Patek Philippe At the Rare Watches Autumn auction on 8 November this year, Christie’s Geneva will be offering the first example of “L’Heure d’Or”, Patek Philippe’s Ref. 2523 two crown world time.
This extremely fine and highly important Patek Philippe is the first example of a 18k gold two crown world-time wristwatch with 24 hours indication and first time seen waved guilloché gold centre (outer silvered revolving ring with names of 41 world cities adjusted by the crown at 9).
This is the very earliest specimen of the Patek Philippe’s Ref. 2523 two crown world time wristwatch ever made. Furthermore, the beautiful gold guilloche dial is not known on any other yellow gold example of the reference.
Never before seen at auction, the present watch can be considered an exemplar of Patek Philippe’s 1950s ‘golden age, when design, craftsmanship and technological advancement coincided to create perfection. Being the earliest reference 2523 to be manufactured, this historic watch has an immense status even amongst the ultra-rare two crown world time model and can be considered as the cornerstone watch of the entire reference.
Patek Philippe’s two-crown reference 2523 is one of the ultimate world-class rarities, sitting alongside the other Patek Philippe wristwatch legends such as the steel reference 1518 and the first series 2499. Reinforcing its importance is the fact that it was made in extremely small numbers, a total of only 26 examples were made in either yellow or pink gold and one example in white gold.
Until the discovery of the present watch, the earliest known case number was 306’193. The present watch with case number 305’699 is also fitted with the earliest movement number 720’300. Whilst undoubtedly the first ever production watch of reference 2523, it was perhaps also the last ‘prototype’ piece for the final design.
Signed Patek Philippe, Genève, Ref. 2523, movement no. 720’300, case no. 305’699, manufactured in 1953.
Two historical rarities will be offered in Christie’s Hong Kong Important Watches auction on 27 November: an extremely historically important Patek Philippe split-second chronograph Ref. 1436 in 18K yellow gold from 1946, ordered by and sold to Henry Graves Jr. alongside a 18k gold and enamel, pearl-set musical, perfume flask and automaton amphora-form watch attributed to Piguet & Capt, a magnificent piece presented for the first time at auction.
Patek Philippe Split-Second Chronograph Ref. 1436 in 18K Yellow Gold
Henry Graves Jr., the legendary patron of Patek Philippe, ordered this 18k gold split second chronograph wristwatch with Breguet numerals in 1946 and acquired it in 1947.
Ref.1436 is Patek Philippe’s first split seconds chronograph wristwatch produced in series. The first generation, of which this watch is a part, was made until the late 1940s. Since its introduction to the market in 1938 and discontinued in 1971, only 140 examples are made during the 33 years production period.
As one of the finest examples to ever appear on the market, the present example features applied gold Breguet numerals, often considered the most attractive dial variation. It is also thought to be the least-commonly made dial for this reference, with most examples featuring baton or a combination of baton and Arabic numerals.
To date, just over a dozen of Ref. 1436 models have surfaced featuring such a dial. This extremely rare and historical timepiece is a true rarity as it last appeared at auction about ten years ago.
Attributed to Piguet & Capt., this 18k gold and enamel, pearl-set musical, perfume flask and automaton amphora-form watch is believed to be made for the Chinese imperial family, in circa 1805. It is known that its twin is stored and exhibited in the Patek Philippe museum.
The last amphora-form watch seen at auction was May 2021 at Christie’s Hong Kong ; attributed to Jean-François-Adam Hess, it was sold for HK$ 12,250,000/ US$ 1,584,735.
The upcoming Christie’s Watches Online: The Dubai Edit auction will offer 211 exceptional lots including the Patek Philippe Ref. 5102G ‘Celestial, the Richard Mille RM 011 Felipe Massa Titanium UAE Edition Flyback Chronograph, and the Pink Gold Rolex Ref. 6232 Chronograph.
Lot 5: Patek Philippe Ref. 5102G Celestial, Circa 2008
Launched in 2002, the Ref. 5102G Celestial white gold astronomical wristwatch borrows the principle of the celestial canopy from the most complicated wristwatch ever produced by Patek Philippe – the Ref. 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon.
The nocturnal sky of the northern hemisphere rotates to show the apparent angular motion of the stars and moon as well as the progression of the phases of the moon. A delicate elliptical contour on the inside of the glass frames the portion of the sky that can be seen from all cities on the same latitude as the city of Geneva. Estimate: US$ 200,000-300,000.
Lot 106: Patek Philippe Ref. 1518
The Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 gold perpetual calendar chronograph was the first perpetual chronograph to be made in series by any watch company. Ref. 1518 was not only a design first with its simple and pure layout but would set the mould for all future perpetual calendar chronographs.
Only 281 examples of this reference were ever made and this particular example comes in 18K yellow gold and was produced in 1945. Interestingly, it features the old Patek Philippe & Cie. full signature, which is highly sought after by collectors, and exists only on timepieces produced before 1947. Estimate: US$ 350,000-450,000.
Lot 110: Patek Philippe Reference 3979, circa 1991
The reference 3979 was introduced as part of a celebratory timepiece series marking the 150th anniversary of the manufacture. The ref. 3979 was produced between 1989 and 2002 and it is believed that about 100 pieces were made with the majority in yellow gold.
The initial batch of watches featured a case made by the legendary casemaker Jean-Pierre Hagmann and his initials JPH are stamped on the inside case back. Estimate: US$ 220,000-300,000.
Lot 111: Patek Philippe Ref. 5013P, circa 2010
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5013P is a platinum minute repeater perpetual calendar watch with a retrograde indication. It is among the most complex wristwatches ever made by the Geneva ‘Maison’ and the first automatic minute repeater perpetual calendar with retrograde date function.
The watch’s design was a nod to the historically important tonneau-shaped yellow gold minute repeating wristwatch no. 97589 made for Henry Graves, Jr. The reference 5013 was launched in 1992 and remained in production until 2011. The platinum examples were initially produced only with silver dials and over the years only a few examples with a black dial have appeared on the market. Estimate: US$ 300,000-400,000.
Lot 11: Rolex Daytona Ref. 6240 ‘Solo’, circa 1966
The Rolex Daytona Ref. 6240 ‘Solo’ is one of the rarest vintage Daytona references. ‘Solo’ refers to the fact that the dial only carries the mark ‘Rolex’ and not the usual description ‘Oyster Chronograph’ seen on the other Ref. 6240 models.
The watch world speculates that only a small number of early Ref. 6240 models (between the serial number ranging from 1.2 million to 1.4 million) were fitted with this dial. The reference 6240 was the first waterproof Daytona and featured an acrylic bezel and screw-down chronograph pushers. Estimate: US$ 120,000-180,000.
Lot 82: Rolex Ref. 4062
The Rolex Ref. 4062, a yellow gold, anti-magnetic, manual-winding chronograph, is an elegant and sophisticated timepiece distinguished by its coin-edge case band.
The Ref. 4062 was a huge success for Rolex when it was produced and is a good example of the dressy chronographs made by the brand in the early 1940s. Estimate: US$ 20,000-30,000.
Lot 83: Rolex Chronograph Ref. 6232, circa 1958
The Rolex Chronograph Ref. 6232 in pink gold is so rare that only a handful of examples have appeared on the market over the last 50 years. Produced in 1958, it is one of Rolex’s rarest chronograph models.
Made for the French market, it is believed to exist only in an exceedingly small number of 12 examples. This watch has silvered sunburst dial with blue telemetry scale and has over time developed a charming champagne-tone patina. Estimate: US$ 100,000-150,000.
Lot 6: Richard Mille RM 011 Felipe Massa UAE Edition
The extremely rare Richard Mille RM 011 Felipe Massa UAE Edition flyback chronograph in titanium is based on the original RM 011 featuring a distinctive All Gray PVD treatment and case of microblasted titanium. The exclusive edition, limited to just 7 pieces, was created in partnership with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, one of the largest watch retailers in the UAE.
The case is typical of Richard Mille’s tonneau with a curved bezel, sides and case back. The watch is being offered for the very first time at auction, with an estimate of US$ 200,000-300,000.
Lot 26: Richard Mille RM 055 Bubba Watson, circa 2014
The Richard Mille RM 055 Bubba Watson watch features a titanium case and ceramic skeleton dial. In 2011, Richard Mille undertook the challenge of creating a watch for golfers, working with PGA Tour player and two-time Masters winner Bubba Watson.
Based on the RM 038 Richard Mille took its original design a step further in 2012 and created the present model, RM 055. The case consists of different materials. The bezel is made of ATZ, known for colour stability and for being one of the hardest materials in the world. Grade 5 titanium is used for the case band and back as the key focus of the Richard Mille manufacture was to optimise weight: the movement weighs a mere 4.3 grams. Estimate: US$ 300,000-500,000.
Lot 22: Cartier Tank Monopusher Chronograph, circa 2008
This limited-edition Cartier Tank Monopusher Chronograph in gold is part of Cartier’s CPCP collection of watches that are based on historic Cartier designs but equipped with modern mechanical movements. The watches in this collection were available between 1998 and 2008 in very limited numbers.
This particular model is powered by Calibre 045 MC, produced by THA Ebauche, a collaborative founded by three modern watchmakers: FP.Journe, Denis Flageollet (co-founder of De Bethune) and Vianney Halter. Estimate: US$ 15,000-30,000.
Lot 71: Panerai Luminor GMT Prototype
The prototype (No. 000/200) of the steel Panerai Luminor GMT limited edition was created to mark the 50th anniversary of the United Arab Emirates.
Proceeds from the sale of this watch will benefit the Noor Foundation, a UAE-based non-profit organization that aims to eliminate all types of avoidable blindness and visual impairment worldwide. Estimate: US$ 10,000-20,000.
Watches Online: The Dubai Edit will be on view between 13 – 27 October at Christie’s, Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC), Gate Village 5, Podium Level.
Christie’s has announced that the ‘Rare Watches Auction Geneva’ will be held on 8 November 2021 at the Hotel Four Seasons Les Bergues.
This landmark auction will offer several extraordinary and rare timepieces, including the legendary Rolex Experimental Deep Sea Special N°1.
This Holy Grail watch is the first and only Rolex Deep Sea Special that made the first dive attached to Auguste Piccard’s bathyscaphe Trieste in 1953. The case, the original movement and the bracelet of this historic timepiece are in perfect working condition.
Developed as a prototype for perfecting the Rolex diving watch concept, this Rolex Deep Sea Special N°1 was attached to the hull of Auguste Piccard’s bathyscaphe Trieste for the inaugural deep-sea trial to a depth of 3,150 meters in the Mediterranean on 30 September 1953.
This watch then served as the proving ground for the Rolex Deep Sea Special N°3 that would reach 10,908 meters in the Mariana Trench with the Trieste on 23 January 1960 and is today on display at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington DC.
It is believed that seven prototypes were built between 1953 and 1960. Among them, only three have so far been identified:
The Deep Sea Special N°1: This prototype has a ‘low glass’ made from Plexiglas. It accompanied Trieste on its first deep-sea trial down to 3,150 meters (10,245 feet) off the island of Ponza in 1953.
The Deep Sea Special N°3: This prototype features a ‘high glass’ (a taller and thicker crystal, also of Plexiglas, one of the invaluable learnings from N°1). It made the trip down to the bottom of the Mariana Trench (10,916 meters, 35,814 feet) in 1960 and is today out of reach but on display, together with the Trieste, at the Smithsonian Institute in Washington DC.
The Deep Sea Special N°5: Also a ‘high glass’ version, which presumably served as a proving ground for further extreme testing in the period leading up to 1960, and was offered at auction by Christie’s in 2000.
In the early to mid-1960s, to celebrate the dive down to the world’s deepest place and after the unexpected worldwide success and enthusiasm that this event generated, Rolex produced about three dozen display models to share their exploit and know-how with the public. In 2009, Number 31 of this commercial/promotional series was sold by Christie’s.
In the early 1950s, Swiss physicist-inventor-explorer Auguste Piccard began developing a deep-sea vehicle for exploring ocean depths. Using the physical principles of his stratospheric balloon, particularly with regard to pressurization, Auguste and his son Jacques developed a submarine to reach the deepest trough at the bottom of the ocean. Their strange-looking deep-sea submarine known as bathyscaphe Trieste was launched on the 16th of August in 1953.
Christie’s Hong Kong has kick-started an online auction named The Marvel(ous) Sale since 24 August. This online bidding will be active until 7 September. The star lot of the sale is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther” Flying Tourbillon, the first example to be offered for sale at auction globally.
It is worth to note that a one-off version of the same model, created to raise funds for two charities, First Book and Ashoka, sold for US$ 5.2 million, making it the most expensive Audemars Piguet model ever sold.
(1) LOT 46 – The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther” Flying Tourbillon
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther” Flying Tourbillon was unveiled at a star-studded event in April 2021. Its release followed the announcement that the esteemed Manufacture from Le Brassus and Marvel would be collaborating moving forward.
Audemars Piguet unveiled the first Royal Oak Concept watch in 2002, marking the 30th anniversary of the groundbreaking Royal Oak. Conceived by the illustrious designer Gérald Genta and in its day considered avant-garde, when the Manufacture unveiled the inaugural Royal Oak Concept Ref 25980/D003, it looked positively space age by comparison.
This latter model, limited to 150 pieces, was endowed with an unusual power-reserve indicator displaying units around the circumference of the barrel. Other indications included a function selector and dynamograph. Lastly, the model featured a tourbillon, positioned at 9 o’clock. This watch embraced bold, avant-garde styling, characteristics that would be repeated on several occasions with the advent of further Royal Oak Concept models.
When Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther” Flying Tourbillon it perpetuated the revolutionary design of former Royal Oak Concept models. Its hand-painted white gold 3D Black Panther character, unconventional and elaborate titanium bridges as well as extensive use of vivid purple tones polarised opinion both in the media and among the watch collecting community. Estimate: HKD 3,000,000– 5,000,000 / US$ 380,000– 650,000.
(2) LOT 45 – Audemars Piguet Tropical Dial Royal Oak Ref. 5402ST
Audemars Piguet Tropical Dial Royal Oak Ref. 5402ST ‘A Series’ is much sought after by watch collectors and is becoming increasingly difficult to obtain. This particular example is particularly rare as it features a highly desirable ‘tropical’ dial.
Consistent with other steel ‘A Series’ models, the AP logo is positioned in the lower portion of the dial, located between the 9th and 11th line. The correct ‘SWISS’ text is stamped and sits below the index at 6 o’clock.
With the passage of time, the black dial has acquired unique areas of bronze-gold hues. When released, Audemars Piguet produced 2000 examples of the ‘A Series’ before it progressed to making the ‘B Series’. This particular example is 843/2000. Estimate: HKD 400,000–800,000 / US$ 50,000– 100,000.
