The Horological Society of New York (HSNY) has announced the details of the timepieces for HSNY: 2022 Charity Auction, presented online by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo from July 6-13, 2022.
Now in its second year as an online auction, HSNY members and friends will have the opportunity to bid from anywhere in the world for a great cause. All sale proceeds will benefit HSNY in its ongoing mission to advance the art and science of horology, which includes offering financial aid to watchmaking institutions and scholarships to full-time watchmaking students.
Bidders can expect top picks from Swiss, German, Japanese and American brands, including limited edition, sold-out timepieces, a coveted Tiffany stamped watch, vintage gems, a prototype model and much more. Best of all, a ‘No Reserve’ policy will apply to all timepieces, encouraging auction-goers to bid enthusiastically.
Lot items from Timepieces for HSNY: 2022 Charity Auction include:
Lot 1: Unimatic x Massena LAB, U1-MLBN “Family and Friends”, DLC-plated stainless steel, circa 2020. Brand New. Donated by Massena LAB.
Lot 2: NOMOS Glashütte, Ludwig Neomatik 39, stainless steel, circa 2020. Brand New. Donated by NOMOS Glashütte.
Lot 3: Equation of Time x Atom Moore ‘Fat Arrow’ Prototype, stainless steel, circa 2022. Brand New, with limited edition metal print. Atom Moore and Roland Murphy/EOT Watches.
Lot 4: GRAND SEIKO, Reference SBGW277 U.S. Exclusive, stainless steel, circa 2021. Brand New. Donated by Grand Seiko.
Lot 5: ULYSSE NARDIN, Open-face chronograph pocket watch with certificate and presentation box, gunmetal blue steel, circa 1912. Donated by Ulysse Nardin.
Lot 6: JAEGER-LECOULTRE, Reverso, stainless steel, circa 2022. Brand New. Donated by Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Lot 7: PATEK PHILIPPE, Reference 715, open-face pocket watch retailed by Tiffany & Co., 18K yellow gold, circa 1967. Donated by Collectability.
Lot 8: TAG HEUER, HODINKEE TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Dato’ Limited Edition, stainless steel, circa 2020. Brand New. Donated by HODINKEE.
Lot 9: ZENITH, Collective x Zenith Chronomaster El Primero C.01, stainless steel, circa 2019. Brand New. Donated by Collective Horology.
About the Horological Society of New York
Founded in 1866, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) is one of the oldest continuously operating horological associations in the world. Today, HSNY is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization dedicated to advancing the art and science of horology through education. Members are a diverse mix of watchmakers, clockmakers, executives, journalists, auctioneers, historians, salespeople and collectors, reflecting the rich nature of horology in New York City and around the world.
Concluding a white glove season for Phillips Watches, The New York Watch Auction: SIX realized $30.3 million – more than tripling its pre-sale total low estimate of $9.8 million. Bringing the Spring season total for the category to $127.2 million, the results reaffirm Phillips’ place as the global market leader.
Multiple records for individual models in the fields of vintage, contemporary, and independents were achieved during the live auction at Phillips’ New York headquarters at 432 Park Avenue. Bidders from the international community, across nearly 70 countries, vied for rare and historic timepieces, participating in the room, online, and over the phone.
Leading the auction was the very first platinum George Daniels Anniversary Watch ever made, bearing the unique serial number “00.” Realizing $2,389,500, it set a record for any George Daniels wristwatch – and any British-made wristwatch – sold at auction.
Following its launch in 2010, a total of 47 watches were made to commemorate the 35th anniversary of the co-axial escapement, with just four examples produced in platinum, like the present lot. George Daniels wanted the Anniversary model to also be a celebration of his life’s work, and the platinum “00” is a wonderful representation of the best in handmade, traditional English watchmaking. A portion of the proceeds from the sale will benefit The George Daniels Educational Trust, The Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, and the Horological Society of New York.
A fresh-to-market Rolex Paul Newman Daytona Lemon ref. 6264 soared past its estimate to over $2 million. Named “El Limoncito” as an homage to the Mexican origins of the family who owned this watch since its production in 1969, the watch’s bracelet is also stamped “Hecho in Mexico.” With its grèné yellow dial, black subdials, and white graphics, the Lemon is perhaps the most striking and unusual configuration of Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman and is seldom seen publicly.
Independent makers also saw fierce competition, with three examples by F.P.Journe selling for over $1 million. A unique and historically important F. P.Journe platinum Chronomètre Souverain wristwatch, which was gifted to George Daniels by none other than Mr. Journe, realized $1,482,000, nearly six times its low estimate and a world record for the model at auction.
The Tourbillon Souverain with jade dial saw spirited bidding up to $1,240,000 against an estimate of $200,000-400,000, while the Tourbillon Souverain No. 035/99T sold for $1,361,000.
Timepieces by DeBethune, Greubel Forsey, Urban Jurgensen, and Konstantin Chaykin also performed exceptionally well.
TAG Heuer Museum acquired James Garner’s unique Carrera for a record price of $176,400.
The upcoming Phillips online watch auctions are The Horological Society of New York Charity Online Auction II sale taking place from 6 to 13 July and the Hong Kong Online Watch Auction I taking place from 21 to 28 July.
Top Ten Lots
Lot 12: George Daniels, Anniversary
An extremely rare, spectacular, and historically important platinum co-axial limited-edition wristwatch with date and power reserve indication, bearing serial number “00”, with a portion of the proceeds to benefit The George Daniels Educational Trust, The Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, and the Horological Society of New York, Circa 2019. Estimate: $500,000 – 1,000,000. Sold for $2,389,500 (world auction record for a British wristwatch).
Lot 111: Rolex, Daytona Paul Newman Lemon, Ref. 6264
An outstanding, fresh-to-the-market, exceptionally wellpreserved, and extremely rare yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with ‘Paul Newman Lemon’ exotic dial, white subdial graphics, and bracelet, offered by the family of the original owner, Circa 1969. Estimate: $600,000 – 1,200,000. Sold for $2,087,000 (world auction record for the model)
Lot 115: F.P. Journe, Chronometre Souverain
A unique and historically important platinum wristwatch with power reserve indication, Presented to George Daniels, with signed F. P. Journe letter and presentation box, 2010
Estimate: $250,000 – 500,000. Sold for $1,482,000 (world auction record for the model).
Lot 116: F.P. Journe, Tourbillon Souverain
A very early, historically important, and attractive platinum tourbillon wristwatch with remontoir d’egalité, and certificate of authenticity, numbered 035/99T, 1999. Estimate: $300,000 – 600,000. Sold for $1,361,000.
Lot 10: F.P. Journe, Tourbillon Souverain
A sublime and extremely rare tourbillon wristwatch with jade dial, constant force remontoire, power reserve, dead beat seconds, certificate of authenticity, and presentation box, 2015. Estimate: $200,000 – 400,000. Sold for $1,240,000 (world auction record for the model)
Lot 19: Patek Philippe, Ref. 5016R-010
An extremely special, rare, and well-preserved pink gold perpetual calendar minute repeating tourbillon wristwatch with additional black diamond dial, retrograde date, moon phase, Breguet numerals, Circa 2001. Estimate: $300,000 – 600,000. Sold for $840,700.
Lot 11: Roger Smith, Series 2 Open Dial
A magnificent and extremely limited platinum wristwatch with open dial, power reserve indication, booklet, and presentation box, 2017. Estimate: $150,000 – 300,000. Sold for $840,700 (world auction record for the brand)
Lot 110: Rolex, Daytona Rainbow, Ref. 116595RBOW
A like new, dazzling, audacious, and unworn pink gold, diamond, and sapphire-set chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, guarantee, and presentation box, Circa 2018. Estimate: $200,000 – 400,000. Sold for $693,000 (world auction record for the model)
Lot 49: A. Lange & Söhne, Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst, Ref. 704.048
An extremely rare and sublime platinum tourbillon wristwatch with oversized date display, guarantee, and presentation box, numbered 16 of 20, commemorating the 20th anniversary of the Lange 1, 2014. Estimate: $120,000 – 240,000. Sold for $529,200 (world auction record for the model)
Lot 50: Patek Philippe, Ref. 3939HG-001
Only the fifth example to appear publicly, a factory double sealed white gold minute repeating tourbillon wristwatch with Breguet numerals and Certificate of Origin, 2007. Estimate: $250,000 – 500,000. Sold for $504,000.
Name of the auction: The New York Watch Auction: SIX Date: 11-12 June 2022 Sale Total: $30,332,230 / £24,624,343 / €28,803,594 Lots Sold: 162 Lots Offered: 162 Sold by Lot: 100 Sold by Value: 100%
Important Watches of Exceptional Provenance, Featuring The Kairos Collection Part III, presented across two evening sales on 8-9 June, totaled $21,743,070, setting a new record for the highest total ever for a watches auction at Christie’s New York.
The auction was sold 97% by lot, 141% hammer above value, and attracted global participation from 30 countries and 19% new registrants. 58% of all lots surpassed pre-sale high estimates.
The sale was highlighted by the grand finale of The Kairos Collection, which achieved $13,895,160. The collection of 128 extraordinary modern Patek Philippe timepieces totaled $21,885,101 globally from auctions across Geneva, Hong Kong and New York. The New York session was led by Patek Philippe Ref. 5531R-012, an exceptional 18k rose gold Grande Complication watch, which sold for $2,220,000.
Additionally, the sale presented a variety of important watches of exceptional provenance, most from original owners and families.
Some of the highlights include a rare Rolex “Patent Pending”, “Double Red” Sea Dweller, Ref. 1665, which sold for $176,400, and a Patek Philippe Ref. 2526J, a newly discovered 18k yellow gold wristwatch retailed and signed by Tiffany & Co., which realized $144,900.
The Kairos Collection
Lot 58: Patek Philippe Ref. 5531R-012, with Miniature Cloisonné Enamel Dial Depicting the Lavaux Vineyards on the Shores of Lake Geneva. This 18k Rose Gold Grande Complication watch presented at Baselworld 2018 merges two iconic horological mechanisms: Minute Repeater and World Time. Price realized: $2,220,000
Lot 57: Patek Philippe Ref. 5275P-001, 175th Anniversary, Platinum Hour Strike Chiming Wristwatch with Digital Jump Hour Jumping Minutes And Seconds, Created in a Limited Edition of 175 Examples. Price realized: $907,200
Lot 64: Patek Philippe Ref. 5950 ⁄ 1A-010, Steel Cushion-Shaped Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph on Bracelet, Limited Series of 10. Price realized: $693,000
Lot 4: Patek Philippe Ref. 5650G-001, aquanaut, advanced research, a rare 18k white gold wristwatch with dual timezones. Price realized: $630,000
Lot 65: Patek Philippe Ref. 5004R-018, 18K Rose Gold Perpetual Calendar Split Second Chronograph with Black Dial. Price realized: $567,000
Lot 63: Patek Philippe Ref. 5740⁄1G-001, Nautilus 18K White Gold Perpetual Calendar with Leap Year Indicator, Moon Phases, and Nautilus Cufflinks, Retailed & Signed by Tiffany & Co. Price realized: $516,600
Lot 39: Patek Philippe Ref. 5711⁄1P-001, Nautilus 40th Anniversary, Limited Series Platinum Wristwatch with Date & Diamond Hour Markers. Price realized: $478,800
Lot 28: Patek Philippe Ref. 5711⁄1A-014, Nautilus “Green Dial” Steel with Date. Price realized: $441,000
Lot 61: Patek Philippe Ref. 5372P-010, Platinum Split Seconds Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases. Price realized: $390,600
Lot 66: Patek Philippe Ref. 5004P-039, Platinum Split Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases. Price realized: $352,800
Lot 22: Patek Philippe Ref. 5968G-010, Aquanaut 18K White Gold Fly-Back Chronograph With Date, Retailed & Signed by Tiffany & Co. Price realized: $333,900
Lot 50: Patek Philippe Ref. 5968A-001, Aquanaut Steel Fly-Back Chronograph with Date, Retailed & Signed by Tiffany & Co. Price realized: $333,900
Lot 5: Patek Philippe Ref. 5270P-001, Platinum Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases, Leap Year & Day/Night Indicator. Price realized: $277,200
Lot 9: Patek Philippe Ref. 5970J-001, 18K Yellow Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Leap Year Indicator and Moon Phases. Price realized: $264,600
Lot 56: Patek Philippe, Ref. 5980⁄1R-001 Nautilus 18k Rose Gold Fly-Back Chronograph with Date. Price realized: $264,600
Lot 14: Patek Philippe Ref. 5726⁄1A-014, Nautilus Steel Annual Calendar with Moon Phases, Retailed & Signed by Tiffany & Co. Price realized: $226,800
Lot 19: Patek Philippe Ref. 5711⁄1R-001, Nautilus 18K Rose Gold Version with Date. Price realized: $201,600
Lot 25: Patek Philippe Ref. 5204R-001, 18K Rose Gold Split Second Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases and Leap Year Indicator, Retailed by Tiffany & Co. Price realized: $201,600
Lot 17: Patek Philippe Ref. 5131⁄1P-001, World Time with Cloisonné Enamel Dial, Platinum case and Bracelet. Price realized: $189,000
Lot 20: Patek Philippe Ref. 5160⁄500G-001, Hand Engraved 18k White Gold Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch with Retrograde Date Display, Leap Year Indicator, and Officer’s Caseback. Price realized: $189,000
Lot 29: Patek Philippe Ref. 5070P-001, Platinum Chronograph with Blue Dial. Price realized: $189,000
Lot 40: Patek Philippe Ref. 5168G-001, Aquanaut 18k White Gold Version with Date, Retailed & Signed by Tiffany & Co. Price realized: $189,000
Lot 68: Patek Philippe Ref. 3970EJ, 2nd Series 18K Yellow Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Leap Year Indicator and Moon Phases. Price realized: $176,400
Lot 47: Patek Philippe Ref. 5550P-001, Platinum Advanced Research, Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch with Leap Year Indicator and Moon Phases. Price realized: $157,500
Lot 52: Patek Philippe Ref. 5170G-015, 18k White Gold Chronograph with Special Order Blue Breguet Dial. Price realized: $157,500
Lot 7: Patek Philippe Ref. 5170P-001, Platinum Chronograph with Diamond Indices, Retailed & Signed by Tiffany & Co. Price realized: $151,200
Lot 12: Patek Philippe Ref. 5990⁄1A-001, Nautilus Steel Dual Time Fly-Back Chronograph. Price realized: $151,200
Lot 59: Patek Philippe Ref. 5711⁄1A-010, Nautilus Steel Blue Dial Wristwatch with Date. Price realized: $151,200
Lot 111: Patek Philippe Ref. 3448G, “Red Dot” 18k White Gold Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch with Leap Year Indicator, One of Two Known. Price realized: $1,008,000
Lot 94: Rolex, Ref. 6263, Cosmograph Daytona, “Oyster Sotto”, Paul Newman Dial. Price realized: $693,000
Lot 96: F.P. Journe Chronometre A Resonance, 38mm Platinum Dual Time Wristwatch with Power Reserve and Dual Escapement Brass Movement. Price realized: $403,200
Lot 95: Rolex Ref. 6263, Daytona 14K Yellow Gold Chronograph, Retailed and Signed by Tiffany & Co. Price realized: $340,200
Lot 137: Audemars Piguet Ref. 25636PT, Royal Oak Skeletonized Platinum Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases. Price realized: $327,600
Lot 135: Patek Philippe Ref. 3700⁄11J, Nautilus “JUMBO” with 18K Yellow Gold Case and Bracelet. Price realized: $252,000
Lot 97: F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier 38mm Platinum Annual Calendar with Automatic Brass Movement and Retrograde Date. Price realized: $214,200
Lot 101: Rolex Ref. 6241, Daytona Steel Chronograph with “Paul Newman” Dial. Price realized: $214,200
Lot 81: Rolex Ref. 6262, “PAUL NEWMAN” Dial, Daytona Steel Chronograph with Bracelet. Price realized: $201,600
Lot 116: Rolex Ref. 6262, Daytona “PAUL NEWMAN” Dial, Steel Chronograph with Bracelet. Price realized: $201,600
Lot 113: Patek Philippe Ref. 1463R, “TASTI TONDI”, 18K Rose Gold Chronograph with Two-Tone Silvered Dial, Retailed by Serpico Y Laino. Price realized: $189,000
Lot 125: F.P. Journe Chronometre Optimum, 18K Rose Gold Chronometer with Constant Force Remontoir and Dead-Beat Seconds. Price realized: 189,000
Lot 93: Rolex Ref. 1665, “patent pending”, “Double Red” Sea Dweller, a very fine and rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with date. Price realized: $176,400
Lot 129: Breguet Ref. 3857, 250th Anniversary, 18K Yellow Gold Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Wristwatch with Jump Hours, Retrograde Date, and Leap Year Indicator. Price realized: $163,800
Lot 131: Rolex Ref. 116506, Cosmograph Daytona Platinum Chronograph with Brown Ceramic Bezel and Glacier Dial. Price realized: $163,800
Lot 126: F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier 18K Pink Gold Triple Calendar with Subsidiary Seconds. Price realized: $151,200
Lot 112: Patek Philippe Ref. 2526J, 18K Yellow Gold 1st Series Enamel Dial Wristwatch Retailed and Signed by Tiffany & Co. Price realized: $144,900
Phillips has unveiled the full catalogue for The New York Watch Auction: SIX, the company’s first-ever spring watch auction in New York.
