and Moon Phases (Calibre 189), the first striking model.
1996: Six years after the launch of its first chronograph, Daniel Roth presents its Self-winding Chronograph (Calibre 247), on a Zenith El Primero 400 column-wheel movement beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour. The chronograph is accurate to within 1/10th of a second.
1998: Launch of an exceptional timepiece: the ultra-thin Minute Repeater (Calibre 307), a mere 7.35 mm thick. Development and launch of a world first: the Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar in a skeletonised version, enabling one to admire the change of all functions at midnight (Calibre 117.1).
1999: On the occasion of the brand’s 10th anniversary, creation of an innovative moment, the Papillon (Calibre 317), with jumping hours, retractable minute hands and central small seconds. Offering an original alternative to the retrograde function, the retractable hands are duly patented.
2000: Development and launch of the Metropolitan (Calibre 857), which provides simplified reading of time zones. This model is also patented.
2002: Creation of the world’s first Tourbillon with 8-day power reserve (Calibre 197). With its twin-faced movement endowed with a 200-hour power reserve and its pivoting case, this model soon came to symbolise the brand.
2003: Loyal to the complication on which it has built its reputation, the brand introduces a Tourbillon, this time equipped with a Retrograde Date (Calibre 196):
2004: 15th anniversary of the brand foundation. Daniel Roth presents on this occasion the first Grande Sonnerie Self-winding Tourbillon watch with 4 hammers and Westminster Chime. Entirely developed in the workshops of the Manufacture, this masterpiece of Haute Horlogerie is still acknowledged as the world’s most complicated movement.
2005: Launch of the Ellipsocurvex Minute Repeater, entirely developed, built and assembled in the Manufacture, and the Ellipsocurvex Papillon, a new interpretation of the emblematic Papillon.
2006: Athys I emerges from the workshops. It heralds a line symbolising the essence of the Daniel Roth spirit: the case shape, Roman lines, precious materials three-arm seconds hand and finely finished movement decoration. The Metropolitan is enriched with a new variation – the Dual Time – and a new 8 Day Tourbillon model is presented.
2007: Daniel Roth launches the Tourbillon Lumière, the unique openworked model featuring an “all-gold” movement specially developed to ensure a maximum of transparency and lightness. Presentation of a new Grande Sonnerie Moon Phases model, featuring a self-winding tourbillon movement with Grande and Petite Sonnerie with four hammers and Westmisnter chime – a watchmaking masterpiece entirely developed in-house. At the end of the year, a spacious and luminous new building is added to the existing one.
2008: Launch of the Papillon Chronograph. A worthy heir to the Papillon, launched in 1999 to celebrate the brand’s 10th anniversary and reinterpreted in 2005, it is equipped with a unique patented pivoting double minute-hand system. This new chronograph model wins the “Watch of the Year” prize in 2009 prize in the “Upcoming brand” category at the 2nd edition of the Salon International de Haute Horlogerie, in Mexico.
“Il Giocatore Veneziano” is a unique minute repeater automaton wristwatch with hour and minute indications. The hand-painted automaton dice player dial, with double dice, has seven different cycles of 72 combinations resulting in a difficult-to-guess 504 possible falls of the dice. Unique of its kind, the dice player automaton movement is separate from the minute repeater mechanism, so the “Il Giocatore Veneziano” automaton can operate either in tandem to the striking of the minute repeater or separately. The minute repeater mechanism strikes the hours, quarters and minutes to a “Cathedral” resonance.
A first in every sense of the word and taking three years to develop – the entirely handmade Daniel Roth “Il Giocatore Veneziano” dice-playing automaton wristwatch with minute repeater is totally unique.
In the tradition of the early watchmakers and following the style of the exceptional 17th century automaton pocket watches, which depicted scenes from mythology and daily life, Daniel Roth – the specialists in grand complications – decided to develop a unique wristwatch based on the original 17th century automaton concept and in the tradition of Daniel Roth’s watchmaking ancestors –bringing it totally up-to-date with this first-ever true automaton wristwatch.
