Christie’s Hong Kong Watches Spring Auctions 24 May 2022 – Results

On 24 May, Christie’s Watches held two live auctions, including the white-glove sale of “The Champion Collection Part III: The Artistry of Complications”, and “Important Watches and The Rise of The Independent Watchmakers, Featuring The Kairos Collection Part II”, realising a historic sale total of HK$299,004,780/ US$38,269,921 and 139% hammer above low estimate. The sales saw strong global participation from 20 countries across 4 continents.

21 world auction records for references across both sales including Patek Philippe References: 5002R, 605HU, 5976 ⁄ 1G, 5016P-018, 5275P, and exceptionally rare models of F.P. Journe, A. Lange & Söhne, and Cartier. Top lot of each sale set world auction record for the reference.

 Patek Philippe Ref. 5002 (Lot 2273)
Patek Philippe Ref. 5002

The Champion Collection Part III: The Artistry of Complications, Top Achiever: Patek Philippe. A magnificent, extremely rare and highly complicated 18k pink gold double-dial wristwatch with twelve complications including “cathedral” minute repeating, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with retrograde date, moon age and angular motion, sidereal time and sky chart sky moon tourbillon model, Ref. 5002R, circa 2010. Lot 2273. Price realised: HK$24,450,000/ US$3,129,380. World auction record for the reference.

Patek Philippe Ref. 605HU
Patek Philippe Ref. 605HU

Important Watches and The Rise of The Independent Watchmakers, Featuring The Kairos Collection Part II, Top Achiever: Patek Philippe. A magnificent and extremely rare 18k gold world time pocket watch with world map cloisonné enamel dial, Ref. 605HU, manufactured in 1948. Lot 2443, Price realised: HK$16,050,000/ US$2,054,256. World auction record for the reference.

Sale Highlights of “The Champion Collection Part III: The Artistry of Complications”:

All lots in this sale found buyers, with almost 1/3 of lots sold above high estimates. 12 world auction records for the references were set in the sale, including Patek Philippe Ref. 5002R, 5016P-018, 5275P, 5074J, 5271 ⁄ 11P-001, 5971P, 5020J-016, 5071G, 5059G-018, 5976 ⁄ 1G, 5167 ⁄ 300G-010 and 5167A-010.

Patek Philippe horological treasures sparked fierce competition, with a wide variety of lots sold multiple times above estimates, including:

Patek Philippe horological treasures

Patek Philippe horological treasures

Limited edition and rare timepieces by other celebrated brands including Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet also achieved outstanding prices:

Limited edition and rare timepieces

Sale Highlights of “Important Watches and The Rise of The Independent Watchmakers, Featuring The Kairos Collection Part II”:

42% of lots sold above high estimates, with 9 world auction records for the references established, including Patek Philippe Ref. 605HU, 1415; F.P. Journe NO. 01⁄10-T10, Sonnerie Souveraine Model; A. Lange & Söhne Ref. 405.836, 310.836, 320.836; Cartier – a platinum and diamond-set limited edition Crash Model, and a rare 18K white gold and diamond-set limited edition Crash Model made for the re-opening of the Paris boutique.

In addition to the top lot of this sale, Lot 2443 – Patek Philippe 605 Heures Universelles, other top-performing extraordinary timepieces include:

Patek Philippe 605 Heures Universelles

Demand for F.P. Journe wristwatches continue to soar, highlighted by:

F.P. Journe wristwatches

All Patek Philippe contemporary masterpieces from The Kairos Collection Part II found buyers, including the following highlights:

The Kairos Collection Part II

 

Christie’s Geneva Rare Watches Auction 09 May 2022 – Results

Christie’s Geneva Rare Watches Auction on 9th May this year achieved a total of CHF 23,840,700 / US$ 24,076,357 / HK$ 188,172,624. It attracted very strong global participation with registrants from 46 countries across 6 continents. Surprisingly, 51% of the new registrants were millennials.

16 world records were broken, with Daytonas remaining the ‘Queens’ of the game. A particular note was the success of the Rolex Daytona Trilogy. The top achiever among them was the Rolex Daytona Ref 6269 ‘Jack of Diamonds’, which achieved a whopping 1.614 million Swiss francs.

Rolex Daytona Ref 6269 'Jack of Diamonds'
Lot 38: Rolex Daytona Ref 6269 ‘Jack of Diamonds’

Cartier also showed a very strong desirability, with iconic models like the Crash reaching 819’000 CHF.

Top 15 Lots

(1) Lot 38: Rolex Daytona Ref 6269 ‘Jack of Diamonds’

  • Estimate: CHF 1,100,000
  • Achieved: CHF 1.614 million

(2) Lot 129: Rolex Paul Newman Tropical Lemon Daytona Ref. 6264

  • Estimate: CHF 900,000
  • Achieved: CHF 1.254 million

(3) Lot 128: Rolex Daytona ref. 6241 ‘Champagne Paul Newman dial’

  • Estimate: CHF 700,000
  • Achieved: CHF 1,071,000

(4) Lot 66: Patek Philippe “Cathedral” Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5074R-001, Retailed by Tiffany & Co. Property from the Kairos Collection

  • Estimate: CHF 330,000
  • Achieved: CHF 957,600

(5) Lot 133: Cartier London ‘Crash’ 1990

  • Estimate: CHF 180,000
  • Achieved: CHF 819,000

(6) Lot 94: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Advanced Research Ref. 5650G-001

  • Estimate: CHF 150’000
  • Achieved: CHF 756,000

(7) Lot 110: Patek Philippe Nautilus Platinum Watch with Baguette Diamond-set Bezel and Dial Ref. 5711

  • Estimate: CHF 500,000
  • Achieved: CHF 630,000

(8) Lot 24: Rolex Oyster Cosmograph Ref. 6263 Tropical ‘Paul Newman Panda Dial’

  • Estimate: 400,000
  • Achieved: CHF 579,600

(9) Lot 65: Patek Philippe Limited Edition 18K Pink Gold Split-Seconds Chronograph with Black Dial, Ref. 5959R-001, Retailed by Tiffany & Co.

  • Estimate: CHF 140,000 – CHF 230,000
  • Achieved: CHF 453,600

(10) Lot 151: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin with Platinum Case and Smoked Green Sunburst Dial, Ref. 15202PT

  • Estimate: CHF 300,000 – CHF 500,000
  • Achieved: CHF 441,000

(11) Lot 152: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak White Ceramic Perpetual Calendar with Blue dial, Ref. 26579CB

  • Estimate: CHF 250,000 – CHF 450,000
  • Achieved: CHF 403,200

(12) Lot 157: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with Stainless Steel Case and Salmon Color Dial, Ref. 25654ST

  • Estimate: CHF 150,000 – CHF 250,000
  • Achieved: CHF 340,200

(13) Lot 88: Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases and 24 Hour Indication, Platinum Case and Black Dial, Ref. 5970P-001

  • Estimate: CHF 140,000 – CHF 230,000
  • Achieved: CHF 327,600

(14) Lot 149: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Model with 18K White Gold Case and Tropical Diamond set Dial, Ref. 5402BC, Circa 1977

  • Estimate: CHF 200,000 – CHF 400,000
  • Achieved: CHF 327,600

(15) Lot 109: Patek Philippe Nautilus, 42mm Stainless Steel Automatic Watch with Date, Moon-Phase and Power Reserve Indications, Ref. 5712/1A-001, Retailed By Tiffany & Co.

  • Estimate: CHF 120,000 – CHF 250,000
  • Achieved: CHF 277,200

Christie’s Watches Online: The Geneva Edit, 3 – 17 May 2022 – Highlights

Christie’s Watches Geneva presents Watches Online: The Geneva Edit, a curated selection of eye-catching timepieces, including the most coveted modern icons.

In pole position for this Online Sale, which will take place from 3 to 17 May, is a stunning Richard Mille RM 11-03 Automatic Flyback Chronograph in titanium. Considered to be a must-have in collections of contemporary modern sports timepieces, this Richard Mille reference with its yellow rubber bracelet will not fail to seduce bidders.

This year, Christie’s Geneva is also celebrating the 50th Anniversary of Audemars Piguet’s iconic Royal Oak design with a stunning curation of these legends, among which features No. A 1690 of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘A-series’ with tropical dial Ref. 5402ST.

During the auction, a number of Patek Philippe ‘Nautilus’ watches will be offered, including Ref. 5711/1R-001 Brown Dragon, Ref. 5712/1A and Ref. 5980/1R Chronograph.

Another highlight of this auction is a Rolex ‘Day-Date’ Ref. 1807 specially made for Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said of Oman, with a particularly attractive case and bracelet finish, and the striking red signature.

Top Lots

Richard Mille RM11-03 Automatic Flyback Chronograph in Titanium

Replacing the RM 11, which was launched in 2007, this RM 11-03 Automatic Chronograph with flyback function, from circa 2019, is highly characteristic of the Maison’s horological DNA.

Inspired by the world of motor racing, the Richard Mille RM 11-03, with its tonneau-shaped titanium case, borrows several codes that make it one of the sportiest models in the catalogue.

Richard Mille RM11-03 Automatic Flyback Chronograph in Titanium

A transparent sapphire crystal case back which allows the wearer to view the movement within the watch: The RMAC3 Calibre with automatic winding movement, offers analogue time function, flyback chronograph, 60-minute countdown timer and oversized date display. It has a skeletonised dial with raised yellow-dotted hour markers and Arabic numerals.

A tachymeter scale circles the dial near the bezel in a green font and a small seconds sub-dial, there is a date aperture between the 4 and 5 o’clock position, and the current year aperture under the 12 o’clock position. Its two mainspring barrels are mounted side-by-side to ensure stable coupling and provide up to 55 hours of power reserve.

Estimate: CHF260,000-400,000

Patek Philippe pink gold ‘Nautilus’ Ref. 5980/1R Chronograph, circa 2015

Making its debut in 2006, the Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5980 was introduced on the occasion of the Basel Fair during the 30th anniversary of the iconic reference 3700/1 designed by Gérald Genta. As a vital complication of a sports watch, it is equipped with a chronograph function and the renowned “bull’s eye” subsidiary dial.

Patek Philippe pink gold 'Nautilus' Ref. 59801R Chronograph, circa 2015

First seen on reference 5960, this design has captivated the heart of collectors by showcasing the hours in the inner part of the dial and minutes on the outer ring.
Reference 5980 is fitted with Patek Philippe’s entirely in-house made chronograph calibre 28-520 C.

The calibre 28-520 C was originally created for the reference 5960, Patek Philippe’s first self-winding chronograph with annual calendar, it was later adjusted for reference 5980 without the date display.

Estimate: CHF220,000-320,000

Patek Philippe pink gold ‘Nautilus’ Ref. 5711/1R-001 Brown Dragon

The present reference 5711/1R-001 is one of the most coveted timepieces of Patek Philippe’s contemporary production.

Launched in 2006 and paying tribute to the iconic Nautilus reference 3700 designed by Gérald Genta in 1976, the reference 5711 was crafted with a three part case of slightly larger thickness, one millimetre wider than the reference 3700, to which it is practically identical on an aesthetical level, but featuring a sapphire display back revealing the caliber 324 S C. Now with a sweep centre seconds mechanism added to the date function, the model quickly focused the attention of Patek Philippe collectors, it is highly sought after and considered as a must-have within contemporary collections.

Patek Philippe pink gold 'Nautilus' Ref. 57111R-001 Brown Dragon

This Nautilus 5711/1R-001 bears the original 1976 design and features a very attractive “chocolate” colored dial.

Estimate: CHF220,000-320,000

Patek Philippe steel ‘Nautilus’ Ref. 5712/1A

The present model (from circa 2015) is the cousin of the “5711” collection, released at the same time, under reference 5712/1A, noticeable at first glance with its beautiful moon phase and power-reserve indicator on a blue dial. Equally popular, it is a very chic and sporty model, a showstopper. It has a stainless steel 40mm Nautilus case with a beautiful satin brushed bezel.

Patek Philippe steel 'Nautilus' Ref. 5712-1A

Reference 5712 perfectly symbolises the timeless Nautilus design and its masculine elegance. This very sought-after model was released in October 2006 to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus collection, and to replace reference 3712 in production from 2005 to 2006.

Consigned by a refined collector, the present timepiece is offered in very good overall condition.

Estimate: CHF100,000-200,000.

Audemars Piguet, steel ‘Royal Oak A-series’ with tropical dial, Ref. 5402ST, No. 1690

An iconic model of the Audemars Piguet Manufacture, the Royal Oak “A-series” can be considered one of the most collectible luxury sport timepieces. In fact, the Royal Oak was the first true luxury sports watch.

The present watch is part of the first 2,000 “A-series” Royal Oaks ever created, with the serial number “A 1690”, the 1,690th Royal Oak of the inaugural series. Initially, only 1,000 watches were to be made, an ambitious target for a timepiece which was at the time the most expensive steel sportswatch and did not sell very well. Eventually it became successful, they sold out and production was increased to 2,000.

Audemars Piguet, steel ‘Royal Oak A-series' with tropical dial, Ref. 5402ST

After the “A-series” sold out, they progressed on to the “B” series, “C” series, and so on. The present watch sports an original “A-series” dial, with the AP logo above the 6 o’clock index, and reads “Swiss” below.

With its attractive dial and stainless steel-case of strong proportions, the present watch is an outstanding example of the iconic design that set a milestone in watchmaking history as the initial “sport elegance” watch.

Estimate: CHF60,000-120,000.

Rolex Ref. 1807, Made for Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said of Oman

This 18k yellow gold Rolex Day-Date automatic wristwatch Ref. 1807 was made for Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said of Oman. The late Sultan Gaboos Bin Said al Said ordered several timepieces from Rolex to gift to his close associates, ministers, diplomats, and other senior officials of the Sultanate.

ROLEX, YELLOW GOLD 'DAY-DATE' MADE FOR SULTAN QABOOS BIN SAID AL SAID, REF. 1807

This Ref. 1807 example is one of them. Made in circa 1974, it is particularly attractive for its case and bracelet finish, which is reminiscent of wood bark, as well as its matt black dial, and the Sultan’s name printed in compelling red above the standard “Superlative Chronometer” certification at six o’clock.

Estimate: CHF40,000-60,000.

Auction Summary

  • Auction name: The Geneva Edit
  • Type of auction: Online sale
  • Date: 3 – 17 May 2022
  • Number of lots: 251 lots
  • Total low estimate: CHF 3-6 million
  • Browse lots: Coming soon

 

Christie’s Watches Hong Kong Auction 24 May 2022 – Highlights

Following “The Champion Collection, Part II: Sport Elegance”, held in early April, Christie’s Hong Kong announces The Champion Collection journey with Part III: The Artistry of Complications, a single owner live sale which will be held on 24 May 2022.

The auction will showcase rare treasures such as the Patek Philippe Ref. 5002 along with several references with special-coloured dials, for instance, a Ref. 5970R, Ref. 5020J, Ref. 5050J and Ref. 5059G. Other examples of Haute Horlogerie will be presented from Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Greubel Forsey and Audemars Piguet.

The same day, 24 May, Christie’s Hong Kong will be holding a second live sale, The Important Watches Sale, which will feature selected pieces from The Kairos Collection, the finest collection of Patek Philippe contemporary timepieces ever to appear at auction.

The selection presented under the Important Watches comprises 30 lots, including the Grandes Complications Ref. 5951P-012 and Ref. 5078R-001.

Among the other most extraordinary timepieces to be presented during this sale: a Patek Philippe Ref. 605HU and a Ref. 1415J, two Lange & Söhne 20th Anniversary Sets, a collection of 10 stunning timepieces by F.P. Journe, as well as limited editions by Maximilian Büsser & Friends LM.