The other interesting Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watches featured in this auction are two white gold, diamond-set ladies’ quartz watches (circa 1990 and 1997), a stainless steel 38mm triple calendar with yellow dial (circa 1990), an 18k yellow gold 30mm quartz watch with date (circa 1985) and a 36.5mm stainless steel automatic model with blue dial featuring dual time, power reserve and date (circa 2004).
(3) LOT 96 – Gérald Genta Minute Repeater with Jumping Hour and Retrograde Minutes
This rare Gérald Genta watch has an eye-catching green guilloché dial and platinum case with a distinctive ribbed profile. The model pairs one of the most technically challenging complications, a minute repeater, with two indications often associated with Mr Genta, jumping hours and retrograde minutes.
The minutes are presented on an arcing track. A lone hand sweeps clockwise from ‘0’ to ‘60’, before returning to its point of origin as the jumping hour, shown at 6 o’clock, advances forward. This particular composition expresses meaning with a notable flurry of style. Estimate: HKD 400,000–800,000 / US$ 50,000– 100,000.
Christie’s Hong Kong is also offering two more Gérald Genta masterpieces dating back to 1990.
The first one is an automatic perpetual calendar with moonphase wristwatch featuring a 33mm diameter round case made of 18K yellow gold and Onyx. It has a skeleton dial with centre hour and minute hands, three sub-dials in 18K gold for displaying perpetual calendar functions and a lapis lazuli sub-dial for moonphase display.
The second model is also a Gérald Genta automatic perpetual calendar moonphase watch with the similar dial style mentioned above, but with a 31mm diameter octagonal-shaped 18K yellow gold case.
(4) LOT 2 – Patek Philippe Steel Nautilus with Date Ref. 5711/1A-001
First released in 1976, this iconic luxury-sports watch has attracted numerous column inches and discussions relating to rocketing resale values pervade the collecting community. Moreover, with several references now discontinued, the pre-owned route is the only means of acquiring a coveted reference from yesteryear.
Housed in a 40mm stainless steel case with a black/blue dial the watch is equipped with an automatic movement and integrated stainless steel bracelet. Estimate: HKD 650,000 – 950,000 / US$ 85,000– 125,000.
(5) LOT 20 – Patek Philipe Chronograph Ref. 1579R with original certificate
This exquisite timepiece is housed in a pink gold case. With only 82 known examples of the Ref. 1579R produced in pink gold, this particular watch is very rare, and both gold marks remain visible. The watch is endowed with so-called ‘spider lugs’ and the dial exhibits a charming mellow aged appearance.
The two registers are encircled by applied pink gold Arabic numerals and square indexes. Unusually, the watch is supplied with the original ‘Certificate of Origin’. Estimate: HKD 1,300,000–2,000,000 / US$ 165,000– 250,000.
(6) LOT 1: Patek Philipe Platinum Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ref. 3939
This lot is possibly a unique Platinum Minute Repeater Tourbillon (ref. 3939) watch from Patek Philipe. Surprisingly, despite such complexity, the platinum case measures a modest 34mm in diameter. The enamel dial is dressed in black while the hours are denoted with white gold Breguet numerals. This latter combination differentiates this specific example from the ‘standard’ versions of the Ref. 3939 which came with a white enamel dial.
Indeed, this model, crafted in 1999, is believed to be one of only a few specimens equipped with a black dial. The ‘Certificate of Origin’ makes reference to the ‘émail noir’. Estimate: HKD 1,000,000–2,000,000 / US$ 130,000– 230,000.
(7) LOT 21 – Patek Philipe Platinum with Date Ref. 3445
Typically this reference was presented in a white or yellow gold case. However, this particular example is housed in platinum, making it one of the rarest and most coveted versions of the Ref. 3445. Its slender hour and minute hands perfectly harmonize with baton style indexes. The watch has a date display at 3 o’clock, and a small seconds above 6 o’clock.
The watch is equipped with the Caliber 27-460, an automatic movement produced by Patek Philippe and finished to the exacting standards of the Geneva Seal. Estimate: HKD 400,000–650,000 / US$ 50,000– 85,000.
In addition to the above lots, the other notable Patek Philipe wristwatches featured in this auction are:
A Steel Calatrava Pilot Travel Time (reference 7234) made to celebrate the Singapore Grand Exhibition 2019.
A stainless steel Annual Calendar Chronograph (ref. 5960) circa 2016.
An 18K Yellow Gold Calatrava (ref. 2508) dating back to 1959.
An Aquanaut 34mm Automatic stainless steel model with black dial (reference 5060 A, circa 1998).
An 18K Yellow Gold Annual Calendar with power reserve and moonphase (reference 5146/1J-001, circa 2008).
An 18K white gold and diamond-set, hand-wound time-only watch, circa 1990 (reference 3965/1).
A Manual-winding Calatrava Platinum time-only watch with an ivory-colored dial and diamond hour-markers, circa 1992 (reference 3796).
An 18K Yellow Gold Automatic Annual Calendar with 24H display (reference 5035) and white ceramic dial, circa 2004.
(8) LOT 177 – Rolex Ref. 8171 ‘Padellone’
This impressive pink gold example of the legendary Ref. 8171 ‘Padellone’ is one of only six examples to feature the ‘HL Mark II Officially Certified Chronometer’ type dial.
Indeed, only about 350 pieces were produced in pink gold over a 3 year period, and it is estimated that a mere 32 examples have appeared on the open market in the last 70 years. The case measures 38mm in diameter, which was considered large when it was produced.
The watch is equipped with dauphine-style hour and minute hands, lapped bullet-style indexes, a small seconds display above 6 o’clock and pointer-style date indication. Two calendar windows sit beneath the ‘tall’ Rolex crown. Estimate: HKD 1,200,000 – 2,000,000 / US$ 150,000– 250,000.
In addition to this watch, more than 30 Rolex watches are being offered in this auction. Some noteworthy lots among them are:
An 18K yellow gold Submariner with automatic movement and tropical brown dial (reference 1680), circa 1979.
A white gold Daytona automatic chronograph with diamond and ruby set dial (reference 116509), circa 2009.
A stainless steel Submariner Date with 39mm diameter case, automatic movement, and tropical MK-II dial, circa 1969.
A two-tone (stainless and steel) Oyster chronograph with 34.5mm case, manual-wound movement and silvered dial, circa 1938.
A GMT Master with 39mm stainless steel case, automatic movement and gilt dial (reference 1675), circa 1965 (the same reference but made in 1966 is also available).
An Explorer watch with 36mm stainless steel case, automatic movement and tropical dial with chapter ring, circa 1960.
An 18K pink gold Day-date with 36mm diameter case, automatic movement, silvered dial with diamond markers (reference 1803), circa 1974.
An Explorer II with 40mm diameter stainless steel case, automatic movement and cream rail dial (reference 16550), circa 1986.
An 18K yellow gold Day-date with 36mm diameter case, automatic movement and diamond-paved dial (reference 18038), circa 1981.
An 18K Yellow Gold Submariner with 40mm diameter case, automatic movement and black dial (reference 16618), circa 1991.
A Stainless Steel Daytona Automatic Chronograph with 39mm diameter case and white dial (reference 116500), circa 2018.
An 18K Pink Gold Daytona Chronograph with 40mm case, automatic movement and golden dial (reference 116505), circa 2009.
An 18K Yellow Gold Day Date with 36mm case, Lapis Lazuli dial, automatic movement and 18K president bracelet, circa 1997.
A Stainless steel Submariner with 39mm diameter case, automatic movement, tropical gilt dial and pointed crown guard (reference 5512), circa 1960.
(9) LOT 152 – Roger Dubuis White Gold Double Tourbillon
This version of the Excalibur Double Tourbillon has been produced and finished to the exalted standards of the Geneva Seal. The open-worked hour and minute hands are positioned above a mother-of-pearl dial.
An arc-shaped minute track, positioned between 9 and 3 o’clock, provides the basis for the unusual retrograde minutes display. Two flying tourbillons reside at the base of the dial and are framed with silver-coloured circlets. Unlike a ‘conventional’ tourbillon, a flying tourbillon eschews an upper bridge/bar, affording superior views of the escapement, regulating organ and cage in motion.
The two flying tourbillons are linked by a differential, augmenting precision. Housed in a white gold case, this model was produced in a limited series of 28 pieces (this example is No. 9/28). Roger Dubuis, a fully integrated Manufacture. The estimate for this example is HKD 240,000-400,000 / US$ 30,000–50,000.
Lot 138: Panerai limited edition titanium watch with tourbillon, dual time and AM/PM indication, circa 2017.
Lot 51: Blancpain Platinum hand-wound watch with skeletonised dial and a set of 9 bezels, circa 1994.
Lot 54: Breguet Yellow Gold Automatic Tourbillon Regulator watch, Ref. 5307, circa 2005.
Lot 85: CORUM 18K White Gold Quarter Repeater with automaton, automatic movement by CHRISTOPHE CLARET, circa 1995.
Lot 107: HYT Iceberg limited edition with titanium case and white dial with retrograde blue fluid hours and power reserve, circa 2014.
Lot 53: Breguet 18K White Gold manual-wound watch With Dual Time and Day/Night Indication, Ref. 7067, circa 2014.
Lot 55: Breguet Reine De Naples automatic watch with 18k white gold and diamond-set case and mother-of-pearl-dial, circa 2000.
Lot 141: Piaget hand-wound watch with Yellow gold, Onyx and diamond case and bracelet, gold dial, circa 1991.
Lot 121: Longines 18K Yellow Gold, manual-winding chronograph with 37mm case and silver dial, circa 1937.
Lot 128: Moritz Grossmann Stainless Steel with Hand Painted Dial displaying a tiger, circa 2019.
(10) HAUTE JOAILLERIE PIECES
During this auction, Christie’s is offering a number of Haute Joaillerie pieces. The first timepiece (lot 82) is a white gold Chopard bracelet watch set with diamonds and emeralds (Est. HKD 320,000 – 650,000 / US$ 40,000 – 85,000).
The second watch (lot 140) is a dazzling creation from Piaget set with 94 brilliant and marquise-cut white diamonds with a total weight of 16 carats along with 43 rubies totalling 16.68 carats. This Piaget masterpiece, part of the Maison’s haute joaillerie collection, is in exceptional condition and is supplied with the original Piaget Certificate of Origin. Estimate: HKD 650,000–1,200,000 / US$ 85,000–150,000.
Three Vacheron Constantin high-jewellery watches are also available. Dressed in a white gold case, these timepieces can be distinguished by their gem-setting combination: ‘diamond with emerald’, ‘diamond with ruby’ and ‘diamond with sapphire’.
Another high-jewellery lot featured in this auction is a set of Patek Philippe Lady’s yellow gold and lapis lazuli and diamond-set bracelet watch with matching ring and earrings.
Achieving numerous new records during an exceptional Spring 2021 Watch Season, in just 4 months (March- June 2021), Christie’s watch sales in Geneva, Dubai, Hong Kong and New York totalled US$ 93.7 million, giving Christie’s the leadership position in the watches auction market.
This record performance during the first half of 2021 exceeds Christie’s watch figures for the whole of 2020 and 2019, further strengthening the premier auction house’s position as a global leader in horological sales on live and digital platforms.
The enduring fascination with iconic, rare and beautiful timepieces, together with the vast diversity of offerings, is attracting new bidders from around the globe. More than a trend, it signifies a shift towards a faster-paced, more segmented market.
Some important facts and figures
In the 1st half of 2021, 1681 lots were offered at 10 Christie’s watch auctions, with a combined 92% of lots sold.
40% of the lots sold above estimate, indicating desirable curation and strong appetite from the market.
Christie’s watch sales recorded participation from 79 countries, (+15 vs 1H20)
More than 35% of auction registrants were new to Christie’s.
The market is also opening up to a younger and more diverse profile: 39% of buyers at the watch sales were new to Christie’s, of which 40% are under 40, and 41% are based in APAC, 28% in Americas and 31% in EMEA.
A fresh balance between ‘live’ and ‘online’ showed that more than one in two bidders in traditional sales (53%) also bid online.
Hong Kong is the second-largest country by number of new buyers, after the US (followed by the UK, Switzerland and Singapore).
Spectacular rise of the Middle East, where the number of registrants has tripled. Christie’s, attentive to the local clientele of great collectors, is the only house with an active Watches department based in Dubai. The region has unquestionably become also an essential hub in the watch market.
The live and online auctions held between March and June this year across four markets – Geneva, Dubai, Hong Kong and New York – combined the advantages of global expertise with the regional knowledge Christie’s watch specialists are known for.
Highlights across Christie’s markets
Christie’s auctions in Geneva, Dubai, Hong Kong and New York presented true standout timekeepers this Spring season, notably several historically important pieces:
In Hong Kong, a unique 18k gold Patek Philippe automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with English calendar, leap year indication and “no moon” Ref. 3448 “Alan Banbery” (manufactured in 1970, modified in 1975) which reached US$ 3,759,755 and set a new auction record for the reference.
A Patek Philippe Ref. 2523/1 two crown world time wristwatch achieved US$ 2,051,364 (almost double its low estimate of US$ 1,035,389).
A Patek Philippe wristwatch Ref. 1415 with enamel dial achieved auction record for the reference with US$ 2,284,326 (more than double its low estimate).
A Patek Philippe Ref. 2481, also with enamel dial, achieved US$ 1,010,798 setting a new auction record as well as for the reference (4 times above the low estimate $258,847).
An important F.P. Journe platinum Chronomètre Souverain, made for and presented to George Daniels, that went for US$ 420,657 (against a low estimate of US$ 184,564; an auction record for the model).
In Dubai, a Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 5002P-001 (manufactured in 2004) sold for an online record US$ 1,590,000, setting two new records simultaneously, for the most expensive watch sold at auction in the Middle East and for any watch sold online at Christie’s.
Also, La Grande Sonnerie No.1, in platinum Ref. G0025.7 by Gérald Genta, estimated at US$ 30,000-40,000, sold for US$ 500,000, whilst a yellow gold Grande Sonnerie No. 3 by Genta achieved 10 times its low estimate, selling for US$ 300,000.
A rare 1952 steel Rolex, triple calendar chronograph Snow Compax, Ref. 6036, tripled its pre- sale estimate and found a new owner at US$ 350,000.
In Geneva, a Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 1518 in rose gold (manufactured in 1951) retailed by Serpico Y Laino, achieved US$1,502,971 against the low estimate of US$488,740.
Also a Patek Philippe World Time pocket watch Ref. 605 with a cloisonné enamel dial which sold more than double the low estimate, achieving US$1,271,861.
A rare and early platinum F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain wristwatch achieved US$ 434,000 against a low estimate of US$ 184,000.