Inspired by an earlier meeting between Gerald Roden, CEO of Daniel Roth, and the world famous automaton specialist François Junod, the master watchmakers at Daniel Roth visualized an automaton wristwatch which – unlike other so-called “automaton” wristwatches where the movement of the automaton relies totally on the action of the watch mechanism – would be a true automaton with a movement separate from its minute repeater mechanism – making the Daniel Roth “Il Giocatore Veneziano” totally unique.
From its separate mechanical gaming automaton movement – built in the traditional style to guarantee reliability – to its minute repeater mechanism, striking the hours, quarters and minutes – reminding us of the days when, as today, it was essential to “hear” the time – this is a truly traditional, one of a kind timepiece with all the advantages of a thoroughly modern wristwatch.
Entirely handmade in the historical watchmaking centre of the Jura region of Switzerland, this masterpiece complication wristwatch is constructed from 501 parts and incorporates many unique elements.
Automata are complex mechanical devices (generally depicting a moving person or an animal) that are known to have existed as far back in time as the Ming Dynasty. Automaton timepieces came into their own during the late 17th and early 18th centuries, with the period 1860 to 1910 being known as “The Golden Age of Automata”. During this period many small family companies of automata makers thrived in Paris and the Jura region of Switzerland. From their workshops they exported their carefully crafted clockwork automata around the world.
Inspired by the 16th century Italian painter Caravaggio’s work of genius “The Card Players” (also called “The Cardsharps”), the entirely handmade “Il Giocatore Veneziano” embodies the same genius of construction, richness of chiaroscurist colour and sense of chance. Under the direction of its unique, traditionally constructed and totally separate gaming movement, the richly dressed automaton dice player silently and smoothly moves the two goblets held in his hands, juggling the individual dice beneath them.
Once the automaton is activated the seven-point animation of “Il Giocatore Veneziano” – including flickering candle – begins and lasts for around 8 seconds at the end of the animation. By pressing a simple push-piece you can lift the dice player’s arms to see again if you guessed the fall of the dice correctly. If you decide to chance your luck against the dice player, you should be aware that there are seven different possible cycles, each with 72 combinations – resulting in a mind-boggling 504 possible results!
THE WATCH MOVEMENT
The entirely mechanical hand-wound Daniel Roth Calibre 7300 movement weighs 30g. A complex minute repeater mechanism, it strikes the hours, quarters and minutes on demand via the sliding mechanism on the outer case. With its two cathedral gongs it strikes the hours with a low note, the quarters with both a high and a low note and the minutes with a high note. The round multi-shell minute repeater sound box has been carefully hollowed to enhance a rich striking cathedral resonance as it makes its one-and-a-half turns.
Overcoming the hazards and complexities of separating the movement of the automaton from the minute repeating mechanism was a genuine challenge for the master watchmakers at Daniel Roth and the resulting system is absolutely one-of-a-kind.
In the spirit of the painter Caravaggio, the gold dial of each “Il Giocatore Veneziano” is individually hand painted, dried then kiln-baked. The unique dial depicts a dice player, typical of those found in the affluent bars of 16th century Venice, as he sits at rest or juggles with the every-changing dice – either in tandem to the striking of the minute repeater or separately.
With Daniel Roth’s typical eye for detail, the dial is carefully composed of several superimposed domed layers – giving a three-dimensional effect. The Daniel Roth logo, Roman numerals, indexes, candle, moneybag, face and aluminium moving hands and arms are all richly hand-painted and the coins are in applied gold. The hour and minute hands are in flamed-blued steel.
An impactful piece (46mm x 43mm x 14.10mm), the case of “Il Giocatore Veneziano” is carved from a single block of either white gold or 5N18 red gold. It has the classic double ellipse Daniel Roth polished gold case form with individually soldiered lugs, automaton push-piece controls and minute repeater striking mechanism slide and a sapphire crystal case back.
To better appreciate the exquisitely hand-painted “Il Giocatore Veneziano”, the sapphire crystal on the front face is anti-glare treated on both the inside and outside surfaces of the sapphire – allowing for a totally clear view of “Il Giocatore Veneziano” – in fact such a clear view that you have the feeling that you could touch him.