Featuring over 160 lots, in addition to the George Daniels Anniversary previously announced, the sale will also be led by a fresh-to-market Rolex Paul Newman Daytona Lemon ref. 6264 “El Limoncito,” estimated at $600,000-1.2 million.
The New York Watch Auction: : SIX will also offer several other important and historically significant time pieces from Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, F.P.Journe, Richard Mille, Cartier, De Bethune, Roger Smith, Omega, Heuer, and Zenith, among others.
The auction will take place over the course of two sessions on 11-12 June, with lots 1-82 offered on Saturday, the 11th, and lots 83-163 offered on Sunday, the 12th.
Leading the selection of Rolex watches is “El Limoncito,” an exceptionally well-preserved Rolex Paul Newman Daytona Lemon ref. 6264, which has remained in the same family collection for over half a century, and features the rarest exotic dial for the model.
A superb selection of top-quality vintage and modern Patek Philippe watches will be offered, led by the legendary ref. 5016 minute repeater with perpetual calendar and tourbillon in 18 karat rose gold, and an incredibly well-preserved vintage reference 3450 perpetual calendar with factory sapphire exhibition caseback complete with box and original certificate.
An extraordinary selection of vintage and modern Nautilus models, including an 18 karat “Jumbo” ref. 3700/1 retailed by Gubelin – one of only three ever offered publicly, a ref. 5976/1G 40th Anniversary from 2016, and a now-discontinued ref. 5711/1A-014 Nautilus with green dial will also be offered.
The auction will also feature an outstanding selection of models from Independent and other top collectors’ brands. F.P.Journe highlights include a very early Tourbillon Souverain with serial number 035/99T, an extremely rare 40mm Tourbillon Souverain model with jade dial, and a unique Harry Winston Opus 1 Chronomètre à Résonance – a collaboration between Harry Winston and F.P.Journe from 2001.
Other noteworthy highlights include an A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerksunst – 1 of only 20 examples made, and a Roger Smith Series 2 Open Dial in platinum. The sale will also offer a selection of timepieces with special serial numbers including a De Bethune Titan Hawk V2 with serial number 000, and a Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30o Technique Blue with serial number 1.
Finally, this sale will present Chapter II of a special collection of watches known as “Ride the Wave” – nearly 20 extremely well-preserved vintage and modern watches from a renowned American surgeon, surfer, and collector.
As announced earlier this season, the sale will also include watches from the personal collection of Academy Award-Nominee James Garner, The No. 00 George Daniels Anniversary Watch, and the Unique Chronomètre Souverain Gifted to George Daniels by F.P. Journe.
Lot 111: ROLEX, Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman “El Limoncito”, ref. 6264
This fresh-to-the-market, stunning 18K yellow gold reference 6264 with Paul Newman dial, is nicknamed “El Limoncito.”
With its grèné yellow dial, black subdials, and white graphics, the Lemon is perhaps the most striking and unusual configuration of Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman and is seldom seen publicly.
A Spanish-language play on the Italian nickname for the Lemon, the so-called “Limoncino,” “El Limoncito” is a nod to the Mexican origins of the family who owned this watch since its production in 1969.
Additionally, the clasp of the Rolex bracelet is stamped “Hecho in Mexico,” indicating it was fabricated in Mexico under the specifications of Rolex. Estimate: $600,000 – 1,200,000.
Lot 110: ROLEX, Cosmograph Daytona “Rainbow”
This stunning example of the Rainbow Daytona is virtually impossible to acquire at retail, even for longstanding customers of Rolex. The present lot has remained virtually unworn since its initial purchase in 2018 and retains all of its original accessories.
The reference 116595RBOW is a captivating reminder of the joie de vivre that wearing a watch can inspire, as well as the creative, technical, and aesthetic excellence of the Rolex brand. With 36 rainbow-hued sapphires, 56 diamonds adorning the lugs and crown guards, and rainbow sapphires indicating the hours, every single gemstone used is internally flawless.
Each sapphire is perfectly cut to fit without prongs into the bezel, and selected with the right color for transitioning to the stones on adjacent sides, so that rather than seeming like 36 individual stones, they blend into one another.
Due to the difficulty in sourcing these stones, subjecting them to Rolex’s high standards, and then fitting them into the watch, production numbers remain extremely low and across all metals, very few have surfaced at auction. Estimate: $200,000 – 400,000.
Lot 19: PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5016R-010
This outstanding Patek Philippe 5016R comes with two stunning dials. Fitted with an anthracite gray dial with applied Breguet numerals and accompanied by an extra, extremely rare semi-gloss black dial with diamond hour markers within pink gold settings.
Both dials bear the same movement number as on the original certificate – confirming their originality to the watch. Produced in yellow, white, and rose gold, as well as platinum (and a unique piece for charity in stainless steel) reference 5016. It is believed that approximately 200 examples were manufactured until production ended in 2011.
Further accompanied with its original Certificate of Origin, chronometer certificate, presentation box, additional caseback, the presence of an additional dial made especially for this watch elevates the importance of an already outstanding and singular timepiece. Estimate: $300,000 – 600,000.
Lot 90: PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 3450 Sapphire Caseback
Another stunning lot to join Phillips’ June sale is the Patek Philippe reference 3450. Launched in 1981, reference 3450 was the successor to the reference 3448 – Patek’s very first automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch.
While aesthetically similar to reference 3448, it most notably features a leap year indication on the dial. Setting this specific ref. 3450 apart from its kin, it is one of only 6 total examples known to be fitted with a sapphire caseback – a special request from the original owner and confirmed by a letter from Patek Philippe.
Since appearing at auction in 2004 when it was consigned by the original owner, it has remained ensconced in one of the greatest American collections of vintage Patek Philippe wristwatches.
Fully corroborated and in a breathtaking state of preservation, the flawless dial is housed within a case in near-perfect condition, having never been previously polished.
Complete with its original Certificate of Origin, original box, and correspondence from Patek Philippe confirming the originality of the sapphire case back, it is one of the finest examples of a reference 3450 to crown a collection of the world’s best timepieces. Estimate: $250,000 – 500,000.
Lot 88: PATEK PHILIPPE, Nautilus “Jumbo” Ref. 3700/1 retailed by Gübelin
The present watch is only the third ever Gübelin-signed Nautilus 3700/1 in yellow gold to appear at auction, with this particular one having never been offered publicly. It is a stunning example, preserved in all original condition, with its dial flawless and original to the watch.
The original, Gay Frères-signed flat Nautilus clasp is correct, and the bracelet remains absolutely rigid and tight throughout. The “Jumbo” nickname referred to the 42mm case diameter, which was considered oversized for the era. While the Nautilus was initially not well received, its popularity quickly grew, and soon became a mainstay of Patek Philippe’s collection with subsequent models including chronographs and perpetual calendars.
The original reference 3700/1 was in production from its introduction in 1976 until 1981 and featured a straight bracelet, versus the tapered bracelet of the successor reference 3700/11. Estimate: $120,000 – 240,000.
Lot 163: PATEK PHILIPPE, Nautilus, Ref. 5711/1A-014
In 2021, Patek Philippe announced the imminent discontinuation of the reference 5711/1A in its entirety and introduced a special “olive green” dial to only be produced for one year to mark its departure.
Alongside a baguette diamond-set bezel variant, these two final 5711s (apart from the limited run of 170 “Tiffany Blue” double signed pieces) would mark the end of the production of the reference that has been a mainstay of the Patek Philippe collection since its introduction in 2006.
Given that no more of these 5711/1A-014 pieces will be produced and are now fully discontinued, the present example is one of the extremely few opportunities to acquire this intensely limited run of one of the most iconic sports watch references of all time. Estimate: $80,000 – 160,000.
Lot 116: F.P. JOURNE, Tourbillon Souverain No. 035/99T
The Tourbillon Souverain offered in the June sale is a first-generation model in platinum with a superb white gold dial, eloquently embodying F.P. Journe’s inimitable style both in terms of aesthetics and technical mastery.
Made from 2000 to 2005, these first-generation Resonance models, like the present lot, feature rhodium-plated brass movements and a 38mm case. This watch is an extremely early and rare example of Journe’s Tourbillon with remontoir d’egalité and is numbered 035, dating from 1999, and is classified as a second-generation version of the Tourbillon due to its similarity to the Souscription series dials.
Completely original, the dial’s printed text appears as though it is floating over the dial surface – a trait that is prominently featured in this example, where it can almost seem as though one is seeing double. Furthermore, it exhibits the remarkable reflectivity, sheen, and luster found in Journe’s’ earliest dials that is today so coveted by collectors. The case back engraving style is Journe’s earliest-extremely shallow and also extremely sought after.
The present lot offers the rare opportunity of obtaining a fresh-to-market, historically significant wristwatch integral to understanding the evolution of one of the most influential contemporary watchmakers. Estimate: $300,000 – 600,000.
Lot 10: F.P.JOURNE, Tourbillon Souverain Jade Dial
François-Paul Journe introduced the Tourbillon Nouveau (reference “TN”) in 2003 to replace the previous Tourbillon (reference “T”), which had been in production since 1999. The Tourbillon Nouveau can be seen as a wholesale upheaval of the previous tourbillon movement. The brass movement was discontinued and replaced by a movement made entirely of 18 karat pink gold — a first for the watch industry.
François-Paul also incorporated a deadbeat seconds mechanism, further adding to the watch’s technical superiority, as it allows for the seconds hand completely stop as the escapement continues to beat, not moving until one second has elapsed.
This watch comes with an amazing Jade dial, created by the in-house dial makers of F.P. Journe, Les Cadraniers de Genève, with great skill and at great expense. Jade is rarely used in timepieces as at a certain thickness, jade will crack, and it requires extreme care, skill, and artisanship to place in a watch dial.
Extremely rare, it was delivered in 2015 to the present owner, who is offering it for sale for the very first time – fully complete with original certificate, purchase invoices, product literature, extra strap, and presentation box. Estimate: $200,000 – 400,000.
Lot 82: RICHARD MILLE Felipe Massa Black Night Ref. RM011-FM
Since launching his first model in 2001, Richard Mille has pushed the limits of horology making some of the most technical watches of the 21st century. The RM011 was first introduced in 2007 and was the firm’s first chronograph model with annual calendar featuring an oversized digital date display on a skeletonized dial.
Since its initial launch, the reference has developed a cult following and an iconic status as one of the brands most important and sought-after models. Traditionally encased in titanium, the present limited-edition model from 2015 continued the relationship between Mille and racecar driver, Felipe Massa, and is made with a carbon NTPT (North Thin Ply Technology) case – a lightweight material capable of withstanding the extreme forces of Formula 1 racing.
This extremely fascinating Richard Mille flyback wristwatch was produced in a limited number of 100 examples. Estimate: $200,000 – 400,000.
Lot 11: ROGER SMITH, Series 2 Open Dial
With just four platinum examples of Roger Smith’s open-worked Series 2 ever manufactured out of a total of 12 across all metals, the Series 2 offered here presents a unique opportunity to acquire one of the rarest and most exceptional independently-made timepieces of the 21st century.
Directly from the bench of Roger Smith to the original owner, and then to Phillips New York, the present Series 2 cased in a 40mm platinum case was executed with a sublime open-worked dial at the request of the owner.
The movement is where English watchmaking takes center stage as far as the combination of mechanical performance and aesthetic skill. It is none other than Roger Smith’s improved Daniels’ co-axial escapement providing the regulation, as Roger takes on the mantle of British horology and the legacy of his mentor, with a single-wheel co-axial escapement.
The Series 2 Open Dial was discontinued and reintroduced as a separate reference, the Series 5. Estimate: $150,000 – 300,000.
Lot 49: A. LANGE & SÖHNE, Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst
Also featured in the sale is a spectacular A. Lange & Söhne that bears the rarified title of Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerskunst, It is an exceptional example of Teutonic watchmaking mastery hardly ever seen on the secondary market.
The Lange Handswerksunst watches, literally meaning “craftsmanship” in German, typically display a level of adornment and workmanship unseen in their regular production counterparts.
Handwerkskunst pieces are all assembled by one single master watchmaker, and the assembly time is increased compared to normal Lange timepieces. This particular Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerskunst features a deep black, hand-fired enamel dial made in-house by the artisans at A. Lange & Söhne with an exposed tourbillon and spectacular balance cock finished with black polishing.
Released in 2014 to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the Lange 1, the present example is replete with its original accessories and numbered 16 of 20, consigned by the original owner in crisp overall condition. Estimate: $120,000 – 240,000.
Lot 125: AUDEMARS PIGUET, Offshore “End of Days” Prototype, Ref. 25770SN
This historically important Audemars Piguet prototype chronograph wristwatch was worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in the thriller “End of Days” (1999). Schwarzenegger reportedly told Audemars Piguet “I want the watch to have a black case and yellow numerals and hands”.
The result was the current prototype No. 248, as well as a second timepiece No. 249, both of which are noted in the AP archives as “Destination Schwarzenegger 25 September 1998”. The Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore are iconic timepieces recognized for their modern design and their enduring legacy in the horological world, recently celebrated by Phillips’ Royal Oak 50th Sale in Geneva. Estimate: $25,000 – 50,000.
Lot 107: PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 130 from Ride the Wave Chapter II
The Patek Philippe, Ref. 130 is a timepiece that can certainly be considered one of the finest representatives of this classic and important reference known.
With its stunning two-tone silvered dial with all of its raised, hard enamel perfectly intact, it first appeared at auction in 2005 when it was consigned by the original owner’s family as a graduation gift. Purchased by the consignor at that time, it has been kept as a treasured watch in the Ride the Wave collection and remains in outstanding overall condition complete with its original Certificate of Origin and presentation box.
Crisp lugs and bezel edges, perfectly preserved satin finishing on all surfaces, and a beautifully aged original dial all indicate the watch was hardly ever worn throughout its lifetime. So remarkable is this example, it is prominently featured in John Goldberger’s book, “Stainless Steel Patek Philippe Watches”. Estimate: $100,000 – 200,000
Lot 109: ROLEX, “Datocompax” “Killy” Ref. 5036 from Ride the Wave Chapter II
Produced in very small numbers in steel, yellow, and pink gold between 1948 and 1951, reference 5036 is one of the rare triple calendar chronograph wristwatches, dubbed “Datocompax” manufactured by Rolex beginning in the late 1940s, and now known as the “Killy”.
The reference 5036 is the rarest and most sought-after by collectors – and in 18 karat pink gold, it’s the rarest of all metals. Interestingly, it bears an applied Roman numeral twelve, which is not present in the later references.
