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BREGUET WATCHES – Models with Technical Specifications, Price, Brand Details, History, News and Archives

Breguet Classique Phase de Lune 9085 Valentine’s Day Edition

Breguet celebrates this year’s Valentine’s Day with the new Classique Phase de Lune with a white mother-of-pearl dial sprinkled with rubies.

The mother-of-pearl dial of the Classique Phase de Lune 9085 Valentine’s Day watch is adorned with a very fine guilloché pattern, hand-crafted by the artisans of the Manufacture. Breguet numerals alternate with six rubies to display the passing of time on the dial, swept over by two traditional open-tipped blued steel hands.

The hand-hammered gold moon phase appears at 6 o’clock, surrounded by a midnight blue lacquered sky dotted with gold stars. The Breguet inscription appears in an oval cartouche at 12 o’clock. Finally, the 30 mm white gold case and lugs are set with 66 brilliant-cut diamonds.

The new Breguet Classique 9085BB is powered by Calibre 537L with its 231 components. Its gold oscillating weight is hand-engraved on a rose engine with a circular barleycorn pattern. Its balance oscillates at a frequency of 3.5 Hz.

The rhodium-plated self-winding movement has a 45-hour power reserve. It is equipped with an in-line Swiss lever escapement and a balance spring in silicon, a material endowed with numerous properties. In addition to being resistant to corrosion and wear, it is insensitive to the influence of magnetic fields and improves the accuracy of the timepiece.

The movement can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback, with decorations such as chamfering and a Côtes de Genève motif embellishing the various movement components.

The Breguet Classique Phase de Lune 9085 Valentine’s Day Edition comes with an interchangeable strap system. Designed for easy tool-free switching between straps, this mechanism is operated by simply pressing the pusher on the underside of the wristband.

The case is water-resistant to 3 bar (30 m). The watch comes in a presentation box containing both red and an additional pearly white strap that are easily interchangeable as the wearer desires.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Classique Phase de Lune 9085 Valentine’s Day Edition
Reference 9085BB/5R/964 DD00

Edition
28-piece numbered limited edition

Case
18K white gold, sapphire caseback, bezel and lugs set with 66 diamonds
Dimensions: 30 mm
Thickness: 9.85 mm
Water resistance: 3 bar (30 m)

Dial
White mother-of-pearl dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine

Movement
Calibre 537L
Self-winding with gold oscillating weight
Escapement: in-line Swiss lever escapement, with escape-wheel and flat balance spring in silicon
Components: 231
Frequency: 3.5 Hz
Power reserve: 45 hours

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, moon phase

Strap
Red alligator leather as well as an additional strap in pearly white alligator leather. The two straps are fitted with pin buckles and supplied in the Valentine’s Day boxed set.

Breguet Classique 9075 Chinese New Year Edition

Celebrating Chinese New Year, the Year of the Rabbit, Swiss luxury watch brand Breguet presents a limited edition Classique watch for women. Limited to 8 pieces, this timepiece combines in-house artisanal techniques like the enamel and engraving expertise.

One of the Chinese zodiac signs, Rabbit is known for its playfulness and smartness. Breguet has drawn inspiration from the qualities of the rabbits and combined it with sophisticated enamel craftsmanship and hand-engraving techniques which bring to life this lively, free spirited creature in this Classique watch.

The dial depicts a dynamic scene in which 6 rabbits are playing around the greens against the backdrop of fluffy clouds.

All the patterns are hand-engraved on an 18-carat white gold dial. While the central motif is engraved below the surface of the enamel, rabbits are engraved on the enamel and outlined at a maximum height. The engraving of gold applied in watchmaking is a bas-relief technique consisting in sculpting patterns in the extremely small dimensions of a watch.

The Breguet Year of the Rabbit watch is driven by the hand-decorated self-winding 591C calibre. The movement is equipped with a silicon in-line Swiss lever escapement and a silicon flat balance spring. Equipped with 171 components, and beating at a frequency of 4 Hz, it offers a 38-hour power reserve.

The components of the caliber are all finished by hand, by the craftsmen of the Manufacture. Visible through the exhibition case-back, the movement’s gold oscillating weight spotlights the barleycorn pattern guilloche work.

The Breguet Classique 9075 Chinese New Year Edition has a 33.50 mm diameter case in 18K gold, with the bezel and horns adorned with 88 diamonds. Fitted on a sky blue alligator leather strap, it is water-resistant up to 3 bar (30m).

Technical details

Model: Breguet Classique 9075 Chinese New Year Edition
Reference 9075BB/25/976 DD00 04

Case
18K white gold, bezel and horns set with 88 diamonds
Diameter: 33.50 mm
Thickness: 7.85 mm
Water resistance: 3 bar (30 m)

Dial
“Grand feu” Enamel dial

Movement
Calibre 591C, Self-winding
Balance-spring: in silicon
Escapement: Swiss straight-line lever, silicon
Frequency: 4.0 Hz
Power reserve: 38 hours
Components: 171

Functions
Hours, minutes and seconds

Strap
Sky blue alligator leather strap

Edition
Limited Edition of 8 timepieces

Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838

Breguet expands its Reine de Naples collection by unveiling two new timepieces. Dedicated to women, both models showcase two styles but with one thing in common: the minutes hand that adopts a variety of shapes in the course of its path around the dial.

The Reine de Naples collection draws inspiration from the first-ever wristwatch, delivered in 1812 to Napoleon’s sister, the elegant Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples.

The flexible minutes hand gracing the dial of the two new Reine de Naples models is as admirable as it is intriguing. The magic of an ingenious mechanism enables it to change shape according to its position on the oblong dial.

This original mechanism protected by several patents was devised by Breguet. The variable-length minutes hand is composed of two arms linked at one end yet independent of each other. These arms change shape thanks to a clever set of gears.

The hand thus plays with the dial by appearing in different guises when it is stretched at 12 o’clock and then more rounded at 6 o’clock. Behind the device enabling this optical game is an oval cam reminiscent of the Reine de Naples’ characteristic curves. As the minutes go by, each arm operates at a different speed. The dimensions of the hand are constantly adapted in step with its path around the dial, thus perfectly following the shape of the watch.

The white gold case of the Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 watch elegantly contrasts with its midnight blue mother-of-pearl dial, whose subtle hues vary as the light plays over it. Its flange, bezel and lugs are set with 161 diamonds. Its crown bears a briolette-cut diamond, while its folding clasp is adorned with 28 diamonds.

Time is cleverly indicated by an aperture in the dial centre. The powdered silver-toned minutes numerals, featuring a font reminiscent of hand-drawn designs, are subtly offset. This version is available with an alligator leather strap matching the dial colour. The Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 is issued in a 20-piece limited edition.

The white gold case of the Breguet Reine de Naples 9838 watch features a bezel, flange and crown set with blue sapphires. Its white lacquered dial makes a striking contrast with its midnight blue alligator strap.  The various dial elements of this watch seem to be dancing, notably the offset Arabic numerals that appear to stretch and shorten alternately, as does the path of the minutes hand.

Inside the 36.5 x 28.45 mm oval case, 252 components drive the 78A0 self-winding movement with an oscillation frequency of 3.5 Hz. This movement is equipped with a balance spring as well as an in-line Swiss lever escapement that are both made of silicon, a material endowed with multiple properties.

In addition to being resistant to corrosion and wear, it is insensitive to the influence of magnetic fields and enhances the precision of the timepiece. The gear trains of this complication, like all components of the calibre whether visible or invisible, are carefully finished by hand in keeping with the Breguet tradition.

The sapphire back of the white gold case reveals the movement’s platinum oscillating weight as well as the Côtes de Genève motif and bevelling. The gold rim is engraved with the individual watch number recorded in the Breguet archives that have been faithfully kept since the end of the 18th century.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Reine de Naples 9835, Reference 9835BB/5Y/964 DD0D

Edition
20-piece limited edition

Case
18K white gold, sapphire caseback, bezel, flange and lugs set with 161 diamonds, crown set with a diamond
Dimensions: 36.5 mm X 28.45 mm
Thickness: 11 mm
Water resistance: 3 bar (30 m)

Dial
Blue mother-of-pearl
Hands: variable-length hand indicating the minutes and disc displaying the hours through an aperture

Movement
Calibre 78A0
Self-winding movement with platinum oscillating weight
Escapement: in-line Swiss lever escapement, with escape-wheel and flat balance spring in silicon
Frequency: 3.5 Hz
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap
Blue alligator leather, folding clasp set with 28 diamonds

Model: Breguet Reine de Naples 9838, Reference 9838BB/B8/364 S00S

Case
18K white gold case, fluted caseband, bezel, flange and crown set with blue sapphires
Dimensions: 36.5 mm X 28.45 mm
Thickness: 11 mm
Water resistance: 3 bar (30 m)

Dial
White lacquered
Hands: variable-length hand indicating the minutes and disc displaying the hours through an aperture

Movement
Calibre 78A0
Self-winding movement with platinum oscillating weight
Escapement: in-line Swiss lever escapement, escape-wheel and flat balance spring in silicon
Frequency: 3.5 Hz
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap
Blue alligator leather, folding clasp set with 28 blue sapphires

Breguet Classique 7337 Calendar

The new Classique 7337 Calendar is an elegant, subtle and pure interpretation of Breguet’s Classic watch.

Available in white and rose gold case versions, this new timepiece spotlights the iconic Swiss brand’s various decorative skills. Its off-centred dial is adorned with a very fine Clous de Paris hobnail guilloché pattern hand-engraved on a rose engine by the in-house artisans.

The outer dial of this 39 mm watch features a circular barleycorn motif. The moon phase complication at 12 o’clock provides a realistic display. The gold moon is hand-hammered and the clouds surrounding it have been given a fine sandblasted treatment with a matt texture.

Its sky is coated with a blue lacquer composed of spangles subtly revealing the stars depending on the angle from which the timepiece is viewed.

The hours, minutes and seconds are indicated by the traditional blued steel open-tipped Breguet hands. The date and day are respectively placed at 2 and 10 o’clock. The windows feature a broad aperture for enhanced readability.

The new Classique 7337 Calendar is equipped with the Calibre 502, which is one of Breguet’s thinnest movements at just 2.4 mm thick.

Its barrel is open in order to enhance this slim aesthetic while guaranteeing constant energy and performance. Its oscillating weight is off-centred to provide maximum space for the main movement elements and is thus integrated within a minimum thickness.

This rhodium-plated self-winding movement consists of 236 components. It is equipped with a silicon balance-spring as well as an escapement featuring an inverted straight-line pallet-lever with silicon horns.

This movement can be admired through the sapphire caseback. While the white gold oscillating weight is hand-engraved on a rose engine with a circular barleycorn pattern, the other components are graced with chamfered finishes and a Côtes de Genève motif. The balance oscillates at a frequency of 3 Hz. The movement has a 45-hour power reserve.

This new timepiece is fitted with a strap in midnight blue for the white gold model and a mysterious brown for the rose gold version.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Classique Calendrier 7337

Case
18K white gold or rose gold
Diameter: 39 mm
Thickness: 9.95 mm

Dial
In gold, hand-engraved on a rose engine

Movement
Self-winding
Balance-spring: flat, in silicon
Escapement: inverted straight-line lever
Water resistance: 3 bar (30 m)
Calibre: 502.3 QSE1
Frequency: 3 Hz
Power reserve: 45 hours
Components: 236

Functions
Moon phase, day, date, off-centred chapter ring, small seconds

Strap
Midnight blue alligator leather strap for the white gold version, mysterious brown alligator leather for the rose gold model

Breguet Tradition Tourbillon 7047 Platinum

On 26th June 1801, Abraham-Louis Breguet filed a patent for the creation of the first tourbillon. To mark this date, Swiss luxury watch brand Breguet unveils a special timepiece from the Tradition collection.

Tourbillon is one of the most greatly appreciated horological mechanisms as it reveals the heart of the watch. The new Breguet Tradition Tourbillon 7047 watch in platinum houses the fusée-chain tourbillon transmission mechanism for optimising the regularity of the watch’s operation by guaranteeing its constant torque, whatever its winding level is.

When the barrel is fully wound, it delivers its maximum force. The chain then acts on the top of the fusée and therefore on its smallest circumference. As the chain unwinds, its torque decreases yet acts in parallel on the widest part of the fusée – its base – thus ensuring the constant force of the energy is delivered.

The fusée-chain tourbillon mechanism appears sprinkled with touches of blue. Various treatments have been used on all the components in order to achieve visual uniformity: the tourbillon carriage and the dial are covered with blue coatings, while the chain links are thermally blued. This new feature reflects the aesthetics of the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 launched in May and elegantly plays with blue and slate grey contrasts.

The new Tourbillon 7047 boasts the “Clous de Paris” guilloché pattern on its off-centre gold dial, the traditional Roman numerals and the open-tipped hands. Like the watches that inspired it, its dial is secured by three screws.

