Co-founded by master watchmaker Franck Muller and Armenian-born business man and watch case specialist Vartan Sirmakes, Franck Muller Watchland is one of the most acclaimed independent watch companies in contemporary watchmaking.
Established in 1991, the House of Franck Muller is known for its highly exclusive technical complications, which are proprietary innovations, produced in-house within its Manufacture in Genthod, Geneva.
It was at the end of the 80s, Franck Muller and Vartan Sirmakes met. They shared a passion for watchmaking each of them with vast complementary experience in the field.
At the time, Franck Muller was making his own models under the “Franck Geneva” brand. The notable horological masterpieces created by him during the 1980s were a Tourbillon with jumping hours, a Tourbillon with Minute Repeater and an inverted Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar with Minute Repeater.
As for Vartan Sirmakes, he made cases for several fine watchmaking brands in a workshop he had set up in a district of Geneva alongside Lake Geneva. In 1991, Franck called on Vartan to design his new case bodies. This partnership has eventually paved the way for creating of one of the most reputable watchmaking companies in the world.
In 1992, the brand introduced the iconic Cintrée Curvex (tonneau curved) case design. In 1998, Franck Muller launched its own exhibition named World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie (WPHH) to showcase its products. In 2003, the iconic Crazy Hours watch was launched. In 2004, the brand introduced the world’s first tri-axial tourbillon.
In 2006, Franck Muller took over two Swiss watch component companies: Les Fils d’Arnold Linder SA (maker of top quality dials), and Pignons Juracie SA (producer of gear wheels and pinions). In the same year, the group also acquired the assets, including a retail outlet, of the Genevan luxury watch manufacturer Mahara Montres (MHR).
In 2007, Franck Muller unveiled the Aeternitas Mega, the world’s most complicated mechanical wristwatch at the time of its launch. As on May 2007, the group included seven luxury watch brands: Franck Muller Genève, Pierre Kunz, ECW, Rodolphe, Barthelay, Backes & Strauss and Martin Braun.
In 2008, the manufacture launched Pierre Michel Golay watch brand. In 2010, the company introduced Smalto Timepieces in collaboration with Italian fashion designer Francesco Smalto.
Introduced in 2011, the Franck Muller Giga Tourbillon stands out with the biggest tourbillon ever incorporated in a wristwatch. For the Only Watch Charity Auction 2011, Franck Muller donated “Totally Switzerland”, a unique timepiece based on its playful Crazy Hours complication. The Franck Muller watch Totally Switzerland was sold for €44, 000.
In 2012, Italian high fashion house Roberto Cavalli signed a contract with the group to develop, create and distribute Swiss Made “Roberto Cavalli by Franck Muller” watches. The first Roberto Cavalli by Franck Muller watch collection was launched at the Monaco WPHH 2012.
In 2013, Franck Muller introduced Calibre 1700, the movement entirely made in-house. Composed of 213 components and equipped with 2 barrels, this mechanical manual-winding calibre features a 7 day power reserve.
Today, in addition to its Genthod site, the company has production facilities in Lajoux, Les Bois, Plan-les-Ouates and Meyrin.
Japanese premium jeweller TASAKI has been renowned worldwide for its luxurious and fashionable jewellery creations made of diamonds, pearls and other precious metals. The house also offers luxury watches from its TASAKI TIMEPIECES collection.
TASAKI’s first luxury timepieces collection was launched in august 2015 in Tokyo. The inaugural line-up was comprised of eleven timepieces from three families: the ‘Odessa’ for both men and women and featuring an original stepped bezel; the modern, innovative ‘refined rebellion’ series, where TASAKI has applied its representative jewellery series designs to luxury timepieces; and the ‘serpentine’ series with its organic, sensual form shaped by snake-like curves that sinuously entwine the timepiece’s body.
TASAKI Odessa Tourbillon
A stand-out model in the ‘Odessa series is the ‘Odessa Tourbillon’. In August 2016, the house released 10 new TASAKI wristwatches – including six “Odessa Chronograph” models and the “Odessa Skeleton”, the first model in the collection with a skeleton design. New jewellery watches were also added to TASAKI’s “refined rebellion” series.
In 2018, TASAKI launched the “balance” luxury watch models. TASAKI “balance” is an iconic jewellery series whose fantastic popularity stems from minimalist, modern designs featuring pearls aligned upon straight bars of metal. Their inspiration is taken from balance balls.
The first batch of “balance” timepieces series featured 17 models: nine for men and eight for ladies. The sharp, clean bars appear on the timepieces’ lugs, while the finely balanced form creates harmony with the rounded casing. The timepieces, equipped with automatic movements, were developed in a partnership with Swiss manufacturer Vaucher.
In 2021, TASAKI introduced a new watch series in collaboration with Fiona Krüger, a Scottish-born designer based in Switzerland. She is the founder of Fiona Krüger Timepieces, the Swiss brand specialised in the production of skull watches. The “FIONA KRÜGER: TASAKI” collection is comprised of two models: Petit Skull and Chaos.
About TASAKI JEWELLERS
Founded by Shunsaku Tasaki in 1954, Tasaki is a prestigious Japanese Jewellery House.
Tasaki’s jewellery creations are inspired by Japan’s lush environment, seascape and the land’s spectacular culture. Their innovative experiments with pearls, diamonds, and sakura-gold, have transformed traditional ideals of beauty and fashion. Tasaki is being adored by customers all over the world who value quality and sustainability. The brand has revolutionised the whole approach to wearing pearls by creating new ways of using them in jewellery.
The brand has a design and manufacturing base in Kobe and a huge flagship shop in Ginza, Tokyo’s luxury neighbourhood. Tasaki is one of the world’s top producers of Akoya pearls. Also known as Japanese pearls, Akoya pearls are valued all around the world for their wonderful sheen. The company also cultivates South Sea Pearls, Tahitian pearls and Mabe pearls.
Tasaki’s pink Sakura Gold has a deeper red hue than regular pink gold. This outstanding gold’s colour stands out whether worn alone or in combination with other materials.
The notable jewellery collections from the House are balance (designed by Thakoon Panichgul), refined rebellion, danger, abstract star, Comet Plus, and Tasaki Atelier (designed by Prabal Gurung).
M/G Tasaki is a jewellery collection produced in exclusive collaboration with the renowned jewellery designer Melanie Georgacopoulos. TASAKI by MHT is collection born from a partnership between French jewellery designer Marie-Hélène de Taillac and TASAKI.
Tasaki’s jewellery collections can be experienced and purchased in their exclusive stores in Japan, Australia, Canada, China, France, China’s Hong Kong SAR, Korea, Monaco, Singapore, Taiwan, United Kingdom and the United States.
Tasaki is also available in the United States at Barneys, New York and Dover Street Market in New York City, Ikram in Chicago, The Webster in Miami, and Capitol in North Carolina.
Chopard is a Switzerland based watchmaking & Jewellery brand founded by Louis-Ulysse Chopard in 1860.
The company has been owned by the Scheufele family of Germany since 1963. In 2020 Chopard celebrated its its 160’th anniversary and the firm is still pervaded by the spirit instilled in it by its founder and nurtured by a blend of fine hand craftsmanship and daring technical developments.
From the founding family to that of Karl Scheufele which took it over in 1963, Chopard continues to be governed by its enduring principles, including a taste for excellence, the pursuit of quality, creativity, innovation, independence, and fundamental human respect.
After modest beginnings, Chopard established itself in the 19th century as a benchmark in the field of precision watches. However, it subsequently experienced a decline that lasted until 1963 when it was bought up by Karl Scheufele.
Along with his wife Karin and his two children, Karl-Friedrich and Caroline, he has shaped the firm’s meteoric and constant growth: from the first Happy Diamonds model to the latest Haute Joaillerie watches stemming from the fertile imagination of Caroline; and right through to the ultra-sophisticated L.U.C watches resulting from the unswerving determination of Karl-Friedrich, the whole world knows and wears Chopard.
Over the past few decades, Chopard has explored global horizons while remaining true to its two core fields of competence: watchmaking and jewellery.
The three Chopard production sites in Meyrin, Pforzheim and Fleurier are dynamic and vibrant hubs where skills are handed down and expertise is cultivated. They provide a setting in which various personalities can express a shared vision and values.
Under the impetus of Karl Scheufele, Chopard’s design and distribution strategy was established in the 1970s and subsequently amplified by his children, Karl-Friedrich and Caroline. Karin and Karl Scheufele continue to chair the group, while Karl-Friedrich and Caroline have been appointed co-presidents.
Karl-Friedrich, a trained goldsmith and watchmaker, is responsible for the men’s watch division, Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier and its related developments, as well as handling the technological and commercial aspects of the company. Caroline, who is fascinated by precious stones and a trained gemmologist, is in charge of design, Haute Joaillerie, boutique organisation and management, along with fragrances and accessories.
History of Chopard
Chopard & Scheufele (1860-1919)
Their respective births in Sonvilier and Pforzheim determined the destiny of Louis-Ulysse Chopard and Karl Scheufele. Fate would one day lead them to cross paths, but for the time being the Chopard family settled in Sonvilier at the heart of the Swiss Jura, while the Scheufeles lived in Pforzheim in the Black Forest region of Germany.
The father of Louis-Ulysse Chopard, Félicien, was an experienced farmer and a man of tradition who encouraged his sons to learn the watchmaking trade. The younger of the two, born on May 4th 1836, showed a particular gift for watchmaking. The ambitious Louis-Ulysse quickly grasped the fact that it was the “comptoirs” or watch dealers that earned the greatest profit from the work of the farmers who assembled movement blanks during the winter season: each spring, the agents picked them up, cased them up and then marketed the finished watches. It was therefore better to work independently, and in 1860, at the age of just 24, he accordingly set up his own L.U.C watch manufactory in Sonvilier.
In order to stand out from its numerous competitors, Chopard specialised in making innovative precision watches featuring sophisticated decoration. The company canvassed customers in Eastern Europe, Russia and Scandinavia to show its finest creations, and the Tsar of Russia soon became a loyal client.
In 1913, Louis-Ulysse placed its first ad for the “Fabrique de montres L.U.C L.-U. Chopard, maison fondée en 1860”. His son Paul-Louis took over the firm shortly afterwards.
At the heart of the Black Forest in Germany, the jewellery industry flourished in the small town of Pforzheim. August 6th 1877 saw the birth of a boy christened Karl Gotthilf, son of Johannes and Sophie Scheufele, in Pforzheim. His parents instilled in him several fundamental values such as boldness, perseverance, an entrepreneurial spirit, as well as a love of fine craftsmanship and of nature. However, his life was turned upside down by the death of his parents and he was placed in an orphanage in Pforzheim, where he learned watchmaking.
Having started out as a sales representative, he launched out on his own in 1904. The contacts he established in the Far East and in Russia lent his company an international dimension. ESZEHA (spelling out the first three letters of his family name as pronounced in German), the manufacturing company run by Karl Scheufele I, made pendants, medals, bracelets, as well as brooches in gold, diamonds and pearls adorned with floral motifs inspired by Art Nouveau.
In 1911, rather than delivering cases and bracelets to Swiss firms, Karl Scheufele I began assembling watches and marketing articles in platinum and gold watches.
In 1912, he scored a great commercial success with a clip serving to attach a pocket-watch to the wrist or to wear it as a necklace. An innovative system at the centre of the bracelet served to house and secure the watch firmly between two ‘paws’. Women were quick to adopt this new way of wearing jewellery.
The Art Deco Craze (1919-1938)
Following the founder’s death on January 30th 1915 in Sonvilier, his son Paul-Louis and his grand-son Paul-André took over the family business. Chopard’s pocket chronometers were extremely popular with elegant men, and its gem-set ladies’ wristwatches were both practical and attractive. Chopard produced extremely accurate timepieces with a high degree of technical sophistication. In 1937, having realised that Sonvilier was virtually unknown on the world map, Chopard relocated to Geneva, a renowned international watchmaking centre.
After World War I had bled Europe dry, Karl Scheufele I anticipated the shift in demand by eliminating jewellery models from his product catalogue and replacing them with watches. He presented his collections in Germany, Austria, Eastern Europe and as far afield as China.
The Art Deco movement revolutionised the decorative arts during the 1920s. Chopard and the Scheufeles made full use of this new trend. The Art Deco influence is particularly visible in Eszeha “wallet watches”, meaning watches incorporated into dedicated cases. The latter, made from Chinese-lacquered or enamelled silver and gold adorned with precious stones and geometrical motifs, concealed tiny travel clocks that were genuine pieces of jewellery.
Karl Scheufele I was considering buying up a watch factory in Switzerland, but the Third Reich made such a move impossible. On August 5th 1941, while out on a walk in the Black Forest with his grandsons Johan and Rüthchen, he died after a heart attack on the eve of his 64th birthday. That same day, his son was wounded on the Russian front. Upon his return in 1942, Karl Scheufele II succeeded his father at the head of the company.
Modern times (1945-1963)
The 1950s saw the birth of highly sought-after Eszeha models featuring original shapes: dials that were hidden or set into small crowns, undulating lugs, bracelets embellished by tiny bows, or broader versions with articulated links.
Weakened by his exertions, Karl Scheufele II entrusted the factory and its 35 employees to the care of his 20 year-old son, Karl III, also a goldsmith and a watchmaker. He passed away in Heidelberg on April 8th 1966.Having inherited his grandfather’s creative bent, Karl Scheufele III began designing impeccably crafted dainty jewellery models and watches. He was keen to make his own movements, and realised the only solution would be to buy up a Swiss manufacturer.
An unexpected event hastened the onset of this new challenge. In 1962, Karl Scheufele III learned that the Geneva-based company with which he had been dealing for years also delivered movement blanks to one of his fiercest competitors. He immediately revoked the contract with this supplier and had an advert published in a number of newspapers, openly stating his intention to purchase a Swiss manufacturing company.
After a period of commercial prosperity, Chopard was clearly on the decline: Paul-André, representing the third generation and undoubtedly an extremely talented watchmaker, was no businessman. This 70 year-old owner was looking to sell the firm and agreed to meet Karl Scheufele III, with whom he shared the same determined attitude, the same practical good sense and innate creativity, as well as the same love of fine craftsmanship. In acquiring this manufacturing company, Karl Scheufele III entered the extremely exclusive club of great Swiss watchmakers.
Karin and Karl Scheufele (1963-1985)
Thanks to his salesmanship skills and his passion for travel, Karl Scheufele III revived Chopard and transformed it into a truly international watch and jewellery brand. The new creations proved both playful and original, as well as of impeccable quality, bringing with them a genuinely innovative touch.
The Chopard look was nurtured by the company roots in the Art Nouveau and Art Deco movements. In 1972, Karl Scheufele III reinterpreted Art Nouveau in a series of plant life-themed watches, starting with Belle Epoque and following on with other nature-inspired collections such as Cascade, Happy Diamonds in 1976, Moonlight and Paradiso.
The Chopard style signature was as multi-facetted as the men and women it won over: deliberately round watches reflected the sensual curves and vivid colours of the 1970s; while broad cuff-watches in onyx, malachite, coral and turquoise combined daring shapes and beautiful gemstones.
In 1972-74, women readily adopted the Jeans watch and its famous denim strap. Between 1970 and 1980, the jewellery industry equivalent of an “Oscar” was annually awarded by German professionals: the Golden Rose of Baden-Baden. Chopard won 15 trophies during this decade, including one for the Happy Diamonds jewellery watch in 1976.
In 1976, inspired by the Concorde, Karl Scheufele created the Concord watch in white gold set with onyx and diamonds. The model was distinguished by a Diamonds International Award – of which Karl Scheufele was to win three in all.
Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele (1985/90 – )
During the 1990s, Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele formed a new leadership tandem, just as their parents had done before them.
Each reinterpreted the family tradition in their own way: Caroline reinvented the ancestral Pforzheim jewellery-making tradition by launching splendid Haute Joaillerie collections, while Karl-Friedrich did the same for watchmaking in Sonvilier by founding a fine watchmaking “Manufacture” in Fleurier 1996. The two complementary partners already shared the same office as they wrote a new chapter in the epic Chopard adventure.
Timeline
1836: May 4, birth of Louis-Ulysse Chopard in Sonvilier, in the Swiss Jura.
1859: Birth of Paul-Louis, son of Louis-Ulysse Chopard.
1860: 24 year-old Louis-Ulysse Chopard founds a high-precision watch manufacture specialising in pocket-watches and chronometers, in Sonvilier, Switzerland.
August 6, 1877: Birth of Karl Gotthilf Scheufele in Pforzheim, Germany.
1904: Founding of the “Karl Scheufele” brand specialising in jewellery watches distributed under the name Eszeha.
1912: Louis-Ulysse Chopard travels to Russia through Poland, Hungary and the Baltic States. Tsar Nicolas II becomes a client. Karl Scheufele I invents the clip-watch.