(1) The Champion Collection Part III: The Artistry of Complications

Comprising almost 450 modern and contemporary significant and iconic timepieces by all the major watch brands, this marvellous collection was formed over nearly 20 years by a prominent private collector. The marques represented in The Champion Collection include Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Rolex, Panerai, IWC and Vacheron Constantin.

Christie’s Hong Kong, working closely with the collector, curated the vast array of exceptional timepieces into 6 thematically distinct sales over a period of 12 months. The cycle was off to a flying start last November with The Champion Collection, Part I achieving HK$121 million.

Part II: Sport Elegance opened the 2022 season in Hong Kong with a stunning collection of iconic ‘sport chic’ watches, 120 lots that realised a total of HK$26 million (EUR 3 Millions).

The upcoming Part III: The Artistry of Complications will bookend the first half of the year on 24 May 2022, with 73 lots and a total low estimate set at HK$80 million (EUR 9.5 Millions).

The epic watch sale series will continue to unfold in the second half of 2022, with The Champion Collection, Part IV: The Panerai Encyclopedia – Chapter I comprising 85 Panerai timepieces, and The Champion Collection, Part V: The Panerai Encyclopedia – Final Chapter with a further 83 highly sought-after Panerais coming to auction online.

Concluding the year will be a single owner live sale presenting the series finale, The Champion Collection, Part VI: The Finest Watchmaking, led by 83 timepieces, among which stunning Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin enamel watches.

The top of The Artistry of Complications

Lot 2273 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon

Only 7 pieces of this magnificent and highly complicated 18k pink gold double-dial wristwatch are known to exist. With two dials and twelve complications, including a cathédrale minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with retrograde date, moon age and angular motion, sidereal time and sky chart.

This exceptional rose gold reference 5002R is one of the rarest versions as a total of only 25 pieces were made – in comparison with 40 pieces each in yellow gold and platinum. To date, only five other examples of the rose gold Sky Moon Tourbillon have returned to the market. Produced between 2001 and 2012 (the rose gold version was introduced in 2002), its technical complexity and brilliance caused a sensation.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon
Lot 2273: Patek Philippe Ref. 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon

This ultra-exclusive Patek Philippe Grande Complication is presented in superlative condition with a full set of accessories and the impeccable provenance of The Champion Collection, one of the world’s greatest.

The reference 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon holds a very special place amongst Patek Philippe’s greatest horological achievements. It was the most complicated wristwatch ever made by the Maison at the time, and available only by invitation and interview to Patek Philippe’s most important clients. Naturally, as one of the world’s most respected collectors and connoisseurs, the owner of The Champion Collection was among the chosen few.

Inspired by the famous ‘Star Calibre 2000’, a double-dialled pocket watch made to commemorate the new Millennium, the Sky Moon Tourbillon has two dials. The first displays mean solar time, retrograde perpetual calendar and phases of the moon. The other side features the sky chart, a map of the night sky in the Northern Hemisphere.

Estimate: HK$10,000,000-20,000,000 – EUR 1.18 Million – CHF 1.22 Million.

Rare Patek Philippe wristwatches with special-coloured dials

Lot 2258 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5970R with black dial

The only known, possibly unique 18k pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, 24-hour and leap year indication with black dial.

Unique versions of arguably Patek Philippe’s most important and symbolic of complications, the perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch, are one of the ultimate ownership goals of collectors worldwide. The present watch is one such elevated timepiece, being the only publicly known reference 5970R-019 – rose gold with a black dial, fully confirmed by the original Certificate of Origin.

Lot 2258 - Patek Philippe Ref. 5970R with black dial
Lot 2258 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5970R with black dial

The rose gold version of the 5970 is usually fitted with a silvered dial, so that the unexpected black dial of this watch with rose gold numerals gives it a dramatic new aesthetic. Furthermore, production of the rose (and white) gold 5970s ceased in 2007 and production of the reference ceased entirely in 2010.

The present watch, sold at the Patek Philippe salon in Geneva to its current owner in 2016, almost a decade after the pink gold version was discontinued, is one of the most significant watches of the reference in private hands.

As Patek Philippe’s unique complicated watches were only ever created for the company’s best clients, the owner of The Champion Collection was favoured with special pieces of the highest exclusivity.

Estimate: HK$1,400,000-2,800,000.

Lot 2256 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5020J with brown dial

The only known and possibly unique exemplar of the 18k gold cushion-shaped perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, 24 hour, leap year indication and brown dial with Breguet numerals.

One of the stand-out Patek Philippe special-order watches that are the jewels in the crown of The Champion Collection, this probably unique reference 5020 with stunning confirmed brown dial and the great exclusivity of its own reference number (5020J-016), can be considered one of the most important examples of the already extremely rare reference 5020 cushion-shaped perpetual calendar chronograph.

Lot 2256 - Patek Philippe Ref. 5020J with brown dial
Lot 2256 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5020J with brown dial

Almost certainly made by special request as an ‘out of series’ piece with its unique brown dial, the highly individual aesthetic of the watch places it among the most desirable of Patek Philippe’s 21st century perpetual calendar chronographs.

The standard production 5020 – manual winding perpetual calendar with chronograph – was introduced in 1994 and discontinued in 2002. The case of the present watch dates from 1994 and its movement, calibre 27 70 Q dates from 2010.

Therefore, the case is from the first year of production, but the movement was made almost 8 years after production of the 5020 ended. Such ‘out of series’ watches were created using pristine old stock cases with movements that are unrelated in date. They were usually made on the specific instructions of Mr. Stern for very special clients, such as the owner of The Champion Collection.

The probably unique brown dial and the fact that this watch was provided with a specific individual reference number confirm its legitimacy as a fully formed model in its own right and as such, an extreme rarity and prize catch for the Patek Philippe collector. Reference 5020 was available in yellow, pink, and white gold, as well as platinum. It is believed that only 750 examples of this reference were ever made in total.

Estimate: HK$1,400,000-2,800,000.

Lot 2247 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5050J with slate grey dial

An extremely rare 18k gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date, leap year indication, moon phases and slate grey dial with Breguet numerals.

With highly appealing and very unusual, grey-coloured dial, this yellow gold reference 5050J-023 is one of the ultra-exclusive ‘London Edition’ series that were created in 2015 at the request of Philippe Stern using new old stock cases and movements.

Lot 2247 - Patek Philippe Ref. 5050J with slate grey dial
Lot 2247 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5050J with slate grey dial

It is thought that a maximum of five pieces were made with a grey dial and were only available to those collectors who were personally known to Mr. Stern. The present watch is probably the only the third example known publicly. Furthermore, it is preserved in like-new condition and is accompanied by the full set of accessories. Such ‘out of series’ late production watches are fascinating to collectors and are among the rarest pieces of the reference.

The standard production 5050 – automatic perpetual calendar with retrograde date, was introduced in 1993 and discontinued in 2002. The case of the present watch dates from 1994 and its movement, calibre 315-136 dates from 2004. Therefore, the case is from the first two years of reference 5050 production and the movement from towards the end of the 5050s successor reference 5059s production (which used the same calibre) and was discontinued in 2006.

Estimate: HK$600,000-1,200,000.

Lot 2251 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5059G with salmon dial

A possibly unique and only known 18k white gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, retrograde date, moon phases, leap year indication and rose dial.

This extraordinary salmon dial reference 5059G-018 is the first example ever to be offered at auction and can be considered one of the most important individual watches of the reference 5059.

It is exceptional not only for its incredibly rare and rich salmon-coloured dial with raised gold Roman numerals, but also as the only known example of any reference 5059 in which the movement bears Patek Philippe’s ‘PP’ certification of excellence mark on its movement instead of the traditional ‘Geneva seal’ found on all other known examples.

Lot 2251 - Patek Philippe Ref. 5059G with salmon dial
Lot 2251 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5059G with salmon dial

According to the foremost Patek Philippe scholars, the present watch is the only known example of reference 5059 with its movement bearing the Patek Philippe of ‘PP’ seal of excellence instead of the earlier ‘Geneva Seal’ stamp.

The Geneva Seal, or Poinçon de Genève, has for many decades been considered the ultimate standard in watchmaking. However, it only controlled the standard of finishing and decoration of the watch movement. Testing for precision was an optional part of achieving the Geneva Seal.

Thus in 2009, Patek Philippe decided to create their own ‘PP Seal’ standard of excellence which covered almost every aspect of the watch, up to and including, the ownership experience. In 2012, the criteria for the Geneva Seal were upgraded in response.

Introduced in 1998, it was the first serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date to be made by Patek Philippe. It was also the first model since the legendary reference 2497 and 2438-1 to have a sweep centre seconds on a perpetual calendar watch.

The model is distinctive for its officier style case with elongated lugs with screwed bars and hinged back and display cuvette. The movement is the automatic calibre 315 with 21K gold rotor, the fascinating retrograde date function is part of the perpetual calendar mechanism whereby at the end of each month the date hand instantly ‘flies’ back to 1.

Estimate: HK$600,000-1,200,000.

Marvels of Haute Horlogerie

Lot 2212 – Vacheron Constantin. An extremely rare and exceptional limited edition platinum skeletonised minute repeating wristwatch.

Lot 2212 - Vacheron Constantin limited edition platinum skeletonised minute repeating wristwatch
Lot 2212 – Vacheron Constantin limited edition platinum skeletonised minute repeating wristwatch

Limited to 15 pieces, this is No.1. Circa 2006. Estimate: HK$1,000,000-2,000,000.

Lot 2216 – A very rare and impressive Jaeger-LeCoultre platinum semi-skeletonised spherical tourbillon wristwatch with 24 hour display and power reserve, and Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 model.

Lot 2216 - Jaeger-LeCoultre platinum semi-skeletonised spherical tourbillon wristwatch
Lot 2216 – Jaeger-LeCoultre platinum semi-skeletonised spherical tourbillon wristwatch
  • Limited to 75 pieces, this example is from circa 2008.
  • Estimate: HK$800,000-1,600,000.

Lot 2218 – An impressive, highly complicated and very rare Jules Audemars Grande Complication model, Ref. 25866PT, platinum automatic minute repeating perpetual calendar split seconds chronograph wristwatch with leap year indication, number of week and moon phases.

Lot 2218 – Jules Audemars Grande Complication model, Ref. 25866PT,
Lot 2218 – Jules Audemars Grande Complication model, Ref. 25866PT
  • Circa 2004.
  • Estimate: HK$800,000-1,600,000.

Lot 2219Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 2 Model. An extremely rare and magnificent platinum limited edition asymmetrical wristwatch with differential quadruple tourbillon and power reserve.

Lot 2219 - Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 2
Lot 2219 – Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 2
  • Limited to 11 pieces, this example is No. 1/11. Circa 2010.
  • Estimate: HK$2,200,000-4,400,000.

Lot 2265 – A Patek Philippe Ref. 5004A is an extremely rare and important stainless steel perpetual calendar split seconds chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, 24 hour and leap year indication.

Lot 2265 - Patek Philippe 5004A
Lot 2265 – Patek Philippe 5004A

Possibly 60 pieces made, 9 known and fresh to the market, this example is from circa 2012. Estimate: HK$4,000,000-8,000,000.

Lot 2270 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5275P is an exceptional and very rare platinum limited edition hour striking wristwatch with jumping hour, minute and second, made for the 175th Anniversary of Patek Philippe in 2014.

Lot 2270 - Patek Philippe Ref. 5275P
Lot 2270 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5275P
  • 175 pieces were made.
  • Estimate: HK$2,400,000-4,800,000.

(2) Important Watches and the Rise of the Independent Watchmakers, Featuring The Kairos Collection Part II

Patek Philippe World Times masterpieces from the 1940s

Lot 2443 – Patek Philippe Ref. 605HU

The present yellow gold Ref. 605 HU is a superb and extremely well-preserved example of Patek Philippe’s world time watches with cloisonné enamel dial. Patek Philippe’s reference 605 HU (Heure Universelle) World Time dress watches with cloisonné enamel dial are among the most beautiful horological masterpieces of the marque’s 20th century production.

Lot 2443 - Patek Philippe Ref. 605HU
Lot 2443 – Patek Philippe Ref. 605HU

Manufactured in 1948, and sold in 1954, this magnificent exemplar of Haute Horlogerie, one of the earliest to avail itself of Louis Cottier’s world time system, and created under Cottier’s direct supervision, is presented for the first time at auction.

Among the 95 pieces produced by Louis Cottier and Patek Philippe from 1939 to 1964, only 3 examples in yellow gold, with an enamel map depicting the entire globe, are known to have survived.

One is displayed at the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, one in a private collection and this one, which is being presented at auction for the first time at Christie’s in Hong Kong.

Estimate: HK$5,000,000-10,000,000.

Lot 2442 – Patek Philippe Ref. 1415J

This exceptional and very rare 18k gold world time wristwatch Ref. 1415J, manufactured in 1949, is for the first time at auction.

Surviving for over 70 years in astoundingly crisp and original condition, it gives collectors and those who search for objects of unsurpassed quality, the opportunity to possess a previously unknown reference 1415J, one of Patek Philippe’s most sought after ‘golden age’ classic references. Carefully preserved over the years as part of a private collection, its exclusivity and desirability is greatly enhanced by its excellent original condition.

Lot 2442 - Patek Philippe Ref. 1415J
Lot 2442 – Patek Philippe Ref. 1415J

A further layer of rarity is bestowed upon the present watch as one of the small number known publicly with both the post-1948 ‘short’ Patek Philippe signature and the names of the world cities in English. From a total of 115 reference 1415 made, 82 were in a yellow gold case and around 65 of those have a silvered dial.

Of those watches, fewer than twenty bear a fully applied hour marker dial with ‘short’ signature and “Lys” shape hands. Furthermore, less than half-a-dozen have been identified in such incredible original condition.

Estimate: HK$1,200,000-2,400,000.

The Lange & Söhne 20th Anniversary Sets

Lots 2351, 2352 – Lange & Söhne. Lange 1 20th Anniversary Set

Fresh to the market, this superb white gold pair of ‘His & Hers’ Lange 1 20th Anniversary wristwatches are the first set in white gold to be presented at auction.

This special pairing of the legendary ‘Lange 1’ and ‘Little Lange 1’ was made to celebrate ‘togetherness’ for the 20th Anniversary of the now iconic Lange 1 model that was launched in 1994 and re-established the reputation of the historic brand for the modern era.

Lot 2351, 2352 - Lange & Söhne. The Hourglass 20th Anniversary Set
Lot 2351, 2352 – Lange & Söhne. The Hourglass 20th Anniversary Set

Debuted at the Hong Kong Watches & Wonders fair in 2014, A. Lange & Söhne introduced five different pairings of the Lange 1 20th Anniversary sets, a limited edition of 20 pieces being made of each type. These highly exclusive sets of two watches comprise a Lange 1 (38.5 mm.) and a Little Lange 1 (36.1 mm).

  • Lot 2351- Ref.811.063 The Little Lange 1: 18k white gold and diamond-set limited edition wristwatch with date and power reserve. Estimate: HK$400,000-800,000.
  • Lot 2352- Ref.101.063 The Lange 1: 18k white gold limited edition wristwatch with date and power reserve. Estimate: HK$400,000-800,000.

Lots 2347, 2348, 2349 – Lange & Söhne. The Hourglass 20th Anniversary Set

Never before seen at auction, this exceptional and important set of three baguette diamond-set platinum Lange & Söhne wristwatches were produced exclusively as a special edition for the 20th Anniversary of the Japan boutiques of the highly prestigious retailer ‘Hourglass’ which was founded in 1996.

Lots 2347, 2348, 2349 - Lange & Söhne. The Hourglass 20th Anniversary Set
Lots 2347, 2348, 2349 – Lange & Söhne. The Hourglass 20th Anniversary Set

Only available to buy in the full set of three and offered to select VIP clients of Hourglass, each watch is a very special example of one of Lange & Söhne’s iconic and most revered models. Further underlining the importance of the edition, each model made for the set was given its own new reference number to distinguish it as a special series, standing apart from regular production watches.