This 41 mm platinum watch houses the Calibre 569, a rhodium-plated hand-wound movement housing 542 components. It is equipped with an inverted in-line lever escapement featuring horns made of silicon, as too is the Breguet balance-spring.

The balance of the Tradition Tourbillon 7047 oscillates at a frequency of 2.5 Hz. This movement provides a 50-hour power reserve.

The new Tradition Tourbillon 7047 watch is fitted with a midnight blue alligator leather strap secured by a triple-blade platinum folding clasp.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Tradition Tourbillon 7047 Platinum

Case
Platinum
Diameter: 41 mm
Thickness: 16 mm
Water resistance: 3 bar (30 m)

Dial
Off-centred blue dial in hand-guilloché gold

Movement
Calibre 569
Hand-wound
Balance-spring: Breguet type, in silicon
Carriage: Titanium
Frequency: 2.5 Hz
Power reserve: 50 hours
Components: 542

Functions
Hours, minutes, fusée tourbillon

Strap
Midnight blue alligator leather

Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde

Breguet has unveiled a new Tradition Quantième Rétrograde model that displays a strong contrast between the monochrome blue applied to the dial and the anthracite-clad movement.

The new Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 timepiece delves into the origins of the prestigious luxury watch company. From the shape of the bridges to the pare-chute shock-absorber system, as well as the size of the balance and the wheels, all the components are implicitly inspired by the “souscription” and tact watches created by Abraham-Louis Breguet. This new variant is therefore a real eye-catcher with its symmetrical calibre architecture.

The gold dial features a hand-guilloché “Clous de Paris” motif, traditional Roman numerals and open-tipped hands. As found on the watches that inspired it, the dial is secured by three screws.

The Breguet 7597 model also features a retrograde date, a function cherished by the brand whose founder was one of the first watchmakers to develop a timepiece equipped with this complication.

To ensure a smooth sweep over the mechanism, the distance between the centre and the date sector required the development of a multi-level blued steel hand.

In addition, to improve the legibility of the date indication, its sector spreads out over 180 degrees and is covered with a blue coating echoing the shade of the dial. The numerals alternate between silver-toned powdered transfers and gold cabochons.

When setting the date, the wearer simply unscrews the pusher at 10 o’clock and then presses the hand successively until the desired date is reached. Finally, the mainplate and bridges are adorned with an anthracite coating endowing this timepiece with strong visual intensity.

The 40 mm white gold case houses the 505Q self-winding movement. This movement is equipped with an inverted lever escapement and silicon horns. This material is also used to produce the Breguet balance-spring.

Its multiple properties include resistance to corrosion and wear, insensitivity to the influence of magnetic fields as well as enhanced timekeeping precision. The balance of the new Tradition Quantième Rétrograde oscillates at a frequency of 3 Hz and has a 50-hour power reserve. The 269-part movement is 8.7 mm thick.

The sapphire caseback reveals the gold oscillating weight, whose shape refers to the one on the perpétuelle watch created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1780.

The new Tradition 7597 is worn on a midnight blue alligator strap secured by a gold pin buckle.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597

Case
White gold case
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 12.10 mm
Sapphire crystal caseback
Water resistance: 3 bar (30 m)

Dial
Off-centred, blue and made of gold hand-engraved on a rose engine

Movement
Self-winding Calibre 505Q
Frequency: 3 Hz
Power reserve: 50 hours
Components: 269
Balance-spring: Breguet type, in silicon

Functions
Hours, minutes, retrograde date

Strap
Midnight blue alligator leather

Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5557

Breguet has launched a new interpretation of its iconic Hora Mundi watch within the Marine collection.

The Hora Mundi is a ground-breaking mechanical watch with an instant-change dual-time display with memory function. This technical feat is accomplished via the pusher and crown. Having selected the first cities time and date, the owner of the watch need only set the second city. The watch mechanism then calculates the time and date by means of a clever system of cams, hammers and an integrated differential.

At that point, simply pressing the pusher is enough to travel from one end of the planet to the other, all without disturbing the accurate running of the watch.

The dial offers a fascinating interpretation of the world on the wrist by a play on materials and superimposed plates. On the first gold base, the hand-guilloché waves lap gently against the shores of the continents. The sunburst dial base attired in abyssal blue creates the impression of a permanent waltz of the wave motifs.

This effect may also be due to the way in which the continents are depicted: an additional plate made of sapphire is composed of the metallised meridians and the continents are treated to horizontal satin brushing, while their coastlines are subtly outlined with a metallic turquoise border. Finally, an outer flange serves as a support for the various elements present on the dial. The result features brilliantly crafted dimensions and surfaces thanks to various treatments requiring several weeks of work.

The dial remains exceptionally legible while endowing each indication with a special aesthetic. The hours and minutes hands as well as the hour-markers are adorned with luminescent material ensuring night-time legibility. The Sun and Moon positioned at 4 o’clock are hand-hammered to create a strongly realistic result.

While the sun is a luminous rose gold, the moon is rhodium-plated and exudes a mysterious grey appearance. Displayed through a 12 o’clock aperture, the date features an additional retrograde hand ingeniously placed beneath the aperture dial and featuring a delicately rounded “U-shaped” tip serving to encircle the date of each passing day.

The subtle finish referred to as brouillage is an ancient watchmaking decoration that has been updated and creates a matt yet shiny effect. It also facilitates reading while remaining discreet.

The cities corresponding to the different time zones are indicated at 6 o’clock. A metallised anchor appearing above the window serves to determine the place whose current time you wish to consult.

Made of white or rose gold, the 43.9 mm diameter case houses the Calibre 77F1. Its balance oscillates at a frequency of 4 Hz. This mechanical self-winding movement is fitted with an escapement made of silicon – a material with multiple properties that is resistant to both corrosion and wear. It is also insensitive to the effects of magnetic fields.

Calibre 77F1 features a unique asset in the form of its patented additional modules for the dual time-zone mechanism, the second time-zone display, the programmable and reprogrammable mechanical memory wheel and the pointer-type day/night display. It provides a power reserve of 55 hours.

Elegantly adorned with Côtes de Genève, guilloché and snailed finishing, this movement can be admired through the sapphire caseback.

The new Marine Hora Mundi is available with a leather strap, a rubber strap or a gold bracelet.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5557

Case
White gold or rose gold
Diameter: 43.9 mm
Thickness: 13.80 mm
Water resistance: 10 bar (100 m)

Dial
Sunburst blue, guilloché and sapphire plates

Functions
Hours, minutes and seconds, calendar, dual time zone, day/night indicator

Movement
Calibre: 77F1
Self-winding
Frequency: 4 Hz
Power reserve: 55 hours
Components: 384
Escapement: inverted lateral lever escapement with silicon horns, escape-wheel and flat balance-spring.

Strap/Bracelet
Leather strap, rubber strap and gold bracelet
Triple-blade folding clasp

Breguet 8905 – Reine de Naples Limited Edition

For this year’s Valentine’s Day, Breguet presents a limited edition Reine de Naples. The white mother-of-pearl dial was specially chosen for its appearance featuring fluffy “clouds” that appear to float between the moon-phase display and the hours, minutes and seconds subdials. This model is issued in a 28-piece limited edition.

An emblem of feminine watchmaking, the Reine de Naples collection draws its inspiration from the first wristwatch in history, delivered in 1812 to Napoleon’s sister, the elegant Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples. Today, this timepiece that originally featured an oblong shape and has now turned oval, is an undisputedly iconic women’s watch. Each model in the contemporary collection, whether gem-set, beaded or lacquered, is an ode to femininity.

The dial is adorned with an airy sky whose white mother-of-pearl shimmer is sprinkled with “clouds”. At 12 o’clock, the trail of love appears in red to indicate the 45-hour power reserve. As if suspended from the clouds, the finely hammered moon-phase display is composed of white gold.

Located in the lower part of the dial, the chapter ring is set with hand-guilloché natural white mother-of-pearl, as is the centre of the small seconds display. The Breguet open-tipped blued steel hands indicate the hours and minutes. Each second is priceless in the realm of love, which is why they are marked by a red-lacquered double heart. To complete these poetic touches, the white gold bezel and case flange are sprinkled with a sparkling shower of 128 diamonds.

A symbol of passionate love, red also appears on the crown, which is set with a ruby. This white gold timepiece elegantly plays with the immaculate contrasts of the sky and the touches of garnet, expressing the fire of love. To finish off in style, its blazing red alligator leather strap is fitted with a white gold triple-blade folding clasp set with 28 diamonds.

Abraham-Louis Breguet set himself the high standards of offering watches combining aesthetics with high-level precision. This value remains a priority for the manufacture to this day, as demonstrated once again by this new creation. The movement at the heart of the new Reine de Naples 8905 is self-winding. It is equipped with a straight-line Swiss lever escapement and a silicon hairspring.

The 269-component movement beats at a frequency of 3.5 Hz while its platinum oscillating weight is entirely hand-guilloché and can be admired through the sapphire caseback, as can the movement finely decorated in keeping with the noblest principles of Haute Horlogerie. Finally, this elegant timepiece is water-resistant to 3 bar (30 metres).

Technical details

Model: 8905 – Reine de Naples – 8905BB/52/964DOOD
Edition 2022 limited to 28 pieces

Case
18-carat white gold, fluted caseband, bezel and flange set with 128 diamonds (approx. 0.45 ct), crown set with a ruby (approx 0.32 ct)
Dimensions: 36.5 X 28.45mm

Dial
Natural white mother-of-pearl, hand-guilloché
Hands: Blued steel open-tipped Breguet hands, red heart-shaped seconds hand

Movement
Self-winding with platinum oscillating weight
Escapement: Swiss straight-line lever escapement, escape-wheel and flat mainspring in silicon
Water resistance: 3 bar (30 m)
Calibre: 537DRL2, 8 ¾´´´
Frequency: 3.5 Hz
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap
Leather with white gold triple-blade folding clasp set with 28 diamonds (env. 0.16 ct.)

Breguet Classique 7145 Year of the Tiger Limited Edition

Breguet is celebrating the Year of the Tiger with an eight-piece limited edition watch from its Classique collection. According to the Chinese Zodiac calendar, the Tiger is the symbol of the New Year commencing from 01 Feb 2022.

To create the majestic tiger artwork on the watch dial, the Manufacture’s artisans have combined the art of guilloché with that of engraving (bas relief technique).

The dial also features the distinctive characteristics of the House, such as the engraved logo between 7 and 8 o’clock and the blued steel open-tipped Breguet hands that accompany the hours and minutes. The chapter ring is punctuated by discreet round gold hour-markers and the 40 mm case is crafted in 18-carat rose gold.

The Classique 7145 model combines traditional Haute Horlogerie refinement and aesthetic elegance. At its heart beats the hand-decorated ultra-thin self-winding 502.3 calibre.

Developed in the 1960s, it remains one of the thinnest self-winding movements in production at just 2.4 mm – a modest thickness made possible by the design featuring an open worked barrel and an off-centred oscillating weight. This unusual design makes it possible to perceive the mainspring which would otherwise be hidden. The movement is equipped with an inverted straight-line lever escapement with silicon horns and balance spring.

This 162-component movement beats at a frequency of 3 Hz and has a 45-hour power reserve. The sapphire crystal caseback reveals the gold oscillating weight, which is hand-guilloché with a circular barleycorn pattern.

This timepiece, produced in an eight-piece limited series numbered from 1/8 to 8/8, is fitted with an alligator leather strap secured by a pink gold pin buckle.

Technical details

Model: Breguet 7145 Classique Year of the Tiger
Reference: 7145BR/15/9WU 03

Case
18-carat rose gold, fluted caseband
Diameter: 40 mm
Water-resistance: 3 bar (30 m)

Dial
Hand-engraved and guilloché gold, hand-engraved separation contours coated with black galvanic treatment
Hands: Breguet blued steel

Movement
Self-winding, extra-thin (2.4 mm) movement
Escapement: with inverted straight-line lever. Pallet-lever horns and flat balance spring in silicon.
Calibre: 502.3, 12 lignes
Frequency: 3.0 Hz
Power reserve: 45 hours
Components: 162

Strap
Leather strap with rose gold pin buckle

Edition
Limited numbered edition of 8 pieces

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Anniversaire 5365 Limited Edition

Swiss luxury watch brand Breguet commemorates the 220th anniversary of tourbillon by launching a special edition Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat watch.

On June 26, 1801, or on “7 Messidor An IX”, to use the French Republican calendar in force at the time, Abraham-Louis Breguet secured a patent in Paris for his “watch compensating for all of the inequalities that may be found in the balance wheel and mainspring”. Breguet named his invention the “tourbillon” (or “whirlwind”) in line with the common practice at the time to use terms connected to astronomy.

Exactly 220 years later, the House of Breguet is paying homage to its founder’s invention, which opened up a new world of precision, stability, and elegance in fine horology.