1913: First ever advertising campaign for Chopard, referred to as “Fabrique de montres L.U.C L.-U- Chopard, maison fondée en 1860”.
1921: Paul-Louis Chopard, who has taken over the family firm, opens a subsidiary company in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
1925: Karl Scheufele I sends his son Karl Scheufele II to New York for two years with 50 dollars in his pocket.
1937: Chopard relocates to Geneva.
1930-1940: Chopard has around 150 employees making pocket-watches and precision wristwatches.
1942: Karl Scheufele II succeeds his father.
1943: Paul-André Chopard, son of Paul-Louis, takes over the Chopard company.
1958: Karl Scheufele III revives Eszeha after a tough period for the company.
1963: Paul-André Chopard sells Chopard to Karl Scheufele III.
1968: Paul-André Chopard dies on October 14.
1972: Launch of the Belle Epoque collection. Chopard wins the Golden Rose of Baden-Baden for the Améthyste watch.
1973: Chopard wins the Golden Rose of Baden-Bdaen for the Pasodoble watch.
1974: The company moves from the centre of Geneva to the new Meyrin-Geneva site.
1975: Creation of a first subsidiary company, “Chopard France”.
1976: Creation of the first Happy Diamonds watch. Chopard wins the Golden Rose of Baden-Baden for the Happy Diamonds and Cascade watches. Chopard wins the Diamond International Awards for the Concorde watch. Creation of the American subsidiary company: “Chopard Watch Corporation “.
1980: Launch of the first sports watch: St. Moritz.
1983: Launch of the Monte Carlo collection. Opening of the first Chopard boutique in Hong Kong.
1985: Launch of the Alta Moda collection for Chopard’s 125th anniversary.
1985: Creation of the Happy Diamonds Clown, the start of jewellery-making at Chopard. Karl-Friedrich and Caroline Scheufele are appointed vice-presidents of the Chopard group.
1986: Launch of the Gstaad collection.
1988: Start of the partnership between Chopard and the Mille Miglia, the legendary classic car rally in Italy. Chopard creates the 1000 Miglia sports watch collection.
1989: Opening of Chopard’s first European boutique, in Vienna.
1990: Launch of the Casmir collection.
1993: Launch of the Happy Sport collection.
1994: Launch of the La Strada and Impériale collections.
1996: The company returns to its roots and founds a watch manufacturing company in Fleurier, in the Swiss Jura, dedicated to the production of mechanical L.U.C movements. Creation of watches on behalf of the Geneva-based affiliate of José Carreras International Leukaemia Foundation, the Fondation José Carreas pour la Lutte contre la Leucémie.
1997: The first L.U.C 1860 watch, equipped with a L.U.C 1.96 movement, is voted “Watch of the Year” by the Swiss Montres Passion/Uhrenwelt magazine. Creation of the world’s most expensive watch at the time, Chopardissimo.
1998: Chopard becomes official partner of the Cannes Film Festival and Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele redesigns the Palme d’Or, from now on crafted in the Chopard workshops. Launch of La Vie en Rose collection.
1999: Launch of the Pushkin and Ice Cube collections. Partnership with the Prince’s Foundation founded by the Prince of Wales.
2000: Presentation of the world-first L.U.C Quattro watch, equipped with a L.U.C 1.98 movement featuring four barrels (two sets of two stacked barrels, patented L.U.C Quattro® technology), endowing the watch with a 9-day power reserve.
2001: Launch of the L.U.C Tonneau model, equipped with the first tonneau-shaped self-winding movement (L.U.C 3.97), fitted with an off-centred micro-rotor. Creation of the Chopard Trophy at the Cannes Film Festival. Caroline and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele become co-presidents of Chopard.
2002: Presentation of a new jewellery concept with the launch of the Golden Diamonds collection. Chopard becomes official timekeeper of the prestigious Grand Prix de Monaco Historique, a classic car race held in Monte Carlo. Launch of the Elton John watch collection on behalf of the Elton John AIDS Foundation.
2003: Presentation of the first L.U.C Tourbillon model, a major technological accomplishment in the field of fine watchmaking. Launch of the new Happy Spirit collection. Creation of a line of Jacky Ickx watches.
2004: Presentation in Baselworld of the L.U.C. Regulator watch, which wins the “Watch of the Year” prize awarded by the Swiss magazine Montres Passion/Uhrenwelt.
2005: Presentation of the L.U.C Lunar One watch, driven by mechanical self-winding L.U.C 96 QP movement, featuring perpetual calendar and orbital moon-phase functions. Launch of the Haute Joaillerie Copacabana collection.
2006: Presentation of the L.U.C Chrono One watch, the first chronograph in the L.U.C collection equipped with Calibre 10CF, to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the Chopard Manufacture. Inauguration of the L.U.CEUM in Fleurier.
2007 : Launch of the Two O Ten watch collection. Inauguration of the new flagship boutique in New York, featuring the new interior design concept, and presentation of the eponymous collection 709 Madison. Introduction of the first Haute Joaillerie Red Carpet collection dedicated to the Cannes Film Festival. Founding of the Japanese subsidiary company, “Chopard Japan Ltd”.
2008 : Launch of the new Elton John chronograph collection in Moscow. “Best Training Company Prize” in the “Applied Arts” category awarded by the State of Geneva and honouring Chopard’s long-term commitment to the field of training and education. Creation of the Fleurier Ebauches SA company.
2009: Baselworld presentation of the L.UC Tourbillon Tech Twist watch equipped with a silicon escapement. Presentation of a high-frequency (10 Hertz) escapement developed by Chopard Technologies. Inauguration of a new flagship boutique in Singapore reflecting the new interior design concept.
2010: Celebration of Chopard’s 150th anniversary. Chopard unveils four new L.U.C Calibers: : the All in One, the L.U.C Louis-Ulysse Tribute, the Engine One and the L.U.C 1937.
2013: Marks 20th anniversary of its iconic Happy Sport collection. Launch of the new Happy Sport watch for the first time with an automatic movement.
2014: Launch of the first Chopard watch in Fairmined gold: the L.U.C Tourbillon QF Fairmined.
2015: Launch of Chopard Palme Verte, the first diffusion jewellery collection crafted in Fairmined gold.
Chopard & Classic Racing
Devotees of fine automobiles tend to have a weakness for beautiful timepieces, and vice versa. In both cases, sporting elegance and the quest for performance play a decisive role.
Lifting the hood of a car provides an understanding of what is going on inside the engine, and the same goes for horological mechanisms that may be admired through a watch case-back. Today, true aficionados can be recognised by their choice of watch: a technical enthusiast will go for a complicate mechanical watch, while car-lovers will opt for a 1000 Miglia, a Jacky Ickx or a Grand Prix de Monaco Historique model.
Karl-Friedrich shares his father’s hobby. Together, they have built up a collection of remarkable cars, with the son showing a preference for pre-war and post-war English and German Cars (Bentley, Ferrari, Aston Martin, Porsche… and Mini Cooper); and the father for elegant post-war sports models.
It was thus obvious that Chopard would become involved in the world of classic car racing. In addition to the Mille Miglia and the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique, the brand’s commitment to Classic Racing goes back to the 1980s – and in fact even earlier, since Karl Scheufele’s grandfather was already fascinated by these finely tuned mechanisms. Historical highlights include Chopard’s participation in the Rallye des Alpes in 1993; and an unexpected race around Moscow’s Red Square in 1994.
Rebirth of the “Manufacture”
Watch companies that develop and produce their own components and watches entirely in-house are a rarity. Convinced that the company should make its own watch movements in order to honour its horological past, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele persuaded his father – and the family council – that the future lay in mechanical watches. Karl Scheufele allowed his son to proceed with preparations, and the project was secretly launched in 1993.
In order to create an original calibre, Karl-Schuefele chose the most complex path: the movement was to be equipped with a micro-rotor to ensure maximum flexibility; automatic winding in both directions to enhance reliability; a substantial power reserve; and the possibility of integrating complications. It was also to feature original execution and aesthetics. The fledgling “Manufacture” was set up in the Val-de-Travers to ensure discretion, and work on Calibre ASP 94 began in 1993.
However, having proved to be far too noisy and unsuited to the desired production strategy, it was subsequently abandoned. The final version of the new movement was presented at Christmas 2005 in the form of 20 prototypes of Calibre 1.96.
Operational testing on the new movement was conducted in Fleurier, where modest rented premises accommodated the ultra-modern production unit in 1996. As activities began to expand, the building was bought up and completely restored in 2000. From the initial dozen or so employees, the workforce in Fleurier has grown to 145 people.
Over 45 million Swiss francs have been invested. In 2006, to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, an avid timepiece collector, inaugurated the L.U.CEUM, where historical watches and clocks dating from 1500 to the present day rub shoulders with models from the Chopard L.U.C collection.
In keeping with its determination to achieve vertical integration, Chopard has created Fleurier Ebauches, an entity owned by the Chopard group and producing watch movements blanks in order to enhance verticalisation and increase its movement and component production.
Hamilton is a Swiss watch brand. It was originally founded in the United States.
Founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, in 1892, Hamilton creates watches with a unique balance of authenticity and innovation. Hamilton’s timepieces synchronized the first railroads and kept time for aviation pioneers and U.S. soldiers. A favorite of filmmakers for decades, Hamilton watches have appeared in more than 500 movies, with custom pieces playing a pivotal role in several Hollywood blockbusters.
With a continued commitment to craftsmanship and accuracy, Hamilton launched the world’s first electric watch in 1957 and the first LED digital watch in 1970.
Since 1974, Hamilton has been a part of the Swatch Group, the global leader in watch manufacturing and distribution. In 2003, the brand moved its HQ and production to the center of watchmaking country in Biel, Switzerland.
Hamilton’s modern timepieces combine the American spirit with true Swiss precision.
The story begins at the time Christian VI was King of Denmark and Norway, Duke of Schleswig-Holstein, a child named Jürgen Jürgensen was born, and he was to have great significance for watchmaking history. He was both the father of the most famous Danish watchmaker Urban Jürgensen and at the same time the founding father of the horological dynasty which was to revolutionize the outdated structures of the clock and watchmaking craft in Denmark and Switzerland. Through their use of new theoretical findings and practical working methods, they subsequently achieved the highest recognition both in Denmark and Switzerland.
Among the world’s greatest watchmakers of the 18th and 19th centuries, members of the Jürgensen family, notably Urban and Jules, worked alongside other horological geniuses such as Houriet, Breguet, Berthoud and Arnold. They have greatly contributed to the development of horology.
The watchmaking family’s roots stretch back to eighteenth century Denmark and Jörgen Jurgensen (1745-1811), founder of the dynasty. The most eminent watchmakers amongst his descendants are undisputedly his sons Urban (1776-1830) and Jules-Frederik Jûrgensen (1808-1877).
The latter two continued their father’s business by founding Urban Jürgensen & Sonner in Switzerland. Jules moved to Le Locle, Switzerland while his brother Louis was in charge of the factory in Copenhagen. After Louis Urban’s and Jules-Frederik’s deaths, the company went through several more changes of ownership but continued the tradition of chronometric timepieces.
Historical Chronometer Movement
Urban Jürgensen was one of the world’s most prominent watchmakers in the 18th century and contributed significantly to horological developments in fine mechanical watchmaking. As a result of his efforts, he was awarded an appointment as Royal Purveyor to King Frederik VI of Denmark and conferred the honour of the Royal Order of the Dannebrog, regularly supplying timepieces to the court and ship’s chronometers to the Danish Admiralty.
A brilliant and multifaceted talent, Urban Jürgensen achieved great international acclaim for his innovations in technology and science, gaining equal status with his scientific contemporaries. The results of his research were published in 1804 in a series of articles in Danish, French and German, earning him a place in the Royal Danish Academy of Sciences and Letters. He was a brilliant engineer, a visionary far ahead of his time in many respects regarding creativity and aesthetics. As a horologist, inventor and aesthete, he must be considered one of the great talents in Denmark’s history.
Urban Jürgensen
Following the wish of his father Jürgen, Urban Jürgensen, spent a major part of his training as a watchmaker in Paris, London, Geneva and Le Locle in the Canton of Neuchatel, Switzerland. It was under his management that both pocket watches and precision timekeepers for navigation and astronomy made by the Urban Jürgensen Company achieved international fame and recognition. The Danish King, Frederick VI, granted Urban Jürgensen a Royal Appointment to supply the court with watches and the Danish Admiralty with chronometers.
The use of first class materials and the extremely robust design of all the timekeepers made by the company soon made them highly coveted collector’s items, as is still the case today.
In accordance with the practice of the times, Urban Jürgensen’s sons also entered the watchmaking profession and following their father’s footsteps, traveled abroad to study and apprentice as watchmakers. After receiving recognition as masters, they joined their father’s company officially. This led to a change in the company’s structure, which was expressed in the name Urban Jürgensen & Sønner, the same title used by the company today. The sons and grandchildren of this generation went on to ensure the Jürgensen dynasty’s continued existence into the 20th century. One member of the family, Jules Jürgensen, ended up not only studying, but later settling permanently in Le Locle in the 1830s, where he was responsible for an official manufacture under the Urban Jürgensen & Sønner name.
This is the reason why the cities of Copenhagen and Le Locle are incorporated inthe company logo, as a reference to the Danish and Swiss roots of the firm together with the date of its initial founding. The Jürgensen, with their analytical approach to the processes and methods of watch production, exercised a tremendous influence on the watchmaking industry of Le Locle,and indeed the entire Canton of Neuchatel, introducing the most modern methods to the Swiss industry of the era, for which they received many accolades and were endowed with honorary status from the city of Le Locle.
In 1981, Peter Baumberger, a trained watchmaker and passionate collector, acquired Urban Jürgensen & Sonner and is the congenial successor of Urban Jürgensen’s spirit. Dr Helmut Crott became the guardian of the brand since his friend Mr Baumberger’s death.
Since its establishment, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner always cultivated a policy of maximum quality in the art of horology, with particular efforts directed at the technical perfection of the movement combined with artistically designed cases, dials and hands of classical elegance.
Jürgensen Dynasty Jürgen Jürgensen (1745 -1811): Jürgen Jürgensen was born in 1745 in Copenhagen. Between 1759 and 1765 he worked with Johnas Jacob Lincke as an apprentice. In 1768 Jürgen Jürgensen moved to Le Locle and worked with Jacques-Frédéric Houriet, the renowned Swiss watch maker who was known as the Father of Swiss Chronometry.
He established a watchmaking factory in Copenhagen in 1775 and he coined the brand name Larpent & Jürgensen in 1780s in partnership with Isaac Larpent, a renowned Danish watch maker. In 1781 Larpent & Jürgensen started the production of pocket watches. In 1784, Jürgen Jürgensen was appointed as the Court horologist by King Fredrik VI.
Urban Jürgensen (1775 -1830): Urban Jürgensen was born in 1775 in Copenhagen. Following the footsteps of father, Urban Jürgensen travelled all the way to Le Locle to study precision timekeeping with Houriet. Under the guidance of this genius horologer, young Urban brushed up his watchmaking skills. Urban Jürgensen married Sophie-Henriette Houriet, daughter of his master.
Jacques-Frédéric Houriet & His Daughter, Sophie-Henriette Houriet
In 1798, Urban Jürgensen introduced the steel cylinder escape wheel. He then moved to Paris to study with Breguet, and in the following year he travelled to London to study with Arnold. In 1801, Urban Jürgensen introduced his Bimetallic Thermometer.
In 1810, Urban Jürgensen started the production of marine Chronometers and in the same year he was awarded the Daneborg order, a prestigious award by the king of Denmark. In 1815, Urban Jürgensen was accepted into the Royal Danish Academy of Science, a non-governmental science Academy, founded in 1742 for the advancement of science in Denmark.
Marine Chronometer, Circa 1811
In 1818, Urban Jürgensen started the supply of Marine and deck chronometers to the Royal navy.In 1821, Urban Jürgensen introduced the famous Krusenstern Chronometers and in the following year he announced his new, detached double wheel chronometer escapement.
Krusenstern Chronometer
Louis Urban Jürgensen and Jules Jürgensen: In 1830, on demise of Urban Jürgensen, his two sons Louis Urban and Jules continue the company under the name UJS (Urban Jürgensen & Sønner). In the same year Louis Urban Jürgensen introduced his first marine chronometer.
In the following years, Jules Jürgensen introduced precision horology and quality improvements into the manufactures of Canton Neuchatel, settling permanently in Le Locle. Jules Jürgensen Copenhagen was established.
In 1836, UJS received the Grand medal of the Copenhagen Industrial Exhibition. In 1850s legendary watchmakers Victor Kullberg and Moritz Grossmann were worked for Louis Urban Jürgensen. In 1852, Louis Urban Jürgensen awarded 2 medals at the Great exhibition in London.
