D. Dornblüth & Sohn 99.1M Gruene – About Timepieces Exclusive Release

Based on Dornblüth’s Caliber 99.1 Medium, this edition from the famed German watch brand is presented in an exclusive colour and materials configuration, providing a very exclusive piece, of which only 5 will be made; all of which are exclusively available through About Timepieces.

The case is 40mm and mainly in brushed stainless steel; it also has some polished edges which provides contrast of light reflection between the angled surfaces.

D. Dornblüth & Sohn 99.1M Gruene – About Timepieces Exclusive Release
Photo credit @ Danny Rab

The dial is very simple, but stunning – Under the sapphire crystal, sits a semi-translucent green ceramic dial, which has a light circular grain to it, delivering a radiant sunburst effect under certain lights, due to the brass movement shining through. The dial also appears to have a darker green flat matt finish in other lighting conditions.

An engraved and white filled chemin de fer circles the dial, the 5-minute markers being larger than the other minutes. There are 11 oversized polished steel applied numerals (for hours) sitting on the dial, the only one missing being 6, which makes room for the recessed subsidiary small seconds dial.

D. Dornblüth & Sohn 99.1M Gruene – About Timepieces Exclusive Release
Photo credit @ Danny Rab

The sub dial also has a similar chemin de fer right to the edge of its perimeter, this time with each 10 seconds is a white numeral up to 60, the alternating 5 second marker is an elongated line from the outer marker making seconds easy to read should you need to be precise. The sub dial has a diagonal grain on it, catching the light in contrast to the main dial’s circular grain.

Look closely, and just above the sub-dial you will see a subtle non-filled engraving of “Limited Edition” followed by the number of the piece. Classic, polished steel hands indicate hours and minutes, with the amazingly thin small seconds hand being in the same finish.

D. Dornblüth & Sohn 99.1M Gruene – About Timepieces Exclusive Release
Photo credit @ Danny Rab

Turn the piece over and you will immediately see the passion that has gone into creating the movement. The three quarter plate has been rhodinized and has a grained finish, with yellow gold hand engravings of the manufacturer’s name, company serial number and the Limited Edition number of the piece. The crown wheels have a double sunburst finish on them and as well as the heat blued screws, you will also notice the intricate engraving on the balance cock.

A green ostrich leather strap, which matches the dial tones perfectly, is fastened with a stainless steel pin buckle. The manufacture waiting time for a D. Dornblüth piece is currently 8 -12 months, however the remaining few pieces are available for delivery within a few weeks.

The D. Dornblüth & Sohn 99.1M Gruene limited edition watch retails at £6,050.

Technical details

Model: D. Dornblüth & Sohn 99.1M Gruene

Case
Polished/burnished, with double screw union
Diameter 40 mm
Height 10 mm
1.6 mm sapphire crystal on top, slightly domed and antireflective on the inside
Screwed sapphire crystal base
Oversized crown with embossed manufacturer name solid nickel-free stainless steel, polished/burnished

Movement
Diameter 37 mm x height 4.4 mm
20 rubies
Hand wound
Oversized eccentric second display, indirectly driven below the gear train by means of an intermediate gear, with friction spring and cantilevered second pinion
Rhodinized three-quarter plate with yellow gold hand-graving of manufacturer name and serial number
Grained finish, with double sunburst finish on the crown wheels
18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve: 50 hours (+/-5%)

Dial
Green ceramic dial
“Limited Edition“engraving with serial number on dial
Polished steel appliques
Note: Due to the manufacturing technique the shade of green can slightly vary

Strap
Green Ostrich Leather with beige leather lining
Stainless pin buckle

Price
£6,050 (plus UK VAT if applicable)

D. Dornblüth & Sohn

Based in Kalbe/Milde, Dornblüth & Sohn is an independent & traditional German watch company co-founded by master watchmaker Dieter Dornblüth & his son Dirk Dornblüth.