  • Lot 2347-Ref. 405.836 Datograph Up/Down – platinum, set with 36 Top Wesselton, IF-VVS quality baguette cut diamonds on the bezel weighing a total of 4.5 carats. Movement Lange calibre 951.6. Estimate: HK$1,600,000-3,200,000.
  • Lot 2348-Ref. 310.836 Langematik Perpetual – platinum, set with 36 Top Wesselton, IF-VVS quality baguette cut diamonds on the bezel weighing a total of 3.1 carats. Movement Lange calibre 922.1. Estimate: HK$1,200,000-2,400,000.
  • Lot 2349-Ref. 320.836 Lange 1 Daymatic – platinum, set with 36 Top Wesselton, IF-VVS quality baguette cut diamonds on the bezel weighing a total of 2.5 carats. Movement Lange calibre 021.1. Estimate: HK$1,200,000-2,400,000.

F.P. Journe

Lot 2382 – F.P. Journe T10 Anniversary Tourbillon model No. 01/10-T10

This extremely rare platinum limited edition Tourbillon wristwatch was created to celebrate the 10th Anniversary of the first F.P. Journe boutique in Tokyo.

Of all F.P. Journe rarities, the T-10 Anniversary Tourbillon is probably the ultimate, so rare that it has gained an almost mythical quality. Christie’s is therefore extremely excited to be able to offer for the first time at auction an example of the platinum 10 Year Anniversary Tourbillon of which only 10 pieces exist in the world.

Lot 2382 - F.P. Journe T10 Anniversary Tourbillon model No. 01/10-T10
Lot 2382 – F.P. Journe T10 Anniversary Tourbillon model No. 01/10-T10

The present watch offers collectors of F.P. Journe and those who pursue the rarest statement timepieces an exceptional and unheard-of opportunity to acquire a T-10 Tourbillon at auction.

Estimate: HK$6,500,000-12,500,000.

Lot 2383 – F.P. Journe Sonnerie Souveraine

This is an important and very rare stainless steel Grand Sonnerie, Petite Sonnerie and Minute Repeating wristwatch with power reserve and function selector.

F.P. Journe’s steel cased minute repeater with a Grande and Petite Sonnerie is a masterpiece that very few watchmakers in the world are capable of producing. In recognition of F.P. Journe’s incredible achievement, the Sonnerie Souveraine won the tremendous accolade of First Prize in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2006.

Lot 2383 - F.P. Journe Sonnerie Souveraine
Lot 2383 – F.P. Journe Sonnerie Souveraine

Only four pieces of this extremely exclusive model were made each year; consequently, it is very rarely offered at international auction.

Presented in superb and pristine condition, the present watch, ‘baptised’ with the original owner’s name, is accompanied by the original steel full bracelet, Certificate and full set of original accessories.

Estimate: HK$6,500,000-12,500,000.

Lot 2380 – F.P. Journe Resonance Ruthenium model

This rare platinum limited edition Dual Time chronometer wristwatch features a Resonance-controlled Twin Independent Gear-Train movement and power reserve display.

This limited edition Ruthenium Chronomètre à Résonance is number 93 of only 99 pieces made between 2001 and 2003. This special series in platinum was produced at the end of the period when F.P. Journe was using brass movements. From 2004 onwards, Journe’s movements have famously been made from 18K gold.

Lot 2380 - F.P. Journe Resonance Ruthenium model
Lot 2380 – F.P. Journe Resonance Ruthenium model

With the tremendous and continually growing interest in François-Paul Journe’s work, collectors have focused their attention on the early production and pre-production watches with brass movements. Consequently these watches which are an important part of F.P. Journe history have become extremely sought after and very difficult to obtain.

The Chronomètre à Résonance model, so closely associated with François-Paul Journe, is particularly desirable. Furthermore, the brass movements of this edition are coated with ruthenium as are the solid 18K gold dials which are regarded as perhaps the most beautiful of all early Journe dials.

Estimate: HK$2,400,000-4,000,000.

Maximilian Büsser & Friends

Lot 2370 – Maximilian Büsser & Friends Legacy Machine Perpetual model

This is a rare 18k pink gold limited edition semi-skeletonised perpetual calendar wristwatch with leap year indication.

The stunning Legacy Machine Perpetual is a horological masterpiece that in true MB&F style presents an entirely new concept for one of the most traditional watch complications, the perpetual calendar.

A collaboration between MB&F and independent watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, together they rethought the perpetual calendar complication from the ground up in order to develop a system that is both more user friendly and more reliable in operation. The result is not only highly impressive in appearance, but it also seamlessly integrates the new perpetual calendar system into MB&F’s Legacy Machine family as a creation of breathtaking three-dimensional beauty.

Lot 2370 – Maximilian Büsser & Friends Legacy Machine Perpetual model
Lot 2370 – Maximilian Büsser & Friends Legacy Machine Perpetual model

Furthermore, because this new system is constructed in an entirely different way to a conventional perpetual calendar mechanism, it provided the opportunity for MB&F to construct a movement with an aesthetic that was not technically possible before.

The present 18K red gold version is number 14 of a limited edition of 25 pieces, it is offered in extremely fine condition together with the full set of accessories.

Estimate: HK$800,000-1,600,000.

Lot 2369 – Maximilian Büsser & Friends Legacy Machine No.1, “LM1” XIA HANG

The first of a very rare 18k rose gold limited edition of 12 wristwatches with independent dual time and vertical power reserve. Illustrating MB&F’s commitment to collaborative watchmaking and the creation of watches as sculptural works of art for the wrist, the LM1 Xia Hang was conceived as a ‘Performance Art’ piece and a treat for the eyes.

This special Legacy Machine 1 was made as a limited edition in collaboration between MB&F and the talented young Chinese artist Xia Hang.

Lot 2369 – Maximilian Büsser & Friends Legacy Machine No.1, “LM1” XIA HANG
Lot 2369 – Maximilian Büsser & Friends Legacy Machine No.1, “LM1” XIA HANG

Inspired by 19th century pocket watches, Legacy Machine 1 has three distinct characteristics; a unique flying balance wheel; independent dual time zones and most intriguing of all, a vertical power reserve indicator. It is with this vertical power reserve indicator, a first for watchmaking, that Xia Hang has performed his artistic alchemy: the power reserve arm has been replaced by a miniature, highly-polished articulated creature, one of Xia Hang’s so-called ‘comma men’.

These miniature masterpieces are reductions of the artist’s full-size sculptures. When the power is low, the ‘comma man’ bends his back and slumps down. Upon winding, the little figure lifts his head and straightens his back to show that the power reserve is restored.

The dual time zones where the hours and the minutes are displayed on each of the two sub dials can be set completely independently of each other with the two crowns.

Estimate: HK$400,000-800,000.

The Kairos Collection

The Christie’s Hong Kong Important Watches Sale on 24 May will also feature selected pieces from The Kairos Collection – the finest collection of Patek Philippe contemporary timepieces ever to appear at auction.

Curated by a private collector with a discerning eye for excellence and the ability to acquire the rarest watches, The Kairos Collection is the fruit of years of dedicated focus and a passion for the most prestigious of provenances, with every single timepiece in absolutely pristine condition.

30 timepieces will be presented in Geneva on 9 May, 30 pieces in Hong Kong on 24 May, and 68 pieces for the finale in New York on 8 June.

Among the 30 pieces offered in Hong Kong, highlights include fabled Grande Complications, such as Ref. 5951P-012 and Ref. 5078R-001.

Lot 2412 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5951P-012

This is a rare platinum cushion-shaped Perpetual Calendar Split Seconds Chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, Day/Night, leap year indication and lacquered white dial with black Breguet numerals.

This Grande Complication wristwatch is the perfect representation of why Patek Philippe’s position as the world’s premier watch brand remains unassailable. A magnificent and highly exclusive tour-de-force of haute horology, it is the first example of a reference 5951P-012 ever to be offered at international auction.

Lot 2412 - Patek Philippe Ref. 5951P-012
Lot 2412 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5951P-012

This full-set example of the highly important platinum ‘Coussin Tortue’ perpetual calendar with split-seconds chronograph comes with a white lacquered dial with black Breguet numerals. This model was in production for only one year.

Estimate: HK$1,600,000-3,200,000.

Lot 2413 – Patek Philippe 5078R-001

This 18k pink gold automatic Minute Repeating wristwatch comes with an enamel dial.

One of the most elegant and pure models of Patek Philippe’s extraordinary minute repeating wristwatches, this pink gold automatic reference 5078R-001 is also one of the rarest.

Lot 2413 – Patek Philippe 5078R-001
Lot 2413 – Patek Philippe 5078R-001

The reference 5078 is so cherished by those fortunate enough to possess it that in the 14 years since launch, only 13 examples in all metals have ever returned to the market. The present watch is probably the only the second example in pink gold ever to be presented at auction.

Estimate: HK$1,450,000-3,000,000.

Auctions summary

(1) The Champion Collection, Part Iii: The Artistry of Complications

(2) Important Watches and the Rise of the Independent Watchmakers, Featuring the Kairos Collection part II

  • Live Sale
  • Various Owners
  • Date: 24 May 2022
  • Number of lots: 143 lots
  • Total low estimate: HK$93,990,000 – CHF 11.4 Millions – EUR 11.1 Millions
  • Browse lots: Coming soon

Source: Christie’s

Christie’s Geneva Rare Watches Spring ’22 – Highlights

Christie’s has announced the highlights of its Geneva Rare Watches Spring ’22 Auction, 09 May 2022. This live sale will offer an amazing selection of most sought-after timepieces (158 lots) manufactured by prestigious Maisons.

The Daytona Trilogy and other vintage Rolexes

Lot 38 – Rolex Daytona 18k gold Cosmograph Ref. 6269 ‘Jack of Diamonds’

Featuring diamond-set bezel and pavé diamond and sapphire-set dial, this Rolex Daytona 18k gold Cosmograph was made for the French market. It is one of only two examples known publicly bearing French importation marks and the Rolex France logo “Sté*R” for “Société Rolex”.

Rarely ever seen at auction, the ultra-luxurious diamond-set reference 6269, the so-called ‘Jack of Diamonds’ remains one of the most elusive models among all gold Cosmographs.

Rolex Daytona 18k gold Cosmograph Ref. 6269 ‘Jack of Diamonds’

The exterior of the case back is stamped with the French ‘owl’ importation gold marks and both the case back and bracelet clasp are stamped with the Rolex France Logo. These special marks are only found on one other publicly known reference 6269 and a handful of other highly important Rolexes of other references, including two of the equally legendary reference 6241 “John Player Specials”. Inspired by the French ‘owl’ gold mark, reference 6269s bearing this mark, including the present watch, have been given the additional nickname “Le Hibou Grand-Duc” or “Great Horned Own” among collectors.

A remarkable model within the historic context of the Cosmograph family, the diamond-set gold reference 6269 is considered to be one of the ultimate luxury vintage Rolex chronographs. It is also an immense rarity, as it was manufactured late in the production period of the manually wound Cosmograph, which was discontinued in 1987.

Rolex Daytona 18k gold Cosmograph Ref. 6269 ‘Jack of Diamonds’

In the mid-1980s it was considered extraordinary for a chronograph wristwatch to be set with diamonds but due to a select yet significant demand for such pieces, Rolex responded with the specially created reference 6269 which has its own specific design features, including a bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds and a stunning pavé-set diamond dial with sapphire hour indexes. A particularly attractive feature of the model is the 18K gold ‘riveted’ Oyster bracelet which lends a refined vintage 1960s aesthetic to this reference’s overall appearance.

Estimate: CHF1,100,000-2,000,000

Lot 129 – Rolex Paul Newman Tropical Lemon Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6264

The very rarest, most beautiful and individually significant Rolex Cosmograph Daytonas are today esteemed as important 20th century works of art.

Rolex Paul Newman Tropical Lemon Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6264

The 18K gold reference 6264 with ‘Tropical lemon Paul Newman’ dial has the remarkable distinction of having had very few owners since new. It was the property of the original owner until around 2012.

Rolex Paul Newman Tropical Lemon Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6264

Since that time, it has changed owners to end up within the collection of one of the most important European Rolex collectors. It has been carefully preserved and treasured by the present owner for the last 5 years. It is certainly one of the most important gold Paul Newman Daytona wristwatches in existence.

Estimate: CHF900,000-1,800,000

Lot 128 – Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6241 ‘Champagne Paul Newman Dial’

In the world of Rolex Daytona collecting and appreciation at the very highest level, extreme rarity is measured by small degrees. Only the scarcest references with the most stunning untouched dials and unquestioned originality make the grade for today’s highly informed and discerning international collectors. The rarity of the 18k gold reference 6241 with ‘Champagne Paul Newman’ dial is approximately on parity with the reference 6241 ‘John Player Special’.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6241 ‘Champagne Paul Newman Dial’Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6241 ‘Champagne Paul Newman Dial’

The reference 6241 was produced for around only 3 years between 1966 and 1969 and is therefore a rare reference in its own right. Available in stainless steel, 14K and 18K gold with either exotic ‘Paul Newman’ or non-exotic dials. The famed ‘John Player Special’ is the most instantly recognizable of the former category, however, what is not widely realized is that the champagne dial model with its hugely attractive gilt printing is equally as rare as the ‘John Player Special’. Indeed, 18K gold versions with ‘Champagne Paul Newman’ dial such as the present watch exist in even smaller numbers.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6241 ‘Champagne Paul Newman Dial’

This breath-taking watch has a magnificently preserved and utterly perfect dial. The champagne grené surface is flawless even under magnification, the luminous accents are superb, perfectly match the luminescence of the gold hands. The full case features well-defined proportions: indeed, it displays the all the reassuring signs of honest use over the last 54 years, the serial and reference numbers are clearly legible as are the hallmarks on the back of two lugs. The overall appeal of this superb timepiece is completed by the very rare Mark 1 bezel, highly sought-after by collectors.

Another closely related 18K gold reference 6241 with Champagne Paul Newman dial with serial number 1’757’892, only five numbers away from the present watch, was sold by Christie’s Geneva om 13 November 2013 as lot 197.

Estimate: CHF700,000-1,200,000

Lot 24 – Rolex Oyster Cosmograph Ref. 6263 Tropical ‘Paul Newman Panda Dial’

Fresh to the market and possibly unique with a tropical Mark 1.75 dial, the sheer beauty and untouched nature of this highly appealing reference 6263 is evident even at first glance.

The white background of the dial has remained very fresh and blemish-free, the luminous accents are intact and evenly aged, perfectly matching the luminescence of the hands. Furthermore, the dial displays a fascinating combination of unmistakable characteristics.

Rolex Oyster Cosmograph Ref. 6263 Tropical ‘Paul Newman Panda Dial’

Firstly, over the last 53 years, the original black colour of the outer track has transformed into a seductive deep even brown hue. The change in colour from black to deep brown is understood to be caused by the reaction of the dial paint to external elements such as humidity or exposure to light.

As a result of this natural process, every ‘tropical’ dial is unique. The tropicalization of the outer ring of this watch bestows a visually striking contrast between the black of the bezel and subsidiary dials and the white of the main part of the dial.

Rolex Oyster Cosmograph Ref. 6263 Tropical ‘Paul Newman Panda Dial’

This three-colour aesthetic immediately alerts the observer to the fact that this 6263 is something out of the ordinary. Another interesting aspect is that the subsidiary dials are considered “Big Eyes” being wider than on Mark II Paul Newman Panda dials, almost touching the outer track of the of the dial. The present watch is elevated to an even higher level due to its very rare Mark 1.75 dial of which less than 10 examples have been recorded.