In 1867, Jules Jürgensen patented his hand setting mechanism. In 1871, Jules Jürgensen was awarded a gold medal at the maritime exhibition in Naples. In 1873, Jules Jürgensen was awarded a gold medal at the Copenhagen industrial exhibition and in 1874 he was awarded Knight of the Legion d’Honneur.
Jacques Alfred Jürgensen: In 1893, Jacques Alfred Jürgensen was awarded gold medal at the international exhibition in Chicago and he received a gold medal at the National exhibition in Geneva in 1896. In 1912, Jacques Alfred Jürgensen died.
1912 – No More a Family Owned Company
After the death of Jacques Alfred Jürgensen, the last watch maker from the family, the company and brand names were transferred to the hands of new owner. In 1919, Jules Jürgensen Copenhagen started to manufacture wristwatches. The control of company, which had production sites at Copenhagen and Le Locle passed through several hands such as E. Heuer (From 1919 – 1936), Aisenstein-Woronock (From 1936 – 1974) and Mort Clayman (From 1974 to 1979). The New York based watch business group Aisenstein-Woronock & Sons continued to produce watches under the Jules Jürgensen brand name and they were mainly marketed in USA. Mort Clayman, who took over the brand in 1974, did not succeed to revive the legendary watch brand.
1980s – Revival of the brand in its original spirit
In 1980s, Peter Baumberger, a trained watchmaker and passionate collector, acquired Urban Jürgensen & Sonner and is the congenial successor of Urban Jürgensen’s spirit. P. Baumberger with his small team of skilled master watchmakers produced small series of traditionally made, complicated timepieces, ranging from 50 to 300 examples, at the privately-owned firm in Bienne, Switzerland.
In 1979, Peter Baumberger was granted permission by the owner of the UJS brand to sign his watches Urban Jürgensen & Sønner. From1982, he commercially launched Urban Jürgensen & Sønner Ref. 1 Calendar Chronograph in limited edition of 186 pieces, which heralded the revival of the legendary watch brand. In 1985, Peter Baumberger formally acquired Urban Jürgensen & Sønner.
Derek Pratt became the master watchmaker for Urban Jürgensen .This extremely talented watchmaker realized many exclusive pieces for the brand including the “Tribute Oval Tourbillon Pocket watch” – a one-of-the kind timepiece referring to all the watchmakers he admired. He passed away in 2009.
Tribute Oval Tourbillon Pocket watch
In 1990, Peter Baumberger presented the Ref. 2 Perpetual calendar wrist watch, produced in 62 examples. The models ref 3 to ref 10 followed. These watches signed under Urban Jürgensen & Sønner brand name were produced in small series from 50 up to a maximum of 300 examples. These watches were mainly based on ébauche movements from Frédéric Piguet, Le Brassus.
UJS Reference 10 – Perpetual Calender Small Seconds
In 2003, Peter Baumberger initiated his plan for a new in house calibre and in 2008; he acquired a worldwide patent for the new in house calibre with a detent escapement. In 2009, a prototype wristwatch with the patented detent escapement is presented for the first time at Baselworld. Unfortunately, the sudden demise of Peter Baumberger in 2009 resulted a huge loss to Urban Jürgensen & Sønner and Switzerland’s traditional watch making industry.
After Peter Baumberger’ death, his friend and horology specialist, Dr Helmut Crott took over as CEO of Urban Jürgensen & Sønner. Dr Helmut Crott became the owner of Urban Jürgensen & Sønner and Jules Jürgensen, and both brands began to operate under same roof. Dr Helmut Crott, a medical doctor turned horology specialist has been associated with horology industry since 1972 as a consultant of fine luxury watches.
Dr Helmut Crott
In 2011, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner presented the prototype of the breakthrough UJS-P8movement. The newly introduced Urban Jürgensen Reference 11 represents the first time thatthe chronometer escapement has been used in a wristwatch. The invention is the result of several years’ development work and has been patented worldwide.
2014: Urban Jürgensen Back in Danish Hands
In the case of Urban Jürgensen’s 240 years of history there were several events that can be described as historic recurrence, the most recent happened in 2013 and it lead to Urban Jürgensen returning to Danish ownership.
In 1976, the 200th anniversary of Urban Jürgensen’s birth was celebrated by the watchmaker’s guild in Copenhagen. At the same time, the shop bearing Jürgensen’s name had a small exhibition of timepieces from the past. A young watchmaker by the name Peter Baumberger was passing through Copenhagen looking for antiques when he saw the exhibition in the shop.Peter Baumberger had a vision whilst standing there in Gundesen’s shop. Of course Urban Jürgensen’s timepieces were well known to him, but the idea of buying the shop, including the trademark “Urban Jürgensen”, was a challenge that was too irresistible for him. In 1979, UJS owner granted permission to Peter Baumberger to sign his watches Urban Jürgensen & Sønner. He finally acquired the Company in 1985.
In 2013, the story would repeat itself when a Danish watch collector was presented with an Urban Jürgensen watch in the store that used to be Urban Jürgensen’s atelier centuries ago.
He was looking for the perfect gentleman’s watch; the sales manager proceeded to hand him an Urban Jurgensen Ref. 2 in yellow gold. He was stunned by the sheer level of handcraft and attention to detail the Urban Jurgensen watch exuded and ended up being the lucky owner of number 23 of this limited edition watch. He was given the book “The Jurgensen Dynasty” which helped him to learn about the company’s 240 year history. The choices the company had made in execution of the handcrafted watch were simply awe inspiring.
This watch collector was Soren Petersen and for him as Peter Baumberger felt 40 years prior, the idea of acquiring the Urban Jürgensen company was a challenge to irresistible to pass. After 30 years of foreign ownership, the 14th of November 2014, a Danish Private Investment Group took over the company, included in this group was Soren Petersen, who was appointed President and CEO.
For the past 30 years, Peter Baumberger, Derek Pratt and lately Dr. Helmut Crott has been steering the company forward with concepts for new calibres and a clear foundation for the 21st century. The new ownership plans to build upon this foundation producing complicated timepieces in classically beautiful styles deploying the traditional highly specialized forms of craftsmanship that will honour the long established timeless traditions of the company.
UJS-P8 movement
In 2011, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner presented the prototype of the breakthrough UJS-P8 movement, the world’s first wristwatch movement utilizing a chronometer escapement, thus connecting the marine chronometers and clocks made by the firm in the 18th and 19th centuries directly to the world of watchmaking in the 21st. The extreme precision and accuracy of the detent escapement, which lies at the heart of defining a true chronometer, ranks far above the tourbillon in accuracy and horological importance.
Pivoted Detent Escapement
Nonetheless, until now it was considered an impossibility to successfully implement it in a modern wristwatch. In the 18th and 19th centuries it was used exclusively in ship’s chronometers, built to withstand the motion of the open sea, always with the dial facing upwards in a gimbal mounting and set within a closed box. The demands on a detent escapement fit for the21st century are quite different indeed. In today’s world, the day-to-day shocks of life on the wrist are extreme compared to this marine environment and therefore the original escapement concept had to be altered.
Additionally, this step required smaller dimensions in order to make the detent escapement practical and accurate for modern times. After several years of research and the expenditure of vast funds, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner were successful in creating a new detent movement and far beyond that – the new movement was found to be so robust that it passed Chronofiable® testing, one of the toughest standards in Switzerland for wrist watches, with flying colours. This success closed the circle between the company’s past and present, in an elegant and mechanically perfect way, completely in line with the company’s standards and traditions.
Unveiled at Baselworld 2011, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner’s Reference P8 Chronometer is the world’s first wristwatch with a detent escapement. The new Chronometer P8 “with detent escapement” – adapted to the mechanical wristwatch – achieves a 40% better timing performance than the average COSC certified chronometer.
The collection was again updated in the following years P8 Chronometer Ref. 11C Automatic (2012) and Montre observatoire émail dial – Limited Edition (2013). At Baselworld 2014, Urban Jürgensen & Sonner presented the Tourbillon Minute Repeater Enamel Regulator and the Reference 11 C P8Chronometer with Central Second.
240 years of legacy
In 2013 the book, The Jürgensen Dynasty – Four centuries of watchmaking in two countries (in English) by John M.R. Knudsen was published and this book provides the full history of a unique family of watchmakers. First published exclusively in Danish and quickly sold out, this new and completely updated English edition (2013) provides the full history of a unique family of watchmakers in 368 pages and more then 560 illustrations.
2021
A team of passionate investors led by master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen acquired Urban Jürgensen. Now onwards, after Sales Service of all Urban Jürgensen watches will be led by Venla Voutilainen, working in close collaboration with her father, Kari.
Leijona a historic watch brand that proudly keeps an enduring relationship with two countries: Switzerland and Finland.
Leijona means Lion in Finnish language. The brand traces its history to the last decades of the 19th century. Initially, Leijona watches were made in Switzerland. Since then, it has remained a popular watch brand in Finland. However, after the quartz crisis, the production of Leijona watches has been moved out from the country.
Finnish company Perkko has collaborated with Master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen and launched Leijona Heritage Collection as a tribute to the brand’s Swiss origins. This new series is comprised of Swiss made watches produced in the valley of Val-de-Travers.
Leijona watch brand was originated in the famous watchmaking valley of Val-de-Travers in Switzerland. Since 1892, a watchmaking company named Manufacture d’Horlogerie Lion SA had been the location where the watches bearing the distinct twin-tailed Leijona logo were made. The same logo, however, had already appeared on some of the pocket watches created by Albert Kenel in the 1880s, who would later be hired to work at the Lion factory.
The first importer of the Leijona watch in Finland was J.W. Lindroos, a watch wholesaler and retailer based in Tampere. The first documented appearance of a Leijona watch in Finland was recorded in 1907, but Lindroos may very well have imported Leijona watches at an earlier period in time as well.
Voutilainen X Leijona Heritage 1907 Jalo
The last decade of the 18th century was a period of great unrest in Finland. The popularity of the Fennoman (Finnish nationalist) movement, which sought to establish the dominance of Finnish culture and the Finnish language in a country that was still ruled by the Russian Empire, was increasing by the day.
The Russianization policy at the turn of the century also contributed to the popularity of this historic movement. Many everyday items were given Finnish names, and so J.W. Lindroos decided to register his new Lion watches under the equivalent Finnish brand name “Leijona”.
The Finnish Coat of Arms has featured a lion since the Middle Ages, and it is most likely for this reason that the Leijona watch became a symbol that the populace could use to discretely show which side they stood on. While this may sound like a small gesture, it was anything but – even the act of displaying the wrong type of painting (for example, Edvard Isto’s “The Attack”, where the three-headed Russian eagle attacks the Finnish Maiden) could result in exile.
Voutilainen X Leijona Heritage 1907 Oiva Classic
The use of wristwatches became more widespread in Finland during the wars, and the Leijona watch could be seen on the wrists of those fighting for the independence and freedom of Finland during the Second World War. Finns have worn their Leijona watches as they reconstructed the country, educated themselves and gained new success across the globe. During all of this, the Leijona watch would always remain the best-selling timepiece in Finland, and the history of the Leijona watch encompasses hundreds of thousands of touching personal stories of success and loss.
On the 8th of November 1918, three brothers (Jalo, Urho and Oiva Perkko) founded a company bearing their family name, Oy Perkko Ab. One year later, they would purchase J.W. Lindroos’ business. Their brand portfolio now encompassed the watches made by Omega, Tissot, Certina, Rado, Leijona, Pierre Balmain and Jaz.
In 1939, Perkko became the first watch company in Finland to launch a gross price system to stabilize the retail prices of watches. The previous net price system had introduced an element of uncertainty to the market when it came to determining the “right price” of a watch.
Voutilainen X Leijona Heritage 1907 Urho Chrono
The Second World War would also cast its shadow on the Perkko family: the company’s managing clerk, C.U. Bergman, and Ensio Perkko, the son of managing director Jalo Perkko, perished on the front in 1941. The following year, Jalo himself died from his grief, after which his position in the company was passed on to his beloved wife, Esteri.
To honor the life’s work of her late spouse, in 1943 Esteri Perkko made the remarkable decision to donate 500,000 Finnish marks to the establishment of the Finnish School of Watchmaking. The school began its operations only a few months later in February 1944.
A lack of currency, strong import regulations and high tariffs created a good opportunity for smuggling activities. Coffee, watches, tobacco and money soon became the most smuggled items to Finland. Leijona watches would also become a popular item with smugglers, as tens of thousands of Leijona wristwatches were smuggled to the country.
The ever-popular Leijona watches were easy to smuggle as, by the 50s, the watches were manufactured in numerous Swiss watch factories across Switzerland. For its part, the Perkko Company attempted to restrain these activities by registering the Leijona trademark in Sweden, which had served as the main thoroughfare for watch smugglers, and by having its factories stamp the letter P on each genuine Leijona watch.
In the 70s, Quartz watches became increasingly widespread and completely disrupted the market for traditional mechanical watches. The Swiss watchmaking industry was badly behind in the development of its quartz machineries, and it was decided at this time that the production of Leijona watches would be moved from Switzerland to Japan, which would allow for more affordable consumer prices and further increase the popularity of the Leijona brand.
Leijona is Finland’s oldest and best-selling watch brand of all time, with hundreds of thousands of satisfied consumers. Despite the fact that the Leijona watch has always been considered a “Finnish watch”, its origins lie in Switzerland. With the new Heritage Collection, the Leijona watch now returns to Switzerland and the same famous watchmaking valley of Val-de-Travers from which it once departed, but this time to the village of Môtiers and the studio of Kari Voutilainen, the Finnish watchmaker extraordinaire. A new page in history has been turned.
During the era of Finnish import regulations in the 1950s, Oy Perkko Ab stamped every watch that came through its official channels with its own stamp to weed out the market for smuggled Leijona watches.
To honor the company’s past, this same stamp can be seen in the back of Heritage Collection watches which has a solid caseback (Oiva & Jalo).
Leijona Heritage 1907 Collection
In 2017, Perkko, the Finnish company that owns the Leijona watch brand decided to create a Swiss made watch collection inspired by its history and approached master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen for this project.
The conceptual design of this milestone collection was done in Finland by Perkko. The Leijona Heritage watches are manufactured in Switzerland under the proficient supervision of Voutilainen.
The cases are manufactured by Voutilainen & Cattin SA who also assembles the complete watches. The dials are made by Comblémine SA, the dial manufactory established by Kari Voutilainen. The straps are made by Rhein Fils.
Inspired by the historic Leijona watches, this series is comprised of three different models – Jalo, Urho and Oiva – representing the first names of the three Perkko brothers. The Leijona Heritage 1907 collection now includes three categories: Classic (Oiva and Môtiers), Sport (Jalo) and Chronograph (Urho).
The Leijona Môtiers Classic Limited Edition celebrates the collaboration between Leijona and Kari Voutilainen, as well as the village of Môtiers, located in the valley of Val-de-Travers, where the watches are produced. The blue color of the dial invokes the atmosphere of Val-de-Travers, and blue is also the favorite color of Voutilainen. Introduced in 2019, this timepiece was limited to 50 pieces. Sold out.
Dimensions of case: width 39 mm & thickness 11,6 mm
Dial colour: Blue sky
Crystal: Sapphire
Caliber: Sellita SW200-1 self-winding movement
Case material: Stainless steel
Strap material and colour: alligator leather, brown
Strap dimensions: width 20 mm
Water resistance: 30 m
Power reserve: 38 hours
Price: 2,790 Euros
Origin: Swiss Made
Leijona Heritage 1907 Oiva Classic
The Leijona Oiva Classic automatic wristwatch is inspired by the style of the Leijona watches made in the 1950s. Its clean and harmonious appearance exudes a timeless sense of style that makes a real statement.
The name of the model is a reference to one of the founding brothers of Oy Perkko Ab, Oiva Perkko. Oiva was the oldest of the brothers and very skilled goldsmith in his own right. He served as the director of the store that the brothers purchased from J.W. Lindroos. Oiva was known for his restrained and balanced nature, and these qualities can be seen in this namesake watch as well.
Equipped with the Sellita SW200-1 self-winding movement, this stainless steel watch is available in two dial colors: Graphite Black and White.
Technical details
Case: Stainless steel
Thickness: 11.6 mm
Width without the crown: 39 mm
Width with the crown: 42.60 mm
Lug to Lug: 48.72 mm
Dial: Graphite Black/ White
Strap width: 20 mm
Crystal: Sapphire, 1.5 mm thick
Movement: Sellita SW200-1, power reserve 38 h
Water resistance: 30 m
Price: 2,590 Euros
Origin: Swiss Made
Leijona Heritage 1907 Jalo
Leijona Jalo Sport is a practical and robust watch that is also equally elegant and sporty in appearance. The design of the watch is based on the style of the Leijona watches made in the 1960s.
Jalo Sport Royal Blue, Reference: 19.200.01.310
Jalo Sport is named after Jalo Perkko, one of the three founding brothers of the company and the company’s beloved managing director who was famed for his honest nature and bold initiatives.
