Christophe Claret AL-ULA

Christophe Claret unveils a timepiece whose symbolic power is highlighted by the ingenious optical phenomenon of the mirascope. At the center of this limited edition conveying a message recalling the history and civilizations of the East which founded the foundations of modern society: AL- ULA, a basin stretching from Jordan to the Arabian desert, sumptuous witness of the Nabatean civilization, the iconic monument symbolizing appears to literally burst out of the dial.

Christophe Claret never ceases to surprise. This true virtuoso of the watchmaking art plays with mechanics, reinvents style codes and creates a fresh and very personal vision of the passing of time. This approach has driven the creation of the Mecca timepiece that uses the optical phenomenon of the mirascope in paying tribute to a civilization and a rich culture more than three thousand years old.

AL-ULA, the capital of the Kingdom of Dedan, is today a site of major cultural significance and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It welcomes Al-Hegra and Mada’in Saleh into its signature. The site has several dozen monuments that have been incredibly preserved from late antiquity.

Christophe Claret AL-ULA

One of these monuments, very famous in its symbolism, is micro engraved and highlighted thanks to the mirascope, a process invented about thirty years ago at the University of California. The mirascope is composed of two identical parabolic mirrors arranged one on top of the other, creating an elliptical shape. The convex mirror on top has a hole in the middle.

When an object is placed in the center of the concave bottom mirror, the reflection from the top mirror creates a hologram of the object, which appears nearly two times larger than it actually is. In implementing this optical effect in the Mecca model, the monument looks as if it is thrusting out of the middle of the watch and offers a 360-degree view of the emblematic memorial which has withstood all phenomena to bear witness to the grandiosity and talent of the past civilization.

AL-ULA, like all Christophe Claret signature timepieces, epitomizes the highest standards of fine watchmaking embodied by the brand. Developing the technically demanding mirascope to function perfectly took extreme dedication and focus. Two months of research and several prototypes were integral to obtaining the desired optical effect. The next critical step was designing and crafting the hour and minute hands, which had to be reconfigured, as the mirascope was now the centerpiece of the watch.

The hands became pointers revolving on an invisible ring around the perimeter of the dial, each equipped with a counterweight to optimize stability. The challenge of creating the hands was to find a material light enough to compensate for the relatively larger – though mainly concealed – size of the display mechanism. The solution was to use anticorodal (aluminum), which has an excellent rigidity/weight coefficient.

The AL-ULA timepiece features a wealth of emblematic elements and references to the ancestral culture of the region. First, the dial which opens on the iconic Mada’in Saleh monument is engraved in solid rose gold. The color green, in connection with the Arab culture of the past and the present. To accentuate the symbolism of the piece, the Arabic hour numerals and the “AL-MIM” motifs have been engraved on the flange. The front of the watch reveals a calligraphy drawn in the Diwani style by a master calligrapher, “AL-ULA and THE MAGIC OF THE ORIENT”, this one is filled by a hand engraving.

The aesthetic and symbolic spectacle is continued on to the back of the AL-ULA timepiece. The ball-bearing cover is decorated with an engraving of the coat of arms of the Christophe Claret brand around which the green sapphire oscillating weight of the self-winding movement rotates. It should be noted that Christophe Claret has obtained a patent for the sapphire element connecting the ball-bearings to the oscillating weight concealed behind a circle Crafted in green sapphire so as to reveal the meticulous movement finishing, all decorated with a motif around the edge engraved by hand with a green enamel filling.

Finally, the back bezel is engraved with the symbolism of AL-ULA’s current geographic location. The back of the watch shows important inscriptions relating to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, guardian of today AL-ULA. All adorned with green enamel, the inscriptions “LA ILAH ILA ALLAH MOHAMAD RASOOL ALLAH” and “THE KINGDOM OF SAUDI ARABIA” are also calligraphed in the Diwani style and engraved by hand to perfect this extraordinary masterpiece.

Technical specifications

Movement
Caliber: AVE15, self-winding
Diameter: 26.20 mm
Thickness: 3.37 mm (without hands)
Number of parts: 186
Number of jewels: 28
Barrels: Twin barrels
Power reserve: 72 hours
Escapement: Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph) – Swiss lever
‘Mystery’ oscillating weight with sapphire crystal segment and transferred motifs

Functions
Hours and minutes display

Case
Grade 5 titanium/ Red gold 5N
Dimensions: Ø 44 x 18.49 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft

Strap
Green alligator

Distinctive features

Front
The AL-ULA watch is inspired by the Aventicum model: the center of the dial, the mirascope with the emblematic monument of Mada’in Saleh micro-engraved. Around, oriental calligraphy engraved and lacquered in green and gray color.

Back
The oscillating weight is in green sapphire revealing the movement, adorned with an “Al-Mim” motif engraved and enameled in green around the circumference of the weight.

On a decorative plate, green decal of two inscriptions Arabic:
– At 12: “LA ILLAH ILA ALLAH MOHAMAD RASOOL ALLAH” “There is no god but GOD and Muhammad is his messenger”
– At 6: “AL MAMLAKA ALARABIA ALSAOUDIA” “The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia”
– At 3 and 9: the sword symbol of the flag of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia

Models

Reference MTR.AVE15.600-617
Case: Grade 5 titanium
Hands: Anticorodal, anodized green with 4N red gold tips, black lacquered
Crown: Grade 5 titanium and anthracite gray grade 5 PVD titanium
Limited edition: 17
Price: 69’000 Swiss francs (ex VAT)

Reference MTR.AVE15.620-637
Case: Red gold 5N
Hands: Anticorodal, anodized black with 4N red gold tips, black lacquered
Crown: Red Gold 5N Strap: Green alligator
Limited edition: 17
Price: 77’000 Swiss francs (ex VAT)

Christophe Claret Maestro Indian

Seamlessly blending aesthetics and technicality, Maestro showcases an original take on the horological creativity of Christophe Claret. Its glass dome provides a striking, almost dizzying view of the movement architecture and the famous Charles X bridges. Endowed with a seven-day power reserve, a cone-shaped large date display and a 3D MEMO function, Maestro asserts itself as the first Haute Complication watch by Christophe Claret with a price of 72’000 CHF.

