Christophe Claret AL-ULA

Christophe Claret unveils a timepiece whose symbolic power is highlighted by the ingenious optical phenomenon of the mirascope. At the center of this limited edition conveying a message recalling the history and civilizations of the East which founded the foundations of modern society: AL- ULA, a basin stretching from Jordan to the Arabian desert, sumptuous witness of the Nabatean civilization, the iconic monument symbolizing appears to literally burst out of the dial.

Christophe Claret never ceases to surprise. This true virtuoso of the watchmaking art plays with mechanics, reinvents style codes and creates a fresh and very personal vision of the passing of time. This approach has driven the creation of the Mecca timepiece that uses the optical phenomenon of the mirascope in paying tribute to a civilization and a rich culture more than three thousand years old.

AL-ULA, the capital of the Kingdom of Dedan, is today a site of major cultural significance and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It welcomes Al-Hegra and Mada’in Saleh into its signature. The site has several dozen monuments that have been incredibly preserved from late antiquity.

Christophe Claret AL-ULA

One of these monuments, very famous in its symbolism, is micro engraved and highlighted thanks to the mirascope, a process invented about thirty years ago at the University of California. The mirascope is composed of two identical parabolic mirrors arranged one on top of the other, creating an elliptical shape. The convex mirror on top has a hole in the middle.

When an object is placed in the center of the concave bottom mirror, the reflection from the top mirror creates a hologram of the object, which appears nearly two times larger than it actually is. In implementing this optical effect in the Mecca model, the monument looks as if it is thrusting out of the middle of the watch and offers a 360-degree view of the emblematic memorial which has withstood all phenomena to bear witness to the grandiosity and talent of the past civilization.

AL-ULA, like all Christophe Claret signature timepieces, epitomizes the highest standards of fine watchmaking embodied by the brand. Developing the technically demanding mirascope to function perfectly took extreme dedication and focus. Two months of research and several prototypes were integral to obtaining the desired optical effect. The next critical step was designing and crafting the hour and minute hands, which had to be reconfigured, as the mirascope was now the centerpiece of the watch.

The hands became pointers revolving on an invisible ring around the perimeter of the dial, each equipped with a counterweight to optimize stability. The challenge of creating the hands was to find a material light enough to compensate for the relatively larger – though mainly concealed – size of the display mechanism. The solution was to use anticorodal (aluminum), which has an excellent rigidity/weight coefficient.

The AL-ULA timepiece features a wealth of emblematic elements and references to the ancestral culture of the region. First, the dial which opens on the iconic Mada’in Saleh monument is engraved in solid rose gold. The color green, in connection with the Arab culture of the past and the present. To accentuate the symbolism of the piece, the Arabic hour numerals and the “AL-MIM” motifs have been engraved on the flange. The front of the watch reveals a calligraphy drawn in the Diwani style by a master calligrapher, “AL-ULA and THE MAGIC OF THE ORIENT”, this one is filled by a hand engraving.

The aesthetic and symbolic spectacle is continued on to the back of the AL-ULA timepiece. The ball-bearing cover is decorated with an engraving of the coat of arms of the Christophe Claret brand around which the green sapphire oscillating weight of the self-winding movement rotates. It should be noted that Christophe Claret has obtained a patent for the sapphire element connecting the ball-bearings to the oscillating weight concealed behind a circle Crafted in green sapphire so as to reveal the meticulous movement finishing, all decorated with a motif around the edge engraved by hand with a green enamel filling.

Finally, the back bezel is engraved with the symbolism of AL-ULA’s current geographic location. The back of the watch shows important inscriptions relating to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, guardian of today AL-ULA. All adorned with green enamel, the inscriptions “LA ILAH ILA ALLAH MOHAMAD RASOOL ALLAH” and “THE KINGDOM OF SAUDI ARABIA” are also calligraphed in the Diwani style and engraved by hand to perfect this extraordinary masterpiece.

Technical specifications

Movement
Caliber: AVE15, self-winding
Diameter: 26.20 mm
Thickness: 3.37 mm (without hands)
Number of parts: 186
Number of jewels: 28
Barrels: Twin barrels
Power reserve: 72 hours
Escapement: Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph) – Swiss lever
‘Mystery’ oscillating weight with sapphire crystal segment and transferred motifs

Functions
Hours and minutes display

Case
Grade 5 titanium/ Red gold 5N
Dimensions: Ø 44 x 18.49 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft

Strap
Green alligator

Distinctive features

Front
The AL-ULA watch is inspired by the Aventicum model: the center of the dial, the mirascope with the emblematic monument of Mada’in Saleh micro-engraved. Around, oriental calligraphy engraved and lacquered in green and gray color.

Back
The oscillating weight is in green sapphire revealing the movement, adorned with an “Al-Mim” motif engraved and enameled in green around the circumference of the weight.

On a decorative plate, green decal of two inscriptions Arabic:
– At 12: “LA ILLAH ILA ALLAH MOHAMAD RASOOL ALLAH” “There is no god but GOD and Muhammad is his messenger”
– At 6: “AL MAMLAKA ALARABIA ALSAOUDIA” “The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia”
– At 3 and 9: the sword symbol of the flag of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia

Models

Reference MTR.AVE15.600-617
Case: Grade 5 titanium
Hands: Anticorodal, anodized green with 4N red gold tips, black lacquered
Crown: Grade 5 titanium and anthracite gray grade 5 PVD titanium
Limited edition: 17
Price: 69’000 Swiss francs (ex VAT)

Reference MTR.AVE15.620-637
Case: Red gold 5N
Hands: Anticorodal, anodized black with 4N red gold tips, black lacquered
Crown: Red Gold 5N Strap: Green alligator
Limited edition: 17
Price: 77’000 Swiss francs (ex VAT)

Christophe Claret Maestro Indian

Seamlessly blending aesthetics and technicality, Maestro showcases an original take on the horological creativity of Christophe Claret. Its glass dome provides a striking, almost dizzying view of the movement architecture and the famous Charles X bridges. Endowed with a seven-day power reserve, a cone-shaped large date display and a 3D MEMO function, Maestro asserts itself as the first Haute Complication watch by Christophe Claret with a price of 72’000 CHF.

The 42mm case – the smallest diameter in the Christophe Claret collections – in grade 5 titanium, 5N red gold or platinum asserts its style with a curvex shape that accentuates its trim design. The choice of a glass dome to serve as a bezel provides a whole new perspective on the movement. The airy and graphic architecture – reinforced by the inner bezel ring featuring matt and polished finishing or set with baguette-cut gems, as well as Christophe Claret’s characteristic two-tone, bi-material hands.

Christophe Claret Maestro Indian

The show really gets going with an exploration of the mechanical hand-wound movement. In line with previous models in the Traditional collection, Christophe Claret has lavished great care on every detail and focused on ensuring an ideal match between technical and aesthetic aspects. The visual journey begins with the famous Charles X style stepped and skeletonized bridges that have become a signature of the Maison through its various collections.

The skeleton-working of the bridge supporting the escapement represents a clever blend of classicism and modernity that affords a chance to appreciate all its subtle features. The balance-wheel with countersunk screws has been entirely developed and produced in-house.

Expressing a permanent concern for details, a natural ruby or a natural sapphire, depending on the version, adorns this assembly in order to conceal the shock-absorbing system. This rare degree of mastery, encompassing the full range of Haute Horlogerie professions, enables the Manufacture to transcend technical sophistication by its constant pursuit of aesthetic perfection.

The visual adventure through the intricacies of the movement continues with two series-coupled barrels ensuring optimal efficiency and majestically positioned at 12 o’clock. Here too, the bridges are skeletonized to provide an exemplary view of the blade spring of the first barrel and thus enable the wearer of the watch to gauge the state of the seven-day power reserve. A fine example of the golden rule tirelessly followed by Christophe Claret: techniques and aesthetics join forces in serving useful complications.

Christophe Claret never misses out on a chance to express his creative audacity through original displays running counter to traditional design codes. An excellent example is the large date that the watchmaker has cleverly placed at 5 o’clock. Composed of two cones, one for the tens on the upper part and the second for the units, this patented large date display performs a semi-instantaneous jump between midnight and twenty past midnight. Lending the perfect finishing touch, its top is set with a natural ruby or a natural sapphire.

As if to echo the 3D effect of this voluminous date display, another cone shape – also topped with a sapphire or ruby – draws the gaze to the space between 3 and 4 o’clock. Never one to stint on playful complications liable to fire the imagination of watch connoisseurs, Christophe Claret unveils here another brand-new function.

Inspired by the expression “tie a knot in your handkerchief” to help one remember something important, MEMO is an ingenious mechanical reminder intended for absent-minded individuals as well as fans of technical gadgets. Whatever daily objective the owner of the Maestro has set himself, the MEMO is there to remind him of his commitments. In the initial position, meaning when the owner must do something, the gem visible at 6 o’clock on the side face of the MEMO is the same color as the one at the top of the MEMO, meaning two rubies or two sapphires depending on the model.

Once the objective has been met, a simple press on the pusher at 2 o’clock pivots the MEMO function, which will display a diamond on its side face at 6 o’clock, instead of the ruby or the sapphire. The MEMO will return to its initial position each night in a twenty-minute process driven by a semi-instantaneous jump system.

Hand-finished according to the noblest Haute Horlogerie traditions, the Maestro reveals a level of finishing that few watch manufacturers can claim to master, such as the stepped Charles X style bridges featuring 26 interior angles. A sapphire crystal pane fitted on the back of the watch provides a chance to admire the meticulous movement decorations.

Maestro Indian is in grade 5 titanium pink chrome movement, issued in 17-piece limited editions.

Technical details

Model: Christophe Claret Maestro Indian
Reference: MTR.DMC16.330-337

Movement
Caliber: DMC16, mechanical hand-wound Dimensions: – Diameter: 36.25 mm – Thickness: 10.50 mm (without the hands) Number of components: 349 Number of jewels: 33
Barrels: Two series-mounted barrels Power reserve: 7 days (approx. 168 hours)
Escapement:
– Swiss lever escapement
– Balance-wheel with countersunk screws
– Balance-wheel oscillation frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)

Functions
Pointer-type display of the hours and minutes
Pyramid-shaped large date display at 5 o’clock, with tens on the upper cone and units on the lower cone
MEMO function between 3 and 4 o’clock: cone shape adorned with a sapphire serving to remind the wearer of a commitment

Movement decoration/finish
Stepped and skeletonized Charles X style bridges
Skeletonized barrel
26 interior angles

Case
Grade 5 titanium
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 16.06 mm
Crown: Stainless steel
Water resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)

Hands
Black chrome-plated and blue anodized aluminum, with Super-Luminova®

Strap
Blue alligator

Edition
Limited series: 17

Retail price
Price excluding tax in Swiss francs: CHF 72,000.-

Christophe Claret Napoleon: Westminster Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater with Jaquemart Automata

Independent Swiss luxury watch manufacture Christophe Claret pays homage to Napoleon Bonaparte on the occasion of the bicentenary of his death by producing an exceptional watch. The «Napoleon» is a Westminster flying tourbillon minute repeater provided with a jaquemart automata featuring Napoleon with his soldiers.

To pay tribute to the genius military strategist, a military campaign, entirely handmade miniature painting, is staged in the first painting of this series of unique pieces. The animated characters are embossed and enhanced with colors.

Christophe Claret Napoleon Red Gold watch

Christophe Claret Napoleon red gold watch case back

Napoleon, to reward his bravest soldiers, created, from the start of his reign, the Legion of Honor and his famous medal. Christophe Claret decided to put the exceptional symbol on the tourbillon cage of this timepiece.

Christophe Claret Napoleon titanium

Christophe Claret Napoleon titanium case back

The Westminster minute repeater mechanism plays a musical tune when the quarters ring. Each quarters has a different ringtone «C D E G; G D E C; E G D C. » This ringtone, resulting from a collaboration between Christophe Claret and a virtuoso violinist, offers notes with optimal quality.

This musical tone is accompanied by the animation of the stage automatons. The «Napoleon» is available in two limited editions of 8 pieces, an edition in Red Gold and an edition in Titanium. All unique, they are each differentiated by their decor.

Christophe Claret Napoleon red gold

Christophe Claret Napoleon casebackDriven by NBC98 caliber, the Christophe Claret Napoleon sets the tone in the family of traditional complications watches, the first of the four collections of the brand. It is inspired by previous creations by the master watchmaker, while once again pushing the limits of what is possible in this area.

With a frequency of 3 hertz (21,600 vibrations per hour) by means of its flying tourbillon, the NBC98caliber comes to life thanks to a single barrel. The mechanism has a power reserve of around 60 hours. The activation of the minute repeater is traditionally made through a sliding pusher on the left side of the case. We can therefore contemplate the animation of the Jaquemart automata, while listening the melodious sound of time by the Westminster cathedral ringing.

Christophe Claret Napoleon titanium

Christophe Claret Napoleon titanium case backChristophe Claret is the designer of this four-branch balance wheel which offers an inertia / weight ratio close to the ideal balance: although very complex to manufacture, this aerodynamic balance is easy to adjust and balance.

The «cathedral» stamps of Napoleon’s «Westminster» ringing have been the subject of special care -as always with Christophe Claret. This type of bell has the particularity of going around the movement twice in order to express sounds that are longer, clearer and more powerful. Excellence is required for their manufacture in drawn steel, for their assembly and tuning. They benefit from a patented in-house invention which blocks significant vibrations despite their exceptional lengths and thus prohibits all parasitic noises.

Christophe Claret Napoleon

Christophe Claret NapoleonThe case harmoniously combines the polished and satin finishes of 5N red gold or titanium, highlighting the play of lights.

Grade 5 titanium is hard and very difficult to machine, it has the advantage of being extremely light and above all of sublimating the transmission of the ringing sound. The dial also magnifies the light and dark, with its unique nuances of hues and personalized materials.

Christophe Claret Napoleon

Christophe Claret NapoleonThe Napoleon watch displays a handmade miniature painting of a different battle setting on each of the 8 unique pieces.

Technical details

Model: Christophe Claret Napoleon

Movement
Caliber NBC98, mechanical, hand-wound movement
Diameter: 37.00 mm
Height: 9.03mm (without hands)
Components: 511
Jewels: 36
Barrel: Single mainspring barrel
Power reserve: Approximately 60 hours
Escapement: Swiss lever
Frequency: 3 Hz (21’600 vph)
Flying tourbillon with cage bridge decorated with the Legion of Honor
Tourbillon rotates once every 60 seconds

Functions
Hours, minutes
Hours, quarters and minutes repeater on demand
Inertia wheel
4-note minute repeater playing Westminster chime
4-jaquemart automata animated when ringing

Operating devices
Slide to activate the minute repeater function
2-position crown
– Drawn: time setting
– Thrust: winding the movement

Case
Diameter: 47mm
Height: 15 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft

Editions

Christophe Claret Napoleon Titanium, MTR.NBC98

Case: Grade 5 titanium
Dial: hand painting
Hands: Steel
Crown: Grade 5 titanium
Strap: Embossed Vegetable leather
Edition: 8 unique pieces
Price: CHF 590’000(excluding taxes)

Christophe Claret Napoleon Red Gold, MTR.NBC98

Case: 5N red gold
Dial: hand painting
Hands: Gold
Crown: 5N red gold
Strap: Embossed Vegetable leather
Edition: 8 unique pieces
Price: CHF 590’000 (excluding taxes)

Christophe Claret Concertino

Christophe Claret Concertino is an Haute Horlogerie minute-repeater watch featuring a completely redesigned movement with a unique regulator.

It belongs to the family of traditional complications watches, the first of the four collections of the independent Swiss brand. It is inspired by previous creations by Christophe Claret, while once again pushing the limits of what is possible in this area. Its CRM89 caliber is an entirely redesigned composition, from the mainplate to the bridges, including the flywheel which regulates the minute repeater mechanism.

Christophe Claret Concertino watch red gold version

With a frequency of 3 hertz (21,600 vibrations per hour), this single barrel mechanical-hand wound movement provides a power reserve of around 60 hours. The minute repeater activation is traditionally made through a sliding pusher on the left side of the case. The choreography of the two hammers is visible through the sapphire crystal back of the watch.

Christophe Claret Concertino red gold watch case back view

Christophe Claret is the designer of this four-branch balance wheel which offers an inertia / weight ratio close to the ideal balance: although very complex to manufacture, this aerodynamic balance is easy to adjust and balance.

Special care has been taken in the Concertino “Cathedral” bells. This type of bell has the particularity of going around the movement twice in order to produce melodies that are longer, clearer and more powerful.

Christophe Claret Concertino red gold minute repeater watch

Excellent technical-know is required for their manufacture in drawn steel, for their assembly and tuning. They benefit from a patented in-house invention which blocks significant vibrations despite their exceptional lengths and thus prohibits all parasitic noises. The balance cockbridge has a micrometric adjustment system that is also patented.

Concertino is available in 5N red gold or grade-5 titanium, and its fully customizable dial makes it unique each time. Measuring 45mm in diameter, the case harmoniously combines the polished and satin finishes of 5N red gold or titanium, highlighting the play of lights.

Christophe Claret Concertino titanium watch

Christophe Claret Concertino features a large dial, set with an immense sapphire crystal under a finely satin-brushed bezel. The dial (enamelled, engraved, set and / or guilloché) also magnifies the light and dark, with its unique nuances of hues and personalized materials.

Christophe Claret Concertino titanium case back

The early Concertinos display an ornamental hand engraving (nearly 1.5 mm) of two dragons – protectors of the Sun, an 8 mm pigeon’s blood ruby, in its rose gold livery or protectors of the Earth, a sapphire 8 mm blue, in its titanium livery.

Christophe Claret Concertino minute repeater watch titanium case

The transparent case-back affords the view of the exceptional architecture of the movement. On the back side, the watch features the famous stepped and skeletonized Charles X bridges, signatures of Christophe Claret. The movement is in micro-blasted and rhodium-plated nickel silver for the Concertino grade 5 titanium version, or 4N red gold plated for the 5N Gold Concertino version.