Considered the ultimate vintage Cosmograph model, few watches elicit as much excitement from collectors today as a completely fresh to the market reference 6263 Paul Newman Panda, especially with a ‘tropical’ colour-change dial. The case with screw down chronograph pushers and black bezel is combined with what is generally agreed to be among the most beautiful dials ever created for a wristwatch. It is unquestionably one of the ultimate goals for the Rolex collector.

Estimate: CHF400,000-600,000

Lot 127 – Rolex Ref. 6062 ‘Stelline’, 18K Gold Automatic Triple Calendar Wristwatch with Moon Phases and Star Dial

This extremely rare reference 6062 ‘Stelline’ is a superb discovery to the world of Rolex collectors. According to experts, it has never been offered at auction before. Of the approximately 670 reference 6062 produced in yellow gold, less than 150 examples have ever appeared on the open market. Of these, few are fitted with the iconic luminous version of the ‘Star Dial’.

Rolex Ref. 6062 ‘Stelline’, 18K Gold Automatic Triple Calendar Wristwatch with Moon Phases and Star Dial

The dial is in superbly original condition, retaining its subtle grainé finish and original printing throughout. Furthermore, the apertures for the month and weekday indications are sharp and angular, a feature which is so easily lost when such a dial is refinished. The case is very attractive with lines well preserved, both on the upper side and also to the back which retains its original satin finish and clear hallmark. Similarly preserved between the lugs, the reference number is still fully legible.

Rolex Ref. 6062 ‘Stelline’, 18K Gold Automatic Triple Calendar Wristwatch with Moon Phases and Star Dial

This example of this trophy model, fresh to the market, with the rare luminous ‘star’ dial and in such untouched and original condition after 70 years presents an opportunity not to be missed.

Estimate: CHF100,000-200,000

The Kairos Collection Part I

The Christie’s Geneva Rare Watches sale on 9 May 2022 will also feature the ‘Kairos Collection’ – the finest collection of Patek Philippe contemporary timepieces ever to appear at auction.

Curated by a private distinguished collector with a discerning eye for excellence and the ability to acquire the rarest watches, The Kairos Collection is the fruit of years of dedicated focus and a passion for the most prestigious of provenances, with every single timepiece in absolutely pristine condition.

30 pieces will be presented in Geneva as Part I, followed by Hong Kong as Part II and New York as Part III. Among these 30 pieces, highlights including fabled grand complications such as a Ref. 5959R-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph in rose gold with black dial and a Ref. 5074R-001 Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar in the same livery. Here the details on selected highlights:

Lot 65 – Patek Philippe Pink Gold Split-Seconds Chronograph Limited Edition Ref. 5959R-001, Retailed by Tiffany & Co

The reference 5959R is so rare and exclusive that few people have ever seen one or are even aware of its existence. This pink gold split-seconds chronograph with black dial and Breguet numerals was only made for one year between 2016 and 2017 in a special limited series of 15 examples.

Patek Philippe Pink Gold Split-Seconds Chronograph Limited Edition Ref. 5959R-001, Retailed by Tiffany & Co

The present watch was purchased from Tiffany & Co., New York. According to experts, it is only the second example ever to be offered at international auction. Reference 5959 is one the modern Patek Philippe models which best preserves the DNA and heritage of the revered Maison Genevoise. In fact, a practically unique case in the history of Patek Philippe, it is a virtually exact replica of a vintage model, specifically the first split second chronograph wristwatch ever produced by the company (movement no. 124’824) in 1923.

Patek Philippe Pink Gold Split-Seconds Chronograph Limited Edition Ref. 5959R-001, Retailed by Tiffany & Co

The only differences are the modern signature, the co-axial button in the crown and the snap on back instead of hinged. This modern tribute to Patek Philippe heritage is a masterpiece of design and is the archetypical officier-style watch. The present version with black dial and Breguet numerals was made only in rose gold in a limited edition of 15 pieces in 2016 before being discontinued in 2017.

One of the scarcest modern models by Patek Philippe, in order to be granted the chance to purchase an example by the company, collectors had to make an application and pass an extremely strict selection process based on their horological interests, present collection, and collecting criteria.

Estimate: CHF140,000-230,000

Lot 66 – Patek Philippe Cathedral Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5074R-001, Retailed by Tiffany & Co

Beyond its exceptional appeal as a perpetual calendar cathedral repeater, reference 5074 can be considered one of the most striking stylistic exercises by Patek Philippe. It seamlessly blends the design heritage of vintage horology with more modern solutions. The final result is nothing short of breath-taking. Purchased by the present owner at the prestigious Tiffany & Co. salon in New York, the present watch is absolutely unspoiled in all of its parts, allowing the case design and enthralling black and gold dial to be fully appreciated in all their glory.

Patek Philippe Cathedral Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5074R-001, Retailed by Tiffany & Co

The reference 5074 is one of the most technologically complex, aesthetically appealing and hard-to-find modern Patek Philippe references. It was originally launched in yellow gold from 2001 to 2006. In 2005, the watch was offered for the first time in pink gold and available with a silvered dial or the rare black dial, as seen on the present watch.

Believed to have been made in less than 50 pieces in pink gold, the black dial variant is thought to be the rarest of the two dial colour options. Although now unavailable from Patek Philippe, the last known retail price for the pink gold version is 542,000 Swiss Francs in 2014.

Patek Philippe Cathedral Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5074R-001, Retailed by Tiffany & Co

The return to market ratio for the reference 5074 is extremely small, indicating how deeply collectors are attached to this model. So far, only 5 examples in pink gold came back to the secondary market.

Estimate: CHF330,000-510,000

Vintage wonders by Patek Philippe

Lot 119 – Patek Philippe reference 3448

This real treasure of reference 3448 is probably one of only three examples known publicly that are double signed for Patek Philippe’s distinguished Italian retailer, Hausmann & Co. in Rome. Official representative of all the greatest watch manufacturers in the world, the company was founded in Rome in 1794 by Ernst Hausmann and Hermann Frielingsdorf.

In the rarefied world of complicated vintage Patek Philippe masterpieces, the reference 3448 is one of the most sought after of all. Its minimal good looks and large size is perfectly suited for today’s most discerning collectors. Only 586 examples of the 3448 were ever made, of these, only three, including this watch, are known to have been double-signed for the highly prestigious Rome retailer Hausmann & Co.

Patek Philippe reference 3448

The present watch is thus one of the most individual and exclusive specimens of the great classic reference 3448 to be offered at auction.

Entirely fresh to the market and still retaining a Patek Philippe service sticker on the back, it is a wonderfully honest example featuring an incredibly attractive and well preserved rich ‘velvety’ silvered dial with hard enamelled signature and date numerals that are beautifully raised, the ‘pearl’ minute divisions perfectly complementing the gold baton hour markers.

Patek Philippe reference 3448

The silky finish is a feature of the very best dials made by Stern Frères, called ‘satiné opalin’. Exactly correct for the year 1970, the present dial would be one of the last of the engraved hard enamelled dials to be used on the reference. The dials changed to printed signature and calendar numerals from 1971.

Estimate: CHF150,000-250,000

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

The Christie’s Geneva Rare Watches sale on 9 May 2022 will be a celebration of the 50th Anniversary of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak.

To mark the occasion, Christie’s Geneva will present a curation of these legends in their own time, among which the highly coveted and stunning platinum ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin Ref. 15202PT, presented for the first time at auction, the stainless-steel A-Series No.1’741 as well as the ‘Golden’ Tropical Mark 1 diamond index dial Ref. 5402BC, as detailed below.

Lot 151 – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin Ref. 15202PT

The highly coveted and stunning platinum Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin with smoked green sunburst dial (reference 15202PT) is appearing for the first time at auction.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin Ref. 15202PT

Since the Royal Oak’s launch in 1972, few models of the range have been made in platinum. In 2021, Audemars Piguet introduced this very special version in solid platinum, reference 15202PT – the first Platinum Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ with a green sunburst dial. Reserved for AP Houses only, it is made in such extremely small numbers and so ultra-exclusive that demand has, unsurprisingly, vastly exceeded supply.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin Ref. 15202PT

The Reference 15202 is one of the most popular because it is the closest modern descendant of the original Royal Oak. In an interesting twist for the 15202PT, Audemars Piguet designed the dial without the classic ‘petite tapisserie’ textured pattern but instead with a smooth surface. The green colour is named ‘smoked green’ by Audemars Piguet and is on a sunray pattern base which gives a shimmering graduated tonal effect as light plays across the surface.

Estimate: CHF300,000-500,000.

Lot 147 – Audemars Piguet Stainless Steel Royal Oak A-Series No.1’741

This is one of the most iconic sport watches ever created, bestowed with a well-preserved dial as well as a stainless-steel case of strong proportions.

An iconic model of the Audemars Piguet Manufacture, the Royal Oak “A-series” can be considered as part of the most collectible luxury sport timepieces. Designed by the celebrated Gérald Genta, and later qualified the masterpiece of his career, the Royal Oak secured a discerning and informed audience and became throughout the years the emblem of the Manufacture.

Audemars Piguet Stainless Steel Royal Oak A-Series No.1’741

The present watch is part of the first 2000 “A-series” Royal Oaks ever created, with the serial number “A 1741”, the 1’741th piece to be made. It has an original “A-series” dial, with the AP logo above the 6 o’clock index, and reads “Swiss” below 6 o’clock.

Audemars Piguet Stainless Steel Royal Oak A-Series No.1’741

This first series was numbered from A 0001 to A 2000. Indeed, after having sold out the first 1’000 pieces, the eventual success of this model was such that Audemars Piguet took the decision to increase the production to 2’000 pieces. After the “A-series” sold out, they progressed on to the “B” series, “C” series, and so on.

Estimate: CHF70,000-140,000.

Lot 149 – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Golden’ Tropical Mark 1 diamond index dial Ref. 5402BC

Fresh to the market, it is hard to imagine a Royal Oak of more conspicuous rarity. To the best of our knowledge, the present watch is the only example of a white gold reference 5402 with diamond dial that is so fully and evenly tropicalized.

The dial is quite sensational and of unparalleled beauty, having tropicalized from the original black to a shimmering golden bronze colour fading to leave an even darker outer edge. Adding a further degree of desirability, the dial type is the seldom- seen ‘Mark 1’ that was in use before 1980 on which the round diamonds are set in circular white gold settings. From around 1980 onwards, the round diamonds are set in square-shaped settings.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Golden’ Tropical Mark 1 diamond index dial Ref. 5402BC

Originally designed and produced only in steel, in 1977 Audemars Piguet decided to launch a limited number of their then already landmark Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ ref. 5402 in white gold. Christened with the reference 5402BC, it rarely appears at auction. This reference 5402BC with tropicalized dial is no. 29 of only 150 believed to have been manufactured, rendering it one of the rarest variants of the Royal Oak model in its own right.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Golden’ Tropical Mark 1 diamond index dial Ref. 5402BC

Crafted from solid 18K gold, its weight is impressive when compared to the regular Royal Oak production stainless steel versions. Measuring 39 mm. in diameter, the model carries the sought-after mini ‘tapisserie’ patterned dial, a texture found on all early Royal Oak dials.

Collectors have long been discovering and researching the rarities from the last 50 years of production of the Royal Oak. Scarce early examples and those with tropical dials have captured the serious attention of watch enthusiasts. This watch presents a one-off opportunity for Royal Oak collectors to obtain one of the most alluring and distinctly unique examples of this much coveted white gold Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ with original diamond-set dial.

Estimate: CHF200,000-400,000

Other Highlights

Lot 122 – Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 1526 – Eric Clapton CBE

During the 1990s and early 2000s, Eric Clapton CBE, the English rock and blues guitarist, singer, songwriter and one of the most important and influential guitarists of all time, assembled one of the most impressive and important collections of wristwatches anywhere in the world. The collection included many of the great classic models of Patek Philippe and some unique examples among them.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 1526 – Eric Clapton CBE

The present reference 1526 perpetual calendar is one such legendary timepiece. Not seen in public for almost 20 years, the present Patek Philippe was bought at the auction of Eric Clapton’s important watches at Christie’s New York and is being today by a private European collector.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 1526 – Eric Clapton CBE

Estimate: CHF80,000-120,000

Lot 133 – Cartier London ‘Crash’ 1990

Consigned by a private owner, Christie’s is delighted to be able to offer this wonderful example of what is regarded as the most attractive and sought-after versions of this undoubted design icon.

Cartier London ‘Crash’ 1990

The present watch, with its large cursive script signature ‘Cartier London’ on the untouched painted dial, crisp heavy gold case and matching gold ‘Crash’ folding clasp both with full Cartier London signature and hallmarks for 1990, is a sublime specimen that could hardly be improved upon.

Cartier London ‘Crash’ 1990

Cartier’s ‘Crash’ watch is overwhelmingly an object of desire, once seen it can never be forgotten. The ‘Crash’ watch instils in its beholder an almost magnetic fascination that is borne from all truly great design and craftsmanship, its fluid free-form shape and specially designed dial is unique among wristwatches. The ‘Crash’ watch is an exemplar of what can only be described as “the genius of Cartier”.

Estimate: CHF180,000-280,000

Lot 40 – The Breguet No.2424

This is a superb and stunning example of one of Breguet’s incredibly rare steel-cased triple calendar chronograph wristwatches. To date, probably less than 10 examples are known publicly. Consigned by its private owner, it is one of the most attractive and original of the known examples.

Breguet No.2424

The dial, with blue tachymeter scale and applied gold indexes is extremely beautiful, gently mellowing over the years to an even light champagne colour. The layout of the dial and the solid case proportions of this fine chronograph echo the greatest watch designs of all times, notably Rolex’s’ Dato Compax’ and Patek Philippe’s references 1518 and 2499.

Breguet No.2424

Comparing it to its peers, it is inevitable though to immediately spot the more playful design of the dial, most notably the outer blue date ring. It is also noteworthy to underline that these exclusivities were made in much smaller quantities than their counterparts from Geneva.

In fact, it is interesting that the few known examples of the Breguet triple calendar moon phase watch in steel were generally made and sold several years apart from each other, spanning the 1950s, 60s and 70s. This strongly suggests that they were made only upon request and never in any quantity.

Now extremely sought after and coveted by collectors, these triple calendar moon phase chronographs by the celebrated house of Breguet are a connoisseur’s choice and a significant prize for the collector of vintage steel complicated wristwatches.

Estimate: CHF100,000-200,000.

More details at: https://www.christies.com/en/auction/rare-watches-featuring-the-kairos-collection-part-i-29567/

Christie’s to Auction a Historic and Rare Patek Philippe Ref. 605 HU Heures Universelles Watch during its Upcoming Hong Kong Live Auction

Christie’s has announced the sale of a horological masterpiece in its Hong Kong Live auction on 24 May: the Patek Philippe 605 Heures Universelles, an 18K gold open-faced keyless lever world time watch with polychrome cloisonné enamel dial representing a map of the world.

Manufactured in 1948, and sold in 1954, this magnificent exemplar of Haute Horlogerie, one of the earliest to avail itself of Louis Cottier’s world time system, and created under Cottier’s direct supervision, is presented for the first time at auction. Among the 95 pieces produced by Louis Cottier and Patek Philippe from 1939 to 1964, only 3 examples in yellow gold, with an enamel map depicting the entire globe, are known to have survived.

The present yellow gold Ref. 605 HU is a superb and extremely well-preserved example of Patek Philippe’s world time watches with cloisonné enamel dial.

Patek Philippe reference 605 HU (Heures Universelles) World Time

Patek Philippe’s reference 605 HU (Heures Universelles) World Time dress watches with cloisonné enamel dial are among the most beautiful horological masterpieces of the marque’s 20th century production. This reference was one of the earliest to be based on Louis Cottier’s world time system, and each watch was designed and made under Cottier’s direct supervision.