The 42mm case – the smallest diameter in the Christophe Claret collections – in grade 5 titanium, 5N red gold or platinum asserts its style with a curvex shape that accentuates its trim design. The choice of a glass dome to serve as a bezel provides a whole new perspective on the movement. The airy and graphic architecture – reinforced by the inner bezel ring featuring matt and polished finishing or set with baguette-cut gems, as well as Christophe Claret’s characteristic two-tone, bi-material hands.

Christophe Claret Maestro Indian

The show really gets going with an exploration of the mechanical hand-wound movement. In line with previous models in the Traditional collection, Christophe Claret has lavished great care on every detail and focused on ensuring an ideal match between technical and aesthetic aspects. The visual journey begins with the famous Charles X style stepped and skeletonized bridges that have become a signature of the Maison through its various collections.

The skeleton-working of the bridge supporting the escapement represents a clever blend of classicism and modernity that affords a chance to appreciate all its subtle features. The balance-wheel with countersunk screws has been entirely developed and produced in-house.

Expressing a permanent concern for details, a natural ruby or a natural sapphire, depending on the version, adorns this assembly in order to conceal the shock-absorbing system. This rare degree of mastery, encompassing the full range of Haute Horlogerie professions, enables the Manufacture to transcend technical sophistication by its constant pursuit of aesthetic perfection.

The visual adventure through the intricacies of the movement continues with two series-coupled barrels ensuring optimal efficiency and majestically positioned at 12 o’clock. Here too, the bridges are skeletonized to provide an exemplary view of the blade spring of the first barrel and thus enable the wearer of the watch to gauge the state of the seven-day power reserve. A fine example of the golden rule tirelessly followed by Christophe Claret: techniques and aesthetics join forces in serving useful complications.

Christophe Claret never misses out on a chance to express his creative audacity through original displays running counter to traditional design codes. An excellent example is the large date that the watchmaker has cleverly placed at 5 o’clock. Composed of two cones, one for the tens on the upper part and the second for the units, this patented large date display performs a semi-instantaneous jump between midnight and twenty past midnight. Lending the perfect finishing touch, its top is set with a natural ruby or a natural sapphire.

As if to echo the 3D effect of this voluminous date display, another cone shape – also topped with a sapphire or ruby – draws the gaze to the space between 3 and 4 o’clock. Never one to stint on playful complications liable to fire the imagination of watch connoisseurs, Christophe Claret unveils here another brand-new function.

Inspired by the expression “tie a knot in your handkerchief” to help one remember something important, MEMO is an ingenious mechanical reminder intended for absent-minded individuals as well as fans of technical gadgets. Whatever daily objective the owner of the Maestro has set himself, the MEMO is there to remind him of his commitments. In the initial position, meaning when the owner must do something, the gem visible at 6 o’clock on the side face of the MEMO is the same color as the one at the top of the MEMO, meaning two rubies or two sapphires depending on the model.

Once the objective has been met, a simple press on the pusher at 2 o’clock pivots the MEMO function, which will display a diamond on its side face at 6 o’clock, instead of the ruby or the sapphire. The MEMO will return to its initial position each night in a twenty-minute process driven by a semi-instantaneous jump system.

Hand-finished according to the noblest Haute Horlogerie traditions, the Maestro reveals a level of finishing that few watch manufacturers can claim to master, such as the stepped Charles X style bridges featuring 26 interior angles. A sapphire crystal pane fitted on the back of the watch provides a chance to admire the meticulous movement decorations.

Maestro Indian is in grade 5 titanium pink chrome movement, issued in 17-piece limited editions.

Technical details

Model: Christophe Claret Maestro Indian
Reference: MTR.DMC16.330-337

Movement
Caliber: DMC16, mechanical hand-wound Dimensions: – Diameter: 36.25 mm – Thickness: 10.50 mm (without the hands) Number of components: 349 Number of jewels: 33
Barrels: Two series-mounted barrels Power reserve: 7 days (approx. 168 hours)
Escapement:
– Swiss lever escapement
– Balance-wheel with countersunk screws
– Balance-wheel oscillation frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)

Functions
Pointer-type display of the hours and minutes
Pyramid-shaped large date display at 5 o’clock, with tens on the upper cone and units on the lower cone
MEMO function between 3 and 4 o’clock: cone shape adorned with a sapphire serving to remind the wearer of a commitment

Movement decoration/finish
Stepped and skeletonized Charles X style bridges
Skeletonized barrel
26 interior angles

Case
Grade 5 titanium
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 16.06 mm
Crown: Stainless steel
Water resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)

Hands
Black chrome-plated and blue anodized aluminum, with Super-Luminova®

Strap
Blue alligator

Edition
Limited series: 17

Retail price
Price excluding tax in Swiss francs: CHF 72,000.-

Christophe Claret Napoleon: Westminster Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater with Jaquemart Automata

Independent Swiss luxury watch manufacture Christophe Claret pays homage to Napoleon Bonaparte on the occasion of the bicentenary of his death by producing an exceptional watch. The «Napoleon» is a Westminster flying tourbillon minute repeater provided with a jaquemart automata featuring Napoleon with his soldiers.

To pay tribute to the genius military strategist, a military campaign, entirely handmade miniature painting, is staged in the first painting of this series of unique pieces. The animated characters are embossed and enhanced with colors.

Christophe Claret Napoleon Red Gold watch

Christophe Claret Napoleon red gold watch case back

Napoleon, to reward his bravest soldiers, created, from the start of his reign, the Legion of Honor and his famous medal. Christophe Claret decided to put the exceptional symbol on the tourbillon cage of this timepiece.

