Phillips presents the full catalogue for The New York Watch Auction: SEVEN, showcasing nearly 180 rare and important timepieces. The highlights include a Cartier London Crash, the early F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain numbered 038/99T, and a rare F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain in Platinum with Salmon Dial and the only known Patek Philippe ref. 2499 retailed by Howes.
Following the success of the world tour, the watches will be unveiled in New York at 432 Park Avenue in the public exhibition opening on 3 December 2022. The auction will then take place over the course of two days on 10-11 December.
Among the top lots of the auction is the only known Patek Philippe ref. 2499 with a dial double signed by the American retailer, Howes, in exceptionally well-preserved condition.
The other highlights include one of only thirty-five examples of a George Daniels Anniversary Watch in yellow gold, a vintage Omega Speedmaster originally issued to NASA, and the very first example of the reloaded Urwerk UR-102 as part of TimeForArt.
The auction will also present a special chapter of 10 lots dedicated to Grand Seiko, with a unique Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon leading the collection.
Patek Philippe, Ref. 2499, Retailed by Howes, Possibly Unique, 1973
This Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 (lot 127) is a remarkably well-preserved example. It is one of the most important third series ref. 2499 to appear on the market. Making its first appearance since it was sold at public auction over two decades ago, it has resided untouched in an important American collection since then.
Signed by the American retailer Howes, it is the only Howes-signed reference 2499 known, and thus one of the rarest ref. 2499s to ever be offered. The American import mark of “HOX” is stamped on the inside caseback, as well as the “18K” hallmark on the exterior of the caseback.
Estimate: $400,000 – 800,000
George Daniels, 35th Anniversary Watch
This watch (lot 110) marks the 35th anniversary of Daniels’ invention of the Co-axial escapement. Together with Roger W. Smith, only 35 examples were made in yellow gold, and the present example with serial number 09 is offered by the original owner in exceptional original condition. With its perfectly balanced, symmetrical 40mm diameter layout, it gives a sense of order and serenity. A large gold ring engraved with black Roman numerals is further anchored by two small sub-dials indicating the date and seconds on the dial.
This watch comes with an exceptionally finished engine-turned dial featuring a fan-shaped power-reserve indication beneath 12 o’clock, and the coveted signature of ‘DANIELS’ at 6 o’clock.
The escapement within uses a single wheel Daniels Co-axial escapement perfected by Roger W. Smith, where the upper and lower wheels of Daniels’ original design were combined into one escape wheel with added teeth. The design permitted the wheel to be fabricated in a single operation and removed a potential error source.
Estimate: $400,000 – 1,000,000
Patek Philippe, Ref. 5275P, Made for the 175th Anniversary of Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe celebrated its 175th anniversary in 2014 by releasing a collection of six limited edition timepieces. Combining taste, technical mastery, and incredible rarity, they are a masterful representation of Patek Philippe’s excellence in watchmaking, with the reference 5275P being amongst the collection’s most complicated and impressive offerings.
With just 175 examples in existence, the reference 5275P is a modern chiming Jump Hour wristwatch that took four years of research and development to create.
The new caliber 32-650 HGS PS represents a remarkable high-complication mechanism, with the jump hour requiring precise power and energy management to permit its functions to advance in sync. The result is that all time indications advance by instantaneous jump intervals, rather than a constant movement.
The Patek Philippe 5275P measures 40mm in diameter and 45mm from lug to lug and is most appreciated by connoisseurs for its loud and crisp chiming mechanism that is perfectly synchronized to the time.
Consigned by the original owner and fresh-to-the market, this Patek 5275P platinum watch (lot 20) is offered complete with the original Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin and its accompanying set of accessories.
Estimate: $300,000 – 600,000
A Complete Set of Patek Philippe Ref. 5131s
Phillips is offering an entire set (lots 37-40) of Patek Philippe’s superb cloisonné enamel dial world time wristwatches, produced beginning in 2008. With reference 5131, Patek Philippe resurrected the line of Cloisonné world time pieces, which originally appeared in the 1950s and are now considered amongst the masterpieces of the brand.
Launched originally in yellow gold, the reference was produced in the three gold colors and in platinum. In 2021, the last scion of reference 5131 (the platinum version) was discontinued, officially sanctioning the end of this landmark reference. Offered as individual lots and fully complete, the set is consigned by the original owner, an important collector of Patek Philippe watches, who purchased each when they were launched.
- Patek Philippe Ref. 5131/1P-001 in platinum: $100,000 – 200,000
- Patek Philippe Ref. 5131R in pink gold: $70,000 – 140,000
- Patek Philippe Ref. 5131J in yellow gold: $60,000 – 120,000
- Patek Philippe Ref. 5131G in white gold: $70,000 – 140,000
Patek Philippe, Ref. 5070J “Special Order”, Possibly Unique, 2011
The Patek Philippe reference 5070 was the first chronograph-only wristwatch released by the firm since the 1960s when production of the iconic water-resistant reference 1463 ceased.