Jalo Sport Sunburst Gray, Reference: 19.200.01.410
This stainless steel watch has a water resistance of 100 meters. It houses the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement. The Leijona Heritage Jalo Sport model is available in two dial versions: Royal Blue and Sunburst Gray.
Technical details
Case: Stainless steel
Thickness: 13.20 mm
Width without the crown: 45 mm
Width with the crown: 48.60 mm
Lug to Lug: 53.50 mm
Dial: Royal Blue/ Sunburst Gray
Strap: Leather & rubber hybrid strap made by Rhein Fils
Strap width: 22 mm
Crystal: Sapphire, 1.65 mm thick
Movement: Sellita SW200-1, power reserve 38 h
Water resistance: 100 m
Price: 2,590 Euros
Origin: Swiss Made
Leijona Heritage 1907 Urho
The Urho Chronograph is a testament to the daring speed and aesthetic qualities of the 1970s. Urho Perkko was the youngest of the three founding brothers and a highly skilled watchmaker. Urho was responsible for the company’s office in Vyborg, and he was known for his meticulous nature and acute sense of style.
Urho Chrono Black, Reference: 19.100.01.210
This stainless steel automatic chronograph watch is equipped with the Sellita SW510 BH movement. Measuring 42mm in diameter, the watch is water resistant to 100 meters.
Urho Chrono White Panda, Reference: 19.100.01.110
The Leijona Heritage 1907 Urho chronograph is available in three dial versions: Black, White Panda and Toivo (with deep blue sky dial with satin silver sub-dials).
Harry Winston is one of the prestigious Jewellery houses in the world. This jewellery making empire was established by the legendary American jeweller Harry Winston (1896 –1978) in New York in 1932. Known as the King of Diamonds, he owned some of the world’s most famous gemstones, including the Jonker, Hope and Winston Legacy Diamonds.
In 1989, the House of Harry Winston entered the world of watchmaking. The brand’s flagship watch collections are: The Premier, the Avenue, the Ocean and the Midnight. Harry Winston’s Opus and Histoire de Tourbillon series showcases the brand’s innovative approach to high mechanical watchmaking.
In 2004 Harry Winston pioneered the use of Zalium™ in watchmaking. The House’s Jewelry Timepieces perfectly pair the high quality craftsmanship of the “King of Diamonds,” with the time-honored traditions of fine Swiss watchmaking, to further the breathtaking creative legacy of Harry Winston.
In 2007, Harry Winston opened of its own watch manufacture in Geneva. Acquired by Swatch Group in 2013, Harry Winston now benefits from the prized expertise of the world’s leading watch manufacturer.
Headquartered in New York, Harry Winston, Inc. operates retail salons worldwide, in locations including: New York, Beverly Hills, London, Paris, Tokyo, Hong Kong and Shanghai.
Timeline
1896: Harry Winston is born in New York.
1920: Harry Winston opens his first business, The Premiere Diamond Company, at 535 Fifth Avenue in Manhattan.
1932: Debut of the newly founded Harry Winston salon, located in Rockefeller Center in New York.
1933: Harry Winston marries Edna Fleishman, a style arbiter in her own right, who will remain his life-long confidante and muse.
1943: Harry Winston is the first jeweler to lend jewelry to an actress for the Academy Awards. Jennifer Jones wears classic Winston diamonds when she accepts an Oscar for Best Actress.
1947: Katherine Hepburn Attends the Academy Awards wearing Harry Winston’s famous Inquisition Necklace.
1949: Harry Winston purchases the Hope Diamond.
1949 to 1953: Harry Winston’s first exhibition of rare gems travels throughout the United States. The “Court of Jewels” includes the Hope Diamond and other legendary gems. Proceeds from the show are donated to the March of Dimes.
1955: Harry Winston opens in Geneva, Switzerland followed by a 1957 opening in Paris.
1958: Harry Winston donates the Hope Diamond to the National Museum of Natural History of the United States.
1960: Harry Winston moves to a distinguished townhouse on Fifth Avenue and 56th Street, designed by famed French interior-designer Stephane Boudin of Jansen.
1962: Harry Winston appoints Ambaji V. Shinde from India as head designer. Shinde’s creations revolutionize jewelry design.
1967: Winston acquires a 241-carat uncut diamond, which produces an exceptional 69.42 carat pear shaped jewel. The gem is purchased by Richard Burton for his wife, Elizabeth Taylor. The Magnificent gem becomes known around the world as the Taylor-Bu on diamond.
1978: Harry Winston dies in New York.
1986: A Harry Winston salon opens in Beverly Hills on Rodeo drive. To commemorate the event, a cake studded with diamonds is created.
1988: Harry Winston opens in Tokyo on the Ginza.
1989: Harry Winston introduces a collection of watches known as “Ultimate Timepieces.”
1995: Harry Winston introduces the Perpetual Bitretograde Calendar timepiece.
1997: The Harry Winston Gallery at the Smithsonian Institution opens with the Hope Diamond as its centerpiece. Harry Winston becomes the only jeweler to have a museum gallery in its name.
1998: Gwyneth Paltrow wears a Harry Winston Princess Necklace & iconic Cluster earrings to win her Academy Award.
2001: Harry Winston introduces the Opus Series, creating an exceptional timepiece annually in partnership with one of Switzerland’s most gifted haute horologists. Halle Berry, wearing Winston’s Pumpkin Diamond Ring, becomes the first African American woman to win an Academy Award for Best Actress.
2004: Harry Winston continues its worldwide expansion, opening salons in Las Vegas and Taipei. Richard Avedon photographs an advertising campaign for Harry Winston. It is his last commercial work. Aber Diamond Corporation purchases a majority interest in Harry Winston, Inc., combining the strategic “bookends” of the diamond business—mining & retail.
2005: Harry Winston opens new salons in Miami and Honolulu.
2006: Harry Winston opens in London, Dallas, and Omotesando, Tokyo. Aber acquires 100 % owner ship of Harry Winston. Inspired by Harry Winston’s love of Nature, the “Natural History Campaign” debuts in New York.
2007: Harry Winston opens a new watch manufacture in Geneva, Switzerland, the watch making capital of the world. Harry Winston debuts on the New York Stock Exchange, trading under the symbol HWD. Salons open in Beijing, Chicago, and Hong Kong.
2008: A new salon opens in South Coast Plaza , Orange County, California.
2009: The “Ultimate Design” program is unveiled, inviting clients to commission one-of-a-kind jewels inspired by the Winston archives. The New York Collection debuts, celebrating the unsurpassable style, spirit, and glamour of Manhattan. Winston opens its 19th global retail salon in Singapore. Harry Winston celebrates the Hope Diamond by designing a new setting for the legendary gem.
2010: Harry Winston launches the Lily Cluster Collection.
2013: Harry Winston acquires the 101.73 carat Winston Legacy Diamond. Aber Diamond Corporation sells Harry Winston Inc., to the Swatch Group. The transaction includes the brand and all the activities related to jewellery and watches, including employees worldwide and the production company in Geneva, Switzerland.
2015: Harry Winston, Inc. appoints American singer, songwriter, and producer Robin Thicke, as its timepiece ambassador.
With 15 million watches sold throughout the world during the more than 130 years of uninterrupted activity since its creation, West End is an iconic Swiss watch brand.
West End Watch Co was founded in 1886 in Bombay by the Swiss company Droz & Amstutz. This company acted as distributor of the watches manufactured by Alcide Droz & Fils in the Swiss Jura and sold in India under the West End brand name.
Established 1864, the company Alcide Droz & Sons was based in St-Imier. In India, West End watches proved their excellence in their use from the end of the 19th century by all the staff of the main railway companies, the post and telegraph offices, the police, the ports and the Indian and British government administrative services.
The elite corps of the Imperial Army of India had already been able to test out and appreciate the robustness and reliability of West End watches in extreme conditions. It was due to this good reputation that during the First World War British Army troops, including elite Indian corps, who were based in the Middle East with the aim of breaking up the German-Turkish coalition, necessarily wore West End watches.
No less than 50,000 West End watches were in fact acquired by the British Army to equip its troops, notably Lawrence of Arabia’s famous Camel Corps and the Royal Air Force.
In 1917, the Société des Montres West End SA was formed in Geneva in order to promote the marketing of the brand name throughout the world.
In the course of the following decades, West End established itself as an outstanding brand of Swiss watches, producing millions of wristwatches for markets ranging from the Red Sea to China. In 2001, the brand was taken over by the Monnat family and transferred to Leytron, in the Canton of Valais, in the heart of the Swiss Alps.
In 2005, the company celebrated its 120th anniversary of uninterrupted presence in Asia with the introduction of its “Silk Road concept”.
In 2009, West End Watch Co launched special edition “Queen Anne” watch in 18 ct solid gold to commemorate the brand’s 120th anniversary. In 2016, the brand introduced «The Impermeable», a modern diver watch.
Presently, the brand offers Swiss made timepieces from its collections like Silk Road III, Sowar Prima, Sowar 1916, Secundus, The Classics, Impermeable, Everbright, Silk Road I, Silk Road II, Queen Anne, Queen Anne and 8457.
CHARRIOL is a global prestige brand of luxury timepieces, fine jewelry and accessories including fragrance, sunglasses and leather goods.
CHARRIOL was established in 1983 by French entrepreneur Philippe Charriol and remains an independent family business. The company is led by Philippe Charriol, together with family members – wife Marie-Olga Charriol in Public Relations, daughter Coralie Charriol-Paul as Creative Director and son Alexandre Charriol as Visual Director.
CHARRIOL’s signature motifs include the CELTIC® Collection and iconic, patented gold and steel cable designs that offer a modern tribute to the artistry of the Celts, an ancient European civilization. CHARRIOL jewelry is crafted in Switzerland and Germany; timepieces are handmade in Switzerland.
Charriol international headquarters are based in Geneva, Switzerland, with a Hong-Kong distribution subsidiary for mainland China.
In 1983, Philippe Charriol left his position as executive director of a prestigious watch and jewellery company to find his own company. Rather than aiming small and striving to make a name for himself on Paris’ Place Vendôme, Philippe preferred to conquer a whole continent: Asia. This bold execution idea was based on a deep knowledge of the region, coupled with vision and foresight of this market’s potential. Geneva was chosen for Production, home to the historic cradle of watchmaking and synonymous with the most prestigious watch brands.
Early success achieved in Japan and in South-East Asia enabled Philippe to later establish a significant presence in the American and Middle Eastern markets before taking his brand to the rest of the world.
In the 90’s, 10 years after starting his company, he added a new challenge by entering the world of motorsports, another passion close to Philippe’s heart. He participated in several international events where he drove his Lamborghini Diablo and Corvette Z06 on the European circuits. Philippe took part in the Andros Trophy (French national ice-racing) for 12 years, in the F.I.A. GT Championship and in the Championnat de France Grand Tourisme, and was named French Champion in the GT3 category in 1992.
In 2011, Philippe let create a unique car for GT & Endurance racing: the CHARRIOL SF10 designed by French designer Yacouba to compete around the European endurance circuits. This passion for speed has informed CHARRIOL’s sponsorship of numerous motorsports events, and provided design inspiration for several remarkable CHARRIOL timepieces.
Like all visionaries, Philippe enjoys fusing personal and professional passions and one informs the other. In addition to the thrilling world of motorsports, Philippe has long been fascinated with more refined pursuits, which also nurture the various watch and jewellery lines created for the Maison.
A thirst for knowledge, culture and history gave rise to the unique cable twist motif inspired by ancient Celtic art and which is now synonymous with CHARRIOL style. Finest examples of these are seen in the CELTIC® and ST-TROPEZ™ pieces.
A love of discovery and entrepreneurship were the inspiration behind CHARRIOL’s bold adventurer timepieces such as COLVMBUS™, ACTOR™ and KUCHA™. Sport and passion have driven the Maison’s continual development into chronometers and sponsorship, resulting in timepieces such as the Chrono SuperSports™ and Gran Celtica™ Chrono.
Daizoh Makihara is an Independent watchmaker based in Japan.
Born in 1979, Daizoh Makihara joined Hiko Mizuno Jewelry College in Tokyo at the age of 27. Before that he had been working as a cook at hotels and vocational schools. After attaining his graduation from this specialised institution, he began making watches. He then joined as a teacher at the Hiko Mizuno College of Jewelry, the same institution where he studied from 2007 to 2010.
In 2017, he established his own brand “DAIZOH MAKIHARA WATCH CRAFT JAPAN”. In 2019, DAIZOH launched KIKUTSUNAGIMON SAKURA, the first wristwatch in the world to incorporate Edo Kiriko, a Japanese traditional craft. Daizoh is a candidate member of AHCI Independent Watchmakers Association in Switzerland since 2019.
DAIZOH MAKIHARA Kikutsunagimon Sakura
His notable creations are “Kikutsunagimon Sakura” and “Kacho Fugetsu“. In Japanese language, 菊繋ぎ紋 桜 (kikutsunagimon sakura) refers to ‘chrysanthemum seal pattern & cherry blossoms’ and 花鳥風月 (kacho fugetsu) means ‘beauties of nature’.
When it comes to the “kikutsunagimon sakura” timepiece, 菊 (kiku) means Chrysanthemum, which represents the Japanese Imperial Seal and 桜 (sakura) means Cherry Blossoms, the national flower of Japan. Representing the authority of the Emperor, the Imperial Seal of Japan features a 16-petal chrysanthemum with sixteen tips of another row of petals showing behind the first row.
The artistically crafted dial of this pink gold watch boasts 菊 紋 (kiku mon) or Imperial Japanese Seal (chrysanthemum seal) pattern decoration. The hand-winding movement of this timepiece is decorated with Cherry Blossoms (sakura) pattern.
The DAIZOH MAKIHARA “Kacho Fugetsu” watch is inspired by the attractions of beautiful nature, such as flower (ka), bird (cho), wind (fu) and moon (getsu). These are depicted by hand-crafted sculptures and decorative patterns.
DAIZOH MAKIHARA Kacho Fugetsu watch
In this watch, the off-centred dial and movement plates are decorated with hand-engraved Hemp leaf pattern.
Technical details
Model: DAIZOH MAKIHARA “kikutsunagimon sakura”
Case
18K Pink Gold
Water resistance: 3BAR (30 meters)
Dial
Japanese traditional arts and crafts “Kikutsunagimon”
Hands: Blue steel hands
Movement
Hand winding (Cal.DM 01)
Movement decoration: The cherry tree design by the hand engraving
17 jewels
Frequency: 18000 / h
HMT Watches Limited, the most admired watch company in India, was incorporated in 1962.
HMT is the abbreviation of Hindustan Machine Tools, a Public Sector Company founded by Indian Government in 1953 in Bangalore (now known as Bengaluru) in the Karnataka state. It started as a machine tools manufacturing company, and subsequently established several subsidiaries across the country for manufacturing Clocks & Wristwatches, Tractors, Die Casting, Printing Machinery, Bearings, Stepper Motors, Ball Screws, Precision Machinery and CNC Systems.
HMT’s Head Quarters is located at Bellary Road in Bangalore. It is the first company to start watch manufacturing in India. In 1962, as part of its diversification strategy, HMT ventured into watchmaking by setting up the HMT Watch Factory I at Jalahalli in Bangalore.
Then, the Government of India had collaborated with Japanese watchmaking company CITIZEN for providing technical assistance for manufacturing mechanical wristwatches in India. Initially HMT’s collection was consisted of hand-wound mechanical watches only. In 1972, the HMTWatch Factory II was established at Jalahalli to manufacture Automatic Day Date watches in technical collaboration with CITIZEN.
In the early years, HMT watches were provided with CITIZEN movements imported from Japan. Afterwards, HMT began manufacturing mechanical movements in-house, after obtaining necessary license and technology transfer from the Japanese company.
After expanding its production facilities inside their Jalahalli campus, the company also began producing small movement components like main-spring, hair-spring and shock-absorber. Soon, HMT became a full-fledged watch manufacture, producing 100% of movement components in-house.
In 1975, HMT Watch Factory III was established in Jammu & Kashmir. In 1978, HMT opened its Watch Factory IV at Tumkur in the Karnataka state. In 1980, HMT founded Horological Inspection Institute in Bangalore to undertake quality tests of its products.
In 1981, the company began manufacturing quartz analogue watches. In 1982, HMT Watch Factory V was established at Ranibagh near the famous Himalayan resort town Nainital. In the same year, they also set up a specialized Watch Case Division in Bengaluru.
In 1999, HMT Watches Limited (HMTWL), a fully owned subsidiary of HMT Limited was incorporated in Bengaluru to unite the manufacturing, quality testing and marketing of clocks, wristwatches and timing systems.
HMTWL had the following divisions:
Watch Factory I & II: Based at Jalahalli, Bengaluru. Production of ladies’ mechanical hand-wound watches and automatic day-date watches.
Watch Factory IV: Located at Devarayapatna in Tumkur district. Production of gents’ mechanical hand-wound watches and quartz analog watches for men and women.