Christophe Claret Napoleon titanium

Christophe Claret Napoleon titanium case back

The Westminster minute repeater mechanism plays a musical tune when the quarters ring. Each quarters has a different ringtone «C D E G; G D E C; E G D C. » This ringtone, resulting from a collaboration between Christophe Claret and a virtuoso violinist, offers notes with optimal quality.

This musical tone is accompanied by the animation of the stage automatons. The «Napoleon» is available in two limited editions of 8 pieces, an edition in Red Gold and an edition in Titanium. All unique, they are each differentiated by their decor.

Christophe Claret Napoleon red gold

Christophe Claret Napoleon casebackDriven by NBC98 caliber, the Christophe Claret Napoleon sets the tone in the family of traditional complications watches, the first of the four collections of the brand. It is inspired by previous creations by the master watchmaker, while once again pushing the limits of what is possible in this area.

With a frequency of 3 hertz (21,600 vibrations per hour) by means of its flying tourbillon, the NBC98caliber comes to life thanks to a single barrel. The mechanism has a power reserve of around 60 hours. The activation of the minute repeater is traditionally made through a sliding pusher on the left side of the case. We can therefore contemplate the animation of the Jaquemart automata, while listening the melodious sound of time by the Westminster cathedral ringing.

Christophe Claret Napoleon titanium

Christophe Claret Napoleon titanium case backChristophe Claret is the designer of this four-branch balance wheel which offers an inertia / weight ratio close to the ideal balance: although very complex to manufacture, this aerodynamic balance is easy to adjust and balance.

The «cathedral» stamps of Napoleon’s «Westminster» ringing have been the subject of special care -as always with Christophe Claret. This type of bell has the particularity of going around the movement twice in order to express sounds that are longer, clearer and more powerful. Excellence is required for their manufacture in drawn steel, for their assembly and tuning. They benefit from a patented in-house invention which blocks significant vibrations despite their exceptional lengths and thus prohibits all parasitic noises.

Christophe Claret Napoleon

Christophe Claret NapoleonThe case harmoniously combines the polished and satin finishes of 5N red gold or titanium, highlighting the play of lights.

Grade 5 titanium is hard and very difficult to machine, it has the advantage of being extremely light and above all of sublimating the transmission of the ringing sound. The dial also magnifies the light and dark, with its unique nuances of hues and personalized materials.

Christophe Claret Napoleon

Christophe Claret NapoleonThe Napoleon watch displays a handmade miniature painting of a different battle setting on each of the 8 unique pieces.

Technical details

Model: Christophe Claret Napoleon

Movement
Caliber NBC98, mechanical, hand-wound movement
Diameter: 37.00 mm
Height: 9.03mm (without hands)
Components: 511
Jewels: 36
Barrel: Single mainspring barrel
Power reserve: Approximately 60 hours
Escapement: Swiss lever
Frequency: 3 Hz (21’600 vph)
Flying tourbillon with cage bridge decorated with the Legion of Honor
Tourbillon rotates once every 60 seconds

Functions
Hours, minutes
Hours, quarters and minutes repeater on demand
Inertia wheel
4-note minute repeater playing Westminster chime
4-jaquemart automata animated when ringing

Operating devices
Slide to activate the minute repeater function
2-position crown
– Drawn: time setting
– Thrust: winding the movement

Case
Diameter: 47mm
Height: 15 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft

Editions

Christophe Claret Napoleon Titanium, MTR.NBC98

Case: Grade 5 titanium
Dial: hand painting
Hands: Steel
Crown: Grade 5 titanium
Strap: Embossed Vegetable leather
Edition: 8 unique pieces
Price: CHF 590’000(excluding taxes)

Christophe Claret Napoleon Red Gold, MTR.NBC98

Case: 5N red gold
Dial: hand painting
Hands: Gold
Crown: 5N red gold
Strap: Embossed Vegetable leather
Edition: 8 unique pieces
Price: CHF 590’000 (excluding taxes)

Christophe Claret Concertino

Christophe Claret Concertino is an Haute Horlogerie minute-repeater watch featuring a completely redesigned movement with a unique regulator.

It belongs to the family of traditional complications watches, the first of the four collections of the independent Swiss brand. It is inspired by previous creations by Christophe Claret, while once again pushing the limits of what is possible in this area. Its CRM89 caliber is an entirely redesigned composition, from the mainplate to the bridges, including the flywheel which regulates the minute repeater mechanism.

Christophe Claret Concertino watch red gold version

With a frequency of 3 hertz (21,600 vibrations per hour), this single barrel mechanical-hand wound movement provides a power reserve of around 60 hours. The minute repeater activation is traditionally made through a sliding pusher on the left side of the case. The choreography of the two hammers is visible through the sapphire crystal back of the watch.

Christophe Claret Concertino red gold watch case back view

Christophe Claret is the designer of this four-branch balance wheel which offers an inertia / weight ratio close to the ideal balance: although very complex to manufacture, this aerodynamic balance is easy to adjust and balance.

Special care has been taken in the Concertino “Cathedral” bells. This type of bell has the particularity of going around the movement twice in order to produce melodies that are longer, clearer and more powerful.

Christophe Claret Concertino red gold minute repeater watch

Excellent technical-know is required for their manufacture in drawn steel, for their assembly and tuning. They benefit from a patented in-house invention which blocks significant vibrations despite their exceptional lengths and thus prohibits all parasitic noises. The balance cockbridge has a micrometric adjustment system that is also patented.

Concertino is available in 5N red gold or grade-5 titanium, and its fully customizable dial makes it unique each time. Measuring 45mm in diameter, the case harmoniously combines the polished and satin finishes of 5N red gold or titanium, highlighting the play of lights.