Origins of the brand dates back to 1959, when the watchmaker Dieter Dornblüth from the village of Salzwedel, Saxony-Anhalt, designed his first own movement. For three years he went to the Erzgebirge to expand his horological knowledge. He had been occupied by an almost lost case for some time: a sterling silver pocket watch with an extra large eccentric second display and a sturdy movement of high quality. During his long repair job, Dornblüth became so fond of this pocket watch that he was rather sad when its owner came to pick it up on that particular November day.

Inspired from this pocket watch movement, Dornblüth soon started designing a sturdy wristwatch movement. He had just finished his plans and the first wheels sat in place on the plate already, when he was called to Kalbe, Saxony-Anhalt, to take over the abandoned watchmaking business of Elsa and Paul Beckmann. Developing his own movement could not realized due to his busy work schedule as a watch repairer.

On 1st October 1999, when Dieter Dornblüth celebrated his 60th birthday, Dieter’s son, Dirk Dornblüth, already master watchmaker himself, presented a stainless steel wristwatch that he had created all by himself, with its movement based on the legendary Glashütte caliber 60.3. Impressed by this, Dieter Dornblüth, disclosed his son regarding his long forgotten plans of an own movement which he had kept to himself for the last 40 years. Soon, father and son started to sketch out the design of a possible base caliber. This way, the father’s vision from 1959 was brought back to life again.

When both watchmakers planned the design of the sturdy caliber, their eyes were caught by an empty space opposite the small second near numeral „9”. What could be done to balance out this one-sided dial and give the face of the watch a somewhat more harmonic look? While leafing through old auction catalogs, the young master got the idea to integrate a power reserve display near numeral „3”. Moreover the watchmakers wanted to avoid the distorted indication of the winding state, which was prevailing in the common power reserve indicators, due to their planetary differential with too many wheels.

But how could this indication be integrated into the almost finished movement all by keeping its external dimensions? The Father Dornblüth found the solution for this issue when, waiting for his car to be repaired, he looked at the small engine models in a showcase of the local garage.

Since his reflections were especially stimulated by the model of a differential gear from a car’s rear axle, he asked the owner of the garage if he could borrow it for some days. Back home, he and his son puzzled over the question how this bevel gear differential could serve as a model for the construction of the power reserve indicator.

The result was a three-wheel mechanism no higher than 2.98 mm, which could then be used for the power reserve indicator, also called »Up-and-Down« display. The meshing of only a few wheels leads to a very reduced mechanical friction and thus allows an extremely precise indication of the mainspring’s actual winding state. The Caliber 99.2 was born.

With the Dornblüth calibers, father and son prove that own ideas in the art of watchmaking do not necessarily need sophisticated CNC technique, but that even today passionate and dedicated watchmakers can create own handcrafted precision watches using only traditional tools and machines. However, this requires a limitation in quantity: the monthly output of the Dornblüth manufacture does not exceed more than a few pieces per month.

Contact details

D.Dornblüth & Sohn
Westpromenade 7
39624 Kalbe/Milde
Official website: www.dornblueth.com

D.Dornblüth & Sohn Caliber 99.2 Collection

The Caliber 99.2 is the first movement that was developed in the Dornblüth manufactory. With its three-wheel bevel gear mechanism and its subsidiary second driven indirectly below the train, it forms the basis of all Dornblüth Ref 99.2 watches.

This watch model is available in stainless steel or rose gold case. The Sterling silver dial, with grained silky matte or matte black finish, features a power reserve indicator at 3’o clock and an oversized eccentric second display at “9 o´clock”.

Technical details

Movement
Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 4.4 mm
20 rubies
Power reserve indicator by means of the bevel gear differential
Oversized eccentric second display, indirectly driven below the train by means of an intermediate gear, with friction spring and cantilevered second pinion
Power reserve 50 hours (+/- 5%)
18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Rose gold three-quarter plate with yellow gold hand-graving of manufactory name and serial number; Geneva stripe finish; retracing ratchet; double sunburst finish on the crown wheels.