Preserved in the “Ride the Wave” collection since its acquisition at auction in 2013, this reference 5036 is further testament to the collector’s attention to quality and excellence. The lovely two-tone “no-lume” dial has aged to a contrasting warm ivory color, and the case still bears the oft-lost case numbers engraved on the edge of the caseback.
Furnished with a period-correct Rolex strap and buckle, it is one of the rarest and highest quality “Datocompax” “Killy” examples ever made available to the public. Estimate: $120,000 – 240,000
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo achieves HK$264 million/ US$33.6 million during The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV.
Held over two days on 27 and 28 May at the JW Marriott Hotel, the 100% sold sale far exceeded its pre-sale estimate of HK$105,256,000 to HK$192,004,000, marking the highest ever total for a various owner watches sale in Asia and the highest ever total for the category at Phillips Asia.
Patek Philippe once again demonstrated its supremacy with an impressive selection of collectible models, led by a possibly unique Ref. 3974 in a yellow gold case made by the legendary casemaker Jaen-Pierre Hagmann and features the black lacquer dial embellished with the Calatrava Cross logo. This lot was for HK$19.6 million/ US$2.5 million, more than three times its pre-sale high estimate and achieved the new world record for the reference.
Following the world record set for Nautilus when the very first Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711 with Tiffany Blue® dial sold at Phillips New York last December, the Nautilus Ref. 5723 with the prestigious double stamp by Tiffany & Co. and ruby-set bezel and indexes sold for HK$11.4 million/ US$1.45 million, setting the second highest price ever paid for any Nautilus and the world record for a Nautilus in gold.
Important creations by independent watchmakers performed extremely well, with numerous timepieces flying well above their high estimates. The F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain “China 2010” limited edition, one out of the five examples created to commemorate the opening of F.P. Journe Boutique in Beijing in 2010, sold for HK$8.7 million/ US$1.1 million, setting a world auction record for F.P.Journe Tourbillon featuring a 40mm diameter case.
Other notable results include a unique stainless steel prototype with an innovative movement almost entirely made out of titanium created by Lang & Heyne, made in collaboration with Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo and The Lavish Attic, ranking as the highest auction price ever achieved for a wristwatch by Lang & Heyne.
A unique Vingt-8 Hisui watch by Kari Voutilainen was sold for over HK$4.4 million/ US$561,834, the highest price achieved for a Voutilainen timepiece without Complications.
Top Ten Lots of the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV
Lot 886: Patek Philippe Ref. 3974, yellow gold minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, leap year indication, glossy black lacquered dial, applied Breguet numerals, Calatrava cross logo. Circa 1990
Estimate: HK $3,200,000 – 6,500,000/ US$410,000 – 833,000
Price Achieved: HK$19,610,000/ US$2,498,314 (world record for the reference)
Lot 956: Patek Philippe Ref. 5723/112R-001, Pink gold wristwatch with baguette-cut ruby-set bezel and indexes, chocolate brown dial, retailed by Tiffany & Co.
Estimate: HK $2,350,000 – 3,900,000/ US$301,000 – 500,000
Price Achieved: HK$11,442,500/ US$1,457,775 (world record for a Nautilus in gold)
Lot 963C: F.P. Journe, Tourbillon Souverain “China 2010”, platinum wristwatch with tourbillon regulator, one of a limited edition of 5 pieces made to commemorate the opening of F.P. Journe Boutique in Beijing.
Estimate: HK $3,900,000 – 7,800,000/ US$500,000 – 1,000,000
Price Achieved: HK$8,720,000/ US$1,110,928 (world record for F.P.Journe Tourbillon featuring a 40mm diameter case)
Lot 1009: Voutilainen, a unique and superbly decorated platinum wristwatch with tear drop lugs, Japanese lacquering, cabochon emerald. Circa 2017
After the stunning performance of the 30 watches from the Kairos Collection Part I already sold in Geneva and with Part II to come in Hong Kong on 29 May, Christie’s New York prepares for a milestone in watch sale history, including the grand finale of The Kairos Collection in New York presenting 68 extraordinary watches.
Important Watches of Exceptional Provenance, presented across two evening sessions on June 8 and 9, will be offering a total of 137 lots, among which are some of the finest horological masterpieces to appear at auction. Estimated in excess of US$14 million, this sale marks a historic high for Christie’s New York.
The first evening, on 8 June, will present Lots 1-68 of The Kairos Collection Part III – the finest collection of Patek Philippe contemporary timepieces to be offered.
Following Part I in Geneva and Part II in Hong Kong, the grand finale in New York offers marvels of Grandes Complications such as the Ref. 5531R-012, an exceptional 18k rose gold minute repeating world time wristwatch with miniature cloisonné enamel dial, the Ref. 5950/1A-010 (one of just 10 ever made), steel cushion-shaped split seconds single button chronograph wristwatch with blue dial and bracelet, and the Ref. 5740/1G-001, a very rare and quite striking perpetual calendar wristwatch with leap year indicator, moon phases and bracelet, and the first example ever to be offered publicly with a dual signature by Tiffany & Co.
The second evening, on 9 June, will present Lots 69-137, with a focus on vintage and modern icons with exceptional provenance.
Among the watches consigned by their original owner or original family, and sourced exclusively in the Americas, are: extraordinarily rare and important Patek Philippe 18k white gold 3448G “Red Dot”; a newly discovered Rolex steel Daytona Ref. 6263, MK 1 “Paul Newman Oyster Sotto”; as well as the early and eminently desirable F. P. Journe platinum Chronomètre à Résonance with brass movement.
Other highlights include historically significant examples such as the The Great Escape 3525 Rolex, the personal watch of RAF Lt. Gerald Imeson wore as a POW and that was instrumental in planning and executing “The Great Escape” on March 24th, 1944.
From 3 to 8 June, these masterpieces will be on display at Christie’s New York, 20 Rockefeller Center. The exhibition, open to the public, tells the stories behind these great legends of watchmaking history.
Lot 58 – From The Kairos Collection Part III, the Patek Philippe Ref. 5531R-012, with miniature cloisonné enamel dial depicting the Lavaux vineyards on the shores of Lake Geneva.
This 18k rose gold Grande Complication watch presented at Baselworld 2018 merges two iconic horological mechanisms: Minute Repeater and World Time.
As the first minute repeater that always strikes local time, the Reference 5531 World Time Minute Repeater innovates by uniting two of Patek Philippe’s most emblematic complications.
The rose gold case is adorned with a hand-guilloché hobnail pattern and a dial centre in cloisonné enamel depicting the Lavaux vineyards on the shores of Lake Geneva, revealing the quintessence of Métiers d’Art tradition and craftsmanship.
Lot 111 – Patek Philippe 18k white gold 3448G “Red Dot”.
This 1981 reference in 18K white gold is one of only two known of the 3448 with the leap year indicator. An automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch, unique not only because it is the only one of its linage to have a leap year indicator materialized by a small red dot at 3:30, but also by its combination of features and complications : 37.5 mm calibre Cal. 27-460 Q automatic, Geneva hallmark, moon phases, day and date display, perpetual calendar with leap year indicator, 37 jewels, Gyromax balance, 18K gold wheel, matte silver dial, applied gold batons for squared figures, auxiliary edges indicating the date and moon phases.
Sold in 1981 to a collector, this Ref. 3448 remained the property of the original purchaser’s family and is an aficionado’s dream come true.
Lot 94 – An extremely rare Ref. 6263 stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black “Paul Newman Mark 1 Oyster Sotto Daytona” dial
Newly discovered and coming fresh to the market being sourced from the original family, the “Oyster Sotto” or “Oyster Below” dial is also commonly known as the “RCO” as it features the words “Rolex”, “Cosmograph”, and then “Oyster” aligned vertically on the dial.
The Paul Newman Oyster Sotto Daytona is one of the true ‘holy grail’ pieces. Amongst the extremely small number of such watches produced, those with a Mark 1 dial are undeniably the rarest of the rare, near-unattainable trophies of the Rolex world.
Less than 20 examples in total with the Oyster “Sotto” designation (below the word “Cosmograph” instead of above it) are known. The Oyster “Sotto” dials were only fitted to a very small number of the first reference 6263 water-resistant Oyster Cosmographs.
The Paul Newman dial itself was discontinued soon after the reference 6263 was introduced: only low serial number watches were fitted with this style of dial, presumably at the request of clients or certain retailers.
Furthermore, some of these very special pieces have dials with a distinctly different font type that can be classed as a “Mark 1” dial, only appearing on those watches with the very lowest serial numbers. Of all the Paul Newman Oyster Sotto watches publicly known, only a few examples including the present watch sport the Mark 1 dial. From circa 1969.
Lot 120 – The Great Escape 3525 Rolex
A historically important Rolex watch worn by RAF Flight Lieutenant Gerald Imeson as a prisoner of war in Stalag Luft III, the present watch was instrumental in the planning and execution of “The Great Escape,” made on March 24, 1944.
During captivity, airmen could take advantage of an offer by Hans Wilsdorf, the owner of Rolex, allowing British officers to purchase watches on credit which could be paid when the war was won.
An estimated 3,000+ British officers, including F/Lt. Imeson, sent postcards to Wilsdorf explaining their circumstances and whereabouts, indicating which Rolex they would like. On August 4, 1943, F/Lt. Imeson’s Rolex 3525 was delivered to Stalag Luft III.
The watch on offer today is accompanied by a number of images of F/Lt. Imeson, as well as some images of extracts from his diary during his time as a “POW” at Stalug Luft III, including references to the arrival of his 3525 at camp as well as an entry on 24-25/3 indicating the “Big Event”, aka “the Great Escape”.
The Kairos Collection Part III: On 8th June
Curated by a private collector with a discerning eye for excellence and the ability to acquire the rarest watches, The Kairos Collection is the finest grouping of Patek Philippe contemporary timepieces ever to appear at auction. It is the fruit of years of dedicated focus and a passion for the most prestigious of provenances, with every single timepiece in pristine condition.
On 8 June, Christie’s New York Important Watches of Exceptional Provenance will be featuring 68 watches from The Kairos Collection Part III, among which the following fabled references:
Lot 64 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5950/1A-010
From a limited series of just 10 examples, this steel cushion-shaped split seconds single button chronograph wristwatch features a blue dial and bracelet.
Launched in 2010, reference 5950 immediately soared to the top of the wish lists of collectors everywhere. Powered by the calibre CHR 27-575 PS, which was first introduced in 2005 with the officer-style split seconds chronograph reference 5959, not only is this movement the first example of chronographic calibre completely realised in-house by Patek Philippe, it is also the thinnest manually wound column-wheel split seconds single button chronograph movement ever designed by any manufacturer.
This movement, which can be considered a compendium of the best and most innovative horological technology available at the moment of its inception, is interestingly housed in an art deco-style case inspired by the very first split seconds chronograph wristwatches of the 1920s.
The cushion-shaped case, the typical dial layout with outer railway fifth of a second divisions and the two horizontal subsidiary dials, the Breguet numerals, the engraved motif at the corners of the dial (reprised on the movement as well, an example of Patek Philippe’s incredible attention to detail), every little detail of the timepiece is devised with the intention of sending the wearer on a voyage back to the 1920s and 30s.
Lot 63 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5740/1G-001 Nautilus
The present Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5740/1G is the first example to come to market with a dual signature by Tiffany & Co.
The alliance between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. began in 1851 under the guidance of the companies’ owners, Charles Louis Tiffany and Antoine Norbert de Patek. In 1854, Tiffany & Co. began introducing Patek Philippe watches to the American market, including some of the rarest models. The relationship flourished, Tiffany being the only name Patek Philippe allowed on the dials of its watches for exceptional occasions.
The present timepiece is a prime example of the longstanding heritage between Patek Philippe and Tiffany – the present ref. 5740/1G is a modern culmination of design and heritage. Between the Gerald Genta case design, the Tiffany Signature, and Patek Philippe’s ultra thin calibre 240Q, the Ref. 5740/1G is representative of the horological progress made by each respective house and creator.
The Patek Philippe Reference 5740/1G is the first of the Nautilus family to be included in the Grande Complication family of Patek Philippe. The present timepiece presents a marriage between the iconic case designed by Mr. Genta, and the haute horological craftsmanship that has become synonymous with Patek Philippe watchmaking.
Lot 28 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1A-014 Nautilus with “Green Dial”, in steel
The Nautilus 5711/1A-014 was unveiled at Watches & Wonders in April 2021 with a dial in a never-before-seen shade of olive green that is new to the Nautilus collection. The model was released as a replacement for the blue-dial reference 5711⁄1A-010 made to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus in 2006 and discontinued earlier this year.
An homage to the original “Jumbo” reference 3700/1A, the 5711/1A draws striking similarities in design to the original models while also offering a modern update with a new case size which is 1mm larger than its predecessor, and made in three-parts rather than the two-part cases of the original Nautilus.
The introduction of the new sunburst olive-green dial for the new Nautilus was an unexpected yet ingenious move by Patek Philippe and it is thought that the model will only be produced for one year. Naturally, demand will continue to greatly exceed supply for the remaining production time.
The present watch, offered in immaculate condition, affords those discriminating collectors who insist upon only the most exclusive timepieces the thrilling prospect of obtaining, without delay, an unobtainable Patek Philippe steel Nautilus that is destined to become ever more desirable.
Lot 61 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5372P-010
A very attractive platinum split seconds chronograph perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phase. Introduced in 2017, the Patek Philippe Ref. 5372P-010 is a fine take on the modern split seconds chronograph. The Ref. 5372P-010 is a mono-pusher split seconds chronograph. An incredibly complicated layout to start with, properly calibrating the chronograph to a single pusher system in an engineering prowess.
The Ref. 5372P-010, is featured in two different dials, blue and rose gold. Although publications have referred to the dial as “Salmon”, Patek Philippe lists the dial colour as “Rose Gold”.
Patek Philippe timepieces that feature the ever so pleasing “Salmon” dials are among the most desirable and collectible the firm has ever created in both its modern and vintage eras. The present lot is the chance to own a “Salmon”-hued grande complication made only until early 2022.
Lot 22 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5968G-010 Aquanaut
A fine 18k white gold Fly-Back chronograph wristwatch with date, retailed & signed by Tiffany & Co. The Aquanaut followed in the wake of the Nautilus’s 30th anniversary in 1996 which launched the celebrated and now-discontinued Ref. 5711 and the Ref. 5712.
The first Aquanaut reference 5060, launched in 1997, borrowed many of its design cues from big brother Nautilus – most notably the rounded octagonal bezel.
More highlights from The Kairos Collection Part III…
Patek Philippe Ref. 5275P-001 – 175th Anniversary Edition, Lot 57, Platinum Hour Strike Chiming Wristwatch with Digital Jump Hour Jumping Minutes and Seconds, Created In a Limited Edition of 175 Examples, 40mm x 47mm Case In Platinum, Silver Guilloche Dial, Caliber 32-650 HGS PS Manual-Winding Movement. Estimate: USD 300,000 – USD 600,000.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1 P-001, Lot 39, Nautilus 40th Anniversary Limited Series Platinum Wristwatch with Date & Diamond Hour Markers, 40mm case and Blue dial. Estimate: USD 350,000 – USD 550,000.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5004R-018, Lot 65, 18k Rose Gold Perpetual Calendar Split Second Chronograph Wristwatch with 37mm Case, Manual-winding Movement and Black Dial. Estimate: USD 200,000 – USD 400,000.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5004P-039, Lot 66, Split Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch with Moon Phases, 37mm Platinum Case, Manual-winding Movement and Black Dial. Estimate: USD 180,000 – USD 280,000.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5650G-001, Lot 4, Aquanaut Advanced Research Dual Timezone Watch with Day Night Indicator and Date, 18K White Gold, 40mm Case, Automatic Movement and Semi-skeleton Blue Dial. Estimate: USD 150,000 – USD 250,000.