Watch Factory V, Ranibagh: Located in Nainital district of Uttarakhand state. Production of gent’s mechanical watches, and the Slim Series quartz watches.
Watch Case Factory Bangalore: Production of shaped watch cases.
Horological Inspection Institute Bangalore: Quality tests of the watches.
Timing Systems Division: Based at Jalahalli in Bengaluru, this division produced floral clocks, tower clocks, timing display systems, population clocks, master-slave clocks etc.
Marketing Division: Located at Bellary Road in Bengaluru, this department was responsible for marketing, sales and after-sales service of HMT watches.
On 4th September 2000, an independent subsidiary HMT Chinar Watches Limited (HMTCWL) was incorporated for managing the activities of the Assembly Unit at Jammu and the Watch Factory III at Srinagar. HMTCWL used to produce mechanical hand-wound watches for men.
HMT subsidiaries as on 01 Jan 2001:
HMT Machine Tools Limited
HMT Watches Limited
HMT Chinar Watches Limited
HMT Bearings Limited
HMT International Limited
During its good times, HMT was the largest producer of wristwatches in India. However, gradually it lost the business due to stiff competition from home-grown brands like Titan, which efficiently responded to the huge demand of trendy quartz watches in the market. Due to continuous revenue losses, the Government of India ordered to shut down HMT watch factories in 2016.
As on date, only HMT Machine Tools Limited and HMT International Limited are the only two manufacturing subsidiaries of the iconic public sector company established in 1953.
All HMT watch factories established under HMT Watches Limited and HMT Chinar Watches Limited are under closure/liquidation. Along with these watch making subsidiaries, the company also terminated the manufacturing activities of HMT Bearings Limited and the Tractor Division.
Specialized in the manufacturing of precision machine tools and CNC systems, HMT Machine Tools Limited and its units in Bangalore, Hyderabad, Kalamassery (Kochi), Ajmer and Pinjore are still active in business.
After the closure of its manufacturing activities at watchmaking factories, HMT’s WMD (Watch Marketing Division) in Bengaluru began selling the left-over inventory. They also started assembling watches by utilizing the parts and components available with the company stock.
At present, HMT Limited (the holding company of HMT Watches) is operating a newly established Auxiliary Business Division (ABD) at Jalahalli in Bengaluru with a Watch Assembly Line for making timepieces. This facility was earlier known as Common Services Division (CSD).
HMT Auxiliary Business Division has been maintaining an impressive inventory of watch components and movements accumulated from the stocks of all HMT factories. This reserve enables them to assemble new watches bearing HMT brand name. They are also utilizing third-party components and movements for manufacturing HMT branded watches. For example, some of their latest automatic watch models are equipped with Miyota self-winding movements.
Presently HMT watches can be purchased via the company’s official online store*. HMT’s current product range includes both mechanical and quartz timepieces. The retail price range is 10 to 200 US Dollars.
Guinand is a watch brand based in Frankfurt, Germany. The brand was originally founded in 1865 in Switzerland. Since the year 2000, the company has been operating from Germany.
Since 1865, Guinand has been continuously building mechanical watches of the highest quality. It is not only one of the oldest watch manufacturers in Europe, but also one of the very few family businesses that produces continuously from 1865 to the present day.
As early as 1881, the first own chronograph mechanism was developed. Since that time and until today, Guinand stands in the tradition of making watches for special requirements.
Early on, Guinand supplied the air forces of France and Italy and the British Admiralty. For technicians and scientists stopwatches, and later wrist chronographs, were developed. For the first 100 years, Guinand had its headquarters in Switzerland and now, for more than two decades, in the Rödelheim district of Frankfurt.
Drawing from a rich pool of experience acquired since 1865, Guinand manufactures exclusively specific mechanical watches in small numbers. The watches are distinguished by their independent and distinctive design, a high degree of handicraft quality, and attention to detail. Guinand watches are created by hand in the workshop in Frankfurt/ Rödelheim in small quantities which imparts the experience of exclusivity.
Faithful to the brand’s motto ‘’Handmade in Frankfurt am Main’, all the essential steps in production take place in Germany: watchcases and watch hands are developed, constructed and produced here. Assembly and regulation, as well s the final quality controls are done here as well.
Guinand watches are assembled by hand and checked carefully after every production step by expert watch makers. No watch leaves the house without having passed a one-week running test, as well as having undergone a test of precise rate, and water resistance. This is proven by an end inspection certificate paper which is enclosed to every new watch, as well as to all watches that have undergone a revision.
You can purchase Guinand watches only directly at the factory sales in Frankfurt-Rödelheim, and of course as well on Guinand’s website. This sales model enables personal contact to customers that is appreciated by Guinand customers from all over the world.
History
On April 21st 1865, the two brothers Julien-Alcide and Charles Leon Guinand established the Guinand Frères Company in Les Brenets, a little Swiss town on the Doubs, the river bordering France and Switzerland. The young enterprise soon began to develop as well in Germany, Scandinavia and the USA, which became strong sales markets with an enormous demand for precision watches.
Due to an economic crisis towards the end of the 1870s, the American market was lost, the main customer Fellow & Cie in New York ruined in 1876. For the still young company this was a heavy blow. Therefore, a branch office was founded in Hamburg in 1876. The business was transferred to Copenhagen in 1880, from where the overseas business was overseen.
In 1880 the cousin of Leon Guinand, Julien Gallet, suggested new ways to go and produce chronographs. In search of a way out of the crisis, the ingenious watchmaker Charles Léon Guinand developed his own chronograph, and brought it to market in 1881.
Based on the chronograph, further developments were soon added, and around the turn of the 20th century, production already included a whole series of intricate watches. Branches in Le Locle, for pocket watches with the logo C.L. Guinand and Morteau in France are founded to better market the watches.
With the development of a new tachymeter chronograph around 1900, Leon Guinand became a prominent entrepreneur in the watchmaking world. Founder Leon Guinand passed away in 1908 and following his death, his widow took over the management together with her son George Henri Guinand.
As a far-sighted entrepreneur, George Henri Guinand also began as early as 1910 to switch to the production of pocket and wrist chronographs. Bit by bit, the company developed a range of intricate wrist chronographs. This was followed by products for special applications, delivered to the French and Italian governments, as well as the British admiralty.
In 1945, Georges-Henri Guinand, the son of company founder, who was entrusted with the management of Guinand Frères, transformed the business into a listed company. During the heyday of mechanical watches, Guinand Watch Co. S.A., the company’s new name, was the ultimate synonym for the rattrapante wrist watch, the split second chronograph.
Former Guinand factory in Switzerland
In addition to the production for their own brand, Guinand Watch Co. also supplied numerous renowned watch brands of this era and, thanks to its specialization in intricate chronographs, even survived the major brand deaths in Switzerland at the end of the 1970s.
In 1946, George Henri Guinand died. His sons Léon and John took over the responsibility of the company, subsequently joined by his grandchildren Jean and Michel. With Michel Guinand, the last descendant of the founding family headed the company until the takeover by Helmut Sinn in the mid-nineties. During this time, chronograph milestones arose such as the model 361, a waterproof chronograph with a water pressure of 200 m.
One of Guinand‘s major customers has been the Frankfurt watch pioneer Helmut Sinn since the early sixties. Until the nineties Guinand Watch Co. made a not inconsiderable part of the Sinn watches.
In 1994, at the age of 80, Helmut Sinn decided to retire to a well-deserved retirement and sold his Frankfurt Company. But the ideas continued to bubble and wanted to be implemented. In 1995 Helmut Sinn took over the shares of Guinand S.A. from the Guinand family.
He was again filled with passion and in 1996 founded the company ‘’Jubilar Uhren Inh. Helmut Sinn’’ in Frankfurt am Main. Finally, in 2000, production in Switzerland was discontinued for other brands and production in Guinand, Chronosport and Jubilar was relocated to Germany. So, ‘’Jubilar watches Inh. Helmut Sinn’’ became the company ‘’Guinand watches Helmut Sinn GmbH’’ based in Frankfurt am Main.
There are watch milestones such as the world time watch WZU, the series 31 – unique by the function with seconds lock, the one-hand 24h watch, the big Regulator or the Büren 12 and of course the classics Series 40 and Series 60.
The series 40 is the direct descendant of the Guinand model 361 originally introduced in the 1960s and is still today an indispensable part of the Guinand model range. The brand re-issued Flying Officer, Guinand‘s second successful model from the sixties – the successor model Pilot Officer was reissued in 2019.
In 2014/15, Helmut Sinn sold the business 2014/2015 to Dipl. Ing.Matthias Klüh. With the change of the company owner, the company moved into a new establishment the district of Rödelheim. In the best Guinand tradition, special watches are also being created at the new location, such as the Flying Officer / Pilot Officer series, the ASFlieger, the HS10X tetralogy, the Werksfahrer Chrono 1 and the DuoIndikator. With the 361 Guinand finally revived the reissue of the classic of the 60s.
In 2018, Helmut Sinn died at the age of almost 102 years. The model HS102, which was originally planned for this birthday, was released as a limited series in recognition of his life‘s work by Guinand after his death – after just 48 hours, this Guinand watch was completely sold out.
In 2019, Guinand introduced the Flight Engineer, a pilot watch that defies magnetic fields thanks to a protective mantle up to a field strength of 80,000 A / m.
In 2020, Guinand presented the “Kalender 31”, an exceptional automatic wristwatch with pointer date display. The Kalender 31 is powered by a GUI-1 automatic calibre, based on the Sellita SW220-1 movement. In 2021, Guinand presented two new models – the “Nordmeer Chronograph” and the Flieger Chrono GMT.
Porsche Design is a premium lifestyle brand with particular focus on technically inspired products. It was founded in 1972 by Ferdinand Alexander Porsche, grandson of Ferdinand Porsche (founder of the Porsche car company). Since 2003, Porsche Design has been a part of Porsche AG, the iconic German automobile manufacturer specializing in high-performance sports cars, SUVs and sedans.
The product portfolio of Porsche Design includes classic men’s accessories, a sport and fashion collection as well as electronic products and a men’s fragrance range. The products are designed in the Porsche Design Studio in Zell am See, Austria, and sold worldwide in the brand’s own stores, shop-in-shops, high quality department stores and exclusive retail outlets. Presently, Roland Heiler is the Chief Design Officer of Porsche Design Group.
With offices in Zell am See, Berlin and Ludwigsburg, Los Angeles and Shanghai, Porsche Design Studio also works for international clients, which has led to the creation of top-end consumer goods, household appliances and industrial products.
In April 2017, Porsche Design became a fully owned subsidiary of Porsche AG.
History of Porsche Design
Born in Stuttgart, the eldest son of Ferry Porsche headed up the Stuttgart-based sports car maker’s design studio from 1962 to 1972 – the period during which the Porsche 911 and the 904 race car were created. In 1972, he established his own design studio (Studio F. A. Porsche), relocating it two years later to Zell am See in Austria.
During the decades that followed, he designed accessories such as watches, spectacles and writing instruments. Working with a team of a dozen designers, he also styled a host of industrial products, household appliances and consumer products for well-known international companies. Today, the studio in Zell am See is one of the most renowned design houses in the world.
Ferdinand Alexander Porsche has designed all of the things men consider important. Many of his designs have become classics, which are even displayed at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. The unusual breadth of his work includes writing instruments, lighters, boats and even the Skytrain in Bangkok.
Ferdinand Alexander Porsche has received many awards and honors for his work as a designer. The Industrial Design Forum Hanover (iF) chose him as their “1992 Prizewinner of the Year”, and the President of Austria made him an honorary professor in 1999.
Ferdinand Alexander Porsche was born on December 11, 1935 in Stuttgart, the eldest son of Dorothea and Ferry Porsche, who later founded the sports car maker. Even as a small boy, he accompanied his father and grandfather Ferdinand to the engineering design office in Zuffenhausen.
When he was seven, the family moved to Zell am See to avoid the bombing. As a child, “Butzi” – as he was fondly known to his family – enjoyed designing and building his own toys. Upon his return to Stuttgart, he attended the Waldorf School and then studied at the Ulm School of Design. In 1958, he started work at the design office of what was then Porsche KG.
He soon gave a vivid demonstration of his design skills when he created the first plasticine model of a successor to the 356 series. The Porsche 911, developed directly from his drawings, was shown for the first time in September 1963 at the Frankfurt Motor Show.
Years later, it would be part of the permanent collection of the Museum of Modern Art in New York. In 1962, he was appointed head of the Stuttgart-based sports car manufacturer’s design studio. The designs of all of the racing and sports cars that left the factory in the 1960s bear his hallmark, including the legendary 904 Carrera GTS long-distance race car.
In Fall 2003, Ferdinand Alexander Porsche, together with other Porsche Design shareholders and Porsche AG, founded the Porsche Design Group (Porsche Lizenz- und Handelsgesellschaft mbH & Co. KG), in which Porsche AG now holds a majority interest (65 % shares). The aim of this new company is to exploit the potential of the Porsche name in business areas unrelated to the auto industry and continue the life work of Ferdinand Alexander Porsche.
Porsche Design features prominently in these activities as well as the product portfolio for Porsche drivers and fans of the Porsche Design Driver’s Selection brand and the design work of the Porsche Design Studio in Zell am See.
In 2004, Porsche AG appointed Roland Heiler (who was the director of the Porsche Styling Studio in California at that time) as the Managing Director of Porsche Design. In 2005, Ferdinand Alexander Porsche decided to resign from the supervisory board of Porsche AG and to withdraw from active professional life.
In 2007, Roland Heiler became the Chief Designer of Porsche Design group. Ferdinand Alexander Porsche passed away at the age of seventy-six in 2012.
In 2017, Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG has acquired the remaining 35 per cent of the shares in Porsche Lizenz- und Handelsgesellschaft mbH & Co. KG (Porsche Design Group) from a Porsche family investment company, making it a wholly owned subsidiary.
In 2021, Porsche Design won the honorary title “Red Dot: Design Team of the Year 2021”.
Porsche Design Timepieces
The Porsche Design legendary Chronograph I was the world’s first black watch as well as the first product produced by the luxury brand. In 1972, the timepiece caused a furore, as the self-winding chronograph – a concept that had previously been inconceivable – was entirely black and provocatively plain.
By releasing this timepiece, Professor Ferdinand Alexander Porsche was anticipating a trend that, while revolutionary at the time, defines the watch industry today. In 1980, Porsche Design revolutionised the watchmaking world with the first timepiece made from titanium ever to be seen. 20 years later, this was followed by the first watch to feature an aluminium case.
The launch of the Indicator in 2004 saw the brand reach a new milestone: For the first time, this model combined chronograph functionality with a purely mechanical, jumping digital display. This was made possible thanks to the world’s most complex watch mechanism produced in a limited run: Four spring barrels are required to power all functions reliably and the mechanism comprises a total of more than 800 individual parts.
In March 2014, the Porsche Design Group (Porsche Lizenz- und Handelsgesellschaft mbH & Co. KG) and Eterna AG Uhrenfabrik, based in Grenchen, Switzerland, ended their license agreement for the development, production and sale of high-quality watches. All services associated with the relevant Porsche Design watches will still be guaranteed by Eterna. In addition, the two companies are set to collaborate in various technical fields.
In July 2014, Porsche Design Group (Porsche Lizenz- und Handelsgesellschaft mbH & Co. KG) founded a subsidiary in Switzerland to continue its tradition of offering high-quality timepieces.
Porsche Design Timepieces AG, based in the Jurasuedfuß region of Switzerland, is responsible for developing and producing exclusive Porsche Design timepieces; marketing and sales are overseen by the Porsche Design Group, which is based in Ludwigsburg, Germany.
As has been the case for more than 40 years, Porsche Design timepieces are positioned in an exclusive niche in the luxury watch category. The products are available around the world in the luxury brand’s stores and from selected leading retailers.
GENUS is an independent luxury watch brand based in Geneva. Co-founded by Sébastien Billières and Catherine Henry, the brand made its debut in 2019 with the launch of their innovative GNS wristwatch. The timepieces are entirely conceived, developed and manufactured in its independent workshop in Geneva, in compliance with the standards and requirements of Haute Horlogerie.
In June 2019, GENUS submitted an entry for the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix (GPHG) as a launch pad and media springboard to unveil the first model in its collection. The debut model from the brand GNS boasts a world-premier time display mechanism developed in-house.
About Sébastien Billières
Watchmaker, instructor, entrepreneur, and co-founder of GENUS, Sébastien Billières successfully leverages an expertise in Fine Watchmaking acquired while working with some of the greatest in the field.
Barely a few days after obtaining his CFC as a watchmaker in 1999, Sébastien Billières joined at the workshop of Roger Dubuis, which had approximately ten employees at the time, and collaborates directly with the master himself.