The underside face – displaying the Calibre 7300 movement – is protected by a sapphire crystal which has also been anti-glare treated on the inside surface only, so as not to react to any grease or perspiration from the skin of the wearer. ENTIRELY HAND-FINISHED
“Il Giocatore Veneziano’s” Calibre DR 7300 movement is entirely hand-finished using traditional craft techniques. It is hand-decorated throughout; rigorously Côtes de Genève finished and carries an exceptional 49 jewels. Along with its traditional hand-bevelled edges – an almost lost art which few watch companies are capable of today – its finishing confirms this piece as the product of true master craftsmen working to the highest standards of traditional watchmaking.
“Il Giocatore Veneziano” is produced in 30 unique pieces – each Giocatore is different, individually notated and sports the Daniel Roth logo – along with the same chance to try your luck as you juggle the dice and see if you can win against the genius of the dice player!
Daniel Roth “Il Giocatore Veneziano” is an entirely handmade and hand painted automaton, depicting a richly robed 16th century Venetian dice player. Half standing, half sitting on a stool, he leans across a carpet-covered table as he juggles the dice in two handheld leather goblets. Set in the plinth of the table is a unique clock, which sounds the hours and triggers a command to set the automaton in motion.
The dice player turns his body, hands, and head, and blinks his eyes as he periodically lifts his arms to reveal, beneath the goblets, the black and white dice as they turn and fall independently – achieving an infinite number of possible results.
Of all the exceptional pieces created by Daniel Roth, the totally handmade, one-of a-kind “Il Giocatore Veneziano” automaton is among the most audacious. While automata of the 1880s to 1920s were typically powered by a spring motor and many incorporated a cylinder music box or small mechanical organ, in visualizing “Il Giocatore Veneziano” Gerald Roden, CEO of Daniel Roth, had a more challenging concept in mind.
His concept was to create a totally original automaton in conjunction with the world famous automaton specialist, François Junod. Inspired by the Italian painter Caravaggio’s work of genius “The Card Players”, what Gerald Roden visualized was an automaton in the form of a 16th century Venetian dice player juggling his dice and lifting his arms to enable the viewer to see the ever changing dice beneath. Sounds simple – well not quite, there was a catch – he wanted the dice to be able to fall independently in an infinite number of variations. Leaving the viewer’s chance of guessing the correct fall of the dice to genuine luck – a real gamble – much as the game would have been played in the affluent bars of 16th century Venice and in today’s gaming rooms of Las Vegas.
The result – an exquisite handmade automaton made up of more than 1,500 parts, depicting a richly clothed 16th century Venetian dice. Half standing, half sitting on a stool, he leans across a carpet-covered table deep in thought as he juggles the dice in his two handheld leather goblets. His hand painted face has a look of deep concentration as he turns his body, hands, head, blinks his eyes and lifts his arms at intervals to reveal the lucky black and white dice beneath the goblets as they fall non-sequentially – achieving an infinite number of possible results.
The secret to the limitless possibilities of the fall of the automaton dice is that below “Il Giocatore Veneziano’s” carpet covered table is a turning plate on which randomly spinning dice disks are attached, ensuring that each time the dice player reveals his dice the combination is never repeated. Set in the plinth of the automaton is a unique Daniel Roth clock with dial indicating the hours and minutes that has been specially developed for “Il Giocatore Veneziano”.
Its manually wound mechanical movement has a striking mechanism that strikes on the hour. This triggers a command that sets “Il Giocatore Veneziano” in motion (alternatively, there is a push-piece to activate “Il Giocatore Veneziano” on demand). The clock’s movement has an 8-day power reserve.
The moving body, hands, head and the blinking of the eyes are controlled by a specially created François Junod miniature nine-cam mechanism, which contains more than 80 ball bearings.“Il Giocatore Veneziano’s” rich silk robes and accessories have been carefully researched by Daniel Roth and the 16th century Venetian detailing recreated by a specialist couturier of miniature clothing. Taking many years to research and develop – the Daniel Roth “Il Giocatore Veneziano” is a unique, one-of-a-kind automaton. Entirely handmade, it embodies the remarkable genius of Daniel Roth. Technical details Automaton
Total height: 550 mm approx.