Technical details

Model: Christophe Claret Concertino

Movement
Caliber: CRM89, mechanical, hand-wound movement
Diameter: 34.00 mm
Height: 6.70 mm (without hands)
Components: 376
Jewels: 33
Barrel: Single mainspring barrel
Power reserve: Approximately 60 hours
Escapement: Swiss lever
3 Hz frequency (21’600 vph)
Features: Charles X style skeletonized, stepped bridges
Charles X cockbridge with patented micrometric adjustment system
Minute-repeater with Cathedral bells with patented noise reducer

Functions
Hours, minutes
Hours, quarters and minutes repeater on demand
Inertia wheel

Case
Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 12.90 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft

Versions

Concertino Grade 5 titanium, reference MTR.CRM89.900

Case: Grade 5 titanium
Dial: Ornamental engraved dragons with “grand feu” enamel, Blue Sapphire
Hands: Steel and blue sapphire
Crown: Grade 5 titanium
Strap: Alligator
Edition: Unique piece
Price: CHF 348’000 (excluding taxes)

Concertino 5N red gold, reference MTR.CRM89.901

Case: 5N red gold
Dial: Ornamental engraved dragons with “grand feu” enamel, Pigeon’s blood red ruby
Hands: Steel and red sapphire
Crown: 5N red gold
Strap: Alligator
Edition: Unique piece
Price: CHF 378’000 (excluding taxes)

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 Azteca & X-TREM-1Calavera

Taking inspiration from the ancient Mexican culture and traditions, the Independent Swiss luxury watch manufacture Christophe Claret has created two unique pieces of its X-TREM-1 watch.

The X-TREM-1 Azteca

The X-TREM-1 Azteca incorporates an iconic work of Aztec art in the form of the “Stone of the Sun” in relief, made of solid gold and entirely hand-engraved.

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 Azteca

This unique piece is made with 5N red gold and black grade 5 PVD titanium. The sapphire tubes have been replaced by cylindrical ring-bound tubes housing mobile stainless steel spheres indicating the time.

The X-TREM-1 Calavera

Calavera is a unique celebration of remembering the departed. Held every year in November since ancient times, this emblematic celebration of Mexican culture inspired Christophe Claret for this new version of the X-TREM-1 watch. A fully diamonds set skull, with an octagonal emerald, pigeon’s blood ruby eyes and the tourbillon enhanced with an emerald, symbol of el dia de los muertos, takes place on this new X-TREM-1. The beads, indicating the time, have been revised in the colors of Mexico.

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 Calavera

Driven as ever by a determination to present avant-garde timepieces, Christophe Claret has selected black grade 5 PVD titanium to make the case of this new version of the X-TREM-1. The sapphire tubes have been replaced by cylindrical ring-bound tubes housing mobile stainless steel spheres indicating the time.

About X-TREM-1 collection

The Extreme Complications Watches line expresses Christophe Claret’s determination to continue pushing the boundaries of mechanical watch making, integrating certain fields of research never previously applied in this domain. X-TREM-1 is a fine example of this approach that involves using a system driven by magnetic fields display the hours and minutes.

The challenge was bold and some might say a little crazy: How could someone possibly think about introducing a magnetic field – the arch enemy of horological mechanisms – into the heart of a watch?

The Christophe Claret team has done just that by creating a system where two small steel spheres – hollowed to make them lighter and encased within two tubes placed to the right and left of the caseband– are controlled by precision magnetic fields generated by two miniature magnets moved by cables.

The cables are incredibly flexible, made from hundreds of Dyneema nanofibers all contained within an ultra-high-strength polyethylene gel, capable of withstanding tensile forces of up to a kilo. The entire thread is thinner than a human hair. The resistance of the thread has been tested in the Manufacture Claret on an accelerated-wear simulator corresponding to60 years of operation.

The spheres have no mechanical connection with the movement, with each one floating inside the two tubes and creating outstanding horological magic. This technology was developed with the School of Business and Engineering Vaud (HEIG-VD) in Yverdon-les-Bains, and a team headed by Professor Besson.

The entire construction and finishing of this timepiece meets the extreme demands systematically imposed by Christophe Claret. Ultra-light titanium was used for the three-dimensional curvex main-plate and the bridges. The flying tourbillon is fitted with double ceramic bearings to enhance its shock-resistance. It is inclined at a 30-degree angle in order to make it even more clearly visible to the wearer.

The hand-wound watch draws its energy from two barrels enabling the use of a sophisticated display without disturbing the rate of the tourbillon, and thus the accuracy of the watch. The first barrel is reserved for the tourbillon, the second for the hours and minutes.

Technical details

Collection: X-TREM-1

Movement
Caliber FLY11 – mechanical, hand-wound movement
Dimensions: 26.60 x 46.40 x 11.94 mm
Number of components: 419
Number of jewels: 64
Power reserve: 50+ hours
Barrels: Dual barrels: one for the movement gear train, one for the time indications

Escapement
– Swiss lever
– Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
– Tourbillon rotates once every 60 seconds
– Flying tourbillon inclined at 30° supported by a double ceramic bearing, with cone-shaped pinion transmission

Functions
Mystery hours and minutes displayed with indications provided by hollowed steel spheres moving 23 mm inside two tubes. The metal spheres are driven by magnetic carriages following a thread.
Seconds displayed on the tourbillon cage
Movement state-of-wind indication
Fast time adjustment is via an integrated pusher on the caseband at 12 o’clock

Distinctive features
Use of precisely-shaped magnetic fields in a mechanical movement
No mechanical connection between the indications and the movement
Winding and time-setting via lift-out rotating “bows” on caseback
Skeletonized barrel

Case
Rectangular with curvex profile
Dimensions: 40.80 x 56.82 x 15 mm
Water resistance: 2 ATM / 20 m / 67 ft

Model: X-TREM-1 Azteca

Case
5N red gold and black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium with gold numerals, white gold cylindrical ring-bound tubes
5N red gold Aztec Sun Stone, handmade
Spheres: Stainless steel

Strap
Anthracite alligator

Edition
Unique Piece

Price
Price in Dollar (ex VAT): 326,000

Model: X-TREM-1 Calavera

Case
White gold and black PVD-treated grade-5 titanium with white Super-LumiNova® numerals
Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium cylindrical ring-bound tubes
White gold skull, eye in ruby, emerald and snow set diamonds
Tubes: 4 diamonds set
Spheres: Stainless steel, red-colored and green-colored
Lugs: White gold and snow set diamonds

Tourbillon
Emerald-set

Strap
Anthracite python

Edition
Unique Piece

Price
Price in Dollar (ex VAT): 490,000.

Christophe Claret Poker, New Model with Black PVD Titanium Case and Blue PVD Titanium Dial

Introduced in 2014, Poker is the third addition to Christophe Claret’s trilogy of gaming watches followed by the Blackjack and Baccara models. This year, Christophe Claret presents a new Poker version featuring black PVD-treated grade-5 titanium case and Blue PVD titanium dial.

The Poker watch houses an extremely sophisticated mechanism to reproduce the randomness of the game within a case just 45mm in diameter. For up to three players, there are an incredible number of game play possibilities.

Christophe Claret Poker, New Model with Black PVD Titanium Case and Blue PVD Titanium Dial

Poker was actually to be the first of the gaming timepieces launched by Manufacture Claret. While the game seems simple to organize on a table, its watchmaking version is an extreme test and no technical solution had been found until Mr Christophe Claret himself came up with the answer. While the first prototype was working in 2011, it required two years to perfect the intricate complication.

Devising the gearing and bringing it all together in a mechanical movement – in other words, orchestrating a complete 52-card game following the rules of poker – is a real feat, one which offers Haute Horlogerie exciting new technical prospects. In total, Poker packs in 32,768 different combinations, i.e. 98,304 combinations for three players. The probabilities have been calculated so that everyone has approximately the same chances of winning.

Christophe Claret Poker, New Model with Black PVD Titanium Case and Blue PVD Titanium Dial

Users can immerse themselves in real three-player games of the most popular variant of poker: Texas Hold’em. As a recap of the rules, a game of Texas Hold’em starts with two closed cards being dealt to each player, i.e. visible only to the player. Five other open cards are dealt out in stages: three, known as the flop, after the first betting round; an additional card, the turn, after another betting round; and finally a last, the river. To have the best hand in Texas Hold’em poker, the player must have the best possible combination of five cards from the seven in their hand.

This is how the PCK05 movement came into being. This completely original automatic-winding in-house caliber comprises no fewer than 655 components, and features two mainspring barrels that provide approximately 72 hours of power. Poker has not abandoned its time display role, with two central hands providing excellent legibility.

Christophe Claret Poker, New Model with Black PVD Titanium Case and Blue PVD Titanium Dial

Poker is the very first timepiece that manages to replicate the game in an automaton watch. The ease of use when playing Poker is as impressive and unexpected as its intrinsic complexity. Up to three players face each other around the watch. The first hand is dealt by means of a pusher at 9 o’clock. This winds up a spring, which simultaneously spins four concentric discs − one of which made from sapphire − on which the cards are printed. There is no way of speculating as to the position of the discs. After a few moments the discs are immobilized at random by dampers. All the discs are mounted on ceramic or ruby bearings so they turn as freely as possible.

Once the push-piece at 9 o’clock has been pressed, the now shuffled cards are dealt in windows at 6 o’clock, 10:30 and 2:30. An ingenious mechanism of angled shutters makes them invisible to the other players. After this first betting round, the pusher at 10 o’clock reveals the flop, i.e. three cards which appear on the left of the dial. Another push-piece at 8 o’clock then reveals the turn, one card on the right of the dial. Finally, the same push-piece deals out the river, also on the right of the dial. True to his mastery of chiming watches, Christophe Claret equipped Poker with a cathedral gong, which sounds whenever the flop and turn/river pushers are pressed. Now comes the showdown.

The dial of Poker is entirely made and assembled within Manufacture Claret and was designed to offer excellent legibility of both the time and the Poker game. The dial is animated, on this model, by tokens, cards and casino tip in 3D, that is all that is found on a Texas Holdem carpet, for more visual realism. Emblematic of the brand, the ruby and black PVD-treated titanium hands – among the most expensive to make because of the complexity of machining these precious materials – are enhanced by a luminescent coating. The hour indexes are on the bezel so as not to crowd the stage. Although the dial has an incredible 85 components, its balanced harmonious design ensures that the players are not distracted.

Christophe Claret Poker, New Model with Black PVD Titanium Case and Blue PVD Titanium Dial

This world of the casino even continues through to the back of the watch. The transparent case-back provides a view of the oscillating winding rotor in the form of a roulette wheel. This rotor design is already an icon of the Christophe Claret Interactive Gaming Complication collection. Once activated by one or two shaking motions, the roulette turns for a few moments before stopping: no more bets please! An arrow points to one of the 37 numbers on an inner ring. Did your number come up by chance? If so, it may have been thanks to a special key opposite a green emerald set on the case-back. This personalization is much appreciated by those who believe in their lucky number.

This Poker is produced in a 12-piece limited edition.

Technical specifications

Reference: MTR.PCK05.001-020

Movement
Caliber: PCK05, automatic-winding mechanical movement
Dimensions: 38.6 x 9.92 mm (with cathedral gong)
Number of components: 655
Number of jewels: 72
Double barrels
Power reserve: 72 hours (approx.)
Escapement: Swiss lever, 4 Hz /28,800 vph

Functions
Hour and minute display
2 games: Texas Hold’em Poker game with chime, and roulette wheel
Patented cathedral gong

Case
Black PVD-treated grade-5 titanium
Dimensions: 45 x 15.95 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
Crown: Black PVD-treated grade-5 titanium

Dial
Blue PVD titanium
Tokens: Anticorodal color anodized
Hands: Red ruby and black PVD-treated titanium, with Super-Luminova®

Strap
Black alligator

Edition
Limited edition of 12 pieces

Price
Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 164’000.-

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 (New Damascus Steel Editions)

The Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 timepiece is now available in new versions enhanced with the damascened steel.

Christophe Claret’s X-TREM-1 is an extreme complications watch that represents a major technical and aesthetic accomplishment: a flying tourbillon inclined at a 30° angle, mounted on a three-dimensional curvex titanium main-plate, equipped with a retrograde hours and minutes display system that is radically different from existing watchmaking conventions. Two tiny hollowed steel spheres, isolated within sapphire tubes on the left and right sides of the caseband, magically move with no mechanical connection thanks to magnetic fields.

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 (New Damascus Steel Editions)

The X-TREM-1 watch incorporates a system driven by magnetic fields display the hours and minutes. It is an unorthodox concept to introduce magnetic field – the arch enemy of horological mechanisms – into the heart of a watch. The Christophe Claret team has done just that by creating a system where two small steel spheres – hollowed to make them lighter and encased within two sapphire tubes placed to the right and left of the case-band – are controlled by precision magnetic fields generated by two miniature magnets moved by cables.

The cables are incredibly flexible, made from hundreds of Dyneema nano-fibers all contained within an ultra-high-strength polyethylene gel, capable of withstanding tensile forces of up to a kilo. The entire thread is thinner than a human hair. The resistance of the thread has been tested in the Manufacture Claret on an accelerated-wear simulator corresponding to 60 years of operation.

The spheres have no mechanical connection with the movement, with each one floating inside the two tubes and creating outstanding horological magic. This extraordinary mechanism was developed in partnership with the School of Business and Engineering Vaud (HEIG-VD) in Yverdon-les-Bains, and a team headed by Professor Besson.

The entire construction and finishing of this timepiece meets the extreme demands systematically imposed by Christophe Claret. Ultra-light titanium was used for the three-dimensional curvex mainplate and the bridges. The flying tourbillon is fitted with double ceramic bearings to enhance its shock-resistance. It is inclined at a 30-degree angle in order to make it even more clearly visible to the wearer. The hand-wound watch draws its energy from two barrels enabling the use of a sophisticated display without disturbing the rate of the tourbillon, and thus the accuracy of the watch. The first barrel is reserved for the tourbillon, the second for the hours and minutes.

New Damascened Steel Versions

A keen student of history, Christophe Claret felt it would be an interesting exercise to craft the case of the X-TREM-1 – the most innovative and contemporary model in his collection – from damascened steel produced using ancestral methods.

Damascened steel was first made in the Caucasus around 2500 BC, soon after the discovery of iron, and subsequently spread throughout Europe as well as to Asia. Damascened steel is traditionally produced by layer-assembling two types of steel. Several successive forging and folding steps result in a piece of metal that may comprise several hundreds of layers. This extremely technical high-end alloy boasts excellent properties: a homogenous structure, pure material, as well as extreme resistance to corrosion and shocks.

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 (New Damascus Steel Editions)

The X-TREM-1 blue Damascus edition boasts a pleasing aesthetic alliance between Blue PVD titanium and blue PVD damascened steel. Driven as ever by a determination to present avant-garde timepieces, PVD-treated grade-5 titanium and damascened steel were the metals chosen to make the case of this new version of the X-TREM-1.

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 (New Damascus Steel Editions)

The X-TREM-1 Damascus model in white gold with Damascus steel features black lacquer numerals and black chrome-treated stainless steel spheres. The 5N red gold with damascened steel version features 5N red gold numerals and 4N pink gold-colored stainless steel spheres.

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 (New Damascus Steel Editions)

For these new X-TREM-1 models, the grades of steel used are 316L and 304L. The difficulty lay in introducing gold or lacquer into damascened steel for the time indication, and the second challenge involved actually machining the case from the extremely resistant damascened steel, and especially to develop specific tools, capable of machining the damask composed of two different stainless steels.

Each X-Trem-1 edition is produced in an 8-piece limited edition.

Technical Specifications

Movement

Caliber: FLY11 – mechanical, hand-wound movement
Dimensions: 26.6 x 46.4 x 11.94 mm
Number of components: 419
Number of jewels: 64
Power reserve: 50+ hours
Barrels: Dual barrels: one for the movement gear train, one for the time indications

Escapement
Swiss lever
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
Tourbillon rotates once every 60 seconds
Flying tourbillon inclined at 30° supported by a double ceramic bearing, with cone-shaped pinion transmission

Functions
Mystery hours and minutes displayed with indications provided by hollowed steel spheres moving 23 mm inside two cylindrical sapphire tubes. The metal spheres are driven by magnetic carriages following a thread.
Seconds displayed on the tourbillon cage
Movement state-of-wind indication
Fast time adjustment is via an integrated pusher on the caseband at 12 o’clock
Quick time correction per pusher at 12 o’clock (Tboard Key)

Distinctive features
Use of precisely-shaped magnetic fields in a mechanical movement
No mechanical connection between time indications and the movement
Winding and time-setting via lift-out rotating “bows” on caseback
Skeletonized barrel

Case
Rectangular with curvex profile
Dimensions: 40.80 x 56.82 x 15 mm
Water resistance: 2 ATM / 20 m / 67 ft

Models

 X-Trem-1, Reference: MTR.FLY11.180-188

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 (New Damascus Steel Editions)

  • Material: Titanium PVD Blue and damascened steel blue with black lacquer numerals; Sapphire tubes
  • Spheres: Orange-colored stainless steel
  • Strap: Blue alligator
  • 8- Piece limited series
  • Price in Swiss Francs (ex VAT): 268’000.-

 X-Trem-1, Reference: MTR.FLY11.130-138

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 (New Damascus Steel Editions)

  • Material: White gold and damascened steel with black lacquer numerals; Sapphire tubes
  • Spheres: Black chrome-treated stainless steel
  • Strap: Anthracite alligator
  • 8-piece limited series
  • Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 272,000.-

 X-Trem-1, Reference: MTR.FLY11.140-148

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 (New Damascus Steel Editions)

  • Material: 5N red gold and damascened steel with 5N red gold numerals; Sapphire tubes
  • Spheres: 4N pink gold-colored stainless steel
  • Strap: Anthracite alligator
  • 8-piece limited series
  • Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 268,000.-

Christophe Claret Maestro Quetzalcóatl Limited Edition

Christophe Claret has created a masterpiece to honour one of ancient Mexico’s main deities: the Quetzalcoatl watch, available as a limited edition of 8 pieces. Engraved by hand in meticulous detail, the feathered serpent is skilfully incorporated around the Maestro’s movement.

