BLU (Bernard Lederer Universe) Watches

BLU(Bernard Lederer Universe) is a Swiss luxury watch brand founded by Bernard Lederer, a watch maker and designer. In his apprenticeship days Bernhard Lederer loved to work on extraordinary and complicated timepieces. With intelligence and purpose he studied the art of watchmaking and thought himself into the minds of the Great Masters but drew personal conclusions. The young German watchmaker had his own vision of time and was eager to apply the newly acquired knowledge in an exciting and innovative context. Today, Bernhard Lederer has made a name for himself with an original collection of stunning watch designs and audacious time display interpretations.

BLU Duett

While the traditional “Swiss made” hallmark bears little to no significance for BLU timepieces, the Bernhard Lederer Universe company relocated from Germany a little less than a decade ago because Switzerland is internationally recognized as the core of modern watchmaking, and even more importantly for the young watch brand, it evokes a magnetic attraction to all travellers, philosophers and technicians in time. Located in the Swiss village of Colombier near the Lake of Neuchâtel, the BLU manufacture is established in a modern infrastructure of over 1400 square meters, which houses the watch component workshops, the finishing and assembly ateliers as well as shop and office facilities.

Blu Majesty Tourbillon MT3

All Bernhard Lederer’s watches meet strict technical and aesthetic requirements in order to satisfy high international standards and the expectations of fervent watch connoisseurs. To do so, only the finest toolmakers, finish-craftsmen, engineers and watchmakers from all over Europe are employed. They communicate in their own meta language: PRECISION.

BLU Open Planet

Not only is the BLU workforce multicultural, but it also demonstrates exceptional multi-task capacities. The Bernhard Lederer Universe comprises 10 charismatic individuals, who between them speak 7 languages, are each specialists in their own field, and are totally complementary. This synergy motivates and impels the entire team to set high goals and to push creative and technical boundaries further.

Bernhard Lederer is a key player in the BLU team. He sees himself more as the driving force, willfully choosing not to adopt an executive or even a director’s role. Instead, rather like a ship’s captain, he expertly uses his 30 years of watchmaking experience to guide and ensure that his boat stays on course, makes headway… and reaches final destination in grand style! Bernhard Lederer knows how to suggest and put forward ideas, he never thrusts them upon his team. Such team spirit calls for enormous personal commitment but offers infinite opportunities to learn and development new skills. All the BLU team members participate in each and every project. The final product, on every occasion, is the result of an exceptional fusion of teamwork – a distinctive feature that sets the Bernhard Lederer Universe apart from other companies.

BLU Gagarin Tourbillon

Company: BLU SA
BLU SA is an independent enterprise in the world of Haute Horlogerie, using comparatively conventional methods to create highly unconventional timepieces. The combination of contemporary aesthetics and refined technical details gives rise to surprising design solutions. “Traditional watchmaking no longer holds any secrets,” explains Bernhard Lederer. “It is our turn to create new traditions.” Instead of conventional hands, BLU watches have discs that turn on dials bearing no numbers, or small dials that revolve within a larger, rotating dial. Other watch versions eliminate the necessity for dials, hands or numbers altogether, where the entire movement turns on three levels with three different rotating speeds.

COMPLICATED INSIDE, NOT OUTSIDE
Reading the time on a BLU watch is very simple, an almost intuitive experience. Complications for complication’s sake are certainly not Bernhard Lederer’s cup of tea: “Mechanisms and aesthetics are very closely linked. In fact, I would say they are totally inseparable in my watches“, he confirms. “Both elements are vital, from the outset of a new concept or watch design and are the key ingredients to finding new, fascinating and inventive ways of displaying the continuous flow of time.” BLU creations do not follow the watch industry’s marketing trends – each Bernhard Lederer Universe watch design is inspired by and is the result of a collective enthusiasm, a common goal to attain perfection and to be distinctive.

Collections

  • Classics
  • Planets
  • Galaxy
  • Tourbillons
  • Fine Jewels

About Bernhard Lederer
Bernhard Lederer was born in 1958 near Stuttgart, Germany. After a watchmaking apprenticeship he qualified as a Master Watchmaker in 1984 and opened an atelier specializing in restoration and developing his own timepieces. In 1985 Lederer became a founding member of the prestigious A.H.C.I. (Horological Academy of Independent Watchmakers).