In New York, a Cartier Art Deco Pendule Mystérieuse clock Modèle A (manufactured in circa 1925) which sold for US$ 562,500, a Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph Ref. 2499/100 sold US$ 475,000, more recently the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 570 owned by pop art icon Andy Warhol, which sold three times its low estimate achieving, US$ 150,000, a perpetual calendar chronograph Patek Philippe Ref. 3990EP in platinum set with diamonds that realized US$ 200,000, and a Rolex Ref. 6036 “Jean-Claude Killy” triple calendar chronograph that sold for US$ 187,500.
Successfully conducted on 22 May 2021, Christie’s Hong Kong Watches Spring Auction achieved several milestones in the watch auction arena.
Watches Department marked a milestone moment when it achieved the highest ever total for a various-owner sale for the category at Christie, realising HK$ 269,277,500 / US$ 34,850,855 / EUR 28,440,551, with a combined sell-through rate of 85%, and 139% hammer above low estimate.
The historic occasion was led by the inaugural evening sale “The Legends of Time”, which was 100% sold, totalling HK$ 144,435,000 / US$ 18,693,293 / EUR 15,254,936 and 152% hammer above low estimate.
The day sale “An Exceptional Season of Watches” realised HK$124,842,500 / US$16,157,562 / EUR 13,185,615 with sell-through rates of 83% by lot and 88% by value, and 126% hammer above low estimate. The sales attracted intense bidding from watch enthusiasts across 14 countries and 4 continents, driving exceptional prices for Patek Philippe, Rolex and F.P. Journe.
Leading the sales was Patek Philippe – a unique, exceptional and historically highly important 18k gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with English calendar, leap year indication and “no moon”, ref. 3448 “Alan Banbery”, specially modified by request of Henri and Philippe Stern in 1975, as a unique piece for presentation to Alan Banbery, manufactured in 1970, HK$29,050,000 / US$3,759,755 / EUR 3,068,203, setting a new auction record for the reference.
All 18 lots offered in the evening sale “The Legends of Time” found buyers. On top of the record-breaking star lot – Alan Banbery’s yellow gold Patek Philippe ref. 3448J – some exciting highlights in the evening include:
PATEK PHILIPPE, A magnificent and important 18K pink gold World Time wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial depicting the eastern hemisphere. Ref. 1415, manufactured in 1949. Price Realised: HK$17,650,000 / US$2,284,326 (auction world record for the reference, more than double its low estimate of HK$8,000,000 / US$1,035,389).
PATEK PHILIPPE, An extremely fine, unique and important 18K gold two crown World Time wristwatch with 24 hours indication, guilloché silvered dial, luminous hands and gold bracelet. Ref. 2523/1, manufactured in 1965. Price Realised: HK$15,850,000 / US$2,051,364 (almost double its low estimate of HK$8,000,000 / US$1,035,389).
PATEK PHILIPPE, An exceptional and highly important, historic and unique 18k pink gold openface minute repeating two train grande and petite sonnerie keyless lever clock watch with instantaneous perpetual calendar, indications for julian and gregorian calendars, moon phases and chronograph with central 60-minute recorder, made for Jean de Gradowski, manufactured in 1890. Price Realised: HK$14,050,000/ US$1,818,401 (3.5 times over low estimate of HK$4,000,000 / US$517,694).
PATEK PHILIPPE, An exceptional 18k gold wristwatch with sweep centre seconds and cloisonné enamel dial, “The Lighthouse”, Ref. 2481, manufactured in 1954. Price Realised: HK$7,810,000 / US$1,010,798 (auction world record for the reference, almost 4 times over the low estimate of HK$2,000,000/ US$258,847).
PATEK PHILIPPE, A unique and highly important 18k pink gold ‘spider lugs’ chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter and engraved bezel, Ref. 1579, retailed by Gobbi Milano, manufactured in 1955. Price Realised: HK$5,500,000 / US$711,830 (auction world record for the reference).
PATEK PHILIPPE, A magnificent and very rare 18k gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases and leap year indication, Ref. 3450, retailed by Gübelin, manufactured in 1985. Price Realised: HK$4,375,000 / US$556,228 (auction world record for the reference).
PATEK PHILIPPE, An extremely rare and impressive 18k pink gold automatic wristwatch with black enamel dial. Ref. 2526, manufactured in 1957. Price Realised: HK$5,250,000 / US$679,474 (auction world record for the reference, more than double its high estimate of HK$2,200,000/ US$284,732).
PIGUET & MEYLAN, A magnificent and highly important quarter repeating 18k gold, painted enamel, pearl and turquoise set musical and automaton centre seconds watch, made for the Chinese market, signed Piguet et Meylan, the case by Frères Oltramare, no. 6173/5792, the enamel attributed Jean Abraham Lissignol or Jacques-Marc Henry, circa 1815. Price Realised: HK$4,250,000 / US$550,050 (more than 5 times over its low estimate of HK$800,000/ US$103,539)
The day sale “An Exceptional Season of Watches”offered extremely rare vintage and modern timepieces from legendary and emerging brands, with almost half of the lots sold above high estimates. Close to a third of the timepieces were hammered to online buyers via Christie’s LiveTM.
The top lot of this sale was an important Patek Philippe, the only known 18k gold split seconds chronograph wristwatch retailed by Gübelin, ref. 1436, manufactured in 1965, which was acquired for HK$ 5,500,000 / US$711,830, more than double its low estimate of HK$ 2,400,000 / US$310,617 and set a new auction record for the reference and a record for the reference was set by F.P. Journe – an important platinum wristwatch with power reserve, made and presented to pay tribute to George Daniel, Chronomètre Souverain model, circa 2010, realised HK$3,250,000 / US$420,627.
The selection of Rolex timepieces attracted passionate bidding, led by the extremely rare stainless steel chronograph triple calendar wristwatch, ref. 6036, “Jean Claude Killy” Model with “Red Depth”, circa 1953, which sold for HK$5,250,000 / US$679,474, more than double its high estimate of HK$2,400,000 / US$310,617.
An impressive and rare 18k pink gold, diamond and rainbow-coloured multi gem-set automatic chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, Daytona Rainbow Model, ref. 116595rbow, circa 2019, which realised HK$3,500,000 / US$452,982, topped the curation of modern timepieces.
On this coming Saturday (May 22nd, 2021), Christie’s is conducting the so-called the ‘Auction of the Decade in Asia’ in Honk Kong. This event will be comprised of a Day Sale ‘An Exceptional Season of Watches’ (2pm) and an Evening Sale ‘The Legends of Time’(7pm).
This event will be the first historic watch standalone Evening Sale hosted by Christie’s in Hong Kong. Curated around ‘The Legends of Time’, the sale is a once in a lifetime opportunity to glimpse some of the most extraordinary creations in watchmaking history, taking place at the HK Convention and Exhibition Centre in an elegant atmosphere.
From the 1800s to the modern era: The extraordinary selection of 18 timepieces curated under the theme ‘The Legends of Time’ will engage the watch loving and collecting community with its rarity and outstanding quality. A sale of this importance only happens once every decade, 18 lots of the highest quality with the potential to break the record for any watch sale ever held in Asia. Est. HKD 77,500,000 – 200,600,000 (US$ 9.9 million – 25.8 million).
Earlier in the day, scheduled for 2pm, and curated around the theme of ‘An Exceptional Season of Watches’, a Day Live Sale includes 147 lots with a selection of highly desirable vintage & modern watches, including 56 Patek Philippe & 36 Rolex watches. Est. HKD 80,801,000 – 147,107,000 / US$ 10.4 million – 18.9 million).
The two sales on 22 May are poised to set an all-time record for an Asian auction (the last record set by Christie’s Hong Kong was US$ 26 million in November 2019).
Highlights: ‘The Legends of Time’
Patek Philippe 18K Gold Automatic Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch with English Calendar, Leap Year Indication and “No Moon”, Ref. 3448 “Alan Banbery”, Specially Modified by Request of Henri and Philippe Stern in 1975 as a Unique Piece for Presentation to Alan Banbery, Manufactured In 1970. Estimate: HK$ 24,800,000-40,000,000/ US$ 3,200,000-5,162,000.
Patek Philiippe Platinum World Time Wristwatch, ref. 1415 HU, Manufactured In 1946. Estimate: HK$ 8,000,000-24,000,000/ US$ 1,033,000-3,097,000.
Patek Philippe 18k Pink Gold ‘Spider Lugs’ Chronograph Wristwatch With Tachymeter And Engraved Bezel, Confirmed As The Only Example Ever Made, Ref. 1579, Retailed By Gobbi Milano, Manufatured In 1955. Estimate: HK$ 3,200,000-6,500,000/ US$ 413,000-839,000.
Attributed to Piguet & Capt. A Highly Important and Magnificent 18k Gold and Enamel, Pearl-Set Musical, Perfume and Automaton Amphora-Form Watch Made for the Chinese Market, Swiss, the Enamel Attributed to Jean-Louis Richter, Geneva, Circa 1805. Estimate: HK$ 8,000,000-40,000,000/ US$ 1,033,000-5,000,000.
Patek Philippe 18k Pink Gold Openface Minute Repeating Two Train Grande And Petite Sonnerie Keyless Lever Clockwatch With Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar, Indications For Julian And Gregorian Calendars, Moon Phases And Chronograph With Central 60-Minute Recorder, Made For Jean De Gradowski, Manufactured In 1890 . Estimate: HK$ 4,000-000-12,000,000/ US$ 517,000-1,549,000.
Patek Philippe 18k Pink Gold Automatic Wristwatch with Black Enamel Dial, ref. 2526, Manufactured In 1957. Estimate: HK$ 1,200,000-2,200,000/ US$ 155,000-284,000.
Patek Philippe 18k Gold Wristwatch with Sweep Centre Seconds and Cloisonné Enamel Dial “The Lighthouse” Ref. 2481, Manufactured In 1954.Estimate: HK$ 2,000,000-6,000,000/ US$ 259,000-775,000.
Patek Philippe 18k Gold Two Crown World Time Wristwatch with 24 Hour Indication and Bracelet, ref. 2523/1, Manufactured In 1965. Estimate: HK$ 8,000,000-24,000,000/ US$ 1,033,000-3,097,000.
Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold World Time Wristwatch with Cloisonné Enamel Dial Depicting the Eastern Hemisphere, Ref. 1415, Manufactured In 1949. Estimate: HK$ 8,000,000-24,000,000/ US $ 1,033,000-3,097,000.
Attributed to Piguet Et Meylan. An Extremely Fine and Very Rare 18k Gold and Enamel Musical Box with Automaton and Center-Seconds Watch, Made for the Chinese Market Swiss, Geneva, No. 1447, The Box Attributed To Rémond, Lamy, Mercier & Co, Circa 1815.Estimate: HK$400,000-1,200,000: US$ 52,000-155,000.
Piguet & Meylan Quarter Repeating 18k Gold, Painted Enamel, Pearl and Turquoise Set Musical and Automaton Centre Seconds Watch, Made for the Chinese Market, Signed Piguet Et Meylan, The Case By Frères Oltramare, No. 6173/5792, The Enamel Attributed Jean Abraham Lissignol, Circa 1815. Estimate: HK$ 800,000-2,400,000/ US$ 104,000-310,000.
Piguet & Meylan 18K Gold, Pearl And Enamel-Set Quarter Repeating ‘Barking Dog’ Automaton Openface Watch, Made For The Chinese Market, Signed I.D. Piguet Et P. Meylan, Genève, No. 146, The Enamel Painting Attributed To Jean-François-Victor Dupont, Circa 1815. Estimate: HK$ 800,000-2,400,000/ US$ 104,000-310,000.
Attributed To Moulinié, Bautte & Cie. or J.B. Garrand, Geneva. An Extremely Rare, Important and Very Fine Gold Enamel and Pearl-Set Flintlock Pistol-Form Perfume Sprinkler with Concealed Watch, Made for the Chinese Market, Swiss, Geneva, Circa 1805. Estimate: HK$ 800,000-2,400,000/ US$ 104,000-310,000.
Patek Philippe 18k Gold Automatic Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch with Moon Phases and Leap Year Indication, Ref. 3450, Retailed By Gubelin, Manufactured In 1985. Estimate: HK$ 3,500,000-5,500,000/ US$ 452,000-710,000.
Patek Philippe Gilt Brass Solar Powered Dome Clock with Cloisonné Enamel. Ref. 1193, Manufactured In 1982. Estimate: HK$ 1,000,000-2,000,000/ US$ 130,000-259,000.
Patek Philippe Gilt Brass Solar Powered Dome Clock with Cloisonné Enamel. Ref. 1177M, Manufactured In 1979. Estimate: HK$ 1,000,000-2,000,000/ US$ 130,000-259,000.
Patek Philippe 18K Gold Keyless Lever Watch With Enamel Scene. Ref. 865/79, Manufactured In 1975. Estimate: HK$ 1,000,000-2,000,000/ US$ 130,000-259,000.
Patek Philippe 18K Gold Keyless Lever Watch With Enamel Scene. Ref. 652/31, Manufactured In 1986. Estimate: HK$ 1,000,000-2,000,000/ US$ 130,000-259,000
Saturday 22 May 2021 at 2pm: Day Sale ‘An Exceptional Season of Watches’
Saturday 22 May 2021 at 7pm: Evening Sale ‘The Legends of Time’
19 May – 2 June 2021: Online Sale ‘Watches Online’
Christie’s ‘Rare Watches’ Live auction in Geneva on 10 May 2021 achieved a total of more than CHF 23 million / USD25.5 million, with 94% sold by lot and 98% sold by value.
The top timepiece in the auction was Patek Philippe reference 1518 in pink gold, which was the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch to be serially produced by the manufacture, featuring the rare engraving of the Venezuelan retailer Serpico Y Laino. This most sought after wristwatch was sold for CHF 1,350,000 against the low estimate of CHF 450,000.
As usual, Patek Philippe watches dominated the auction. Some rare and important timepieces from F.P Journe, A. Lange & Söhne, Breguet, Rolex, Vianney Halter, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin were also achieved excellent selling prices.