Quetzalcoatl, the important Aztec deity – patron of the priesthood, inventor of the calendar and protector of craftsmen – proudly snakes across the Maestro’s movement. This feathered serpent can be glimpsed between the hour and minute hands, the indicator for the MEMO function, and the spring balance. This divinity, embodied by a feathered serpent, is now shrouded in mystery within the heart of this new Maestro.

The Maestro watch was a natural choice to accommodate the rippling coils of the Quetzalcóatl snake. Following the model unveiled in 2017 and infusing a new dynamic into the Tradition collection, the Maestro Quetzalcóatl appeals through both its shape and its proportions, including the pure and powerful lines of its 42 mm black PVD-treated titanium case topped by an impressive sapphire crystal dome.

A boldly contemporary model intended for trendsetters and influencers, the Maestro offers a spectacular view of the movement and the snake’s sinuous body, which may be admired from every angle and along every sleek scale. The Maestro is also ideal because of its hand-wound movement, whose skilfully arranged components are displayed in all their glorious technical profusion, vividly reflecting that of a luxuriant jungle.

The overall construction is revealed through a multi-dimensional architecture. Like all timepieces by Christophe Claret, the Maestro showcases a wealth of details mingling technical and aesthetic elements in an exceptionally coherent manner.

Brand enthusiasts will recognize the watchmaker’s inimitable touch in the famous Charles X stepped and skeletonized bridges – with 26 interior angles – that have become a signature of the Maison. The skeleton-working of the bridge supporting the escapement represents a clever blend of classicism and modernity that affords a chance to appreciate all its subtle features.

The visual adventure through the intricacies of the movement continues with two series-coupled barrels ensuring optimal efficiency and majestically positioned at 12 o’clock. Here too, the bridges are skeletonized to provide an exemplary view of the blade spring of the first barrel and thus enable the wearer of the watch to gauge the state of the seven-day power reserve.

In terms of horological complications, the Maestro Quetzalcóatl once again illustrates the creative audacity cultivated by Christophe Claret. Witness the patented large date display at 5 o’clock, composed of two cones – one for the tens on the upper part and the second for the units – and performing a semi-instantaneous jump between midnight and twenty past midnight. As if to echo the 3D effect of this voluminous date display, the Maestro’s characteristic MEMO function appears between 3 and 4 o’clock.

Inspired by the expression “tie a knot in your handkerchief” to help one remember something important, the MEMO is an ingenious mechanical reminder intended for absent-minded individuals as well as fans of technical gadgets. Whatever daily objective the owner of the Maestro has set himself, the MEMO is there to remind him of his commitments.

In the initial position, meaning when the owner must do something, a tsavorite appears at 6 o’clock on the side face of the MEMO, like the gem set at its top. Once the objective has been met, a simple press on the pusher at 2 o’clock pivots the MEMO function, which will display a diamond on its side face at 6 o’clock, instead of the tsavorite. The MEMO will return to its initial position each night in a twenty-minute process driven by a semi-instantaneous jump system.

Technical specifications

Model: Maestro Quetzalcóatl
Reference: MTR.DMC16.320-328

Movement
Caliber DMC16, mechanical hand-wound
Diameter: 36.25 mm
Thickness: 10.50 mm (without the hands)
Number of components: 349
Number of jewels: 33
Barrels: Two series-mounted barrels
Power reserve: 7 days (approx. 168 hours)

Escapement
– Swiss lever escapement
– Balance-wheel with countersunk screws
– Balance-wheel oscillation frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)

Aesthetic features
– Stepped and skeletonized Charles X style bridges
– Skeletonized barrel
– 26 interior angles

Functions
Pointer-type display of the hours and minutes
Pyramid-shaped large date display at 5 o’clock, with tens on the upper cone and units on the lower cone
MEMO function between 3 and 4 o’clock: cone shape adorned with a natural ruby and a diamond serving to remind the wearer of a commitment

Case
Grade 5 titanium
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 16.06 mm
Water resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)
Crown: Black PVD-treated stainless steel, with cabochon-cut tsavorite

Dial
Hands: Black chrome-plated, green-lacquered sapphire with Super-LumiNova®
Snake: 4N pink gold, Quetzacoalt (green)

Strap
Green snake Elaphe

Edition
Limited series of 8 pieces

Retail price
Price excluding tax in Swiss francs: 96’000 CHF

Christophe Claret Maestro Corailn Unique Piece for Only Watch 2019 Charity Auction

For the fourth consecutive year, Christophe Claret is supporting the Monaco Association against Muscular Dystrophy (AMM) and donating a timepiece to Only Watch for its eighth edition: Maestro Corail, a formidable timepiece by nature.

This altruistic momentum has driven Christophe Claret to take an authentic artistic approach in giving life to the Maestro Corail watch. Inspired by the Maestro Mamba watch that is part of the collection, this timepiece is unique, resulting from a blend of fine craftsmanship and aesthetic creativity.

Christophe Claret is a born provocateur, now venturing into the perilous wilds of the tropical forests by placing the voluptuous undulations of a coral snake at the heart of the Maestro watch. This brightly colored, swift and incomparably aggressive snake appears ready to strike anyone who comes within reach of its toxic venom. Wrapped around the movement, its undulating hand-engraved body creates a powerful contrast between the tangy blue and orange brilliancy of its scales and the matt black shade of then movement. Surging from the intricacies of the movement, between the hours and minutes hands, the MEMO function indicator and the sprung balance, the coral snake defies all challengers with its piercing eyes.

The Maestro watch was a natural choice to accommodate the rippling coils of the coral snake. This watch appeals through both its shape and its proportions, including the pure and powerful lines of its 42 mm black PVD-treated titanium case topped by an impressive sapphire crystal dome. A boldly contemporary model intended for trendsetters and influencers, this model offers a spectacular view of the movement and the snake’s sinuous body, which may be admired from every angle and along every sleek scale. It is also ideal because of its hand-wound movement, whose skillfully arranged components are displayed in all their glorious technical profusion, vividly reflecting that of a luxuriant forest.

The overall construction is revealed through a multi-dimensional architecture. Like all timepieces by Christophe Claret, the Maestro showcases a wealth of details mingling technical and aesthetic elements in an exceptionally coherent manner. Brand enthusiasts will recognize the watchmaker’s inimitable touch in the famous Charles X stepped and skeletonized bridges – with 26 interior angles – that have become a signature of the Maison. The skeleton-working of the bridge supporting the escapement represents a clever blend of classicism and modernity that affords a chance to appreciate all its subtle features.

The visual adventure through the intricacies of the movement continues with two series-coupled barrels ensuring optimal efficiency and majestically positioned at 12 o’clock. Here too, the bridges are skeletonized to provide an exemplary view of the blade spring of the first barrel and thus enable the wearer of the watch to gauge the state of the seven-day power reserve.

In terms of horological complications, the Maestro Corail once again illustrates the creative audacity cultivated by Christophe Claret. Witness the patented large date display at 5 o’clock, composed of two cones – one for the tens on the upper part and the second for the units – and performing a semi-instantaneous jump between midnight and twenty past midnight. As if to echo the 3D effect of this voluminous date display, the Maestro’s characteristic MEMO function appears between 3 and 4 o’clock.

Inspired by the expression “tie a knot in your handkerchief” to help one remember something important, the MEMO is an ingenious mechanical reminder intended for absent-minded individuals as well as fans of technical gadgets. Whatever daily objective the owner of the Maestro has set himself, the MEMO is there to remind him of his commitments. In the initial position, meaning when the owner must do something, an orange sapphire appears at 6 o’clock on the side face of the MEMO.

Once the objective has been met, a simple press on the pusher at 2 o’clock pivots the MEMO function, which will display a blue sapphire on its side face at 6 o’clock, like the gem set at its top. The MEMO will return to its initial position each night in a twenty-minute process driven by a semi-instantaneous jump system.

Technical specifications

Reference: MTR.DMC16.907

Movement
Caliber: DMC16, mechanical hand-wound
Diameter: 36.25 mm
Thickness: 10.50 mm (without the hands)
Number of components: 349
Number of jewels: 33
Barrels: Two series-mounted barrels
Power reserve: 7 days (approx. 168 hours)

Escapement
– Swiss lever escapement
– Balance-wheel with countersunk screws
– Balance-wheel oscillation frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)

Aesthetic features:
– Stepped and skeletonized Charles X style bridges
– Skeletonized barrel
-26 interior angles

Functions
Pointer-type display of the hours and minutes
Pyramid-shaped large date display at 5 o’clock, with tens on the upper cone and units on the lower cone
MEMO function between 3 and 4 o’clock: cone shape adorned with an orange or blue sapphire serving to remind the wearer of a commitment

Case
Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 16.06 mm
Water resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)
Crown: Black PVD-treated stainless steel, with cabochon-cut blue sapphire

Dial
Hands: Black chrome-plated, blue-lacquered sapphire with Super-LumiNova®
Snake: 4N pink gold, hand-painted in blue and orange
Strap
Blue snakeskin

Edition
Unique piece

Christophe Claret Loma Watch

Following his collaboration with the Ukrainian boxer Vasyl Lomachenko – winner of one Europe championship title, two Olympic gold medals and three World championship titles – Christophe Claret unveils the Loma watch, a mono-pusher chronograph with striking mechanism and constant force escapement. This timepiece, born of the collaboration between the watchmaker and the boxer and uniting their shared passions, will be available on the markets from September.

On April 12th 2019, in his Los Angeles fight against Englishman Anthony Crolla, Vasyl Lomachenko successfully defended his WBA and WBO lightweight belts by beating his opponent with a spectacular knockout in the fourth round. The Ukrainian boxer has already won the title of Europe champion in Liverpool (2008) in the featherweight category, the title of double Olympic champion – in Beijing (2008) in the featherweight category and in London (2012) in the lightweight category – as well as three World titles in only 12 professional fights: in Chicago (2007) and in Milan (2009) in the featherweight category and in Baku (2011) in the lightweight category.

That same day in Los Angeles, Christophe Claret met Vasyl Lomachenko through Saïd Taghmaoui, a famous Franco-American actor who made his breakout in the film La Haine in 1996 and has been the Christophe Claret brand Ambassador since January 2019. The encounter gave rise to a collaboration between the watchmaker and the boxer that resulted in the creation of this timepiece.

Precision, Rigorous Discipline, Patience, Speed, Elegance and Talent are the shared qualities demonstrated by these two Maestros in their respective arts.

This alliance between Christophe Claret and Loma is no coincidence. In 2013 already, Christophe Claret drew inspiration from the world of boxing based on a simple observation: the ringside boxing bell is one of the most recognizable sounds in sport, signaling the moment boxers go head to head in the ring. A boxing bout is divided into rounds, punctuated by one-minute periods of rest, all announced by the ringside bell. So it is only natural to mark the start of a chronograph with such a sound. This led to the creation of the Kantharos model, a mono-pusher chronograph with constant-force escapement and cathedral-gong striking mechanism, equipped with an ingenious chiming system activated in each mode (start, stop, reset) – that also inspired Christophe Claret in creating the Loma watch.

The Loma watch leaves nothing to chance. Its blue layered dial skillfully plays on depth and transparency, accentuating the visual field, while catching and holding light. Designed like a boxing ring in which the actors display their remarkable skills, it is swept over by the central seconds hand, the black PVD and sapphire hours and minutes hands coated with yellow and white Super-LumiNova®. With chronograph counters on either side, the constant-force device appears to be at dial level – an impressive structural achievement in itself. These counters, bearing transfers of the two Olympic medals in their respective centers, combine strong character with an original disk-type display.

One fixed sapphire disk carries the numerals, while a second mobile black and yellow disk positioned below features an indicator. Each is rimmed with a graduated step, giving the display a pleasing sense of dimensionality. Everything about this watch evokes the boxing world and its Ukrainian champion: witness the choice of mainly blue and yellow colors recalling the national flag; the yellow-lacquered “Loma” inscription on the blue alligator leather strap; the transfers of the belts on the folding clasp as well as the inscription “Round” engraved on the 2 o’clock pusher and enhanced with yellow Super-LumiNova®.

This Christophe Claret creation encapsulates both Haute Horlogerie expertise and High-Tech precision. This mono-pusher chronograph with striking mechanism and constant-force escapement asserts its codes and reinvents short-time measurement.

The concept is entirely in line with Christophe Claret, which has repeatedly distinguished itself with innovative striking mechanisms featuring cathedral gongs. The latter, the acknowledged king of chimes, engraved with a gong hammer, is visible at 10 o’clock and equipped with a patented system that avoids the gong vibrating against the case.

The chronograph delivers peerless and reliable performance. Its clutch disk system prevents the hand from jumping when the chronograph starts to enhance precision. This useful, functional and entertaining chronograph plays on the sensorial – acoustic and tactile – interaction between the instrument and its owner.

In addition to this innovative complication, the Loma watch is also equipped with a constant-force escapement, a nod to the boxing champion, who has demonstrated impressive and constant strength during his fights. Majestically enthroned on the dial side at 6 o’clock, this clever mechanism is a key component that considerably reduces timing variations. The energy delivered to the escapement remains constant from beginning to end of the power reserve. Precision is the overriding goal. The perpetually moving mechanism exercises a hypnotic visual effect, which may be admired beneath a meticulously chamfered sapphire bridge revealing the full extent of the master-watchmaker’s know-how.

Housed inside a 45 mm-diameter case, the movement was designed, developed and assembled in-house. This extremely complex caliber is not built up layer by layer, as is usually the case, but is fully integrated – a unified approach that enhances finesse, performance and coherent technical and aesthetic appeal. The movement design is a feat in its own right. The platinum rotor boasts increased inertia and the mainspring guarantees a 40-hour power reserve.

Clearly visible through the sapphire crystal case back and fitted with 75 jewels – an impressive number that single-handedly symbolizes the complexity of the mechanism – the caliber conceals nothing of its refined finishing. Among its 570 components, the swan-neck regulator spring and oscillating winding rotor feature hand-crafted finishes reflecting the finest Haute Horlogerie traditions. These include polished internal angles, an extremely demanding technique. This wealth of subtle touches offers vivid proof that aesthetic precision pervades even the smallest of components and fully matches the outstanding technical performance of the timepiece.

Technical details

Reference: MTR.MBA13.100-120

Movement
Caliber MBA13, automatic winding mechanical movement
Dimensions: 31.60 x 10.56 mm (without gong)/37.60 x 10.56 mm (with gong)
Number of components: 570
Number of jewels: 75
Power reserve: 40 hours (approx.)
Escapement: Swiss lever-type, 3 Hz (21,600 vph), constant force

Functions
Hours and minutes
Mono-pusher chronograph
Chronograph chimes each time the function is changed (start, stop, reset)
Patented cathedral gong
Constant-force mechanism at 6 o’clock

Case
Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 15.83 mm
Water resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)

Dial
Blue ALD and black PVD-treated with hour markers in yellow Super-Luminova®
Hands: Sapphire and black PVD-treated, with yellow and white Super-Luminova®
Crown: Black PVD-treated titanium, with blue lacquered cabochon

Strap
Blue alligator leather with yellow-lacquered “Loma” inscription and yellow topstitching

Edition
20-piece limited series

Retail price
Price excluding tax in Swiss francs: 126,000

Christophe Claret Margot Velours Limited Edition

“He loves me… He loves me not.”

Margot, the first feminine complication from Christophe Claret, designed and developed within the Manufacture, magnificently reproduces the random unpredictability of nature and appears in a delightfully gentle new version.

Christophe Claret devotes particular attention to women, offering them a full-fledged collection composed of complications exclusively crafted with them in mind. Building on the success achieved by the Margot watch in the 2014 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, Christophe Claret has dreamed up various precious and poetic combinations composing a whole new definition of refinement.

After naturally blue or pink-tinged mother-of-pearl gracing the dial and baguette-cut diamonds or snow-set brilliant-cut diamonds sparkling on the bezel and lugs, Margot now reveals a dark blue mother-of-pearl dial framed by grain setting on its bezel and lugs. This particular technique uses stones of an intermediate size compared with the two settings on the previous versions. Three pear-shaped diamonds indicating 3, 6 and 9 o’clock add infuse the scene with a sense of poetry. The 12 petals in titanium and satin-brushed white lacquer embrace a natural red ruby pistil, swept over by a pair of blue-tipped stainless steel hands delicately rounded by hand. The twin-layered corolla intensifies the depth effect of this eminently dainty dial.

The strap now appears clothed in velvet-touch blue alligator leather that feels like a second skin. Soft, noble, silky and timeless, velvet is synonymous with luxury, chic and good taste. This totally on-trend material is equally suited to contemporary and classical styles, adding a pleasing touch of sophistication and glamour. The elements linking it to the case have been elongated so as to gently embrace even the slimmest wrist.

Entirely in tune with the movement, the unmistakably feminine case made of gold and slate blue PVD-treated grade 5 titanium adopts a curvaceous profile. To soften its silhouette still further, the winding crown is cleverly concealed on the back of the top lugs, while the center of the inter-horn space is adorned with three rows of four diamonds.

In terms of its complications, Margot Velours features an ingenious mechanism that reproduces the unpredictability of nature. A simple press of the pusher at 2 o’clock brings the watch to life. With each press, a petal – sometimes a pair of petals, it is impossible to foresee – subtly disappears under the dial in a smooth action, perfectly depicting the delicate undressing of the flower. The eagerly-awaited answer appears at random in calligraphic letters (in French) on the dial at 4 o’clock: Un peu (a little) – beaucoup (a lot) – passionnément (passionately) – à la folie (madly) – pas du tout (not at all)?

At each press of the pusher, a distinct, crystalline chime resonates, audibly signaling the pace of the game. The striking mechanism is one of Manufacture Claret’s signature complications, blending technical mastery with sublime esthetics, and here its hammer is adorned with a prong-set ruby. A caseband window at 8 o’clock allows clear views of it vertically striking the cathedral gong above.

Finally, the reset pusher at 4 o’clock instantly makes all petals reappear around the pistil and turns the ‘sentiment’ display at 4 o’clock to an ellipsis (…). The petal display and its mechanism have been awarded a patent.