Eager for experience, he came in contact with other strong personalities, like Felix Baumgartner in the early years of Urwerk. Sébastien Billières then joined the Opus V project team at Harry Winston, in charge of fine-tuning alongside Felix (prototyping), and testing and parts production. Until today he remains in charge of after-sales service operations for Harry Winston.
When Sébastien Billières decided to set up on his own, the workbench he rented from Svend Andersen turns out to have been previously occupied by none other than Felix Baumgartner, his friend and mentor, and Franck Muller.
The production of tourbillons, a specialization in automatons – just two of the fields in which the budding watchmaker has developed a wide range of skills that don’t go unnoticed for long. In 2006, Billières was approached by IFAGE, the Foundation for Adult Education in Geneva, to broaden the scope of its watchmaking curriculum. He became the Chairman of the departments he created: Modular Training in Watchmaking and Training in Industrial Quality, and still teaches there.
In 2007, he co-founded a company to develop new mechanisms and complications for high watchmaking “Maisons”. Then he established a shop on his own, and GMTI soon became one of the region’s leading subcontractors to the watchmaking industry with state-of-the-art facilities specialized in the manufacture and assembly of “Poinçon de Genève” calibers. His first creation participated in the 2019 “Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève” competition and marked the unveiling of the exciting and independent Fine Watchmaking brand newly co-founded with his business partner Catherine Henry: GENUS.
About Catherine Henry
Graduate in Management Sciences, mentor, entrepreneur and now co-founder of a Fine Watchmaking brand, Catherine Henry is Chief Operations Officer at GENUS and spearheading the start-up’s launch and business development.
After obtaining her Swiss commercial CFC certificate, she began her career in Zurich with an insurance company and then move to the stock trading desk at the headquarters of a major international bank. Thereafter which she multiplied her work experiences, and each of her positions served as a springboard for the next.
Building on her extensive and solid practical experience, acquired over more than 25 years in different fields and types of organizations, ranging from a multinational to the food industry to construction technology, she then chose to support SMEs and start-ups as mentor in organizing, managing and growing their businesses. Catherine’s working languages are French, English and German.
She was awarded the “Prix de la femme romandeentrepreneure” in 2011 (Female Entrepreneur of Romandie Award – Women In Swiss Business). She now holds an EBBA Degree from the Geneva School of Economics and Management (formerly HEC Geneva) and a Bachelor’s Degree in Management Sciences from the University of Savoie Mont-Blanc, having obtained her titles with distinction and graduated first in her class. Catherine is a mentor at the Career Centre of the University of Geneva.
Catherine Henry and her business partner in this remarkable watchmaking venture, Sébastien Billières, launched their first time piece in the 2019 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) competition.
Founded in Le Locle in 1865 by a visionary watchmaker, Georges Favre-Jacot, the Manufacture Zenith earned swift recognition for the precision of its chronometers with which it has won 2,333 chronometry prizes in a century and a half of existence: an absolute record in terms of pocket watches, onboard timers and wristwatches.
Having earned fame thanks to its legendary El Primero calibre – an integrated automatic column-wheel chronograph movement launched in 1969 and endowed with a high frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour that ensures short-time measurements accurate to the nearest 1/10th of a second– the Manufacture Zenith has since developed over 600 movement variations. This Manufacture currently stands at the exact spot where its founder built the first company workshop, there by physically embodying a continuity that is a rarity in itself.
From the 1870s onwards, Georges Favre-Jacot played a pioneering role by developing his company on an international scale, as this pocket watch dating from approximately 1890 testifies. It bears his signature and was made for the Russian market, as is apparent from the Cyrillic characters appearing on the white enamelled dial– ГЕОРГЪФАВРЪЖАКO – Локлъ (Georges Favre-Jacot – Locle) – and engraved on the domed cover – Hусскiечасы – Анкеръ 15 Камней – ГЕОРГЪФАВРЪЖАКО – Локлъ – Верныйходъ (Russian watch – 15-jewel lever – Georges Favre-Jacot – Locle – Precise movement).
Moreover, the three movement bridges form the initials GFJ. Much in vogue during the late 19th century, this type of movement is nonetheless very rare and thus extremely hard to find these days. It is worth noting that the founder of the Manufacture made another innovative move in deciding to have his name registered as a trademark.
It all began in LeLocle, a small village in the Neuchâtel Mountains of Switzerland, with an exceptional young man. His name was Georges Favre. At the age of 9, he left school and began learning the watchmaking trade. At the age of 13, he was ready to set up on his own. Seven years later, while still a minor, he married Louisine-Philippine Jacot-Descombes and took the name Favre-Jacot. A larger-than-life character driven by a fiercely independent spirit, this future captain of industry was also a visionary.
He did far more than just set up his own factory. In an age when movement parts were made by conscientious yet scattered and isolated farmers who turned watchmakers in winter, the future boss invented a milestone concept. It involved regrouping under the roof of his factory all the skills and talents required for the complete production of a watch. Today, we would call this vertical integration. In 1865, it was a revolution in the manner of exercising the watchmaking art in the region. Georges Favre-Jacot was only 22 years old at the time.
Georges Favre-Jacot
Georges Favre-Jacot was to prove himself an innovator in all areas of his company and fought hard to ensure he was constantly able to count on a state-of-the-art industrial facility.
This was already apparent in the architecture of the premises. The spacious and light-filled workshops featured large windows and these buildings were the first in the town to be equipped with electric lighting. They were linked by passages enabling people to walk from one workshop to another while remaining sheltered from the elements. Meeting all requirements and having everything in the same place: Georges Favre-Jacot’s vision of efficiency.
This avant-garde approach also governed the entire production chain. The concept enabled the entrepreneur in LeLocle to play a trailblazing role in the watch industry, by integrating a foundry, rolling-mills, stamping, case and dial-making within his Manufacture. A few years later, Henry Ford was to instate a similar concept in his Detroit factory. In parallel, Georges Favre-Jacot put in place a system that nobody had thought of before: interchangeable components, whatever the movement.
Finally, it also determined the entire work organisation. Georges Favre-Jacot had the idea of varying the tasks accomplished by the artisans in order to avoid monotony. He had them fix their stools on rails, much like today’s office chairs, thus enabling them to move from one workstation to the next without getting up and to maintain the same position in relation to the workbench. Moreover, Georges Favre-Jacot was doubtless the first in the watch industry to implement automated production.
This tireless innovator also instilled into his burgeoning company and his personnel a resolutely enterprising spirit that was to become a Zenith tradition.
The town of Le Locle, as well as being Zenith’s birthplace, is also acknowledged as the worldwide cradle of watchmaking. It is thus no coincidence that in 2009, along with neighbouring La Chaux-de-Fonds, it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site for its industrial watchmaking architecture and town planning. Zenith naturally contributes to this status, having housed for 150 years and in the very same spot one of watchmaking history’s first industrial Manufactures in the modern sense of the term.
At the start of the 20th century, Zenith became one of the first manufacturers to participate in the boom of the new trend that soon appeared on men’s wrists everywhere: the wristwatch. Among the first timepieces of this type produced by the Manufacture, this extremely rare model is fitted with a dial also bearing the signature of Georges Favre-Jacot.
While its construction is very similar to that of a pocket watch, notably with its large-sized winding crown, this watch is nonetheless driven by a Zenith movement featuring a modern architecture. This model dating from 1911 features a white enamel dial with small seconds at 6 o’clock. The Arabic hour numerals are black from 1 to 11 and red at 12. This visual marker, drawing the gaze and enabling instant reading, was a direct heir to the highly readable dials of pocket watches.
Since its establishment in 1865, Zenith became the first watch manufacture in the modern sense of the term, and its watches have accompanied extraordinary figures that dreamt big and strived to achieve the impossible – from Louis Blériot’s history-making flight across the English Channel to Felix Baumgartner’s record-setting stratospheric free-fall jump.
With innovation as its guiding star, Zenith features exceptional in-house developed and manufactured movements in all its watches. From the first automatic chronograph, the El Primero, to the fastest chronograph with a 1/100th of a second precision, the El Primero 21, as well as the Inventor that reinvents the regulating organ by replacing the 30+ components with a single monolithic element, the manufacture is always pushing the boundaries of what’s possible. Zenith has been shaping the future of Swiss watchmaking since 1865, accompanying those who dare to challenge themselves and break barriers.
BOHEMATIC is a Czech watch brand created by a businessman named Josef Zajíček, in partnership with designers Michal Froňek and Jan Němeček of the renowned Prague design studio Olgoj Chorchoj. All of them share a passion for technology, craftsmanship, and old racing cars. The brand offers luxury mechanical watches built on the premises of precise manufacturing and timeless design at a manufactory in Nové Město nad Metují (in north-eastern Bohemia in the Czech Republic).
Taking inspiration from the celebrated icons from the country, the brand creates mechanical timepieces featuring modernist design with timeless shapes and precise craftsmanship pushing the limits of technological possibilities. Presently, BOHEMATIC offers two watch models: GRAPHIC SUTNAR and AERO MINOR.
BOHEMATIC GRAPHIC SUTNAR
GRAPHIC SUTNAR is the first model from the GRAPHIC series. It looks to capture the best of Czech graphic design’s past and present and pays tribute to the avant-garde designer Ladislav Sutnar.
Born in Plzeň in 1897, Ladislav Sutnar is one of the leading figures of Czech interwar design who later played a key role in the development of American and global decorative arts and graphic design. He attained global fame and his work represents a major contribution to contemporary visual communication, design, and typography. Launching the GRAPHIC model with the Sutnar mark resonates with the overall philosophy of this series.
The dominant feature of the GRAPHIC SUTNAR watch is a large dial with raised indices from the pen of the graphic design Studio Marvil. It has a perfect font designed by Ladislav Sutnar to mark buildings in New York City’s Bronx borough in 1958; complemented by a discreet case with unobtrusive lugs.
The details of the dial, the shape of the hands and the design of the crown echo typical aspects of Sutnar’s work: they are based on the rigorous application of geometric patterns and elegant, modernist typography.
The hand-wound mechanical calibre was chosen due to the watch’s formal style. The small aperture at the two o’clock position on the back of the watch provides a view of the balance spring. The hand-sewn leather strap is beautifully outlined by perfect stitching. The model comes in five different colours: Tapir White, Rhino Black, Camel Ardoise, Elephant Blue and Walrus Silver.
The colour designations and shades are based on the names of famous toys designed by Sutnar. The price of Graphic watches ranges from CZK 98,000 to 108,000; depending on the design.
Case: stainless steel, blasted, black PVD, Dimensions: diameter 42 mm, height 12 mm, Water resistance: 5 ATM (swimming), Weight: 83 grams, Glass: sapphire crystal – antireflective
Dial: raised indices (Super-LumiNova)
Hands: machined (Super-LumiNova)
Strap: hand-sewn leather (20/18 mm)
Clasp: deployant (18 mm)
BOHEMATIC AERO MINOR
More sports-oriented, the AERO MINOR watch pays tribute to the legendary Czech car Aero Minor Sport and the racers who drove it to victory in its class in the legendary 24 Hours of Le Mans race in 1949. Numerous details link the watch visually to this hugely successful racing vehicle.
Its lightweight titanium case features ergonomically shaped lugs and a rotating bezel with inset luminescent markings. The distinctive dial, the typography and the shape of the hands are reminiscent of the car’s dashboard instruments; gear cog grooves decorate the crown and the rotor echoes the geometry of a wheel.
Both an aperture in the back of the watch and the dial perforated by 2,200 tiny holes afford a glimpse of the partially skeletonised automatic mechanical calibre from the premium Swiss manufacturer La Joux-Perret(LJP 8120).
The calibre has several modifications made especially for the AERO MINOR chronograph which features a column wheel and a rare complication called flyback — a function that allows the watch owner to stop and reset the stopwatch with a single push of a button.
Inspiration for including this complication came from the idea of measuring the circuit laps in Le Mans or the competition segments in TSD rallies. Manually set into the dial are two sub-dials with raised indices and a minute scale.
The skeletonised date wheel showing under the perforated dial and the luminescent date window (which greatly helps legibility in low-light conditions) add a beautiful, yet functional detail.
Rounding up the busy watch face is the perfectly clean minute scale with slightly raised Super-LumiNova indices. Adding the finishing touch to this model is the hand-sewn leather strap with large holes; it comes from Ondřej Šíma’s Prague studio.
The AERO MINOR model is produced in four different colours referencing legendary racing circuits Le Mans Blue, Spa Gray, Indy Sunburn and Monaco Black. The basic price of the AERO MINOR watch is CZK 148,000; however, the price may vary according to the level and complexity of individualization.
Technical details
Design: Olgoj Chorchoj Studio
Movement: mechanical – automatic, La Joux-Perret/Bohematic 8120 (Swiss Made), Power reserve: 55 hours
Case: titanium, blasted, Dimensions: diameter 44 mm, height 15 mm, Water resistance: 10 ATM (swimming), Weight: 71 grams, Glass: sapphire crystal (antireflective)
Dial: perforated (Super-LumiNova)
Hands: machined (Super-LumiNova)
Strap: hand-sewn leather (22/18 mm)
Clasp: pin buckle (18 mm)
About Bohematic
Bohematic is an original Czech watch manufactory based in Nové Město nad Metují. It focuses on the hand-made production of unique small-series mechanical watches. The whole project, which involves designers from the Olgoj Chorchoj studio and some of the best Czech watchmakers, was born out of a common passion for technology, craftsmanship, old racing cars and the ticking of mechanical machines. With 21st century design and technologies, this new Czech watch brand wants to continue the tradition of watchmaking in the Czech lands.
Cédric Johner is an independent master watchmaker based in Geneva. With an impressive experience of about three decades, this talented watchmaker creates unique hand-made mechanical timepieces for esteemed clients.
Cédric Johner began his watchmaking career in 1982 at the age of fifteen, as a trainee jeweller in a major Geneva fashion house. He then learned traditional watch making. Since beginning, he has a passion for creating unique timepieces. None of his watches are identical and each of them has something totally unique about it.
Cédric Johner operates a small luxury watch atelier in Geneva. The watchmaker uses much acclaimed traditional methods for the decoration and finishing of each watch and its movement.
Cédric Johner makes all the parts of his watches, including the jewellery part. All parts are hand-made using traditional methods. He makes watches based on previous models, but also entirely made-to-measure models according to the customer’s request.
Cedric Johner Maestria – Unique piece in platinum with minute repeater and perpetual calendar skeleton
KUOE is a Japanese watch brand founded by designer Uchimura in 2020. The brand’s classic styled wristwatches take inspiration from the antique hand-wound watches from the 1940’s to 70’s era, made in England. The first model from the brand, the Old Smith 90-001 was launched in April 2020. Presently, the brand offers four collections: Old Smith 90-001, Old Smith 90-002, Royal Smith/90-004 and Holborn.
These high quality made-in-Japan watches comes in affordable price range. The brand itself handles all business activities including design, production and sales of its watches to reduce the costs. Every KUOE watch comes with one year manufacture warranty.
KUOE OLD SMITH / 90-001
Inspired by antique watches of the 1960’s, this timepiece features a smaller, 35 mm diameter, dome glass and ivory dial. Vintage styled, this sleek and minimalistic watch can be worn by both men and women.
Equipped with a Seiko quartz movement, the KUOE OLD SMITH / 90-001 watch is available with a choice of bar index dial or Arabic index dial.
Both dial versions offer the option of Blue, Gold and Silver hands. The retail price is approximately $178.00 for each.
Technical details
Movement
Quartz movement (Cal SEIKO VD78A)
Case
Material: stainless steel 316L
Diameter: 35mm
Thickness: 10mm
Dome mineral grass
Water resistance: 5 bar
Dial
Ivory dial with small seconds
Blued, Silvered of Golden hands
Band
Cowhide or mesh bracelet
KUOE OLD SMITH / 90-002
The OLD SMITH/90-002 is an automatic watch was inspired by the British military watches of the 1940’s – 70’s. Its features a smaller, 35 mm diameter rarely seen in modern automatic watches, thick Arabic numerals and hands, light orange fluorescent paint, and dial with a matte finish. Each timepiece houses a SEIKO NH35A self-winding movement.
The case is stainless steel, and polished to add elegance to the rustic feel. The watch is available in three dial versions: Dark Navy, Black, Deep Green and Ivory. The retail price is $268.00 for each.
Technical details
Movement
Automatic with hand-wound
Caliber SEIKO NH35A (Hacking)
Power reserve: approximately 41 hours
Accuracy: -20 to +40 seconds per day (23º± 2ºC)
Case
Material: Stainless steel 316L
Case diameter: 35mm
Thickness: 12mm
Lug width: 18 mm
Domed mineral grass
Water resistance: 10ATM
Screw crown
Dial
Dark Navy/Black/Deep Green/ Ivory
Luminous hands and index
Date at 3H
Strap
NATO
KUOE Royal Smith/90-004
This premium model is equipped with the automatic movement Caliber 9039 made by CITIZEN MIYOTA. Made of 316L stainless steel, the watch has the same dimensions of the brand’s 1st model “OLD SMITH / 90-001”. Topped with a domed mineral glass, the dial adopts a sharp bar index, and it has a simple, stylish and very luxurious appearance.