Model Variations

REF. CAL. 99.2 (1) ST
Dial: Sterling silver with the grained, silky matte finished surface of historical deck watches; numerals and indexes numerals with black print; power reserve indicator at “3o´clock”; oversized eccentric second display at “9 o´clock”
Case: Solid nickel-free stainless steel, polished / burnished
Hands: Steel, hand-polished and heat-blued
Strap: Real high-quality alligator leather, hand-stitched

REF. CAL. 99.2 (1) RG
Dial: Sterling silver with the grained, silky matte finished surface of historical deck watches; numerals and indexes numerals with black print; power reserve indicator at “3 o´clock”; oversized eccentric second display at “9 o´clock”
Case: Solid 18kt / 750 – rose gold, polished / burnished
Hands: Steel, hand-polished and heat-blued
Strap: Real high-quality alligator leather, hand-stitched

REF. CAL. 99.2 (2) ST
Dial: Sterling silver, matte black finished; numerals and indexes numerals with white print; hour numerals coated with fluorescent SUPER Luminova; power reserve indicator at “3 o´clock”; oversized eccentric second display at “9 o´clock”
Case: Solid nickel-free stainless steel, polished / burnished
Hands: White, hour and minute hands coated with the fluorescent SUPER Luminova material
Strap: Real high-quality alligator leather, hand-stitched

REF. CAL. 99.2 (2) RG
Dial: Sterling silver, matte black finished; numerals and indexes numerals with white print; hour numerals coated with fluorescent SUPER Luminova; power reserve indicator at “3 o´clock”; oversized eccentric second display at “9 o´clock”
Case: Solid 18kt / 750 – rose gold, polished / burnished
Hands: White, hour and minute hands coated with the fluorescent SUPER Luminova material
Strap: Real high-quality alligator leather, hand-stitched.

D.Dornblüth & Sohn Caliber 99.0 Collection

Manufactured by German watch brand D.Dornblüth & Sohn, the caliber 99.0 is the variant on the movements of the 99-family, reduced to its essentials. As to craftsmanship, the same quality standards were kept for the three hands movement with the small off-center second display as for the original Dornblüth movement, its big brother caliber 99.2.

The watch case measures 42mm diameter and 11.5mm thickness. This watch model is available in polished/burnished stainless steel or 18 carat rose gold versions featuring Sterling silver dial in grained silky matte or matte black finishing. It features a small seconds counter at “6 o´clock”.

Technical details

Movement
Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 4.4 mm
18 rubies
Power reserve 50 hours (+/-5%)
18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Rosé gold plated three-quarter plate with yellow gold hand-graving of manufactory name and serial number
Geneva stripe finish
Retracing ratchet
Double sunburst finish on the crown wheels

Model Variations

Ref 99.0 (1) ST
Dial: Sterling silver with the grained, silky matte finished surface of historical deck watches; numerals and indexes numerals with black print; small eccentric second display at “6 o´clock”
Case: Solid nickel-free stainless steel, polished / burnished
Hands: Steel, hand-polished and heat-blued
Strap: Real high-quality alligator leather, hand-stitched

Ref 99.0 (1) RG
Case: Solid 18kt / 750 – rose gold, polished / burnished
Dial: Sterling silver with the grained, silky matte finished surface of historical deck watches; numerals and indexes numerals with black print; small eccentric second display at “6 o´clock”
Hands: Steel, hand-polished and heat-blued
Strap: Real high-quality alligator leather, hand-stitched

Ref 99.0 (2) ST
Case: Solid nickel-free stainless steel, polished / burnished
Dial: Sterling silver, matte black finished; numerals and indexes numerals with white print; hour numerals coated with fluorescent SUPER Luminova; small eccentric second display at “6 o´clock”
Hands: White, hour and minute hands coated with the fluorescent SUPER Luminova material
Strap: Real high-quality alligator leather, hand-stitched

Ref 99.0 (2) RG
Case: Solid 18kt / 750 – rose gold, polished / burnished
Dial: Sterling silver, matte black finished; numerals and indexes numerals with white print; hour numerals coated with fluorescent SUPER Luminova; small eccentric second display at “6 o´clock”
Hands: White, hour and minute hands coated with the fluorescent SUPER Luminova material
Strap: Real high-quality alligator leather, hand-stitched

D.Dornblüth & Son Regulator

This D.Dornblüth & Son watch takes inspiration from the regulator clocks of bygone era. The watch is available in stainless steel and rose gold editions.