The display back reveals the automatic winding rotor, a delicately carved, flower-shaped carrousel of colors symbolizing sentiments of love, with a central cabochon concealing the rotor’s ball bearings. Each one of the eight resplendent triangular precious stones denotes a feeling – hope, passion, tenderness… Which one will line up with the red-lacquered heart when the flower halts its waltz?

Margot Velours blossoms in a 20-piece limited edition.

Technical details

Movement
Caliber: EMT17, automatic-winding
Diameter: 38.40 mm
Height: 9.76 mm
Number of components: 731
Number of jewels: 95
Power reserve: 72 hours
Two barrels
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Swiss lever Escapement

Functions
Hours and minutes
“He loves me… he loves me not” (“Effeuiller la marguerite” in French)
Symbolic ‘colour-feeling’ on the winding rotor

Features
12 “He loves me…he loves me not” petals to ‘pick off’
‘Sentiment’ displayed in window at 4 o’clock: un peu (a little), beaucoup (a lot), passionnément (passionately), à la folie (madly) and pas du tout (not at all)
Pusher at 2 o’clock ’picks off’ one or two petals while advancing the ‘Sentiment’ indicator by one sentiment
Striking chime at each action of the 2 o’clock pusher with a visible hammer at 8 o’clock
“He loves me… loves me not” reset pusher at 4 o’clock: all the petals instantly reappear around a pistil, while the ‘Sentiment’ displayed in the window at 4 o’clock turns to an ellipsis (…)

Case in White gold and slate blue PVD-treated grade 5 titanium, bead-set
64 diamonds, 4.60 carats
Dimensions: 42.50 x 14.52 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
Dial: Dark blue mother-of-pearl
White gold prong-set with pear-shaped diamonds
Hands: Steel with blued tips
Pushers: White gold
Strap: Blue alligator, velvet look
Stainless steel screws, set with diamonds
20-piece limited series
Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 198,000
Ref. MTR.EMT18.000-020

Christophe Claret signs a partnership with boxing champion Vasyl Lomachenko

Luxury Swiss watch manufacture Christophe Claret has announced its collaboration with Vasyl Lomachenko – winner of one Europe championship title, two Olympic gold medals and three World championship titles – and the forthcoming creation of a new watch.

Vasyl Lomachenko, nicknamed the “Picasso” of world boxing, achieves yet another masterful feat. In his Los Angeles fight against Englishman Anthony Crolla, Vasyl Lomachenko successfully defended his WBA and WBO lightweight belts by beating his opponent with a spectacular knockout in the fourth round.

The Ukrainian boxer has already won the title of Europe champion in Liverpool (2008) in the featherweight category, the title of double Olympic champion – in Beijin (2008) in the featherweight category and in London (2012) in the lightweight category – as well as three World titles in only 12 professional fights: in Chicago (2007) and in Milan (2009) in the featherweight category and in Baku (2011) in the lightweight category.

That same day, Christophe Claret met Vasyl Lomachenko in Los Angeles through Saïd Taghmaoui, a famous Franco-American actor who made his breakout in the film La Haine in 1996 and has been the Christophe Claret brand Ambassador since January 2019. The encounter gave rise to a collaboration between the watchmaker and the boxer that is soon to result in a timepiece combining their shared passions.

Precision, Rigorous Discipline, Patience, Speed, Elegance and Talent are the shared qualities demonstrated by these two Maestros in their respective arts.

This alliance is no coincidence. In 2013 already, Christophe Claret drew inspiration from the world of boxing based on a simple observation: the ringside boxing bell is one of the most recognizable sounds in sport, signaling the moment boxers go head to head in the ring.

A boxing bout is divided into rounds, punctuated by one-minute periods of rest, all announced by the ringside bell. So it’s only natural to mark the start of a chronograph with such a sound. This led to the creation of the Kantharos model, a mono-pusher chronograph with constant force escapement and cathedral-gong striking mechanism, equipped with an ingenious chiming system activated in each mode (start, stop, reset).

Christophe Claret Angelico – Tourbillon with Long Detent Escapement and Cable-Type Fusee

In 2019, Christophe Claret is celebrating a double anniversary: the 30th anniversary of his Manufacture and the 10th anniversary of his brand. The watchmaker is continuing to explore the technical territories of Fine Watchmaking and enriching his collection of traditional complication watches with a limited-edition anniversary model. For the first time within a wristwatch, the Angelico model combines a tourbillon with a long detent escapement and a cable-type fusee transmission system.

Writing a new chapter in the history of Fine Watchmaking, the Angelico model is a contemporary tribute to the quest for absolute precision embodied by the 18th century marine chronometers. For the very first time in a wristwatch, Christophe Claret has taken up the challenge of combining a tourbillon with a long detent escapement with a cable-type fusee transmission system. This mechanical feat broadening the horizons of traditional horology is complemented by an instant-jump dual-time display complete with day/night and 72-hour power-reserve indications.

Named after Italian Renaissance “painter of angels”, Fra Angelico, this timepiece celebrates the noble pedigree of the watchmaking art.

Successfully equipping a wristwatch with a tourbillon featuring a traditional long detent escapement, a mechanism originally designed to operate in a perfectly stabilized position, is an authentic challenge taken on by the watchmakers of the “Soleil d’or” Manufacture.

Regarded as the quintessence of chronometric precision, this type of detent escapement first appeared in the 18th century, at a time when watchmakers were competing to create a time-measuring instrument of maximum precision, serving to determine a ship’s exact geographical position at sea. Incorporated into marine chronometer mounted on gimbals, this mechanism demonstrated exemplary reliability in long-term navigation – its only weakness being extreme sensitivity to lateral impacts, which is incompatible with the all-important sturdiness required for wear on the wrist.

As a true chronometry purist, Christophe Claret has once again taken the most complex path by choosing to equip the Angelico watch with a long detent escapement. To prevent the detent from turning over, an anti-pivot cam, integral to the sprung balance, works in conjunction with the safety finger. This fabulous mechanism, whose reliability had already been demonstrated in the Maestoso watch, is fitted for the first time in a tourbillon.

To cope with the risks of over-banking, a flexible thrust bearing fitted on the wheel and connected to the balance absorbs any excess energy. Once again, the challenge is among those that only a rare few virtuoso watchmakers are capable of meeting.

Enthroned at the heart of the Angelico watch, the tourbillon performs its stately dance involving one full turn in six minutes, in order to reduce the impact of its inertia. Christophe Claret has focused on two materials renowned for their lightness: the carriage is made of titanium, and the bridges from aluminum (316AL). The choice of a large 16mm cage diameter provides ample scope to admire the beauty of the detent escapement, a rare mechanical sight exercising a powerful fascination.

Chronometric (precision timing) performance is an endless quest, as well as an ambition and a passion. All three of these forces drive the creation of each of the watches developed, designed and assembled since 2009 within the Manufacture Claret. In addition to the tourbillon with detent escapement unveiled at the heart of the Angelico model, it is also endowed with the constant force delivered by the cable-type fusee transmission mechanism linked to the double mainspring barrel.

Traditionally equipped with a chain, this device, developed to ensure a constant supply of energy to the movement, once again demonstrates Christophe Claret’s capacity for innovation. Instead of the chain, whose design is based on the alignment of multiple links, the watchmaker has made the unprecedented choice of connecting the double mainspring barrel to the fusee via a Dyneema nanofiber cable. There are two reasons for this. The first is to optimize efficiency by eliminating all the friction between links entailed by a traditional chain; and the second is to increase and precisely regulate the power reserve: the number of times the cable is wrapped around the fusee or the barrel is double that of a system equipped with a chain.

While super-thin at just 0.18 mm in diameter, meaning the equivalent of three hairs’ breadths, this cable is extremely resistant. By way of example, such a cable is strong enough to pull a weight of nearly 10 kilos. While such force is obviously not required to ensure the transmission of energy to the movement of the Angelico watch, the robustness of the cable is a real guarantee of reliability. Especially since, so as to avoid any risk of breakage, it is tied and then wrapped twice around the barrel or the fusee. Based on the self-locking principle used to ensure secure ship cargo stowage, this system guarantees perfect distribution of the force exerted on the cable. At the foot of the barrel fitted with two superimposed springs, designed to achieve optimal performance, the winding of the cable drives the 72-hour power reserve indication, while the “stop work” indication, placed on the fusee bridge, indicates the end of the barrel winding.

At the heart of the Angelico watch, the performance of the show staged by time is also measured by the readability of the indications. The two time zones are thus indicated via a jumping hour display appearing in counters at 5 and 7 o’clock, along with a day/night indication. To ensure an unobstructed view of the mechanism’s inherent beauty, the minutes are displayed by a peripheral hand adorned with a natural ruby on the red gold version, and a blue sapphire on the titanium version.

From an aesthetic point of view, the Angelico watch offers a fresh immersion into the beauty of mechanics. Topped by a domed crystal, the 45.50 mm 5N red gold or titanium case makes depth of field its best asset. While technical sophistication reigns supreme, the details are once again perfectly highlighted, as evidenced in the hand-chamfered Charles X bridges, as well as the escapement’s incabloc shock-absorbers concealed beneath a natural ruby or blue sapphire, Christophe Claret’s aesthetic signatures. The show continues through the sapphire crystal caseback, providing a chance to admire the instant-jump dual-time mechanism.

Available in two 10-piece limited editions in 5N red gold or titanium, Angelico embodies the perfect blend of traditional watchmaking and inventiveness that Christophe Claret has been brilliantly illustrating within his brand for ten years. To mark the occasion, the watchmaker is extending the warranty on all timepieces to five years.

Technical details

Movement
Caliber: DTC08, mechanical hand-wound
Dimensions: Diameter: 41.10 mm; Height: 14.20 mm (with time indication)
Number of components: 470
Number of jewels: 62
Barrels: Two parallel-mounted mainspring barrels
Power reserve: Above 72 hours
Escapement: Tourbillon with detent escapement and cable-type fusee
Balance-wheel oscillation frequency: 2.5 Hz (18,000 vph)

Functions
Time and instant-jump dual-time display with day/night indicator

Case
Diameter: 45.50 mm
Height: 17.45 mm
Water resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)

Versions

Reference: MTR.DTC08.000-010
Case: 5N red gold
Hand: 4N pink gold with a natural red ruby
Strap: black alligator leather
Limited series: 10
Price excluding VAT in Swiss francs: 238’000

Reference: MTR.DTC08.020-030
Case: grade 5 titanium
Hand: white gold with a natural blue sapphire
Strap: black alligator leather
Limited series: 10
Price excluding VAT in Swiss francs: 218’000

Christophe Claret Margot Velours Limited Edition

Christophe Claret devotes particular attention to women, offering them a full-fledged collection composed of complications exclusively crafted with them in mind. Building on the success achieved by the Margot watch in the 2014 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, Christophe Claret has dreamed up various precious and poetic combinations composing a whole new definition of refinement.

After naturally blue or pink-tinged mother-of-pearl gracing the dial and baguette-cut diamonds or snow-set brilliant-cut diamonds sparkling on the bezel and lugs, Margot now reveals a dark blue mother-of-pearl dial framed by grain setting on its bezel and lugs. This particular technique uses stones of an intermediate size compared with the two settings on the previous versions. Three pear-shaped diamonds indicating 3, 6 and 9 o’clock add infuse the scene with a sense of poetry.

The 12 petals in titanium and satin-brushed white lacquer embrace a natural pink sapphire pistil, swept over by a pair of blue-tipped stainless steel hands delicately rounded by hand. The twin-layered corolla intensifies the depth effect of this eminently dainty dial.

The strap now appears clothed in velvet-touch blue alligator leather that feels like a second skin. Soft, noble, silky and timeless, velvet is synonymous with luxury, chic and good taste. This totally on-trend material is equally suited to contemporary and classical styles, adding a pleasing touch of sophistication and glamour. The elements linking it to the case have been elongated so as to gently embrace even the slimmest wrist.

Entirely in tune with the movement, the unmistakably feminine case made of gold and slate blue PVD-treated grade 5 titanium adopts a curvaceous profile. To soften its silhouette still further, the winding crown is cleverly concealed on the back of the top lugs, while the center of the inter-horn space is adorned with three rows of four diamonds.

In terms of its complications, Margot Velours features an ingenious mechanism that reproduces the unpredictability of nature. A simple press of the pusher at 2 o’clock brings the watch to life. With each press, a petal – sometimes a pair of petals, it is impossible to foresee – subtly disappears under the dial in a smooth action, perfectly depicting the delicate undressing of the flower. The eagerly-awaited answer appears at random in calligraphic letters (in French) on the dial at 4 o’clock: Un peu (a little) – beaucoup (a lot) – passionnément (passionately) – à la folie (madly) – pas du tout (not at all)?

At each press of the pusher, a distinct, crystalline chime resonates, audibly signaling the pace of the game. The striking mechanism is one of Manufacture Claret’s signature complications, blending technical mastery with sublime esthetics, and here its hammer is adorned with a prong-set ruby. A caseband window at 8 o’clock allows clear views of it vertically striking the cathedral gong above.

Finally, the reset pusher at 4 o’clock instantly makes all petals reappear around the pistil and turns the ‘sentiment’ display at 4 o’clock to an ellipsis (…). The petal display and its mechanism have been awarded a patent.

The display back reveals the automatic winding rotor, a delicately carved, flower-shaped carrousel of colors symbolizing sentiments of love, with a central cabochon concealing the rotor’s ball bearings. Each one of the eight resplendent triangular precious stones denotes a feeling – hope, passion, tenderness… Which one will line up with the red-lacquered heart when the flower halts its waltz?

Margot Velours blossoms in a 20-piece limited edition.

Technical details

Ref. MTR.EMT18.000-020

Movement
Caliber EMT17, automatic-winding
Diameter: 38.40 mm
Height: 9.76 mm
Number of components: 731
Number of jewels: 95
Power reserve: 72 hours; Two barrels
Escapement: Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph); Swiss lever

Functions
Hours and minutes
“He loves me… he loves me not” (“Effeuiller la marguerite” in French)
Symbolic ‘colour-feeling’ on the winding rotor

Features
12 “He loves me…he loves me not” petals to ‘pick off’
‘Sentiment’ displayed in window at 4 o’clock: un peu (a little), beaucoup (a lot), passionnément (passionately), à la folie (madly) and pas du tout (not at all)
Pusher at 2 o’clock ’picks off’ one or two petals while advancing the ‘Sentiment’ indicator by one sentiment
Striking chime at each action of the 2 o’clock pusher with a visible hammer at 8 o’clock
“He loves me… loves me not” reset pusher at 4 o’clock: all the petals instantly reappear around a pistil, while the ‘Sentiment’ displayed in the window at 4 o’clock turns to an ellipsis (…)

Case
Dimensions: 42.50 x 14.52 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
Case: White gold and slate blue PVD-treated grade 5 titanium, bead-set 64 diamonds, 4.60 carats
Dial: Dark blue mother-of-pearl; White gold prong-set with pear-shaped diamonds
Hands: Steel with blued tips
Pushers: White gold
Strap: Blue alligator, velvet look
Stainless steel screws, set with diamonds
20-piece limited series

Price
Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 198,000

Christophe Claret

Based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, the Manufacture Christophe Claret produces most complicated and playful mechanical timepieces. This world renowned watch manufacture was established by master watch maker Christophe Claret in 1989.

The Collections
Christophe Claret boasts a unique, comprehensive expertise and an exclusive collection that pushes back the boundaries of possibility and offers brand new ways to display time. This expertise, which is nourished by a respect for tradition and the freedom to create, is crystallized into three lines of timepieces: The Traditional Complications collection features unique pieces and exceptional models that reinvent time measurement; the Extreme Complications collection is dedicated to creations as audacious as they are unconventional; while the Interactive Gaming Complications collection serves to remind us that time can also be recreational.

  • Traditional Complication Watches:  Maestoso, Kantharos, Soprano,  Adagio etc..
  • Extreme Complication Watches:  The X-TREM-1, DualTow etc..
  • Casino Game Watches: Poker, Baccara, Blackjack etc…
  • Ladies’ Complications Watch Line: Margot, Marguerite etc…

About Christophe Claret, the Master watchmaker
Christophe Claret was born in Lyon, France in 1962. Graduating from the Geneva School of Watchmaking, he learnt his craft alongside Roger Dubuis, before opening his own vintage restoration workshop in the family home.

Although Christophe Claret’s destiny appeared to have been ordained, he had to wait until 1987 to achieve the recognition of his peers: Rolf Schnyder, the owner of the brand Ulysse Nardin, was sufficiently impressed by a quarter repeater movement with an automaton designed by Christophe Claret that he ordered twenty minute repeater calibers with San Marco jacquemarts at the Baselworld international watch fair.

Capitalizing on this momentum, in 1989 Mr Claret founded the Claret Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, the cradle of the world’s watchmaking industry. The manufacture soon established itself in the big league, thanks to its expertise in creating complicated movements.

Christophe Claret, the Master watchmaker and founder of ‘Manufacture Claret’

Working behind the scenes for the most prestigious brands, Mr Claret also created special models commissioned by collectors and bearing his own name. But it wasn’t until 2009, and the launch of the DualTow, that the public at large finally discovered the talent of this exceptional watchmaker, already acclaimed by his peers. The Christophe Claret brand now belongs to the exclusive circle of independent watch manufacturers capable of mastering the entire production process of Haute Horlogerie watches – from the original idea through to final regulation.

“In watchmaking, everything has already been done, and everything has yet to be invented”: whether a creed or a ritual, the Christophe Claret formula is evident at every stage of the design process within the manufacture’s atelier. The watchmaker takes his inspiration from tradition and heritage to create exceptional and surprising creations. His watches are at the cutting edge of technology and innovation, offering new forms of expression for the most classic of grand complications. Sometimes playful, often spectacular, the timepieces are infused with the emotion of discovery, discipline and intuition that turn a watchmaker into an artist.

There was nothing to suggest that the young Christophe Claret would eventually make the cycle of time his own. It was only after a chance visit to a watchmaker-restorer at the age of 14 that the possibility presented itself. From that point on, the mechanics of time would grow to become his passion. At just 19 years of age, he graduated from the Geneva Watchmaking School, continuing his education with the master-watchmaker Roger Dubuis who, in taking him under his wing, passed on the secrets of restoration and the mysteries of complex horological mechanisms.