The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Anniversaire 5365 watch – with its limited run of 35 pieces, the same number of tourbillon watches made during Abraham-Louis Breguet’s lifetime – is a heartfelt tribute to the timeless aesthetic and visionary genius of the master watchmaker. In its attempts at authenticity, Breguet’s design for this timepiece is elegant and understated, reaffirming the brand’s standards put in place by its founder.

The same can also be said of the various engine-turned motifs adorning the gold dial. As well as becoming one of Breguet’s aesthetic hallmarks, engine-turning, also known as guillochage, possesses very specific watchmaking features. By offering surfaces with finely worked irregularities, the technique allows light to be captured in a variety of ways, ranging from the utmost clarity to a more matte finish. Light captured in this way enables the different reading zones on the dial to be clearly marked.

Engine-turned surfaces are also better protected from the ravages of time than a polished finish, which are overly shiny and prone to corrosion and scratches. Finally, engine-turned surfaces offer the relief needed in order to collect the micro-dust that could have degraded the chronometric performance of the first pocket watches more than two centuries ago.

The Clous de Paris pattern takes up the entire central part of the timepiece. Handmade with a diamond chisel, it is created by interlacing engraved and crossed lines with a pitch of only 0.25 millimeters. From a distance of 50 centimeters (the usual distance for reading a wristwatch), it gives the illusion of a matte finish.

This makes it easier to read the hours and minutes, indicated by the two central blued steel off-center open-tipped hands, now known as “Breguet hands.” On the periphery, the piece is decorated with a grain d’orge (or “barley grain”) motif that is cherished by the brand. On the rear of the piece, the platinum rotor is engine-turned with a wave motif.

For this anniversary piece, Breguet has fitted its reference 5365 with a 60-second tourbillon, visible between 4 and 6 o’clock, with one of these axes showing the seconds. More eagle-eyed horologists will notice two special features. Firstly, the piece’s upper bridge is made of blued steel, which is something of an unusual finish for a tourbillon in the Classique collection. Secondly, the cartouche affixed above the tourbillon, bears the text “Brevet No 157”, a reference to the patent number awarded to Abraham-Louis Breguet for his invention a mere 220 years ago.

This tribute is repeated on the rear of the piece, via the engraving “Anniversaire 1801–2021” on the barrel, and “Brevet No 157 Du 7 Messidor An IX” upon the lower bridge of the tourbillon, alongside the individual number of each piece.

All of these references, along with the Breguet signature on the rotor, are engraved by hand. To the right of the movement, there is a faithful reproduction of the original watercolor plate used by Abraham-Louis Breguet when filing his 1801 patent application for a tourbillon regulator.

The piece is housed in a 41-millimeter rose gold case.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Anniversaire 5365
Ref. 5365BR/15/9WU

Case
Case in rose gold with delicately fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Diameter: 41 mm
Welded lugs with screw bar
Water-resistant to 3 bar (30 meters)

Dial
18-karat engine-turned, silvered gold, produced in four parts and following two different themes: Clous de Paris and grain d’orge. Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Roman numerals
Open-tipped Breguet hands in blued steel
Special mention of “Brevet No 157” engraving above the tourbillon

Movement
Extra-flat self-winding movement with a blued steel tourbillon bridge
Small seconds on the tourbillon axis
Numbered and signed Breguet. Caliber 581
16 lignes. 33 jewels
80-hour power reserve
Barrel on ball-bearing rollers
Reverse-side lever escapement with silicon horns
Silicon balance spring
Frequency: 4 hertz
Adjusted in 6 positions

Strap
Leather strap with triple clasp buckle

Edition
Limited edition of 35 timepieces, numbered from 1/35 to 35/35

Breguet Tradition 7035

Breguet presents a new diamond-set version of its Tradition watch.

The spectacular mechanical timepieces from the Tradition line are contemporary interpretations of the subscription watches designed by Abraham-Louis Breguet, and particularly noted for the architecture of their fully symmetrical caliber. Now, Breguet completes its iconic line with a limited edition model adorned with diamonds.

Limited to 88 timepieces, the new Tradition 7035 by Breguet bears all the characteristics of the prestigious watch collection, including the offset dial, housed here at 12 o’clock. It boasts a natural white mother-of-pearl hours chapter, which affords a clear view of the fully exposed movement.

The movement is set around the central barrel, indicated by its rosette motif, by harmoniously placed traditional bridges, wheels, pare-chute, and balance wheel. Certifying its expertise in gem-set watches, Breguet combines this new creation with the finesse of jewellery, opting for the snow-setting technique.

The 18-carat gold chosen for the dial, plate and bridges are all set with different-sized diamonds in order to keep the visible material to a minimum. The bezel of the watch is set with 68 brilliant-cut diamonds.

For the retrograde seconds indicator, the Maison opted for a gradient of rubies and pink sapphires, which recall both the rubies on the movement and the one housed upon the crown. A leather strap in the same colours completes this new timepiece.

Equipped with the Caliber 505J, the Tradition 7035 timepiece features a lever escapement with silicon horns and a Breguet balance spring of the same material. Through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback, this self-winding calibre can be viewed. Its rotor in gold is adorned with the barrel motif.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Tradition 7035
Ref. 7035BR/D8/9V6 D00D

Case
18K rose gold with delicately fluted caseband
Bezel set with 68 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.819 ct)
Crown set with a ruby (approx. 0.16 ct)
Sapphire-crystal caseback
37 mm diameter
Welded lugs with screw bars
Water-resistant to 3 bar (30 m)

Dial
Gold dial paved with 74 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.192 ct) offset at 12 o’clock and white mother-of-pearl hours chapter
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Open-tipped Breguet hands in 18k rose gold

Movement
Mechanical self-winding movement, Cal. 505J
Numbered and signed Breguet
Gold plate and bridge paved with 190 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.456 ct)
Retrograde second featuring indicator set with 2 rubies and 7 pink sapphires (approx. 0.03 ct) on the movement face
141/2 lignes
38 jewels
50-hour power reserve
Inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns
Breguet balance spring in silicon
Balance frequency 3 Hz
Adjusted in 6 positions

Strap
Leather strap with 18 ct rose gold pin buckle set with 25 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.124 ct)

Edition
Limited edition of 88 timepieces, numbered from 1/88 to 88/88

Swiss luxury watch brand Breguet announces the appointment of its new CEO

Breguet has announced the appointment of Lionel a Marca as its CEO.

Lionel a Marca joined the Swatch Group almost 30 years ago and has been working at the Maison since 2019. His commitment and impressive skills across all areas of watchmaking saw him appointed to the Executive Boards of Blancpain in 2004 and Harry Winston in 2014. In 2019, he also joined the Extended Executive Board of the Swatch Group.

Recently, Lionel a Marca has taken over the role of CEO of Breguet from Mark A. Hayek, who will continue as the president of Montres Breguet SA. Now, Mr a Marca is placing all of his fine horology passion and experience at the service of Breguet.

Lionel a Marca, CEO of Montres Breguet SA

Lionel a Marca is a watchmaker through and through. Born in Porrentruy (Switzerland) in 1967, it was only natural that he should turn to watchmaking.

Following a watchmaking and repair apprenticeship and several years gaining experience, he joined the Swatch Group in 1992, at Frédéric Piguet located in the Vallée de Joux. It was here that he familiarized himself with the constraints of production. His career path subsequently took him to the ETA Manufacture Horlogère, where he helped develop and improve several watchmaking complications.

He went on to assume new roles within the Swatch Group. He worked as a consultant for different companies within the Group, namely in the areas of quality control and implementing new production lines.

It was during one such task that he crossed paths with Marc A. Hayek, the current President of Breguet and Blancpain, where he has remained to this day.

For nearly 20 years, Mr a Marca has contributed to the success of the brand located in Le Brassus, alongside its President and CEO, Marc A. Hayek. Indeed, he has implemented Hayek’s visionary ideas of creating new products. With this experience under his belt, in 2019, he joined the Extended Executive Board of the Swatch Group, which is in charge of the House of Breguet and companies that produce dials.

If today Lionel a Marca is one of the rare watchmakers at the helm of a renowned watch brand, then he will undoubtedly be able to steer Breguet towards the brightest of futures on the eve of its 250th anniversary. He will do so while respecting the watchmaking heritage and visionary spirit of both the Maison’s founder and the Hayek family, especially that of Nicolas G. Hayek and Marc A. Hayek who preceded him in this role.

Breguet Reine De Naples 8938

The Reine de Naples 8938 watch by Breguet highlights a tantalizing snow setting on the dial. This new feminine wristwatch is available in white gold with a blue bracelet and in rose gold with an orange bracelet.

Breguet rounds off the Reine de Naples 8938 dial with an off-center, natural white mother-of-pearl hours chapter at 6 o’clock. Breguet’s traditional numerals as well as its timeless moon-tipped hands dance upon the dial.

The setting continues on the dial flange, the bezel, and the brilliant-cut diamond lug. It can also be seen on the rare and sophisticated cutting of the crown’s briolette-cut diamond.

The Reine de Naples 8938 houses a self-winding mechanical movement with silicon balance spring and finely engine-turned platinum rotor. The movement is visible through the transparent sapphire glass on the case-back.  Its Escapement wheel and in-line Swiss lever are also made of silicon. The Cal. 537/3 has a power reserve of 45 hours.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Reine De Naples 8938
REF. 8938BB/8D/964 DD0D

Case
Oval case in 18k white gold with delicately fluted caseband
Bezel, dial flange and lug set with 161 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 1.82 ct)
Crown set with a briolette diamond (approx. 0.26 ct)
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Dimensions 36.5 x 28.45mm
Water-resistant to 3 bar (30m)

Dial
Gold dial snow-set with 384 diamonds (approx. 0.89 ct)
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Off-centred chapter ring in white mother-of-pearl with Breguet numerals offset at 6 o’clock
Breguet open-tipped hands in blued steel

Movement
Self-winding movement, Cal. 537/3 with platinum oscillating weight
Numbered and signed Breguet
8 3/4 lignes
26 jewels
45-hour power reserve
Escapement wheel and in-line Swiss lever in silicon
Flat balance spring in silicon
Balance frequency: 3.5Hz
Adjusted in 6 positions

Strap
Blue leather bracelet with gold triple blade folding clasp set with 28 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.16 ct).

Other variants
Also available in rose gold with orange bracelet: Reference 8938BR/8D/964 DD0D

Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021 Chronograph

Breguet presents a faithful re-edition of its renowned pilot’s watch, produced as a one-of-a-kind piece for Only Watch 2021. Following on from the Type 20 military chronograph put up for sale at the 2019 auction, this new model pays tribute to the civilian editions of the Type XX chronograph from the 1950s and 1960s. It meticulously reproduces the visual and mechanical codes of this emblematic Breguet timepiece.

Its 38.30mm diameter case us as per the original, as well as atypical curvature of the horns embellished by a lateral bevel along with some generously-sized pushbuttons .Unlike its military versions, this unique piece comes equipped with a straight crown, as seen in the Type XX civilian-use models.

The bidirectional steel bezel has been given the same attention to precision on this piece, which comes fitted with a 12-hourscale, along with aluminous triangular marker that is strongly inspired by the first generation of civilian Type XX pieces.

This model is also notable for its rather specific dial, the bronze color is a nod to the extremely rare civilian and military models with dials colored in this way that were sold at the time. Following sustained exposure to sunlight or moonlight, black dials may acquire a bronze hue.

The Type XX Only Watch 2021chronograph features a small-seconds subdial at nine o’clock and a 30-minute totalizer at three o’clock with an increased diameter, luminous markers and the teardrop-shaped hand that differ from the original military versions.

This watch offers excellent readability in all conditions, while the shape of the hands leads them to be colloquially referred to as “syringes”. Both the hands and the large Arabic numerals are treated with Super-LumiNova®. The Breguet signature is visible at 12o’ clock, as one would expect on a civilian version.

The Type XX Only Watch 2021 comes equipped with a Valjoux 23513-line movement, directly derived from the Valjoux 22214 lines used by Breguet in the 1950s and early 1960s. This hand-wound column wheel chronograph movement has been restored and returned to service by the House of Breguet. In doing so, the Type XX Only Watch 2021 respects the historical functions and proportions of the pieces upon which it is based. Of course, this movement is fitted with the flyback function.

As with the original, the Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021 is fitted with a screwed steel caseback providing water resistance to 30 meters. It also features “Only Watch 2021 Pièce Unique” wording engraved on the case back.