Base: width: 260 mm, depth: 380 mm, height: 90 mm
Automaton movement: The action of the automaton is controlled by a specially created, totally independent François Junod miniature nine-cam mechanism. The automaton can function six times without need to rewind and incorporates an indicator showing the number of times it has been activated. The automaton movement has three push-pieces: one is a clutch release to activate the automaton, the second a manual release, and the third lifts the arms so that you can see the dice. The mechanism contains more than 80 ball bearings
Set in the plinth of the automaton is a unique Daniel Roth clock, which sounds the hours and triggers a command to set the automaton in motion.
A manual mechanical clock movement with 8-day power reserve. The striking mechanism sounds the hours and on the hour triggers a command to set the automaton in motion. The functioning parts of the movement are Daniel Roth gilded, and Côte de Genève and circular grained finished. A push-piece can be used to activate the automaton.
This Instant Perpetual Calendar in Platinum was introduced in 2006 by master watch maker Daniel Roth. This remarkable timepiece, a precious re-edition of the Daniel Roth Instant Perpetual Calendar model presented in 2003, reveals the intricacies of the brand’s considerable know-how. Thanks to technical developments, the calendar functions are user-friendly, accurate and highly legible.
Equipped with Calibre DR 114, a 27 jewels self winding movement, this high complication wrist watch indicates day, month, date, leap years functions (Day display at 9 o’clock, month at 3 o’clock, date and leap year at 6 o’clock). The particularly attractive skeleton dial, with its elegant and beautifully arranged counters, testifies the aesthetic refinement inherent to Daniel Roth watches. The movement features Guilloché gold and platinum oscillating weight, Hand bevelling and Côtes de Genève motif.
Self-winding, Instant Perpetual Calendar, Calibre DR 114, 27 jewels
28,800 vph, 45-hour power reserve
Guilloché gold and platinum oscillating weight
Hand bevelling, Côtes de Genève motif
Hours, minutes, day, month, date, leap years
Bezel set with 168 TW VS to VVS diamonds (0.84 ct)
Sapphire crystal, glare-proofed both sides
Glare-proofed sapphire back
750 (18K) skeleton galvanic-treated two-tone dial (bluish and silvered)
Day display at 9 o’clock, month at 3 o’clock, date and leap year at 6 o’clock
Blued steel hands
Black, cognac or blue hand-sewn alligator leather, pin buckle
750 (18K) pink or white case
Non gem-set versions
The quest for the expression of true time has always fired the imagination of master watchmakers, while the combination of horological complications competes with the most advanced technologies. With this fascinating new model, the Masters Grandes Complications collections offers an open window on spheres of celestial accuracy.
Whereas mathematicians and astronomers have striven from ancient times to the present day to determine the equation of time with amazing accuracy by means of ultra-complex calculations, devotees of Daniel Roth wristwatches can now evaluate the difference between mean solar time and true solar time whenever they wish at a mere glance.
First presented in 2004, made entirely in-house and based on a self-winding movement, this model has been entirely updated in 2007 to reflect the classic and contemporary lines of the Daniel Roth collections. This model features a perpetual calendar with the moon phase at 6 o’clock. There are two opposite indicators: between 10 and 11 o’clock, an indicator showing the difference between actual time and the time calculated by means of the time equation; and between 1 and 2 o’clock, an indicator of the number of days of the month in progress, based on an operating system patented by Daniel Roth. Introduced in 2007, the Perpetual Calendar Equation of Time offers five complications enriching the same movement and naturally finds its place in the Daniel Roth prestige collection of Masters Grandes Complications. The offset hour and minute indication is accompanied by a perpetual calendar and displays of the leap years, the moon phases, the equation of time and number of days of the month. All these complications are driven by a self-winding movement with a 44-hour power reserve.
In 2004, when this model was first presented, the Daniel Roth master-watchmakers already proved that they were undaunted by any technical challenge or combination of complications. In 2007, this Haute Horlogerie timepiece once again projects an image that is at once classical and contemporary, entirely in harmony with the new Daniel Roth aesthetics imbued with technical complexity and sophisticated elegance.
The 18-carat gold dial base with its spiral guilloché motif features three overlapping brush-finished counters, also in 18-carat gold; a minute circle with snailed finish; as well as a partial hour indication on a white mother-of-pearl plate showing the elongated Roman hour numerals between 10 and 2 o’clock. The first segment, located between 10 and 11 o’clock, shows the owner of this watch the difference between mean solar time and true solar time.