From 1939 to 1964, Louis Cottier and Patek Philippe produced a total of 95 pieces, with 68 watches created in yellow gold and 27 in pink gold. The Reference 605 HU was available with a metal dial or a unique cloisonné enamel dial. Depending on the model, the latter depicted individual continents, hemispheres or even the entire planet, such as the present example.

Patek Philippe reference 605 HU (Heures Universelles) World Time
Today, only 3 examples in yellow gold, with a cloisonné enamel rendering of a world map, are known to have survived. One is displayed at the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, one in a private collection and one is being presented at auction for the first time at Christie’s in Hong Kong.

Masterfully crafted by the fabled enamellers Stern Frères, the dial of this watch is stamped with its movement number on its back, confirming that it had always been intended for this particular Ref. 605 HU.

The world time or Heures Universelles mechanism was invented in 1931 by the celebrated Geneva watchmaker Louis Cottier (1894-1966). The technology was incorporated into watches by several of Switzerland’s leading watch firms, including Patek Philippe (ref. 605, 1415 and 2523), Vacheron Constantin (ref. 3372), Agassiz and Rolex (ref. 4262). Cottier further perfected the movement in 1953 with the ability to adjust the city disk via a secondary crown. This allowed Patek Philippe to patent a system in 1958 by which the hour hand could be moved without affecting the progression of the minute hand.

  • Name of the watch: Patek Philippe 605 Heures Universelles
  • Estimate: HK$5,000,000–10,000,000

 

Christie’s Watches Online: The Dubai Edit – First Online Sale of the Season Passes the US$ 12 Million Mark

Christie’s Watches Online: The Dubai Edit (16 – 29 March 2022) achieved a total of US$12,001,500 and thus laying down an early marker for the season. There was global participation close to 700 registrations over the bidding period.

Leading the sale was a superb Patek Philippe Ref. 3974J, which achieved US$ 567,000. It was followed by two rare versions of Greubel Forsey’s GMT Sport, one in blue and the other a one-off in red, selling well above estimate and retail price.

The Patek Philippe Ref. 3974J Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar is one of the most important grand complication timepieces ever to be produced in series by Patek Philippe. The Ref. 3974 was launched in 1989 to celebrate the brand’s 150th anniversary and was the world’s most complicated wristwatch at the time.

Patek Philippe Ref. 3974J Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar
Patek Philippe Ref. 3974J Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

Only 160 or so were made, the majority in yellow gold. Early examples, such as the one sold, featured a case made by the legendary Jean-Pierre Hagmann.

Patek Philippe Ref. 3940G ‘Michael Ovitz’
Patek Philippe Ref. 3940G ‘Michael Ovitz’ and Ref. 3974J Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

A few records have been set by at the season-opener including the US$214,200 paid for the unique Patek Philippe Ref. 3940G with a custom pink gold dial commissioned by Michael S. Ovitz, renowned collector and former head of Disney Inc. This is now the most expensive Ref. 3940 sold at any auction.

F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Black Label and Tourbillon Souverain
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Black Label and Tourbillon Souverain

F.P. Journe lead the rally of the independents with an early rose gold Tourbillon Souverain with brass movement selling for US$504,000 and a Chronomètre à Résonance Black Label realising US$403,200.

Greubel Forsey GMT Sport
Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Red and Blue Models

A pair of Greubel Forsey GMT Sport including a unique execution in red, both fresh to market, returned impressive results too. While the GMT Sport Blue sold for U$478,800, the unique GMT Sport Red realised a price of US$ 504,000.

It was a great sale for collectible Rolex models – the exclusive ‘Rainbow’ Daytona Ref. REF. 116598RBOW sold for an impressive US$441,000, a vintage yellow gold Daytona Ref. 6265 ‘Oyster Split’ fetched US$252,000 and a rare Day-Date Ref. 18168 with an impressive Bloodstone dial realised US$201,000.

Rolex “Oyster Split” Daytona Reference 6265
Rolex “Oyster Split” Daytona Reference 6265

Top 10 Lots

  1. Lot 60: Patek Philippe 18K Yellow Gold Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch, Ref. 3974J – Sold for US$ 567,000.

  2. Lot 17: Greubel Forsey GMT Sport ‘Red’, One-off Version of the Titanium World Time Tourbillon – Sold for US$ 504,000.

  3. Lot 20: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Watch with 18K Rose Gold Case, Gold Dial and Brass Movement – Sold for US$ 504,000.

  4. Lot 18: Greubel Forsey GMT Sport ‘Blue’ titanium World Time Tourbillon, One of 11 Made – Sold for US$ 478,800.

  5. Lot 35: Rolex Daytona ‘Rainbow’ with 18K Yellow Gold Case and Black Lacquer Dial, Watch Set with Diamonds and Multi-Color Sapphires, Ref. 116598RBOW – Sold for USD 441,000.

  6. Lot 25: F.P. Journe Chronometre a Resonance Black Label Edition, Platinum Watch with Black Lacquer Dial, Power Reserve and Dual Time-Zone Display – Sold for USD 403,200.

  7. Lot 75: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15413BC RAINBOW, 18K White Gold Watch with Diamond-Paved Dial and Multi-Color, Baguette-Cut Sapphire-Set Bezel – Sold for USD 403,200.

  8. Lot 55: Patek Philippe Celestial Model with Case Made of Platinum and 18K Pink Gold, Blue Metallic Dial, Ref. 5102PR – Sold for USD 302,400.

  9. Lot 105: Rolex “Oyster Split” Daytona Reference 6265. Manual Winding Chronograph with 18k Yellow Gold Case, Valjoux 727 Movement, 18k Yellow Gold Milanese bracelet and “Oyster Split” Gold Tone Dial – Sold for USD 252,000.

  10. Lot 76: Patek Philippe Ref. 3940G ‘Michael Ovitz’, An 18K White Gold Perpetual Calendar Watch with a Unique Pink Gold Dial, Custom Made for American Businessman Michael S. Ovitz – Sold for USD 214,200.

[View All Lots]

Christie’s to Auction Two Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Watches

For the first time, Christie’s will be auctioning two superb examples of the Greubel Forsey GMT Sport, in titanium during the Christie’s Watches Online: The Dubai Edit, 15 to 29 March 2022.

The blue version is a limited edition of 11 pieces, immediately selling out when first created, while the red version is a special order – only one was ever made.

Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Watches

In 2019, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey introduced the GMT Sport with a lightweight and ultra-strong profiled titanium case, with integrated lugs and ovoid bezel to showcase the new movement. Water resistant to 100 metres, this timepiece stands out as the famed Manufacture’s most sport-oriented timepiece to date.

The movement was designed from scratch, from the suspended arched bridge for the hours and minutes display to the unique showcase for the Tourbillon 24 Secondes, and the universal time display with the three-dimensional globe.

Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Watches
The open-worked dial is a Greubel Forsey hallmark. The display side of the GMT Sport presents classic Greubel Forsey architecture, an open, orchestrated vision of watchmaking mastery between suspended bridges, semi-apparent wheels and floating dials in three dimensions.

Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Watches

In keeping with the sporting vocation of this timepiece, the focus is on legibility and efficiency. Whether they are visible on the dial side or concealed in the case back side, each of the 435 components of this hand-wound movement, including the titanium plates and bridges, live up to the most demanding criteria of the Atelier Greubel Forsey and the team’s painstaking care for the finest workmanship.

Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Watches

The Tourbillon 24 Secondes is showcased at one o’clock, secured by its distinctive and highly polished tourbillon bridge with black finished openings.

This third Fundamental Invention by Greubel Forsey in the field of the tourbillon (after the Double Tourbillon 30° and the Quadruple Tourbillon) stands out with its cage inclined at 25° and completing one full rotation in 24 seconds. The rotating tourbillon cage housing the regulating organ has 88 components, for a total weight of 0.38 grams – a feat made possible in particular by light alloy pillars and titanium bridges.

Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Watches
Precision and reliability summarise Greubel Forsey’s ground-breaking GMT mechanism. In this double-patented mechanism, the second time zone indication on the auxiliary dial between 10 and 11 o’clock is combined with a universal time display to intuitively read the current time anywhere in the world.

The remarkable innovation and striking spectacle of the terrestrial rotating globe – seen from above the North Pole – performs each complete anticlockwise turn on its axis in 24 hours.

Estimate: 400,000 – 600,000 US$ / each

Christie’s Watches Online: The Dubai Edit (15 – 30 March 2022) – Highlights

Christie’s ‘Watches Online: The Dubai Edit’ Spring 2022 auction will be taking place from March 15th to 30th, 2022. A curated selection of more than 150 watches will be on view at Christie’s Dubai during the course of the online sale and the Dubai-based team of watch specialists will be available at the gallery to discuss the watches on offer.

This Dubai sale is the first Christie’s watch auction of 2022. It will offer more than 150 lots comprising of rare, exceptional and highly sought-after timepieces.

From Left to Right: Patek Philippe Ref. 3940G ‘Ovitz dial’, Patek Philippe Ref. 3974J, Rolex Daytona ‘Rainbow’, Richard Mille RM 70-01, F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain with brass movement, F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Black Label
From Left to Right: Patek Philippe Ref. 3940G ‘Ovitz dial’, Patek Philippe Ref. 3974J, Rolex Daytona ‘Rainbow’, Richard Mille RM 70-01, F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain with brass movement, F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Black Label

Highlights

Richard Mille RM70-01 Tourbillon Alain Prost

The Richard Mille RM70-01 Tourbillon Alain Prost is a great example of how the brand pushes the boundaries of watchmaking. Unveiled in 2017, the watch was created in partnership with four-time Formula One champion and cycling enthusiast Alain Prost. The watch brings together a tourbillon movement with an unusual complication – a mechanical odometer that can tally distances up to 99,999 kilometres.

Furthermore, the watch’s asymmetrical shape provides optimum wear comfort and legibility whilst gripping the handlebars. The case is made from Carbon TPT, a material known for its durability and lightness, and now synonymous with the brand. With a limited edition of just 30 pieces, the estimate for this watch is provided upon request only.

Rolex Daytona ‘Rainbow’

This is the most desirable modern Rolex Daytona reference. Set with 36 baguette-cut sapphires in a rainbow gradation around the bezel, framing a black lacquer dial with counters made with gold crystals and a mid-case set with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds. Due to the complexity inherent to their production, these models were made in very limited edition and have an artisanal-like quality, as exemplified by the gem-setting on the bezel. Unsurprisingly, demand for these Rainbow Daytonas has far outstripped supply. Estimate: US$300,000-500,000.

F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain with brass movement

Since 2005 F.P. Journe’s timepieces are made of 18k gold movements. Early models made between 2001 and 2004, however, featured movements made from brass. It is estimated that only around 2,000 timepieces were fitted with brass movements. As a result, they are more collectible and significant for an epoch in the watchmaker’s journey.

The Tourbillon Souverain launched F. P. Journe’s illustrious career in 1999. It was the first wristwatch to combine a remontoire d’égalité (a constant-force device ensuring a consistent supply of power from the mainspring to the escapement) with a tourbillon, establishing F. P. Journe’s status as a technical and design genius. Estimate: US$400,000-600,000.

F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Black Label

Launched in the year 2000, the Chronomètre à Résonance was the second wristwatch developed by F.P. Journe to feature two balance wheels oscillating in resonance with each other, a technical tour de force. The present watch’s exclusivity is further enhanced by it being a Black Label Edition, reserved exclusively for existing F.P. Journe clients only. The Black Label Editions were distinguished by their platinum cases and black lacquer dials. Only 12 Black Label pieces are allotted to the boutiques in any year, with just two pieces for each model in the collection. Estimate: US$250,000-450,000.

Patek Philippe Ref. 3974J

One of the most important watches ever made in series by Patek Philippe, the reference 3974 was launched in 1989 to celebrate the brand’s 150th anniversary. At the time, this was the world’s most complicated wristwatch, combining a minute repeater with a perpetual calendar. Only 160 or so examples of the Ref. 3974 were made, the majority in yellow gold. Early examples of this reference, like the one we are privileged to offer in this sale, were presented with a case made by the legendary Jean-Pierre Hagmann.

The watch is powered by an impressive Cal. 27 RQ, a 22K micro-rotor movement with 467 parts. Patek Philippe ceased the production of the Ref. 3974 in 2000, but the reference is now considered a modern classic epitomising the strengths and wonderful acoustics of Patek Philippe minute repeaters. Estimate: $350,000-450,000.

A unique Patek Philippe Ref. 3940G perpetual calendar made for Michael Ovitz

Made by special order for Michael S. Ovitz, the former president of the Walt Disney Company, this second series Ref. 3940 perpetual calendar in white gold features an exclusive dial in pink gold with applied Breguet numerals.

Ovitz commissioned many custom-made Patek Philippe watches, all bearing his stylised initials, M.S.O. on the dial. Reference 3940 is a considered the quintessential Patek Philippe perpetual calendar and was produced between 1984 and 2007, making it one of the longest production models in the brand’s history. Estimate: US$100,000-200,000.

Christie’s Watches Department achieves total sales of US$ 205 million in 2021

In 2021, Christie’s Watches Department achieved just over US$ 205m (2020: US$ 80m, 2019 US$ 130m) from auctions: 7 live and 13 online sales in Hong Kong, Geneva, Dubai and New York.

“The Christie’s Watches dashboard as we close 2021 shows a solid progression on pre-covid levels. Who knows how we will look back at this year, but one thing is certain: Our ability to meet its many challenges and continue to achieve strong results, even set new records, comes down to our focus on making Christie’s synonymous with the most exciting and rewarding auction experience for buyers and sellers. Both have dreams, and making them come true is the one true measure for success for all of us at Christie’s” remarks François Curiel, Chairman of Christie’s Europe & Asia, and Chairman of the Luxury Division. “It explains how our network of Watch Specialists consistently attracts spectacular lots and achieves the highest prices, and how we as a team contribute to a positive dynamic through innovation and agility. It is at the core of our ability to shift gears between live and online – and deliver an exceptional 360-degree experience on parallel tracks. This is also true for Asia and the Middle-East where we are maintaining strong growth momentum.”

2021 in Key Figures

A 20%-plus increase vs. 2019 pre-covid points to a solid growth trajectory, supported by Christie’s 360-degrees strategy with online sales complementary to live auctions for the long term rather than a temporary substitute owing to current developments, combined with an unprecedented level of quality as well as breadth and depth of watches on offer on a global scale, in addition to the increasing and more inclusive buyer and seller demographics. The rise of online sales at the high-end segment for rare and exceptional watches saw a 5-fold increase vs 2019. Where total online sales were up just over 600 percent from 2019 to 2021, the number of online sales had (only) increased by just over 60%.

  • Live sales in 2021 totalled US$ 145,261,956: +292.1% vs 2020 (US$ 49,730,277), +20.4% vs 2019 (US$ 120,659,208)
  • Online sales in 2021 totalled US$ 59,806,073: +98.8% vs 2020 (US$ 30,091,700), +602.3% vs 2019 (US$ 9,928,410)
  • Total (live + online) sales for 2021: US$ 205,068,029: +256.9% vs 2020 (US$ 79,821,977), +157% vs 2019 (US$ 130,587,618)

Over the course of 20 sales (live and online) in 2021, Christie’s Watches offered a total of 3,213 lots, with live sales accounting for 787 lots (including the 54 one-off pieces auctioned by Christie’s for the Only Watch charity sale) and online for 2,436 lots.

Throughout 2021, Christie’s has been entrusted with the sale of some of the most historically significant, eminently collectible and supremely desirable timepieces ever to come to market – a testament to the auction house’s hard-earned reputation over the centuries, meticulously burnished by Christie’s Watch Departments and the Specialists who lead them in Hong Kong, Dubai, Geneva and New York.