This unique model features a calf skin leather strap with a steel pin buckle, and is presented in an airplane wing-shaped case.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Type XX ONLY WATCH 2021
Reference: 2065ST/Z5/398

Case
Round steel case
Solid caseback with engraving “Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021 Pièce Unique”
Diameter: 38.30 mm
Thickness: 13.90 mm
Bidirectional graduated rotating bezel with triangular markings for flight calculations
Rounded lugs
Flat crown
Water-resistant to 3 bar (30 meters)

Dial
Bronze colored, signed Breguet
Hours chapter with luminescent Arabic numerals
30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Central chronograph counter
Luminescent “syringe” type hands

Movement
Mechanical manually wound movement, column-wheel chronograph with flyback function
Numbered and signed Breguet. Cal. Valjoux 235
13 lignes
17 jewels
45-hour power reserve
183 components
In-line Swiss lever escapement
Annular balance wheel
Flat balance spring
Frequency: 3 hertz

Strap
Calfskin leather

Breguet Type XXI 3815 in Titanium

This new limited edition Breguet Type XXI 3815 chronograph model features a 42 millimeter case made of titanium, a metal known for its anti-corrosive properties and lightness on the wrist.

With its finely fluted case-band that makes it easy to grip, this new timepiece is sporty in style, and functions, reinforced by a water resistance to100 meters, a screw-down crown, and a finish that alternates polished and satin-finished surfaces. The bidirectional bezel, also made of titanium, is fitted with a contrasting black-lacquered 60-minute scale, enhancing the contemporary look of this edition.

The Type XXI 3815 chronograph has a deep-black dial with a sunburst finish, whose modern character and sporty spirit are accentuated by the use of vivid colors.

Available with green or orange numerals, markers and hands, all luminescent, this new dial also features a display with only two counters, with a 24-hour indicator and small seconds, placed at 3 and 9 o’clock, respectively. The minutes totaliser of the chronograph is positioned in the center, as is the seconds totaliser. A new precision minute track and a date at 6 o’clock complete this contemporary display.

The mechanical self-winding movement comes equipped with a flyback function. This calibre incorporates the latest technologies implemented by the House of Breguet, such as the silicon escapement and balance spring.

The sapphire crystal case back reveals the movement in all its details, as well as a gold rotor with a specific finish for this edition.

Featuring a calfskin leather strap with stitching that echoes the color of the markers and hands on the dial, rounded off with a new triple folding buckle for comfort and security on the wrist, the Type XXI 3815 chronograph is produced in a limited edition of 250 pieces per color.

Technical details

Model: BREGUET TYPE XXI 3815
REF. 3815TI/HO/3ZU

Case
Titanium with finely fluted caseband
Sapphire crystal case back
Diameter: 42 millimeters
Bidirectional rotating bezel, black-lacquered
Rounded lugs
Screw-down crown
Water-resistant to 10 bar(100meters)

Dial
Black sunburst, signed Breguet
Hours chapter with orange luminescent Arabic Breguet numerals
24-hour indicator at 3 o’clock
Date displayed in window at 6 o’clock
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Central minutes counter
Orange luminescent hands and markers

Movement
Self-winding chronograph and fly-back function
Numbered and signed Breguet
Caliber 584Q/A
13 1/2 lignes
323 components
26 jewels
48 hour power reserve
Reverse in-line Swiss lever escapement with silicon horns
Silicon balance spring
Hand-decorated gold rotor
Frequency: 4 hertz
Adjusted in 6 positions

Strap
Calfskin leather with triple folding buckle

Edition
Limited edition of 250 timepieces, numbered from 1/250 to 250/250

Variants
Also available with green numerals, hands, and markers in a limited edition of 250 numbered pieces: Reference 3815TI/HM/3ZU

BREGUET Marine Collection New Models

The House of Breguet is introducing new variations of its Marine 5517, 5527, and 5547 models this year.

The first one incorporates a pristine look with a three-hand display and a date indication. The 5527 model furthermore features a flyback chronograph function, with a large central hand indicating the measured time.

Three counters located between 3 and 9 o’clock display the timed minutes, the hours, and the small seconds. Reference 5547 includes an alarm function, and displays a second time zone. All three timepieces display the date in a separate window.

The new generation of the Marine line, launched in 2017, embodies sporting elegance, reinterpreting the aesthetic elements of Breguet in a contemporary style.

The three models presented feature an hours chapter with Roman numerals and luminescent dots, the famous moon-tipped Breguet hands in luminescent faceted gold, and a central hand with subtle marine detail. Breguet proposes several types of straps and bracelets for these creations: leather, rubber, and metal.

In presenting the first versions of the 5517, 5527, and 5547 models in 2018, Breguet also introduced a new material to the collection: titanium. Its remarkable properties make this material the ideal choice for the maritime-themed line. In addition to its resistance to salty air and corrosion – a major advantage in a marine environment – it is also light and robust.

BREGUET MARINE CHRONOGRAPHE 5527, Titanium version with Sunburst blue dial

Since 2019, the House of Breguet has also offered a titanium bracelet that emphasises the contemporary aspect. Breguet incorporates in its titanium Marine models a dial with a sunburst finish created by hand. Very fine lines extend from the frame containing the brand name to the edges of the dial. As a tribute to the spirit of the collection, these new timepieces are finished in blue tones, reminiscent of the sea.

BREGUET MARINE ALARME MUSICALE 5547, Titanium version with Sunburst blue dial

The variations in rose gold of the Marine models feature a type of guillochage specially designed for the collection that mirrors its original inspiration.

The gold dial, like a ship’s porthole revealing a glimpse of the sea in motion, incorporates a guillochage pattern in the form of waves. This piece of craftsmanship, which has always adorned Breguet timepieces, adds an extra touch of character to these watches, thanks to the expertise of the engine-turning artisans trained at the House of Breguet.

Breguet Marine 5517, 18-carat rose gold version with Slate gray engine-turned dial

Highlighting the different indications of the dial, and extremely complex in design, the guillochage is here presented in slate-gray tones, offering a stunning contrast with the depth of the rose gold.

BREGUET MARINE ALARME MUSICALE 5547, 18-carat rose gold with slate gray engine-turned dial

The calibers of these models are designed entirely in-house at Breguet, using the most advanced technologies and working with top specialists.

The three self-winding calibers are tested in six different positions. Silicon is used for the balance spring and in the escapement, a material with multiple qualities, including its resistance to magnetism. The three models also feature a gold rotor.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Marine 5517
REF. 5517BR/G3/5ZU

Case
18-carat rose gold with fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Diameter: 40 millimeters
Thickness: 11.50 millimeters
Water-resistant to 10 bar (100 meters)

Dial
Slate gray dial in gold, engine-turned
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Roman numerals and luminescent dots
Faceted Breguet moon-tipped hands in gold with luminescent material
Central second hand inspired by maritime codes
Date at 3 o’clock

Movement
Mechanical self-winding movement, caliber 777A
179 components
15 lignes
26 jewels
Numbered and signed Breguet
55-hour power reserve
Inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns
Frequency 4 hertz
Silicon balance spring

Strap
Rubber strap

Variants
Also available with a leather or a 18-carat rose gold bracelet: References 5517BR/G3/9ZU or 5517BR/G3/RZ0
Also available in titanium with sunburst blue dial in gold: Reference 5517TI/Y1/5ZU

Model: BREGUET MARINE CHRONOGRAPHE 5527
REF. 5527TI/Y1/TW0

Case
Titanium with fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Diameter: 42.3 millimeters
Thickness: 13.85 millimeters
Water-resistant to 10 bar (100 meters)

Dial
Sunburst blue dial in gold
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Roman numerals and luminescent dots
Minute counter at 3 o’clock, hours at 6 o’clock, and small seconds at 9 o’clock
Date window between 4 and 5 o’clock
Faceted Breguet moon-tipped hands in gold with luminescent material
Central chronograph hand inspired by maritime codes

Movement
Mechanical self-winding movement, caliber 582QA
346 components
13½ lignes
28 jewels
Numbered and signed Breguet
48-hour power reserve
Inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns
Frequency 4 hertz
Silicon balance spring

Strap
Bracelet in titanium

Variants
Also available with a leather or rubber bracelet: References 5527TI/Y1/9WV or 5527TI/Y1/5WV
Also available in 18-carat rose gold with slate gray dial in gold, engine-turned: Reference 5527BR/G3/RW0

Model: BREGUET MARINE ALARME MUSICALE 5547
REF. 5547TI/Y1/9ZU

Case
Titanium with fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Diameter: 40 millimeters
Thickness: 13.05 millimeters
Water-resistant to 5 bar (50 meters)

Dial
Sunburst blue dial in gold
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Roman numerals and luminescent dots
Alarm subdial at 3 o’clock and time-zone display at 9 o’clock
Alarm-activation window at 12 o’clock, and date window at 6 o’clock
Striking mechanism power reserve indicated between 9 and 12 o’clock
Faceted Breguet moon-tipped hands in gold with luminescent material
Central second hand inspired by maritime codes

Movement
Mechanical self-winding movement, caliber 519F/1
376 components
12 lignes
36 jewels
Numbered and signed Breguet
45-hour power reserve
Inverted silicon in-line lever escapement
Frequency 4 hertz
Silicon balance spring

Strap
Leather

Variants
Also available with a rubber or titanium bracelet: References 5574TI/Y1/5ZU or 5547TI/Y1/TZ0
Also available in 18-carat rose gold with slate gray dial in gold, engine-turned: Reference 5547BR/G3/9ZU

Breguet Reine De Naples Coeur Eternal Love Limited Edition

Exclusively for this year’s Valentine’s Day, Breguet created a new Reine de Naples watch endowed with a hand in the shape of a changing heart. This exclusive Coeur, or Heart edition, limited to 28 numbered pieces and accompanied by a matching clutch as its case, is reserved for a selection of Breguet boutiques.

The first wristwatch ever made, the model no. 2639 was a treasure trove of ingenuity right from its origins in 1810. Breguet was inspired by this innovative watch and by the client, Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, who commissioned it, for its iconic contemporary collection.

Today, for its new creation dedicated to women and to love, the House of Breguet has designed a new system protected by several patents. The magic of an innovative mechanism changes the heart shape of the minute hand – offcenter at 6 o’clock – depending on its position on the oval dial. Breguet, which has always developed special watches dedicated to women, is thus faithful to its history and its practice. For this new creation, its curves stretch as the hand moves across the top half of the dial, and become more rounded at the bottom.

A pared-down dial highlights the delicate elegance and great romanticism of this piece. Touches of vermilion red add to the intensity of the lines of the hours chapter, the leather strap, and the crown, which is adorned with a ruby. This luxurious and exclusive composition is brought to perfection with rose gold and diamonds.

This model, reserved for brand boutiques, is presented in an envelope clutch bag finished in grained calfskin leather and dyed vermilion red to match the strap of the Reine de Naples Coeur.

For the face of this new Reine de Naples, Breguet has opted for understated elegance. The heart-shaped minute hand moves over a sapphire-crystal dial, lacquered in white for a very soft and subtle translucent effect. Its tip, marked by a subtle red heart, indicates the minutes on the hours chapter, punctuated by tiny hearts every five minutes.

For better readability, something dear to Breguet, the quarter numerals are distinguished by their size and their outline, lacquered with vermilion. The hour, indicated by a drop of purple lacquer, appears in the center through a window. The rose gold of the dial flange and bezel is set with 128 diamonds. The setting of the folding buckle, also in gold, echoes the brilliance of the case, amounting to a total of approximately 0.94 carats.

The latest invention of the House of Breguet is a minute hand composed of two independent arms, capable of twisting thanks to an ingenious set of gears to create a heart that is extended at 12 o’clock and more rounded at 6 o’clock.

Equipped with an oval-shaped cam – mirroring the curves so characteristic of the Reine de Naples – the mechanism allows each of these arms to move at different speeds. This innovation, created exclusively for the Reine de Naples, is protected by four patents. The gears of this complication, like all the components of the caliber, are all carefully hand-finished in the Breguet tradition – whether visible or invisible to the eye.

The sapphire-crystal caseback of the rose gold case reveals the movement of the caliber, the 78A0. On the gold rim, the individual number of the watch is engraved, recorded in the archives of the House of Breguet, which have been maintained since the end of the eighteenth century.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Reine De Naples Coeur 9825
Ref. 9825BR/S8/964 D00D

Case
Oval case in 18-karat rose gold with delicately fluted caseband
Bezel and dial flange set with 128 diamonds weighing approximately 0.77 carats
Crown set with a cabochon-cut ruby (approx. 0.25 carats)
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Dimensions: 36.5 × 28.45 millimeters
Thickness: 10.96 millimeters
Water-resistant to 3 bar (30 meters)

Dial
Sapphire-crystal dial lacquered in white with Breguet Arabic numerals
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Indication of the hour in a window and of the minute by a heart-shaped hand of variable length

Movement
Mechanical self-winding movement
Caliber 78A0. 10 ¾ × 13 ½ lignes
33 jewels
40-hour power reserve
252 components
In-line Swiss lever escapement, silicon escape wheel and flat balance spring
Frequency 3.5 hertz
Breguet balance wheel

Strap
Red alligator leather strap with a triple folding buckle set with 28 diamonds weighing approximately 0.17 carats

Edition
Limited edition of 28 timepieces, numbered from 1/28 to 28/28, accompanied by a clutch serving as a case and crafted in red grained calfskin

Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge

The Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge model blends mechanical virtuosity with aesthetic mastery. Its highly visible movement reveals two tourbillons that set the whole plate in motion through a central differential. Each component is hand-finished, while the back of the movement is engraved with the “House on the Quai”, the Parisian building where Abraham-Louis Breguet fulfilled his life’s work.