Christophe Claret Concertino titanium watch

Christophe Claret Concertino features a large dial, set with an immense sapphire crystal under a finely satin-brushed bezel. The dial (enamelled, engraved, set and / or guilloché) also magnifies the light and dark, with its unique nuances of hues and personalized materials.

Christophe Claret Concertino titanium case back

The early Concertinos display an ornamental hand engraving (nearly 1.5 mm) of two dragons – protectors of the Sun, an 8 mm pigeon’s blood ruby, in its rose gold livery or protectors of the Earth, a sapphire 8 mm blue, in its titanium livery.

Christophe Claret Concertino minute repeater watch titanium case

The transparent case-back affords the view of the exceptional architecture of the movement. On the back side, the watch features the famous stepped and skeletonized Charles X bridges, signatures of Christophe Claret. The movement is in micro-blasted and rhodium-plated nickel silver for the Concertino grade 5 titanium version, or 4N red gold plated for the 5N Gold Concertino version.

Technical details

Model: Christophe Claret Concertino

Movement
Caliber: CRM89, mechanical, hand-wound movement
Diameter: 34.00 mm
Height: 6.70 mm (without hands)
Components: 376
Jewels: 33
Barrel: Single mainspring barrel
Power reserve: Approximately 60 hours
Escapement: Swiss lever
3 Hz frequency (21’600 vph)
Features: Charles X style skeletonized, stepped bridges
Charles X cockbridge with patented micrometric adjustment system
Minute-repeater with Cathedral bells with patented noise reducer

Functions
Hours, minutes
Hours, quarters and minutes repeater on demand
Inertia wheel

Case
Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 12.90 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft

Versions

Christophe Claret Concertino Grade 5 titanium, reference MTR.CRM89.900

Case: Grade 5 titanium
Dial: Ornamental engraved dragons with “grand feu” enamel, Blue Sapphire
Hands: Steel and blue sapphire
Crown: Grade 5 titanium
Strap: Alligator
Edition: Unique piece
Price: CHF 348’000 (excluding taxes)

Christophe Claret Concertino 5N red gold, reference MTR.CRM89.901

Case: 5N red gold
Dial: Ornamental engraved dragons with “grand feu” enamel, Pigeon’s blood red ruby
Hands: Steel and red sapphire
Crown: 5N red gold
Strap: Alligator
Edition: Unique piece
Price: CHF 378’000 (excluding taxes)

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 Azteca & X-TREM-1Calavera

Taking inspiration from the ancient Mexican culture and traditions, the Independent Swiss luxury watch manufacture Christophe Claret has created two unique pieces of its X-TREM-1 watch.

The X-TREM-1 Azteca

The X-TREM-1 Azteca incorporates an iconic work of Aztec art in the form of the “Stone of the Sun” in relief, made of solid gold and entirely hand-engraved.

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 Azteca

This unique piece is made with 5N red gold and black grade 5 PVD titanium. The sapphire tubes have been replaced by cylindrical ring-bound tubes housing mobile stainless steel spheres indicating the time.

The X-TREM-1 Calavera

Calavera is a unique celebration of remembering the departed. Held every year in November since ancient times, this emblematic celebration of Mexican culture inspired Christophe Claret for this new version of the X-TREM-1 watch. A fully diamonds set skull, with an octagonal emerald, pigeon’s blood ruby eyes and the tourbillon enhanced with an emerald, symbol of el dia de los muertos, takes place on this new X-TREM-1. The beads, indicating the time, have been revised in the colors of Mexico.

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 Calavera

Driven as ever by a determination to present avant-garde timepieces, Christophe Claret has selected black grade 5 PVD titanium to make the case of this new version of the X-TREM-1. The sapphire tubes have been replaced by cylindrical ring-bound tubes housing mobile stainless steel spheres indicating the time.

About X-TREM-1 collection

The Extreme Complications Watches line expresses Christophe Claret’s determination to continue pushing the boundaries of mechanical watch making, integrating certain fields of research never previously applied in this domain. X-TREM-1 is a fine example of this approach that involves using a system driven by magnetic fields display the hours and minutes.

The challenge was bold and some might say a little crazy: How could someone possibly think about introducing a magnetic field – the arch enemy of horological mechanisms – into the heart of a watch?

The Christophe Claret team has done just that by creating a system where two small steel spheres – hollowed to make them lighter and encased within two tubes placed to the right and left of the caseband– are controlled by precision magnetic fields generated by two miniature magnets moved by cables.

The cables are incredibly flexible, made from hundreds of Dyneema nanofibers all contained within an ultra-high-strength polyethylene gel, capable of withstanding tensile forces of up to a kilo. The entire thread is thinner than a human hair. The resistance of the thread has been tested in the Manufacture Claret on an accelerated-wear simulator corresponding to60 years of operation.

The spheres have no mechanical connection with the movement, with each one floating inside the two tubes and creating outstanding horological magic. This technology was developed with the School of Business and Engineering Vaud (HEIG-VD) in Yverdon-les-Bains, and a team headed by Professor Besson.

The entire construction and finishing of this timepiece meets the extreme demands systematically imposed by Christophe Claret. Ultra-light titanium was used for the three-dimensional curvex main-plate and the bridges. The flying tourbillon is fitted with double ceramic bearings to enhance its shock-resistance. It is inclined at a 30-degree angle in order to make it even more clearly visible to the wearer.

The hand-wound watch draws its energy from two barrels enabling the use of a sophisticated display without disturbing the rate of the tourbillon, and thus the accuracy of the watch. The first barrel is reserved for the tourbillon, the second for the hours and minutes.