Lederer’s innovative timepieces include a clock with a moon phase needing correction only after 1,000 years, and an award-winning sculptural clock called “Trojka”. A series of wristwatches with orbiting disks was awarded German Watch of the Year in 1996.In 1997 in Brazil Lederer managed a commemorative project consisting of 24 monumental (14metres/45 feet) countdown clocks. He relocated to Neuchâtel, Switzerland in 2000 and founded the haute horlogerie watch brand BLU (Bernhard Lederer Universe).

Lederer’s timepieces won the 2006 Middle East Watches and Jewellery prize for Best High-End Jewelled Watch (BLU Baguette), and the 2007 Kuala Lumpur Most Revered Watch prize (MT3 Orbiting Triple-Axis Tourbillon). Bernhard Lederer’s philosophy is to create timepieces that tell the time without imposing it on theviewer, allowing the wearer to appreciate the beauty of time without being stressed by it racing by.

 

BLU Gagarin Tourbillon Limited Edition

In 1961, Russian cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin became the first man in space in a historical achievement. The Gagarin Tourbillon, launched in 2011 by Bernhard Lederer celebrates the 50th anniversary of this historic event.

The Gagarin Tourbillon features a 60-second flying tourbillon that rotates counter clockwise around the dial counter in 108 minutes. An integrated rotating magnifying glass allows appreciation of details on the dial. Looking through the loupe to the dial is reminiscent of looking out of the Vostok space capsule towards the earth. The finely hand finished mechanical movement was entirely developed and produced by Bernhard Lederer in Switzerland. The Gagarin Tourbillon is a limited edition of 50 pieces in platinum.

The Gagarin Tourbillon features a 60-second flying orbital tourbillon that rotates counterclockwise (symbolising east) 360° around the dial in 108 minutes, which is the time Gagarin took to orbit the earth in the Vostok capsule. The tourbillon appears suspended by a sweeping bridge inspired by the large 25 m (82 ft) commemorative statue at Gagarin’s landing site near Engels. The tourbillon cage is formed by the word “VOSTOK” spelt vertically and curved around its perimeter.

The case of the Gagarin Tourbillon is in high grade 950 platinum and incorporates an integrated rotating magnifying glass that allows more detailed appreciation of the tourbillon and details on the dial. The magnifying glass is locked in place by a catch inspired by a hatch on the Vostok capsule.

The finely hand finished mechanical movement of the Gagarin Tourbillon is manual winding with three mainspring barrels providing a power reserve of approximately 80 hours. The complex movement with 264 components and 35 jewels was entirely designed, developed and manufactured by Berhnard Lederer in Switzerland.

The Gagarin Tourbillon is a limited edition of 50 pieces in platinum featuring a unique flying tourbillon. Unique 60-second tourbillon orbiting the dial counter clockwise in 108 minutes; hour and minutes; manual winding mechanical movement.

Technical details
Movement
Mechanical manual winding movement developed and produced by Bernhard Lederer in Switzerland
Tourbillon cage: Forming the word “VOSTOK”
Dimensions: 38 mm x 11.5 mm
Balance frequency: 28, 800 bph/4 Hz
No. of components: 264
No. of jewels: 35
No. of barrels: 3
Power reserve: 80 hours

Case
Case Featuring integrated rotating magnifying glass
Case material: Platinum 950
Dimensions: 42 mm x 15 mm (case), 46.5 mm with magnifying glass ring
Water resistant: 30 meters/3 ATM
Sapphire crystals: Sapphire crystal and sapphire crystal display

Dial
Indications: Hours and minutes
Micro-engraved text with highlights of Yuri Gagarin’s flight

Strap
Black hand-stitched alligator strap with platinum tang buckle

Blu Planet Collection

Swiss luxury watch brand BLU’s concept with the Planet collection is to break with timekeeping’s most hallowed tradition: using hands to indicate the time by pointing to markers on the dial. The BLU Planets uses instead mankind’s most natural and fundamental appreciation of time – the revolution of our planet and its orbit around the sun.

In the Planet collection, a man-made miniature of the universe rotates on its axis like a planet orbiting the sun.

Blu Planet watch

The main dial of the Blu Planet watch revolves on their axis every 12 hours indicating the hours, while a sub-dial set into the main disk displays the minutes in a (relatively) traditional manner, where the full hour position is always upright.

Blu Planet watch

Art in their own right, the Planet watches by BLU (Bernhard Lederer Universe) are designed to create a sense of balance and tranquility with the displays maintaining their own harmonious space. The innovative displays are sublimely designed to emphasize the difference between indicating time and interpreting the time.