With the REGULATOR watch, the manufacture D.Dornblüth & Son breaks new ground as to the movement and the dial.

Eye-catcher is the dial, which is exceptional for a regulator: simply fragmented with off-centre hour display at 6 o’clock, power reserve at 12 o’clock and central minutes and seconds. The movement continues the well-known Dornblüth tradition. Along with a hack mechanism, the team integrated a separate central second bridge on the ¾ plate.

In order to conceal as little as possible from the ¾ platine finish with its Geneva stripes, gold chatons and yellow-gold manufactory name, two additional pinions and an intermediate wheel transmit the power from the seconds wheel to the seconds pinion. For this movement, 70% of the parts are produced in-house.

The dial is crafted in the Dornblüth manufacture itself by following the 250-year-old technique of filling the gravings and of the subsequent coating in grainy matt silver.

Technical details

Movement
Diameter: 37mm; height: 5,4mm
20 rubies
Central display of minutes and seconds
Central seconds driven by eccentric second wheel
Intermediate wheel and seconds pinion below a separate bridge
Power reserve indicator by means of a specially developed bevel gear differential
Seconds stop
Power reserve 50 hours (± 5%)
18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Red gold plated three-quarter plate with yellow gold plated engraving of manufactory name and Geneva stripe finish
Grained yellow gold seconds pinon bridge with bevelled edges and yellow gold serial number
Retracing ratchet
Double sunburst finish on crown wheels and power reserve wheels
Screws flat polished, heat-blued, with beveled edges
Glucydur screw balance with Nivarox-1-spring
Swan-neck fine adjustment on the hand-engraved balance cock

Case
Polished / burnished, double screw union
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.5 mm
1.6 mm sapphire glass on top, slightly domed and anti-reflected inside
Screwed sapphire glass base
Oversized crown with embossed manufactory name

Dial
Central display of minutes and seconds
Sunken hours display at “6 o’clock”
Power reserve scale at “12 o’clock” sterling silver, matte black finished
Numerals and indexes numerals with white print
White, hour and minute hands coated with the fluorescent SUPER Luminova material

D. Dornblueth & Sohn Sails Set – Special Edition for the old sail training ship of the German Navy, the Gorch Fock I

With a limited special series of watches, the manufacture D. Dornblueth & Sohn is creating wind for the sails of the old sail training ship of the German Navy, the Gorch Fock I.

For this year’s 75th birthday of the Gorch Fock I, Dirk Dornblueth handed over her repaired ship’s chronometer to Mr Wulf Marquard, chairperson of the non-profit organization Tall-Ship Friends, on 27th June at the port of Stralsund. Dirk Dornblueth also presented one of the timepieces of his special edition for the support of the ship’s restoration.

This edition was exclusively designed for the Gorch Fock and unites all the characteristic features of a traditional ship’s chronometer:-

  • Wristwatch mounted on perfectly functioning gimbals
  • Large eccentric seconds display at “6” and power reserve indicator at “12”
  • Engraved matt silver dial with black imprint
  • Square hand collet
  • Milled bezel with concave transition to dial
  • Continuous serial number engraved on movement, case, dial and mahogany box

By means of a specially developed mechanism, on which a patent has already been applied for, the watch can be taken out of the gimbals and be worn on the wrist.

Both the dial and the movement were fashioned in the old watchmaker tradition, the movement including a grainy yellow gold plated three-quarter plate. Apart from all the features typical for a Dornblueth movement, like swan neck fine adjustment, hand engraved balance cock, manufactory name and serial number, the watch also houses a seconds stop device. The durable leather strap is fastened to the case with two screwed pins and was developed according to own designs in cooperation with regional companies.
With the sale of each of the 75 timepieces, the Dornblueth team supports the extensive restorations of the sail training ship and thus participates in realizing the dream of Gorch Fock I sailing on the high seas again.