Technical details

Collection: X-TREM-1

Movement
Caliber FLY11 – mechanical, hand-wound movement
Dimensions: 26.60 x 46.40 x 11.94 mm
Number of components: 419
Number of jewels: 64
Power reserve: 50+ hours
Barrels: Dual barrels: one for the movement gear train, one for the time indications

Escapement
– Swiss lever
– Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
– Tourbillon rotates once every 60 seconds
– Flying tourbillon inclined at 30° supported by a double ceramic bearing, with cone-shaped pinion transmission

Functions
Mystery hours and minutes displayed with indications provided by hollowed steel spheres moving 23 mm inside two tubes. The metal spheres are driven by magnetic carriages following a thread.
Seconds displayed on the tourbillon cage
Movement state-of-wind indication
Fast time adjustment is via an integrated pusher on the caseband at 12 o’clock

Distinctive features
Use of precisely-shaped magnetic fields in a mechanical movement
No mechanical connection between the indications and the movement
Winding and time-setting via lift-out rotating “bows” on caseback
Skeletonized barrel

Case
Rectangular with curvex profile
Dimensions: 40.80 x 56.82 x 15 mm
Water resistance: 2 ATM / 20 m / 67 ft

Model: X-TREM-1 Azteca

Case
5N red gold and black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium with gold numerals, white gold cylindrical ring-bound tubes
5N red gold Aztec Sun Stone, handmade
Spheres: Stainless steel

Strap
Anthracite alligator

Edition
Unique Piece

Price
Price in Dollar (ex VAT): 326,000

Model: X-TREM-1 Calavera

Case
White gold and black PVD-treated grade-5 titanium with white Super-LumiNova® numerals
Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium cylindrical ring-bound tubes
White gold skull, eye in ruby, emerald and snow set diamonds
Tubes: 4 diamonds set
Spheres: Stainless steel, red-colored and green-colored
Lugs: White gold and snow set diamonds

Tourbillon
Emerald-set

Strap
Anthracite python

Edition
Unique Piece

Price
Price in Dollar (ex VAT): 490,000.

Christophe Claret Poker, New Model with Black PVD Titanium Case and Blue PVD Titanium Dial

Introduced in 2014, Poker is the third addition to Christophe Claret’s trilogy of gaming watches followed by the Blackjack and Baccara models. This year, Christophe Claret presents a new Poker version featuring black PVD-treated grade-5 titanium case and Blue PVD titanium dial.

The Poker watch houses an extremely sophisticated mechanism to reproduce the randomness of the game within a case just 45mm in diameter. For up to three players, there are an incredible number of game play possibilities.

Christophe Claret Poker, New Model with Black PVD Titanium Case and Blue PVD Titanium Dial

Poker was actually to be the first of the gaming timepieces launched by Manufacture Claret. While the game seems simple to organize on a table, its watchmaking version is an extreme test and no technical solution had been found until Mr Christophe Claret himself came up with the answer. While the first prototype was working in 2011, it required two years to perfect the intricate complication.

Devising the gearing and bringing it all together in a mechanical movement – in other words, orchestrating a complete 52-card game following the rules of poker – is a real feat, one which offers Haute Horlogerie exciting new technical prospects. In total, Poker packs in 32,768 different combinations, i.e. 98,304 combinations for three players. The probabilities have been calculated so that everyone has approximately the same chances of winning.

Christophe Claret Poker, New Model with Black PVD Titanium Case and Blue PVD Titanium Dial

Users can immerse themselves in real three-player games of the most popular variant of poker: Texas Hold’em. As a recap of the rules, a game of Texas Hold’em starts with two closed cards being dealt to each player, i.e. visible only to the player. Five other open cards are dealt out in stages: three, known as the flop, after the first betting round; an additional card, the turn, after another betting round; and finally a last, the river. To have the best hand in Texas Hold’em poker, the player must have the best possible combination of five cards from the seven in their hand.

This is how the PCK05 movement came into being. This completely original automatic-winding in-house caliber comprises no fewer than 655 components, and features two mainspring barrels that provide approximately 72 hours of power. Poker has not abandoned its time display role, with two central hands providing excellent legibility.

Christophe Claret Poker, New Model with Black PVD Titanium Case and Blue PVD Titanium Dial

Poker is the very first timepiece that manages to replicate the game in an automaton watch. The ease of use when playing Poker is as impressive and unexpected as its intrinsic complexity. Up to three players face each other around the watch. The first hand is dealt by means of a pusher at 9 o’clock. This winds up a spring, which simultaneously spins four concentric discs − one of which made from sapphire − on which the cards are printed. There is no way of speculating as to the position of the discs. After a few moments the discs are immobilized at random by dampers. All the discs are mounted on ceramic or ruby bearings so they turn as freely as possible.

Once the push-piece at 9 o’clock has been pressed, the now shuffled cards are dealt in windows at 6 o’clock, 10:30 and 2:30. An ingenious mechanism of angled shutters makes them invisible to the other players. After this first betting round, the pusher at 10 o’clock reveals the flop, i.e. three cards which appear on the left of the dial. Another push-piece at 8 o’clock then reveals the turn, one card on the right of the dial. Finally, the same push-piece deals out the river, also on the right of the dial. True to his mastery of chiming watches, Christophe Claret equipped Poker with a cathedral gong, which sounds whenever the flop and turn/river pushers are pressed. Now comes the showdown.

The dial of Poker is entirely made and assembled within Manufacture Claret and was designed to offer excellent legibility of both the time and the Poker game. The dial is animated, on this model, by tokens, cards and casino tip in 3D, that is all that is found on a Texas Holdem carpet, for more visual realism. Emblematic of the brand, the ruby and black PVD-treated titanium hands – among the most expensive to make because of the complexity of machining these precious materials – are enhanced by a luminescent coating. The hour indexes are on the bezel so as not to crowd the stage. Although the dial has an incredible 85 components, its balanced harmonious design ensures that the players are not distracted.

Christophe Claret Poker, New Model with Black PVD Titanium Case and Blue PVD Titanium Dial

This world of the casino even continues through to the back of the watch. The transparent case-back provides a view of the oscillating winding rotor in the form of a roulette wheel. This rotor design is already an icon of the Christophe Claret Interactive Gaming Complication collection.