Introduced in 1998 at Basel, Ref. 5070 comes with an oversized 42mm case diameter and a dramatically thick, stepped bezel. The present example (lot 56) is a most probably unique, and the only one known to feature a superb and radiant brown, luminous dial and Breguet hour markers. Another extraordinary detail on the dial is the subtle monogram, ‘MSO’, presented at 6 o’clock. For Patek Philippe to permit a monogram on the dial, one’s importance to the brand must be truly significant.
Discontinued since 2009, the reference houses Patek Philippe’s manual-winding caliber CH 27-70, based upon a highly modified Lemania 2310 ébauche. Considered one of the finest chronograph movement designs of all-time, the movement is extremely well-finished – stamped with the Geneva Seal, while providing an impressive 60 hours of power reserve.
This reference 5070 is offered for the first time at auction, preserved in overall outstanding condition and offered with its Certificate of Origin and fitted box. It features a 42mm stepped case and brown dial.
Estimate: $80,000 to $200,000
URWERK, Reloaded UR-102
One of the 17 timepieces being offered in TimeForArt with all proceeds benefitting Swiss Institute, in this remarkable pièce unique, Cooper Jacoby reinterprets one of the most iconic and decisive URWERK timepieces: the UR-102 in its reloaded version.
This singular watch (lot 112) is the very first specimen of the coming URWERK UR-102 reloaded collection. It features an hour satellite wandering along a minute track displaying time in both analogue and digital formats. On the face of this unique timepiece, using thermochromic pigments, Jacoby visualizes one of the body’s most essential regulatory systems: temperature.
In eye-catching shades of blue, green, yellow, and orange, the watch face chromatically corresponds to changes in body and atmosphere temperatures, ensuring that this piece is in a state of constant flux.
Estimate: $40,000 – 80,000
Omega, Speedmaster Ref. 145.012, Originally Issued to NASA
This extraordinary Omega Speedmaster was originally issued to NASA, and only the second reference 145.012 Speedmaster ever offered at public auction with a NASA serial number inscribed.
The remarkable engravings on the caseback and central case band are only found on Speedmasters destined for one organization – NASA, making it amongst the rarest and most coveted of all vintage Speedmasters.
Furthermore, it is only 6 numbers away from a similar reference 145.012-68 worn by Michael Collins (1930 – 2021) during the storied Apollo 11 mission.
The watch (lot 169) is accompanied by two Omega extracts, one signed by James H. Ragan, who was a NASA Program Manager and an aerospace engineer. The extract confirms the watch was delivered to NASA via Norman Morris, Omega’s US distributor at the time.
Estimate: $75,000 – 150,000
Cartier, London Crash in 18 Karat Yellow Gold, circa 1970
Amongst the top lots of the December auction is a Cartier London Crash, made in 1970, offered directly from the family of the original owner. The famed Crash watch, with its amazing, dream-like curved form, is Cartier’s most radical watch design.
The watch being offered at Phillips is part of a very limited number of examples produced by Cartier London, featuring London hallmarks on the case back interior, and its original Cartier deployant buckle with similar London hallmarks also dating it to 1970 – both further stamped ‘JC’ for Jean-Jacques Cartier. A possibly unique and unusual aspect of this particular example is the “Swiss Movement” engraved to the case back, a feature not seen on other examples.
This Cartier Crash is offered for the first time ever by a descendant of the original owner, Daphne Farago. Along with her husband Peter, Daphne was an esteemed art collector and recognized philanthropist with an intelligent eye for American folk art and furniture, contemporary craft, and jewellery. Today, her extraordinary jewellery collection is housed at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, donated in 2006.
Well-preserved in outstanding condition with a sharp case and remarkably well-preserved dial, this model is hardly ever seen at auction.
F.P. Journe, Tourbillon Souverain in Platinum with Salmon Dial, circa 1999
This extremely early and rare example of Journe’s Tourbillon with remontoir d’egalité is numbered 038, dating from 1999. The case back engraving style is typical of Journe’s earliest – extremely shallow and also extremely sought-after.
This particular example even exhibits what can be considered a rare error. On the caseback, it features an engraving ‘In . Fecit’ instead of ‘Inv. Fecit’.
An extremely small minority of these early tourbillons were fitted with pink gold dials, such as the present number 038, and have highly reflective traits.
According to experts, only six hand-made pink gold dials are known, with the dial exhibiting subtle stripes that attest to its hand-finished nature. Completely original, the dial’s printed text appears as though it is floating over the dial surface. Furthermore, it exhibits the remarkable sheen and luster found in Journe’s’ earliest dials that is today so coveted by collectors. Such early Journe dials often display beautiful variations of patina, taking on colors ranging from a rosé champagne color to a shimmering copper.
The present early Tourbillon Souverain number 038 with an extraordinary pink gold dial, extremely rare even in the rare pantheon of early Journe tourbillons, was purchased by the current consignor from the original owner in 2004. Having remained in the same collection for almost two decades, it is offered with guarantee and presentation box in exemplary condition.