This complex mechanism calculates and represents solar time throughout the year, with a difference that reaches its extremes on February 11th (approximately +14 minutes) and November 4th (approximately -16 minutes). Another segment between 1 and 2 o’clock indicates the number of days of the month. The brand has filed a technical patent for this distinctive and highly legible indication.
The perpetual calendar itself is composed of a day of the week aperture at 9 o’clock, a month aperture at 3 o’clock and a leap-year and date display on a double counter at 6 o’clock. The 18-carat dial features open worked central parts providing a see-through vision of the movement, highlighted by the day of the week and month discs. Crafted in translucent sapphire crystal, the latter accentuate the technical effect of the model while maintaining optimal visibility of the movement.
Finally, a realistic representation of the moon phases, appearing in a window at 12 o’clock, sets the finishing touch to this precision instrument framed by a precious curvex shaped double-ellipse case in white gold, pink gold or platinum and fitted with a sapphire crystal case-back.Like the greatest watchmakers, Haute Horlogerie at Daniel Roth transforms a functional object into an objet d’art that measures time and reveals it in its finest attire.
Stemming from the Masters Grandes Complication collection, the Perpetual Calendar Equation of Time is based on a self-winding Manufacture-made movement entirely decorated with high-end finishing including Côtes de Genève and featuring the following complications: Perpetual Calendar, Moon Phases, Leap-year indication, Equation of Time, and the Day of the month number.
This movement is housed within a signature double-ellipse Daniel Roth case in 18-carat white gold measuring 44 x 41 mm, fitted with a sapphire crystal glareproofed on its upper face and an open back glareproofed on its lower face, along with date correctors at 2, 4, 8 and 10 o’clock. The multi-layer dial in 18-carat gold and mother-of-pearl features several dedicated apertures, while translucent sapphire crystal day of the week and month discs provide a see-through view of the movement. The hand-sewn black alligator leather strap is fastened by a white gold folding clasp bearing the brand logo. Water-resistant to 3 ATM.
Technical details Movement
Calibre number: DR 114
Power Reserve: 44 hours
Functions: Perpetual calendar, time equation and indicator of end of month
Height: 2.98 mm
Mechanism : 3.00
Diameter: 26.50 x 29.50
Rotor: Solid 18K gold and platinum rotor, in a guilloché pattern
Balance: 3-arms Cuproberyllium ring
Jewelling: 27 jewels.
Special finishing on movement: Hand-bevelled, Côtes de Genève finishing
Exclusive and patented Daniel Roth movement
White, pink gold 4N18 or platinum, open back with sapphire crystal
Distance between lugs: 21.00mm.
Solid 18K gold, in a guilloché pattern and MOP
Bezel 2 rows 158 diamonds – 1.42K TW VS to VVS
This Haute Horlogerie masterpiece first presented in 2002 was treated in 2006 to new dials as well as a broader tourbillon cage and bridge in keeping with the original Daniel Roth lines.
This new version offers collectors a chance to acquire a tourbillon endowed with an exceptional 200-hour power reserve proudly displayed through a dedicated aperture and date indication, both of which are visible on the under side of the movement when the case is flipped over. Ever more in tune with purists and connoisseurs of exceptional timepieces, the movement with its highend finish is visible through an openworked dial on the back, protected by the flip-over case-back.
The Daniel Roth 8-day Tourbillon is also presented in two precious versions calling for highly specialised expertise. Firstly, an edition on which the bezel, lugs, tourbillon bridge and buckle are entirely set with baguette-cut precious stones. The other is a set of one-of-a-kind erotic models adorned with doubleface enamelled decorative motifs inserted in the back of each case.
Exclusive Daniel Roth model, hand-wound tourbillon movement entirely decorated by hand, three-arm small seconds hand on the tourbillon arbor. Exceptional 200-hour (8 days) power reserve with indicator aperture and date hand. Rose gold case (41 x 38 mm) flips over at 12 o’clock, double-face. Guilloché 18K gold and enamel dials circled with a rose gold ring. Cognac-coloured hand-stitched alligator leather strap with rose gold buckle. Water-resistant to 3 atm.