Treasures of Exceptional Provenance: On 9th June
Lots 69-137 of Important Watches of Exceptional Provenance will focus on vintage and modern icons, including the extraordinarily rare and important watches described below. Other highlights include historically significant military examples such as The Great Escape 3525 Rolex highlighted earlier.
Rolex Daytonas with Paul Newman dial
Alongside Ref. 6263 “Paul Newman Mark 1 Oyster Sotto Daytona”, Christie’s New York will also be offering three other fabled and fabulous Rolex Daytonas with a Paul Newman dial.
A true icon in the world of watch collecting, the Rolex Daytona has, from its origination, undergone a multitude of iterations, from dials to cases to movements – perfectly illustrating Rolex’s incessant drive to innovate and still remain true to its heritage. The rarest and most sought-after watches continue to be of the Paul Newman era, a version of the Daytona made famous by the eponymous actor.
Rolex x Daytona x Tiffany & Co.
F.P. Journe Watches
Lot 96 – F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance. A very important 38mm platinum dual time wristwatch with power reserve and dual escapement brass movement.
The present watch is an important early version with rhodium-plated brass movement. Early F. P. Journe timepieces were fitted with brass movements, and these are extremely collectible today.
Journe timepieces maybe synonymous with 18k gold movements now, however the watchmaker only started crafting his movements in gold from 2004. The early production models, between 2001 and 2004, featured brass movements – an estimated number of around 2,000. As a result, Journe wristwatches with brass movements are rare and signify an epoch in the celebrated watchmaker’s sterling career.
The Chronomètre à Résonance model was launched in 2000. It is one of the exceedingly rare and fascinating wristwatches in the world based on resonance, a natural physical phenomenon. The two closely positioned balance wheels synchronize each other by means of the resonance effect and naturally beat alternately. The negative effects of wrist and body movements are hence considerably reduced.
The effects of resonance upon a timekeeper were first noticed by Antide Janvier around 1780, who created clocks with two pendulums beating in resonance, and the idea was taken further by Abraham Louis Breguet who successfully completed pocket watches with twin resonant balances.
The genius of F.P. Journe reinvented the mechanism for the modern world and produced the Chronomètre a Résonance” wristwatch, and the present watch is one of that remarkable series. The two dials can of course be used to show two different time zones, however, many watch collectors have both dials displaying the same time to remain true to the original theory of resonance.
To facilitate precise setting of both movements, the seconds can be zeroed and started simultaneously by pulling out the crown at 4 o’clock on the band.
Lot 97 – F.P. Journe, Octa Calendrier, a very fine 38mm platinum annual calendar wristwatch, with automatic brass movement and retrograde date.
This lot is an important early version with rhodium-plated brass movement. Early F. P. Journe timepieces were fitted with brass movements.
The Octa Calendrier is the third complication to be integrated in the Octa automatic calibre. The integration of an annual retrograde calendar while maintaining the dimensions of the movement was another significant horological achievement for the brand.
The instantaneously advancing day and month display is self-adjusting for months with 28, 30 and 31 days. The Octa annual calendar requires manual adjustment at the end of February only during the non-leap years.
On 24 May, Christie’s Watches held two live auctions, including the white-glove sale of “The Champion Collection Part III: The Artistry of Complications”, and “Important Watches and The Rise of The Independent Watchmakers, Featuring The Kairos Collection Part II”, realising a historic sale total of HK$299,004,780/ US$38,269,921 and 139% hammer above low estimate. The sales saw strong global participation from 20 countries across 4 continents.
21 world auction records for references across both sales including Patek Philippe References: 5002R, 605HU, 5976 ⁄ 1G, 5016P-018, 5275P, and exceptionally rare models of F.P. Journe, A. Lange & Söhne, and Cartier. Top lot of each sale set world auction record for the reference.
The Champion Collection Part III: The Artistry of Complications, Top Achiever: Patek Philippe. A magnificent, extremely rare and highly complicated 18k pink gold double-dial wristwatch with twelve complications including “cathedral” minute repeating, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with retrograde date, moon age and angular motion, sidereal time and sky chart sky moon tourbillon model, Ref. 5002R, circa 2010. Lot 2273. Price realised: HK$24,450,000/ US$3,129,380. World auction record for the reference.
Important Watches and The Rise of The Independent Watchmakers, Featuring The Kairos Collection Part II, Top Achiever: Patek Philippe. A magnificent and extremely rare 18k gold world time pocket watch with world map cloisonné enamel dial, Ref. 605HU, manufactured in 1948. Lot 2443, Price realised: HK$16,050,000/ US$2,054,256. World auction record for the reference.
Sale Highlights of “The Champion Collection Part III: The Artistry of Complications”:
All lots in this sale found buyers, with almost 1/3 of lots sold above high estimates. 12 world auction records for the references were set in the sale, including Patek Philippe Ref. 5002R, 5016P-018, 5275P, 5074J, 5271 ⁄ 11P-001, 5971P, 5020J-016, 5071G, 5059G-018, 5976 ⁄ 1G, 5167 ⁄ 300G-010 and 5167A-010.
Patek Philippe horological treasures sparked fierce competition, with a wide variety of lots sold multiple times above estimates, including:
Limited edition and rare timepieces by other celebrated brands including Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet also achieved outstanding prices:
Sale Highlights of “Important Watches and The Rise of The Independent Watchmakers, Featuring The Kairos Collection Part II”:
42% of lots sold above high estimates, with 9 world auction records for the references established, including Patek Philippe Ref. 605HU, 1415; F.P. Journe NO. 01⁄10-T10, Sonnerie Souveraine Model; A. Lange & Söhne Ref. 405.836, 310.836, 320.836; Cartier – a platinum and diamond-set limited edition Crash Model, and a rare 18K white gold and diamond-set limited edition Crash Model made for the re-opening of the Paris boutique.
In addition to the top lot of this sale, Lot 2443 – Patek Philippe 605 Heures Universelles, other top-performing extraordinary timepieces include:
Demand for F.P. Journe wristwatches continue to soar, highlighted by:
All Patek Philippe contemporary masterpieces from The Kairos Collection Part II found buyers, including the following highlights:
Christie’s Geneva Rare Watches Auction on 9th May this year achieved a total of CHF 23,840,700 / US$ 24,076,357 / HK$ 188,172,624. It attracted very strong global participation with registrants from 46 countries across 6 continents. Surprisingly, 51% of the new registrants were millennials.
16 world records were broken, with Daytonas remaining the ‘Queens’ of the game. A particular note was the success of the Rolex Daytona Trilogy. The top achiever among them was the Rolex Daytona Ref 6269 ‘Jack of Diamonds’, which achieved a whopping 1.614 million Swiss francs.
Cartier also showed a very strong desirability, with iconic models like the Crash reaching 819’000 CHF.
Top 15 Lots
(1) Lot 38: Rolex Daytona Ref 6269 ‘Jack of Diamonds’
Estimate: CHF 1,100,000
Achieved: CHF 1.614 million
(2) Lot 129: Rolex Paul Newman Tropical Lemon Daytona Ref. 6264
Estimate: CHF 900,000
Achieved: CHF 1.254 million
(3) Lot 128: Rolex Daytona ref. 6241 ‘Champagne Paul Newman dial’
Estimate: CHF 700,000
Achieved: CHF 1,071,000
(4) Lot 66: Patek Philippe “Cathedral” Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5074R-001, Retailed by Tiffany & Co. Property from the Kairos Collection
Estimate: CHF 330,000
Achieved: CHF 957,600
(5) Lot 133: Cartier London ‘Crash’ 1990
Estimate: CHF 180,000
Achieved: CHF 819,000
(6) Lot 94: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Advanced Research Ref. 5650G-001
Estimate: CHF 150’000
Achieved: CHF 756,000
(7) Lot 110: Patek Philippe Nautilus Platinum Watch with Baguette Diamond-set Bezel and Dial Ref. 5711
Estimate: CHF 500,000
Achieved: CHF 630,000
(8) Lot 24: Rolex Oyster Cosmograph Ref. 6263 Tropical ‘Paul Newman Panda Dial’
Achieved: CHF 579,600
(9) Lot 65: Patek Philippe Limited Edition 18K Pink Gold Split-Seconds Chronograph with Black Dial, Ref. 5959R-001, Retailed by Tiffany & Co.
Estimate: CHF 140,000 – CHF 230,000
Achieved: CHF 453,600
(10) Lot 151: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin with Platinum Case and Smoked Green Sunburst Dial, Ref. 15202PT
Estimate: CHF 300,000 – CHF 500,000
Achieved: CHF 441,000
(11) Lot 152: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak White Ceramic Perpetual Calendar with Blue dial, Ref. 26579CB
Estimate: CHF 250,000 – CHF 450,000
Achieved: CHF 403,200
(12) Lot 157: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with Stainless Steel Case and Salmon Color Dial, Ref. 25654ST
Estimate: CHF 150,000 – CHF 250,000
Achieved: CHF 340,200
(13) Lot 88: Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases and 24 Hour Indication, Platinum Case and Black Dial, Ref. 5970P-001
Estimate: CHF 140,000 – CHF 230,000
Achieved: CHF 327,600
(14) Lot 149: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Model with 18K White Gold Case and Tropical Diamond set Dial, Ref. 5402BC, Circa 1977
Estimate: CHF 200,000 – CHF 400,000
Achieved: CHF 327,600
(15) Lot 109: Patek Philippe Nautilus, 42mm Stainless Steel Automatic Watch with Date, Moon-Phase and Power Reserve Indications, Ref. 5712/1A-001, Retailed By Tiffany & Co.
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo achieved a total of CHF 22,303,780/ $22,616,032/ €21,538,760 in The Royal Oak 50th Sale on 6 May – a white glove sale that more than tripled its pre-sale low estimate of CHF 6.8 million.
The sale took place on Friday, 6 May, in Geneva, and offered 88 tightly curated lots. The sale precedes The Geneva Watch Auction: XV, which follows on Saturday and Sunday 7-8 May 2022. The majority of lots soared above their high estimates, including several record-breaking watches.
Collectors from across 54 countries joined the auction, and online participation continued to increase exponentially, with more than 1000 online registered bidders. This resulted in half of the lots presented in the Royal Oak 50th selling to online bidders, with 430 watch aficionados participating in person in the saleroom.
The impressive and highly anticipated star-lot, a Royal Oak reference 5402ST A2 – the second Royal Oak ever made – added extra fervor to the bidding. The watch was one of the four Royal Oak models presented to the press and public at the opening of the Basel watch fair in 1972.
During the auction, it eventually surpassed the CHF 1 million mark realizing CHF 1,058,500, therefore selling five times its pre-sale low estimate.
Another impressive result was achieved by the Royal Oak perpetual calendar in platinum, reference 25654PT with copper brown dial, and double-signed by Asprey realized CHF 1,022,200, doubling its pre-sale high estimate.
An icon probably worn by an icon, The Lagerfeld Royal Oak reference 5402ST, a very distinctively blackened stainless-steel Royal Oak Jumbo model, fetched CHF 937,500. The watch, in all likelihood, was bought in Italy in 1974 and is understood to have been worn by the famous German designer, creative director, fashion designer and artist, Karl Lagerfeld.
Finally, another remarkable result was achieved by the Royal Oak “Tuscan” Jubilée ref. 14802P limited edition platinum wristwatch with blue Tuscan dial, date, bracelet, made to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the model, which eventually sold for CHF 804,400.
Top Ten Lots of the Royal Oak 50th
Lot 8: Audemars Piguet Ref. 5402ST Royal Oak A series, “The A2” – An historically important and extremely well-preserved stainless-steel wristwatch with date, bracelet, box and certificate of origin.
Estimate: CHF 200,000-400,000
Achieved: CHF 1,058,500/ $ 1,073,319/ € 1,022,193 (world record for a vintage Royal Oak ever at auction)
Lot 40: Audemars Piguet Ref. 25654PT Royal Oak – An extremely rare and attractive platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with brown dial, bracelet, certificate and box retailed by Asprey bearing N0. 1.
Estimate: CHF 250,000-500,000
Achieved: CHF 1,022,200/ $1,036,511/ € 987,138 (World record for any perpetual calendar Royal Oak)
Lot 88: Audemars Piguet Ref. 5402ST Royal Oak Jumbo “Karl Lagerfeld” – A very distinctive blackened stainless-steel wristwatch with date and bracelet.
Estimate: CHF 100,000-200,000
Achieved: CHF 937,500/ $ 950,625/ € 905,343
Lot 10: Audemars Piguet Ref. 14802PT Royal Oak “Tuscan” Jubilée – An extremely attractive limited edition platinum wristwatch with blue Tuscan dial, date, bracelet, made to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the model.
Estimate: CHF 250,000-500,000
Achieved: CHF 804,400/ $ 815,662/ € 776,809 (world record for the model)
Lot 33: Audemars Piguet Ref. 25829TP Royal Oak – An extremely rare and superb tantalum and platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with open-worked dial and bracelet, part of a 16-pieces limited series.
Estimate: CHF 120,000-240,000
Achieved: CHF 768,100/ $ 779,259/ € 742,140 (world record for the model)
Lot 52: Audemars Piguet Ref. 5402ST Royal Oak Jumbo “Khanjar” – An extremely rare and fine stainless-steel wristwatch with date and bracelet, made for the Sultanate of Oman.
Estimate: CHF 150,000-300,000
Achieved: CHF 756,000/ $ 766,584/ € 730,069
Lot 15: Audemars Piguet Ref. 25636PT Royal Oak – A superbly rare and incredibly attractive platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with open-worked dial, moonphases, bracelet and box.
Estimate: CHF 200,000-400,000
Achieved: CHF 680,400/ $ 689,925/ € 657,052
Lot 54: Audemars Piguet Ref. 5554ST Royal Oak “Triple Serial” – A supremely rare stainless steel perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, 4-digit reference and “triple serial” case. The first and thinnest Royal Oak perpetual calendar model ever produced, part of a 49 pieces series.
Estimate: CHF 80,000-160,000
Achieved: CHF 680,400/ $ 689,925/ € 657,062
Lot 72: Audemars Piguet Ref. 25659BA – An impressive yellow gold and diamond perpetual calendar wristwatch with open worked dial, part of a 3-pieces limited series.
Estimate: CHF 250,000-500,000
Achieved: CHF 630’000/ $ 638,820/ € 608,391
Lot 61: Audemars Piguet Ref. 25654ST Royal Oak – A very attractive stainless steel perpetual calendar wristwatch with salmon dial, bracelet, certificate and box.
Estimate: CHF 100,000-200,000
Achieved: CHF 579,600/ $ 587,714/ € 559,719
Auction name: The Royal Oak 50th by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo Total amount achieved: CHF 22,303,780/ $22,616,032/ €21,538,760 Lots sold: 88 Lots offered: 88 Sold by lot: 100% Sold by value: 100%
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo has now revealed the creations by the independent watch makers for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV, which will take place on 27 and 28 May at the JW Marriott in Hong Kong.
The notable independent brands highlighted in this sale are Richard Mille, F.P. Journe, Lang & Heyne, Voutilainen, Christophe Claret, De Bethune, Gérald Genta, MB&F, Urwerk and Laurent Ferrier.
Richard Mille Ref. RM67-02 CA-FQ, Quartz TPT and titanium wristwatch, Circa 2021
Ever since the release of his first model in 2001 Richard Mille has been known for visionary and avant-garde designs with an aesthetic never seen before in the history of watchmaking.
The present RM 67-02 is in perfect tune with Mille’s philosophy pushed to the limits as this ultra light piece weighs a jaw dropping mere 32 grams (including the strap) thanks to the combination of TPT composite materials and grade 5 titanium of the case.
It was developed with Alexis Pinturault the French ski champion, who is the most successful French skier in World Cup history with 34 World Cup victories.
Richard Mille Ref. RM011 AH Ti, black-coated titanium skeletonized tonneau-shaped flyback chronograph wristwatch, numbered 2 of a limited edition of 30 pieces, circa 2009
With an ever engaging relationship with Formula 1, Richard Mille has offered numerous models in collaboration with professional athletes over the years, with one of the most recognised being the Felipe Masa series of RM011.