Top Achievers (lots that achieved CHF 100,000 and above)
Lot 210: Patek Philippe Reference 1518, 18K Pink Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph retailed by Venezuelan retailer Serpico Y Laino: CHF 1, 350,000
Lot 117: Patek Philippe Reference 605 HU, 18K Pink Gold Open Face Keyless Lever World Time Watch with Polychrome Cloisonné Enamel Dial Representing a Map of North America: CHF 1,170,000
Lot 230: Patek Philippe Reference 3974, 18K White Gold Automatic Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch with Moon Phases, 24 Hour, Leap Year, Day/Night Indication: CHF 846,000
Lot 114: Patek Philippe Reference 130, 18K White Gold Chronograph, circa 1944: CHF 687,500
Lot 41: Patek Philippe Reference 5016R, 18K Pink Gold Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch with Tourbillon Retrograde Date, Moon Phases, Leap Year Indication, with a Black Dial, circa 2010: CHF 600,000
Lot 164: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain with Power Reserve, Constant Force Remontoire, Dead Beat Seconds functions, Platinum Case, Mother-Of-Pearl Dial, circa 2007: CHF 575,000
Lot 211: Patek Philippe Reference 2499, 18K Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases, circa 1984: CHF 537,500
Lot 211: Patek Philippe Reference 2499, 18K Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases, 4th series: CHF 537,500
Lot 177: A. Lange & Söhne ‘Tourbillon Pour Le Merite’ Platinum Limited Edition Tourbillon Wristwatch with Chain Fusee, Power Reserve and Bracelet, Reference 751.005, circa 1998: CHF 500,000
Lot 63: Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Open Face Keyless Lever Perpetual Calendar Pocket Watch with Guillaume Balance and Equation of Time, circa 1890: CHF 475,000
Lot 40: Patek Philippe Reference 5016P, Platinum Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch with Tourbillon, Retrograde Date, Moon Phases, Leap Year Indication and Breguet Numerals: CHF 437,500
Lot 178: A. Lange & Söhne Reference 701.011, Tourbillon Pour Le Merite, 18K Pink Gold Limited Edition Tourbillon Wristwatch with Chain Fusée, Power Reserve, circa 1998: CHF 437,500
Lot 72: Breguet Sympathique No. 15, Gilt Bronze 8-Day Going Table Clock with Equation of Time, Annual Calendar, Moon Phases, Power Reserve Indication, Thermometer, Spring Detent Chronometer Escapement with Five-Second Constant Force Remontoire, Matching Numbered 18k Gold Tourbillon Wristwatch with Regulator Style Dial and Power Reserve Indication, circa 1994: CHF 437,500
Lot 226: Patek Philippe Reference 5013, Tonneau-Shaped Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar in Platinum, circa 2000: CHF 400,000
Lot 166: F.P. Journe Platinum Tourbillon Souverain wristwatch with Power Reserve, Constant Force Remontoir and Dead Beat Seconds, Matte gold dial circa 2002: CHF 400,000
Lot 165: F.P. Journe Platinum Tourbillon Wristwatch with Power Reserve, Constant Force Remontoir and Dead Beat Seconds, White gold and silver guilloche dial, circa 2001: CHF 400,000
Lot 132: Rolex Stainless steel Oyster Perpetual Submariner ‘Comex’, Reference 1680, circa 1978: CHF 400,000
Lot 61: Patek Philippe Reference 944/1, 18K Gold Open Face High-Precision Keyless Lever Pocket Watch with One-Minute Tourbillon Regulator by Hector Golay, Made For Observatory Competition, Regulated By François Modoux: CHF 375,000
Lot 229: Patek Philippe Reference 3974G, 18K Gold Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch with Moon Phases, 24 Hour And Leap Year And Day/Night Indication with a Black Dial, circa 1991: CHF 350,000
Lot 159: Breguet Perpétuelle No. 195/3759, 18K Gold Open Face Self-Winding Minute Repeating Jumping Hour Lever Pocket Watch with Free Sprung Helical Balance Spring and 60-Hour Power Reserve: CHF 300,000
Lot 11: Patek Philippe Reference 5711/1R, 18K Pink Gold Nautilus Automatic Wristwatch with Sweep Centre Seconds and Date, Retailed By Tiffany & Co., circa 2016: CHF 300,000
Lot 227: Patek Philippe Reference 5079J, 18K Gold Automatic “Cathedral” Minute Repeating Wristwatch with Enamel Dial, circa 2002: CHF 275,000
Lot 209: Patek Philippe Reference 2497, 18K Gold Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch with Sweep Centre Seconds and Moon Phases, circa 1955: CHF 250,000
Lot 225: Patek Philipe Reference 5013J, 18K Gold Tonneau-Shaped Automatic Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch with Retrograde Date, Moon Phases, Leap Year Indication and Breguet Numerals, circa 1992: CHF 250,000
Lot 137: Rolex Dato-Compax ‘Jean Claude Killy’ Reference 6036, 18K Gold Triple Calendar Chronograph Wristwatch, circa 1953: CHF 250,000
Lot 38: Patek Philippe Reference 5970P, Platinum Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Wristwatch with Moon Phases and 24 Hour Indication, circa 2010: CHF 237,500
Lot 111: Patek Philippe Reference 2526, 18K White Gold Automatic Wristwatch with small seconds and Diamond-Set hour-markers, circa 1955: CHF 237,500
Lot 39: Patek Philippe Reference 5971, Platinum and Diamond-Set Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Wristwatch with Moon Phases, 24-Hour and Leap Year Indication, circa 2007: CHF 225,000
Lot 169: Vianney Halter Platinum Antiqua Automatic Perpetual Calendar: CHF 225,000
Lot 19: Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Grande Complication Ref. 25806, Platinum Automatic Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Split Seconds Chronograph Wristwatch With Moon Phases, Calendar Week and Leap Year Indication, circa 2006: CHF 212,500
Lot 52: Vacheron Constantin Polar Bear Mystery Tourbillon Clock, circa 1989: CHF 225,000
Lot 155: Attributed to Charles Ducommun, 18K Pink Gold Enamel and Pearl-Set Open Face Quarter Repeating Pocket Watch with Virgule Escapement and Varicoloured Gold Automaton Depicting ‘Moses Striking the Rock’, circa 1800: CHF 225,000
Lot 162: F.P. Journe Repetition Minute Souverain, Stainless Steel Minute Repeating Wristwatch with Power Reserve Indication, circa 2011: CHF 187,500
Lot 136: Rolex Reference 6062, 18K Gold Automatic Triple Calendar Wristwatch with Moon Phases, circa 1953: CHF 175,000
Lot 36: Patek Philippe Reference 3971 1st Series, 18K Pink Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Wristwatch with Moon Phases, 24 Hour and Leap Year Indication, Manufactured in 1990: CHF 168,750
Lot 12: Patek Philippe Jumbo Nautilus Reference 3700/11J, 18K Gold Automatic Wristwatch with Date, circa 1983: CHF 162,500
Lot 9: Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5980R, 18K Pink Gold Automatic Chronograph with Date, circa 2017: CHF 162,500
Lot 65: Jules Jürgensen Grand Complication, 18K Gold Open Face Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Split Seconds Chronograph Keyless Lever Watch with Moon Phases and Jürgensen’s Patented Bow Hand-Setting, Winner of a Grand Prix at the Exposition Universelle, Paris 1900: CHF 162,500
Lot 16: Audemars Piguet Montre De Poche Royal Oak Model, NO. 3, Ref. 25729, Platinum and Diamond-Set Limited Edition Open Face Skeletonised Quantieme Perpetual Calendar Keyless Lever Watch with Moon Phases and Leap Year Indication and Chain, Circa 1992: CHF 156,250
Lot 163: F.P. Journe Pink Gold Tourbillon Souverain No. 211-TN, 18K Pink Gold Tourbillon Wristwatch with Power Reserve, Constant Force Remontoir and Dead Beat Seconds, circa 2006: CHF 150,000
Lot 160: Breguet No. 1348, 20K Gold Openface Cylinder Watch With Days of the Week Indication, Annual Gregorian calendar, Additional Gold Index for the Julian calendar, Signs Of The Zodiac and Special Disengaging Equation of Time Mechanism: CHF 150,000
Lot 56: Walter Prendel Groïtzsch I/SA Silver Double Barrel Open Face Six-Minute Flying Tourbillon High-Precision Pocket Watch with 30° Angled Oblique Balance, Guillaume Balance and 30-Hour Power Reserve Indication, circa 1927/28: CHF 150,000
Lot 11: Patek Philippe Reference 530, 18K Gold Chronograph with Tachometer Scale, circa 1942: CHF 143,750
Lot 70: Attributed to Piguet & Capt, Geneva, Musical Automaton Vinaigrette with Watch, circa 1810: CHF 143,750
Lot 62: Patek Philippe Reference 880/1, 18K Gold Open Face Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Keyless Lever Pocket Watch with Moon Phases, Four Year Cycle Indication, 24-Hour Indication and Equation Of Time, Retailed By Beyer, Zürich, circa 1974: CHF 137,500
Lot 116: Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 605 HU, 18K Gold Open Face Keyless Lever World Time Pocket Watch with Later Engraved Coat Of Arms, circa 1944: CHF 137,500
Lot 64: Patek Philippe 18K Gold Open Face Two Train Trip Minute Repeating Keyless Lever Chronograph Pocket Watch with 60 Minute Register, Retailed By A. Sulikowski, Kracow, Manufactured in 1898: CHF 125,000
Lot 212: Patek Philippe Reference 5970R, 18K Pink Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Wristwatch with Moon Phases, 24 Hour and Leap Year Indication, circa 2007: CHF 125,000
Lot 37: Patek Philippe Reference 3970E, Platinum Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Wristwatch with Moon Phases, 24 Hour Indication, Leap Year Indication and Black Dial, circa 1997: CHF 125,000
Lot 60: Patek Philippe Geneva Oberservatory First Prize Winning Tourbillon, 18K Gold Open Face High-Precision Keyless Lever Pocket Watch with One-Minute Tourbillon Regulator by Hector Golay, Awarded First Prize at the Geneva Observatory Chronometer Competition in 1932, Regulated By François Modoux, circa 1931: CHF 125,000
Lot 10: Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5990/1A, Stainless Steel Automatic Chronograph Dual Time with Date, circa 2014: CHF 118,750
Lot 5: Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 3712A, Stainless Steel Automatic Wristwatch with Power Reserve, Moon Phases and Date, circa 2006: CHF 112,500
Lot 115: Patek Philippe Gilt Brass Solar-powered Table Clock with Cloisonne Enamel by Elisabeth Perusset Lagger, Reference 1121, circa 1976: CHF 112,500
Lot 213: Patek Philippe Reference 3970EP, 4th Series, Platinum and Diamond-Set Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Wristwatch with Moon Phases, 24 Hour Indication and Leap Year Indication, Manufactured in 2004: CHF 112,500
Lot 21: Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Platinum Minute Repeating Tourbillon Chronograph, Reference 26050PT, Circa 2007: CHF 112,500
Lot 73: Breguet Skeletonized Souscription Set No. 1, ‘Souscription’ Set of 18k Pink Gold Watches, Comprising a Skeletonized Tourbillon Wristwatch (Reference 3355) and a ‘Perpétuelle’ Self-Winding Skeletonized Pocket Watch with Date, Moon Phases and Power Reserve, circa 1996: CHF 112,500
Lot 20: Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Reference 260500R, 18K Pink Gold Minute Repeating Tourbillon Chronograph Wristwatch, Circa 2008: CHF 112,500
Lot 122: Rolex Reference 18188 Day-Date ‘Lucky Wheel’, 18K Gold, Diamond, Ruby, Emerald and Sapphire Set Automatic Wristwatch with Sweep Centre Seconds, Day and Date, Circa 1987: CHF 100,000
Lot 8: Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5980A, Stainless Steel Automatic Chronograph Wristwatch with Date, circa 2012: CHF 100,000
Lot 71: Attributed to Charles-Abraham Bruguier 18k Gold and Enamel Singing Bird Box, circa 1865: CHF 100,000
Christie’s has announced its Spring auction season combining a live “Rare Watches” auction on 10 May and one special online sale from 7 to 18 May, in Geneva.
The sale brings to market Métiers d’Art timepieces that epitomise the highest mastery of the arts of enamelling, precious metal smithing and gem setting, of movement decoration and engraving, alongside iconic vintage and contemporary watches that have become legends in their own time. The live sale is estimated to achieve between CHF12.8 and 20.8 million. The live sale is scheduled on 10 May 2021 at 10:30AM & 2:30PM at Hotel Four Seasons, Les Bergues.
Enamel Dial Pocket Watches
(1) Patek Philippe Reference 605 HU (Heure Universelle)
Among the highlights of Christie’s Geneva Rare Watches spring auction, collectors will discover a Patek Philippe ref. 605 HU (for Heure Universelle) world time pocket watch in rose gold with a cloisonné enamel dial. Of all Patek Philippe pocket watches made in the middle of the 20th century, few come close to matching the rarity and beauty of this particular model. This reference was one of the first to feature Louis Cottier’s world time system, and each watch was made under Cottier’s direct supervision.
From 1939 to 1964, Louis Cottier and Patek Philippe produced a total of 95 pieces – 68 in yellow gold and 27 in rose gold. Reference 605 was available with a plain metal dial or a unique cloisonné enamel dial depicting individual continents, hemispheres, or the entire world. Today, only around 12 examples with a cloisonné dial are known to exist, only four of which, including the present watch, are decorated with the map of North America. Estimate: CHF550,000-750,000 / €500,000-680,000 / USD600,000-820,000.
(2) Ilbery. An extremely fine and important 18K gold and enamel open-face pocket chronometer with Peto cross detent escapement, the enamel attributed to Jean-Louis Richter, made for the Chinese market
This exceptional timepiece made for the Chinese market impressively combines the work of two of the most celebrated artists of their time: the high-precision movement of the watchmaker William Ilbery of London and the lavish gold case distinguished by the magnificence of the finely painted enamel miniature attributed to the Genevan enamellist Jean-Louis Richter (1766-1841).
The Charming bucolic painted enamel scenes such as that of the present watch derived from English genre paintings by artists from the Royal Academy such as Joshua Reynolds, Francis Wheatley, William Hamilton and William Redmore Bigg, who specialized in images of romanticized English rural life in the last quarter of the 18th century. Their paintings were engraved and sold as prints which were enormously popular and were used as models for the Genevan enamellers. Estimate: CHF45,000-90,000 / €40,000-80,000 / USD50,000-100,000.
(1) Attributed to Charles-Abraham Bruguier. A very fine and rare 18K gold and enamel singing bird box
This beguiling singing bird box is an exceptional example of the horological craftsmanship Geneva became synonymous with. Extraordinary for its mechanical complexity and tonal quality, this apparently unsigned exemplar is attributed to eminent artisan Charles-Abraham Bruguier the younger. The exquisitely enameled case is in the style of Jean-Georges Rémond.
First seen in Geneva in the late 18th century, these marvels uncannily imitated real life, from simpler “Bras en l’Air” figures whose arms indicated the time, to stunning depictions of pastoral, theatrical or other scenes such as that on this box. These works of art and engineering were highly appreciated not only in Europe, but also by Chinese and Ottoman dignitaries. Estimate: CHF75,000-110,000 / €68,000-100,000 / USD82,000-130,000.
(2) Attributed to Piguet & Capt. An exceptionally rare and very fine 18K gold and enamel pearl-set trefoil-shaped musical vinaigrette with automaton scene and clock, original fitted box
This exquisite precious object still possesses the power to enchant more than 200 years after it was made. Incredibly rare, this automaton vinaigrette table watch is both a superb jewel and a mechanical marvel that would make a worthy addition to even the most exalted collection. Its identical ‘twin’ is on permanent exhibition at the prestigious Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva.