The KUOE Royal Smith/90-004 watch comes with a luxurious Italian leather strap with a gloss finish. The Royal Smith/90-004 model is limited to 50 pieces of each color.
Fitted with solid case back, the watch offers 50 meters water resistance. The back cover contains a serial number. The movement provides a power reserve up to 42 hours.
KUOE Holborn
Holborn is a ladies quartz watch that displays hour, minute and small second. Made of stainless steel, its case measures 26mm diameter and 8mm thickness. The watch is fitted with a domed mineral crystal glass. Available in bar index dial or Arabic index dial, the Holborn model comes with a cowhide strap.
Masahiro Kikuno is the first Japanese watch maker to join the prestigious Swiss institution AHCI (Académie Horlogère Des Créateurs Indépendants). He is specialized in the manufacturing of exclusive handmade mechanical timepieces. Born in 1983, Masahiro Kikuno started his watchmaking after graduated from HIKO Mizuno College WOSTEP course. He remained as the teacher of this course.
In 2011, he became the candidate member of AHCI and unveiled the temporal hour watch called “Wadokei” in Baselworld watch fair in the same year. The originality of his watches amounts to what they are made by “hand “. The cutting out of the bridges and the tourbillon cage, and even enrolling the numbers on the dial plate are achieved by hand.
His master piece creations are: the Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon (2011), Japanese style “Temporal hour watch “(2011), Tourbillon (2012), ORIZURU (2013), MOKUME (2014), Wadokei Revision (2015), Wadokei Revision Gyousyou (2016, unique piece not for sale ), Wadokei Revision Jikon (unique piece not for sale) and Sakubou (2017).
Masahiro Kikuno Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon
Created by Masahiro Kikuno in 2011, the Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon watch boasts the calendar functions such as day, week, month and leap year indications and equip a tourbillon mechanism to improve the timekeeping by annulling errors of rate due to gravity.
This was for the first time in Japan that an independent watch maker created such a complex horological complication. To create the Perpetual Calendar tourbillon complex movement, Kikuno modified an ETA 6997 -1 manual winding movement by incorporating in-house designed and hand crafted components.
Technical details
Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon
Case: φ44.0mm, thickness: 17.3mm
Base movement: ETA 6497-1; Manual-winding
Handmade train-bridge
Perpetual calendar; Tourbillon
Dial: Hand paint calendar disk
Hands: Blue steel
Strap: Brown crocodile leather
Transparent back
Masahiro Kikuno Temporal Hour Watch
The Japanese style “Temporal hour watch “built in 2011 is the first “Automatic wari-koma dial watch (Wadokei)”, which has automatic index adjusting in each season. ”Temporal hour” system is the way of counting hours depends on the time of sunset and sunrise. Hours between sunrise and sunset are divided into 6 and used as one counting unit.
The time of sunset and sunrise varies along the season. So this unit hour changes by season. So, in Edo era, temporal hour clock was very well designed to adjust this unstable time unit system. This “Temporal hour” watch which Mr. Kikuno made was operated under the same system amazingly into small wrist watch world. The space between index will be longer in daytime and shorter in night time on the summer solstice, while shorter in daytime and longer in night time on the winter solstice.
This watch also provided not only temporal hours hand but regular hour hands so that we can find normal time and minutes. The base caliber of “Temporal hour watch” is Swiss made ETA 6498-1 movement.
Technical details
Case: 50.0×44.0mm, thickness: 16.0mm
Base movement: eta.6498-1; Manual-winding; Handmade train-bridge; Temporal hour display
Dial: Hand-painting index
Hands: Blue steel; Golden steel (Tempered steel).
Strap: Black crocodile leather
Note: Transparent back
Masahiro Kikuno Tourbillon 2012
The Tourbillon 2012 is a sunning watch complication entirely made by hand without the help of any CNC machines.
This manual winding tourbillon model is a unique piece and equipped with 19 jewels caliber MK 12. The 18 carat red gold case measuring 43 mm diameter comes with a transparent case back.
Size – 42mm x 34mm
Case – Oxidized bronze and stainless steel
Water resistant – 3 ATM
Movement – cal. mk15
Frequency – 28,800 vph
Number of the stones – 26
Manual winding
Temporal Hour (adjustable by replacing a cam between north latitude 51.3 and south latitude 51.3)
Twenty-four seasons display (adjustable by the crown) on the back.
Letters on the index are engraved by Mr. Keiji Kanagawa
Availability – 1 per year.
Price – JPY18,000,000 (before tax).
Masahiro Kikuno SAKUBOU
Technical details
Size – 38mmCase – Kuro-Shibuichi and White gold {Shibuichi” is the alloy 75% copper and 25% silver. Shibuichi means “quarter”, so 25% silver made that name. It contained a tiny bit of gold, too. “Kuro-Shibuichi” is 40% of “Shibuichi” and 60% of “Shakudo” which is the alloy of copper + 3% gold.}
Water resistance – 3 ATM
Movement – cal. mk17
Frequency – 28,800 vph
Number of the stones – 22
Manual winding
Moonphase (accuracy of one day per 122 years)
Engraved by Masahiro Kikuno
Availability – 4 per year.
Price – JPY5, 000,000 (before tax).
Milus is a Swiss watch brand based in Biel/Bienne. It was founded by Paul William Junod in 1919.
History of Milus watch brand
The history of Milus watch brand begins with the ideal of its pioneering founder, Paul William Junod (1896-1951), to create a robust yet elegant watch – a precious accessory, which everyone would wish to own. With this goal, in 1919 he set up the watchmaking business at Route de Reuchenette 21 in Bienne. The company remained in the ownership of the Junod family until 2002.
Paul William Junod held fast to this ideal, put it into practice, never deviating from his way of achieving it. Trained and experienced in the art and tradition of the watchmaker’s craft, he wanted to work with this potential, to develop it further, in order to make his dream come true.
After the death of the founder Paul William Junod in 1951, his son Paul Herbert took over management of the family business. In 1961 a new company headquarters was built at Route de Reuchenette 19 in Bienne.
In 1982 Paul Herbert Junod handed over the company to his two sons Paul and Pierre Junod, who complemented each other perfectly in the management and further development of the company. While Pierre devoted himself to the financial affairs of the business, Paul, the “technician” and extremely talented engineer and graduate of the celebrated Biel “School of Watchmaking”, continually developed innovative shapes as well as a new design concept for the Milus brand.
In 2003 Milus was acquired by Peace Mark Group, a Hong Kong based company specialized in the manufacturing and retailing of timepieces. With the formation of the new company “Milus International SA”, the brand made a successful re-launch at Basel-world 2004.
In 2008 the brand was taken over by Chow Tai Fook, the Hong Kong retail jewelry group. In 2016, Luc Tissot brought the Milus brand from its Chinese investors. Luc belongs to the celebrated Swiss watch-making family Tissot. Former chairman of Tissot Watch Company, Luc Tissot is the founder and chief executive of Tissot Medical Research SA.
From 2003 to 2015, Milus had been positioned in the luxury price segment (above CHF 5,000), with premium watch collections like Apiana, Agenios, Cirina, Eridana, Herios, Merea, Monocera, Tarasea, Tirion and Zetios. Since 2016, the brand has been offering timepieces in an affordable price range of CHF 1,000 to CHF 2,000.
Presently, the brand’s flagship collections are Snow Star, Archimèdes by Milus and LAB 01.
Aittokoski Timecrafts is an independent watchmaker based in Jyväskylä in Central Finland. The brand was founded by Dr. Timo Aittokoski.
Aittokoski Timecrafts creates exceptional, innovative, unique, and authentic high-quality wristwatches. The brand’s debut model is Fractalis, an automatic watch with highly distinguishable features.
In the design process of the Fractalis three equally important imperatives of practicality, ergonomics, and aesthetics of ideal design were respected, translating them into requirements of accuracy, robustness, wearing comfort, maximum readability in displaying the time, and aesthetically pleasing look and feel.
Fractalis is a watch with a fresh combination of traditional and novel features; crystal protected by bezel, rotation free caseback, downward shaped and changeable compressor lugs holding bezel, case, and caseback together, and functional solid-steel dial. It has authentic, easy-to-recognize design, where form largely follows the function, and decidedly clean solid lines suggest strong masculinity but in refined manner.
Fractalis come with a number of small distinctive details to look at, such as flat and round surfaces, tilted edges, grooves, conical shapes, hollows, textures, and technical components. The original design of Fractalis conveys precision, craftsmanship, durability, and toughness.
In Fractalis watch, lugs and case are separate pieces. Lugs have small claws at the upper and lower sides, and claws compress bezel and caseback to their places when lugs are tightened to the case with small machine screws. Also, the strap/bracelet is secured firmly with screws instead of spring bars. In contrast to commonly used bulging crystal, in Fractalis crystal lies below the level of the elevated bezel, reducing the risk of any mechanical impact to crystal.
Claws of the lugs compress caseback to the case for good sealing, and there is no need to tighten caseback by rotating it, which could compromise the gasket’s sealing capacity.
The dial of Fractalis is a heavy and solid block of stainless steel/bronze/titanium, and it also serves as a movement holder. Traditionally watch movement is kept in place by dial feet, two thin wires that extrude from the dial back into the movement. This arrangement is susceptible to bending or breaking of the feet, causing movement and hands to break loose.
In Fractalis, movement fits inside the dial block and is locked in place with three screws and a sturdy retainer ring. The above mentioned design choices give Fractalis its unique, strong and easy-to-recognize look, where form follows function. The watch houses a Swiss made ETA2892-A2 self-winding movement.
Finally, materials used in Fractalis range from commonly used 316L stainless steel to much harder and much more corrosion resistant 2205 Super Steel, and further to Grade 5 titanium which is very hard, and basically corrosion-free in any conceivable environment.
Flat sapphire crystal is kept in place under the bezel, which completely prevents the possibility of crystal pop due to air pressure changes.
Technical details
Model: Aittokoski Timecrafts Fractalis
Case
Material choices: Stainless Steel 316L, Super Steel 2205, and Grade 5 Titanium
Scratch & corrosion resistant
Material nickel content from medium (316L) to low (2205) to zero (Titanium)
Special compressor lug design
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness 10 mm
Lug width 22 mm
Lug-to-lug distance 48 mm
Crystal: 1mm thick distortion-free flat sapphire crystal; Retained and guarded by elevated bezel
Water resistance: Verified to 6 bar; Special non-shear gasket arrangement
Movement
Swiss made ETA2892-A2, automatic, mechanical
Frequency: 28’800 vph (4 Hz)
21 jewels
Power reserve: 42 hours
Diameter: 25.6 mm
Dial
Single-block steel with integrated indices
Uncluttered, clean design
Original skeletonized or lumed spring steel hands
Strap
Secure screw attachment for strap/bracelet
Available with a variety of natural rubber and leather straps
Albeit being academically highly educated (Ph.D. in computer science and M.Sc. in sports science), Dr. Timo Aittokoski has his roots deeply grounded in the Finnish countryside. During his formative years as a farmer’s son, he assumed an independent creative mindset needed to keep machinery running and to create complex things from just basic materials with elemental tools.
As an adult, Dr. Aittokoski has treasured keen interest in all things mechanical and technological. He has designed and manufactured progressive and unconventional designs in several fields of engineering, including modern turbocharged motorcycles, traditional V-2 custom motorcycles, snowmobiles, competitive two-stroke engines, power dynamometers, flow benches, complex control electronics, and even loudspeakers.
Dr. Aittokoski pinpoints that his interest in mechanical wristwatches was enhanced probably by John Christopher’s post-apocalyptic sci-fi classic, in which mankind has deteriorated under the rule of Tripods and is largely pastoral, and lifestyle is reminiscent of the Middle Ages, but small artifacts from the Modern Age are still used, such as watches. One of the watches is awe-inspiring to protagonist Will and makes him think that humans must have had a much higher technological level prior to Tripods.
Depancel is a French watch brand founded in 2018 by Clément Meynier, a native of the Jura Mountains, near the Franco-Swiss border.
Before setting up his own watch brand, Clément Meynier had been working as an engineer at CERN (The European Organization for Nuclear Research) in Geneva. Combining a passion for watch making skills with his mechanical knowledge, Clément Meynier set himself the admirable goal of making mechanical watches more accessible to a much wider public. This goal included not only improving upon the price, but also providing greater transparency and understanding about watch making.
By placing its community at the heart of the creative process, Depancel has broken with traditional watch making practices, instead designing products that meet their followers’ needs and expectations. Once developed and prototyped, the creations are submitted to the community before production is started.
Depancel AUTO collection
The brand successfully conducted two Kickstarter crowd-funding campaigns: First one for the Depancel AUTO collection (2018) and the second one for the Depancel [Re]Naissance collection (2019). Presently, the brand sells these timepieces via their online store.
With e-commerce as the cornerstone of its economic model, Depancel has eliminated intermediaries and with them the multiplying factors that can lead to a sale price up to eight times higher than the cost of production.
Depancel [Re]Naissance collectionThe brand goes even further by opting for a pre-ordering system that allows it to produce fitting quantities, thus limiting storage costs, all while ensuring a more sustainable process. This model enables the brand to maintain unusually good value for money, as witnessed by the lifetime warranty for its products, while also continuing to make a tangible impact on local Franche-Comté craftsmanship.
Depancel timepieces draw their design inspiration from the legendary cars manufactured in France. Interestingly, the name Depancel is a contraction of Delage, Panhard and Facel Vega – the three celebrated icons of the motor car industry in France.
With its logo inspired by the 1954 Facel Vega’s radiator grill, its dials resembling instrument panels and its leather straps with a look of drivers’ gloves, the tributes to iconic automobiles are varied in these mechanical watches.
Rajamäen Kellotehdas is a Finland based watch brand established by Simo Ylitalo, a watchmaker with immense experience in traditional watch making sector. In their exclusive mechanical timepieces, the brand successfully merges both the Swiss and the Finnish watch making traditions.
Born in 1967, Simo Ylitalo is an alumnus of The Finnish School of Watchmaking and WOSTEP in Neuchatel, Switzerland. He completed his graduation from Finland’s watch-making school in 1991. He began his career in luxury watch retail sector in Finland and then moved to Switzerland where he had worked with some venerated horology firms like PIAGET (1992 to 1995) and RENAUD ET PAPI (1995 to 1998).
He then returned to Finland and became an instructor at the same Watchmaking School he graduated. Before founding his own watch brand, Simo had also worked with Kari Voutilainen workshop in Switzerland from 2006 to 2007.
In 2007, Simo Ylitalo founded his own horology workshop. Rajamäen Kellotehdas was founded with the purpose of offering watchmaking skills acquired without compromise from both Finland and Switzerland. Initially, his atelier focussed mainly on the restoration of complicated watches and the development of prototypes. In 2011, Rajamäen Kellotehdas launched its first watch. Simo still continues to teach at The Finnish School of Watchmaking located in Tapiola, Espoo.
Rajamäen Kellotehdas is based at Rajamäki, a village in the municipality of Nurmijärvi in southern Finland. This newly established watch brand’s creations are immediately recognizeable and stand out from the crowd, thanks to the original design and their unique, vibrant three dimensional dials. Presently, Rajamäen Kellotehdas offers a line named 12M. Another series called 18M is under development.
12M is an automatic watch equipped with a modified ETA 2892-2 Swiss made self-winding movement.
It comes with a 41mm diameter and 11.5mm thick stainless steel case featuring polished finish or dark grey diamond-like coating. Its front glass and transparent caseback are made from scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.
Fixed with three screws, its three-dimensional dial feature Arabic numeral embedded blocks as hour-markers and 5-minute markers. Made from Alumec with diamond-like coating, the dial of 12M model features 4 layers: the centre dial, the ring with hour-marker blocks, the ring with brand name RAJAMÄEN KELLOTEHDAS and the outer minute track. The centre dial can be a plain surface featuring the same dial color or a mesh.
The Rajamäen Kellotehdas 12M watch is available with Dark grey, Blue (Alu 6082 anodized), Orange, Green, Lingonberry Red, Purple and Bronze dial versions.
The 12M watch indicates hour, minute, seconds and date. All the three hands are embedded with luminous material. The date window is placed at 3’o clock. The 12M watch can be worn on leather strap, stainless steel bracelet or bi-material (leather/rubber) strap.
When viewing from the caseback side, you will find a colored ring that surrounds the movement. Featuring the same color of the front dial, this ring also features brand name, model number and serial number.
The decorated self-winding movement can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back. The custom rotor features five drilled holes.
The proposed 18M model features a heat-treated stainless steel with grained and polished finish. It measures Ø 40mm diameter and 11.5mm thickness. The 18M watch is fitted with sapphire crystal front and back. Movement is a modified ETA 2896 self-winding calibre made in Switzerland. This timepiece does not feature traditional watch hands; instead it comes with triangular markers and discs.