The present example RM011 belongs to one of the earliest limited edition models made under the RM011 umbrella. It is also one of the very first examples to feature a DLC-coated titanium case giving an all-black appeal contrasted with white, red and yellow accents, colours that pays its tribute to the racetrack. This piece was made especially for official Richard Mille authorized dealer, Chronopassion founded by respected collector and watch maker Laurent Picciotto.
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Resonance, platinum dual-time wristwatch, Circa 2003
Launched in 2000 the Chronomètre à Resonance had the effect of a tidal wave in the horological world as it was the world’s first wristwatch using the resonance phenomenon. The movement is composed of two independent balances alternatively serving as an “exciter” and “resonator”.
When in motion, the balances create the resonance effect and beat in opposition, naturally evening out each other’s discrepancies and thus permitting greater accuracy.
Made from 2000 to 2005, the first generation Chronomètre à Resonance features rhodium plated brass movements and a 38mm case. The present example is from circa 2003 in platinum with an attractively aged copper dial. This watch is complimented by its full set of accessories.
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain, platinum tourbillon wristwatch, Circa 2002
Engraved No. 191/02T, the present F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain in platinum from 2002 can be identified as part of the fourth generation of Journe’s Tourbillon Souverain with brass movements.
Measuring at 38mm in diameter, these fourth generations were produced between 2001 until 2003 with an estimated run of 320 examples. Cased only in platinum and pink gold, these timepieces were offered with dial plates from the most common yellow gold, followed by white gold, and like the present example in pink gold as being the rarest variation.
F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier, pink gold annual calendar wristwatch, Circa 2006
While the very first timepieces from F.P. Journe are mostly referred to the Tourbillon Souverain and the Resonance, it is around the same time where Journe also introduced the Octa Calendrier, being the first self-winding wristwatch by the firm.
Featuring an annual calendar complication with its signature asymmetric dial with two windows for day and month indication the date is indicated via retrograde style with a central hand.
The present example F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier in pink gold from circa 2006 with a 38mm diameter case belongs to an extremely rare variant featuring a black mother-of-pearl dial launched as a limited edition of 10 pieces in 2005 for Singaporean retailer Sincere Fine Watches.
Estimate: HK$470,000 – 935,000/ US$60,300-120,000
Lang & Heyne Friedrich II Remontoir “Prototype”: A unique stainless steel prototype wristwatch with black enamel dial, luminous hands, titanium movement, Circa 2021
With an estimated production of no more than 100 timepieces per year, German independent brand Lang & Heyne creates exclusive and innovative timepieces for watch lovers.
This season, Phillips is presenting the Friedrich II Remontoir “Prototype”, a unique timepiece featuring an entirely new movement developed by Lang & Heyne, made in collaboration with Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo and The Lavish Attic.
Lang & Heyne integrated a Remontoir mechanism into its Caliber VI movement, but with a slight twist, using titanium as the base material. It is almost unheard of until now, with movement made in titanium, a material which is hard to manufacture and process mainly due to its hardness and many other interesting properties that make it even harder for most manufacturers to consider it as an option to create a movement out of it.
The Friedrich II Remontoir “Prototype” model is simple and understated. The minimalistic appearance symbolises the amusement of simplicity without having to forego exclusive details. The dial indices and handcrafted hands are filled with superluminova, a non-radioactive and nontoxic afterglow pigment used to illuminate makers on watch faces. The bracelet was exclusively designed and produced in stainless steel just for this unique piece.
With the complex mechanism from Lang & Heyne, the serene black enamel dial, and an innovative approach to use titanium for the movement, the present timepiece offers a tremendous combination of breakthroughs for any discerning collector.
Estimate: In excess of HK$460,000 / US$59,000 (offered with no reserve)
Two more Lang & Heyne watches are available. First one is Anton in stainless steel. It is a flying tourbillon watch featuring a rectangular case and grand feu enamel dial. Estimate: HK$260,000 – 510,000. The second piece is Lang & Heyne Georg, a platinum watch with rectangular case, small seconds display and enamel dial.
Voutilainen Vingt-8 Hisui: A unique platinum wristwatch with tear drop lugs, Japanese lacquering, cabochon emerald, Circa 2017
The stunning Vingt-8 Hisui featured in this season’s sale is a piece unique by Kari Voutilainen. This creation also won the GPHG Artistic Crafts Watch Prize in 2014. It was created in collaboration with one of the greatest lacquer studio in Japan, Unryuan, under the guidance of Master Tatsuo Kitamura.
Meticulously selected according to colour and quality, the dial is crafted with natural elements including gold dust, gold leaf, great green turban shells and abalone shell found from New Zealand.
It is also worth noting that the chameleon like dial is ever-changing in shades from various angle, while viewed in its frontal manner the dial shines in green and blue, on the other hand when viewed from its profile, the dial can change into a stunning blue only shade. Operated by the Cabochon emerald set crown, the in-house movement is the very same calibre found in the Vingt-8 series.
Christophe Claret Soprano: A limited edition white gold and PVD-coated titanium semi-skeletonized minute repeating tourbillon wristwatch, Circa 2012
With an expertise for minute repeating timepieces, Christophe Claret released the Soprano Minute Repeater equipped with a 1-minute tourbillon escapement and an impressive Westminster chime with four hammers and patented cathedral gongs.
With a futuristic design language, the case is composed of white gold for the bezel and caseback while the main case and casebands are composed of grade 5 PVD-coated titanium to maximise the quality of the chime totalling 45mm in diameter. Requiring extreme precision to achieve the perfect Westminster Chime each individual gong must be executed to the highest level of accuracy. The present example of Christophe Claret Soprano Minute Repeater watch is numbered 6.
Estimate: HK$260,000 – 510,000/ US$33,300-65,400
During the sale, Phillips will be offering highly sought-after De Bethune models like DB 25 Starry Various in Titanium, DB5S Stainless Steel, DB 24 Titanium Big Power Super Sport, DB28GS Grand Bleu dive watch in Titanium and Black Zirconium, DB S-R Pink Gold Skeleton, DB 25 Starry Sky in White Gold and DB28 Titanium.
The organizers are also auctioning Laurent Ferrier timepieces like Galet Classic in 18K white gold and Galet Square Micro-Rotor Autumn model featuring stainless steel case and a salmon dial.
The sale is also offering a MB&F HM3 Megawind Final Edition watch made in 2015, in a limited edition of 25 pieces. It features a black PVD coated gold and titanium case. Estimate: HK$200,000 – 400,000. Another lot from MB&F is a Horological Machine No8 CAN-AM, crafted in 18K pink gold and titanium. Estimate: HK$250,000 – 450,000.
The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV Auction: 27 – 28 May, 2022 Hong Kong Preview: 24- 28 May, 2022 Location: JW Marriott Hong Kong, 88 Queensway, Admiralty
Following the announcement of selected highlights from The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV, which will take place on 27 and 28 May, Phillips has announced an additional highlight that will be featured in the sale – the F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain “China 2010” limited edition in platinum.
The present example features a red lacquered dial displaying the five stars as seen on the national flag of China is one out of the five examples created to commemorate the opening of F.P. Journe Boutique in Beijing in 2010. It is exceedingly rare and important due to its bold design and important commemoration of one of the brand’s most important markets.
Established in 1999, F.P. Journeis determined by collectors around the world as one of the few grails of the world of haute horology. Epitomizing connoisseurship and exclusivity, Journe timepieces are exceedingly rare with an extremely low annual output of less than 1,000 pieces worldwide.
As one of the most exceptional contemporary watchmakers, the founder Francois-Paul Journe has successfully blended the perfect balance of art and mechanical engineering, with an emphasis in creating innovatively sound complications, functions, paired precisely and logically with its finishing and materials.
Since 2002, F.P. Journe has been awarded a total of 7 awards at the prestigious GPHG. Among which, he was granted the highest award, Aiguille d’Or “Golden Hand”, at the GPHG in 2004 for the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain, the first tourbillon wristwatch paired with remontoire in history.
In 2010, F.P. Journecelebrated the opening of their boutique in Beijing at a prime location located in the Yintaï Centre, being the 6th boutique worldwide following Tokyo, Hong Kong, Geneva, Paris and New York.
To commemorate the memorable milestone of the brand, F.P. Journe created an exclusive limited edition series of 5 Tourbillon Souverain timepieces with deadbeat seconds, remontoir d’égalité, and power reserve indication.
The present lot also features a vibrantly colored red lacquered dial displaying the five stars as seen on the national flag of China, replacing the hour units for the power reserve indication as seen in regular examples of the model. This was the first ever Tourbillon Souverain to feature a red dial.
In 2014, F.P. Journe was chosen as the official horological patron for the diplomatic relations between France and China for over 50 years, further solidifying his status as the best in the industry, not only in the western part of the world but also the up and coming region of Asia, more specifically China.
Based on the research of Phillips’ specialists, only 2 of the 5 examples made, including the one to be offered in the upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV, is known in private hands, making the lot distinctly rare.
The present example is furthermore well-preserved and complete with its full set of accessories. Not only a testament to the importance of the Chinese market to F.P. Journe, but also a piece of horological art and the most iconic Journe complicated wristwatch ever made.
Model name: F.P. Journe,Tourbillon Souverain “China 2010” limited edition in platinum
The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV Auction: 27-28 May 2022 Hong Kong Preview: 24-28 May 2022 Location: JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo has announced highlights ahead of The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV, which will take place on 27 and 28 May at the JW Marriott in Hong Kong.
The auction follows Phillips Watches’ most successful year in Asia, which achieved an annual total of HK$422 million/ US$ 54 million in 2021 and the first white glove year in the region’s auction history.
Leading the sale is a possibly unique Patek Philippe Ref. 3974 in a yellow gold case made by the legendary casemaker Jean-Pierre Hagmann. The Ref. 3974 was launched in 1989 to celebrate the brand’s 150th anniversary.
A self-winding watch featuring a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, 24-hour indication and phases of the moon, it was the world’s most complicated wristwatch when launched. One of the earliest produced, this truly stellar example features a striking black lacquer dial embellished with the prestigious symbol of excellence, the Calatrava Cross.
Other details that show extensive customization by Patek Philippe include the italicized font used for the calendar indications, and the applied gold Breguet numerals that are always a rare and desirable configuration for complicated Patek Philippe wristwatches matching beautifully with the hue of the case.
Exceptional modern timepieces by Patek Philippe will be offered in the sale. Highlights include a Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5723/112R-001, which features the rare and desirable baguette-cut ruby-set bezel and indexes totalling 4 carats.
Incredibly rare and fresh-to-the-market, this is the first example to appear to be stamped with the prestigious brand Tiffany & Co., complete with its full set of accessories with a Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin stamped by Tiffany & Co. New York, USA.
First launched in 2003, Ref. 5101 features a large yet elegant stepped platinum case reminiscent of Art Deco aesthetics. This reference is fitted with two complications that are very difficult to build within the confines of a rectangular movement and case, due to the lack of space.
The present watch, fitted with a classic salmon dial, featuring masculine touch of blackened Breguet numerals.
At Baselworld in 2010, Patek Philippe announced the Ref. 5950, a cushion-form, single button split-seconds chronograph with the incredible caliber CHR 27-525PS, which was first seen in 2005 in the 5959P, and it was the thinnest column-wheel chronograph caliber ever made when launched.
An “application piece” reserved for the brand’s best clients, the steel Ref. 5950 further impressed collectors with its raised, applied black gold Breguet numerals, black lacquer scroll detailing at the corners and on the buckle, and its lustrous opaline dial.
Vintage Rolexes have seen a significant increase in demand over the years. Phillips is presenting a great selection of vintage Rolex models this season with many fresh-to-the-market gems, to meet collectors’ ever-growing desire for vintage watches.
Offered at auction for the first time, the present Rolex Daytona Ref. 16528 with an “R83” serial from circa 1989 is an extremely rare sight. Featuring a MK1 200-unit bezel evolving from the Ref. 6265, it is fitted with a concept porcelain dial featuring an unusual four lines of texts “OYSTER COSMOGRAPH SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED” below the coronet.
Furthermore, another interesting feature is its black “DAYTONA” inscription above the 6 o’clock instead of its usual cherry coloured signature, hence earning its nickname the “Ying Yang” as depicted in Pucci Papaleo’s Ultimate Rolex Daytona book.
With only a handful of examples known in the market to date, the Rolex Ref. 6263 features UAE Quraysh Hawk dial with the signature of the Ministry of Defense written in Arabic script was made specially for Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum.
Released in 1965, the Ref. 6241 produced until approximately 1969 for a total of four years, and it is estimated by scholars and established connoisseurs that only 2,300 examples in stainless steel were produced.
The present Ref. 6241 “Paul Newman” with a 1.7 million serial from circa 1968 is of the later batch of the reference featuring an oval-shaped case and a correct Mk I bezel insert. Not only the present model is offered in excellent condition, but it also accompanied by all the accessories making this “Exotic” Ref. 6241 one of the few known in “full set” condition.
The present Submariner with the so-called Explorer dial Ref. 5512 is undoubtedly part of the earliest production recognisable by its exceptional details such as the attractive two-liner gilt dial with chapter ring and pointed crown guards.
Marked with the most desirable and important detail of all is the dot that sits at 6 o’clock which identified by collectors as the “exclamation mark” dial. Such dials were in production only for a very short period between 1961 until 1962 to designate the transition of luminous material with lower radiation count due to health hazards during the era. This extraordinary fresh-to-the-market gem is the earliest known Ref. 5512 with “exclamation mark” Explorer dial.
Metiers d’Art Watches from Patek Philippe
When it comes to the art of enamelling in timepieces, the first to be mentioned would often be Patek Philippe. This season, Phillips is delighted to present an array of watches feature Métiers d’Art techniques, from cloisonné enamelling, hand engraving to marquetry.
Created by acclaimed enameller Anita Porchet, the cloisonné enamelled Peacock Butterfly scene framed within the sinuous lines of the Calatrava case is simply one of a kind. It has been kept in the collection of the original owner for 13 years and never offered in auctions.
The Patek Philippe open face pocket watch Ref. 866/26 in yellow gold features an exquisite miniature enamel painting of “Retour du Verger” or “Return from the Orchard” by Spanish painter Francisco Ribera Gómez from the early 20th century, it was reinterpreted by master enameller Mrs. Hélène May-Mercier at Patek Philippe in 1974, who was an enamel miniature painter at Patek Philippe in Geneva from the 1970s until the 1990s.
Presented as part of the Rare Handcrafts collection as a unique piece, the Peregrine Falcon open-faced pocket watch Ref.982/147 exhibits the spectacular decoration of Marquetry, a technique consists of stacking sheets of veneer into black, followed by a cutting process to produce fine wood pieces that only a handful of marquetry makers can assemble into art pieces.
Unveiled in 2015 as part of the Rare Handcrafts collection, the cloisonné enameled Ref. 5089 produced in low numbers pays a thematic tribute to its great traditions.
Illustrated with the timeless, understated lines of the Calatrava cased in white gold sets an ample canvas for the world’s most beautiful and legendary alps, The Enchanted Mountains series.
The quartet of enamel-dialed Calatravas span across high altitude from the Matterhorn of Switzerland, Mont Blanc of France to the summits of Mount Everest Asia and last but not least, Mount Fuji the symbol of Japan.
A. Lange & Söhne
Taking the tourbillon to new heights, the Pour le Mérite was the first wristwatch to feature the most precious fusée-and-chain transmission. Exceedingly rare and important, the present Ref. 701.001 is numbered 49 of the 150 timepieces made in gold.
A complete work of art, the Tourbillon Pour le Mérite from circa 1995 is one of the earliest batches has aged with an attractive patina from oxidation throughout the whole case.
The Tourbograph Perpetual “Pour le Mérite” is a unique combination of a fusée-and-chain transmission with a tourbillon, chronograph, rattrapante and a perpetual calendar. These five complications were first united in this wristwatch in 2017, limited to 50 timepieces in platinum.