The new Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge model houses a massive mechanical movement in the proportions of a watch. Working with very limited space, the Breguet Manufacture has built a complex and harmonious universe that seemingly defies the laws of physics.

Like a delicately chased sculpture, the entire exposed mechanism pivots around its axis at the rate of one full turn every 12 hours. It is propelled by two independent tourbillons, which each complete a full rotation per minute. In this way, the interconnected regulating organs perform a double revolution, simultaneously driving the tourbillon bar: the signature hours hand.

It is a remarkable display, featuring a number of components made of gold, as were those of grand complication movements back in their day – a tradition that has now been all but lost; one that the House of Breguet endeavors to perpetuate, as it does its specialist artisan techniques. This watch is a stunning display of Breguet’s expert craftsmanship – in particular the engraving on the back, which depicts the house that Abraham-Louis Breguet acquired on Quai de l’Horloge in Paris.

 

Indeed, it was at this inspiring address, nestled between the artisans of the Ile de la Cité, that the master watchmaker invented the mechanism that would become globally renowned and endure throughout the centuries. At a time when timepieces were worn vertically in the waistcoat pocket, Breguet strove to devise a way of negating the effects of Earth’s gravity, which was impacting on the chronometric accuracy of the movement.

Then the idea came to him to incorporate the balance wheel and spring as well as the escapement (lever and escape wheel) in a mobile carriage rotating on itself. The master devised the name tourbillon for this double rotation of the cage and its parts, in reference to the long-forgotten notion of a planetary system. Genius in principle and captivating in operation, the invention remains the preserve of the House of Breguet, conferring a truly special originality.

The timekeeping parts of the Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge watch are very similar technically to the original creation. The steel balance springs are endowed with the characteristic terminal curve, allowing for concentric development of the spring. It was a solution devised by the founder himself, which has since become known as the Breguet overcoil. Even now, the balance spring is still shaped by hand, while the different calibrations are also done manually, such as balancing the tourbillon cages. These carriages are the only ones in the current collection that feature a framework in black-polished steel – the highest degree of finishing in fine horology.

The two mechanical hearts beat independently from one another, each driven by their own barrel. However, the two oscillating organs are coupled with a second pair of wheels, revolving in the central differential. This double-entry mechanism is able to determine the average rate of the tourbillons, allowing for the oscillating plate to be set in motion at the rate of one full rotation every 12 hours. As for the minutes indication, it is a classic hand in the center. The entire mechanism is equipped with a system to minimize play in the wheels, ensuring a perfectly precise display.

This spectacular staging makes this caliber one of the most complex systems ever developed by the Breguet Manufacture. Its mobile nature, for example, forced the engineers to entirely review the manual winding mechanism, which now relies on independent wheel trains. One of the two barrels is equipped with a friction bridle, similar to those used on self-winding watches. This astute construction allows the spring to disengage once coiled, until the second barrel is fully wound. Lastly, the crown employs a dynamometric security system, which prevents excessive winding of the springs.

The expertise of the art of watchmaking is never without aesthetic virtuosity at Breguet. Presented for the first time in 2006, the Double Tourbillon is now liberated from the dial, revealing itself in all of its mechanical beauty. Stylised and rounded, the barrel bridges in steel take on the form of the letter B. All the components are meticulously straight-grained, chamfered, and even satin-brushed by hand.

A true signature of the House, the hand-engraving on a rose engine (guilloché work) finds a new field of expression on the movement, replacing the traditional circular graining. Laid bare as it is, the caliber exposes the inner flank of the caseband, from which the hand-engraved Roman numerals stand out echoing in their design those of the sapphire hours chapter.

Yet the unique character of this timepiece is fully revealed on its back. The treasures of mechanical ingenuity assembled for the movement leave in their wake timeless poetry. The timepiece is completed with an engraving, crafted by the artisans of the Manufacture, featuring the facade of the building occupied by Abraham-Louis Breguet from 1775 onward, at 39 Quai de l’Horloge, Paris. Etched into gold, the work abounds in such meticulous detail that through the window-panes a glimpse may be caught of the wheels of the caliber.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge
Ref. 5345PT/1S/7XU

Case
Round platinum case with finely fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Sapphire glass box of high transparency
Diameter: 46 mm
Thickness: 16.8 mm
Rounded welded lugs with screw bars

Dial
Sapphire dial
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Roman numerals
Open-tipped Breguet minutes hand in blued steel
Blued-steel hours hand extending along the bar supporting the two tourbillions

Movement
Manually wound mechanical movement
Cal. 588N, numbered and signed Breguet
Two tourbillons mounted on a revolving main plate hand-engraved on a rose engine
The two regulating organs are coupled to a differential that determines the average rate
Complete revolution of the main plate in 12 hours
50-hour power reserve
16½ lignes
81 jewels
738 components
Breguet balance springs
Frequency: 2.5 hertz
Monometallic balance wheels with gold screws
Adjusted in 6 positions
On the reverse side of the movement, an engraving carried out by hand depicts the building on Quai de l’Horloge in Paris

Strap
“Stone” strap, natural slate on rubber
Triple folding clasp in platinum

Breguet Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597

Breguet expands the Tradition line, which draws its inspiration directly from the caliber of an eighteenth century subscription watch, by adding a new retrograde date model. Two variants are available: in White gold and in Rose gold.

The Breguet Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597 model offers an open view of the movement with all its architectural shapes and shows not only the hours and minutes but retrograde date.

The Tradition collection actually takes its inspiration from one of the most significant pieces of Breguet’s history: the subscription watch. Purposefully simple and stripped back, its fully visible movement unveils a perfectly symmetrical design.

In the new Tradition 7597 model, it also features a retrograde date display, a complication that the watchmaker was one of the first to develop, and which it has bestowed on some of its most famous creations.

Adjusted in a fluted white or rose gold  40 mm case, the 505Q self-winding caliber is equipped with a reverse in-line lever escapement with silicon horns, as well as a Breguet balance spring also in silicon.

The gold rotor visible through the transparent caseback is reminiscent of that of the Perpetuelles, or first self-winding watches, further testimony to the ingenuity of the master watchmaker.

Positioned in the center, the large barrel is topped by a symmetrically arranged gear train. As such, the center wheel at 8 o’clock triggers the oscillating mechanism of the same size at 4 o’clock. This is equipped with the famous pare-chute invented by the master watchmaker, the ancestor of all today’s anti-shock mechanisms, and signature element of the Tradition collection.

Another specific feature is the hour and minute dial that, eccentrically positioned at
12 o’clock and made of gold, is inspired by that of certain Breguet tact watches. As such, the new Tradition 7597 features an hours chapter with Roman numerals, bordered by a delicate engine-turned Clous de Paris pattern, which serves as a backdrop for blued Breguet hands.

In the interests of balance, a retrograde date section is positioned between the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock and a skillfully curved hand indicates the date moving in the vertical plane, fitting in with the ultra-architectural movement.

A patented mechanism provides for a fine adjustment of the date hand. The latter is multi-tiered, allowing it to fly over the movement components. At 10 o’clock, a screw-in corrector allows users to set the date safely.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597
Ref. 7597BB/G1/9WU

Case
18-carat white gold with finely fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Diameter: 40 mm. Welded lugs with screw bars
Pushbutton for correcting the date at 10 o’clock
Water resistant to 3 bar (30 meters)

Dial
Engine-turned by hand, 18-carat silvered gold, at 12 o’clock
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Roman numerals
Open-tipped Breguet hands in blued steel

Movement
Mechanical self-winding movement, numbered and signed Breguet
Caliber 505Q
14½ lignes
45 jewels
50-hour power reserve
Retrograde date indicated with blued-steel hand
Gold rotor in the style of historic movements
Reverse in-line lever escapement with silicon horns
Breguet balance spring in silicon
Frequency 3 hertz
Adjusted in 6 positions

Strap
Alligator leather with white gold folding buckle

Variant
18-carat rose gold: Reference 7597BR/G1/9WU

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 (with Platinum Case and Blue “Grand Feu” Enamel Dial)

In 2020, Breguet adorns the dial of its Extra-Thin Self-Winding Tourbillon with a touch of deep blue, by using the traditional grand feu enamel technique.

Breguet has  a workshop entirely dedicated to enamelling, the ancient decorative process that was dear to Abraham-Louis Breguet. Beyond providing decoration to the dial, enamel work is a particularly specialised craft, one requiring rigor, patience, and technical mastery. After going through stages of grinding and cleaning, the enamel is applied with a brush to the gold dial while still wet, in a thin and consistent layer. It is then heated in a furnace at a temperature higher than 800°C. The final result is obtained by adding several layers of enamel until the desired color is reached.

For the new timepiece, the hue is a blend of a number of blue nuances. The final step consists of gentle polishing before the dial is placed in the furnace one last time and this step provides it with its natural sheen.

The dial’s gold elements are then beveled in a workshop dedicated to this revered craft. Then the different indicators are applied on the dial. In keeping with the very distinctive method, artisans provide a striking depth effect within the dial itself to the Breguet numerals, the hours chapter and seconds chapter, and the logo. The range of blues also emphasises the powdered silver indicators.

Another subtle detail can be found above the tourbillon carriage: the famous secret signature. Introduced in 1795 by Abraham-Louis Breguet, it is a guarantee of authenticity that helped in the fight against counterfeits, which were already a problem at the time. Breguet places the signature on the majority of its models these days for decorative purposes, as homage to its founder.

The watch houses the mechanical self-winding 581 caliber, which distinguishes itself through its finesse and technical performance. Breguet’s thinnest tourbillon movement showcased within this timepiece is no thicker than 3 millimeters, with the total case thickness measuring 7.45 millimeters.

Placed between 4 and 6 o’clock, the tourbillon is housed in a titanium carriage that features a made-to-measure escapement and a silicon Breguet balance spring that oscillates at a frequency of four hertz, which is particularly high for a tourbillon balance spring.

The Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 boasts an 80-hour power reserve thanks to its high-energy barrel, a concept patented by Breguet.

Available exclusively at Breguet boutiques, this new release in platinum features a blue alligator leather strap.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367
Ref. 5367PT/2Y/9WU

Case
Platinum with a finely fluted caseband
Sapphire crystal caseback
Diameter: 41 mm
Welded lugs with screw-secured bars
Thickness: 7.45 mm
Water-resistant to 3 bar (30 m)

Dial
Blue “Grand Feu” enamel, signed Breguet
Chapter ring with Breguet Arabic numerals
Breguet open-tipped hands

Movement
Mechanical self-winding, extra-thin (3 mm), Cal. 581
16 lignes
33 jewels
Numbered and signed Breguet
80-hour power reserve
Barrel mounted on roller bearings. Inverted lateral lever escapement with silicon horns
Frequency 4 Hz
Silicon balance spring
Tourbillon with titanium carriage
Small seconds on the tourbillon axis
334 components

Strap
Alligator leather strap with platinum triple folding buckle

Breguet Classique 7137 and 7337 New Models with Engine Turned dials

Breguet revisits the Classique models 7137 and 7337 with one of its specialties: traditional engine-turning. On the silvered gold or Breguet blue gold dials, both new models for this year, pattern variations differentiate the reading zones with sophisticated simplicity.

Open-tipped Breguet hands and Roman numerals ensure easy readability. True to its traditions dating back to the end of the eighteenth century, Breguet adds the individual number of the watch to the dial, and engraves a secret signature there too. The Classique models have a slender case with fluted sides.

The leather bracelet is held together by lugs, which are welded for strength and curved for wearing comfort. These 39 mm models are powered by an extra-thin 502.3 caliber with an engine-turned gold rotor.

The traditional engine-turning crafted by hand finds its full expression in the Classique line. Just like two centuries ago, the artisan uses an engine-turning lathe for circular decorations or a “straight-line machine” for linear designs.

The Classique 7137 features a panier maillé basket weave pattern for the power reserve display, a damier checkerboard pattern for the date display and a clous de Paris hobnailing pattern for the main part of the dial. The dial of the white gold version is in Breguet blue color. In the rose gold version, the dial color is created using silver powder and a soft brush.

The dial of the Classique 7337 features delicate patterns: circular grain d’orge barley grain for the edges of the hours chapter, damier checkerboard for the small seconds and Clous de Paris hobnailing in the center.