Incorporating a musical movement, watch and automata, it is a fascinating object of beauty as well as highly ingenious engineering and design. Attributable stylistically to Piguet & Capt, the most important Geneva makers of complicated small automata and watches in the early 19th century, this exemplar’s movement is impressively small, almost miniaturized, a feat that required exceptional skill to achieve. Estimate: CHF65,000-90,000 / €58,000-82,000 / USD70,000-100,000.
(3) Attributed to Charles Ducommun. An extremely fine and very rare, large and important 18K rose gold, enamel and pearl-set open face quarter repeating pocket watch with virgule escapement and polychrome gold automaton depicting ‘Moses striking the rock.’
The ‘Moses’ automaton watches are perhaps the most famous and iconic among all the Swiss automaton timepieces made in the early years of the 19th century. These extremely rare and highly complex automatons fascinate with the sheer difficulty of conceiving and realizing a mechanical movement capable of operating a series of delayed actions and combining it with a multicolored gold and enamel scene of highest aesthetic quality. Probably, this spectacular specimen is the first to be offered at an international auction in a decade. Estimate: CHF90,000-140,000 / €80,000-125,000 / USD100,000-150,000).
(1) Patek Philippe reference 3974, circa 1992
A very rare 18K gold automatic minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, 24 hour and leap year, day/night indication – One of the most important watches ever produced in series, the Patek Philippe ref. 3974 launched in 1989 to celebrate Patek Philippe’s 150th anniversary was simultaneously the firm’s and the world’s most complicated wristwatch. The very first movement was numbered 1’906’000.
Research reveals that only around 160 examples of reference 3974 were ever made, the majority in yellow gold. The ingenious Calibre 27 RQ impresses not only by the 467 parts it numbers, but also by Patek Philippe’s mastery in combining a 22K micro-rotor, minute repeating, perpetual calendar, 24-hour indication and phases of the moon mechanisms in a proportionally thin 12.2 mm movement.
Cases of the early examples were made by Jean-Pierre Hagmann, with the very first ones, such as the present one, bearing his ‘JPH’ mark. Later series were fitted with Ateliers Réunis cases. Estimate: CHF240,000-330,000 / €220,000-300,000 / USD260,000-360,000.
(2) Patek Philippe reference 3974, circa 1991
An extremely rare 18K gold automatic minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, 24 hour and leap year and day/night indication – Presented in very good overall condition and fresh to the market, the dial of the present Patek Philippe ref. 3974 is certainly one of the most attractive to adorn this model. The striking, highly charismatic black dial was fitted at the special request of a previous owner.
An extremely rare find, black dials are part of the most coveted versions of reference 3974. Originally born with a silver opaline dial, this particular timepiece is made highly appealing through the contrast of the deep black with the yellow gold.
Probably, the present reference 3974 is the only known example with a black dial and gold applied hour markers. As indicated by ‘JPH’ stamped underneath the lower left lug, the impressive case was made by renowned casemaker Jean-Pierre Hagmann of Geneva. Estimate: CHF240,000-420,000 / €220,000-380,000 / USD260,000-460,000.
Patek Philippe Ref. 3970E, Platinum Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Wristwatch with Moon Phases, 24 Hour Indication and Leap Year Indication, 36mm diameter case in Platinum, Black dial, Manual-wound movement, circa 1997. Estimate: CHF 80,000 – CHF 120,000.
Patek Philippe Ref. 3971 1st Series, 18K Pink Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Wristwatch with Moon Phases, 24 Hour and Leap Year Indication, 36mm case, Silvered dial and Manual winding movement, circa 1990. Estimate: CHF 55,000 – CHF 90,000
(3) Patek Philippe reference 5079
An extremely rare 18K gold automatic Cathédrale Minute repeating wristwatch with enamel dial and box – This Patek Philippe ref. 5079 embodies the most iconic traits of a Patek Philippe wristwatch as a pure repeater, without any further complication. The epitome of elegance, the dial is deceptively simple with only subsidiary seconds, Roman numerals, and railway track divisions. The piece’s significance is hinted at by the dial: the result of an extremely costly, lengthy and difficult process reserved only for exceptional watches.
Only an estimated 80 were made from 2001 to 2005. Last, not least, it is a cathedral repeater, meaning a deeper and longer chime due to extra-long gongs. Fitting such resonators in a wristwatch case is a feat left only to the very best of watchmakers. Estimate: CHF200,000-300,000 / €190,000-270,000 / USD220,000-330,000.
(4) Patek Philippe reference 5016
An extremely rare and highly important platinum minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with tourbillon, retrograde date, moon phases, leap year indication and Breguet numerals – Patek Philippe ref. 5016, introduced in 1994, incorporates all the complications sought after by discerning collectors: a minute repeater with sublime resonance, a retrograde perpetual calendar with moon phases, and a tourbillon. As lubrication oils will degrade with exposure to light, the latter is not visible.
Together with references 5050, 5059 (and later 5159), it is also the only watch to feature a retrograde date with triple calendar windows and moon phases combined with subsidiary seconds. Estimate: CHF330,000-520,000 / €310,000-470,000 /USD360,000-570,000.
(5) Patek Philippe reference 5016
An extremely rare and highly important 18K rose gold minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with tourbillon retrograde date, moon phases, leap year indication, black dial, certificates and box – Consigned by the original owner, an important private collector, this Patek Philippe ref. 5016 in rose gold with the arresting combination of black dial with Breguet numerals is one of the most beautiful and desirable examples – of one of the most intricate references ever created by Patek Philippe.
A world-class trophy, the watch is in excellent overall condition and comes with a full set of accessories. The research indicates the present timepiece is one of only 6 of reference 5016’s made in rose gold. Estimate: CHF280,000-460,000 / €260,000-420,000 / USD300,000-500,000.
(6) Patek Philippe reference 1518
A beautiful Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in rose gold, featuring the rare double signature of the Venezuelan retailer Serpico Y Laino, will be available in the sale. Only a handful of retailers worldwide had the privilege of having their name appear alongside that of Patek Philippe on the dial of the timepieces they sold, making these pieces highly desirable. Patek Philippe’s reference 1518 was the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch to be serially produced, and is now also the rarest.
Only 281 pieces were ever made from 1941 to 1954, in yellow and rose gold, with a few examples in steel. Its scarcity frustrated a great number of the company’s clients, as the reference was reserved for the most prominent Patek Philippe patrons such as Henry Graves Jr, the King of Jordan, and the King of Egypt. Estimate: CHF450,000-900,000 / €410,000-820,000 / USD490,000-1,000,000.
(7) Patek Philippe reference 2499
A very rare 18K gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases, 4th series, 37.6 mm diameter 18kt Yellow gold case, Silvered dial, manual winding movement, circa 1984. Estimate: CHF 400,000 – CHF 600,000
(8) Patek Philippe reference 5970
A very rare platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, 24-hour indication, additional case back, certificate of origin and box – One of fewer than 500 pieces in platinum, this Patek Philippe ref. 5970 in excellent condition comes with all the original accessories. Estimate: CHF150,000-250,000 / €140,000-230,000 / USD160,00-275,000)
Also available: Patek Philippe Platinum and Diamond-Set Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5971, 40mm diameter platinum case set with diamonds, Black dial, Manual-wound movement, Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases, 24-hour and leap year indication, circa 2007, Estimate: CHF 160,000 – CHF 240,000.
(8) Patek Philippe reference 944/1
An extremely fine and important, very large and unique 18K gold open face, high-precision keyless lever pocket watch with one-minute tourbillon regulator by Hector Golay – Patek Philippe’s early 20th century tourbillon watches destined to compete in the Observatory Contest are by their very nature among the very best precision timepieces ever made. The prestige conferred by obtaining consistent Observatory prizes was considerable.
As a result, Patek Philippe’s track record in winning the timepieces made to extremely fine tolerances resulted in greater commercial success for the brand as a whole. In the 1980s, Patek Philippe created a small number of very special watches around these exceptional historic high-precision movements – to be offered only to a very select few clients. This one-off Patek Philippe ref. 944/1 therefore represents a very rare opportunity for discerning collectors to obtain a historic Patek Philippe Observatory-tested tourbillon. Estimate: CHF280,000-460,000 / €260,000-420,000 / USD300,000-500,000.
Also available: Patek Philippe Ref. 880/1, 18K gold open-face minute repeating perpetual calendar keyless lever pocket watch with moon phases, four year cycle indication, 24-hour indication and equation of time. 52mm diameter case, Manual winding movement and Matte silvered dial, circa 1974. Estimate: CHF 75,000 – CHF 110,000
(9) Patek Philippe reference 2526
Presented at the live auction, this very rare piece in white gold is rightly famous for its elegant ivory-coloured enamel dial. Around 2,400 pieces were made in yellow gold, 360 in rose gold, 70 in white gold, and 70 in platinum. Although the same number were made in white gold and platinum, the white gold version is now rarer: Only around 20 examples have been discovered to date, compared to 24 platinum watches.
The present watch is one of the finest examples of the reference in white gold to be seen on the market for some time. Estimate: CHF140,000-230,000 / €130,000-210,000 / USD150,000-250,000.
(10) Patek Philippe reference 3974
An extremely rare 18K white gold automatic minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, 24-hour, leap year, day/night indication and box – This Patek Philippe ref. 3974 belongs to one of the most important watch series, introduced in 1989 to celebrate Patek Philippe’s 150th anniversary, reference 3974 was at the time not only the firm’s but also the world’s most complicated wristwatch.
The ingenious Calibre 27 RQ impresses not only by the remarkable total of 467 components, but, and perhaps especially so, by Patek Philippe’s masterly performance in combining a 22K micro-rotor, minute repeating, perpetual calendar, 24-hour indication and phases of the moon mechanisms in an impressively thin movement of 12.2 mm in height.
The cases of the early examples, including this piece, were made by Jean-Pierre Hagmann in Geneva, bearing his hallmark. Estimate: CHF550,000-900,000 / €510,000-820,000 / USD600,000-980,000.
(11) Patek Philippe reference 5013
A very rare Platinum Tonneau-Shaped Automatic Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar with Retrograde Date, Moon Phases and Leap Year Indication, 36mm case, silvered dial, automatic movement, circa 2000. Estimate: CHF 280,000 – CHF 460,000.
Patek Philippe Ref. 130, 18K white gold chronograph wristwatch with 33mm diameter case, silvered dial, manual-winding movement, circa 1944. Estimate: CHF 180,000 – CHF 350,000
Patek Philippe Ref. 530, 18K yellow Gold Chronograph wristwatch with Tachometer Scale, 36.5mm diameter case, Gilt dial and Manual winding movement, circa 1942. Estimate: CHF 90,000 – CHF 140,000
(12) Patek Philippe Nautilus Collection
Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5980R: A large and attractive 18K rose gold automatic chronograph wristwatch with date, bracelet, certificate of origin and box.
Consigned by an important private collector, it is fresh to the market, equipped with a chronograph complication and features the fabled ‘bull’s eye’ subsidiary dial. Estimate: CHF100,000-200,000 / €90,000-180,000 / USD110,000-220,000.
Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5990/1A-001: A large and attractive stainless steel automatic chronograph dual time wristwatch with date, bracelet, certificate of origin and box – Launched in 2014, Patek Philippe’s ref. 5990/1A-001 quickly attracted both loyal brand enthusiasts and watch lovers at large.
Considered to be the most complicated Nautilus ever made, it combines a dual-time zone with a flyback chronograph and day/night indicator. Estimate: CHF100,000-200,000 / €91,000-180,000 / USD110,000-220,000.
Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5711/1R-001: A 18K rose gold automatic wristwatch with sweep center seconds, date, bracelet, certificate of origin and box – This fresh-to-the-market Patek Philippe ref. 5711/1R-001 was purchased by the present owner, at Tiffany & Co. in New York.
Already one of the most coveted Patek Philippe contemporary timepieces, this reference 5711/1R-001 with the Tiffany & Co. signature is a grail example for Nautilus collectors. Made in limited numbers, the model has never been seen at public auction, a testimony of its exclusivity. Estimate: CHF140,000-235,000 / €130,000-210,000 / USD150,000-255,000.
Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 3700/11J: A very rare and highly attractive 18K gold automatic wristwatch with date, bracelet and original box – A superb example of the sought-after Nautilus series launched in 1980 and produced in very small numbers only.
According to experts, fewer than 300 examples of the model and its sister ref. 3700/1 in gold have appeared in public to date. Estimate: CHF100,000-200,000 / €91,000-180,000 / USD110,000-220,000.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3800, 38mm, stainless steel case and bracelet, black dial, automatic movement, circa 2000: CHF 20,000-CHF 40,000.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3801/1, 37mm, stainless steel case and bracelet, black matte dial, automatic movement, circa 1983. Estimate: CHF 20,000-CHF 40,000.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref.7010, Ladies’ watch, 32mm, 18 carat white gold case set with diamonds, quartz movement, silvered dial and leather strap with 18 carat white gold double deployant clasp, circa 2010. Estimate: CHF 20,000-CHF 40,000.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5712, 40mm, stainless steel case and bracelet, light blue dial with power reserve, moon phases and date display, automatic movement, circa 2017. Estimate: CHF 60,000-CHF 100,000.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3712, 42mm, stainless steel case and bracelet, light blue dial with power reserve, moon phases and date display, automatic movement, circa 2006. Estimate: CHF 75,000-CHF 110,000.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5726, 40mm stainless steel case, automatic annual calendar wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, moon phases, 24 hour indication, light black dial, leather strap with stainless steel double deployant clasp, circa 2017. Estimate: CHF 40,000-CHF 80,000.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5726, 40.5mm stainless steel case, automatic annual calendar wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, moon phases, 24 hour indication, white dial, leather strap with stainless steel double deployant clasp, circa 2017. Estimate: CHF 45,000-CHF 85,000.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref.5980, 40mm, stainless steel case and bracelet, light blue dial, chronograph and date functions, automatic movement, circa 2012. Estimate: CHF 80,000-CHF 120,000.
Vacheron Constantin Mystery table clock
An exceptional sculptural 18K gold, crystal, lapis lazuli, cacholong, silver-gilt, diamond, emerald and ruby-set 8-day. This exquisite three-dimensional mystery table clock is sculptural art as a horological masterpiece. This mystery tourbillon was created by Brun of Paris, based upon Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin’s invention. Here, the tourbillon carriage is fixed to the plate, creating the illusion of a clock floating in mid-air.
It is in fact powered through a glass plate mounted with teeth on its periphery which is in turn set between the concave rock crystal dial plates, with the tourbillon carriage revolving on the second axis once in fifteen minutes. Estimate: CHF140,000-230,000 / €130,000-210,000 / USD150,000-250,000).
The Christie’s ‘Rare Watches’ Geneva auction will also offer Vacheron Constantin wrist watches like:
Ref. 4072: Stainless Steel and 18K Pink Gold Chronograph, circa 1940
Ref. 30066: Malte Tourbillon – 18K Pink Gold Tonneau-Shaped Tourbillon with Date and Power Reserve, circa 2005.