Upon returning to his native city of Lyon, Christophe Claret set up his first horological workshop in the family home. He decided to specialize in restoring antique timepieces, perfecting his finishing techniques and crafting open-work or “skeletonized” watches.

1987 was a year of revelation: during his first visit to the Baselworld international watch fair, Christophe Claret met a man who would alter the course of his life. Rolf Schnyder, a Swiss industrialist who had just acquired the Ulysse Nardin brand, placed an order with Mr Claret for twenty minute repeater movements with San Marco jacquemarts. It provided the impetus he needed and two years later Mr Claret founded his first company, which was soon followed by another, ‘Manufacture Claret’.

Manufacture Christophe Claret
Within a decade, the name Christophe Claret became a benchmark in the field of complicated movements. Following on from Ulysse Nardin, seventeen other prestigious customers, including Franck Muller, deGrisogono, Girard-Perregaux, Jean Dunand and Harry Winston, turned to him to develop their most complex calibers. Christophe Claret therefore decided to establish his company within a setting worthy of his reputation and his ambitions.

In 1999, Christophe Claret acquired the Manoir du Soleil d’Or, a venerable mansion on the hills overlooking the nearby town of Le Locle, a stone’s throw from the Musée d’Horlogerie des Monts. There he set up his workshops, breathing new life into the residence formerly owned by the watchmaker Urban Jürgensen.

Manufacture Christophe Claret

From 2002 to 2008, Manufacture Claret expanded its workshops by a further 2000 m2. Today, operating at the cutting edge of technology and expertise, it employs almost a hundred highly-qualified experts in over thirty separate disciplines.

While continuing to design exceptional movements for the most prestigious brands, Christophe Claret also produces watches bearing his own name, often one-of-a-kind creations commissioned by collectors won over by Mr Claret’s superlative horological mastery. Initially a low-key activity, his Christophe Claret branded pieces gained a higher profile in 2009 when he created the DualTow to celebrate the Manufacture’s 20th anniversary. This mechanical distillation of all of the watchmaker’s talent unlocked a freedom to create which resulted in highly complex, exclusive pieces.

Christophe Claret DualTow

The Christophe Claret brand now belongs to the extremely exclusive circle of independent Haute Horlogerie brands that design, develop and produce their watches entirely in-house. To gain recognition in the world of Haute Horlogerie is something that very few watchmakers can now expect to accomplish. In order to succeed, Christophe Claret constantly reviews the manufacture’s quality criteria. Respect for watchmaking traditions and time-honoured savoir-faire go hand in hand with a quest for innovation and excellence.

Because he understands that environment influences creativity and quality, Christophe Claret has always made sure that his staff enjoy superior working conditions. The offices and workshops are regularly refurbished, and the organization of work is fine-tuned to encourage communication and cooperation. Staff benefit from ultra-modern equipment in a beautifully tranquil setting.

Every year, Christophe Claret invests in new machines and tools, often designing his own machines under the name of Christophe Claret Engineering. The Flashcut Laser cutting machine designed by the company offers as yet unrivaled cutting accuracy and speed. The simultaneous 16-axis CNC, which took three years to design and develop, is used to produce the manufacture’s most complex mainplates and cases.

CHRISTOPHE CLARET KANTHAROS

New models start their life in the design department. Movement design engineers, watch exterior design engineers, designers and computer graphics specialists all give shape and color to the exceptional complications conceived by Christophe Claret. Then it’s over to the watchmaking ateliers. The hundreds of components that make up the movements are painstakingly produced by the very finest craftsmen, assisted by state-of-the-art technology. CNC operators, bar turners, electroplaters, case finishers and heat treatment specialists perform the ultra-precise movements that characterize this extremely demanding discipline.

Alongside the machines, the nimble fingers of the craftsmen and watchmakers practice their discipline like an art belonging to a bygone era, yet paradoxically more alive today than ever. Haute Horlogerie is one of the few sectors that could not have survived without these extremely specialized skills, finely honed and often drawing on traditional craftsmanship.

A large part of the work is carried out exclusively by hand. Specialists in anglage, trimming, drawing-out and decoration draw on years of experience often handed down from generation to generation. The guilloché, engraving and enameling work is entrusted to only the very finest craftsmen in Switzerland. Finally, the master watchmakers of the manufacture assemble each and every part of the movement, from A to Z.

All of the components then undergo stringent testing in the “TCR” Testing, Certification and Reliability) atelier, where they receive their certificate of production. Chiming watches are subject to particular scrutiny: to guarantee a perfect melody, the quality of the gongs, the frequency and the duration of the notes and their intervals are all computer-tested. Each piece then undergoes a final validation by Christophe Claret himself.

Official Website:  https://www.christopheclaret.com/en/

Christophe Claret Maestro Mamba Limited Edition

In this highly exclusive edition of the Maestro timepiece, Christophe Claret placed a meticulously hand-engraved sculpture of a dangerous snake that guards the complex horological movement. The guard is none other than mamba, one of the world’s most aggressive and deadliest snakes.

Wrapped around the movement, its undulating hand-engraved body creates a powerful contrast between the tangy green brilliancy of its scales and the matt black shade of the movement. Surging from the intricacies of the movement, between the hours and minutes hands, the MEMO function indicator and the sprung balance, the Mamba defies all challengers with its piercing eyes.

The watch come with a strap in authentic green Mamba skin sourced from Mozambique, where the Mamba was hunted on land belonging to the owner of the largest tsavorite mine.

Following the model unveiled in 2017 and infusing a new dynamic into the Tradition collection, the Maestro Mamba appeals through both its shape and its proportions, including the pure and powerful lines of its 42 mm black PVD-treated titanium case topped by an impressive sapphire crystal dome. The Maestro offers a spectacular view of the movement and the snake’s sinuous body, which may be admired from every angle and along every sleek scale.

The overall construction is revealed through a multi-dimensional architecture. Like all timepieces by Christophe Claret, the Maestro showcases a wealth of details mingling technical and aesthetic elements in an exceptionally coherent manner. Brand enthusiasts will recognize the watchmaker’s inimitable touch in the famous Charles X stepped and skeletonized bridges – with 26 interior angles – that have become a signature of the Maison. The skeleton-working of the bridge supporting the escapement represents a clever blend of classicism and modernity that affords a chance to appreciate all its subtle features.

Majestically positioned at 12 o’clock, two series-coupled barrels ensure optimal efficiency. Here too, the bridges are skeletonized to provide an exemplary view of the blade spring of the first barrel and thus enable the wearer of the watch to gauge the state of the seven-day power reserve.

The patented large date display at 5 o’clock, composed of two cones – one for the tens on the upper part and the second for the units – performs a semi-instantaneous jump between midnight and twenty past midnight. As if to echo the 3D effect of this voluminous date display, the Maestro’s characteristic MEMO function appears between 3 and 4 o’clock.

The MEMO is an ingenious mechanical reminder intended for absent-minded individuals as well as fans of technical gadgets. Whatever daily objective the owner of the Maestro has set himself, the MEMO is there to remind him of his commitments. In the initial position, meaning when the owner must do something, a tsavorite appears at 6 o’clock on the side face of the MEMO, like the gem set at its top. Once the objective has been met, a simple press on the pusher at 2 o’clock pivots the MEMO function, which will display a diamond on its side face at 6 o’clock, instead of the tsavorite. The MEMO will return to its initial position each night in a twenty-minute process driven by a semi-instantaneous jump system.

The highly complex Maestro watches come in two new black PVD-treated titanium versions respectively fitted with green Mamba and orange Pantherophis snakeskin straps. These two 28-piece limited editions each retail at CHF 96,000.

Technical details
Model: Maestro Mamba

Movement
Caliber: DMC16, mechanical hand-wound
Diameter: 36.25 mm
Thickness: 10.50 mm (without the hands)
Number of components: 346
Number of jewels: 33
Power reserve: 7 days (approx. 168 hours)

Escapement
– Swiss lever escapement
– Balance-wheel with countersunk screws
– Balance-wheel oscillation frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)

Aesthetic features
– Stepped and skeletonized Charles X style bridges
– Skeletonized barrel
-26 interior angles

Functions
Pointer-type display of the hours and minutes
Pyramid-shaped large date display at 5 o’clock, with tens on the upper cone and units on the lower cone
MEMO function between 3 and 4 o’clock: cone shape adorned with a tsavorite (for the Mamba version) or a sapphire (for the Pantherophis version) and a diamond serving to remind the wearer of a commitment

Case
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 16.06 mm
Water resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)

References
Reference: MTR.DMC16.230-258 MAMBA

  • Case: Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium
  • Hands: Black chrome-plated, green-lacquered sapphire with Super-LumiNova®
  • Snake: 4N pink gold, SpectraCoatTM green
  • Crown: Black PVD-treated stainless steel, with cabochon-cut tsavorite
  • Strap: Green Mamba snakeskin
  • Limited series: 28
  • Price excluding tax in Swiss francs: CHF 96,000.-

Reference: MTR.DMC16.260-288 PANTHEROPHIS

  • Case: Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium
  • Hands: Black chrome-plated, orange-lacquered sapphire with Super-LumiNova®
  • Snake: 4N pink gold, hand-painted (orange)
  • Crown: Black PVD-treated stainless steel, with cabochon-cut orange sapphire
  • Strap: Orange Pantherophis snakeskin
  • Limited series: 28
  • Price excluding tax in Swiss francs: CHF 96,000.-

 

Christophe Claret Marguerite 37MM

Swiss Independent luxury watch maker Christophe Claret presents two new versions of its Marguerite watch. Featuring a daintier size, these new creations preserve the magic of the original Marguerite watch: the revelation of a secret message that can be personalized at will.

Christophe Claret is well aware that times are changing and that trends are shifting accordingly. It has thus decided to trim down the original silhouette of the Marguerite watch, whose diameter has thus been reduced from 42.50 mm to 36.90 mm, while maintaining both its inherent refinement and its singular nature. This new jewelry watch is currently available in two versions. One is in 5N red gold set with champagne-toned diamonds and an aubergine strap; while the other is an even precious version set with diamonds and flaunting a flaming red strap.

Its meticulously crafted dial proudly features two graceful butterflies in Super-LumiNova®, flit around a daisy. The darker one, symbolizing the female, is perched on a daisy petal that rotates every hour. Meanwhile, the lighter one, embodying the male, indicates the minutes. Sitting lightly atop a stem attached to the precious pistil, it literally flutters around the white mother-of-pearl dial.

In addition to the Arabic numerals at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, the dial presents a second display. One press on the pusher at 2 o’clock makes the numbers disappear to reveal the phrase: “I LOVE YOU”. This message can be personalized. The watch can display any message requested by the owner, in the desired language, with a limited number of characters. In developing this optical illusion game, Christophe Claret drew inspiration from the famous “Wow!!” magic trick, which has never before been incorporated into a watch. The changeover of the two dials is achieved by superimposing two disks: the metallized transparent sapphire upper disk bearing a mosaic of transparent squares rotates over the fixed mother-of-pearl lower disk overlaid with another pad-printed varnished mosaic incorporating the text and the numerals. Releasing the pusher makes the hour display reappear instantly.

The difficulty for the Christophe Claret team lay in ensuring the message remained legible despite the smaller diameter, while also safeguarding the pleasing aesthetic.

The Marguerite watch is equipped with a self-winding Manufacture movement whose double barrel ensures an impressive 72-hour power reserve. The sapphire caseback provides an opportunity to admire the movement’s oscillating weight sculpted like a daisy and set with eight precious stones (4 rubies and 4 emeralds). At will, the owner can indulge in the “He loves me… he loves me not” game, the simplified English version of daisy petals, that typically feminine distraction invented in the Middle Ages. In order to play, the watch must be placed in a horizontal position and accompanied by one or two undulating movements. The oscillating weight then turns for a few seconds prior to standing still. The stone closest to the red-lacquered heart provides the response – an emerald with the indication “yes” or a ruby with the indication “no” in the center.

In the center of the oscillating weight, a flower-shaped circular satin-brushed and diamond-polished element serves to conceal the ball-bearing mechanism. This motif is echoed by the petal-like fluted motif adorning crown, as well as the flower-shaped screws securing the strap. A watch to be loved passionately in all versions: “champagne” set aubergine or full-set red, each available in 30-piece limited editions.

Technical specifications
Movement
Caliber MT113, self-winding
Diameter: 30.10 mm
Thickness: 9.05 mm (with hands)
Number of components: 245
Number of jewels: 36
Barrels:  Two barrels
Power reserve: 72 hours
Escapement:  
-Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
-Swiss lever

Functions
– Hours and minutes are indicated by two butterflies flying around the dial: the first butterfly perched on the daisy indicate the hours, while the second butterfly on a stem shows the minutes
– Dual display dial (time or text)
– “He loves me… he loves me not” game on the oscillating weight

Marguerite 37MM Aubergine version (MTR.MT113.040-070)

Case
Dimensions: Ø36.90 x 11.53 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
A total of 98 diamonds (0.51 carats): bezel set with 73 diamonds, lug at 6 o’clock set with 17 diamonds and lug at 12 o’clock set with 8 diamonds

Dial
Dual display dial: the time with 3, 6, 9 visible around the dial, or text that reads, “I LOVE YOU”
Metallized transparent sapphire upper disk bearing a mosaic of squares
Fixed white mother-of-pearl lower disk overlaid with a pad-printed purple varnish

Time display
The time is shown by two butterflies in anthracite gray PVD and dark or light orange Super-LumiNova®
Daisy pistil in natural purple amethyst
Twelve petals in 4N pink gold, lacquered in graded shades ranging from 5N red gold to matt white

Back
“He loves me… he loves me not” game: when the oscillating weight stops, the stone that is nearest to the red heart indicates the answer (emerald with “yes” indication or ruby with “no” indication)

Crown
5N red gold with 5N red gold cabochon set with a natural purple amethyst

Strap
Aubergine-colored alligator leather
Clasp: 5N red gold

Edition
30-piece limited edition

Retail Price
Price in Swiss francs (excluding VAT): Swiss francs 65’000

Marguerite 37MM Red version (MTR.MT113.000-030)

Case
Dimensions: Ø36.90 x 11.53 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
A total of 271 diamonds (1.65 carats): bezel set with 216 diamonds, lug at 6 o’clock set with 23 diamonds and lug at 12 o’clock set with 32 diamonds

Dial
Dual display dial: the time with 3, 6, 9 visible around the dial, or a text that reads, “I LOVE YOU”
Metallized transparent sapphire upper disk bearing a mosaic of squares
Fixed white mother-of-pearl lower disk overlaid with a pad-printed black varnish

Time display
The time is shown by two butterflies in anthracite gray PVD and dark or light orange Super-LumiNova®
Daisy pistil in ruby
Twelve petals in 4N pink gold, set with 209 diamonds

Back
“He loves me… he loves me not” game: when the oscillating weight stops, the stone that is nearest to the red heart indicates the answer (emerald with “yes” indication or ruby with “no” indication)

Crown
5N red gold with 5N red gold cabochon set with a ruby

Strap
Red alligator leather
Clasp: 5N red gold

Edition
30-piece limited edition

Retail Price
Price in Swiss francs (excluding VAT): Swiss francs 83’000

Christophe Claret Magicafiore Only Watch

For the third consecutive year, Christophe Claret is donating a timepiece to Only Watch for its 7th edition: Magicafiore, an exceptional and one-of-a-kind ladies’ watch. Inspired by the Marguerite watch that is part of the collection, Magicafiore is a unique floral marvel stemming from a blend of fine craftsmanship and aesthetic creativity.

At the heart of this watchmaking fable, a 3D depiction of the cherry blossom revisited by Christophe Claret gives pride of place to artistic crafts. To ensure the closest possible resemblance to the actual flower, each petal is first manually sculpted and coated with white lacquer, making each of them a truly unique element. The blue enameled center of the flower features a pistil topped with a blue sapphire and stamens represented by 28 emeralds, each topped with a white gold rod bent and adjusted by hand. Christophe Claret invites two hand-engraved and green lacquered dragonflies, featuring wings enhanced by sky blue Super-LumiNova®, to provide a joyful escort for the passing of time. One is perched on a flower petal that rotates every hour. The other one, fitted at the end of a stem attached to the center of the flower, literally flutters around the white mother-of-pearl dial, thereby playing the role of minutes hand. The white gold case is adorned with 59 blue sapphires and 15 marquise-cut emeralds symbolizing the leaves of the cherry tree. The unique green and blue setting of the case, like central stones, demonstrates the particular attention that Christophe Claret devotes to aesthetics.

The ultimate romantic watch, Magicafiore turns loving passion into the stuff of intimate daydreams. In addition to the Arabic numerals at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, the dial presents a second display. One press on the pusher at 2 o’clock makes the numbers disappear to reveal the phrase specially created for Only Watch: “Pour l’amour de la vie” (For the love of life). This message can be personalized via a configurator on the brand website. The watch can display any message requested by the owner, in the desired language, with a limited number of characters. In developing this optical illusion game, Christophe Claret drew inspiration from the famous “Wow!!” magic trick, which has never before been incorporated into a watch. The changeover of the two dials is achieved by superimposing two disks: the metallized transparent sapphire upper disk bearing a mosaic of transparent squares rotates over the fixed mother-of-pearl lower disk overlaid with another pad-printed blue varnished mosaic incorporating the text and the numerals. Releasing the pusher makes the hour display reappear instantly.

The sapphire caseback provides an opportunity to admire the movement’s oscillating weight sculpted like a flower and set with eight precious stones (4 emeralds and 4 blue sapphires). At will, the owner can indulge in the “He loves me… he loves me not” game, the simplified English version of daisy petals, that typically feminine distraction invented in the Middle Ages. In order to play, the watch must be placed in a horizontal position and accompanied by one or two undulating movements. The oscillating weight then turns for a few seconds prior to standing still. The stone  closest to the red-lacquered heart provides the response : an emerald with the indication “yes” or a blue sapphire with the indication “no” in the center.

A great fan of detail, Christophe Claret includes a great many references to the delicacy of flowers. In the center of the oscillating weight, a flower-shaped circular satin-brushed and diamond-polished element serves to conceal the ball-bearing mechanism. This motif is echoed by the petal-like fluted motif adorning crown, as well as the flower-shaped screws securing the strap.