Engraved clouds bordering the lacquered sky of the moon-phase indicator, dotted with sparkles, are evocative of the Milky Way. Breguet has remodeled the golden disc depicting the moon in shiny relief and matte grooves. At 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock, two apertures, with shapes reminiscent of those of historic models such as pocket watch No.3833, show the day and the date.

The sapphire crystal of the Classique 7137 and the Classique 7337 unveils the extra thin hand-decorated 502.3 automatic caliber. This movement has a reduced thickness with its open barrel and an offset rotor.

This special design makes it possible to distinguish the barrel spring, which is otherwise hidden. The use of a silicon balance spring following recent technological research continues Abraham-Louis Breguet’s quest for precision on a contemporary level.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Classique 7337, Ref. 7337BB/Y5/9VU

Case
Round, in 18-carat white gold with finely fluted case-band
Rounded welded lugs with screw bars
Diameter 39 mm
Thickness 9.9 mm
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Water-resistant to 3 bar (30 meters)

Dial
Blue, in 18-carat-gold, engine-turned by hand
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Offset hours chapter with Roman numerals at 6 o’clock
Open-tipped Breguet hands
Moon phases and age indicator at 12 o’clock
Date indicator at 2 o’clock
Weekday indicator at 10 o’clock
Small seconds at 5 o’clock

Movement
Mechanical self-winding, extra-thin
Decorated with côtes de Genève, caliber 502.3 QSE1
Numbered and signed Breguet
12 lignes
Thickness 3.80 mm
35 jewels
236 components
45-hour power reserve
18-carat-gold rotor, engine-turned by hand
Breguet balance wheel
Reverse in-line lever escapement with silicon horns
Flat balance spring in silicon
Frequency 3 hertz
Adjusted in 6 positions

Strap
Blue alligator leather with white gold folding buckle.

Variant
Also available in 18-carat rose gold with silvered gold dial: Reference 7337BR/15/9VU

Model: Breguet Classique 7137, REF. 7137BB/Y5/9VU

Case
Round, in 18-carat white gold with finely fluted caseband
Rounded welded lugs with screw bars
Diameter: 39 mm
Thickness 8.65 mm
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Water-resistant to 3 bar (30 meters)

Dial
Blue, in 18-carat-gold, engine-turned by hand
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Roman numerals
Open-tipped Breguet hands
Moon phases and age indicator at 2 o’clock
Date indicator at 6 o’clock
Power-reserve indicator between 10 o’clock and 11 o’clock

Movement
Mechanical self-winding, extra-thin
Decorated with côtes de Genève, caliber 502.3 DR1
Numbered and signed Breguet
12 lignes
Thickness 3.65 mm
37 jewels
256 components
45-hour power reserve
18-carat-gold rotor, engine-turned by hand
Breguet balance wheel
Reverse in-line lever escapement with silicon horns
Flat balance spring in silicon
Frequency 3 hertz
Adjusted in 6 positions

Strap
Blue alligator leather with white gold folding buckle

Variant
Also available in 18-carat rose gold with silvered gold dial: Reference 7137BR/15/9VU

Breguet Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 Boutique Edition (With White Gold Case and Blue Colored Guilloche Dial)

Introduced in 2005, the Breguet Tradition timepieces boast a unique feature: the movement components are showcased on top of the main-plate.

This year Breguet presents a new design version of the Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 with a blue colored guilloche dial. This new timepiece will be exclusively available in Breguet boutiques.

This wristwatch, like the rest of the collection, inspired by the subscription watches, recalls the genius of Abraham-Louis Breguet who first invented these one-hand pocket watches in 1796. They were fitted with a special movement of great simplicity and sold by subscription: a down payment of a quarter of the price on order and the rest on delivery. A.-L. Breguet used the movements of his subscription watches to create his first tact watches.

The Tradition 7097 pays tribute to the beauty of the calibers of the subscription and tact watches by revealing the bridges, wheels, escapement, barrel and other components of the movement, which are usually hidden beneath the mainplate. Refined finishing enhances the visual balance displayed by the symmetrical bridges.

The bridges and mainplate are decorated to achieve a uniform, finely grained surface, which requires rare skill and faultless execution. The gold winding rotor borrows its shape from historical movements while the classic clous de Paris (hobnailing) guilloche pattern, executed by hand, highlights the blue dial in gold, positioned off-center at 12 o’clock.

This timepiece gets its name from the retrograde seconds hand at 10 o’clock. The hours and minutes are shown by Breguet-style open-tipped hands in rhodium-plated steel. In order to provide optimum readability and to highlight the retrograde seconds’ complication, Breguet watchmakers used a semicircle with a circular brushed finish superimposed on the dial.

To maintain the symmetry, the pare-chute is located at 4 o’clock. This Breguet invention, which protects the balance staff from shocks, can be identified at a glance as the emblematic feature of the Tradition collection. It is the forbear of all the shock-protection mechanisms in use in watch-making today, including the Incabloc system.

The 7097 reference features a 40mm white gold case that houses a movement with an inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon pallets and a silicon Breguet overcoil balance spring that guarantee exceptional precision.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097
REF. 7097BB/GY/9WU

Case
18-carat white gold with delicately fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback
40mm diameter
Welded lugs with screw bars
Water resistant to 3 bar (30m)

Dial
Blue dial in gold, engine-turned and offset at 12 o’clock
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Roman numerals
Retrograde small seconds at 10 o’clock
Breguet open-tipped hands in rhodium-plated steel

Movement
Self-winding movement numbered and signed Breguet. Cal. 505SR1
14½ lignes
38 jewels
50 hours power reserve
Gold winding rotor borrowing its style from Breguet antique watches
Straight-line inverted lever escapement with silicon pallets
Breguet overcoil balance spring in silicon
Balance frequency: 3Hz
Adjusted in 6 positions

Strap
Blue leather strap

Availability
Available in Breguet boutiques around the world

Breguet Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia

This high-jewellery timepiece from the House of Breguet offers an exquisite interpretation of the fascinating beauty of the seas.

Posidonia oceanica, which is also known as Neptune grass or Mediterranean tape weed, is a sea-grass species found only in the Mediterranean Sea. This aquatic plant is very essential to the sea’s balance. Breguet portrays the plant’s arabesques on the Marine Haute Joaillerie Poseidonia watch by exploring the arts of mother-of-pearl marquetry and invisible setting.

The dial, set with 85 baguette-cut diamonds, appears to ripple across the intense iridescence of the Tahitian mother-of-pearl, which is deeply colored or more silvery depending on the light. The skillful setting continues on the bezel, caseband, lugs of the strap, and the clasp of the buckle.

The Marine Haute Joaillerie Poseidonia watch houses the caliber 591C, an extra-thin self-winding manufacture movement.

Worked in marquetry, the Tahitian mother-of-pearl demands expertise and delicacy. For the Marine Haute Joaillerie Poseidonia watch, Breguet combines the craft with the art of invisible setting. The white gold of the dial thus becomes invisible behind the glint of the diamonds. The artisan selects each mother-of-pearl dial carefully to harmonize its iridescent pattern, unique to each gem, with the inset curves of the Poseidonia. Together, their radiance evokes rays of sunshine playing on the sea’s surface. The lines of the pattern unfurl, with diamonds extending out to the lugs of the strap.

The watch has delicate, gold Breguet hands to indicate the hours and minutes. The tip of the second hand reveals the letter B of the maritime code of signals – a distinctive feature of the Marine collection. The traditional baguette-set bezel facilitates reading: the distinct triangular diamonds mark each of the 12 hours.

The sides of the white-gold case and the crown are delicately fluted, alternating between polished white gold and baguette-cut diamonds. A briolette-cut diamond tops the crown, claw set with six baguette-cut diamonds. The crown protection is set entirely invisibly with 14 baguette-cut diamonds.

The setting continues to the clasp of the strap buckle, echoing the inset bezel and the shape of the open-tipped Breguet hands. The B for Breguet stands out against the slightly colored metallic finish in the center of the buckle.

To join the diamond and Tahitian mother-of-pearl Marine Haute Joaillerie, Breguet proposes three other versions with white mother-of-pearl marquetry: sapphire-set blue, ruby-set red and emerald-set green.

Breguet Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia Sapphire-set blue (Reference 9509BB/5S/984 SD0S)

Breguet Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia Sapphire-set blue

From the dominant hue of each version – red, green, or blue –, Breguet composes the curves of the Poseidonia in different colors.

Breguet Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia Emerald-set green (Reference 9509BB/5E/984 ED0E)

Breguet Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia Emerald-set green

Each of the 85 gems composing the pattern is selected for its hue, is then cut and set invisibly. After months of work, the result reveals a singular radiance of remarkable colors, unique to each Marine Haute Joaillerie.

Breguet Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia Ruby-set red (Reference 9509BB/5R/984 RD0R)

Breguet Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia Ruby-set red

On the bezel, the setting is composed of the different colors of the dial, just like the setting of the strap buckle. The metallic finish in the center of the buckle also takes the dominant color, as does the iridescent nuance of the leather strap.

Buckle of Emerald Version

Buckle of Ruby Version

Buckle of Sapphire version

On the caseback, the transparent sapphire reveals the extra-thin, self-winding 591C caliber, whose bridges are engine-turned by hand with the Marine motif – inspired by the deck of a ship.

On the bevel of the white-gold rotor, the sparkling diamond border contrasts with the intensity of the Tahitian mother-of-pearl.

The words Horloger de la Marine (Watchmaker to the Navy) are engraved on the rim of the caseback in white gold. This refers to the title of Chronometer-maker to the French Royal Navy bestowed upon Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1815.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia
Ref. 9509BB/TD/984 DD0D

Case
Round case in 18-karat white gold
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Bezel, caseband, lugs and crown set with 1 briolette-cut and 123 baguette-cut diamonds, totaling approx. 6.64 carats
Diameter: 35.80 mm
Thickness: 10.46 mm

Dial
Tahitian mother-of-pearl, set with 85 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 2.56 carats.
Individually numbered and signed Breguet.
Open-tipped Breguet hands in gold
Central second hand, adorned with a B in a reinterpretation of maritime signals

Movement
Mechanical self-winding movement numbered and signed Breguet, cal. 591C. 11½ lignes
25 jewels
38-hour power reserve
18- karat gold rotor, adorned with Tahitian mother-of-pearl and set with 31 diamonds, approx. 0.09 carats
Frequency 4 hertz
Silicon in-line Swiss lever escapement
Flat balance spring in silicon
Breguet balance wheel
169 components

Strap
Iridescent leather, fitted with a triple-folding buckle in white gold, set with 30 baguette cut diamonds, approx. 0.7 carats.

Also Available

  • Sapphire version: Combination of blue sapphires, amethysts, colored sapphires, tsavorites, and diamonds. Reference 9509BB/5S/984 SD0S
  • Ruby version: Combination of rubies, colored sapphires, and diamonds. Reference 9509BB/5R/984 RD0R
  • Emerald version: Composition of emeralds, tsavorites, colored sapphires, and diamonds. Reference 9509BB/5E/984 ED0E

Breguet Tradition Dame 7038 Boutique Edition (Rose Gold Case and Off-Centered Tahitian Mother-Of-Pearl Dial)

Inspired by its rich horological history of more than 200 years, Breguet has announced a new edition of the Tradition Dame 7038. This women’s watch adorned with iridescent Tahitian mother-of-pearl and an orange leather strap, has been reserved exclusively for Breguet boutiques.

With this new Tradition model, Breguet offers a contemporary reinterpretation of an aesthetic conceived by the House’s founder in the late eighteenth century. Visible from the dial, the movement, deep brown in color, takes up the symmetrical architecture of the historic subscription watch. This innovative timepiece design was created by Abraham-Louis Breguet, in Paris, in the wake of the French Revolution, following a long trip to Switzerland during which he had mused on a great number of projects.

Mechanical and feminine in equal measure, the Tradition 7038 is easily recognizable by its off-center dial in Tahitian mother-of-pearl, inspired by Breguet’s tact watches. A diamond-set bezel adds sparkle to the creation, which is completed with a striking strap in orange leather. Delicately decorated and powered by a self-winding caliber with a silicon balance spring, the Tradition 7038 watch, which is reserved for Breguet boutiques, brings together the expertise of the House.

Breguet is offering this model reserved for its boutiques only with an original case – an elegant matching orange clutch bag fashioned from grained calfskin leather. Made in Italy in accordance with the great artisanal tradition, it features a clasp that echoes the rosette pattern on the barrel of the Tradition 7038 watch.

Featuring an off-centered Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial for hour and minutes, the dial side of the watch also reveals the historically inspired mechanical movement. The balance wheel with a hairspring takes its place between 4 and 5 o’clock under a bridge protected by a pare-chute anti-shock mechanism, invented by Breguet in 1790.

Opposite, between 7 and 8 o’clock, the center wheel and its bridge perfectly mirror the Breguet balance wheel, with identical dimensions. In golden hues, the central barrel, decorated with a rosette motif, and the wheels of the movement contrast with the deep brown and finely sandblasted bridges and mainplate.