Founded by Alessandro Staffetta, AS Watches is an Italian micro-brand specialized in the manufacturing of extremely rugged watches. These solid automatic watches can be customized and available only in limited quantities.
Presently, Alessandro Staffetta offers two models: BIG ONE and PATO. As the name suggests, BIG ONE is a massive timepiece with 48mm case diameter, 52mm lug to lug length and 18.5mm thickness. PATO is also a big watch but it is smaller than the BIG ONE.
PATO measures 44mm diameter, 52mm lug to lug length and 16.7mm thickness. Both timepieces are available with CNC machined stainless steel 316L, Bronze CuSn 12 or titanium cases.
Both BIG ONE and PATO share some common features, for example the movement powering these watches is the iconic ETA 2824/2 Swiss made self-winding movement. They features sandwich dials painted to airbrush and customized on words. Both come with custom made hands and hand-made straps. A major common attraction of these watch models is the big crown located at 10 o’ clock and its towering crown guards.
These models differ in a number of technical features. For example, the BIG ONE model features a CNC machined and hand polished Plexy glass as the front crystal where as the PATO model is fitted with a sapphire crystal glass.
Further, the BIG ONE has a water resistance up to 100 atm (1000 meters) while PATO maintains a 70 ATM (700 meters) water resistance.
BOTTA design is a German company that operates in two business sectors. On the one hand, BOTTA design develops and sells high-quality wristwatches with high design standards under the BOTTA brand. On the other hand, BOTTA design is active as a service agency in product design.
Founded in 1986 by product and industrial designer Klaus Botta, BOTTA design creates and develops watches with a clear and characteristic design language and special display principles.
The concept of the single-hand watches is an example of this. The UNO (1986) was the first single-hand wristwatch of modern times. With its reduced display, it symbolizes the relaxed approach to time. The portfolio of BOTTA design includes single-hand watches either with a 12h or 24h display as well as multi-hand watches. This results in a product range with extraordinary display principles. The watches are available both as automatic and quartz models.
The design quality of the products has been honoured with more than 60 international design awards, including the „red dot design award“, the „if design award“, and the „good design award“.
Klaus Botta, the founder of BOTTA Design
Klaus Botta founded his design agency in 1986 during his studies. From then on he both designed products for the industry as well as watches.
In the beginning Botta developed wristwatches for Junghans, Bestform, Watch People and other brands. During this time design classics such as the UNO, the Junghans-Solar-1, the TRES, the Titan-1, the IKON or the HELIOS were created. Since 1999 he has been selling his watches under his own name. Klaus Botta has been living in Königstein im Taunus since 2003.
Klaus Botta, the founder of BOTTA Design, with his team
Klaus Botta first studied technical physics at the University of Bayreuth. This was followed by studies in industrial design and product design at the Hochschule für Gestaltung (HfG) in Offenbach. Botta attached great importance to practical orientation from the very beginning. He regularly enhanced his academic qualifications with demanding Internships in the fields of metal, wood and plastics processing as well as aircraft construction.
He completed further internships in the design department of Adam Opel AG in Rüsselsheim and with Albrecht Graf Goertz, designer of the legendary BMW 507. Curiosity is an important drive for visionaries like Klaus Botta. He views life from a generalist perspective, but also has an eye for every detail. This is how products and watches with a high degree of innovation are created in his design studio.
Milestones
UNO (1986)
In 1986 Klaus Botta revolutionized the perception of time: The UNO was the first one-hand wristwatch of modern times. As original of one-hand watches, it has long been a design classic. Its pioneering display principle serves as role model for a complete watch segment. To this day, the principle of the one-hand watch is an essential component in the range of BOTTA design.
Junghans Solar-1 (1994)
At first Klaus Botta did not sell the watches under his own name. He designed numerous watch models for various manufacturers. Among them even established brands like Junghans. The Junghans Solar-1, the first solar wristwatch of the world, was designed by Klaus Botta.
Titan-1 (1993)
In 1993 titanium watch cases were a novelty on the watch market. The Titan-1 was one of the first models with the new material and thus performed pioneering work in this field. It was available through the catalogue of the distributor Pro-Idee and became an absolute bestseller.
Helios, Clavius, Solus (2007)
The series, consisting of three watches, features a special clarity of design. The watches are also characterized by a particularly flat case and therefore appear remarkably light. Here, again, titanium was used as a material.
BOTTA product design
In addition to the development and distribution of watches under the brand „BOTTA“, BOTTA design also works as industrial design office for clients of the most diverse industries. The focus of the projects is on technical design and the design of electronic devices. With its core team of designers and technicians, BOTTA design, together with selected partners, offers a wide range of services from one hand – from design to construction, project management and consulting included.
BOTTA Watch Collection
BOTTA design watches turn time into a special experience. They are characterised by extraordinary display concepts. Single or multi-handed/12-hour or 24-hour display – BOTTA watches encourage a conscious approach to time. At the same time, all watches develop very individual characters through their sensitive design.
BOTTA design places great value on the highest quality right from the choice of materials: Most BOTTA watches are already equipped with a three-part titanium case (Tri-Titanium). The glasses of the watches are made of scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.
All BOTTA watches are powered by Swiss Made automatic or quartz movements from Swiss brands Ronda or ETA. The design and development department is located in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt am Main. The watches are also completely assembled in Germany. The vegetable tanned leather watch straps are also made in Germany.
The brands present collection includes models like UNO (12-hour one-hand watch), NOVA (12-hour one-hand watch), UNO 24 (24-hour one-hand watch), MONDO (GMT watch), TRES (12-hour multi-hand watch) and TRES 24 (24-hour multi-hand watch).
Based in Springfield, IL, Sangamon Watch Company was founded in 2019 by two international business travelers. Co-founders Tyler McKay and Brian Su wanted to combine their passions of watches and history, along with their business expertise, to design historically inspired watches. Every Sangamon watch is hand assembled in limited quantities and based on a special inspirational story.
Sangamon Watch Company successfully launched 3 collections during 2020, specifically Lincoln’s River, Omaha Beach and Mother Road Collections.
Sangamon Watch Company is named after the Sangamon River, which runs from Central Illinois and feeds into the Mississippi River. The river was loved by Abraham Lincoln, whose family settled along the river when he was a young man. The Sangamon region was also home to one of the finest watchmakers in the United States- the Illinois Watch Company.
TRIBUS is an ambitious new Swiss watch brand operating out of Liverpool, UK and Lugano, Switzerland. Made its debut in 2020, the brand was founded by the three sons of Christopher Ward: Jonathon, James and Jake.
The Ward brothers are backed by a team that has accumulated decades of experience in the watch industry. This informed the decision to focus on Swiss manufacture wherever possible, with all TRIBUS watches featuring Swiss-made movements and cases. The core TRIBUS range, comprising of four models with ‘retro-temporary’ styling inspired by the dress watches of the 1940s and ‘50s, will also be chronometer-certified.
Beyond its own range, TRIBUS chooses exciting collaborations in the worlds of art, history and sport. Proud of its Liverpool roots, the brand is presently the Official Wristwatch Partner to Liverpool Football Club.
Inspired to create their own brand by their father Chris, their focus is on collaboration, storytelling and precision engineering. Announced in September 2020, the TRIBUS introductory collection comprises of three separate sections: its own TRIBUS series, a Liverpool FC collection and a Battle of Britain 80th Anniversary limited edition piece.
TRIBUS places an emphasis on utilising Swiss production wherever possible, using Swiss-made movements and cases. Accompanied by bold imagery that aims to inject energy and humour into the straight-laced Swiss marketplace, TRIBUS lives by its motto: ‘Forget what you think you know’.
ELEGANTSIS is a Taiwan (Republic of China) based watch brand founded by MK Cheng in 1999. Originally incorporated with the brand name ELEGANT for offering ladies’ watches, the company accepted the new name “ELEGANTSIS” in 2011 to include men with “s” for “she” and “is” for “his”. In the same year, the brand began producing men’s wristwatches with casual/trendy military based designs. In 2014, the brand made its international debut. ELEGANTSIS watches are dedicated to fashion and adventure loving customers.
ELEGANTSIS watches can be purchased from authorized dealers, traditional watch &jewelry boutiques, design boutiques and department stores of selected countries as well as from online stores. Presently the brand has its presence in countries like Hong Kong, Macau, Thailand, Philippines, South Korea, Japan, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, China, India, Spain, Russia, Belgium, Australia, Iran, Brazil, UAE and Saudi Arabia.
ELEGANTSIS Watch Collections
Apart from its regular collections, the brand also produces wristwatches for Taiwanese military organizations and other collaborative projects. It successfully undertook ODM projects for Taiwan Military to design “The Black Bat” Collection for its 60th Anniversary (2015), 1st & 2nd Generation “Grumman S-2 Tracker” Collections (2017).
ELEGANTSIS J048MAS-256: ROCN 256 Squadron special edition
In addition, ELEGANTSIS has also created special edition military watches honoring units of Republic of China Navy like ROCN-UDU (Republic of China Ship – Underwater Demolition Unit), the 256 Submarine Squadron and Naval Staff& Command College. Further, the JX48MAS Flying Tigers special edition watch collection honors the Flying Tigers Squadron, the First American Volunteer Group of the Republic of China Air Force in 1941–1942.
ELEGANTSIS J048MAS Flying Tigers special edition
The other military watches include special limited edition Army Armor series honoring ROCA (Republic of China Army), special edition C-130 Hercules chronograph, RCSS Airforce Taipei Songshan Airport special edition, Republic of China Army National Defense University (NDU) War College special edition, Republic of China Army Airborne Special Forces special edition, Republic of China Airforce Anti-Submarine Warfare Group special edition, and Republic of China Marine Corps special edition. The brand also offers a number of military style wrist watches.
ELEGANTSIS has also collaborated with JSK Moto. Co. of LA, California for the JX65AS Collection. The brand also offers some motorcycling inspired and fashionable wristwatches for both men and women.
ELEGANTSIS JX65AS Collection: Collaboration with JSK Moto. Co. LA, California, USA
ELEGANTSIS Watches are dedicated to masculine hands. So, they come with massive cases made from 316L stainless steel, PVD-coated stainless steel or Titanium. The watches are fitted with sapphire crystal or German K1 glass depending upon the models. The watches also employ good-quality luminous material to ensure night time reading.
The brand offers both automatic and quartz watch collections. The engines behind the ELEGANTSIS timepieces are either Swiss made or of Japanese origin. Most of the ELEGANTSIS Watches have a water resistance of minimum 100 meters; some models have 200 or 300 meters water resistance.
ELEGANTSIS Military Special Editions
ELEGANTSIS ROCN-UDU special edition
Diameter: 44mm
Case: Titanium
Water Resistant: 300m
Glass: Sapphire Crystal with Anti -Reflective Coating
Movement: Sellita SW200
Bracelet: Titanium Bracelet
Lume: C3 SuperlumiNova
ELEGANTSIS J048MAS-256: ROCN 256 Squadron special edition
Diameter: 45.5mm
Case: PVD Black 316L Stainless Steel
Water Resistant: 200m
Glass: Sapphire Crystal with Anti -Reflective Coating
Movement: SII NE15
Strap: Premium Silicon Strap
Lume: C3 SuperlumiNova
ELEGANTSIS J048MAS Flying Tigers special edition
Diameter: 45.5 mm
Lug: 22 mm
Case: 316L Stainless Steel and in PVD Vintage Black Finishing
Movement: Automatic with Power Reserve of 50 hours
Water Resistant: 200 m
Glass: Sapphire Crystal with Anti-Reflective Coating
Lume: Swiss SuperlumiNova
Strap: Italian Leather & Silicon Straps
ELEGANTSIS C-130 Hercules Chronograph special edition
Diameter: 48mm
Lug width: 24mm
Case: PVD Rustic Black 316L Stainless Steel
Water Resistant: 100m
Glass: Sapphire Crystal with Anti -Reflective Coating
Movement: Miyota Quartz Chronograph
Strap: Customized Italian Calf Leather Strap
Lume: C3 SuperlumiNova
Taiwan and USA models are available
ELEGANTSIS J048MAS NCSC (Naval Staff & Command College) special edition
Diameter: 45.5 mm
Lug: 22 mm
Case: 316L Stainless Steel and in PVD Black
Movement: Automatic with Power Reserve of 38 hours
Water Resistant: 200 m
Glass: Sapphire Crystal with Anti-Reflective Coating
Lume: Swiss SuperlumiNova
Strap: Italian Leather & Silicon Straps
ELEGANTSIS JX48AS-ROCA special edition
Diameter: 48 MM
Lug: 24 mm
Case: 316L Stainless Steel and in PVD Black
Movement: Automatic with Power Reserve of 38 hours
Water Resistant: 100 m
Glass: Sapphire Crystal with Anti-Reflective Coating
Lume: Swiss SuperlumiNova
Strap: Italian Leather
ELEGANTSIS J065AS-RCSS: RCSS Airforce Taipei Songshan Airport special edition
Nivada Grenchen is a Swiss watch brand founded in the 1920s. Its origins trace back to 1926, when Jacob Schneider established the watch company Wüllimann Schneider Nivada S.A. in the town of Grenchen located in the north-east region of Switzerland.
The company mainly produced affordable mechanical watches using movements from manufactures like Phénix S.A. and Ebauches SA. It was one of the first Swiss brands to offer automatic watches.
Croton distributed Nivada Grenchen watches in the United States. Many of these watches featured the names of both companies on their dials to highlight the partnership.
Their notable watch collections are Antarctic (1950), Chronomaster (1963), Depthomatic (1964) and Depthmaster (1965). In the 1970s, with the introduction of Quartz watches, many Swiss watch companies had to cease mechanical watch production. The Nivada Grenchen Company found it difficult to survive despite its efforts to catch up the quartz revolution. In the 1980s, the brand rights were sold to a South Korean watch company and after some years, the Mexican business group Industrial Omega SA de CV acquired the NIVADA brand, and they still own it.
The new owners based in Mexico offers quartz watches bearing NIVADA SWISS brand name, especially for the Mexican domestic market. In 2018, two watchmaking entrepreneurs – Guillaume Laidet and Remi Chabrat – have decided to revive the NIVADA brand with its original legacy.
Guillaume Laidet is the founder of William L.1985 watch brand. Remi Chabrat is the owner of the Montrichard Group, the private label watch manufacturer with an immense experience in the production of wristwatches. As a private label watchmaker, Remi also has business relationship with the Mexican group (Grupo Industrial Omega SA de CV) who owned the Nivada brand. In 2019, the Industrial Omega SA de CV group gave Guillaume and Remi the license to use the Nivada Grenchen copyright.
As a first step to revive the iconic Nivada Grenchen brand, both Guillaume and Remi have announced the re-editions of the Chronomaster and the Antarctic watch models. The new collections are Swiss made and utilize Sellita mechanical movements.
Yvan Monnet is an independent watch brand based in Geneva. It was founded by Yvan Monnet, an experienced watchmaker from the historic “Cabinotiers” district of Geneva. As of now, the brand offers two flagship collections: FIVE and Mina.
Yvan Monnet’s mechanical timepieces have an identity characteristic that is the supreme Grail in watchmaking: a shape that is instantly identifiable. This particular design immediately associates these watches with this independent watchmaker who restores luster and nobility to the watchmaking and finishing arts.
The atypical pentagonal shape of Yvan Monnet’s watches is now conquering more and more followers, both among collectors and trendy enthusiasts. The elegant watch cases with five sides please free, non-conformist people. They reflect a successful integration of perfect roundness, cleverly tamed angles and invisible and subtle aesthetic balances.
With the privilege of a some twenty years professional career in the most prestigious Geneva watch manufactures, he has decided to use this age-old know-how for a project that suits him; a brand that embodies quality and expertise. His time at Patek Philippe has allowed him to become familiar with the intricacies of watch decoration and the art of the brand’s finishings.
His support functions for the Historic Pieces Department and the “Métiers d’Art” Department gave him the opportunity to acquire solid knowledge in the conception of the watch case. He then developed his expertise as a creator at Vacheron Constantin by designing cases and dials with decorative applications in collaboration with renowned craftsmen. He has also acquired a special know-how in the production of pocket watches and minute repeaters.
Today, Yvan Monnet creates timepieces featuring an innovative and totally unexpected pure shape. His pentagonal creations are promises for the future in a context of globalized uniformity. Today, through the FIVE and Mina collections, they embody a desirability made of originality. A slightly rebellious approach, entrusted to passionate artists and craftsmen for whom the added value does not only come from the designer or the motorist, but from an entire chain where, for example, the ‘finisher’ can change the appearance of a watch product.
Contact details
YvM²-YvanMonneT-Genève Place Simon Goulart, 2 CH-1201 Genève Website: https://ymonnet.ch/
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