The present example in platinum numbered 37 from circa 2020 is the first example to appear at a Phillips auction.
Further highlights of the sale include watches from independent watchmakers such as Richard Mille, F.P. Journe, Lang & Heyne, Kari Voutilainen and Christophe Claret will be announced in due course.
Phillips has announced the addition of a new Watch auction to the house’s expanding sale calendar.
The New York Watch Auction: SIX will be hosted on 11-12 June, offering collectors over 160 rare and historically important timepieces.
Leading the sale is the very first George Daniels Anniversary Watch ever made, cased in platinum and bearing the unique serial number “00.”
The sale also includes an F.P.Journe Chronomètre Souverain gifted to Dr. George Daniels, CBE, by François-Paul Journe, as well as five wristwatches from the acclaimed collection of American actor James Garner, led by his iconic Heuer Carrera, one of the most important Heuers to come to market in recent times.
The George Daniels Anniversary Watch, Number “00” Leading the auction is the George Daniels Anniversary Watch in platinum, bearing the coveted serial number, “00”. Over the course of Daniels’ lifetime, only 24 unique pocket watches were entirely hand-made by him, in addition to two completely unique, hand‐made wristwatches.
Produced in collaboration with the esteemed British watchmaker, Roger Smith, two serially-produced, limited edition models were developed under his leadership and bear his signature; the George Daniels Millennium launched in 1998 with just over 50 examples made, and the George Daniels Anniversary watch launched in 2010, with just 35 examples produced.
Dr. George Daniels, CBE, is revered as a 20th and 21st century horological master, whose ingenious co-axial escapement had a profound impact on the history of mechanical timekeeping.
Daniels’ concept for the Anniversary model was to commemorate the 35th anniversary of his invention of the co-axial escapement. He approached his sole protégé, Roger Smith, who today is recognized as his successor and the premier British horologist, to collaborate on producing the series together.
A total of 35 George Daniels Anniversary watches, commemorating the 35th anniversary of the co-axial escapement, would be produced over the following years since its launch in 2010, with just four examples produced in platinum, like the present lot.
George Daniels wanted the Anniversary model to also be a celebration of his life’s work, and the platinum “00” is a wonderful representation of the best in handmade, traditional English watchmaking. A portion of the proceeds from the sale will benefit The George Daniels Educational Trust, The Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, and the Horological Society of New York.
Phillips will also auction a unique and historically important F. P. Journe platinum Chronomètre Souverain wristwatch gifted to and owned by George Daniels. The timepiece was a gift and tribute from François-Paul Journe to Daniels in recognition of their enduring friendship, and personalized with the movement engraved, “FP to George Daniels my Mentor 2010”.
Included with the watch is a signed letter from Journe, noting in French, “Thanks to your publications as The Art of Breguet or Watchmaking, I have patiently learned on my workbench to make my first watch, you know the rest.”
Journe’s Chronomètre Souverain is amongst his most recognizable references, and was his first timepiece with a central time display.
Released in several variations, the principle objective of these timepieces, as the name implies, is chronometric precision. Contemporary, elegant, and classic, this unique Chronomètre Souverain is the perfect match between the genius of its creator and his predecessors. The beauty of this wristwatch is not only displayed on the dial side, but also when turned over one is amazed by its superbly hand finished movement made from 18K pink gold.
First appearing at auction in 2012 when items from George Daniels’ collection were sold following his passing, the present lot is in nearly unworn condition.
A selection of watches from the personal collection of American actor James Garner has been consigned directly by his daughter, Gigi Garner. The group is headlined by a Heuer Carrera reference 2447, notably seen in The Rockford Files and printed with Garner’s name on the dial. Heuer chronographs have been used for timed events from the Olympics to the Grand Prix of Monaco, and today they are sought by collectors for their iconic designs and technical innovations.
In the mid-1960s, several Carreras were modified upon request by retailers and sponsors affiliated with Heuer to have special emblems and names printed on the dial. Often, these were related to auto racing.
As an Indianapolis 500 pace car driver, auto racing enthusiast, and producer and star of the 1966 movie, Grand Prix, it makes perfect sense that James Garner would be one of those entitled to receive a special Carrera.
Produced in part by Garner’s own Cherokee Productions, the film went on to win three Academy Awards. Garner was one of the few actors skilled enough as a driver to train with a professional racer.
After the production and release of Grand Prix, Garner’s interest in racing continued to grow. His daughter Gigi recounted that her father attended at least 40 Indy 500s, and drove the pace car at the event on three separate occasions – usually with this Heuer Carrera on his wrist. According to Gigi, it was his “favorite everyday watch” and is seen often in pictures from the era and on episodes of The Rockford Files.
This incredible piece of horological, automotive, and cinematic history is followed by a quartet of Cartier watches, most delightfully a manually-wound Cartier Baignoire. The present example, owned and worn by the actor, is a medium-sized model of the Baignoire Paris dating to the 1960s.
Preserved in outstanding original condition, the case bears the eagle’s head hallmark for 18K gold imported to France, and a “Made in France” designation, corroborating the “Paris” dial. It was most notably seen and photographed on Garner’s wrist during the 2000 premiere of Space Cowboys.
A portion of the proceeds from the sale of his watches will benefit The James Garner Animal Rescue Fund.
Christie’s Watches Geneva presents Watches Online: The Geneva Edit, a curated selection of eye-catching timepieces, including the most coveted modern icons.
In pole position for this Online Sale, which will take place from 3 to 17 May, is a stunning Richard Mille RM 11-03 Automatic Flyback Chronograph in titanium. Considered to be a must-have in collections of contemporary modern sports timepieces, this Richard Mille reference with its yellow rubber bracelet will not fail to seduce bidders.
This year, Christie’s Geneva is also celebrating the 50th Anniversary of Audemars Piguet’s iconic Royal Oak design with a stunning curation of these legends, among which features No. A 1690 of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘A-series’ with tropical dial Ref. 5402ST.
During the auction, a number of Patek Philippe ‘Nautilus’ watches will be offered, including Ref. 5711/1R-001 Brown Dragon, Ref. 5712/1A and Ref. 5980/1R Chronograph.
Another highlight of this auction is a Rolex ‘Day-Date’ Ref. 1807 specially made for Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said of Oman, with a particularly attractive case and bracelet finish, and the striking red signature.
Richard Mille RM11-03 Automatic Flyback Chronograph in Titanium
Replacing the RM 11, which was launched in 2007, this RM 11-03 Automatic Chronograph with flyback function, from circa 2019, is highly characteristic of the Maison’s horological DNA.
Inspired by the world of motor racing, the Richard Mille RM 11-03, with its tonneau-shaped titanium case, borrows several codes that make it one of the sportiest models in the catalogue.
A transparent sapphire crystal case back which allows the wearer to view the movement within the watch: The RMAC3 Calibre with automatic winding movement, offers analogue time function, flyback chronograph, 60-minute countdown timer and oversized date display. It has a skeletonised dial with raised yellow-dotted hour markers and Arabic numerals.
A tachymeter scale circles the dial near the bezel in a green font and a small seconds sub-dial, there is a date aperture between the 4 and 5 o’clock position, and the current year aperture under the 12 o’clock position. Its two mainspring barrels are mounted side-by-side to ensure stable coupling and provide up to 55 hours of power reserve.
Patek Philippe pink gold ‘Nautilus’ Ref. 5980/1R Chronograph, circa 2015
Making its debut in 2006, the Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5980 was introduced on the occasion of the Basel Fair during the 30th anniversary of the iconic reference 3700/1 designed by Gérald Genta. As a vital complication of a sports watch, it is equipped with a chronograph function and the renowned “bull’s eye” subsidiary dial.
First seen on reference 5960, this design has captivated the heart of collectors by showcasing the hours in the inner part of the dial and minutes on the outer ring.
Reference 5980 is fitted with Patek Philippe’s entirely in-house made chronograph calibre 28-520 C.
The calibre 28-520 C was originally created for the reference 5960, Patek Philippe’s first self-winding chronograph with annual calendar, it was later adjusted for reference 5980 without the date display.
Patek Philippe pink gold ‘Nautilus’ Ref. 5711/1R-001 Brown Dragon
The present reference 5711/1R-001 is one of the most coveted timepieces of Patek Philippe’s contemporary production.
Launched in 2006 and paying tribute to the iconic Nautilus reference 3700 designed by Gérald Genta in 1976, the reference 5711 was crafted with a three part case of slightly larger thickness, one millimetre wider than the reference 3700, to which it is practically identical on an aesthetical level, but featuring a sapphire display back revealing the caliber 324 S C. Now with a sweep centre seconds mechanism added to the date function, the model quickly focused the attention of Patek Philippe collectors, it is highly sought after and considered as a must-have within contemporary collections.
This Nautilus 5711/1R-001 bears the original 1976 design and features a very attractive “chocolate” colored dial.
Patek Philippe steel ‘Nautilus’ Ref. 5712/1A
The present model (from circa 2015) is the cousin of the “5711” collection, released at the same time, under reference 5712/1A, noticeable at first glance with its beautiful moon phase and power-reserve indicator on a blue dial. Equally popular, it is a very chic and sporty model, a showstopper. It has a stainless steel 40mm Nautilus case with a beautiful satin brushed bezel.
Reference 5712 perfectly symbolises the timeless Nautilus design and its masculine elegance. This very sought-after model was released in October 2006 to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus collection, and to replace reference 3712 in production from 2005 to 2006.
Consigned by a refined collector, the present timepiece is offered in very good overall condition.
Audemars Piguet, steel ‘Royal Oak A-series’ with tropical dial, Ref. 5402ST, No. 1690
An iconic model of the Audemars Piguet Manufacture, the Royal Oak “A-series” can be considered one of the most collectible luxury sport timepieces. In fact, the Royal Oak was the first true luxury sports watch.
The present watch is part of the first 2,000 “A-series” Royal Oaks ever created, with the serial number “A 1690”, the 1,690th Royal Oak of the inaugural series. Initially, only 1,000 watches were to be made, an ambitious target for a timepiece which was at the time the most expensive steel sportswatch and did not sell very well. Eventually it became successful, they sold out and production was increased to 2,000.
After the “A-series” sold out, they progressed on to the “B” series, “C” series, and so on. The present watch sports an original “A-series” dial, with the AP logo above the 6 o’clock index, and reads “Swiss” below.
With its attractive dial and stainless steel-case of strong proportions, the present watch is an outstanding example of the iconic design that set a milestone in watchmaking history as the initial “sport elegance” watch.
Rolex Ref. 1807, Made for Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said of Oman
This 18k yellow gold Rolex Day-Date automatic wristwatch Ref. 1807 was made for Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said of Oman. The late Sultan Gaboos Bin Said al Said ordered several timepieces from Rolex to gift to his close associates, ministers, diplomats, and other senior officials of the Sultanate.
This Ref. 1807 example is one of them. Made in circa 1974, it is particularly attractive for its case and bracelet finish, which is reminiscent of wood bark, as well as its matt black dial, and the Sultan’s name printed in compelling red above the standard “Superlative Chronometer” certification at six o’clock.
Following “The Champion Collection, Part II: Sport Elegance”, held in early April, Christie’s Hong Kong announces The Champion Collection journey with Part III: The Artistry of Complications, a single owner live sale which will be held on 24 May 2022.
The auction will showcase rare treasures such as the Patek Philippe Ref. 5002 along with several references with special-coloured dials, for instance, a Ref. 5970R, Ref. 5020J, Ref. 5050J and Ref. 5059G. Other examples of Haute Horlogerie will be presented from Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Greubel Forsey and Audemars Piguet.
The same day, 24 May, Christie’s Hong Kong will be holding a second live sale, The Important Watches Sale, which will feature selected pieces from The Kairos Collection, the finest collection of Patek Philippe contemporary timepieces ever to appear at auction.
The selection presented under the Important Watches comprises 30 lots, including the Grandes Complications Ref. 5951P-012 and Ref. 5078R-001.
Among the other most extraordinary timepieces to be presented during this sale: a Patek Philippe Ref. 605HU and a Ref. 1415J, two Lange & Söhne 20th Anniversary Sets, a collection of 10 stunning timepieces by F.P. Journe, as well as limited editions by Maximilian Büsser & Friends LM.
(1) The Champion Collection Part III: The Artistry of Complications
Comprising almost 450 modern and contemporary significant and iconic timepieces by all the major watch brands, this marvellous collection was formed over nearly 20 years by a prominent private collector. The marques represented in The Champion Collection include Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Rolex, Panerai, IWC and Vacheron Constantin.
Christie’s Hong Kong, working closely with the collector, curated the vast array of exceptional timepieces into 6 thematically distinct sales over a period of 12 months. The cycle was off to a flying start last November with The Champion Collection, Part I achieving HK$121 million.
Part II: Sport Elegance opened the 2022 season in Hong Kong with a stunning collection of iconic ‘sport chic’ watches, 120 lots that realised a total of HK$26 million (EUR 3 Millions).
The upcoming Part III: The Artistry of Complications will bookend the first half of the year on 24 May 2022, with 73 lots and a total low estimate set at HK$80 million (EUR 9.5 Millions).
The epic watch sale series will continue to unfold in the second half of 2022, with The Champion Collection, Part IV: The Panerai Encyclopedia – Chapter Icomprising 85 Panerai timepieces, and The Champion Collection, Part V: The Panerai Encyclopedia – Final Chapter with a further 83 highly sought-after Panerais coming to auction online.
Concluding the year will be a single owner live sale presenting the series finale, The Champion Collection, Part VI: The Finest Watchmaking, led by 83 timepieces, among which stunning Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin enamel watches.
The top of The Artistry of Complications
Lot 2273 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon
Only 7 pieces of this magnificent and highly complicated 18k pink gold double-dial wristwatch are known to exist. With two dials and twelve complications, including a cathédrale minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with retrograde date, moon age and angular motion, sidereal time and sky chart.
This exceptional rose gold reference 5002R is one of the rarest versions as a total of only 25 pieces were made – in comparison with 40 pieces each in yellow gold and platinum. To date, only five other examples of the rose gold Sky Moon Tourbillon have returned to the market. Produced between 2001 and 2012 (the rose gold version was introduced in 2002), its technical complexity and brilliance caused a sensation.
This ultra-exclusive Patek Philippe Grande Complication is presented in superlative condition with a full set of accessories and the impeccable provenance of The Champion Collection, one of the world’s greatest.
The reference 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon holds a very special place amongst Patek Philippe’s greatest horological achievements. It was the most complicated wristwatch ever made by the Maison at the time, and available only by invitation and interview to Patek Philippe’s most important clients. Naturally, as one of the world’s most respected collectors and connoisseurs, the owner of The Champion Collection was among the chosen few.
Inspired by the famous ‘Star Calibre 2000’, a double-dialled pocket watch made to commemorate the new Millennium, the Sky Moon Tourbillon has two dials. The first displays mean solar time, retrograde perpetual calendar and phases of the moon. The other side features the sky chart, a map of the night sky in the Northern Hemisphere.
Estimate: HK$10,000,000-20,000,000 – EUR 1.18 Million – CHF 1.22 Million.
Rare Patek Philippe wristwatches with special-coloured dials
Lot 2258 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5970R with black dial
The only known, possibly unique 18k pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, 24-hour and leap year indication with black dial.
Unique versions of arguably Patek Philippe’s most important and symbolic of complications, the perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch, are one of the ultimate ownership goals of collectors worldwide. The present watch is one such elevated timepiece, being the only publicly known reference 5970R-019 – rose gold with a black dial, fully confirmed by the original Certificate of Origin.
The rose gold version of the 5970 is usually fitted with a silvered dial, so that the unexpected black dial of this watch with rose gold numerals gives it a dramatic new aesthetic. Furthermore, production of the rose (and white) gold 5970s ceased in 2007 and production of the reference ceased entirely in 2010.