Also available with bezel set with 2 rows of 159 diamonds (1.27 cts.). This model is available in a choice of versions: White gold case with guilloché 18K gold and black enamel dials circled with a white gold ring, bezel set with 2 rows of 159 diamonds (1.27 cts.) or non gem-set, black hand-stitched alligator leather strap with white gold buckle. Platinum case with guilloché 18K gold and enamel dials circled with a galvanic blue gold ring, bezel set with 2 rows of 159 diamonds (1.27 cts.) or non gem-set, midnight blue hand-stitched alligator leather strap with platinum buckle.
TOURBILLON 8-DAY POWER RESERVE, JEWELLERY(197.X.60.161.CN.BA.S14)
Exclusive Daniel Roth model, hand-wound tourbillon movement entirely decorated by hand, three-arm small seconds hand on the tourbillon arbor. Exceptional 200-hour (8 days) power reserve with indicator aperture and date hand. White gold case (41 x 38 mm) that flips over at 12 o’clock to reveal its double face. Case, crown and buckle set with 100 baguette-cut diamonds (10.00 cts.).
Guilloché silver-plated 18K gold dials, numbered on the top face. Tourbillon bridge set with baguette-cut pink sapphires. Black hand-stitched alligator strap with white gold buckle. Water resistant to 3 atm. On request, this model can be set with various gems in a choice of versions and the case-back can be customised.
Launched in Basel-world 2007, the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Lumiere in red gold (Ref: 200.Y) houses a meticulously crafted manual winding skeleton movement featuring high horology finishing and decorations.
This Daniel Roth watch features two-part double elliptical case, open-worked dial with engraved indexes and blued steel serpentine shaped hands.
Presented in a limited edition of 50 pieces, every Daniel Roth Tourbillon Lumiere red gold watch is delivered with an individual Functional Testing Certificate.
Daniel Roth movement ref. M054 – DR 780
Shock absorbers: 2 x Incabloc
Weight: 18.9 g
Number of parts: 200 parts
Frequency (Hertz – Vibrations per hour): 3 Hz – 21’600 A/h
Power reserve: 64 hours
Jewelling: 22 jewels
Height & diameter of the movement: 3.48 mm, 31.00 x 34.00 mm
Indication & Functions
Skeleton movement, complete decoration, gold bridges & plates, wheels treated red gold 5N, drawing out of the flanks, hand-chamfering, hand-engraving
Balance: With screws
Balance wheel: Flat
Escapement: In line lever Tourbillon
Number of parts of the tourbillon: 82 parts
Finishing of the tourbillon cage: High end finishing
Tourbillon Bridge: Steel, black polished, hand-chamfered
Material: Red gold 5N
Shape & construction: Double elliptical case, in two parts
Case height x width x thickness: 44.00 x 41.00 x 10.05 mm
Distance between lugs: 21 mm
Case back: Open back held by 6 pentagonal screws
New Daniel Roth crown, not screwed, diameter 6.0 mm
Sapphire glass: Upper: double face anti-reflection treatment/ Lower: internal anti-reflection treatment
Finishings: Entirely polished
Water-resistance: 3 Atm
18 ct gold
Open on the movement, circular satin-finish with engraved indexes and logo
Hands: High temperature blued steel (1300°C), serpentine shaped hands
Brown hand-sewn double-face alligator strap
Red gold 5N, folding clasp, polished finish
Initially launched in 2006, Athys II timepiece is a classic beauty with pure lines embodying a wealth of horological tradition, inspired by the pocket-watches of yesteryear. Its ultra-thin Frédéric Piguet Calibre 151 on a Lépine type “hour-minute seconds” base has been specially adapted to the wristwatch format.
Surprising by its exceptional size and superbly harmonious thanks to the arrangement of its bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève, this entirely hand-decorated manual winding movement can be admired through the broad transparent opening on the back of its double ellipse case. The small seconds at 9 o’clock, positioned directly in line with the crown, are displayed using the brand’s distinctive three-arm hand. In 2008, the Athys II, returned with a black dial. Launch in 2006 the Athys II entirely lives up to the values cultivated by the craftsmen that conceived it. Through a sparing, understated and refined presentation ensuring optimal legibility, it focuses on the essentials of time measurement and those of the brand itself, offering those with a taste for fine watchmaking a promising gateway into the horological wonderland of Daniel Roth.