“Christie’s HK Watches is leading the market in Asia for the third consecutive year. 12 world records have been achieved, combined with a historic result of HK$ 559 million (US$ 72 million) for the year in Asia. This includes the day and evening sales recently held in November, which realised a combined total of HK$ 228,077,500 (US$ 29,388,699)” notes Alexandre Bigler, Vice President and Head of Watches, Christie’s Asia Pacific. “At these two events alone Christie’s set four world auction records for the Patek Philippe references 1436J, 2419J, 2497J and a Richard Mille RM 07-02 Pink Sapphire.”

“With the two online auctions held in spring (US$ 14,120,250) and autumn (US$ 10,507,000) in 2021, Christie’s Dubai achieved total sales of US$ 24,627,250 for the year, setting a new record for an online watch sale as well as firmly establishing online auctions in the 10 million +region. We have come a long way from the US$ 2.5m registered less than a decade ago. Not only is Dubai able to attract amazing lots, such as a Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 or the fabled Ref. 5002P-001, a Sky Moon Tourbillon, but as an increasingly important hub for the collector community, Dubai gives sellers the assurance of achieving strong prices for exceptional pieces,” says Remy Julia, Head of Watches, Christie’s Middle East, India & Africa.

 “Christie’s Geneva keeps raising the bar in terms of sheer range. At the Rare Watches sale held in early November, 100% watches were sold and we were able to offer the exceptional Rolex Deep Sea Special #1 which achieved the record of US$ 2,074,841. One other exceptional piece, the Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 achieved US$ 2,898,000. It has indeed been a remarkable year for the Geneva office, which closes 2021 with total sales for both live and online auctions at US$ 60,035,792.” says Rémi Guillemin, Head of Watches, Christie’s Geneva.

“We are extremely pleased with the New York sale results with a total of US$ 18,051,875 for 2021. The online auctions presented a selection geared to every type of client – from experienced collectors to those looking for their first timepiece. The solid performance demonstrates the continued strength of Christie’s online platform and its ability to reach the broadest possible global audience. Christie’s New York closed the year on a good note – Fine Watchmaking: Important Timepieces and the Independent Collection achieved a total of $5,518,250, with a strong international participation, bidders from 34 countries and over 30% new registrants.” says Keith Davis, Head of Watches, Christie’s Americas.

Global Top 5 lots by sale price in 2021*

*Excluding the 53 lots sold for Only watch charity auction.

{Source: CHRISTIE’S}

Christie’s Fine Watchmaking: Important Timepieces and the Independent Collection, New York Edition, 24 November – 10 December 2021 – Results

Christie’s Fine Watchmaking: Important Timepieces and the Independent Collection (24 November – 10 December) achieved a total of $5,518,250 with 95% sold by lot and 143% hammer above low estimate. There was global participation with bidders from 34 countries and over 30% new registrants.

Leading the sale was Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 3 Tourbillon in 18k white gold, which sold for $237,500. The sale also achieved notable results for independent watchmakers, including F.P. Journe, Octa Reserve de Marche, 18K pink gold, brass movement, achieved $175,000 and A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Flyback in 18K pink gold, which achieved over twice its high estimate and sold for $137,500.

Greubel Forsey, Invention Piece 3, Tourbillon 24-hour display with minutes, small seconds and 72 hours power reserve 18k white gold limited edition Circa 2010
Greubel Forsey, Invention Piece 3, Tourbillon 24-hour display with minutes, small seconds and 72 hours power reserve 18k white gold, No. 9 of a limited edition of 11 pieces. Circa 2010, Price Realized: $237,500 @ Christie’s

Additionally, strong prices were achieved for Patek Philippe references including the ‘Celestial’ reference 5102G, 18k white gold automatic astronomical wristwatch with sky chart, phases and orbit of the moon, which realized $187,500; Nautilus reference 5712, 18k pink gold, which achieved more than double its high estimate and sold for $125,000; reference 3970P perpetual calendar chronograph that realized $118,750.

Christie’s exceptional year of watches continues with the online sale of Watches Online: The Geneva Edit An Important Private Collection, open online for bidding through 14 December.

Top 15 achievers/ Price realized

  1. Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 3 Tourbillon in 18k white gold: $237,500

  2. Patek Philippe ref 5102G, 18k white gold automatic astronomical wristwatch with sky chart, phases and orbit of the moon: $187,500

  3. A. Lange & Sohne datograph flyback chronograph in 18k pink gold, Ref. 403.031: $137,500

  4. F.P. Journe Octa reserve de marche in 18k pink gold with brass movement: $175,000

  5. Richard Mille watch in 18k pink gold and skeletonized dial, Ref. RM005AFPG: $137,500

  6. Patek Philippe Nautilus in 18k pink gold, Ref. 5712: $125,000

  7. Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum, Ref. 3970P: $118,750

  8. Rolex Daytona “Big Red” Chronograph in Steel, Ref. 6263: $112,500

  9. F.P. Journe Chronometre Bleu Tantalum Manual-Winding Wristwatch, No. 180: $93,750

  10. Rolex, “Padellone” 18K Yellow Gold Triple Calendar, Ref. 817: $87,500

  11. A. Lange & Sohne Double Split Seconds Flyback Chronograph in Platinum, Ref. 404.035: $87,500

  12. MB&F and Sarpaneva Moonmachine 1 Titanium Limited Edition 2/18: $81,250

  13. Tudor “Big Crown” Submariner in Steel, Ref. 7924: $75,000

  14. Patek Philippe Chronograph in 18K Pink Gold, Ref. 5070R: $75,000

  15. Patek Philippe Chronograph in 18K Yellow Gold, Ref. 5070J: $75,000

Summary

  • Total lots: 207
  • Total amount achieved: $5,518,250
  • 95% Sold By Lot

Christie’s Hong Kong’s Watches Auctions 27 November 2021 – Results

Christie’s Hong Kong’s Watches Day and Evening auctions held on 27 November 2021 achieved a combined total of HK$228,077,500/ US$29,388,699. It witnessed 4 world auction records for References across both sales including Patek Philippe References: 1436J, 2419J, 2497J, Richard Mille – Pink Sapphire Ref 07-02.

Christie’s Watches Department created another monumental chapter in horological world auction history, with the day auction An Exceptional Season of Watches including The Champion Collection (Part 1) and evening auction Timeless Marvels realising a combined total of HK$228,077,500/ US$29,388,699, pushing the category’s annual sale total in Asia to HK$559 Million/ US$72 Million for the unprecedented offerings, across four live and five online-only auctions.

The sales achieved a combined sale through rate of 87%, with almost 30% of lots sold via Christie’s LiveTM. The bustling saleroom invited bidding by an extensive collector base from 22 countries across 4 continents, as well as an contingent of millennial buyers who accounted for more than 40% of new buyers.

Sale Highlights – Timeless Marvels

The evening sale achieved HK$77,075,000/ US$9,931,422 and achieved an 82% sell-through rate by lot. In addition to the top lot, buyers showed a strong appetite for other vintage Patek Philippe wristwatches with exceptional provenance, highlighted by Ref. 1436 once owned by Henry Graves Jr., the legendary patron of the brand; as well as Ref. 2497 once acquired by Reginald H. Fullerton Jr., the grandson of Henry Graves Jr.. Both references set auction records.

Enamel creations, rare pocket watches, and dome clocks were also 100% sold, highlighted by the amphora-form watch attributed to Piguet & Capt and made for the Chinese market in the early 19th Century, and an openface keyless lever watch by Patek Philippe, made to celebrate the company’s 175th anniversary in 2014 .

Patek Philippe Minute repeater reference 2419, retailed by Cartier
Patek Philippe Minute repeater reference 2419, retailed by Cartier

The top lot of the sales was a unique Patek Philippe 18k gold minute repeating wristwatch with blackened hands and index, large subsidiary second dial, repeating slider and crown, ref. 2419, retailed by Cartier, manufactured in 1946. Lot 2508. Price realised: HK$23,050,000/ US$2,970,085.

Other top performers

  1. Lot 2509 – Patek Philippe. An extremely rare and historically important 18k gold split second chronograph wristwatch with Breguet numerals, Ref. 1436, Sold to Henry Graves Jr. In 1947, manufactured in 1946. Price realised: HK$13,450,000/ US$1,733,086.
  2. Lot 2510 – Patek Philippe. An 18k gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with sweep centre seconds and moon phases, Ref. 2497, manufactured in 1951. Price realised: HK$13,450,000/ US$1,733,086.
  3. Lot 2505 – Attributed to Piguet & Capt. An 18k gold and enamel, pearl-set musical, perfume flask and automaton amphora-form watch made for the Chinese market, Circa 1805. Price realised: HK$6,250,000/ US$805,338.
  4. Lot 2512 – Patek Philippe. A unique 18k white gold openface keyless lever watch with wood miniature and a unique associated 18k white gold, wood and ruby-set Patek Philippe watch stand, Ref. 982/181g-001, Made to celebrate the company’s 175th Anniversary in 2014. Property from The Champion Collection. Price realised: HK$3,000,000/ US$386,562.
  5. Lot 2515 – Patek Philippe. A very fine and rare limited edition stainless steel cushion-shaped single button split seconds chronograph wristwatch with rose gold sunburst dial and black breguet numerals, made in a limited series of 10 pieces. Ref. 5950/1A-011, circa 2014. Property from The Champion Collection. Price realised: HK$5,625,000/ US$724,804.
  6. Lot 2516 – Patek Philippe. A possibly unique and important 18k pink gold and diamond-set tonneau-shaped automatic minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date, moon phases, leap year indication and black dial with diamond-set indexes. Ref. 5013R-014, circa 2010. Property from The Champion Collection. Price realised: HK$4,000,000/ US$515,416.

Sale Highlights – An Exceptional Season of Watches including The Champion Collection (Part 1)

The sale totalled HK$151,002,500/ US$19,457,276, with sell-through rates of 87% by lot and 89% by value. Close to one-third of lots were sold via Christie’s LiveTM.

The top lot was lot 2294 – Richard Mille, a pink sapphire, 18k pink gold and diamond-set skeletonized lady’s automatic wristwatch with mother-of-pearl dial, Ref. RM 07-02, circa 2016, sold for HK$10,450,000/ US$1,346,524, setting a world auction record for the reference.

Patek Philippe modern complications fetched remarkable prices, particularly for minute-repeating wristwatches references 5074, 5207, and Nautilus model Ref. 5711. Rolex vintage pieces continued to command exceptional prices, led by Ref. 6238 which is one of only two known examples.

Timepieces by fast-rising brands and independent watchmakers are becoming increasingly desirable among buyers as the sale saw a 100% sell-through rate for F.P Journe, A. Lange & Söhne, Voutilainen, Parmigiani Fleurier, and Laurent Ferrier pieces.

Other top achievers

  1. Lot 2378 – Patek Philippe. A rare platinum automatic “cathedral” minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, 24 hour and leap year indication. Ref. 5074, circa 2012. Price realised: HK$6,850,000/ US$882,650.
  2. Lot 2379 – Patek Philippe. A rare 18k pink gold minute repeating instantaneous perpetual calendar tourbillon wristwatch with moon phases, day/night and leap year indication. Ref. 5207, circa 2013. Price realised: HK$5,625,000/ US$724,804.
  3. Lot 2355 – Patek Philippe. A very rare stainless steel automatic wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, date, bracelet and olive green dial. Nautilus model, ref. 5711, circa 2021. Price realised: HK$3,250,000/ US$418,776.
  4. Lot 2288 – Voutilainen. A unique platinum dual-time wristwatch with lacquered dial 28 gml center model, unique piece, circa 2015. Property from The Champion Collection. Price realised: HK$5,250,000/ US$676,484.
  5. Lot 2333 – Rolex. A very rare 14k chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, ref. 6238, circa 1967. Price realised: HK$5,000,000/ US$644,270.
  6. Lot 2205 – Rolex. A group of four 18k white gold automatic chronograph wristwatches with yellow mother-of-pearl, pink mother-of-pearl, turquoise chrysoprase and green chrysoprase dials. Daytona model, Ref. 116519, “beach”, circa 2000 to 2002. Price realised: HK$2,250,000/ US$289,922.
  7. Lot 2214 – F.P. Journe. An 18k pink gold and silver limited edition tourbillon wristwatch, made to celebrate the 30th Anniversary of F.P.Journe 30 year Anniversary tourbillon model, limited edition to 99 pieces, circa 2013. Property from The Champion Collection. Price realised: HK$3,250,000/ US$418,776.
  8. Lot 2217 – F.P. Journe. An early 18k pink gold dual time chronometer wristwatch with resonance-controlled twin independent gear-train movement and power reserve Chronomètre à résonance model, circa 2002. Property from The Champion Collection. Price realised: HK$3,000,000/ US$386,562.
  9. Lot 2248 – A. Lange & Söhne. An extremely rare 18k pink gold limited edition tourbillon wristwatch with chain fusée and power reserve. Pour le mérite model, Limited edition to 150 pieces, Ref. 701.011, circa 1999. Price realised: HK$3,250,000/ US$418,776.

Christie’s ‘Rare Watches’ Live auction in Geneva achieves a total of CHF 22.8 million

Christie’s “Rare Watches” Live auction on 08 November this year achieved a total of CHF 22,827,250 (USD 25 million / EUR 21.6 million) with 100% sold by lot and 192% above low estimate. There was strong global participation from 26 countries representing 5 continents. Over 690 registrants were active in the sale, of which 15% were new to Christie’s.

The most expensive Rolex Deep Sea Special N°1 sold this season in Geneva, achieved CHF 1,890,000. This watch was attached to the hull of Auguste Piccard’s bathyscaphe Trieste for its experimental deep diving to the depth of 3,150m in 1953.

Rolex Deep Sea Special N°1
Rolex Deep Sea Special N°1

The Patek Philippe Ref. 2523, two crown world time, achieved CHF 2,670,000. This extremely fine and highly important Patek Philippe is the first example of an 18k gold two crown world-time wristwatch with 24-hour indication and first time seen waved guilloché gold centre.

Other highlights including:

Patek Philippe, lot 87, chronograph, white gold, perpetual calendar with moon phases achieved CHF 687,500 (Est. CHF 300-500,000),

Patek Philippe, lot 84, chronograph, yellow gold, limited ‘Saatchi’ edition achieved CHF 500,000 (Est. CHF 100-200,000),

Patek Philippe, lot 95, wristwatch, yellow gold, double signed ‘Tiffany & Co’, Triple complication, circa 1972 achieved CHF300,000 (Est. CHF 80-160,000).

Pocket watches outperformed with Patek Philippe Lot 42, yellow gold and diamonds Ref 903 (Est CHF 35-55,000) achieved CHF150,000, and the Rolex Lot 24, Pink gold World time double signed by Philippe Beguin (Est. CHF 25-35,000) achieved CHF 125,000, the Breguet, Lot 57, Hunter double case half-quarter repeating lever à Tact, equation of Time (Est. CHF 300-600,000) achieved CHF 1.206 million, and the Breguet, Lot 58, Four-Minute tourbillon (Est. CHF 400-600,000) achieved CHF 1.230 million.

Christie’s Hong Kong Watches Department Announces the Highlights of Its Upcoming Live Sales on 27 November 2021

Christie’s Hong Kong Watches Department has announced two live sales on 27 November, at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.

27 November will kick start with the Afternoon Sale ‘AN EXCEPTIONAL SEASON OF WATCHES INCLUDING THE CHAMPION COLLECTION (PART 1)’ which features 201 lots. The full Champion Collection comprises around 500 modern and contemporary timepieces that will be offered at Christie’s starting this season through to 2022.

Next, the Evening Sale ‘TIMELESS MARVELS’ at which 17 marvels from the enchanting world of horology will be going to the highest and luckiest bidders.