With more than 25 million Euros raised since 2005, Only Watch, under the patronage of HSH Prince Albert of Monaco and at the initiative of Luc Pettavino, President of the Monaco Association against Muscular Dystrophy, is organizing its 7th edition. The auction will be held for the second year running in Geneva, on Saturday November 11th 2017. Prior to that, from September 27th to 30th 2017, the Monaco Yacht Show will host the first stage of a promotional world tour of the collection. The funds collected will be entirely donated to scientific and medical research on neuromuscular diseases in general and on Duchenne muscular dystrophy in particular.

Technical details
Movement
Caliber MT115, self-winding
Diameter: 35.70 mm
Thickness: 11.72 mm (with hands)
Number of components: 245
Number of jewels: 36
Barrels: Two barrels
Power reserve: 72 hours
Escapement:    Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph); Swiss lever

Functions
Hours and minutes are indicated by two dragonflies: the first perched on a flower petal indicates the hours; the second on a stem indicates the minutes
Dual display dial (time or text)
“He loves me… he loves me not” game incorporated into the self-winding rotor visible through the display back

Case
Dimensions: Ø42.50 x 14.45 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
White gold case, set with 59 blue sapphires and 15 marquise-cut emeralds

Dial
Double-display dial: indication of the time “3, 6, 9” or a text
The change between the two displays is done via a pusher at 2 o’clock, which rotates the metallized transparent sapphire upper disk bearing a mosaic of transparent squares across a 1.5° angle over a fixed white mother-of-pearl lower disk with blue transfers.

Time display
Hours are indicated by a green lacquered dragonfly with sky blue Super-LumiNova® wings, perched on a rotating flower petal. Minutes are indicated by a second dragonfly perched on a stem. This stem is an integral part of the blue enameled flower center
Ten white lacquered petals

Back
“He loves me… he loves me not” game: when the winding rotor stops, the stone that is nearest to the red lacquered heart indicates the answer: an emerald with the indication “yes” or a blue sapphire with the indication “no” in the center.

Crown
White gold, featuring a cabochon set with a blue sapphire

Strap
Blue alligator leather
Clasp: White gold

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 StingHD Limited Edition

Unveiled in 2012 and since interpreted through a variety of limited editions, the X-TREM-1 series is one of the best sellers from Christophe Claret manufacture. This year, the watchmaker joins forces with American lifestyle brand StingHD and presenting a new variation of this watch in an 8-piece limited edition. Like the original X-TREM-1, this new timepiece combines an inclined flying tourbillon with retrograde hours and minutes display system based on magnetic fields. The new X-TREM-1 – StingHD comes dressed in a black PVD treated titanium case, a skull on the tourbillon carriage, and a stingray leather or personalized strap. In an additional spirited touch, breathing on the sapphire crystal reveals a skull motif.

Based in New York, StingHD is trendsetter specializing in the production of accessories and high-end jewelry in leather and other materials.

The X-TREM-1 has always been an anti-conformist by nature, starting with the innovative technical refinement of its retrograde hours and minutes display. For the first time in the field of mechanical watch making, the X-TREM-1 timepiece makes use of a magnetic field – the arch enemy of horological mechanisms – into the heart of a watch.

It made possible with a system where two small steel spheres – hollowed to make them lighter and encased within two sapphire tubes placed to the right and left of the caseband – are controlled by precision magnetic fields generated by two miniature magnets moved by cables. The cables are incredibly flexible, made from hundreds of Dyneema nanofibers all contained within an ultra-high-strength polyethylene gel, capable of withstanding tensile forces of up to a kilo. The entire thread is thinner than a human hair (4 hundredths of a mm in diameter). The resistance of the thread has been tested in the Manufacture Claret on an accelerated-wear simulator corresponding to six years of operation. The spheres have no mechanical connection with the movement, with each one floating inside the two tubes and creating outstanding horological magic. This technology was developed with the School of Business and Engineering Vaud (HEIG-VD) in Yverdon-les-Bains, and a team headed by Professor Besson.

The entire construction and finishing of this timepiece meets the extreme demands systematically imposed by Christophe Claret. Ultra-light titanium was used for the three-dimensional curvex mainplate and the bridges. The flying tourbillon is fitted with double ceramic bearings to enhance its shock-resistance. It is inclined at a 30-degree angle in order to make it even more clearly visible to the wearer. The hand-wound watch draws its energy from two barrels enabling the use of a sophisticated display without disturbing the rate of the tourbillon, and thus the accuracy of the watch. The first barrel is reserved for the tourbillon, the second for the hours and minutes.

The model boasts a large inclined tourbillon, majestically placed at 6 o’clock and adorned with a black chrome-plated aluminum skull designed by StingHD. To create this hypnotically fascinating sight by incorporating the ruby-eyed skull within the tourbillon required the creation of a new tourbillon cage – a technical development accentuated by the colossal case of the X-TREM-1 – StingHD. Like a high-powered machine perched on the wrist, the imposing titanium rectangle exudes a particularly potent appeal thanks to a remarkable black PVD treatment. The pure sapphire tubes previously framing the case of the X-TREM-1 and housing the steel hours and minutes spheres have been replaced by black PVD-treated stainless steel ring-bound tubes – thereby creating a resolutely technical look echoed by red lacquered numerals. Further, Christophe Claret has endowed the sapphire crystal with a special treatment that reveals a toothy skull when breathed upon.

This model comes with two straps designed by StingHD: one in black stingray leather, and the other which can be personalized by its owner. In addition, the presentation box also includes a matching, handcrafted bracelet adorned with a black diamond encrusted skull with ruby eyes.

Technical details
Model: X-TREM-1 – STING HD

Movement
Caliber: FLY11 – mechanical, hand-wound movement
Dimensions: 26.6 x 46.4 x 11.94 mm
Number of components: 432
Number of jewels: 66
Power reserve:  50+ hours
Dual barrels: one for the movement gear train, one for the time indications
Display-regulation escapement: The tourbillon movement and the time indication gear trains each have their own independent energy supply to optimize power distribution and duration

Tourbillon  
Swiss lever
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
Tourbillon rotates once every 60 seconds
Flying tourbillon inclined at 30° supported by a double ceramic bearing, with cone-shaped pinion transmission
Black chrome-plated aluminum skull with natural red ruby eyes

Functions 
Mystery hours and minutes displayed with indications provided by hollowed steel spheres moving 23 mm inside two cylindrical sapphire tubes. The metal spheres are driven by magnetic carriages following a thread.
Seconds displayed on the tourbillon cage
Movement state-of-wind indication
Fast time adjustment is via an integrated pusher on the caseband at 12 o’clock

Mainplate
Curvex with sides inclined at a 30° angle
Mainplate and bridges in bead-blasted titanium
Open-worked ratchet and wheel

Distinctive features
Use of precisely-shaped magnetic fields in a mechanical movement
No mechanical connection between the indications and the movement
Winding and time-setting via lift-out rotating “bows” on caseback

Case
Rectangular with curvex profile
Dimensions: 40.80 x 56.80 x 15 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
Material: Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium with red Super-LumiNova lines  on the sides and red lacquered numerals
Cylindrical ring-bound tubes in stainless steel, black PVD treatment
A skull appears on the sapphire crystal when breathed upon

Spheres
Stainless steel

Strap
Two watch straps supplied, one in black stingray leather strap and  the other personalized
One complimentary matching, handcrafted bracelet adorned  with a black diamond encrusted skull with ruby eyes

Edition
8-piece limited series

Retail Price
Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 278’000

Christophe Claret Maestro

Christophe Claret’s SIHH 2017 novelty, the new Maestro is a fresh and youthful watch that showcases an original take on the horological creativity of the world renowned Master-watchmaker. Its glass dome provides a striking, almost dizzying view of the movement architecture and the famous Charles X bridges. Endowed with a seven-day power reserve, a cone-shaped large date display and a 3D MEMO function, Maestro asserts itself as the first Haute Complication watch by Christophe Claret with a CHF 68,000 price tag.

The 42mm case – the smallest diameter in the Christophe Claret collections – in grade 5 titanium or 5N pink gold asserts its style with a curvex shape that accentuates its trim design. The choice of a glass dome to serve as a bezel provides a whole new perspective on the movement. The airy and graphic architecture – reinforced by the inner bezel ring with its matt and polished finishing, as well as Christophe Claret’s characteristic two-tone, bi-material hands – is truly striking.

In line with previous models in the Traditional collection, Christophe Claret has lavished great care on every detail and focused on ensuring an ideal match between technical and aesthetic aspects. The visual journey begins with the famous Charles X style stepped and skeletonized bridges that have become a signature of the Maison through its various collections. The skeleton-working of the bridge supporting the escapement represents a clever blend of classicism and modernity that affords a chance to appreciate all its subtle features. The balance-wheel with countersunk screws has been entirely developed and produced in-house. Expressing a permanent concern for details, a natural ruby or a natural sapphire, depending on the version, adorns this assembly in order to conceal the shock-absorbing system.

The visual adventure through the intricacies of the movement continues with two series-coupled barrels ensuring optimal efficiency and majestically positioned at 12 o’clock. Here too, the bridges are skeletonized to provide an exemplary view of the blade spring of the first barrel and thus enable the wearer of the watch to gauge the state of the seven-day power reserve.

Christophe Claret expresses his creative audacity through original displays running counter to traditional design codes. In this masterpiece, he has cleverly placed a unique, large date indication at 5 o’clock. Composed of two cone-shaped aluminum disks, one for the tens on the upper part and the second for the units, this patented large date display performs a semi-instantaneous jump between midnight and twenty past midnight. Lending the perfect finishing touch, its top is set with a natural ruby or a natural sapphire.

The space between 3 and 4 o’clock houses another cone shape – also topped with a sapphire or ruby which offers a brand-new playful function: MEMO, an ingenious mechanical reminder. Whatever daily objective the owner of the Maestro has set himself, the MEMO adorned with a sapphire or ruby and a diamond – depending on the version – is there to remind him of his commitment. Once the objective has been met, a simple press on the pusher pivots the MEMO function, which will return to its initial position each night in a twenty-minute process driven by a semi-instantaneous jump system.

Hand-finished according to the noblest Haute Horlogerie traditions, the Maestro reveals a level of finishing that few watch manufacturers can claim to master, such as the stepped Charles X style bridges featuring 26 interior angles. A sapphire crystal pane fitted on the back of the watch provides a chance to admire the meticulous movement decorations.

Maestro is available in 5N pink gold or grade 5 titanium and both versions are issued in 88-piece limited editions.

Technical specifications

Movement

Caliber DMC16, mechanical hand-wound
Diameter: 36.25 mm
Thickness: 10.50 mm (without the hands)
Number of components: 342
Number of jewels: 33
Power reserve: 7 days (approx. 168 hours)

Escapement     
– Swiss lever escapement
– Balance-wheel with countersunk screws
– Balance-wheel oscillation frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)

Functions
– Pointer-type display of the hours and minutes
– Pyramid-shaped large date display at 5 o’clock, with tens on the upper disk and units on the lower disk
– MEMO function between 3 and 4 o’clock: cone shape adorned with a sapphire or ruby and a diamond serving to remind the wearer of a commitment

Aesthetic features
– Stepped and skeletonized Charles X style bridges
– Skeletonized barrel and ratchet-wheel

Case
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 16.06 mm
Water resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)

Reference:  MTR.DMC16.100-188
Case: Grade 5 titanium
Hands: PVD-treated anthracite gray and blue anodized aluminum with Super-Luminova
Crown: Stainless steel
Strap: Black alligator leather with black stitching
Limited series: 88
Price excluding tax in Swiss francs: CHF 68,000.-

Reference:  MTR.DMC16.000-088
Case: 5N pink gold
Hands: PVD-treated anthracite gray and red anodized aluminum with Super-Luminova
Crown: 5N pink gold
Strap: Black alligator leather with black stitching
Limited series: 88
Price excluding tax in Swiss francs: CHF 76,000.-

Christophe Claret Marguerite New Model

Unveiled in 2015, the Christophe Claret Marguerite watch, is already available in five different white gold or 5N red gold versions adorned with “snowflake” or “champagne” setting and featuring vivid shades of blue, red and green depending on the version.

In the new avatar, Marguerite is clothed in diamonds, more than 600 in total. Christophe Claret matches the boldness of this charmingly romantic mechanism with an equally daring case design. To accentuate the 42.50 mm silhouette in 5N red, the bezel and the lugs are set with more than 380 diamonds of different sizes.

At the heart of this watchmaking fable, two graceful butterflies flit around a daisy whose petals set with more than 220 diamonds overlap in the same way as a real flower. Christophe Claret invites two butterflies in orange Super-LumiNova, to provide a joyful escort for the passing of time. The darker one, symbolizing the female, is perched on a daisy petal that rotates every hour. Meanwhile, the lighter one, embodying the male, indicates the minutes. Sitting lightly atop a stem attached to the precious pistil made of rubies, it literally flutters around the white mother-of-pearl dial.

Technical details
Movement
Caliber MT115, self-winding
Diameter: 35.70 mm
Thickness: 9.67 mm (with hands)
Number of components:  245
Number of jewels: 36
Barrels: Two barrels
Power reserve: 72  hours
Escapement:    Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph); Swiss lever

Functions
Hours and minutes are indicated by two butterflies flying around the dial
Dual display dial: time or “Il m’aime passionnément” (He loves me passionately)
“He loves me… he loves me not” game incorporated into the self-winding rotor visible through the display back

Case
Dimensions: Ø42.50 x 12.07 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
A total of 609 diamonds: bezel set with 312 diamonds, lug at 6 o’clock set with 34 diamonds, lug at 12 o’clock set with 42 diamonds and petals set with 221 diamonds.

Dial
Dial with double indications: the time with 3, 6, 9 visible around the dial, or text that reads, “Il m’aime passionnément” (He loves me passionately).
The change between the two displays is done via a pusher at 2 o’clock, which rotates the metallized transparent sapphire upper disk bearing a mosaic of transparent squares across a 1.5° angle over a fixed white mother-of-pearl lower disk overlaid with a pad-printed black varnish.

Time display
Hours are indicated by a butterfly, colored with grey anthracite PVD and dark orange Super-LumiNova, perched on a rotating marguerite daisy.
Minutes are indicated by a butterfly, colored with grey anthracite PVD and light orange Super-LumiNova, perched on a stem. This stem is attached to the central pistil and the pistil, stem and butterfly rotate together to display the minutes.
The pistil (centre) of the marguerite flower is in ruby. 12 petals set with diamonds.

Back
“He loves me… he loves me not” game: when the winding rotor stops, the ruby that is nearest to the red heart indicates the answer (“yes” or “no” indication in the centre).

Crown
5N red gold with 5N pink gold cabochon set with a ruby.

Strap
Red alligator leather with red stitching.
Clasp: 5N red gold

Edition
30-piece limited edition

Retail Price
Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 88,000

Christophe Claret Layla

 “He loves me… he loves me not.” Two years after unveiling its first ladies’ watch, Margot, the watchmaker from Le Locle offers a new variation suffused with oriental colors in a 20-piece limited series.

What hopeless romantic hasn’t ever plucked the petals off a daisy to discover how their sweetheart feels about them? “He loves me… he loves me not.” A game of luck, or a game of love? With this creation from Christophe Claret, time is wooed infinitely. The classic conundrum comes to life on dial of the Layla watch, an elegant and romantic ladies’ timepiece.

The story goes that the Île Saint-Louis in the center of Paris during the Middle Ages was a meadow lined with willows and poplars. It was an idyllic place for sweethearts to stroll and ‘learn’ the depth of each other’s love by picking petals off a daisy while reciting: “Il m’aime… il ne m’aime pas du tout”. Translation: He loves me… he loves me not (at all).  Note that while the English version is all or nothing – i.e. loves me, loves me not – the French has a wider range of possibilities: loves me a little, loves me lots, loves me passionately, loves me madly, or doesn’t love me at all.

The tradition has since transcended time as well as crossing continents. It is the perfect allegory for Christophe Claret’s desire to create a watch that is both charming and complex, the ultimate embodiment of women. A beautiful expression of true love, Layla follows on from Margot in transforming watchmaking savoir-faire into an amorous declaration.  With this new version, Christophe Claret pays tribute to the romanticism of Arabic poets.

Layla features an ingenious mechanism that helps to ‘predict’ – or at least tries to – one of nature’s paramount questions: “Does he love me?” A simple press of the pusher at 2 o’clock brings the watch to life. With each press, a petal – sometimes a pair of petals, it is impossible to foresee – subtly disappears under the dial in a smooth action, perfectly depicting the delicate undressing of the flower. The eagerly-awaited answer appears at random in calligraphic letters (in Arabic) on the dial at 8 o’clock: Un peu (a little) – beaucoup (a lot) – passionnément (passionately) – à la folie (madly) – pas du tout (not at all)? The difficulty for the Christophe Claret team lay in adapting the movement of the Margot for this interpretation so as to match the right-to-left direction of Arabic script.

At each press of the pusher, a distinct, crystalline chime resonates, aurally signaling the pace of the game. The striking mechanism is one of Manufacture Claret’s signature complications, blending technical mastery with sublime esthetics, and here its hammer is adorned with a prong-set ruby. A caseband window at 8 o’clock allows clear views of it vertically striking the cathedral gong above. Pressing the reset pusher at 4 o’clock instantly makes all petals reappear around the pistil and turns the ‘sentiment’ display at 4 o’clock to an ellipsis shown by three little dots (…). The petal display and its mechanism have been awarded a patent.

Such an original technique called for ingenious design. The dial exudes romantic femininity. At the whim of its iridescent reflections, the natural pink mother-of-pearl dial reveals delicately engraved verses penned by the Arab poet, Qays Al Mulawwah. The poem from which these excerpts are taken tells the story of Qays, a young poet and son of an illustrious family of Bedouins, who falls in love with his cousin Layla. In Bedouin culture, feathers generally arrange marriages and the young woman’s family refuses this match. Layla weds another suitor, leaves the region and Qays’ lifeless body is discovered several days later, protecting an ultimate poem dedicated to his love.