Once activated by one or two shaking motions, the roulette turns for a few moments before stopping: no more bets please! An arrow points to one of the 37 numbers on an inner ring. Did your number come up by chance? If so, it may have been thanks to a special key opposite a green emerald set on the case-back. This personalization is much appreciated by those who believe in their lucky number.

This Poker is produced in a 12-piece limited edition.

Technical specifications

Reference: Christophe Claret Poker, MTR.PCK05.001-020

Movement
Caliber: PCK05, automatic-winding mechanical movement
Dimensions: 38.6 x 9.92 mm (with cathedral gong)
Number of components: 655
Number of jewels: 72
Double barrels
Power reserve: 72 hours (approx.)
Escapement: Swiss lever, 4 Hz /28,800 vph

Functions
Hour and minute display
2 games: Texas Hold’em Poker game with chime, and roulette wheel
Patented cathedral gong

Case
Black PVD-treated grade-5 titanium
Dimensions: 45 x 15.95 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
Crown: Black PVD-treated grade-5 titanium

Dial
Blue PVD titanium
Tokens: Anticorodal color anodized
Hands: Red ruby and black PVD-treated titanium, with Super-Luminova®

Strap
Black alligator

Edition
Limited edition of 12 pieces

Price
Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 164’000.-

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 – New Damascus Steel Editions

The Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 timepiece is now available in new versions enhanced with the damascened steel.

Christophe Claret’s X-TREM-1 is an extreme complications watch that represents a major technical and aesthetic accomplishment: a flying tourbillon inclined at a 30° angle, mounted on a three-dimensional curvex titanium main-plate, equipped with a retrograde hours and minutes display system that is radically different from existing watchmaking conventions. Two tiny hollowed steel spheres, isolated within sapphire tubes on the left and right sides of the caseband, magically move with no mechanical connection thanks to magnetic fields.

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 (New Damascus Steel Editions)

The X-TREM-1 watch incorporates a system driven by magnetic fields display the hours and minutes. It is an unorthodox concept to introduce magnetic field – the arch enemy of horological mechanisms – into the heart of a watch. The Christophe Claret team has done just that by creating a system where two small steel spheres – hollowed to make them lighter and encased within two sapphire tubes placed to the right and left of the case-band – are controlled by precision magnetic fields generated by two miniature magnets moved by cables.

The cables are incredibly flexible, made from hundreds of Dyneema nano-fibers all contained within an ultra-high-strength polyethylene gel, capable of withstanding tensile forces of up to a kilo. The entire thread is thinner than a human hair. The resistance of the thread has been tested in the Manufacture Claret on an accelerated-wear simulator corresponding to 60 years of operation.

The spheres have no mechanical connection with the movement, with each one floating inside the two tubes and creating outstanding horological magic. This extraordinary mechanism was developed in partnership with the School of Business and Engineering Vaud (HEIG-VD) in Yverdon-les-Bains, and a team headed by Professor Besson.

The entire construction and finishing of this timepiece meets the extreme demands systematically imposed by Christophe Claret. Ultra-light titanium was used for the three-dimensional curvex mainplate and the bridges. The flying tourbillon is fitted with double ceramic bearings to enhance its shock-resistance. It is inclined at a 30-degree angle in order to make it even more clearly visible to the wearer. The hand-wound watch draws its energy from two barrels enabling the use of a sophisticated display without disturbing the rate of the tourbillon, and thus the accuracy of the watch. The first barrel is reserved for the tourbillon, the second for the hours and minutes.

New Damascened Steel Versions

A keen student of history, Christophe Claret felt it would be an interesting exercise to craft the case of the X-TREM-1 – the most innovative and contemporary model in his collection – from damascened steel produced using ancestral methods.

Damascened steel was first made in the Caucasus around 2500 BC, soon after the discovery of iron, and subsequently spread throughout Europe as well as to Asia. Damascened steel is traditionally produced by layer-assembling two types of steel. Several successive forging and folding steps result in a piece of metal that may comprise several hundreds of layers. This extremely technical high-end alloy boasts excellent properties: a homogenous structure, pure material, as well as extreme resistance to corrosion and shocks.

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 (New Damascus Steel Editions)

The X-TREM-1 blue Damascus edition boasts a pleasing aesthetic alliance between Blue PVD titanium and blue PVD damascened steel. Driven as ever by a determination to present avant-garde timepieces, PVD-treated grade-5 titanium and damascened steel were the metals chosen to make the case of this new version of the X-TREM-1.

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 (New Damascus Steel Editions)

The X-TREM-1 Damascus model in white gold with Damascus steel features black lacquer numerals and black chrome-treated stainless steel spheres. The 5N red gold with damascened steel version features 5N red gold numerals and 4N pink gold-colored stainless steel spheres.

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 (New Damascus Steel Editions)

For these new X-TREM-1 models, the grades of steel used are 316L and 304L. The difficulty lay in introducing gold or lacquer into damascened steel for the time indication, and the second challenge involved actually machining the case from the extremely resistant damascened steel, and especially to develop specific tools, capable of machining the damask composed of two different stainless steels.

Each X-Trem-1 edition is produced in an 8-piece limited edition.