The present watch, sold at the Patek Philippe salon in Geneva to its current owner in 2016, almost a decade after the pink gold version was discontinued, is one of the most significant watches of the reference in private hands.
As Patek Philippe’s unique complicated watches were only ever created for the company’s best clients, the owner of The Champion Collection was favoured with special pieces of the highest exclusivity.
Lot 2256 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5020J with brown dial
The only known and possibly unique exemplar of the 18k gold cushion-shaped perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, 24 hour, leap year indication and brown dial with Breguet numerals.
One of the stand-out Patek Philippe special-order watches that are the jewels in the crown of The Champion Collection, this probably unique reference 5020 with stunning confirmed brown dial and the great exclusivity of its own reference number (5020J-016), can be considered one of the most important examples of the already extremely rare reference 5020 cushion-shaped perpetual calendar chronograph.
Almost certainly made by special request as an ‘out of series’ piece with its unique brown dial, the highly individual aesthetic of the watch places it among the most desirable of Patek Philippe’s 21st century perpetual calendar chronographs.
The standard production 5020 – manual winding perpetual calendar with chronograph – was introduced in 1994 and discontinued in 2002. The case of the present watch dates from 1994 and its movement, calibre 27 70 Q dates from 2010.
Therefore, the case is from the first year of production, but the movement was made almost 8 years after production of the 5020 ended. Such ‘out of series’ watches were created using pristine old stock cases with movements that are unrelated in date. They were usually made on the specific instructions of Mr. Stern for very special clients, such as the owner of The Champion Collection.
The probably unique brown dial and the fact that this watch was provided with a specific individual reference number confirm its legitimacy as a fully formed model in its own right and as such, an extreme rarity and prize catch for the Patek Philippe collector. Reference 5020 was available in yellow, pink, and white gold, as well as platinum. It is believed that only 750 examples of this reference were ever made in total.
Lot 2247 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5050J with slate grey dial
An extremely rare 18k gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date, leap year indication, moon phases and slate grey dial with Breguet numerals.
With highly appealing and very unusual, grey-coloured dial, this yellow gold reference 5050J-023 is one of the ultra-exclusive ‘London Edition’ series that were created in 2015 at the request of Philippe Stern using new old stock cases and movements.
It is thought that a maximum of five pieces were made with a grey dial and were only available to those collectors who were personally known to Mr. Stern. The present watch is probably the only the third example known publicly. Furthermore, it is preserved in like-new condition and is accompanied by the full set of accessories. Such ‘out of series’ late production watches are fascinating to collectors and are among the rarest pieces of the reference.
The standard production 5050 – automatic perpetual calendar with retrograde date, was introduced in 1993 and discontinued in 2002. The case of the present watch dates from 1994 and its movement, calibre 315-136 dates from 2004. Therefore, the case is from the first two years of reference 5050 production and the movement from towards the end of the 5050s successor reference 5059s production (which used the same calibre) and was discontinued in 2006.
Lot 2251 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5059G with salmon dial
A possibly unique and only known 18k white gold automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, retrograde date, moon phases, leap year indication and rose dial.
This extraordinary salmon dial reference 5059G-018 is the first example ever to be offered at auction and can be considered one of the most important individual watches of the reference 5059.
It is exceptional not only for its incredibly rare and rich salmon-coloured dial with raised gold Roman numerals, but also as the only known example of any reference 5059 in which the movement bears Patek Philippe’s ‘PP’ certification of excellence mark on its movement instead of the traditional ‘Geneva seal’ found on all other known examples.
According to the foremost Patek Philippe scholars, the present watch is the only known example of reference 5059 with its movement bearing the Patek Philippe of ‘PP’ seal of excellence instead of the earlier ‘Geneva Seal’ stamp.
The Geneva Seal, or Poinçon de Genève, has for many decades been considered the ultimate standard in watchmaking. However, it only controlled the standard of finishing and decoration of the watch movement. Testing for precision was an optional part of achieving the Geneva Seal.
Thus in 2009, Patek Philippe decided to create their own ‘PP Seal’ standard of excellence which covered almost every aspect of the watch, up to and including, the ownership experience. In 2012, the criteria for the Geneva Seal were upgraded in response.
Introduced in 1998, it was the first serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date to be made by Patek Philippe. It was also the first model since the legendary reference 2497 and 2438-1 to have a sweep centre seconds on a perpetual calendar watch.
The model is distinctive for its officier style case with elongated lugs with screwed bars and hinged back and display cuvette. The movement is the automatic calibre 315 with 21K gold rotor, the fascinating retrograde date function is part of the perpetual calendar mechanism whereby at the end of each month the date hand instantly ‘flies’ back to 1.
Marvels of Haute Horlogerie
Lot 2212 – Vacheron Constantin. An extremely rare and exceptional limited edition platinum skeletonised minute repeating wristwatch.
Limited to 15 pieces, this is No.1. Circa 2006. Estimate: HK$1,000,000-2,000,000.
Lot 2216 – A very rare and impressive Jaeger-LeCoultre platinum semi-skeletonised spherical tourbillon wristwatch with 24 hour display and power reserve, and Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 model.
Limited to 75 pieces, this example is from circa 2008.
Lot 2218 – An impressive, highly complicated and very rare Jules Audemars Grande Complication model, Ref. 25866PT, platinum automatic minute repeating perpetual calendar split seconds chronograph wristwatch with leap year indication, number of week and moon phases.
Lot 2219 – Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 2 Model. An extremely rare and magnificent platinum limited edition asymmetrical wristwatch with differential quadruple tourbillon and power reserve.
Limited to 11 pieces, this example is No. 1/11. Circa 2010.
Lot 2265 – A Patek Philippe Ref. 5004A is an extremely rare and important stainless steel perpetual calendar split seconds chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, 24 hour and leap year indication.
Possibly 60 pieces made, 9 known and fresh to the market, this example is from circa 2012. Estimate: HK$4,000,000-8,000,000.
Lot 2270 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5275P is an exceptional and very rare platinum limited edition hour striking wristwatch with jumping hour, minute and second, made for the 175th Anniversary of Patek Philippe in 2014.
175 pieces were made.
(2) Important Watches and the Rise of the Independent Watchmakers, Featuring The Kairos Collection Part II
Patek Philippe World Times masterpieces from the 1940s
Lot 2443 – Patek Philippe Ref. 605HU
The present yellow gold Ref. 605 HU is a superb and extremely well-preserved example of Patek Philippe’s world time watches with cloisonné enamel dial. Patek Philippe’s reference 605 HU (Heure Universelle) World Time dress watches with cloisonné enamel dial are among the most beautiful horological masterpieces of the marque’s 20th century production.
Manufactured in 1948, and sold in 1954, this magnificent exemplar of Haute Horlogerie, one of the earliest to avail itself of Louis Cottier’s world time system, and created under Cottier’s direct supervision, is presented for the first time at auction.
Among the 95 pieces produced by Louis Cottier and Patek Philippe from 1939 to 1964, only 3 examples in yellow gold, with an enamel map depicting the entire globe, are known to have survived.
One is displayed at the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, one in a private collection and this one, which is being presented at auction for the first time at Christie’s in Hong Kong.
Lot 2442 – Patek Philippe Ref. 1415J
This exceptional and very rare 18k gold world time wristwatch Ref. 1415J, manufactured in 1949, is for the first time at auction.
Surviving for over 70 years in astoundingly crisp and original condition, it gives collectors and those who search for objects of unsurpassed quality, the opportunity to possess a previously unknown reference 1415J, one of Patek Philippe’s most sought after ‘golden age’ classic references. Carefully preserved over the years as part of a private collection, its exclusivity and desirability is greatly enhanced by its excellent original condition.
A further layer of rarity is bestowed upon the present watch as one of the small number known publicly with both the post-1948 ‘short’ Patek Philippe signature and the names of the world cities in English. From a total of 115 reference 1415 made, 82 were in a yellow gold case and around 65 of those have a silvered dial.
Of those watches, fewer than twenty bear a fully applied hour marker dial with ‘short’ signature and “Lys” shape hands. Furthermore, less than half-a-dozen have been identified in such incredible original condition.
The Lange & Söhne 20th Anniversary Sets
Lots 2351, 2352 – Lange & Söhne. Lange 1 20th Anniversary Set
Fresh to the market, this superb white gold pair of ‘His & Hers’ Lange 1 20th Anniversary wristwatches are the first set in white gold to be presented at auction.
This special pairing of the legendary ‘Lange 1’ and ‘Little Lange 1’ was made to celebrate ‘togetherness’ for the 20th Anniversary of the now iconic Lange 1 model that was launched in 1994 and re-established the reputation of the historic brand for the modern era.
Debuted at the Hong Kong Watches & Wonders fair in 2014, A. Lange & Söhne introduced five different pairings of the Lange 1 20th Anniversary sets, a limited edition of 20 pieces being made of each type. These highly exclusive sets of two watches comprise a Lange 1 (38.5 mm.) and a Little Lange 1 (36.1 mm).
Lot 2351- Ref.811.063 The Little Lange 1: 18k white gold and diamond-set limited edition wristwatch with date and power reserve. Estimate: HK$400,000-800,000.
Lot 2352- Ref.101.063 The Lange 1: 18k white gold limited edition wristwatch with date and power reserve. Estimate: HK$400,000-800,000.
Lots 2347, 2348, 2349 – Lange & Söhne. The Hourglass 20th Anniversary Set
Never before seen at auction, this exceptional and important set of three baguette diamond-set platinum Lange & Söhne wristwatches were produced exclusively as a special edition for the 20th Anniversary of the Japan boutiques of the highly prestigious retailer ‘Hourglass’ which was founded in 1996.
Only available to buy in the full set of three and offered to select VIP clients of Hourglass, each watch is a very special example of one of Lange & Söhne’s iconic and most revered models. Further underlining the importance of the edition, each model made for the set was given its own new reference number to distinguish it as a special series, standing apart from regular production watches.
Lot 2347-Ref. 405.836 Datograph Up/Down – platinum, set with 36 Top Wesselton, IF-VVS quality baguette cut diamonds on the bezel weighing a total of 4.5 carats. Movement Lange calibre 951.6. Estimate: HK$1,600,000-3,200,000.
Lot 2348-Ref. 310.836 Langematik Perpetual – platinum, set with 36 Top Wesselton, IF-VVS quality baguette cut diamonds on the bezel weighing a total of 3.1 carats. Movement Lange calibre 922.1. Estimate: HK$1,200,000-2,400,000.
Lot 2349-Ref. 320.836 Lange 1 Daymatic – platinum, set with 36 Top Wesselton, IF-VVS quality baguette cut diamonds on the bezel weighing a total of 2.5 carats. Movement Lange calibre 021.1. Estimate: HK$1,200,000-2,400,000.
Lot 2382 – F.P. Journe T10 Anniversary Tourbillon model No. 01/10-T10
This extremely rare platinum limited edition Tourbillon wristwatch was created to celebrate the 10th Anniversary of the first F.P. Journe boutique in Tokyo.
Of all F.P. Journe rarities, the T-10 Anniversary Tourbillon is probably the ultimate, so rare that it has gained an almost mythical quality. Christie’s is therefore extremely excited to be able to offer for the first time at auction an example of the platinum 10 Year Anniversary Tourbillon of which only 10 pieces exist in the world.
The present watch offers collectors of F.P. Journe and those who pursue the rarest statement timepieces an exceptional and unheard-of opportunity to acquire a T-10 Tourbillon at auction.
Lot 2383 – F.P. Journe Sonnerie Souveraine
This is an important and very rare stainless steel Grand Sonnerie, Petite Sonnerie and Minute Repeating wristwatch with power reserve and function selector.
F.P. Journe’s steel cased minute repeater with a Grande and Petite Sonnerie is a masterpiece that very few watchmakers in the world are capable of producing. In recognition of F.P. Journe’s incredible achievement, the Sonnerie Souveraine won the tremendous accolade of First Prize in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2006.
Only four pieces of this extremely exclusive model were made each year; consequently, it is very rarely offered at international auction.
Presented in superb and pristine condition, the present watch, ‘baptised’ with the original owner’s name, is accompanied by the original steel full bracelet, Certificate and full set of original accessories.
Lot 2380 – F.P. Journe Resonance Ruthenium model
This rare platinum limited edition Dual Time chronometer wristwatch features a Resonance-controlled Twin Independent Gear-Train movement and power reserve display.
This limited edition Ruthenium Chronomètre à Résonance is number 93 of only 99 pieces made between 2001 and 2003. This special series in platinum was produced at the end of the period when F.P. Journe was using brass movements. From 2004 onwards, Journe’s movements have famously been made from 18K gold.
With the tremendous and continually growing interest in François-Paul Journe’s work, collectors have focused their attention on the early production and pre-production watches with brass movements. Consequently these watches which are an important part of F.P. Journe history have become extremely sought after and very difficult to obtain.
The Chronomètre à Résonance model, so closely associated with François-Paul Journe, is particularly desirable. Furthermore, the brass movements of this edition are coated with ruthenium as are the solid 18K gold dials which are regarded as perhaps the most beautiful of all early Journe dials.
Maximilian Büsser & Friends
Lot 2370 – Maximilian Büsser & Friends Legacy Machine Perpetual model
This is a rare 18k pink gold limited edition semi-skeletonised perpetual calendar wristwatch with leap year indication.
The stunning Legacy Machine Perpetual is a horological masterpiece that in true MB&F style presents an entirely new concept for one of the most traditional watch complications, the perpetual calendar.
A collaboration between MB&F and independent watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, together they rethought the perpetual calendar complication from the ground up in order to develop a system that is both more user friendly and more reliable in operation. The result is not only highly impressive in appearance, but it also seamlessly integrates the new perpetual calendar system into MB&F’s Legacy Machine family as a creation of breathtaking three-dimensional beauty.
Furthermore, because this new system is constructed in an entirely different way to a conventional perpetual calendar mechanism, it provided the opportunity for MB&F to construct a movement with an aesthetic that was not technically possible before.
The present 18K red gold version is number 14 of a limited edition of 25 pieces, it is offered in extremely fine condition together with the full set of accessories.
Lot 2369 – Maximilian Büsser & Friends Legacy Machine No.1, “LM1” XIA HANG
The first of a very rare 18k rose gold limited edition of 12 wristwatches with independent dual time and vertical power reserve. Illustrating MB&F’s commitment to collaborative watchmaking and the creation of watches as sculptural works of art for the wrist, the LM1 Xia Hang was conceived as a ‘Performance Art’ piece and a treat for the eyes.
This special Legacy Machine 1 was made as a limited edition in collaboration between MB&F and the talented young Chinese artist Xia Hang.
Inspired by 19th century pocket watches, Legacy Machine 1 has three distinct characteristics; a unique flying balance wheel; independent dual time zones and most intriguing of all, a vertical power reserve indicator. It is with this vertical power reserve indicator, a first for watchmaking, that Xia Hang has performed his artistic alchemy: the power reserve arm has been replaced by a miniature, highly-polished articulated creature, one of Xia Hang’s so-called ‘comma men’.
These miniature masterpieces are reductions of the artist’s full-size sculptures. When the power is low, the ‘comma man’ bends his back and slumps down. Upon winding, the little figure lifts his head and straightens his back to show that the power reserve is restored.
The dual time zones where the hours and the minutes are displayed on each of the two sub dials can be set completely independently of each other with the two crowns.
The Kairos Collection
The Christie’s Hong Kong Important Watches Sale on 24 May will also feature selected pieces from The Kairos Collection – the finest collection of Patek Philippe contemporary timepieces ever to appear at auction.
Curated by a private collector with a discerning eye for excellence and the ability to acquire the rarest watches, The Kairos Collection is the fruit of years of dedicated focus and a passion for the most prestigious of provenances, with every single timepiece in absolutely pristine condition.
30 timepieces will be presented in Geneva on 9 May, 30 pieces in Hong Kong on 24 May, and 68 pieces for the finale in New York on 8 June.