Ref. 5300S/000R-B124: Harmony Chronograph – 18K Pink Gold Cushion-Shaped Single-Button Chronograph with Pulsometer Dial, circa 2016.
Ref. 47192: Malte Model- 18K White Gold and Pink Gold Chronograph, circa 2013.
Ref. 86060: Patrimony Traditionelle World Time Model in 18K Pink Gold, circa 2016.
Ref. 47120: Malte Model – 18K White Gold Chronograph, circa 2016.
Consigned by an important private collector and preserved in excellent condition Christie’s Geneva is delighted to present one of François-Paul Journe’s early Tourbillon Souverain timepieces from the year 2000. In 1999, Journe sold 20 Tourbillon Souverain wristwatches with a remontoir d’égalité by subscription, and collectors scrambled to obtain one.
This timepiece comes in platinum with a brass movement and a gold-coloured dial that is highly appreciated by collectors. 38mm case. Ref. T, NO. 168/02T, Circa 2002. Estimate: CHF240,000-330,000 / €220,000-300,000 / USD260,000-360,000.
(2) F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain
An extremely rare and magnificent limited edition tourbillon wristwatch in platinum with power reserve, constant-force remontoire, dead-beat seconds, mother-of-pearl dial, certificate and box – Extremely rare and of great interest and certain appeal to connoisseurs, the present timepiece is situated at the intersection of design, eccentricity and engineering. Exclusively made for the Singaporean retailer Sincere Fine Watches, this particular watch is part of a limited edition of 15 pieces only.
Crafted in platinum and featuring a black mother-of-pearl dial, the watch is a rare variant of the celebrated Tourbillon Souverain – and one of a small, yet significant collection of F.P. Journe watches made with a stone dial. 40mm diameter case, NO. 285-TN, circa 2007. Estimate: CHF300,000-500,000 / €280,000-450,000 / USD330,000-550,000.
(3) F.P. Journe reference TN
A very rare 18K rose gold tourbillon wristwatch with power reserve, constant-force remontoire, dead-beat seconds, certificate and box. Consigned by a private collector and in excellent overall condition, this is the highly sought-after rose gold version of the Reference TN – for Tourbillon Nouveau – introduced in 2004. It is the direct descendant of the celebrated Reference T, F.P. Journe’s first production watch and the first wristwatch ever with a constant-force remontoire. Applying a constant force to the balance wheel, whether the watch is fully wound or not, greatly increases precision.
François-Paul Journe’s ingenious masterpiece is the first wristwatch to combine a constant-force remontoire, dead-beat seconds and a tourbillon regulator. In 2004, the Tourbillon Souverain won the Aiguille d’Or at the Geneva Grand Prix d’Horlogerie and the Watch of the Year Award in Japan. 40mm diameter case, NO. 211-TN, Circa 2006. Estimate: CHF130,000-170,000 / €120,000-150,000 / USD140,000-180,000.
Also available: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain – An Extremely Rare And Early Platinum Tourbillon with Power Reserve, Constant Force Remontoir and Dead Beat Seconds, brass movement, 38mm diameter case, White gold and silver guilloche dial, manual-wound movement, Ref. T, NO. 134/01T, Circa 2001. Estimate: CHF 170,000 – CHF 230,000.
A. Lange & Söhne
A. Lange & Söhne ‘Pour le Mérite’ Tourbillon
An extremely rare 18K rose gold limited edition tourbillon wristwatch with fusée-and-chain transmission, power reserve and bracelet – Offered for the first time at Christie’s, the present timepiece is number 112 of a strictly limited edition of 150 examples of the Tourbillon ‘Pour le Mérite’.
Made for some of the firm’s most loyal clients, the model has only been seen twice at auction, a testament to its exclusiveness. According to A. Lange & Söhne, of the 150 examples produced, 24 pieces were crafted in rose gold, 19 in white gold, 106 in yellow gold and 1 in stainless steel. Estimate: CHF110,000-170,000 / €100,000-150,000 / USD120,000-180,000.
Also available: A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon Pour Le Merite Ref. 751.005, Platinum case and bracelet, 38mm diameter case, Silvered dial and manual-winding movement, circa 1998. Estimate: CHF 75,000 – CHF 90,000.
Other important A. Lange & Söhne models available are the Duoble Split Flyback Model in 18K Pink Gold (ref. 404.032, circa 2011), the Datograph Perpetual Model in Pink Gold (ref. 410.032, circa 2011), the Langematik Perpetual in Platinum (ref. 310.025E, circa 2010), the Datograph Flyback Model in Platinum (ref. 403.035, circa 2002), the Pink Gold Zeitwerk Model (ref. 140.032, circa 2010),and the Langematik Perpetual watch in Pink Gold (ref. 310.032, circa 2010).
Breguet Pocket watches
The Christie’s ‘Rare Watches’ Geneva auction is offering a number of historically important pocket watches like:
Breguet Pocket watch, No. 195/3759: 18K gold open-face self-winding minute repeating jumping hour lever watch with free sprung helical balance spring and 60-hour power reserve. Belong to 3rd series ‘Montre Perpétuelle’. Construction of this pocket watch’s movement begun circa 1797, sold in 1807, resold on 28 May 1821 to Monsieur Henry Perkins. 53mm diameter case in 18k gold, White enamel dial made by Morimont. Estimate: CHF 240,000 – CHF 280,000.
Breguet Pocket Watch, No. 1348: 20K gold open-face cylinder pocket watch with days of the week indication, annual Gregorian calendar, additional gold index for the Julian calendar, signs of the Zodiac and special disengaging equation of time mechanism. 62mm diameter 20K gold case made by Guillaume Mermillod, White enamel dial, Sold on 21 August 1805 to Messieurs Meyer et Tues. Estimate: CHF 180,000 – CHF 280,000.
Breguet Pocket Watch No. 2166: 18K gold open-face minute repeating Grande et Petite Sonnerie striking clock watch with four gongs, lateral lever escapement, triple train with independent trains for the going, striking and chiming. 55.5mm diameter case in 18K gold, White enamel dial. Sold on 1 May 1810 to Count Golovkin via Breguet’s agent Maison de Russie. Estimate: CHF 140,000 – CHF 180,000.
(1) Rolex ‘Jean-Claude Killy’ reference 6036 in yellow gold, circa 1953
This timepiece is the third generation of the celebrated Dato-Compax Oyster triple calendar chronograph, the most complicated timepiece ever proposed by Rolex.
The family of Rolex Dato-Compax calendar chronograph wristwatches. 39mm diameter case, automatic movement, silvered dial. Estimate: CHF 140,000 – CHF 230,000.
The Christie’s ‘Rare Watches’ Geneva auction is offering a number of submariner models like ref.1680 (circa 1979), ref.116619LB ‘SMURF’ (circa 2007), ref.5513 (circa 1988), ref.16660 COMEX (circa 1984) and ref.1680 COMEX (circa 1978).
The auction is also offering some spectacular Rolex Day-Date watches like:
Reference 118386: Rolex Day-Date, Diamond set platinum case with 36mm diameter, Diamond paved dial, diamond-set president bracelet in platinum and automatic movement, circa 2001. Estimate: CHF 80,000 – CHF 120,000.
Reference 18188: Rolex Day-Date, 36mm diameter 18K gold case set with diamond, ruby, emerald and sapphire, Champagne color dial with diamond-set hour markers, Automatic movement, 18k gold Rolex President bracelet, circa 1987. Estimate: CHF 55,000 – CHF 85,000.
Reference 118208: Rolex Day-Date, 36mm diameter case in 18K gold, Grossular garnet rubellite dial with diamond-set hour markers, Automatic movement, 18K pink gold oyster bracelet, circa 2002: Estimate: CHF 26,000 – CHF 50,000.
Reference 18038: Rolex Day-Date, 36mm diameter case in 18K gold, Ammonite dial with diamond-set quarter hour markers, Automatic movement, 18k gold Rolex President bracelet, circa 1993. Estimate: CHF 20,000 – CHF 30,000.
Reference 18038: Rolex Day-Date, 36mm diameter case in 18K gold, Yellow mother-of-pearl dial with Roman numeral hour-markers, Automatic movement, 18k gold Rolex president bracelet, circa 1986. Estimate: CHF 15,000 – CHF 25,000.
Reference 118296: Rolex Day-Date Platinum watch, 36mm diameter case, Silvered dial with diamond-set hour markers, Automatic movement and Platinum president bracelet, circa 2000. Estimate: CHF 14,000 – CHF 28,000.
Reference 118239: Rolex Day-Date 18K White Gold watch, 36mm diameter case, Pink mother-of-pearl dial with diamond-set hour markers, Automatic movement and 18k white gold Rolex president bracelet, circa 2006. Estimate: CHF 12,000 – CHF 18,000.
Reference 118238: Rolex Day-Date 18K Gold watch, 36mm diameter case, Black mother-of-pearl dial with diamond-set hour markers, Automatic movement and 18k gold Rolex president bracelet, circa 2000. Estimate: CHF 12,000 – CHF 18,000.
Reference 1803: Rolex Day-Date 18K Gold watch, 36mm diameter case, Red degradé (vignette)dial with diamond-set hour markers, Automatic movement, circa 1971. Estimate: CHF 12,000 – CHF 18,000.
Live auction | 10 May, Four Seasons les Bergues, (230 lots, estimation: CHF 12,786,900)
Christie’s Rare Watches New York: Online (16 – 26 April) achieved a total of $7,826,250 with 95% sold by lot, 100% sold by value, and 139%hammer above low estimate. There was global participation with bidders from 41 countries and over 27% new registrants.
Leading the sale was a superb Cartier Mystery clock known as “Model A” that sold for $562,500. Manufactured in 1919, the timepiece is an exceptionally rare and early example of the first type of mystery clock created by Louis Cartier and master clockmaker Maurice Coüet (1885-1963).
There were very strong results for Patek Philippe with an 18K yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph ref. 2499/100 selling for $475,000; the exceptional 18K white gold reference 3448 achieving $350,000; and a platinum Nautilus reference 3800/3P selling for $150,000 against its low estimate of $14,000.
Total: $7,826,250 95% sold by lot | 100% sold by value 139% hammer above low estimate
Top 20 achievers
Cartier Pendule Mysterieuse ‘Model A’ (Art Deco Rock Crystal, Gold, Agate, Enamel, Mother-Of-Pearl, Onyx and Diamond-Set ‘Mystery Clock’) circa 1928: Sold for USD 562,500
Patek Philippe 18k Yellow Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, Ref. 2499/100, 37.6mm case, Silvered dial and Manual-winding movement, circa 1984: Sold for USD 475,000
Patek Philippe White Gold Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 3448, 37mm case, Silvered dial and Automatic movement, circa 1974: Sold for USD 350,000
Patek Philippe 18k Yellow Gold “Cathedral” Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5074J, 42mm case, Silvered dial and Automatic movement, circa 2003 : Sold for USD 350,000
Patek Philippe 18k Yellow Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, Ref. 1518, 35mm case, Silvered dial and Manual winding movement, circa 1949: Sold for USD 325,000
Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Chronograph, 35mm case, matte-silver dial and manual wound movement, circa 1946, Ref. 1463: Sold for USD 275,000
Patek Philippe 18k Yellow Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, Ref. 2499 3rd Series, 37.6mm case, slivered dial and manual-winding movement, circa 1973: Sold for USD 275,000
Patek Philippe 18k Yellow Gold Minute Repeating watch, Ref. 3979 – 150th Anniversary of Patek Philippe, Porcelain white dial and automatic movement, circa 1989: Sold for USD 212,500
Patek Philippe 18k Yellow Gold Perpetual Calendar Split Seconds Chronograph, Ref. 5004J, 36.5mm case, silvered dial and manual winding movement, circa 1999: Sold for USD 187,500
Fabergé Two-Color Gold, Silver-Gilt, Guilloché Enamel and Pearl-Set Desk Timepiece, Marked Fabergé with Imperial Warrant, Moscow, 1896-1908, White enamel dial and manual wound movement: Sold for USD 187,500
Black, Starr & Frost, New York, Made By Rubel Frères, Paris, Lapis Lazuli, Black Onyx, Rock Crystal, Mother-Of-Pearl, Gold And Platinum Mystery Clock Inspired By The Aztec Sun Stone, with manual-winding 8-Days movement, circa 1920: Sold for USD 150,000
Patek Philippe Platinum Nautilus Watch, Ref. 3800/3P, 37.5mm case, blue-ribbed dial and automatic movement, circa 1993: Sold for USD 150,000
Patek Philippe 18k Yellow Gold Chronograph, Ref. 1463 – Retailed By Tiffany & Co., 35mm case, silvered dial and manual-wound movement, circa 1968: Sold for USD 137,500
Patek Philippe 18k Yellow Gold Chronograph, Ref. 1463, 35mm case, silvered dial and manual-wound movement, circa 1966: Sold for USD 125,000
Patek Philippe Platinum 10 Day Tourbillon, Ref. 5101P, Rectangular case (30mm X 51mm), salmon color dial and manual-wound tourbillon movement with 10 days power reserve, circa 2004: Sold for USD 125,000
Patek Philippe 18k Yellow Gold Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 3448, 37mm case, silvered dial and automatic movement with perpetual calendar and moonphase, circa 1963: Sold for USD 118,750
Fritz-André Robert-Charrue 18K Pink Gold Pocket Watch, The World’s Smallest Tourbillon, 23.8mm case, matte-silver dial, manual-wound movement, circa 1945: Sold for USD 106,250
Omega Steel Speedmaster Broad Arrow 2nd Generation, Ref. 2915-2, 39mm case, black dial and manual-wound chronograph movement, circa 1958: Sold for USD 93,750
Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Minute Repeating Tourbillon Pink Gold Limited Edition, Ref. 25858OR, 40mm case, black dial and manual-wound movement, circa 2000: Sold for USD 87,500
Patek Philippe 18k Yellow Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, Ref. 3970/2, 36mm case, silvered dial and manual winding movement, circa 2002: Sold for USD 81,250
Christie’s has announced the key highlights of their upcoming Hong Kong Watch auction, which is scheduled to take place on Saturday, May 22nd, 2021 at the HK Convention and Exhibition Centre. The auction will have two parts: the first historic “Evening Watch Sale” hosted by Christie’s in HK (at 7pm) and ‘An Exceptional Season of Watches’ scheduled at 2pm.
The Evening Sale – The Legends of Time
On 22 May 2021 at 7:00PM, Christie’s Watches Department will be holding the first historic watch standalone evening sale in Hong Kong. From the 1800s to the modern era: The extraordinary selection of 18 timepieces curated under the theme ‘The Legends of Time’ is bound to astound the watch loving and collecting community – museums and collectors – with its rarity and outstanding quality.