Technical Specifications

Movement

Caliber: FLY11 – mechanical, hand-wound movement
Dimensions: 26.6 x 46.4 x 11.94 mm
Number of components: 419
Number of jewels: 64
Power reserve: 50+ hours
Barrels: Dual barrels: one for the movement gear train, one for the time indications

Escapement
Swiss lever
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
Tourbillon rotates once every 60 seconds
Flying tourbillon inclined at 30° supported by a double ceramic bearing, with cone-shaped pinion transmission

Functions
Mystery hours and minutes displayed with indications provided by hollowed steel spheres moving 23 mm inside two cylindrical sapphire tubes. The metal spheres are driven by magnetic carriages following a thread.
Seconds displayed on the tourbillon cage
Movement state-of-wind indication
Fast time adjustment is via an integrated pusher on the caseband at 12 o’clock
Quick time correction per pusher at 12 o’clock (Tboard Key)

Distinctive features
Use of precisely-shaped magnetic fields in a mechanical movement
No mechanical connection between time indications and the movement
Winding and time-setting via lift-out rotating “bows” on caseback
Skeletonized barrel

Case
Rectangular with curvex profile
Dimensions: 40.80 x 56.82 x 15 mm
Water resistance: 2 ATM / 20 m / 67 ft

Models

 X-Trem-1, Reference: MTR.FLY11.180-188

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 (New Damascus Steel Editions)

  • Material: Titanium PVD Blue and damascened steel blue with black lacquer numerals; Sapphire tubes
  • Spheres: Orange-colored stainless steel
  • Strap: Blue alligator
  • 8- Piece limited series
  • Price in Swiss Francs (ex VAT): 268’000.-

 X-Trem-1, Reference: MTR.FLY11.130-138

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 (New Damascus Steel Editions)

  • Material: White gold and damascened steel with black lacquer numerals; Sapphire tubes
  • Spheres: Black chrome-treated stainless steel
  • Strap: Anthracite alligator
  • 8-piece limited series
  • Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 272,000.-

 X-Trem-1, Reference: MTR.FLY11.140-148

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 (New Damascus Steel Editions)

  • Material: 5N red gold and damascened steel with 5N red gold numerals; Sapphire tubes
  • Spheres: 4N pink gold-colored stainless steel
  • Strap: Anthracite alligator
  • 8-piece limited series
  • Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 268,000.-

Know more about Christophe Claret watch brand.

Discover more Christophe Claret watches.

Christophe Claret Maestro Quetzalcóatl Limited Edition

Christophe Claret has created a masterpiece to honour one of ancient Mexico’s main deities: the Quetzalcoatl watch, available as a limited edition of 8 pieces. Engraved by hand in meticulous detail, the feathered serpent is skilfully incorporated around the Maestro’s movement.

Quetzalcoatl, the important Aztec deity – patron of the priesthood, inventor of the calendar and protector of craftsmen – proudly snakes across the Maestro’s movement. This feathered serpent can be glimpsed between the hour and minute hands, the indicator for the MEMO function, and the spring balance. This divinity, embodied by a feathered serpent, is now shrouded in mystery within the heart of this new Maestro.

Christophe Claret Maestro Quetzalcóatl Limited Edition

The Maestro watch was a natural choice to accommodate the rippling coils of the Quetzalcóatl snake. Following the model unveiled in 2017 and infusing a new dynamic into the Tradition collection, the Maestro Quetzalcóatl appeals through both its shape and its proportions, including the pure and powerful lines of its 42 mm black PVD-treated titanium case topped by an impressive sapphire crystal dome.

A boldly contemporary model intended for trendsetters and influencers, the Maestro offers a spectacular view of the movement and the snake’s sinuous body, which may be admired from every angle and along every sleek scale. The Maestro is also ideal because of its hand-wound movement, whose skilfully arranged components are displayed in all their glorious technical profusion, vividly reflecting that of a luxuriant jungle.

The overall construction is revealed through a multi-dimensional architecture. Like all timepieces by Christophe Claret, the Maestro showcases a wealth of details mingling technical and aesthetic elements in an exceptionally coherent manner.

Brand enthusiasts will recognize the watchmaker’s inimitable touch in the famous Charles X stepped and skeletonized bridges – with 26 interior angles – that have become a signature of the Maison. The skeleton-working of the bridge supporting the escapement represents a clever blend of classicism and modernity that affords a chance to appreciate all its subtle features.

The visual adventure through the intricacies of the movement continues with two series-coupled barrels ensuring optimal efficiency and majestically positioned at 12 o’clock. Here too, the bridges are skeletonized to provide an exemplary view of the blade spring of the first barrel and thus enable the wearer of the watch to gauge the state of the seven-day power reserve.

Christophe Claret Maestro Quetzalcóatl Limited Edition

In terms of horological complications, the Maestro Quetzalcóatl once again illustrates the creative audacity cultivated by Christophe Claret. Witness the patented large date display at 5 o’clock, composed of two cones – one for the tens on the upper part and the second for the units – and performing a semi-instantaneous jump between midnight and twenty past midnight. As if to echo the 3D effect of this voluminous date display, the Maestro’s characteristic MEMO function appears between 3 and 4 o’clock.

Inspired by the expression “tie a knot in your handkerchief” to help one remember something important, the MEMO is an ingenious mechanical reminder intended for absent-minded individuals as well as fans of technical gadgets. Whatever daily objective the owner of the Maestro has set himself, the MEMO is there to remind him of his commitments.

In the initial position, meaning when the owner must do something, a tsavorite appears at 6 o’clock on the side face of the MEMO, like the gem set at its top. Once the objective has been met, a simple press on the pusher at 2 o’clock pivots the MEMO function, which will display a diamond on its side face at 6 o’clock, instead of the tsavorite. The MEMO will return to its initial position each night in a twenty-minute process driven by a semi-instantaneous jump system.