Among the 30 pieces offered in Hong Kong, highlights include fabled Grande Complications, such as Ref. 5951P-012 and Ref. 5078R-001.
Lot 2412 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5951P-012
This is a rare platinum cushion-shaped Perpetual Calendar Split Seconds Chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, Day/Night, leap year indication and lacquered white dial with black Breguet numerals.
This Grande Complication wristwatch is the perfect representation of why Patek Philippe’s position as the world’s premier watch brand remains unassailable. A magnificent and highly exclusive tour-de-force of haute horology, it is the first example of a reference 5951P-012 ever to be offered at international auction.
This full-set example of the highly important platinum ‘Coussin Tortue’ perpetual calendar with split-seconds chronograph comes with a white lacquered dial with black Breguet numerals. This model was in production for only one year.
Lot 2413 – Patek Philippe 5078R-001
This 18k pink gold automatic Minute Repeating wristwatch comes with an enamel dial.
One of the most elegant and pure models of Patek Philippe’s extraordinary minute repeating wristwatches, this pink gold automatic reference 5078R-001 is also one of the rarest.
The reference 5078 is so cherished by those fortunate enough to possess it that in the 14 years since launch, only 13 examples in all metals have ever returned to the market. The present watch is probably the only the second example in pink gold ever to be presented at auction.
(1) The Champion Collection, Part Iii: The Artistry of Complications
Date: 24 May 2022
Number of lots: 73 lots
Total low estimate: HK$80,000,000 – CHF 9.7 MILLIONS – EUR 9.5 MILLIONS
Christie’s has announced the highlights of its Geneva Rare Watches Spring ’22 Auction, 09 May 2022. This live sale will offer an amazing selection of most sought-after timepieces (158 lots) manufactured by prestigious Maisons.
The Daytona Trilogy and other vintage Rolexes
Lot 38 – Rolex Daytona 18k gold Cosmograph Ref. 6269 ‘Jack of Diamonds’
Featuring diamond-set bezel and pavé diamond and sapphire-set dial, this Rolex Daytona 18k gold Cosmograph was made for the French market. It is one of only two examples known publicly bearing French importation marks and the Rolex France logo “Sté*R” for “Société Rolex”.
Rarely ever seen at auction, the ultra-luxurious diamond-set reference 6269, the so-called ‘Jack of Diamonds’ remains one of the most elusive models among all gold Cosmographs.
The exterior of the case back is stamped with the French ‘owl’ importation gold marks and both the case back and bracelet clasp are stamped with the Rolex France Logo. These special marks are only found on one other publicly known reference 6269 and a handful of other highly important Rolexes of other references, including two of the equally legendary reference 6241 “John Player Specials”. Inspired by the French ‘owl’ gold mark, reference 6269s bearing this mark, including the present watch, have been given the additional nickname “Le Hibou Grand-Duc” or “Great Horned Own” among collectors.
A remarkable model within the historic context of the Cosmograph family, the diamond-set gold reference 6269 is considered to be one of the ultimate luxury vintage Rolex chronographs. It is also an immense rarity, as it was manufactured late in the production period of the manually wound Cosmograph, which was discontinued in 1987.
In the mid-1980s it was considered extraordinary for a chronograph wristwatch to be set with diamonds but due to a select yet significant demand for such pieces, Rolex responded with the specially created reference 6269 which has its own specific design features, including a bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds and a stunning pavé-set diamond dial with sapphire hour indexes. A particularly attractive feature of the model is the 18K gold ‘riveted’ Oyster bracelet which lends a refined vintage 1960s aesthetic to this reference’s overall appearance.
Lot 129 – Rolex Paul Newman Tropical Lemon Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6264
The very rarest, most beautiful and individually significant Rolex Cosmograph Daytonas are today esteemed as important 20th century works of art.
The 18K gold reference 6264 with ‘Tropical lemon Paul Newman’ dial has the remarkable distinction of having had very few owners since new. It was the property of the original owner until around 2012.
Since that time, it has changed owners to end up within the collection of one of the most important European Rolex collectors. It has been carefully preserved and treasured by the present owner for the last 5 years. It is certainly one of the most important gold Paul Newman Daytona wristwatches in existence.
Lot 128 – Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6241 ‘Champagne Paul Newman Dial’
In the world of Rolex Daytona collecting and appreciation at the very highest level, extreme rarity is measured by small degrees. Only the scarcest references with the most stunning untouched dials and unquestioned originality make the grade for today’s highly informed and discerning international collectors. The rarity of the 18k gold reference 6241 with ‘Champagne Paul Newman’ dial is approximately on parity with the reference 6241 ‘John Player Special’.
The reference 6241 was produced for around only 3 years between 1966 and 1969 and is therefore a rare reference in its own right. Available in stainless steel, 14K and 18K gold with either exotic ‘Paul Newman’ or non-exotic dials. The famed ‘John Player Special’ is the most instantly recognizable of the former category, however, what is not widely realized is that the champagne dial model with its hugely attractive gilt printing is equally as rare as the ‘John Player Special’. Indeed, 18K gold versions with ‘Champagne Paul Newman’ dial such as the present watch exist in even smaller numbers.
This breath-taking watch has a magnificently preserved and utterly perfect dial. The champagne grené surface is flawless even under magnification, the luminous accents are superb, perfectly match the luminescence of the gold hands. The full case features well-defined proportions: indeed, it displays the all the reassuring signs of honest use over the last 54 years, the serial and reference numbers are clearly legible as are the hallmarks on the back of two lugs. The overall appeal of this superb timepiece is completed by the very rare Mark 1 bezel, highly sought-after by collectors.
Another closely related 18K gold reference 6241 with Champagne Paul Newman dial with serial number 1’757’892, only five numbers away from the present watch, was sold by Christie’s Geneva om 13 November 2013 as lot 197.
Lot 24 – Rolex Oyster Cosmograph Ref. 6263 Tropical ‘Paul Newman Panda Dial’
Fresh to the market and possibly unique with a tropical Mark 1.75 dial, the sheer beauty and untouched nature of this highly appealing reference 6263 is evident even at first glance.
The white background of the dial has remained very fresh and blemish-free, the luminous accents are intact and evenly aged, perfectly matching the luminescence of the hands. Furthermore, the dial displays a fascinating combination of unmistakable characteristics.
Firstly, over the last 53 years, the original black colour of the outer track has transformed into a seductive deep even brown hue. The change in colour from black to deep brown is understood to be caused by the reaction of the dial paint to external elements such as humidity or exposure to light.
As a result of this natural process, every ‘tropical’ dial is unique. The tropicalization of the outer ring of this watch bestows a visually striking contrast between the black of the bezel and subsidiary dials and the white of the main part of the dial.
This three-colour aesthetic immediately alerts the observer to the fact that this 6263 is something out of the ordinary. Another interesting aspect is that the subsidiary dials are considered “Big Eyes” being wider than on Mark II Paul Newman Panda dials, almost touching the outer track of the of the dial. The present watch is elevated to an even higher level due to its very rare Mark 1.75 dial of which less than 10 examples have been recorded.
Considered the ultimate vintage Cosmograph model, few watches elicit as much excitement from collectors today as a completely fresh to the market reference 6263 Paul Newman Panda, especially with a ‘tropical’ colour-change dial. The case with screw down chronograph pushers and black bezel is combined with what is generally agreed to be among the most beautiful dials ever created for a wristwatch. It is unquestionably one of the ultimate goals for the Rolex collector.
Lot 127 – Rolex Ref. 6062 ‘Stelline’, 18K Gold Automatic Triple Calendar Wristwatch with Moon Phases and Star Dial
This extremely rare reference 6062 ‘Stelline’ is a superb discovery to the world of Rolex collectors. According to experts, it has never been offered at auction before. Of the approximately 670 reference 6062 produced in yellow gold, less than 150 examples have ever appeared on the open market. Of these, few are fitted with the iconic luminous version of the ‘Star Dial’.
The dial is in superbly original condition, retaining its subtle grainé finish and original printing throughout. Furthermore, the apertures for the month and weekday indications are sharp and angular, a feature which is so easily lost when such a dial is refinished. The case is very attractive with lines well preserved, both on the upper side and also to the back which retains its original satin finish and clear hallmark. Similarly preserved between the lugs, the reference number is still fully legible.
This example of this trophy model, fresh to the market, with the rare luminous ‘star’ dial and in such untouched and original condition after 70 years presents an opportunity not to be missed.
The Kairos Collection Part I
The Christie’s Geneva Rare Watches sale on 9 May 2022 will also feature the ‘Kairos Collection’ – the finest collection of Patek Philippe contemporary timepieces ever to appear at auction.
Curated by a private distinguished collector with a discerning eye for excellence and the ability to acquire the rarest watches, The Kairos Collection is the fruit of years of dedicated focus and a passion for the most prestigious of provenances, with every single timepiece in absolutely pristine condition.
30 pieces will be presented in Geneva as Part I, followed by Hong Kong as Part II and New York as Part III. Among these 30 pieces, highlights including fabled grand complications such as a Ref. 5959R-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph in rose gold with black dial and a Ref. 5074R-001 Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar in the same livery. Here the details on selected highlights:
Lot 65 – Patek Philippe Pink Gold Split-Seconds Chronograph Limited Edition Ref. 5959R-001, Retailed by Tiffany & Co
The reference 5959R is so rare and exclusive that few people have ever seen one or are even aware of its existence. This pink gold split-seconds chronograph with black dial and Breguet numerals was only made for one year between 2016 and 2017 in a special limited series of 15 examples.
The present watch was purchased from Tiffany & Co., New York. According to experts, it is only the second example ever to be offered at international auction. Reference 5959 is one the modern Patek Philippe models which best preserves the DNA and heritage of the revered Maison Genevoise. In fact, a practically unique case in the history of Patek Philippe, it is a virtually exact replica of a vintage model, specifically the first split second chronograph wristwatch ever produced by the company (movement no. 124’824) in 1923.
The only differences are the modern signature, the co-axial button in the crown and the snap on back instead of hinged. This modern tribute to Patek Philippe heritage is a masterpiece of design and is the archetypical officier-style watch. The present version with black dial and Breguet numerals was made only in rose gold in a limited edition of 15 pieces in 2016 before being discontinued in 2017.
One of the scarcest modern models by Patek Philippe, in order to be granted the chance to purchase an example by the company, collectors had to make an application and pass an extremely strict selection process based on their horological interests, present collection, and collecting criteria.
Lot 66 – Patek Philippe Cathedral Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5074R-001, Retailed by Tiffany & Co
Beyond its exceptional appeal as a perpetual calendar cathedral repeater, reference 5074 can be considered one of the most striking stylistic exercises by Patek Philippe. It seamlessly blends the design heritage of vintage horology with more modern solutions. The final result is nothing short of breath-taking. Purchased by the present owner at the prestigious Tiffany & Co. salon in New York, the present watch is absolutely unspoiled in all of its parts, allowing the case design and enthralling black and gold dial to be fully appreciated in all their glory.
The reference 5074 is one of the most technologically complex, aesthetically appealing and hard-to-find modern Patek Philippe references. It was originally launched in yellow gold from 2001 to 2006. In 2005, the watch was offered for the first time in pink gold and available with a silvered dial or the rare black dial, as seen on the present watch.
Believed to have been made in less than 50 pieces in pink gold, the black dial variant is thought to be the rarest of the two dial colour options. Although now unavailable from Patek Philippe, the last known retail price for the pink gold version is 542,000 Swiss Francs in 2014.
The return to market ratio for the reference 5074 is extremely small, indicating how deeply collectors are attached to this model. So far, only 5 examples in pink gold came back to the secondary market.
Vintage wonders by Patek Philippe
Lot 119 – Patek Philippe reference 3448
This real treasure of reference 3448 is probably one of only three examples known publicly that are double signed for Patek Philippe’s distinguished Italian retailer, Hausmann & Co. in Rome. Official representative of all the greatest watch manufacturers in the world, the company was founded in Rome in 1794 by Ernst Hausmann and Hermann Frielingsdorf.
In the rarefied world of complicated vintage Patek Philippe masterpieces, the reference 3448 is one of the most sought after of all. Its minimal good looks and large size is perfectly suited for today’s most discerning collectors. Only 586 examples of the 3448 were ever made, of these, only three, including this watch, are known to have been double-signed for the highly prestigious Rome retailer Hausmann & Co.
The present watch is thus one of the most individual and exclusive specimens of the great classic reference 3448 to be offered at auction.
Entirely fresh to the market and still retaining a Patek Philippe service sticker on the back, it is a wonderfully honest example featuring an incredibly attractive and well preserved rich ‘velvety’ silvered dial with hard enamelled signature and date numerals that are beautifully raised, the ‘pearl’ minute divisions perfectly complementing the gold baton hour markers.
The silky finish is a feature of the very best dials made by Stern Frères, called ‘satiné opalin’. Exactly correct for the year 1970, the present dial would be one of the last of the engraved hard enamelled dials to be used on the reference. The dials changed to printed signature and calendar numerals from 1971.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
The Christie’s Geneva Rare Watches sale on 9 May 2022 will be a celebration of the 50th Anniversary of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak.
To mark the occasion, Christie’s Geneva will present a curation of these legends in their own time, among which the highly coveted and stunning platinum ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin Ref. 15202PT, presented for the first time at auction, the stainless-steel A-Series No.1’741 as well as the ‘Golden’ Tropical Mark 1 diamond index dial Ref. 5402BC, as detailed below.
Lot 151 – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin Ref. 15202PT
The highly coveted and stunning platinum Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin with smoked green sunburst dial (reference 15202PT) is appearing for the first time at auction.
Since the Royal Oak’s launch in 1972, few models of the range have been made in platinum. In 2021, Audemars Piguet introduced this very special version in solid platinum, reference 15202PT – the first Platinum Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ with a green sunburst dial. Reserved for AP Houses only, it is made in such extremely small numbers and so ultra-exclusive that demand has, unsurprisingly, vastly exceeded supply.
The Reference 15202 is one of the most popular because it is the closest modern descendant of the original Royal Oak. In an interesting twist for the 15202PT, Audemars Piguet designed the dial without the classic ‘petite tapisserie’ textured pattern but instead with a smooth surface. The green colour is named ‘smoked green’ by Audemars Piguet and is on a sunray pattern base which gives a shimmering graduated tonal effect as light plays across the surface.
Lot 147 – Audemars Piguet Stainless Steel Royal Oak A-Series No.1’741
This is one of the most iconic sport watches ever created, bestowed with a well-preserved dial as well as a stainless-steel case of strong proportions.
An iconic model of the Audemars Piguet Manufacture, the Royal Oak “A-series” can be considered as part of the most collectible luxury sport timepieces. Designed by the celebrated Gérald Genta, and later qualified the masterpiece of his career, the Royal Oak secured a discerning and informed audience and became throughout the years the emblem of the Manufacture.
The present watch is part of the first 2000 “A-series” Royal Oaks ever created, with the serial number “A 1741”, the 1’741th piece to be made. It has an original “A-series” dial, with the AP logo above the 6 o’clock index, and reads “Swiss” below 6 o’clock.
This first series was numbered from A 0001 to A 2000. Indeed, after having sold out the first 1’000 pieces, the eventual success of this model was such that Audemars Piguet took the decision to increase the production to 2’000 pieces. After the “A-series” sold out, they progressed on to the “B” series, “C” series, and so on.
Lot 149 – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Golden’ Tropical Mark 1 diamond index dial Ref. 5402BC
Fresh to the market, it is hard to imagine a Royal Oak of more conspicuous rarity. To the best of our knowledge, the present watch is the only example of a white gold reference 5402 with diamond dial that is so fully and evenly tropicalized.
The dial is quite sensational and of unparalleled beauty, having tropicalized from the original black to a shimmering golden bronze colour fading to leave an even darker outer edge. Adding a further degree of desirability, the dial type is the seldom- seen ‘Mark 1’ that was in use before 1980 on which the round diamonds are set in circular white gold settings. From around 1980 onwards, the round diamonds are set in square-shaped settings.