These 18 lots have the potential to break the record for any watch sale ever held in Asia. The sale is a once in a lifetime opportunity to glimpse some of the most extraordinary creations in watchmaking history. The event will take place at the HK Convention and Exhibition Centre. Key highlights are:
Patek Philippe Ref. 3448J ‘Senza Luna’
Alan Banbery’s yellow gold Patek Philippe ref. 3448J ‘Senza Luna’ perpetual calendar wristwatch is one of the most famous wristwatches in the world.
This exceptional and historically important 18K gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with an English calendar, prototype leap year indication and ‘no moon’ was manufactured in 1970, and especially modified by request of Henri and Philippe Stern in 1975 as a unique piece for presentation to Alan Banbery. Estimate: HKD24.8 Million – 40 Million/ US$3.2 Million – 5.162 Million.
Patek Philippe ‘Gradowski’ Grande Complication
The Unique ‘Gradowski’ Grande Complication is Patek Philippe’s Earliest Grande Complication Watch. At the time it was made in 1890, this extraordinary horological masterpiece was the most complicated watch Patek Philippe had ever produced.
It featured a unique minute repeater with two-train Grande et Petite Sonnerie movement, keyless lever, instantaneous perpetual calendar, indications for both the Julian and Gregorian calendars, moon phases and a chronograph with central 60-minute recorder. Of museum quality, this timepiece comes before Graves’s famous Grande Complication, making it even more historically important. Estimate: HKD4 Million – 12 Million/ US$517,000 – 1.549 Million.
Patek Philippe Ref. 1415 HU in 18K Pink Gold
The auction will also offer a selection of stunning enamel timepieces, including a rare Patek Philippe ref. 1415 HU in 18K pink gold.
This small (31mm) timepiece from the 1950s is only one of two models known to exist, and this one features a rare and unusual polychrome cloisonné enamel dial. Estimate: HKD 8 Million – 24 Million/ US$1.033 Million– 3.097 Million.
Patek Philippe ref. 2481J
The next highlight in the enamel watches is an extremely rare Patek Philippe ref. 2481J, manufactured 1954, with a unique lighthouse enamel design presented in 18K yellow gold. This centre-seconds timepiece depicts a cloisonné enamel scene depicted in exceptional and flamboyant colours.
The timepiece was crafted at a time when enamel paints were of the highest quality thanks to the inclusion of mercury, which is forbidden today. It would thus be impossible to recreate the same colourful scene using contemporary enamels. Estimate: HKD2 Million – 6 Million/ US$259,000 – 775,000.
Piguet & Capt. Musical Timekeeper with Automaton
As part of a pair, a magnificent and particularly rare musical timekeeper with automaton in 18K gold with pearls and enamel is also presented at the Christie’s Hong Kong evening auction.
Attributed to Piguet & Capt. and made for the Chinese market, this horological treasure comes in the form of an amphora and is adorned with the most sublime miniature enamel -attributed to Jean-Louis Richter, renderings that take the object far beyond the art of fine watchmaking alone. The other timekeeper which completes the pair is currently displayed in the Patek Philippe Museum. Estimate: HKD8 Million – 40 Million/ US$1.033 Million – 5 Million.
Flintlock Pistol Style Perfume Spray with clock
Continuing along the same theme of horological objets d’art, on offer is a perfume spray that comes in the form of a Flintlock pistol featuring a clock in the grip made for the Chinese market.
Attributed to Moulinié, Bautte & Cie or J.B.Garrand, Geneva, and decorated to the highest level of hand craftsmanship in 18K gold with enamel and pearls, the pistol sprays perfume when pulling the trigger. Estimate: HKD800,000– 2.4 Million/ US$104,000 – 310,000.
Patek Philippe World Time Platinum Reference 1415 HU
A superstar in the upcoming auction is unique and extremely important platinum Patek Philippe World Time wristwatch manufactured in 1946. There is only one platinum reference 1415 HU in the world.
In 2002 it became the most expensive wristwatch ever sold at auction, realizing an astonishing 6,603,500 Swiss Francs, a record that remained unbroken for some years after. Estimate: HKD8 Million – 24 Million/ US$ 1.033 Million – 3.097 Million.
Patek Philippe Two-crown World Time Ref. 2523-1
The next highlight is an extremely rare Patek Philippe two-crown World Time wristwatch ref. 2523-1 from the 1950s. It is much larger than the other World Timers presented in this sale and thinner than the reference 2523 recognizable by its wide lugs.
This timepiece has a unique dial, as the hands and indexes are enhanced with luminescence. This watch comes with a unique, specially made gold bracelet that is detachable. Only 15 pieces of this reference 2523-1 were produced in 18K yellow gold. Estimate: HKD8 Million – 24 Million/ US$1.033 Million – 3.097 Million.
Patek Philippe Ref. 1579R
The auction will also feature several exciting one-of-a-kind timepieces, including this rare Patek Philippe ref. 1579R chronograph wristwatch in 18K pink gold.
The tachymeter and spider lugs, and especially the unique bezel catch the eye. Manufactured in 1950, this elegant wristwatch has the double signature of Patek Philippe and its original retailer, Gobbi Milano. Estimate: HKD 3.2 Million – 6.5 Million/ US$ 413,000 – 839,000.
The Day Sale – An Exceptional Season Of Watches
The Day Sale offers 147 lots, including 56 Patek Philippe timepieces (vintage, modern and contemporary) as well as a captivating selection of 36 unusual and high-quality Rolexes, and a unique F. P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain made for none other than Master Watchmaker George Daniels.
Christie’s will present a remarkable selection of vintage and modern Rolexes, many of which have unique dials or cases that make them of particular interest to collectors. One of the most popular watches in the line-up is the new, and yet extremely hard-to-find, Rolex Daytona Rainbow ref.116595RBOW in pink gold (estimate: HKD 2.6 Million – 3.6 Million / US$336,000 – 465,000).
There will also be a rare Rolex Daytona ref. 16519 in white gold with salmon dial made in very small numbers and rare at auction (estimate: HKD 1.5 Million – 3 Million/ US$194,000 – 388,000).
Equally rare is the Rolex Daytona ref. 16528 in yellow gold with a blue dial from the 1990s, claimed to be made for the CEO and board of directors of Rolex (estimate: HKD 2 Million – 4 Million/ US$ 259,000 – 517,000).
Also in the sale, a Rolex Daytona ref. 6240 with a floating ‘Small Daytona’ that is separate from the other lines on the dial. This timepiece comes with all its original features, including the initial pushers and Mark I bezel. Estimate: HKD 1 Million – 2 Million/ US$ 130,000 – 259,000.
A lesser-known model on offer is the Rolex Milgauss Mark I ref. 6541 that comes with the beautiful tropical dial. Estimate: HKD 2 Million – 3 Million/ US$ 259,000 – 388,000.
The Rolex Submariner ref. 5514 ‘Comex’ (estimate: HKD 1.3 Million – 2.3 Million/ US$ 168,000 – 297,000) was originally made for professional industrial divers working at Comex in the South of France. These pieces were never commercialized, making them highly collectible today. Prices have increased dramatically over the last few years.
Another interesting Submariner on offer is the Rolex Submariner ref. 6538 (estimate: HKD 1 Million – 2 Million/ US$ 130,000 – 259,000). This timepiece has a big crown specially conceived to meet the needs of divers, with its dial showing various patinas and beautiful sweeping tropical patches.
Two rare manual-winding Rolex Daytonas will also be unveiled. The Rolex Daytona ref. 6239 ‘Solo’ from the 60s that only has the inscription ‘Rolex’ on the dial (estimate: HKD 900,000 – 1.8 Million/ US$ 117,000 – 233,000). This solo inscription was soon complemented by ‘Cosmograph’ and ‘Daytona,’ making this model quite remarkable.
The second piece is a Rolex Daytona ref. 6239 ‘Cherry’ featuring a big red ‘Daytona’ cherry-coloured logo at the six o’clock position (estimate: HKD 650,000– 1 Million/ US$ 84,000 – 130,000). These red logos were produced early on before being stopped and then reintroduced again in the 1970s, which makes them quite sought-after.
Christie’s Hong Kong has the very special honour and privilege of presenting a special F. P. Journe timepiece, which Journe made especially for George Daniels, who was his friend, muse, and mentor. During a dinner organized by John and William Asprey in London in 2010, Journe offered Daniels a unique Chronomètre Souverain in platinum that he had made for his friend. The balance wheel is inscribed with “FP to George Daniels, My Mentor 2010” (estimate: HKD 2 Million – 6 Million / US$259,000 – 775,000).
A rare F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain is for sale in platinum (estimate: HKD 1.4 Million – 2.4 Million/ US$ 181,000 – 310,000).
Other highlights include an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition in platinum (estimate: HKD 1.4 Million – 2.4 Million/ US$ 181,000 – 310,000), joined by a rare Harry Winston Minute Repeater Limited Edition with the most beautiful chime (estimate: HKD 550,000 – 850,000 / US$ 71,000 – 110,000), and a Christophe Claret X-TREM Pinball Tourbillon, one of a very small series (estimate: HKD 500,000 – 1 Million/ US$ 65,000 – 130,000).
On offer are two magnificent Haute Joaillerie pieces: a Piaget Aura with diamonds and rubies with a splendid bracelet made by the Maison’s artisans (estimate: HKD 650,000 – 1.2 Million / US$ 84,000 – 155,000) and a Chanel’s iconic J12 (estimate: HKD 800,000 – 1.6 Million/ US$ 104,000 – 207,000) dressed in black ceramic with baguette diamonds and rubies and a full pavé bracelet with baguette diamonds. Only five pieces were made with this design.
Saturday, May 22nd, 2021 at 2pm: Day sale ‘An Exceptional Season of Watches’
Saturday, May 22nd, 2021 at 7pm: Evening sale ‘The Legends of Time’
19 May – 2 June 2021: Online sale ‘Watches Online’
Christie’s New York presents a diverse selection of timepieces and horological treasures in its upcoming sale. The auction offers152 lots estimated at approx. $5 million. This online auction combines a choice of iconic timepieces bound to appeal to appreciators of the finer things contemplating a classic for their wrist, and a rare selection of exquisite watches for connoisseurs seeking that rare addition to their collection.
Curated for collectors
Patek Philippe Chronograph in Yellow Gold, Ref.1463, Signed Tiffany & Co.
One of the highlights of Christie’s New York’s spring auction is an extremely fine and rare 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe chronograph ref.1463, signed Tiffany & Co. This unusual reference is particularly appreciated for its vintage chronograph dial design and prominent pushers on the case. The Tiffany & Co. name on the dial will be of interest to Christie’s American clients, as the iconic luxury jeweller was the first U.S. partner of the Geneva-based brand.
Tiffany & Co. began selling watches in 1847 and signed an agreement with Patek Philippe in 1851, becoming the first retailer in the U.S. to carry this prestigious watch marque in its 5th Avenue boutique – and the only American retailer to have its name featured on the dial. This particular watch was manufactured in 1968. Estimate: $100,000-$180,000.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar in White Gold, Ref.3448
Introduced in 1962, the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar, 18K white gold, ref.3448 was the first automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch produced in series by any manufacturer and is the perfect embodiment of a transitional period in the evolution of watchmaking design.
Wristwatches had moved from the flamboyant cases and multi-tone sector dials of the 1920s and 1930s to the military-flavoured creations of the 1940s, with telemeter and tachymeter railroad scales. With the 1950s and 60s, a new trend took shape: the technological advances of the time inspired, in all fields of design, futuristic shapes and a more restrained look. This watch was manufactured in 1974. Estimate: $250,000-$450,000.
Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar in Yellow Gold, Ref.5074J
The Patek Philippe Minute repeater Perpetual Calendar ref.5074J is one of the most technically complex and aesthetically appealing modern Patek Philippe wristwatches. Produced in yellow gold from 2001 to 2005, in pink gold since 2005 and in platinum since 2009, the return to market ratio is extremely small, indicating the deep attachment of collectors to this model.
The dial with its three subsidiary counters recalls the balanced design of mid-20th century perpetual calendars. The broad stepped bezel, is a trait typical of modern watchmaking, as is its impressive diameter of 42 mm. Within resides the legendary Cathédrale repeating mechanism, consisting of a high-tone and a low-tone gong. This particular watch was manufactured in 2003. Estimate: $200,000-$400,000.
Patek Philippe 10-day Tourbillon in Platinum, Ref.5101P
The auction will also include an unusual rectangular 950 platinum Patek Philippe 10-day tourbillon ref.5101P chronometer wristwatch with a 10-day power reserve. This very fine watch joins in a small space two complications that normally claim much more room: a series-connected double barrel for 10 days of power reserve and a tourbillon, which turns around its own axis once per minute behind the case back with a sapphire crystal.
Typical of the Patek Philippe ref.5101: the elaborate interior cannot be seen from the outside. Only the tiny print ‘Tourbillon,’ the individual movement number and the 10-day power reserve indicator hint at the extraordinary movement. The example was manufactured in 2004. Estimate: $110,000– $180,000.
Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Yellow Gold, Ref.5004J
The iconic Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref.5004J combines the manufacture’s highly sought-after split-second chronograph with a perpetual calendar, moon phases, as well as 24-hour and leap year indication, all this displays on arguably one of the most classically beautiful dials ever created by Patek Philippe.
The movement, Calibre CHR 27-70, is not only marvellous to admire, it is also based on Patek’s most venerable chronograph base movement, Calibre CH 27. A hand wound chronograph of most traditional construction, revered by collectors, and here finished and assembled by the eminent specialists in the complications department. Estimate: $120,000– $180,000.
Cartier Mystery Clock
The Cartier Mystery Clock, Pendule Mystérieuse “Modèle A” is anexceptionally early and rare example of the first type of mystery clock created by Louis Cartier and master clockmaker Maurice Coüet (1885-1963). Inspired by popular 19th century French illusionist and watchmaker Jean Eugène Robert-Houdin, Coüet blended exquisite craftsmanship with the most sophisticated mechanisms, resulting in works that continue to entertain and fascinate the observer with their illusion and beauty.
As every component of the clock was painstakingly made by hand, each clock took from three to twelve months to make, involving a watchmaker, designer, orfèvre-boîtier (‘case goldsmith’), enameler, lapidary, gem setter, engraver and polisher.
Mystery clocks are considered by many to be one of the House of Cartier’s greatest achievements. This Mystery Clock was manufactured in 1919. Estimate: $300,000-$500,000.
Vacheron Constantin Tourbillon Ref. 92544/000G
This timepiece represents a singular collaboration between Vacheron Constantin and Asprey. Possibly Unique Tourbillon Pocket Watch. Made to special order for a distinguished client of Vacheron Constantin, the present Tourbillon ref. 92544/000G featuring a white gold case and a trapezoid-cut diamond-set bezel is believed to be a unique piece and certainly among the most impressive tourbillon watches by the celebrated house ever offered at auction.