On the dial, three emeralds at 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock poetically punctuate the scene. A pair of gold-tipped, steel hands – each delicately round-polished by hand – glides over the 12 white, satin-lacquered titanium petals that tightly embrace the central emerald pistil, its multi-level corolla intensifying the three-dimensionality of the dial’s landscape.

In perfect harmony with the movement, the feminine gold case has a curved profile to suit even the slimmest wrist. Furthering softening the silhouette of this model, the crown is hidden from view, placed on the back next to the upper lugs.  These subtle gem-set lugs feature different designs that play with the aesthetics of the gems. The center of the space between the lugs is adorned with an emerald, while baguette-cut diamonds also create a scintillating play of light around the bezel.

The display back reveals the self-winding rotor, a delicately carved, flower-shaped carousel of colors symbolizing sentiments of love, with a central cabochon concealing the rotor’s ball bearings. Each one of the eight resplendent triangular precious stones denote a feeling – hope, passion, tenderness – also translated into Arabic.

The Layla watch is available in a 20-piece limited edition.

Technical Specifications
Movement
Caliber: EMT17, self-winding
Diameter: 38.4 mm
Thickness: 9.76 mm
Number of components: 731
Number of jewels: 95
Power reserve: 72 hours
Two barrels
Escapement: Swiss lever
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)

Functions
Hours and minutes
“He loves me… he loves me not” (“Effeuiller la marguerite” in French)
Symbolic ‘color-feeling’ on the winding rotor

Features
12 “He loves me…he loves me not” petals to ‘pick off’
‘Sentiment’ displayed in window at 8 o’clock: un peu (a little), beaucoup (a lot), passionnément (passionately), à la folie (madly) and pas du tout (not at all)
Pusher at 2 o’clock ’picks off’ 1 or 2 petals while advancing the ‘Sentiment’ indicator by 1 sentiment
Striking chime at each action of the 2 o’clock pusher with a visible hammer at 8 o’clock
“He loves me… loves me not” reset pusher at 4 o’clock: All the petals instantly reappear around a pistil, while the ‘Sentiment’ displayed turns to an ellipsis (…)

Case
Round
Dimensions: 42.50 X 50.15 X 14.52 mm
5N red gold, baguette-set
65 diamonds in total, approx. 5 carats
Top lugs with feature an emerald
Crown: 5N red gold
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft

Dial
Pink mother-of-pearl
White gold prong set with emeralds
Christophe Claret logo in 4N pink gold
Hands in steel with 4N pink gold tips

Strap
Emerald green alligator leather
5N red gold prong set with pear-shaped diamond
Clasp: 5N red gold

Edition
20-piece limited edition

Retail Price
Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 288,000

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 (New Versions)

Four years after unveiling the X-TREM-1 timepiece, Christophe Claret reveals two new versions in damascened steel, issued in 8-piece limited edition. X-TREM-1, the first of a generation of exceptional timepieces, represents a major technical and aesthetic accomplishment: a flying tourbillon inclined at a 30° angle, mounted on a three-dimensional curvex titanium mainplate, equipped with a retrograde hours and minutes display system that is radically different from existing watchmaking conventions. Two tiny hollowed steel spheres, isolated within sapphire tubes on the left and right sides of the caseband, magically move with no mechanical connection thanks to magnetic fields.

The Extreme Complications Watches line expresses Christophe Claret’s determination to continue pushing the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking, integrating certain fields of research never previously applied in this domain. X-TREM-1 is a fine example of this approach that involves using a system driven by magnetic fields display the hours and minutes.

The challenge was bold and some might say a little crazy: How could someone possibly think about introducing a magnetic field – the arch enemy of horological mechanisms – into the heart of a watch? The Christophe Claret team has done just that by creating a system where two small steel spheres – hollowed to make them lighter and encased within two sapphire tubes placed to the right and left of the caseband – are controlled by precision magnetic fields generated by two miniature magnets moved by cables. The cables are incredibly flexible, made from hundreds of Dyneema nanofibers all contained within an ultra-high-strength polyethylene gel, capable of withstanding tensile forces of up to a kilo. The entire thread is thinner than a human hair (4 hundredths of a mm in diameter). The resistance of the thread has been tested in the Manufacture Claret on an accelerated-wear simulator corresponding to six years of operation.

The spheres have no mechanical connection with the movement, with each one floating inside the two tubes and creating outstanding horological magic. This technology was developed with the School of Business and Engineering Vaud (HEIG-VD) in Yverdon-les-Bains, and a team headed by Professor Besson.

The entire construction and finishing of this timepiece meets the extreme demands systematically imposed by Christophe Claret. Ultra-light titanium was used for the three-dimensional curvex mainplate and the bridges. The flying tourbillon is fitted with double ceramic bearings to enhance its shock-resistance. It is inclined at a 30-degree angle in order to make it even more clearly visible to the wearer. The hand-wound watch draws its energy from two barrels enabling the use of a sophisticated display without disturbing the rate of the tourbillon, and thus the accuracy of the watch. The first barrel is reserved for the tourbillon, the second for the hours and minutes.

Driven as ever by a determination to present avant-garde timepieces, white or 5N red gold and damascened steel were the metals chosen to make the case of this new version of the X-TREM-1.

Damascened steel is traditionally produced by layer-assembling two types of stainless steel. Several successive forging and folding steps result in a piece of metal that may comprise several hundreds of layers. This extremely technical high-end alloy boasts excellent properties: a homogenous structure, pure material, as well as extreme resistance to corrosion and shocks. For this new X-TREME-1 model, the grades of steel used are 316L and 304L. The difficulty lay in introducing gold or ceramic into damascened steel for the time indication, and the second challenge involved actually machining the case from the extremely resistant damascened steel.

The many details that make a difference and contribute to giving this model its strength include the subtle color match between the case, the spheres, the hours and minutes numerals, the tourbillon age and the Christophe Claret logo.

Each of the two versions is produced in an 8-piece limited edition.

Technical details

Movement
Caliber: FLY11 – mechanical, hand-wound movement
Dimensions:    26.6 x 46.4 x 11.94 mm
Number of components: 419
Number of jewels: 64
Power reserve: 50+ hours
Dual barrels: one for the movement gear train, one for the time indications
Display-regulation escapement: The tourbillon movement and the time indication gear trains each have their own independent energy supply to optimize power distribution and duration

Tourbillon 
Swiss lever
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
Tourbillon rotates once every 60 seconds
Flying tourbillon inclined at 30° supported by a double ceramic bearing, with cone-shaped pinion transmission

Functions 
Mystery hours and minutes displayed with indications provided by hollowed steel spheres moving 23 mm inside two cylindrical sapphire tubes. The metal spheres are driven by magnetic carriages following a thread.
Seconds displayed on the tourbillon cage
Movement state-of-wind indication
Fast time adjustment is via an integrated pusher on the caseband at 12 o’clock

Mainplate
Curvex with sides inclined at 30° angle
Mainplate and bridges in bead-blasted titanium
Open-worked ratchet and wheel

Distinctive features
Use of precisely-shaped magnetic fields in a mechanical movement
No mechanical connection between the indications and the movement
Winding and time-setting via lift-out rotating “bows” on caseback

Models
X-TREM-1 MTR.FLY11.130-138
Rectangular case with curvex profile
Dimensions: 40.80 x 56.80 x 15 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
Case material: White gold and damascened steel with time indication in black ceramic
Spheres: Black chrome-treated stainless steel
Strap: Anthracite alligator
Edition: 8-piece limited series
Retail Price: Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 272,000.-

X-TREM-1 MTR.FLY11.140-148
Rectangular case with curvex profile
Dimensions: 40.80 x 56.80 x 15 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
Case material: 5N red gold and damascened steel with time indication in 5N red gold or black ceramic
Spheres: 4N pink gold stainless steel
Strap: Anthracite alligator
Edition: 8-piece limited series
Retail Price: Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 268,000.-

Christophe Claret Mecca

Christophe Claret unveils a timepiece whose symbolic power is highlighted by the ingenious optical phenomenon of the mirascope. At the center of this limited edition conveying a message of peace, the iconic Kaaba monument symbolizing the Muslim faith appears to literally burst out of the dial.

Exactly like the effigy of Emperor Marcus Aurelius enthroned at the heart of the Aventicum model unveiled in 2015, the micro-engraving of the Kaaba is highlighted by the mirascope, a process invented about thirty years ago at the University of California. The mirascope is composed of two identical parabolic mirrors arranged one on top of the other, creating an elliptical shape. The convex mirror on top has a hole in the middle. When an object is placed in the center of the concave bottom mirror, the reflection from the top mirror creates a hologram of the object, which appears nearly two times larger than it actually is. In implementing this optical effect in the Mecca model, the Kaaba looks as if it is thrusting out of the middle of the watch and offers a 360-degree view of the famous cube-shaped building erected at the center of the sacred mosque in the Holy City of Mecca.

Mecca, like all Christophe Claret signature timepieces, epitomizes the highest standards of fine watchmaking embodied by the brand. Developing the technically demanding mirascope to function perfectly took extreme dedication and focus. Two months of research and several prototypes were integral to obtaining the desired optical effect. The next critical step was designing and crafting the hour and minute hands, which had to be reconfigured, as the mirascope was now the centerpiece of the watch. The hands became pointers revolving on an invisible ring around the perimeter of the dial, each equipped with a counterweight to optimize stability. The challenge of creating the hands was to find a material light enough to compensate for the relatively larger – though mainly concealed – size of the display mechanism. The solution was to use anticorodal (aluminum), which has an excellent rigidity/weight coefficient.

The Mecca timepiece features a wealth of emblematic elements and references to the Muslim faith. First, the dial which opens on to the micro-engraving of the Kaaba is decorated with an oriental-inspired engraved motif lacquered in gray and green, the color of the Muslim faith. To accentuate the symbolism of the piece, the Arabic hour numerals were then replaced at 5 o’clock by a white ceramic stone and at 7 o’clock by a black spinel. The latter symbolizes the black stone located at the South-East angle of the Kaaba through which Muslims start the seven rounds of the Tawaf in a counter clockwise direction. The white ceramic represents this same stone, as described in the Koran before it became black due to repeated touching by pilgrims.

The ball-bearing cover is adorned with a transfer depicting the Kaaba, with the movement’s self-winding oscillating weight rotating around it. It should be noted that Christophe Claret has obtained a patent for the sapphire element connecting the ball bearings to the oscillating weight concealed behind a circle Crafted in sapphire so as to reveal the meticulous movement finishing, the oscillating weight bears a transferred world map featuring white dots symbolizing Muslims turning around the Kaaba.

Three Arabic expressions set the final touch to this new invitation to experience spirituality. At 12 o’clock, Masjid al-Haram means “The sacred mosque”. At 4 o’clock, the word “Tawaf” evokes the seven turns that the pilgrims must perform around the Kaaba. Finally, at 8 o’clock, Makkah al-Mukarramah means “The Holy City of Mecca”.

Technical details
Movement
Caliber: AVE15, self-winding
Diameter: 26.20 mm
Thickness: 3.37 mm (without hands)
Number of parts: 186
Number of jewels: 28
Barrels: Twin barrels
Power reserve: 72 hours
Escapement:
– Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
– Swiss lever
Features: ‘Mystery’ oscillating weight with sapphire crystal segment and transferred motifs

Functions
Hours and minutes display

Case
Dimensions: Ø 44 x 18.49 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft

MTR.AVE15.200-263
Case: Grade 5 titanium and anthracite gray grade 5 PVD titanium; Hands in anticorodal, anodized black, 3N yellow gold
Crown: Grade 5 titanium and anthracite gray grade 5 PVD titanium
Strap: Black alligator leather with black stitching

MTR.AVE15.300-363
Case: Grade 5 titanium ; Hands in anticorodal, anodized black, 3N yellow gold
Crown: Grade 5 titanium
Strap: Black alligator leather with black stitching

Distinctive features:
Front:
The Mecca timepiece is inspired by the Aventicum model: the dial center features a mirascope with a micro-engraving of the Kaaba, the cube-shaped “sacred mosque” (Masjid al-Haram) in Mecca, around which Muslims turn seven times in an anti-clockwise direction as part of the Tawaf ritual.

At 7 o’clock, a black spinel symbolizing the black stone located in the South-East angle of the Kaaba, where the Tawaf begins. At 5 o’clock, a white ceramic represents the black stone that the pilgrims touch with each turn and which was initially white in the Koran. The Kaaba is surrounded by an engraved Oriental-inspired motif lacquered in green and grey.

Back:
The ball-bearing cover bears a transfer depicting the Kaaba, considered to be the center of the world. On the sapphire oscillating weight revealing the movement, a transferred world map depicted with white dots symbolizes Muslims turning around the Kaaba, when the oscillating weight turns. The circumference of the oscillating weight bears an Oriental-inspired pink transferred motif.

A decorative plate bears a green transfer bearing three inscriptions in Arabic:
At 12 o’clock: Masjid al-Haram, which means “The sacred mosque”;
At 4 o’clock: Tawaf, which refers to the ritual of seven turns around the Kaaba that Pilgrims must perform;
At 8 o’clock: Makkah al-Mukarramah, the name of “The Holy City of Mecca”.

Edition
Limited edition of 63 pieces

Christophe Claret Espoir & Paix Only Watch 2015 Unique Piece

Christophe Claret is once again supporting the Only Watch charity auction by presenting a one-of-a-kind model entitled Espoir & Paix. With this timepiece, Christophe Claret pays tribute to Hope (espoir) on the dial and to Peace (paix) on the caseback.

An emerald set in the dial center is highlighted by a mirascope, a device featured for the first time in the Aventicum watch, based on the same principle as a hologram and creating an almost twice-enlarged image of the emerald with its green color symbolizing hope. This optical effect gives the impression that the precious stone is literally bursting out of the watch.

The center of the oscillating weight appearing through the back of the watch is graced with a portrait of Alfred Nobel with a green agate rim revealing the movement.

It also bears the name of the 129 laureates who have received the Nobel Peace Prize since its creation, listed clockwise in chronological order with the most recent appearing at 6 o’clock.

Technical details
Movement
Caliber: AVE15, self-winding
Dimensions:  Diameter: 26.20 mm ; Thickness: 3.37 mm (without hands)
Number of parts:186
Number of jewels: 28
Barrels: Twin barrels
Power reserve: 72 hours
Escapement: Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph); Swiss lever

Functions
Hours and minutes display

Case
White gold and anthracite gray grade 5 PVD titanium
Dimensions: Ø 44 x 18.49 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
Hands in anticorodal aluminium
Crown: White gold and anthracite gray grade 5 PVD titanium with cabochon in black PVD titanium

Strap
Black alligator leather with black stitching

Distinctive features:

Front:
Mirascope in the dial center set with an emerald symbolizing hope.
Engraved motif lacquered in green and white surrounding the emerald.

Back
Portrait of Alfred Nobel engraved on black anodized aluminum.
Green agate rim revealing the movement.
Engraved names of the 129 laureates who have received the Nobel Peace Prize since its creation, listed clockwise in chronological order with the most recent appearing at 6 o’clock.
The two rows of names furthest from the center remain in a fixed position, while the rows closest to the center turn in step with the oscillating weight.

Christophe Claret Marguerite

An undeniably poetic watch driven by a unique sense of playfulness and optical illusions, the new Marguerite is part of the Margot line, Christophe Claret’s very first ladies’ model. This creation affirms the brand’s determination to give substance to a full-fledged feminine collection that consists of complications exclusively devoted to women.

At the heart of this new horology creation, interpreted in four versions, two graceful butterflies flit around a daisy whose white lacquered petals overlap in the same way as a real flower. Christophe Claret invites two butterflies in blue, orange or red Super-LumiNova, depending on the version, to provide a joyful escort for the passing of time. The darker one, symbolizing the female, is perched on a daisy petal that rotates every hour. Meanwhile, the lighter one, embodying the male, indicates the minutes. Sitting lightly atop a stem attached to the precious pistil made of rubies or blue sapphires, it literally flutters around the white mother-of-pearl dial.

In addition to the Arabic numerals at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, the dial presents a second display. One press on the pusher at 2 o’clock makes the numbers disappear to reveal the phrase: “Il m’aime passionnément” (He loves me passionately). In developing this optical illusion game, Christophe Claret drew inspiration from the famous “Wow!!” magic trick, which has never before been incorporated into a watch. The changeover of the two dials is achieved by superimposing two disks: the metallized transparent sapphire upper disk bearing a mosaic of transparent squares rotates over the fixed mother-of-pearl lower disk overlaid with another pad-printed black or blue varnished mosaic incorporating the text and the numerals. Releasing the pusher makes the hour display reappear instantly.

The 42.50 mm case in white or rose gold is delicately accentuated by two newly invented types of setting. The “flake” setting adorning both versions of the Marguerite watch is an elegant interpretation of the snow-setting technique. One hundred variously sized diamonds appear to be randomly sprinkled over the bezel and lugs just like delicate flakes. The “champagne” setting on the other two versions also features a hundred diamonds of different sizes. Concentrated on the lower part of the case, and then freely set here and there on the upper part of the bezel and the 12 o’clock lug, the diamonds are reminiscent of sparkling bubbles that give the entire creation a light, airy appearance.

The Marguerite watch is equipped with a self-winding Manufacture movement whose double barrel ensures an impressive 72-hour power reserve. The sapphire caseback provides an opportunity to admire the movement’s oscillating weight sculpted like a daisy and set with eight rubies. At will, the owner can indulge in the “He loves me, he loves me not” game, the simplified English version of daisy petals, that typically feminine distraction invented in the 18th century. In order to play, the watch must be placed in a horizontal position and accompanied by one or two undulating movements. The oscillating weight then turns for a few seconds prior to standing still. The ruby closest to the red-lacquered heart provides the response – “yes” or “no” in the center.

A great fan of detail, Christophe Claret includes a great many references to the delicacy of the marguerite daisy. In the center of the oscillating weight, a flower-shaped circular satin-brushed and diamond-polished element serves to conceal the ball-bearing mechanism. This motif is echoed by the petal-like fluted motif adorning, as well as the flower-shaped screws securing the strap.