Breguet hands in gold indicate the hours and minutes on the Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial, which is off-center at 12 o’clock. Its iridescent surface features clous de Paris (hobnailing) guilloche pattern topped with the Breguet inscription and the unique number of the timepiece. A delicate border, engine-turned by hand, outlines the hours chapter marked with Breguet numerals. A fine retrograde hand discretely points to the seconds engraved at 10 o’clock.

Measuring 37mm diameter, the rose-gold case has delicately fluted sides. The bezel set with 68 diamonds highlights the precious aesthetic of the composition, while a cabochon-cut ruby adorns the winding crown. The transparent caseback reveals the reverse side of the self-winding Breguet 505SR caliber. Its gold rotor, embellished with a rosette guilloche motif, echoes the decoration of the barrel on the dial. The welded lugs, which are slightly rounded at the edges, provide a holding place for the orange calfskin leather bracelet.

The refined aesthetic of the Tradition line is inspired by the design of the subscription caliber created by Breguet in 1796. After two years in Switzerland during the darkest days of the French Revolution, the watchmaker returned to Paris to find his workshops, located on Quai de l’Horloge in Île de la Cité, needed to be rebuilt. In a stroke of genius, Abraham-Louis Breguet, with a reputation for complex timepieces, created the simplest watch ever made: the subscription watch.

With a robust construction and a pared-back aesthetic, a single hand indicates both the hours and minutes. The movement is characterized by a centrally positioned barrel, as well as by a symmetrical placement of the balance wheel and the opposite wheel, which are of identical diameters.

Three years later, Breguet brought out his tact watches, including watch no. 611 which was to be acquired by the Empress Joséphine, wife to Napoleon Bonaparte. The timepiece featured a flinqué enamel dial with diamonds set at each hour, and can be viewed at the Breguet Museum in Paris. A subtle evolution from the subscription caliber, a number of these watches featured – along with the external hand – a pared-back dial with only one or two hands. This layout, taken up again in the current Tradition collection, allows both for the time to be read and the movement to be observed.

Breguet is offering the Tradition 7038 wristwatch, available exclusively in brand boutiques, with a unique and refined accessory which reimagines the idea of a watchcase. Breguet has called on the services of Italian craftsmen for this handcrafted and tailor-made clutch bag in grained calfskin leather. Its bright orange matches the bracelet of the Tradition 7038 and can be carried by hand, or worn over the shoulder, or across the body.

The bag’s round and golden clasp is decorated with a rosette design, a larger version of the engine-turned barrel visible on the dial side of the Tradition 7038, which is barely 10 millimeters in size.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Tradition Dame 7038
Ref. 7038BR/CT/3V6 D00D

Case
18k rose gold with delicately fluted caseband
Bezel set with 68 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.895 ct)
Winding crown set with a ruby (approx. 0.16 ct)
Sapphire-crystal caseback
37mm diameter
11.85mm thick
Welded lugs with screw bars
Water-resistant to 3 bar (30m)

Dial
Tahitian mother-of-pearl, engine-turned by hand and offset at 12 o’clock
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Arabic Breguet numerals
Breguet open-tipped hands in gold

Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement, Cal. 505SR
216 components
Numbered and signed Breguet
Retrograde seconds engraved on the movement face
14½ lignes
38 jewels
50-hour power reserve
Inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns
Breguet balance spring in silicon
Balance frequency 3Hz
Adjusted in 6 positions

Strap
Orange calfskin leather strap with rose gold pin buckle set with 25 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.13 ct).

Edition
Available in Breguet boutiques around the world

Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 (New Model in Rose Gold Case with Slate-Gray Dial in Gold)

Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 combines the bold and sporty aesthetic that has always marked the Breguet Marine line with a highly complicated movement and the finest hand decoration. Now Breguet offers this model in rose gold with a gold dial in slate-gray color.

The Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 merges three threads from Breguet’s history. First, its legacy of the invention of the tourbillon, patented by founder Abraham Louis Breguet in 1801. Important as well is its unparalleled patrimony in the field of complicated watches: Marine 5887 includes, in addition to the latest generation tourbillon, a perpetual calendar and an equation of time.

Third, by uniting these two historic pillars of the house in a Marine timepiece, Breguet recalls the founder’s appointment in 1815 by the King of France, Louis XVIII as Horloger de la Marine Royale, which made him the official watchmaker of the French Navy.

Emphasizing the link between the Marine line and the sea is a guilloche-peaked wave motif in the center of the dial. The applied Roman numerals as well as the Breguet moon-tipped hands are in rose gold.

On the back, a depiction of an ancient flagship of the French Navy, the Royal Louis, has been hand carved across the bridges of the movement. The entirety of the vessel reaches across four bridges and fine details extend from one bridge to another. This calls for extreme precision in placement so that the elements of the image will line up perfectly once the movement is mounted.

The barrel drum bears an illustration of a compass rose also engraved by hand. The peripheral oscillating weight in platinum, engine-turned and engraved with the Breguet legend, allows for a fully unobstructed view of the movement’s artwork.

The Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante includes two minute hands, a traditional civil minute hand and a second minute hand showing solar time directly.

At the heart of the movement is a cam on a sapphire disc that completes a full rotation per year faithfully duplicating the equation of time cycle. This transparent disc, with months of the year marked along its perimeter, allows one to see the tourbillon located underneath. The mechanism is completed with a set of gears called a “differential”. The genius of a differential is that it is able to combine two separate inputs into one output.

The civil minutes indication is produced by the main gear train of the watch. The equation of time information is read by the finger following the cam’s form. Thus, the differential, in effect, performs the formula for calculating solar time (civil time plus equation of time) which is displayed by the solar minute hand. With two minute hands, the owner at a glance can read civil time and solar time.

The running equation of time display of this Marine model is paired with a perpetual calendar. The movement accounts for all of the irregularities of the four-year calendar cycle, the months of 30 or 31 days, and the month of February of 28 or 29 days during the leap year. The calendar display is unique among Breguet collections and embodies a newly constructed mechanism. Rather than with hands, the day of the week and the month are shown in small windows. The date is indicated with a hand known as “retrograde”. This hand advances along an arc until the end of the month, when in the middle of the night, it will reverse course and instantaneously snap back to “1” to start the next month.

The movement of this Grande Complication model is derived from the extra-thin self-winding tourbillon caliber 581. The basic notions of tourbillon design rooted in Abraham Louis Breguet’s patent remain unchanged: the timekeeping elements of the watch, its balance wheel, spiral, and the escapement, are placed within a carriage that makes one rotation per minute so as to cancel out rate errors resulting from gravitational forces.

Modern technology played a prominent role, as well, in the tourbillon design as the carriage is made of titanium and the balance wheel’s spiral as well as the escape wheel are fashioned in silicon. As the tourbillon mechanism has been redesigned, the cage is driven by a peripheral gear. The tourbillon and the sum of its components seemingly fly in space.

The mainspring barrel was not overlooked in the quest to reduce thickness. By creating a groove around the barrel drum, held in place by three bearing assemblies located outside of it, Breguet’s designers were able to reduce thickness by 25%. The power reserve, to match with the other indications on the dial, is shown by gauge-type indicator at VIII o’clock.

Technical details

Model: Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887
REF. 5887BR/G2/9WV

Case
18-carat rose gold with fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Diameter: 43.9 millimeters
Thickness: 11.75 millimeters.
Water-resistant to 10 bar (100 meters)

Dial
Slate-gray dial in gold, engine-turned by hand
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Roman numerals in 18-carat rose gold and luminescent dots
Faceted Breguet moon-tipped hands in 18-carat rose gold with luminescent material
Solar minute hand with a faceted golden sun
Day windows between 10 and 11 o’clock
Month and year windows between 1 and 2 o’clock
Retrograde date on a circular arc running from 9 to 3 o’clock
Power-reserve indicator in a window between 7 and 9 o’clock

Movement
Caliber 581DPE
Mechanical self-winding movement with a peripheral oscillating weight, tourbillon, running equation of time, perpetual calendar, and an 80- hour power reserve
563 components
16¾ lignes
57 jewels
Numbered and signed Breguet
Small seconds and equation of time cam on the tourbillon axis
Silicon escape wheel and inverted lateral lever with silicon horns
Silicon balance spring
Frequency: 4 hertz
Adjusted in 6 positions

Strap
Brown alligator leather strap with rose gold triple folding buckle

Breguet Classique 9065 Tahitian Mother-Of-Pearl Limited Edition

Presented for the first time with a deeply lustrous Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial, the new
Classique 9065 wristwatch for women adds a touch of passion to Breguet’s classic style. Vermilion notes warm the composition, echoing the vibrant red of the ruby set on the crown.

Encircled by the gold of the second hand, a delicate, crimson heart beats out the passing time. The date is shown in cream numerals through a garnet window, while the iridescent red satin strap shimmers and accentuates the sparkling timepiece. For even more luster, 88 brilliant-cut diamonds illuminate the bezel of the fine rose gold case, and the lugs of the strap. The watch houses an automatic manufacture caliber with a 38- hour power reserve.

The Classique 9065 Tahitian mother-of-pearl is a part of an exclusive series of 28 numbered timepieces, reserved for a selection of Breguet boutiques.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Classique 9065
REF. 9065BR/5T/976 DD00

Case
18-carat rose gold with delicately fluted caseband
Bezel and lugs inlaid with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds (approximately 0.606 carats)
Crown set with a ruby
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Diameter: 33.50 millimeters
Thickness: 7.55 millimeters
Welded lugs with screw bars
Water-resistant to 3 bar (30 meters)

Dial
Tahitian mother-of-pearl, signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Breguet Arabic numerals
Second hand in the center, and date at 3 o’clock
Date window in rose gold
Open-tipped Breguet hands in rose gold, second hand decorated with a heart

Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement
Numbered and signed Breguet. Cal. 591A. 11½ lignes
25 jewels
38-hour power reserve
187 components
Silicon in-line Swiss lever escapement
Balance spring in silicon
Breguet balance wheel
Frequency 4 hertz
Adjusted in 6 positions

Strap
Iridescent red satin with rose gold pin buckle.

Edition
Limited edition of 28 timepieces, numbered from 01/28 to 28/28

Breguet Marine Collection, New Gold Bracelet Versions of the Marine 5517, the Chronographe 5527, and the Alarme Musicale 5547 models

To its popular Marine Collection, Breguet adds new versions of the Marine 5517, the Chronographe 5527, and the Alarme Musicale 5547 models in rose or white gold with matching gold bracelets.

The Marine 5517 features a clean dial with three central hands and date window. The Marine Chronographe 5527, on the other hand, measures short time intervals. Finally, the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 features an alarm complication, as well as displaying the date and time for a second time zone. Each watch is available in three materials: Titanium, rose gold and white gold. The titanium model features an elegantly understated sunburst slate-gray dial in gold. The rose gold and white gold cases feature a gold dial engine-turned by hand with an original wave design.

For 2020, Breguet is offering the Marine collection with matching gold straps for a sportier look – rose gold for versions with a silver dial and white gold for those with a blue dial.

The first link, which is attached directly – integrated – to the case, continues the smooth lines of the Marine to the wrist, offering superior comfort for the wearer. Echoing the contrasting gold on the case, the links alternate between polished and glossy facets.

Breguet Marine 5517 White Gold Version with bracelet, REF. 5517BB/Y2/BZ0

The sculpted lugs accentuate the roundness of the case on the Marine models. The fluted case flanks evoke Breguet creations of times gone by.

Breguet Marine 5517 rose gold version with bracelet (Reference 5517BR/12/RZ0)

The artisan watchmaker’s skill heightens the dial’s legibility, whilst the bright polished finish of the Breguet moon-tipped hands makes reading the time all but effortless.

Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527 White Gold Version with Bracelet, Ref. 5527BB/Y2/BW0

For nighttime use, the tip of each hand features a luminescent material, as do the five-minute markers above the Roman numerals.

Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527 rose gold version with bracelet, Reference 5527BR/12/RW0

For its Marine collection, Breguet has created an engine-turning pattern inspired by the crests of the waves, executed by hand on the versions in gold.

Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 White Gold Version with Bracelet, Ref. 5547BB/Y2/BZ0

Numerous details from the Marine 5517, Marine Chronographe 5527, and Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 pay homage to the nautical world.

Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 rose gold version with bracelet, Reference 5547BR/12/RZ0

On the caliber bridges, the côtes de Genève pattern engine-turned by hand calls to mind a ship’s deck boards. The tip of the second hand forms a “B,” which stands for the “Bravo” of maritime parlance, or for Breguet. A ship’s wheel design features on the rotor.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Marine 5517 White Gold Version, REF. 5517BB/Y2/BZ0

Case
18-carat white gold with fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Diameter 40 millimeters
Thickness 11.50 millimeters
Water-resistant to 10 bar (100 meters)

Dial
Blue dial in gold, engine-turned
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Roman numerals and luminescent dots
Faceted Breguet moon-tipped hands in gold with luminescent material
Central second hand inspired by maritime codes
Date at 3 o’clock

Movement
Mechanical self-winding movement, caliber 777A
179 components
15 lignes
26 jewels
Numbered and signed Breguet
55 hour power reserve
Inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns
Frequency 4 hertz
Silicon balance spring

Bracelet
Bracelet in 18-carat white gold

Variant
Also available in rose gold on a rose gold bracelet: Reference 5517BR/12/RZ0

Model: Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527 White Gold Version
Ref. 5527BB/Y2/BW0

Case
18-carat white gold with fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Diameter 42.3 millimeters
Thickness 13.85 millimeters
Water-resistant to 10 bar (100 meters)

Dial
Blue dial in gold, engine-turned
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Roman numerals and luminescent dots
Minute counter at 3 o’clock, hours at 6 o’clock, and small seconds at 9 o’clock
Date window between 4 and 5 o’clock
Faceted Breguet moon-tipped hands in gold with luminescent material
Central chronograph hand inspired by maritime codes

Movement
Mechanical self-winding movement, caliber 582QA
346 components
13½ lignes
28 jewels
Numbered and signed Breguet
48-hour power reserve
Inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns
Frequency 4 hertz
Silicon balance spring

Bracelet
Bracelet in 18-carat white gold

Variant
Also available in rose gold on a rose gold bracelet: Reference 5527BR/12/RW0

Model: Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 White Gold Version
Ref. 5547BB/Y2/BZ0

Case
18-carat white gold with fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Diameter: 40 millimeters
Thickness: 13.05 millimeters
Water-resistant to 5 bar (50 meters)

Dial
Blue dial in gold, engine-turned
Individually numbered and signed Breguet
Hours chapter with Roman numerals and luminescent dots
Alarm subdial at 3 o’clock and time-zone display at 9 o’clock
Alarm-activation window at 12 o’clock, and date window at 6 o’clock
Striking mechanism power reserve indicated between 9 and 12 o’clock
Faceted Breguet moon-tipped hands in gold with luminescent material
Central second hand inspired by maritime codes

Movement
Mechanical self-winding movement, caliber 519F/1
376 components
12 lignes
36 jewels
Numbered and signed Breguet
45-hour power reserve
Inverted silicon in-line lever escapement
Frequency 4 hertz
Silicon balance spring

Bracelet
Bracelet in 18-carat white gold

Variant
Also available in rose gold on a rose gold bracelet: Reference 5547BR/12/RZ0

Breguet Reine De Naples 8918 in Grand Feu Enamel

The new Reine de Naples 8918 ladies’ watch by Breguet features expertly applied grand feu enamel on its dial – a first for the collection. Against an immaculate background, the stylized Breguet Arabic numerals appear in blue enamel, as does the signature of the House and the words “émaillé Grand Feu” (grand feu enamel).

The alligator leather strap, fitted with a folding buckle set with 28 diamonds, echoes these heavenly hues. Adorning the circumference of the bezel and the dial flange are 117 diamonds surrounding this composition in white gold. This Reine de Naples 8918 model is powered by a self-winding manufacture caliber.

The watch boasts fine Breguet hands in blued steel to indicate hours and minutes. The off-center hours chapter features dots, diamond-shaped markers and fleurs-de-lis, punctuated by a pear-shaped diamond at 6 o’clock. If the light is just right, the reflections allow a glimpse of Breguet’s secret signature, which is placed at 3 o’clock.

The white-gold case with finely fluted sides houses the self-winding manufacture caliber 537/3, which has a power reserve of 45 hours. A briolette-cut diamond lends a touch of sparkle to the crown at 4 o’clock. The sapphire-crystal caseback reveals the movement of the watch.

Each component is decorated by hand with great care. If the owner so wishes, the House of Breguet will record her name in its archives, kept since the late eighteenth century, next to the individual number, engraved on the back of the watch.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Reine De Naples 8918
Ref. 8918BB/28/964 D00D

Case
Oval, 18-karat white gold with finely fluted caseband
Bezel and dial flange set with 117 diamonds weighing approximately 0.99 carats
Crown set with a briolette-cut diamond weighing approximately 0.26 carats
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Dimensions: 36.5 × 28.45 millimeters
Thickness: 10.05 millimeters
Water-resistant to 3 bar (30 meters)

Dial
Grand feu enamel dial, signed Breguet
Hours chapter with blue Breguet Arabic numerals off-centered at 6 o’clock
Pear-shaped diamond at 6 o’clock weighing approximately 0.08 carats
Open-tipped Breguet hands in blued steel

Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement. Caliber 537/3. 8¾ lignes. 26 jewels. 45-hour power reserve. 191 components. Silicon in-line Swiss lever escapement. Balance spring in silicon. Frequency 3.5 hertz. Breguet balance wheel. Adjusted in 6 positions.

Strap
Blue alligator leather strap with a triple folding buckle set with 28 diamonds weighing approximately 0.17 carats.

Breguet Type 20 Only Watch 2019

Breguet is offering a one-of-a-kind watch to support Only Watch, the major international charity project sponsored by the Monegasque Association against Muscular dystrophy. This biannual event has been held since 2005 and has benefited from the support of Breguet and the high patronage of HRH Prince Albert II since the very beginning. An exceptional auction sale conducted by Christie’s will be taking place in Geneva for the benefit of medical research on muscular dystrophy on Saturday, November 9, 2019.

The watch created by Breguet exclusively for the Only Watch 2019 charity auction is a unique piece based on Type 20, the iconic pilot watch.

The House of Breguet showed an early interest in watches designed for aviation, highlighting how watchmaking should contribute to progress in air navigation just as it had done previously for marine navigation. From 1918 onwards, the House of Breguet provided several timepieces for the American Air Force and in 1922 for the Société d’Aviation Louis Breguet, a company founded by a descendant of Abraham-Louis Breguet.

These instruments gradually became chronographs with counters and tachometers, which could either be worn by the pilots or affixed to the plane’s dashboard. Breguet continued to provide increasingly sophisticated chronographs to various aviation and aircraft companies. However, the most important chapter in the history of the Breguet pilot watch began with the Type XX.

In the early fifties, the French Ministry of Defense drew up specifications with a view to purchasing chronograph wristwatches for its Air Force, to be known as Type 20. Drawing on its experience in this area, Breguet expressed its interest and designed a model that was quickly approved by the authorities. The year was 1954 and the legend of the Type XX had just begun.

The Type 20 was introduced as a pilot watch equipped with a flyback chronograph, the emblematic function of this watch. The flyback function allows for the chronograph function to be reset to zero by simply pressing the lower pushbutton, simplifying the pilot or team members’ operations and offering the possibility of recording several consecutive times.

It is worth noting that in the house’s books, the military models are referred to as Type 20 and the civilian models as Type XX. The Type XX chronograph evolved through three successive generations, each with several varieties that today arouse a growing desire among collectors.

In homage to both watchmaking and aviation, Breguet is reissuing a unique version of its Type 20 pilot chronograph from the fifties in a form that is very faithful to the original, both esthetically and mechanically.

Its steel case preserves the historical diameter of 38.30 mm, the unique curved horns with lateral bevel, and the pear-shaped crown, typical of the first-generation military models delivered to the French Air Force and Naval Air Force. From this desire for accuracy, the new model is equipped with a bidirectional bezel in fluted steel without graduations, along with triangular markings for flight calculations.

The dial of the watch is inspired by the very rare civilian and military models with a bronze colored dial sold at the time. Some black dials also took on a shade of bronze after long exposure to the sun. The Type 20 Only Watch 2019 displays small seconds and a 30-minute totalizer. It offers sharp legibility in all conditions and sports the distinctive hands of the historical Type XX watches, which are treated with Super-LumiNova®, as well as the large Arabic numerals. A notable difference between the Type 20 Only Watch 2019 and the Air Force’s historical model is the Breguet signature at 12 o’clock.

The Type 20 Only Watch 2019 is faithful not only visually to the watch that it is inspired from, but also in its movement: the Valjoux 235 13 lignes, which is derived directly from the Valjoux 222 14 lignes used in the fifties. The movement blank of this manually wound, column-wheel chronograph was restored back to working order, so as to ensure the Type 20 Only Watch 2019 is endowed with the same proportions and functions. This movement is, of course, fitted with the flyback function, without which it could never be a true Type 20 pilot chronograph.

The Breguet Type 20 Only Watch 2019 is equipped, like the original, with a steel screw-down caseback, which offers water resistance up to 30 meters. On the caseback, the owner of this Only Watch 2019 exclusive watch will find an inscription that reads: “Breguet Type 20 Only Watch 2019 Pièce Unique”. This model will be offered in a presentation box shaped like an airplane’s wing.

Technical details

Model: Breguet Type 20 Only Watch 2019
Réf. 2055ST/Z5/398

Case
Round steel case
Solid caseback with engraving “Breguet Type 20 Only Watch 2019 Pièce Unique”
Diameter 38.30 mm
Thickness 13.90 mm
Bidirectional rotating bezel with triangular markings for flight calculations
Rounded lugs
Pear-shaped crown
Water resistant to 3 bar (30 meters)

Dial
Bronze colored, signed Breguet
Hours chapter with luminescent Arabic numerals
30- minute counter at 3 o’clock
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Central chronograph counter
Luminescent hands

Movement
Mechanical manually wound movement, column-wheel chronograph with flyback function. Numbered and signed Breguet. Cal. Valjoux 235. 13 lignes. 17 jewels
45-hour power reserve
183 components
In-line Swiss lever escapement
Annular balance wheel
Flat balance spring
Frequency 3 hertz

Strap
Calfskin leather

Edition
Unique piece for Only Watch 2019

Breguet Classique 5177 Grand Feu Blue Enamel

The new Breguet Classique 5177 presents the Breguet blue for the first time in a grand feu enamel. Featuring a deep blue grand feu enamel dial, this new timepiece takes inspiration from the refined designs of eighteenth century timepieces created by Abraham-Louis Breguet.

The hue of the dial echoes the color obtained during the bluing of the Breguet hands. To ensure ease of readability, the moon-tipped hands made of rhodium-plated steel stand out against the blue background. In the same quest for readability, the Arabic numerals, stars, diamond shapes and fleur-de-lis on the chapter ring are silvered and are larger in size. Their relief is born from a very delicate, powdered tracing.

The date figures are treated using the same process in order to aid visibility, due to the positioning of the aperture that sits in a darkened lower level window. Finally, Breguet’s secret signature, also in enamel, appears at 6 o’clock. For all of its timepieces with an enamel dial, the House of Breguet continues to use the calligraphy once drawn by Abraham-Louis Breguet, as featured, for example, on the self-winding Breguet No. 15 watch launched in 1787.

Powered by the self-winding 777Q mechanical caliber, the Classique 5177 Grand Feu Blue Enamel model has simple and useful functions: the central second hand and the date at 3 o’clock. Current technological advances such as the use of silicon for the lever and escape wheel optimize its chronometric reliability. However, certain aesthetic elements of this2019 New Model caliber, in particular the form of the wheels, are reminiscent of Breguet’s creations from the late eighteenth century.

Characteristic of a self-winding movement, the rotor in engine-turned 18-karat gold appears through the sapphire-crystal caseback. Similarly, each of the components – visible or invisible – is delicately finished by the craftsmen of the Breguet Manufacture with techniques such as chamfering, circular graining, and brushing, or with the côtes de Genève.

The 777Q caliber fits into a slim case in white gold with fluted sides. True to the Breguet style, the lugs are welded and rounded toward the midnight blue alligator leather strap.

Finally, an individual number is engraved on the back of each watch, marking it unique to its owner. In turn, the owner can have their name recorded in the Breguet registers that have been kept since 1780 – as a contemporary sign of their taste for timeless elegance.

Technical details

Model: BREGUET CLASSIQUE 5177
Reference: 5177BB/2Y/9V6

Case
Round in 18-carat white gold with finely fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback
Rounded lugs welded to the case, with screw pins securing the strap
38mm diameter
Water resistant to 3 bar (30 meters)

Dial
In « Grand Feu » blue enamel, with Breguet secret signature
Chapter ring with Breguet Roman numerals
Centre seconds and date aperture at 3 o’clock
Open-tipped Breguet hands in rhodium-plated steel

Movement
Mechanical self-winding, adorned with “Côtes de Genève”, Cal. 777Q
Numbered and signed Breguet
55-hour power reserve
18- carat oscillating weight in 18k gold, hand engraved on a rose engine
Stop seconds
12 lignes
26 jewels
In-line Swiss lever escapement, escape wheel and lever in silicon
Silicon balance spring
Breguet balance-wheel with 4 regulating screws
4Hz frequency
Adjusted in 6 positions

Strap
Dark blue alligator leather with a pin buckle in white gold