Alongside on view is a non-selling exhibition of The Triazza Collection, which comprises five stunning Patek Philippe timepieces. Bound to elicit gasps of awe and sighs of desire are the following remarkable watches: the Ref. 2330 observatory tested; the Esmond Bradley Martin Ref. 605 HU cloisonné dial ‘North America’; the Ref. 2523 with cloisonne enamel North America map; the ‘Eric Clapton’ Ref. 2499 in platinum, the only one in private hands; and the Ref. 2499 Double Signed Tiffany & Co.

Evening Auction – “TIMELESS MARVELS”

Enamel Phenomena

(1) Attributed to Piguet & Capt. An 18k gold and enamel, pearl-set musical, perfume flask and automaton amphora-form watch made for the Chinese market, circa 1805.

Attributed to Piguet & Capt. An 18k gold and enamel, pearl-set musical, perfume flask and automaton amphora-form watch made for the Chinese market

Believed to have been made for the highest levels of Chinese society, in circa 1805, it is known that the twin of this creation is stored and exhibited in the Patek Philippe museum. In very good condition for its age, this marvel of rarity is absolutely fresh to the market and is being presented for the first time at auction. Estimate: HK$ 2,400,000-7,200,000 / US$ 300,000-900,000.

(2) Attributed to Piguet & Capt. An 18K gold and enamel necessaire with enamel miniature, concealed clock, perfume bottle, pencil holder, ear-spoon and original winding key, believe came from the Chinese Emperor’s Summer Palace of the Qing dynasty, circa 1805.

Attributed to Piguet & Capt. An 18K gold and enamel necessaire with enamel miniature

This extremely beautiful and exquisitely made gold and enamel nécessaire with concealed watch is one of a matching pair made in Geneva for the Chinese market at the dawn of the 19th Century. Interestingly, that piece was accompanied by a hand-written document stating that it had been part of the collection from the Chinese Emperor’s Summer Palace. Estimate: HK$ 800,000-2,400,000 / US$ 100,000-300,000.

(3) Andries Vermeulen. An 22k gold, lapis, ruby, emerald and diamond-set quarter repeating pair case pocket watch with enamel miniature and Chinese dragons with 5 cLaws on the case, made for the Chinese Imperial family of the Qing dynasty, circa 1740.

Andries Vermeulen. An 22k gold, lapis, ruby, emerald and diamond-set quarter repeating pair case pocket watch

This sumptuous richly jewelled gold quarter repeating pair cased watch featuring the royal symbol of the five-clawed dragon, was made for the Emperor of China, QianLong. Beautifully engraved and set with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, panels of lapis lazuli and an enamel portrait of a European lady, it exemplifies the exceptional European works of art created in the eighteenth century for export to China.

The present watch is one of a small group of very similarly decorated watches featuring the five-clawed dragon that were delivered to the Chinese royal family. Estimate: HK$ 800,000-2,400,000 / US$ 100,000-300,000.

(4) Attributed to Piguet & Capt. An 18k pink gold, diamond-set and enamel rectangular-shaped keywound quarter repeating ring watch with automaton, adjustable shank and original fitted box and purpose-made key, shank stamped with the french import mark for 1809-1819, circa 1810.

Attributed to Piguet & Capt. An 18k pink gold, diamond-set and enamel rectangular-shaped keywound quarter repeating ring watch with automaton

An amazing feat of miniaturization combined with the art of the jeweller and enamellist, it is the only ring watch known to have the mechanism for the watch and quarter repeating automaton fitted within the confines of such a small space. Only a handful of ring watches with complications have appeared on the open market to date.

Amongst these exceedingly scarce specimens, the present ring watch occupies a very special position: it features a particularly rare and unusual characteristic of a quarter repeating mechanism combined with two automatons in the form of two cupids in whose arms are striking the past hours and quarters alternately on two small bells atop the dial.

Moreover, not only are the bezel and the visible balance diamond-set but, for a ring watch, the dial has the exceptional feature of having a painted scene. Estimate: HK$ 800,000-2,400,000 / us$ 100,000-300,000

(5) Attributed to Charles Abraham Bruguier the younger. A tortoiseshell, gilt and enamel singing bird box with winding key, retailed by Patek Philippe, circa 1880.

Attributed to Charles Abraham Bruguier the younger. A tortoiseshell, gilt and enamel singing bird box with winding key, retailed by Patek Philippe, circa 1880

This charming singing bird box is an exquisite example of the high quality of objects produced by the most eminent craftsmen in Geneva. It is also one of the few bird boxes known that is retailed by Patek Philippe & Co.

The movement, although apparently unsigned, can be attributed stylistically to the eminent maker Charles-Abraham Bruguier the younger. Estimate: HK$ 400,000-800,000 / US$ 50,000-100,000.

Patek Philippe Repeaters

(1) Patek Philippe 18k gold minute repeating wristwatch with blackened hands and index, large subsidiary second dial, repeating slider and crown, Ref. 2419, retailed by Cartier, manufactured in 1946.

Patek Philippe 18k gold minute repeating wristwatch with blackened hands and index, large subsidiary second dial, repeating slider and crown, Ref. 2419, retailed by Cartier

This extraordinary and unique reference 2419 wristwatch is not only highly important as a mid-century minute repeater but incredibly it is also retailed by Cartier, punch numbered and fully confirmed by the Cartier archives.

Sold to the Henry Stern Watch Agency in New York in 1950 before being sold to its first owner by Cartier’s New York branch in the same year. The balance bridge of the movement is engraved with Patek Philippe’s export code ‘HOX’ confirming that the watch was destined for the American market. Estimate: HK$ 12,000,000-20,000,000 / US$ 1,500,000-2,500,000.

(2) Patek Philippe. An 18k Gold Cushion-Shaped Minute Repeating Wristwatch with Breguet Numerals, Manufactured in 1930. Estimate: HK$ 6,000,000-12,000,000 / US$ 750,000-1,500,000.

Patek Philippe. An 18k Gold Cushion-Shaped Minute Repeating Wristwatch with Breguet Numerals

(3) Patek Philippe. An 18k gold minute repeating wristwatch, ref. 2524/1, Manufactured in 1955. Estimate: HK$ 6,000,000-12,000,000 / US$ 750,000-1,500,000.

Patek Philippe. An 18k gold minute repeating wristwatch, ref. 2524

Vintage Patek Philippe Marvels with Exceptional Provenance

(1) Patek Philippe extremely rare and historical important 18k gold split second chronograph wristwatch with Breguet numerals, Ref. 1436, sold to Henry Graves Jr. in 1947, manufactured in 1946.

Patek Philippe extremely rare and historical important 18k gold split second chronograph wristwatch with Breguet numerals, Ref. 1436, sold to Henry Graves Jr

Mr. Henry Graves Jr., the legendary patron of Patek Philippe, ordered this 18k gold split second chronograph wristwatch with Breguet numerals in 1946 and acquired it in 1947.

Ref.1436 is Patek Philippe’s first split seconds chronograph wristwatch produced in series. The first generation, of which this watch is a part, was made until the late 1940s. Since its introduction to the market in 1938 and discontinued in 1971, only 140 examples are made during the 33 years production period.

As one of the finest examples to ever appear on the market, the present example features applied gold Breguet numerals, often considered the most attractive dial variation. It is also thought to be the least-commonly made dial for this reference, with most examples featuring baton or a combination of baton and Arabic numerals. To date, just over a dozen of Ref. 1436 models have surfaced featuring such a dial. This extremely rare and historical timepiece is a true rarity as it last appeared at auction about ten years ago. Estimate: HK$11,500,000-23,500,000/ US$ 1,500,000-3,000,000

(2) Patek Philippe 18k gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with sweep centre seconds and moon phases, Ref. 2497, manufactured in 1951.

Patek Philippe 18k gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with sweep centre seconds and moon phases, Ref. 2497

This phenomenal watch is one of the most significant reference 2497s in private hands today. Furthermore, it was purchased new from the Patek Philippe salon in Geneva by Reginald H. Fullerton Jr., the grandson of the firm’s most famous client, Henry Graves Jr., a provenance that is considered irreproachable in the world of Patek Philippe.

Regarded as the ‘prototype’ watch and starting point for reference 2497, it is of immense historical importance as the very first example of the reference and also in the wider development of Patek Philippe’s ‘golden age’ complicated wristwatches during the 1950s. Indeed, this was the very watch that was displayed on the Patek Philippe stand at the Basel Fair in 1953 to promote the proposed new model. Estimate: HK$ 13,200,000-23,500,000 / US$ 1,700,000-3,000,000.

Rare Pocket Watches and Dome Clocks

  • Patek Philippe 18k white gold openface keyless lever watch with wood miniature and a unique associated 18k white gold, wood and ruby-set Patek Philippe watch stand, Ref. 982/181G-001, made to celebrate the company’s 175th anniversary in 2014. Estimate: HK$ 1,600,000-3,200,000 / US$ 200,000-400,000.
  • Patek Philippe gilt brass solar powered dome clock with cloisonné enamel depicting “l’aventure de la voile” by Elisabeth Perusset Lagger, Ref. 1155, manufactured in 1978. Part I of The Champion Collection. Estimate: HK$1,000,000-2,000,000 / US$ 125,000-250,000.
  • Patek Philippe 18k gold openface keyless lever watch with enamel miniature depicting “country scene of patrician life” by Mrs. Pellarin-Leroy and a unique associated 18k gold, enamel and diamond-set Patek Philippe. Watch stand, ref. 866/22, manufactured in 1972, watch stand ref. 9624. Part I of The Champion Collection. Estimate: HK$1,200,000-2,000,000 / US$ 150,000-250,000.
  • Patek Philippe gilt brass solar powered dome clock with cloisonné enamel depicting “Tristan de Leonois” by Luce Chappaz, Ref. 1123, manufactured in 1981. Part I of The Champion Collection. Estimate: HK$1,000,000-2,000,000 / US$ 125,000-250,000).

Exceptionally Rare Modern Patek Philippe Wristwatches

  • Patek Philippe stainless steel split seconds single button chronograph wristwatch with salmon colour dial with Breguet numerals, Ref. 5950/1A-001, circa 2015. It is believed to be made in 10 examples only. Part I of The Champion Collection. Estimate: HK$ 2,400,000-4,800,000 / US$ 300,000-600,000.
  • Patek Philippe platinum automatic minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, 24 hour, leap year, day/night indication and black dial with Breguet numeral, ref. 3974, manufactured in 2001. The only known example to the market, with a case made by the legendary Jean-Pierre Hagmann. Estimate: HK$ 12,500,000-20,000,000 / US$ 1,600,000-2,600,000.
  • Patek Philippe 18k pink gold tonneau-shaped automatic minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date, moon phases, leap year indication and black dial with diamond index, ref. 5013, circa 2000. The only known example and never seen before at auction nor in literature. Part I of The Champion Collection, Estimate: HK$ 2,800,000-5,600,000 /US$ 350,000-700,000.

Afternoon Auction – “An Exceptional Season Of Watches Including The Champion Collection (Part 1)”

Highlights

  • Voutilainen platinum dual time wristwatch with lacquering and gold dust decorated dial and movement made by the Unryan workshop in Japan, circa 2015. From the Part I of The Champion Collection. Estimate: HK$ 600,000-1,200,000 / US$ 75,000-150,000.
  • Laurent Ferrier platinum tourbillon wristwatch with black enamel grand feu dial and Breguet indexes, Galet classic ‘piece unique’, circa 2013. From the Part I of The Champion Collection. Estimate: HK$ 400,000-800,000 / US$ 50,000-100,000.
  • Richard Mille pink sapphire, 18k pink gold and diamond-set skeletonized lady’s automatic wristwatch with mother-of-pearl dial, Ref. RM 07-02, circa 2016. One of the five examples made. Estimate: HK$ 9,500,000-17,500,000 / US$ 1,200,000-2,200,000.
  • Rolex stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, Daytona model, retailed by Tiffany & CO., ref. 6239, circa 1966. Estimate: HK$ 1,500,000-2,500,000 / US$ 190,000-320,000.
  • Rolex 18k gold chronograph wristwatch with black dial and bracelet, ref. 6238, circa 1967. One of the two known examples only. Estimate: HK$ 3,000,000-6,000,000 / US$ 380,000-750,000.

The Triazza Collection

The Triazza Collection is an unprecedented collection of five exceptional, rare, and important Patek Philippe timepieces manufactured from 1924 – 1987, astutely acquired by a prominent private Asian collector.

The non-selling exhibition will offer watch lovers a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to appreciate the exceptionally rare and beautiful vintage treasures by Patek Philippe, which encompass a possibly one and only large-size Geneva Observatory 1st Prize winning tourbillon ref. 2330 with both cases and both dials surviving intact, made in 1924; the Esmond Bradley Martin ref. 605 HU cloisonné dial ‘North America’ manufactured in 1950; one of only three Patek Philippe ref. 2523 in yellow gold known to exist with a cloisonné map dial depicting North America, manufactured in 1955; the only platinum ref. 2499/100 in private hands, formerly the property of Eric Clapton; as well as an 18k gold ref. 2499 with double-signed dial, retailed by Tiffany & Co., made in 1977.

Quick glance on auction schedule/lots

Date of auctions: 27 November 2021
Place: Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre

Afternoon Sale: an exceptional season of watches incl. The champion collection part 1
201 lots, Total Low Estimate: HK$ 110,993,000

Evening Sale: Timeless Marvels
17 lots, Total Low Estimate: HK$ 76,900,000

Source/Image Credit: Christie’s Hong Kong

Christie’s Watches Online: Geneva Edit (2 – 16 November 2021) – Highlights

Scheduled from 2nd to 16th November this year, Christie’s Watches Online: Geneva Edit auction will offer several exceptional timepieces, including a Rolex “Rainbow” Daytona in white gold; a rose gold Rolex “Pearl Master” with pavé-set diamonds; an elegant Cartier “Tank Asymètrique” in platinum; as well as two exceptional Patek Philippe models: the Ref. 3941 yellow gold perpetual calendar and the Ref. 5270G white gold perpetual calendar chronograph.

Highlights

Lot 201 – Rolex White Gold “Rainbow” Daytona, Ref. 116599

First introduced in 2012, the Daytona Rainbow is the most impressive and appealing of Rolex’s gem-set creations. The model was launched to widespread acclaim and is highly appreciated by collectors for its complete shake of tradition and the superb quality of the gem-set bezel with its painstakingly selected colour-matched stones.

Rolex White Gold “Rainbow” Daytona, Ref. 116599

The first examples were in yellow gold, followed by white gold and in 2018 the ‘Everose’ pink gold version was introduced with rainbow indexes and a choice of black or pave diamond-set dial. The case is further enhanced with white diamonds on the lugs and crown guards. The uniformity of the gems in respect to their colour and shape is quite exceptional.  (Est. CHF 200,000 – 400,000)

Lot 279 – Patek Philippe White Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, Ref. 5270G

Upon its introduction at the Basel Fair in April 2011 it was the firm’s first perpetual calendar chronograph to use a 100% in-house designed and manufactured movement. This model houses the celebrated calibre 29-535 PS with Patek Philippe’s modern hallmark of excellence, the PP Seal. The 5270 was introduced with dial variants. The first, now discontinued, has a railroad outer seconds track, larger Patek Philippe signature, and black oxidized gold baton numerals.

Patek Philippe White Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, Ref. 5270G

The second variation was introduced in late 2013 with both a silver as well as blue dial, such as the present watch. Perhaps the most distinguishing feature of these dials is the dip in the outer seconds track at 6 o’clock. Often referred to as a “chin dial”, this feature is characteristic of only this second generation 5270.

In addition, the dial features legible circular apertures for day/night as well as leap year indication, two windows for day and month, all housed within a large and attractive 41mm case. The present timepiece with white “chin” dial has never before been offered at Christie’s.