One of the most discerning complications, the tourbillon regulator, is fitted in a sumptuous state of the art white gold and diamond-set case. It is an absolute rarity. The movement was manufactured in 1945, the case in 1993. Estimate: $50,000-$70,000.
For appreciators of the finer things and lovers of the exceptional, the sale presents an opportunity to acquire a classic of watchmaking for the day to day wear.
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, Ref.6265
A major attraction in the category is fine and well-preserved Rolex, ref.6265 Model Cosmograph Daytona, manual winding, offered by the original owner. It is one of the last models equipped with hand-wound movements, making it one of the most desirable pieces in the Daytona collection.
Launched in the late 1960s, references 6263 and 6265 replaced the first Oyster Cosmograph model, ref. 6240. Then, in 1969 came ref. 6265, which was to be produced until the late 1980s. This reference remains one of the most popular and coveted vintage chronograph models. This watch was manufactured circa 1980. Estimate: $35,000– $55,000.
Christie’s Watches Online: The Dubai Edit (24 March-8 April 2021) achieved a total of $14,120,250 with 89% sold by lot, 100% sold by value, and 131% hammer above low estimate. This exceptional result doubles the previous record for any Christie’s watches online auction, set in December 2020 in New York at $7,743,37.
There was global participation from 37 countries with a total of 558 registrants. This sale has expanded its reach by welcoming participants from 13 new countries for the first time, including Norway, Darussalam and Uganda. Building on the outreach of digital and its 24/7 availability combined with the convenience of a physical viewing in accordance with local covid-19 regulations in the DIFC in Dubai, the sale attracted more than 30,000 visitors online, while the appointment only preview exhibition in the Dubai Christie’s office was fully booked throughout the two weeks.
The top lot of the sale was Patek Philippe’s Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 5002, one of the most important watches ever made in modern history. It sold for $1,590,000, setting two new records simultaneously, as the most expensive watch sold at auction in the Middle East plus the new auction record for any watch sold online at Christie’s, previously standing at $600,000 (December 2020 for a ref 1462 by Patek Philippe), established in March 2018 when the Patek Philippe ref 1518 once owned by King Farouk of Egypt sold for $912,500.
The Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 5002 was inspired by the Star Caliber 2000, a double-sided pocket watch built to commemorate the new millennium, and boasts a whopping 12 complications with a movement made up of 686 parts.
The complications include the tourbillon, perpetual calendar, moon age, leap year cycle, day of the week, month, date, fly back, minute repeater, sky chart, moon phases and orbit. The reverse dial reveals the angular progression of the stars and moon from the Northern Hemisphere and allows the wearer to observe the waxing and waning of the Earth’s satellite.
Remy Julia, Head of Dubai Watches Department and in charge of the Dubai Edit auction, commented, “These very strong results of the sale demonstrate the continued strength of Christie’s online platform and its ability to reach the broadest possible global audience, establishing the highest value online watches sale ever offered at Christie’s. Additionally, this sale was the first Christie’s online auction to offer a timepiece with an estimate of over $1,00,000 and we are delighted that the Patek Philippe reference 5002 sold for $1,590,000, setting a new record for a watch sold online at Christie’s and for any watch sold at auction in the Middle East. This sale reinforces Christie’s online-first strategy and the strong appetite of our collectors from around the world. The sale opens the watch season 2021 on a very high level and will be remembered as one of the most exciting for Watches at Christie’s and the entire industry.”
Other noteworthy results included two Gérald Genta watches (lot 127 and 128) as well as a Patek Philippe ref 2499 3rd series, representing the most competitive watches of the sale, receiving immense interest and bids from around the globe.
Lot 128, La Grande Sonnerie No.1, in platinum ref G0025.7 by Gérald Genta was estimated at $30,000-40,000 and sold for $500,000, while lot 127, a yellow gold Grand Sonnerie No.3 by Genta achieved 10 times its low estimate, selling for $300,000.
Lot 161, the Patek Philippe ref 2499, 3rd series sold also for $300,000. Another Patek Philippe, this time ref. 5104P, a platinum and gold minute repeater with perpetual calendar, made in 2009, sold for $750,000, and lot 136, a rare 1952 steel Rolex, triple calendar chronograph Snow Compax, ref 6036, tripled its pre-sale estimate and found a new owner at $350,000.
Top achievers (Sold above USD 100,000)
Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon in Platinum (Ref. 5002P-001): USD 1,590,000
Patek Philippe Platinum and Gold Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 5104P): USD 750,000
Patek Philippe Platinum Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater (Ref. 5074P): USD 525,000
On 24 March 2021, Christie’s announced the launch of Dubai Edit online-only watch auction. The team of experts at Christie’s in Dubai have curated close to 200 lots which together are estimated to fetch from USD 9,000,000 to 15,000,000. The auction is restricted to a timeframe of 16 days in which registered bidders will be able to track specific lots and interact directly with the Christie’s platform.
Among the watches to be auctioned, there will be some of the most in-demand references, from grand complications by Patek Philippe and Gerald Genta to collectible minute repeaters, a selection of Rolex tool watches, from the Dato-Compax reference 6036 to the Rolex Big Crown reference 5510, as well as an impressive line-up of rare watches from one of the most coveted independent watchmakers, F.P Journe.
Highlights include the exceptionally rare Ref. 5002P Sky Moon Tourbillon in platinum (est. USD 1,000,000-1,800,000), which was not only the most complicated watch produced by Patek Philippe at the time, but also the first ever double-faced wristwatch in the Geneva manufacturer’s history –and is sure to elicit keen interest on the part ofdiscerning collectors from around the globe.
Two other exceptional Patek Philippe timepieces will also be presented during this auction, both of which possibly have unique dials: the Ref. 3990P with a light grey dial and the Ref. 5004R with a ruby dial. They are joined by a selection of exceptional minute repeaters of the same marque, such as the Ref. 5074P minute repeater perpetual calendar (est. USD 400,000-700,000), the imposing Ref. 5014P semi-skeletonised minute repeater perpetual calendar (est. USD 400,000-600,000), and the elusive pink gold Ref. 5029 minute repeater (est. USD 250,000-350,000) made in 10 pieces per metal (yellow gold, pink gold, white gold and platinum) to commemorate the anniversary of the manufacture in 1997. The Ref. 5071P and the Ref. 5971P lead the impressive selection of highly collectible baguette diamond-set watches that are certain to draw international attention.
Among the vintage Rolex watches highest on the desirability index, an extremely well-preserved Rolex Dato-Compax Ref. 6036, produced circa 1952 (est. USD 100,000-180,000). ‘Collectible Tool Watches’ include a Rolex Submariner Ref. 5510 “Big Crown” (USD 125,000-200,000), a Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 1665 “Patent Pending” (USD 90,000-120,000), and a rare Rolex Ref. 3525 chronograph in astonishing condition (USD 150,000-300,000).
Trends on point, the team has curated a selection of 7 F.P. Journe watches, including 3 platinum timepieces from before 2004, particularly coveted and recognisable by their rhodium-plated brass movements: Resonance (est. USD 150,000-250,000), Zodiac, of which only 150 pieces were made, (USD 100,000-150,000) and Octa Automatique with an elegant pink dial (USD 100,000-150,000).
In addition to the four Patek Philippe minute repeaters, the auction will also feature 3 examples of Grande Complication, and what was at the time among the most complicated and expensive wristwatches in the world: the Gerald Genta Grande Sonnerie and Petite Sonnerie timepieces made in 1994 to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Manufacture.
Also on offer is an exotic set of six medium-sized Audemars Piguet Royal Oak jewellery watches and a unique diamond, ruby, sapphire and emerald-set brooch in white gold indicating three time zones (London, Mecca, and Brunei).
Watches with regional relevance will also be presented. The selection features vintage Rolex Day-Date Ref. 1804 models with Eastern Arabic numerals (also called Hindi numerals) or featuring the official crests of regional royalty or armed forces. Prominent timepieces by independent watchmakers with a strong link to the UAE include MB&F LM1 M.A.D. Dubai limited edition and Richard Mille RM 010 MBZ Abu Dhabi Grand Prix edition.
All lots will be on view at Christie’s, Dubai DIFC Gate Village 5, Podium Level, between 24 March and 8 April, 2021, by appointment only.
Lot 1: Patek Philippe, An Extremely Rare Platinum double dialled wristwatch with 12 complications, Sky Moon Tourbillon, Ref. 5002P-001
Case number: 4’214’430, Movement number: 3’350’014
Case: Platinum, screw-set lugs, case band and minute repeating slide finely engraved with halved Calatrava crosses, two crowns both embossed with a Calatrava cross for winding and setting.
Diameter: 43 mm.
Strap: Patek Philippe blue CROCODILE leather strap
Dial: Front: Opaline dial with Patek Philippe Calatrava cross embossing, applied white gold Roman numerals, four subsidiary dials indicating day, month, leap year and ages of the moon, retrograde date display in red enamel.
Dial: Reverse: made of sapphire crystal glass with silvered 24 hours scale and Arabic numerals around inside edge for sidereal time, planisphere of the Northern Hemisphere rotating counterclockwise above the dial, disc with moon-phase display, white lacquered gold feuille hour and minute hands.
Movement: Cal. RTO 27 QR SID LU CL, manual-winding with tourbillon escapement, 686 parts, COSC-certified chronometer
Functions: Time, minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, leap year cycle, retrograde date, sky chart, moon-phase, orbit of the moon, sidereal time
Buckle: Patek Philippe platinum buckle
With: Leather-bound Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin confirming the date of purchase as October 11, 2004, a Geneva Hallmark Certificate from the Canton of Geneva indicating the COSC test results, original mahogany wood presentation box, and outer packaging.
The Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 5002 is one of the most important watches ever to have been made in modern history. Made between 2001 and 2012, this watch was reserved for Patek Philippe’s most important clients. Prospective owners would have to submit an application to qualify as a prospective buyer. After an interview, prospective buyers would be entered into a waiting list before they got a chance to own this timepiece.
Inspired by the Star Caliber 2000, a double-sided pocket watch built to commemorate the new millennium, the Sky Moon tourbillon boasts a whopping 12 complications and a movement made up of 686 parts. The complications include the tourbillon, perpetual calendar, moon age, leap year cycle, day of the week, month, date, fly back, minute repeater, sky chart, moon phases and orbit.
The reverse dial reveals the angular progression of the stars and moon from the Northern Hemisphere and allows the wearer to observe the waxing and waning of the Earth’s satellite.
Lot 21: Audemars Piguet, A superlative set of six gold bejewelled Royal Oak wristwatches presented in its original presentation box
(1) Ref. 14892BA, A Gold Royal Oak with a bezel set with 32 baguette rubies, circa: 1990s
Case: 18k yellow gold, bezel set with 32 baguette rubies (2.12 carat), caseback stamped No.1
Diameter: 36 mm.
Strap: Audemars Piguet red CROCODILE leather strap
Dial: Gilt satin dial with 3 baguette rubies and 8 diamonds
With: An original Certificate of Warranty from Almar Watches, Burlington Arcade, London, confirming the date of purchase as 31 May, 2016
Audemars Piguet’s iconic Royal Oak is a design icon and is best known for heralding the age of the luxury steel sports watch. However, here in a special and extremely collectible set of six timepieces, it is interpreted as a stunning set of six bejewelled watches housed in a special signed wooden presentation box.
Each of these high jewellery timepieces sees the Royal Oak’s characteristic octagonal bezel set with either 32 baguette emeralds, baguette sapphires, or baguette rubies.
Three of the watches are further distinguished by lugs studded with 64 brilliant diamonds and dials paved with diamonds and precious stones. According the archivists at Audemars Piguet, this exotic set was first sold in London in 1994. All six timepieces are presented with an official Certificate of Warranty from renowned London retailer Almar that confirms the sale of the set on 31 May, 2016.
Lot 51: Rolex, A Platinum Oyster Perpetual Day-Date with diamond-set bezel and Arabic calendar and numerals, Ref. 1804, Circa: 1960
Case: Platinum with diamond-set bezel
Diameter: 36 mm.
Bracelet: Platinum Rolex President bracelet, overall length 190 mm.
Dial: Silvered with white gold applied Arabic numerals
Movement: Caliber 1555, automatic
Functions: Time, day, date
Clasp: Folding deployant clasp
The present timepiece is a rare example of the Reference 1804 in platinum with Eastern Arabic numeral, day and date. The presence of the Arabic calendar disc and numerals gives would have given this watch an exotic vibe in the 1960s.
Introduced to the market at the Basel Fair in 1956, the Day-Date has been one of Rolex’s flagship models and enjoys continuous popularity. Symbol of luxury and prestige, the model was particularly appreciated by Middle Eastern clientele, often presented by the rulers as gifts or token of esteem.
Lot 101: Patek Philippe, A Rare Perpetual Calendar Split-Seconds Chronograph with ruby hour-markers, Ref. 5004R
Case number: 4’146’775, Movement number: 879’861
Case: 18k rose gold
Diameter: 36.5 mm.
Strap: Patek Philippe brown CROCODILE leather strap
Dial: Opaline white dial with a baguette-cut ruby set in a gold chaton at 12 o’ clock, 10 ruby stones set in square gold chatons, three subsidiary dials – one at 9 o’ clock that combines the running seconds and a 24-hour register, another at 3 o’ clock combing the minutes and leap year indication, and the 6 o’ clock combing the date ring and moon-phase indication
Movement: Cal. CHR 27-70 Q, manual
Functions: Time, perpetual calendar, split-seconds chronograph, moon-phase, leap year indicator, 24 hours (AM/PM) indicator
Clasp: Patek Philippe 18k rose gold deployant clasp
With: Patek Philippe Extract from the Archive confirming 2001 as year of manufacture and 8 October, 2001, as date of sale
Lot 126: Gérald Genta, Unique Pink Gold Grand Sonnerie, No. 1 Ref. G0026.6
Case number: 69’800, Movement stamped No. 1
Case: 18k pink gold, octagonal stepped case,
Diameter: 40 mm.
Strap: Maroon CROCODILE leather strap
Dial: Mother-of-pearl dial with applied Arabic and luminous dot numerals, luminous hands, inner concentric retrograde date sector, five subsidiary dials indicating the power reserve for the striking and going-train, seconds, indication for Grande or Petite Sonnerie and Silence or Chime, windows for day, month and leap year indication.
Movement: Cal. 31000, self-winding, engraved and gilded with three-arm polished steel tourbillon carriage with Geneva Hallmark
Function: Time, minute repeater, perpetual calendar with retrograde date, power reserve indicator for the going train and striking mechanism, one-minute tourbillon
Buckle: Steel tang buckle
With: Gérald Genta Certificate of Origin, a humidity regulator, a polished wooden presentation box, and outer packaging
Lot 127: Gérald Genta, A Unique Yellow Gold Grand Sonnerie, No. 3, Ref. G0025.7