Technical details

Model: Christophe Claret Maestro Quetzalcóatl Limited Edition
Reference: MTR.DMC16.320-328

Movement
Caliber DMC16, mechanical hand-wound
Diameter: 36.25 mm
Thickness: 10.50 mm (without the hands)
Number of components: 349
Number of jewels: 33
Barrels: Two series-mounted barrels
Power reserve: 7 days (approx. 168 hours)

Escapement
– Swiss lever escapement
– Balance-wheel with countersunk screws
– Balance-wheel oscillation frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)

Aesthetic features
– Stepped and skeletonized Charles X style bridges
– Skeletonized barrel
– 26 interior angles

Functions
Pointer-type display of the hours and minutes
Pyramid-shaped large date display at 5 o’clock, with tens on the upper cone and units on the lower cone
MEMO function between 3 and 4 o’clock: cone shape adorned with a natural ruby and a diamond serving to remind the wearer of a commitment

Case
Grade 5 titanium
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 16.06 mm
Water resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)
Crown: Black PVD-treated stainless steel, with cabochon-cut tsavorite

Dial
Hands: Black chrome-plated, green-lacquered sapphire with Super-LumiNova®
Snake: 4N pink gold, Quetzacoalt (green)

Strap
Green snake Elaphe

Edition
Limited series of 8 pieces

Retail price
Price excluding tax in Swiss francs: 96’000 CHF

Christophe Claret Maestro Corail Unique Piece for Only Watch 2019 Charity Auction

For the fourth consecutive year, Christophe Claret is supporting the Monaco Association against Muscular Dystrophy (AMM) and donating a timepiece to Only Watch for its eighth edition: Maestro Corail, a formidable timepiece by nature.

This altruistic momentum has driven Christophe Claret to take an authentic artistic approach in giving life to the Maestro Corail watch. Inspired by the Maestro Mamba watch that is part of the collection, this timepiece is unique, resulting from a blend of fine craftsmanship and aesthetic creativity.

Christophe Claret is a born provocateur, now venturing into the perilous wilds of the tropical forests by placing the voluptuous undulations of a coral snake at the heart of the Maestro watch.

This brightly colored, swift and incomparably aggressive snake appears ready to strike anyone who comes within reach of its toxic venom.

Wrapped around the movement, its undulating hand-engraved body creates a powerful contrast between the tangy blue and orange brilliancy of its scales and the matt black shade of then movement. Surging from the intricacies of the movement, between the hours and minutes hands, the MEMO function indicator and the sprung balance, the coral snake defies all challengers with its piercing eyes.

Christophe Claret Maestro Corailn Unique Piece for Only Watch 2019 Charity AuctionThe Maestro watch was a natural choice to accommodate the rippling coils of the coral snake. This watch appeals through both its shape and its proportions, including the pure and powerful lines of its 42 mm black PVD-treated titanium case topped by an impressive sapphire crystal dome.

A boldly contemporary model intended for trendsetters and influencers, this model offers a spectacular view of the movement and the snake’s sinuous body, which may be admired from every angle and along every sleek scale. It is also ideal because of its hand-wound movement, whose skillfully arranged components are displayed in all their glorious technical profusion, vividly reflecting that of a luxuriant forest.

The overall construction is revealed through a multi-dimensional architecture. Like all timepieces by Christophe Claret, the Maestro showcases a wealth of details mingling technical and aesthetic elements in an exceptionally coherent manner. Brand enthusiasts will recognize the watchmaker’s inimitable touch in the famous Charles X stepped and skeletonized bridges – with 26 interior angles – that have become a signature of the Maison. The skeleton-working of the bridge supporting the escapement represents a clever blend of classicism and modernity that affords a chance to appreciate all its subtle features.

Christophe Claret Maestro Corailn Unique Piece for Only Watch 2019 Charity Auction

The visual adventure through the intricacies of the movement continues with two series-coupled barrels ensuring optimal efficiency and majestically positioned at 12 o’clock. Here too, the bridges are skeletonized to provide an exemplary view of the blade spring of the first barrel and thus enable the wearer of the watch to gauge the state of the seven-day power reserve.

In terms of horological complications, the Maestro Corail once again illustrates the creative audacity cultivated by Christophe Claret. Witness the patented large date display at 5 o’clock, composed of two cones – one for the tens on the upper part and the second for the units – and performing a semi-instantaneous jump between midnight and twenty past midnight. As if to echo the 3D effect of this voluminous date display, the Maestro’s characteristic MEMO function appears between 3 and 4 o’clock.

Inspired by the expression “tie a knot in your handkerchief” to help one remember something important, the MEMO is an ingenious mechanical reminder intended for absent-minded individuals as well as fans of technical gadgets. Whatever daily objective the owner of the Maestro has set himself, the MEMO is there to remind him of his commitments. In the initial position, meaning when the owner must do something, an orange sapphire appears at 6 o’clock on the side face of the MEMO.

Once the objective has been met, a simple press on the pusher at 2 o’clock pivots the MEMO function, which will display a blue sapphire on its side face at 6 o’clock, like the gem set at its top. The MEMO will return to its initial position each night in a twenty-minute process driven by a semi-instantaneous jump system.

Technical details

Model: Christophe Claret Maestro Corail Unique Piece for Only Watch 2019 Charity Auction, Reference: MTR.DMC16.907

Movement
Caliber: DMC16, mechanical hand-wound
Diameter: 36.25 mm
Thickness: 10.50 mm (without the hands)
Number of components: 349
Number of jewels: 33
Barrels: Two series-mounted barrels
Power reserve: 7 days (approx. 168 hours)

Escapement
– Swiss lever escapement
– Balance-wheel with countersunk screws
– Balance-wheel oscillation frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)

Aesthetic features:
– Stepped and skeletonized Charles X style bridges
– Skeletonized barrel
-26 interior angles

Functions
Pointer-type display of the hours and minutes
Pyramid-shaped large date display at 5 o’clock, with tens on the upper cone and units on the lower cone
MEMO function between 3 and 4 o’clock: cone shape adorned with an orange or blue sapphire serving to remind the wearer of a commitment

Case
Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 16.06 mm
Water resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)
Crown: Black PVD-treated stainless steel, with cabochon-cut blue sapphire

Dial
Hands: Black chrome-plated, blue-lacquered sapphire with Super-LumiNova®
Snake: 4N pink gold, hand-painted in blue and orange

Strap
Blue snakeskin

Edition
Unique piece