More than ever, the Marguerite establishes itself as a vivid symbol of the romantic game of love and chance. A watch to be loved passionately in all four versions – white or rose gold, “flake” or “champagne” set – each available in 30-piece limited editions from July 2015.

Technical details

Movement
Caliber:    MT115, self-winding
Diameter: 35.70 mm
Thickness: 9.67 mm (with hands)
Number of components: 245
Number of jewels: 36
Barrels:    Two barrels
Power reserve: 72  hours
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Escapement: Swiss lever

Functions
Hours and minutes are indicated by two butterflies flying around the dial
Dual display dial: time or “Il m’aime passionnément” (He loves me passionately)
“He loves me. He loves me not” game incorporated into the self-winding rotor visible through the display back

Marguerite Champagne-set white gold case

Case
Dimensions: Ø42.50 x 12.07 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
Champagne-set white gold case:
–  Bezel set with 73 diamonds
– Lug at 6 o’clock set with 17 diamonds
– Lug at 12 o’clock set with 8 diamonds
Back: “He loves me. He loves me not” game: when the winding rotor stops, the ruby that is nearest to the red heart indicates the answer (“yes” or “no” indication in the centre).
Crown: White gold with white gold cabochon set with a blue sapphire.

Dial
Dial with double indications: the time with the 3, 6 and 9 numerals or text that reads, “Il m’aime passionnément” (He loves me passionately).
The change between the two displays is done via a pusher at 2 o’clock, which rotates the metallized transparent sapphire upper disk bearing a mosaic of transparent squares across a 1.5° angle over a fixed white mother-of-pearl lower disk overlaid with a pad-printed blue varnish. When the pusher is released, the dial automatically returns to the initial display (time).

Time display
Hours are indicated by a butterfly, colored with grey anthracite PVD and dark blue Super-LumiNova, perched on a rotating marguerite daisy.
Minutes are indicated by a butterfly, colored with grey anthracite PVD and light blue Super-LumiNova, perched on a stem. This stem is attached to the central blue pistil and the pistil, stem and butterfly rotate together to display the minutes.
The pistil (centre) of the marguerite flower is in blue sapphire.
12 petals in nickel silver that has been rhodium plated then painted with white lacquer.

Strap
Blue alligator leather with blue stitching and white gold screws.
Clasp: White gold

Edition
30-piece limited edition

Retail price
Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 69,000

Marguerite Champagne-set rose gold case

Case
Dimensions: Ø42.50 x 12.07 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
Champagne-set rose gold case:
–  Bezel set with 73 diamonds
– Lug at 6 o’clock set with 17 diamonds
– Lug at 12 o’clock set with 8 diamonds
Back: “He loves me. He loves me not” game: when the winding rotor stops, the ruby that is nearest to the red heart indicates the answer (“yes” or “no” indication in the centre).
Crown: Rose gold with rose gold cabochon set with a ruby.

Dial
Dial with double indications: the time with 3, 6, 9 visible around the dial, or text that reads, “Il m’aime passionnément” (He loves me passionately).
The change between the two displays is done via a pusher at 2 o’clock, which rotates the metallized transparent sapphire upper disk bearing a mosaic of transparent squares across a 1.5° angle over a fixed white mother-of-pearl lower disk overlaid with a pad-printed black varnish. When the pusher is released, the dial automatically returns to the initial display (time).

Time display
Hours are indicated by a butterfly, colored with grey anthracite PVD and dark orange Super-LumiNova, perched on a rotating marguerite daisy.
Minutes are indicated by a butterfly, colored with grey anthracite PVD and light orange Super-LumiNova, perched on a stem. This stem is attached to the central red pistil and the pistil, stem and butterfly rotate together to display the minutes.
The pistil (centre) of the marguerite flower is in ruby.
12 petals in 4N rose gold that has been painted with white lacquer.

Strap
Red alligator leather with red stitching and rose gold screws.
Clasp: Rose gold

Edition
30-piece limited edition

Price
Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 69,000

Marguerite Flake-set white gold case

Case
Dimensions: Ø42.50 x 12.07 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
Flake-set white gold case:
–  Bezel set with 76 diamonds
– Lug at 6 o’clock set with 10 diamonds
– Lug at 12 o’clock set with 14 diamonds
Back: “He loves me. He loves me not” game: when the winding rotor stops, the ruby that is nearest to the red heart indicates the answer (“yes” or “no” indication in the centre).
Crown: White gold with white gold cabochon set with a ruby.

Dial
Dial with double indications: the time with 3, 6, 9 visible around the dial, or text that reads, “Il m’aime passionnément” (He loves me passionately).
The change between the two displays is done via a pusher at 2 o’clock, which rotates the metallized transparent sapphire upper disk bearing a mosaic of transparent squares across a 1.5° angle over a fixed white mother-of-pearl lower disk overlaid with a pad-printed black varnish.  When the pusher is released, the dial automatically returns to the initial display (time).

Time display
Hours are indicated by a butterfly, colored with grey anthracite PVD and dark red Super-LumiNova, perched on a rotating marguerite daisy.
Minutes are indicated by a butterfly, colored with grey anthracite PVD and light red Super-LumiNova, sitting on a stem. This stem is attached to the central red pistil and the pistil, stem and butterfly rotate together to display the minutes.
The pistil (centre) of the marguerite flower is in ruby.
12 petals in nickel silver that has been rhodium plated then painted with white lacquer.

Strap
Red alligator leather with red stitching and white gold screws.
Clasp: White gold

Edition
30-piece limited edition

Retail price
Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 69,000

Marguerite Flake-set Rose Gold Case

Case
Dimensions: Ø42.50 x 12.07 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
Flake-set Rose Gold Case
–  Bezel set with 76 diamonds
– Lug at 6 o’clock set with 10 diamonds
– Lug at 12 o’clock set with 14 diamonds
Back: “He loves me. He loves me not” game: when the winding rotor stops, the ruby that is nearest to the red heart indicates the answer (“yes” or “no” indication in the centre).
Crown: Rose gold with rose gold cabochon set with a blue sapphire.

Dial
Dial with double indications: the time with 3, 6, 9 visible around the dial, or text that reads, “Il m’aime passionnément” (He loves me passionately).
The change between the two displays is done via a pusher at 2 o’clock, which rotates the metallized transparent sapphire upper disk bearing a mosaic of transparent squares across a 1.5° angle over a fixed white mother-of-pearl lower disk overlaid with a pad-printed blue varnish. When the pusher is released, the dial automatically returns to the initial display (time).

Time display
Hours are indicated by a butterfly, colored with grey anthracite PVD and dark blue Super-LumiNova, perched on a rotating marguerite daisy.
Minutes are indicated by a butterfly, colored with grey anthracite PVD and light blue Super-LumiNova, perched on a stem. This stem is attached to the central red pistil and the pistil, stem and butterfly rotate together to display the minutes.
The pistil (centre) of the marguerite flower is blue sapphire.
12 petals in 4N rose gold that has been painted with white lacquer.

Strap
Blue alligator with blue stitching and rose gold screws.
Clasp: Rose gold

Edition
30-piece limited edition

Retail Price
Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 69,000

Christophe Claret Aventicum

Christophe Claret’s passion for history has inspired him to create Aventicum, a tribute to the capital of ancient Roman Helvetia and to highlight the extraordinary work of the Avenches Roman Museum. In the center of its dial, Aventicum reveals a miniature gold bust of Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius. The micro-engraved effigy is particularly three-dimensional thanks to an ingenious optical effect.

Christophe Claret has always been intrigued by the history of Aventicum, which was the capital of Roman Helvetia for more than 300 years and the ruins of which now lie near the Swiss town of Avenches. Even today at the Aventicum excavation sites, archaeologists continue to unearth precious artefacts dating from this rich era of antiquity.

In 2013, Christophe Claret decided to create a three-dimensional film in partnership with Philippe Nicolet and his production company, NVP3D, to document the incredible relics now belonging to the Avenches Roman Museum and the town of Avenches. The advantage of using 3D for a film of this nature becomes evident on the big screen. Displaying the ancient artefacts in three dimensions allows for incomparable detail of even the tiniest objects, giving audiences and researchers alike the opportunity to rediscover the rich history of Aventicum. Among the excavated objects was a priceless finding: a solid gold bust of Emperor Marcus Aurelius, which was found in 1939 when an old pipe was being cleaned.

This precious discovery is one of only three known Roman busts of this style in the world. Other similar statues were most likely melted down and recycled into other objects over the centuries. Due to the museum’s limited exhibition space, many of the ancient Roman capital’s excavated objects cannot be properly displayed for the public.

Christophe Claret hopes that his Aventicum-inspired timepiece will help raise awareness about the phenomenal efforts of the Avenches Roman Museum to preserve these vestiges of this ancient civilization. He also wishes to generate support from the Swiss government to construct a new building to conserve and showcase this incredible heritage.

The ancient capital city’s history, coupled with the 3D film, has served as inspiration for the Aventicum timepiece. A micro-engraved gold replica of the Marcus Aurelius bust can be found in the centre of the dial. Incorporating a technique never before used in the history of watchmaking, the faithful, small-scale representation of the Emperor – measuring less than three millimetres – is displayed in magnified form thanks to a clever invention called the mirascope.

The mirascope is comprised of two identical parabolic mirrors arranged one on top of the other, creating an elliptical shape. The convex mirror on top has a hole in the middle. When an object is placed in the centre of the concave bottom mirror, the reflection from the top mirror creates a hologram of the object, which appears nearly two times larger than it actually is. In implementing this optical effect in Aventicum, the bust of Marcus Aurelius looks as if it is thrusting out of the middle of the watch. The illusion is so realistic that it is hard to resist attempting to touch the gold sculpture through the sapphire glass.

Aventicum, like all Christophe Claret signature timepieces, epitomizes the highest standards of haute horlogerie embodied by the brand. Developing the technically demanding mirascope to function perfectly took extreme dedication and focus. Months of research and several prototypes were integral to obtaining the desired optical effect.

The next critical step was designing and fabricating the hour and minute hands, which had to be reconfigured, as the mirascope was now the centrepiece of the watch. The hands became pointers revolving on an invisible ring around the perimeter of the dial, each equipped with a counterweight to optimize stability. The challenge of creating the hands for Aventicum was to find a material light enough to compensate for the relatively larger – though mainly concealed – size the display mechanism. The solution was to use carbon microfiber, which has an excellent rigidity/weight coefficient.

Turning over Aventicum, the patented, transparent sapphire-winding rotor of the automatic movement can be admired through the display back. The rotor is embellished with five numbered Roman Gaul racing chariots in full swing of a thrilling competition. Yes, the playful spirit found on many of Claret’s timepieces is apparent yet again, this time in the form of a fun, interactive race: by positioning Aventicum horizontally and performing one or two waving movements, the chariots are jumpstarted in the wake of the rotor’s action, which then stops.

The player whose chariot finishes above the “A” of Aurèle (Aurelius), engraved on the periphery, is the winner. Aventicum embraces its Roman heritage, as this great civilization’s artistic influence suffuses the timepiece by way of a number of carefully thought out adornments – like the Roman numerals forming the hours or the labyrinthine motif found on both the dial and back of the watch, encircling the sapphire-winding rotor.

As Marcus Aurelius was not only an emperor but also a philosopher, Christophe Claret elected to engrave, in Latin, one of his famous maxims on the back of the watch: “Perfice Omnia facta vitae quasi haec postrema essent”, or “Perform every act in life as though it were your last.” Christophe Claret has licensed the patent from Vianney Halter regarding the relationship between the outer sapphire rotor and  its inner bearing.

Aventicum is available in two limited editions: 68 pieces in 5N red gold and anthracite PVD-treated, grade 5 titanium; and 38 pieces in palladium-rich white gold and anthracite PVD-treated, grade 5 titanium.

Technical details
Model: Aventicum

Movement
Caliber AVE15, automatic-winding
Diameter: 26.20 mm
Height: 3.37 mm (excluding hands)
Number of parts: 186
Number of jewels: 28
Barrels:    Twin barrels
Power reserve: 72 hours
Escapement: Swiss lever
Frequency: 4 Hz (28’800 vph)

Features: ‘Mystery’ winding rotor in transparent sapphire adorned with 5 high-definition metalized chariots

Functions
Hour and minute display around chapter ring

Aventicum in Palladium-rich white gold
Case: Palladium-rich white gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium
Hands in carbon fiber
Dimensions: 44 x 52.11 x 18.49 mm
Water Resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
Crown: White gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium with cabochon in black PVD titanium
Strap: Black alligator leather with black stitching
Features: Mirascope with a micro-engraved bust of Marcus Aurelius
Limited edition of 38 pieces
Price in Swiss Francs (ex VAT):  53’000

Aventicum in 5N red gold
Case: 5N red gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium
Dimensions: 44 x 52.11 x 18.49 mm
Water Resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
Hands in carbon fiber
Crown: 5N red gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium with cabochon in black PVD titanium
Strap: Black alligator leather with black stitching
Features: Mirascope with micro-engraved bust of Marcus Aurelius
Limited edition of 68 pieces: Price in Swiss France (ex VAT): 49’000

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 Blue

Prestigious Swiss luxury watch brand Christophe Claret announces its X-TREM-1 Blue version, and this novelty timepiece will be unveiled at the brand’s exhibition at the Four Seasons hotel in Geneva from the 18th to the 22nd of January, 2015.

This timepiece features a white gold and grade 5 titanium case treated with slate blue PVD, plus a matching marine blue alligator-skin strap. The X-TREM-1 has become one of the most popular watches of the brand and this blue version is as visually striking as it is technically innovative.

Christophe Claret has always focused on developing original timepieces incorporating the latest technological innovations. The brand is known for pushing the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking and straying away from the beaten horological path. First presented in 2012, X-TREM-1 is a testament to this endeavor and represents a totally new way of telling the time.

X-TREM-1 Blue displays hour and minutes by means of two tiny hollowed stainless steel spheres isolated within sapphire tubes on both sides of the caseband. The whole mechanism is revolutionary: the two spheres – which appear to be floating in their respective tubes – are controlled by magnetic fields generated by two magnets moved by ultra-thin surgical silk thread.

Thanks to the magnetic fields generated by the magnets, the spheres have no mechanical connection to the movement and float inside the tubes, as if by magic. Crucially, the magnetic fields are precision-focused so that they have no effect whatsoever on the movement – apart from the task assigned to them, which is to display time in an incredibly original way. Time is read against a metalized scale on each tube, hours on the left, minutes on the right.

X-TREM-1 Blue features a white gold and slate blue PVD titanium case and is available in a limited edition of eight pieces.

Christophe Claret – Art Pieces (Dragon Watch & Tiger Watch)

Based in Switzerland, Manufacture Christophe Claret is renowned for ultra complex and playful complication watches that continue to surprise mechanical watch connoisseurs and serious collectors across the world. This great luxury watch manufacture was established by master watchmaker Christophe Claret, who revolutionised the Swiss watch making industry by introducing some horology masterpieces.

Christophe Claret also offers exceptional customised mechanical watches on demand.  They  were however  ultra-confidential,  being  destined  for  great  collectors  and  therefore  unknown  to  a  wider audience.  Here we are presenting two exceptional masterpieces manufactured by Christophe Claret for his elite clients.

An  anthem  to  artistic  crafts  such  as  engraving  and  gem  setting, they  are  called  Dragon Watch – based on a silver Samurai belt engraved with two dragons and purchased at auction or Tiger Watch – created to embody an American collector’s fascination with tigers.

DRAGON WATCH

DRAGON WATCH
Movement
Mysterious hand-wound system
Calibre: CCR97
Components: 195
Jewels: 19
Blue screws
Hand-engraved barrel bridge
Tourbillon movement:
-Swiss lever escapement
-Balance oscillation frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
-Tourbillon rotation frequency: 1 revolution/minute
Power reserve: approximately 100 hours

Functions
Hour and minute

Case
Rose gold (also available in white gold)
Inner bezel ring with diamond-set hour-markers, red rubies-set quarters
Red rubies crown cabochon
Blue hands
Hand-engraved dragons on red lacquered back
Diameter: 41 mm
Water resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)

Strap
Black crocodile leather
Folding clasps and rose gold buckle

Unique Piece

TIGER WATCH

TIGER WATCH
Movement
Mysterious hand-wound system
Calibre: CCR97
Components: 195
Jewels (blue sapphire stones): 19
Hand-engraved barrel bridge
Blue screws
Tourbillon movement:
. Swiss lever escapement
. Balance oscillation frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
. Tourbillon rotation frequency: 1 revolution/minute
Power reserve: approximately 100 hours

Functions
Hour and minute

Case
White gold (also available in rose gold and set ring)
Inner bezel ring with diamond-set hour-markers, blue sapphire-set quarters
Blue sapphire crown cabochon
Blue hands
Hand-engraved tiger on blue lacquered back
Diameter: 41 mm
Water resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)

Strap
Blue crocodile leather
Triple folding clasps and white gold buckle

Unique Piece

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 in Red Gold and Chocolate PVD Titanium

Swiss haute horlogerie brand Christophe Claret presents X-TREM-1 Chocolate, featuring a red gold and grade 5 titanium case treated with chocolate-color PVD, plus an alligator-skin strap of the same brown hue. This timepiece is as visually striking as it is technically innovative.

Christophe Claret has always focused on developing original timepieces incorporating the latest technological innovations. The brand is known for pushing the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking and straying away from the beaten horological path. First presented in 2012, X-TREM-1 is a testament to this endeavor and represents a totally new way of telling the time.

X-TREM-1 displays hour and minutes by means of two tiny hollowed steel spheres isolated within sapphire tubes on both sides of the caseband. The whole mechanism is revolutionary: the two spheres – which appear to be floating in their respective tubes – are controlled by magnetic fields generated by two magnets moved by ultra-thin surgical silk thread. Thanks to the magnetic fields generated by the magnets, the spheres have no mechanical connection to the movement and float inside the tubes, as if by magic. Crucially, the magnetic fields are precision-focused so that they have no effect whatsoever on the movement – apart from the task assigned to them, which is to display time in an incredibly original way.

X-TREM-1 Chocolate is equipped with a flying tourbillon – which is inclined at 30° and mounted on a convex titanium mainplate – and is available in a limited edition of eight pieces.