Patek Philippe, Ref. 3998J-013 Hieroglyph “Helmut Newton” in 18 karat yellow gold, circa 2002
This unique Patek Philippe Calatrava features an extraordinary Egyptian hieroglyph dial. The present reference 3998J first appeared at public auction in June 2014 along with two other watches with hieroglyphs, another in yellow gold model and one in titanium. Prior to this auction appearance, no other Patek Philippe timepieces with Egyptian hieroglyph markers were known and no one had ever had them translated.
The choice of hieroglyphs is one of the most unusual and unique options ever found on any Patek Philippe dial. Given the absolute rarity of this dial type, it was certainly a special order by an extremely important Patek Philippe client. Close inspection of the dials of each watch reveals they each have unique hieroglyphic combinations and layouts.
Their placement puzzled watch enthusiasts, since they don’t follow the traditional hour marker pattern, with numerals placed around the outer edge of the dial. Phillips is now proud to present the translations of these hieroglyphs for the first time. The dial of the present lot spells out “HALMUT” at 6 o’clock, and “NAUTUN” at 12 o’clock, while the titanium example translates to “SAUD” at 6 o’clock and “AL TANI” at 12 o’clock.
The late Saud bin Muhammed Al Thani, a Qatari Prince who served as Minister of Culture, Arts and Heritage, was an avid art and watch collector, and the former owner of the famed Henry Graves Supercomplication, which he purchased during the 1999 Time Museum auction in New York City.
The present yellow gold 3998 represents a surprising discovery; however, when viewed in a broader context, one understands the decision for its creation. At the time of his death, the art collection Al Thani amassed in the span of about a decade was valued at $1.5 billion and included a diverse array of art and objects. Among his many interests was a sustained passion for photography, owning works by Richard Avedon, Irving Penn, Henri Cartier-Bresson, and, of course, Helmut Newton.
In fact, Al Thani and Helmut Newton had a working relationship, with the prince paying Newton $210,000 for a three-day commission. Following this project, one can extrapolate Al Thani most likely had the wristwatch made as a gift for Newton, but never presented it.
The “Helmut Newton” 3998J is a wonderful representation of Patek Philippe’s iconic Calatrava wristwatch. Moreover, it comes with a unique 3998J-013 reference number and Extract from the Archives confirming the Egyptian hieroglyph hour markers.
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT001, circa 2022
The chapter of the auction dedicated to Grand Seiko will feature 10 exceptional lots spanning vintage and modern watches from this highly respected Japanese luxury brand. A unique, one-of-one Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon – Grand Seiko’s very first mechanical complication – will lead the group.
At its heart is a uniquely innovative movement that delivers a level of stable accuracy unprecedented for Grand Seiko by combining a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism as one unit on a single axis for the first time in history. The watch is named Kodo, the Japanese word for heartbeat. Featuring an open-work design and sapphire case back, the distinctive nature of its motion and carefully designed sound can be admired at all times by its wearer.
The concept for the unique Kodo model to be sold exclusively by Phillips was based on musō 無双, which roughly translates to “one and only” or “second to none.” A fitting term for this one-of-a-kind piece, the Kodo SLGT001 differs in several important ways compared to the global model limited to 20 pieces, reference SLGT003.
First, the multi-component case structure is made of Grand Seiko’s proprietary alloy, Brilliant Hard Titanium. This material, which is used on only the outer case and outer construction of the bezel of SLGT003, is used for both the inner and exterior case components to reduce weight and achieve a comfortable feel.
Brilliant Hard Titanium is as light as pure titanium but twice as hard as stainless steel and, therefore, highly resistant to scratches. Its color is brighter than other forms of titanium used by Grand Seiko, allowing the Zaratsu polished surfaces to stand out more prominently.
The bridges, mainplate, and many of the components of the movement are plated in a silver color to create an entirely new aesthetic for the Kodo. A yellow-gold accent for the power reserve and seconds track of the carriage inherits the aesthetic of the T0 concept movement.
The GS letters are specially engraved by hand on the Brilliant Hard Titanium clasp by Grand Seiko’s very best engravers. The watch is offered with a unique, brown-colored calf strap specially treated in the same traditional way as was used to create the high-durability material once used in the armor of the Samurai. The strap’s surface is painted by hand with Urushi lacquer in a multi-coating process that gives the strap a delicate sheen.
Accompanying the unique piece Kodo SLGT001 will be an exclusive trip to Japan to meet its creators, the Grand Seiko team, and a visit to Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi in Japan’s Iwate prefecture.
Grand Seiko will be donating proceeds from the December auction to charity. The profit from the sale of select modern timepieces will be donated to the Fairchild Tropical Botanical Garden in Miami, Florida. For the piece-unique Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon, a portion of the sale will be donated to the Children’s Heart Foundation.
Estimate on request.