Technical details

Planet Collection by Bernhard Lederer Universe

Functions
Hours, minutes

Movement
Calibre BL700
Diameter: 11.5 lines
Automatic winding in both directions on ceramic bearing
Power reserve: 42 hours
Balance frequency: 28, 800 bph/4Hz
Number of jewels: 27

Model: Blu Planet Paris

Case: Available in red gold, white gold and stainless steel
Display back: Sapphire crystal
Dial: Available in any of black, palladium and coppered, ‘Clous de Paris’.
Diameter: 39mm x 13.4mm, 42mm x 13.8mm
Strap and buckle: Alligator leather with deployment buckle.
Lugs: Cylindrical lugs rotate to provide a more comfortable fit.
Water resistance: 30 meters

Model: Blu Planet Atoll

Case: Available in red gold, white gold and stainless steel, with or without diamonds
Dial: Available in Mother of Pearl or Aventurine; sub-dial with 36 diamonds and one sapphire.
Diameter: 36mm x 11.6mm, 39mm x 13.4mm and 42mm x 13.8mm
Strap: Alligator leather.
Lugs: Cylindrical lugs rotate to provide a more comfortable fit.
Water resistance: 30 meters

Blu Terzett

The clean and modern design of the Blu Terzett watch is inspired by traditional regulator-style timepieces.

Bold, engine-turned horizontal lines provide a deep three-dimensionality of the dial across the face of the watch. The hour ring is suspended between the double rings of the minutes and supports the upper section of the minutes dial. Mirror-polished indexes are positioned at 5-minute increments.

BLU (Bernhard Lederer Universe) Terzett watch

The partially open-worked rhodium-plated minute ring features a brushed finish that visually dominates the structured surface of the main dial, as well as the lower hour ring. At its extremities, the one-piece upper minute ring is ingeniously shaped to included indexes at 3 and 9 o’clock.

BLU (Bernhard Lederer Universe) Terzett watch

The date display at 6 o’clock forms a harmonious balance with the other indications on the multi-leveled dial. Mirror-polished blued or gold-plated hands add a final zest of contemporary appeal.

Technical details

Model: Blu Terzett watch

Functions
Hours, minutes, date

Movement
Calibre BL703
Diameter: 11.5 lines
Automatic winding in both directions on ceramic bearing
Power reserve: 42 hours
Balance frequency: 28,800 bph/ 4Hz
Number of jewels: 21

Case
Available in white gold, red gold and stainless steel
Display back: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 meters

Dial
Black guilloche
Diameter: 39mm x 13.4mm; 42 mm x 13.8mm

Strap and buckle
Alligator leather with deployment buckle
Lugs: Cylindrical lugs rotate to provide a more comfortable fit

Blu Majesty Tourbillon MT3

The Blu Majesty Tourbillon MT3, which had its debut on the Baselworld 2007 watch fair, is a truly majestic timepiece equipped with technically revolutionary triple tourbillon movements.

This limited edition timepiece has no dial so that the movement and the three orbiting tourbillons can be admired in all their splendour. Each rotates at a different speed, one displaying the hours, another the minutes, and a third the seconds. The golden bezel of the watchcase towers on twelve visible columns, each serves as an hour index.

In the foreground rotates a semi-flying minute tourbillon, mounted on the cage of a flying hour tourbillon, which in turn is carried around the dial by a big 12-hour tourbillon. The power needed to move such a complex mechanism with extreme precision is delivered by twin going barrels hidden under the baseplate – a space which in conventional movements is occupied by the gear cascades. In the case of the Blu Majesty Tourbillon MT3 there is no need for seperate gears, as both going train and dial train are incorporated in the ballet of tourbillons displayed on the watch face.

To obtain a logical and „organic“ rotational speed, the escapement in the semi-flying tourbillon beats at a rate of 14.400 v.p.h. or 2 Hertz. The balance wheel has a rather huge diameter (13 mm) and swings considerably slower than most contemporary movements, allowing at every turning point a glimpse at the delicately shaped mechanical marvel.

Technical details

Movement
Hand-wound, designed and crafted entirely in-house, BL 707 calibre, 32 rubies, 18,000 vib/h, series-coupled twin barrel, 72-hour power reserve, exclusive finishing

Functions
Hours (12-hour tourbillon), minutes (1-hour tourbillon), seconds (1-minute tourbillon)

Case
18K white or red gold, 43 mm, individually-numbered

Dial
Absence of dial for admiring the perfection and exclusive finishing of the movement

Strap
Black, hand-sewn alligator leather