In harmony with the Manufacture-made spirit of the brand, this signature model is equipped with a traditionally built mechanical ultra-thin Frédéric Piguet movement, originally conceived for 1950s pocket-watches. Recognised as the ultimate 16-lignes manual-winding movement, it has been specially adapted for Daniel Roth to the requirements of a wristwatch by moving the attachment point on the index of the balance-spring and the mobile stud-holder.
Demonstrating the brand’s consistent concern with precision, the modified Calibre DR 206 is adjusted in 5 positions rather than the usual 2 applied to pocket-watches. The small seconds at 9 o’clock is actually part of the main gear train and is therefore, not subject to the play of the gears, as it might be the case with an indirect small seconds. Adjusting the movement to this model also involved creating a special open area inside the case middle at 9 o’clock in order to leave space for the larger seconds hand, offering a majestic stature to the seconds display. The two-arm balance oscillates at a cadence of 21,600 vibrations per hour and the mainspring placed in the barrel ensures a power reserve of 43 hours. The power of details
Crafted in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland, a haven of complicated horology, the high-end finishing of the rhodium-plated 20-jewel movement is eminently worthy of the time-honoured tradition of excellence perpetuated by artisans in the region. The bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève, with concave chamfering and 2N gilt engraving on the barrel-bridge, while the mainplate is circular-grained.
The hand-chamfered screws feature countersunk polished and bevelled slots, while the surfaces are satin-brushed and drawn out with a file. These few examples provide a fascinating insight into the spirit and dedication to detail of the craftsmen who are determined to ensure that a movement is perfect from all angles, including those that are invisible to the naked eye. A superlative stage-setting
Setting the stage for such a paragon of horological perfection, the characteristic Daniel Roth double-ellipse 41 x 43 mm case is superbly crafted in accordance with the finest horological traditions. The case-middle and back are carved from a single block of material and meticulously polished, while the lugs are hand-soldered to the middle, thus preserving the purity of the ridges and projecting angles.
Its transparent sapphire crystal back, secured by six pentagonal screws, enables one to admire the intricacies of its inner workings. This magnificently unobstructed horological vision, a rarity on watches in this category, is particularly inspiring thanks to the exceptional size and classical beauty of the movement occupying the entire space available and thus completely in tune with the current trend towards large watches.
Clarity and purity
The pure black-lacquered dial is extremely readable thanks to the large Roman numeral hours and the minute circle with its Arabic numerals. The seconds indication features a sunray motif radiating from the axis of the three-arm hand right through to the graduated segments. Within this distinctive and visually appealing mode of display, each of the arms is a different length and moves steadily and clearly over one of the three superimposed 120° segments, graduated from 0 to 20, from 20 to 40 and from 40 to 60.
Athys II thus admirably embodies the major Daniel Roth signature features: double-ellipse case, flame-blued steel arrow-type hands, Roman hour numerals, a fascinatingly original and eminently legible dial, impeccable finishing, exquisite movement decoration. Moreover, the distinctive Daniel Roth crown which appeared for the first time last year with seven flutings, either convex or recessed, imparts a characteristic touch to this timepiece. Such an inspiring introduction to the world of Daniel Roth will undoubtedly lead enthusiasts to seek a closer acquaintance with a brand so unmistakably dedicated to horological perfection.
Athys II in a nutshell
Exclusive Daniel Roth model equipped with the unique manual-winding Calibre DR 206 beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, based on a Lépine type pocket-watch movement modified for a wristwatch and impeccably finished with hand bevelling and Côtes de Genève. Central hour and minute hands, Roman hour numerals, railtrack minute circle with Arabic numerals and signature three-arm seconds hand at 9 o’clock. 43-hour power reserve. Double-ellipse case in 18-carat red or white gold with transparent sapphire crystal back. black-lacquered dial. Alligator leather strap with classic gold pin buckle. Water-resistant to 3 atm.
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