A successor to the 5970, this model represents the latest in Patek Philippe’s perpetual chronograph evolution. One can say that due to the acclaimed all in-house calibre and distinguished dial that it is a true icon of modern Patek Philippe production. (Est. CHF 90,000 – 120,000)

Lot 278 – Patek Philippe Yellow Gold Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 3941

Reference 3941 is possibly the rarest variant of the yellow gold 3940 self-winding perpetual calendar wristwatch series. In fact, since the launch of this model family in 1985, only a handful have returned to the market. Since the glazed backs were not numbered, Patek Philippe chose instead to apply the case number inside the upper-case part, underneath the bezel.

Patek Philippe Yellow Gold Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 3941

Production of references 3940 and 3941 was launched in 1985, the difference between the two references numbers being their back: Ref. 3940: plain snap on the back; Ref. 3941: glazed snap on back. To respond to their customers increasing demand for two backs, Patek Philippe produced the model as of around 1988 with both the plain and the glazed snap on back. Consequently, production of reference 3941 was discontinued in 1990. (Est. CHF 26,000 – 50,000)

Christie’s Hong Kong Presents The Triazza Collection: An Unprecedented Collection of Exceptional, Rare and Important Patek Philippe Timepieces

Christie’s Hong Kong has announced the exhibition of The Triazza Collection – an unmatched collection of five exceptional, rare, and important Patek Philippe timepieces manufactured from 1924 to 1987, acquired by a prominent private Asian collector.

The non-selling exhibition will offer exceptionally rare and beautiful vintage timepieces by Patek Philippe, which encompass a possibly one and only large-size Geneva Observatory 1st Prize winning tourbillon ref. 2330 with both cases and both dials surviving intact, made in 1924; the Esmond Bradley Martin ref. 605 HU cloisonné dial ‘North America’ manufactured in 1950; one of only three Patek Philippe ref. 2523 in yellow gold known to exist with a cloisonné map dial depicting North America, manufactured in 1955; the only platinum ref. 2499/100 in private hands, formerly the property of Eric Clapton; as well as an 18k gold ref. 2499 with double-signed dial, retailed by Tiffany & Co., made in 1977.

The Triazza Collection

(1) Patek Philippe. A stainless steel open-face observatory tested pocket chronometer with tourbillon regulator, lever escapement, sector dial and additional gold case, enamel dial and hands, ref. 2330, manufactured in 1924.

Patek Philippe TRIAZZA COLLECTION pocket chronometer with tourbillon regulator reference 2330

This important and large-size Geneva Observatory 1st Prize winning tourbillon is not only in exceptional condition and one of the finest high-precision Patek Philippe watches, it is also possibly unique in retaining both its original gold case and white enamel Breguet numeral dial and, in addition, its original antimagnetic observatory contest case and original contest silver sector dial.

(2) Patek Philippe. An 18k gold openface world time keyless watch with cloisonné enamel dial depicting a map of North America, ref. 605, manufactured in 1950.

This exemplary example of Patek Philippe’s reference 605 HU (Heure Universelles) World Time dress watch with cloisonné enamel ‘North America’ dial is one of only a handful of these sublimely beautiful horological masterpieces known publicly.

Patek Philippe 18k gold openface world time keyless watch with cloisonné enamel dial depicting a map of North America, ref. 605

Furthermore, it has wonderful and impeccable provenance, its first owner was one of the great American watch collectors of the 20th century – Esmond Bradley Martin, who purchased this watch from Tiffany & Co. in New York in December 1957.

Patek Philippe 18k gold openface world time keyless watch with cloisonné enamel dial depicting a map of North America, ref. 605

Today, only around 12 surviving examples of reference 605 HU are known with cloisonné dials, however only four, including the present watch, are decorated with the map of North America.

(3) Patek Philippe. An 18k gold two crown world time wristwatch with 24 hour indication and cloisonné enamel dial depicting a map of North America, ref. 2523, manufactured in 1955.

This imposing watch is one of only three Patek Philippe reference 2523 in yellow gold known to exist with a cloisonné map dial depicting North America. Part of a highly important private collection, its exclusivity and desirability is further enhanced by its spectacular overall condition.

Patek Philippe 18k gold two crown world time wristwatch with 24 hour indication and cloisonné enamel dial depicting a map of North America, ref. 2523

The cloisonné dial two-crown reference 2523 is one of the ultimate world-class rarities, sitting alongside the other Patek Philippe wristwatch legends such as the steel reference 1518 and the first series 2499. Combining the highest degree of rarity with the beauty and permanence of grand feu enamel artistry and the confident simplicity of 1950s design, the present reference 2523 cloisonné ‘North America’ world time watch is one of these elusive masterworks from the ‘golden age’ of Patek Philippe wristwatches.

Patek Philippe 18k gold two crown world time wristwatch with 24 hour indication and cloisonné enamel dial depicting a map of North America, ref. 2523

The reference 2523 was made in very small numbers, a total of only 26 examples were ever made in either yellow or pink gold and one example in white gold

(4) Patek Philippe. A platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, ref. 2499/100, manufactured in 1987.

Patek Philippe platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, ref. 2499-100

A truly world-famous wristwatch of almost mythical status. Not seen in public for over 10 years as a highlight of a highly important private collection, it is the most important, beautiful and desirable reference 2499/100 in the world.

Patek Philippe platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, ref. 2499-100

Formerly the property of Eric Clapton, it is the only platinum reference 2499/100 in private hands, only two were ever made, the other was never sold and is today in the collection of the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva.

(5) Patek Philippe. An 18k gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, retailed by Tiffany & Co., ref. 2499, manufactured in 1977.

Patek Philippe 18k gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, retailed by Tiffany & Co., ref. 249

The reference 2499 is regarded as one of the ‘must have’ wristwatch models for collectors of Patek Philippe’s vintage complicated watches. The present watch offers an added layer of exclusivity with its double-signed dial, retailed by Tiffany & Co.

Patek Philippe 18k gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, retailed by Tiffany & Co., ref. 249 -2

It is thought that only around 6 examples of the third series reference 2499 were ever double signed by Tiffany & Co. Over a period of 35 years, the 2499 was made in four separate series in a total production of only 349 pieces, the majority cased in yellow gold.

Exhibition details

  • Public Preview (by appointment – infoasia@christies.com)
  • Hong Kong | 17 – 20 November | 22/F, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central
  • Hong Kong | 25 November – 3 December | Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, No.1 Harbour Road, Wanchai

For more details visit: http://www.christies.com/triazza

Christie’s Geneva to auction the first example of Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 Two Crown World Time

Patek Philippe At the Rare Watches Autumn auction on 8 November this year, Christie’s Geneva will be offering the first example of “L’Heure d’Or”, Patek Philippe’s Ref. 2523 two crown world time.

This extremely fine and highly important Patek Philippe is the first example of a 18k gold two crown world-time wristwatch with 24 hours indication and first time seen waved guilloché gold centre (outer silvered revolving ring with names of 41 world cities adjusted by the crown at 9).

Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 Two Crown World Time
Image Credit: Christie’s

This is the very earliest specimen of the Patek Philippe’s Ref. 2523 two crown world time wristwatch ever made. Furthermore, the beautiful gold guilloche dial is not known on any other yellow gold example of the reference.

Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 Two Crown World Time
Image Credit: Christie’s

Never before seen at auction, the present watch can be considered an exemplar of Patek Philippe’s 1950s ‘golden age, when design, craftsmanship and technological advancement coincided to create perfection. Being the earliest reference 2523 to be manufactured, this historic watch has an immense status even amongst the ultra-rare two crown world time model and can be considered as the cornerstone watch of the entire reference.

Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 Two Crown World Time 3
Image Credit: Christie’s

Patek Philippe’s two-crown reference 2523 is one of the ultimate world-class rarities, sitting alongside the other Patek Philippe wristwatch legends such as the steel reference 1518 and the first series 2499. Reinforcing its importance is the fact that it was made in extremely small numbers, a total of only 26 examples were made in either yellow or pink gold and one example in white gold.

Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 Two Crown World Time 3
Image Credit: Christie’s

Until the discovery of the present watch, the earliest known case number was 306’193. The present watch with case number 305’699 is also fitted with the earliest movement number 720’300. Whilst undoubtedly the first ever production watch of reference 2523, it was perhaps also the last ‘prototype’ piece for the final design.

  • Signed Patek Philippe, Genève, Ref. 2523, movement no. 720’300, case no. 305’699, manufactured in 1953.
  • Estimate: CHF 1,000,000 to 3,000,000.

Christie’s Hong Kong Important Watches Autumn Auction 27 November – Highlights

Two historical rarities will be offered in Christie’s Hong Kong Important Watches auction on 27 November: an extremely historically important Patek Philippe split-second chronograph Ref. 1436 in 18K yellow gold from 1946, ordered by and sold to Henry Graves Jr. alongside a 18k gold and enamel, pearl-set musical, perfume flask and automaton amphora-form watch attributed to Piguet & Capt, a magnificent piece presented for the first time at auction.

Patek Philippe Split-Second Chronograph Ref. 1436 in 18K Yellow Gold

Henry Graves Jr., the legendary patron of Patek Philippe, ordered this 18k gold split second chronograph wristwatch with Breguet numerals in 1946 and acquired it in 1947.

Ref.1436 is Patek Philippe’s first split seconds chronograph wristwatch produced in series. The first generation, of which this watch is a part, was made until the late 1940s. Since its introduction to the market in 1938 and discontinued in 1971, only 140 examples are made during the 33 years production period.

Patek Philippe Split-Second Chronograph Ref. 1436 in 18K Yellow Gold

As one of the finest examples to ever appear on the market, the present example features applied gold Breguet numerals, often considered the most attractive dial variation. It is also thought to be the least-commonly made dial for this reference, with most examples featuring baton or a combination of baton and Arabic numerals.

To date, just over a dozen of Ref. 1436 models have surfaced featuring such a dial. This extremely rare and historical timepiece is a true rarity as it last appeared at auction about ten years ago.

Estimate: HK$11,500,000-23,500,000/ US$ 1,500,000-3,000,000

Piguet & Capt. Amphora Form Watch

Attributed to Piguet & Capt., this 18k gold and enamel, pearl-set musical, perfume flask and automaton amphora-form watch is believed to be made for the Chinese imperial family, in circa 1805. It is known that its twin is stored and exhibited in the Patek Philippe museum.

Piguet & Capt. Amphora Form Watch

The last amphora-form watch seen at auction was May 2021 at Christie’s Hong Kong ; attributed to Jean-François-Adam Hess, it was sold for HK$ 12,250,000/ US$ 1,584,735.

Estimate: HK$ 2,400,000-7,200,000/ US$ 300,000-900,000

Christie’s Watches Online: The Dubai Edit, 13 – 27 October 2021 – Highlights

The upcoming Christie’s Watches Online: The Dubai Edit auction will offer 211 exceptional lots including the Patek Philippe Ref. 5102G ‘Celestial, the Richard Mille RM 011 Felipe Massa Titanium UAE Edition Flyback Chronograph, and the Pink Gold Rolex Ref. 6232 Chronograph.

Auction Highlights

Lot 5: Patek Philippe Ref. 5102G Celestial, Circa 2008

Launched in 2002, the Ref. 5102G Celestial white gold astronomical wristwatch borrows the principle of the celestial canopy from the most complicated wristwatch ever produced by Patek Philippe – the Ref. 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon.

Lot 5: PATEK PHILIPPE, CELESTIAL REF. 5102G-001, A RARE GOLD AUTOMATIC ASTRONOMICAL WATCH
Lot 5: PATEK PHILIPPE, CELESTIAL REF. 5102G-001, A RARE GOLD AUTOMATIC ASTRONOMICAL WATCH – Image Credit: Christie’s

The nocturnal sky of the northern hemisphere rotates to show the apparent angular motion of the stars and moon as well as the progression of the phases of the moon. A delicate elliptical contour on the inside of the glass frames the portion of the sky that can be seen from all cities on the same latitude as the city of Geneva. Estimate: US$ 200,000-300,000.

Lot 106: Patek Philippe Ref. 1518

The Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 gold perpetual calendar chronograph was the first perpetual chronograph to be made in series by any watch company. Ref. 1518 was not only a design first with its simple and pure layout but would set the mould for all future perpetual calendar chronographs.

Lot 106: PATEK PHILIPPE REF. 1518, GOLD PERPETUAL CALENDAR CHRONOGRAPH
Lot 106: PATEK PHILIPPE REF. 1518, GOLD PERPETUAL CALENDAR CHRONOGRAPH – Image Credit: Christie’s

Only 281 examples of this reference were ever made and this particular example comes in 18K yellow gold and was produced in 1945. Interestingly, it features the old Patek Philippe & Cie. full signature, which is highly sought after by collectors, and exists only on timepieces produced before 1947. Estimate: US$ 350,000-450,000.

Lot 110: Patek Philippe Reference 3979, circa 1991

The reference 3979 was introduced as part of a celebratory timepiece series marking the 150th anniversary of the manufacture. The ref. 3979 was produced between 1989 and 2002 and it is believed that about 100 pieces were made with the majority in yellow gold.

Lot 110: PATEK PHILIPPE, REF. 3979J, A GOLD MINUTE REPEATER WRISTWATCH
Lot 110: PATEK PHILIPPE, REF. 3979J, A GOLD MINUTE REPEATER WRISTWATCH – Image Credit: Christie’s

The initial batch of watches featured a case made by the legendary casemaker Jean-Pierre Hagmann and his initials JPH are stamped on the inside case back. Estimate: US$ 220,000-300,000.

Lot 111: Patek Philippe Ref. 5013P, circa 2010

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5013P is a platinum minute repeater perpetual calendar watch with a retrograde indication. It is among the most complex wristwatches ever made by the Geneva ‘Maison’ and the first automatic minute repeater perpetual calendar with retrograde date function.

Lot 111: PATEK PHILIPPE REF. 5013P, A PLATINUM TONNEAU MINUTE REPEATER WITH RETROGRADE PERPETUAL CALENDAR
Lot 111: PATEK PHILIPPE REF. 5013P, A PLATINUM TONNEAU MINUTE REPEATER WITH RETROGRADE PERPETUAL CALENDAR – Image Credit: Christie’s

The watch’s design was a nod to the historically important tonneau-shaped yellow gold minute repeating wristwatch no. 97589 made for Henry Graves, Jr. The reference 5013 was launched in 1992 and remained in production until 2011. The platinum examples were initially produced only with silver dials and over the years only a few examples with a black dial have appeared on the market. Estimate: US$ 300,000-400,000.

Lot 11: Rolex Daytona Ref. 6240 ‘Solo’, circa 1966

The Rolex Daytona Ref. 6240 ‘Solo’ is one of the rarest vintage Daytona references. ‘Solo’ refers to the fact that the dial only carries the mark ‘Rolex’ and not the usual description ‘Oyster Chronograph’ seen on the other Ref. 6240 models.

Lot 11: ROLEX DAYTONA REF. 6240 ‘SOLO’, A STEEL MANUAL-WINDING CHRONOGRAPH
Lot 11: ROLEX DAYTONA REF. 6240 ‘SOLO’, A STEEL MANUAL-WINDING CHRONOGRAPH – Image Credit: Christie’s

The watch world speculates that only a small number of early Ref. 6240 models (between the serial number ranging from 1.2 million to 1.4 million) were fitted with this dial. The reference 6240 was the first waterproof Daytona and featured an acrylic bezel and screw-down chronograph pushers. Estimate: US$ 120,000-180,000.

Lot 82: Rolex Ref. 4062

The Rolex Ref. 4062, a yellow gold, anti-magnetic, manual-winding chronograph, is an elegant and sophisticated timepiece distinguished by its coin-edge case band.

Lot 82: ROLEX REF. 4062 YELLOW GOLD, ANTI-MAGNETIC, MANUAL-WINDING CHRONOGRAPH