Incorporating a self-winding flyback chronograph and a patented annual calendar, Patek Philippe Reference 5905 belongs to the brand’s Complications family.
Launched as a platinum model in 2015, then in rose gold in 2019, Reference 5905 is now available for first time in stainless steel. Fitted with a three-link integrated bracelet, it boasts an elegant and contemporary-styled sunburst olive green dial.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA
The dial ensures excellent legibility for the additional functions, with a central chronograph hand, a large 60-minute subdial at 6 o’clock and three day/date/month apertures arranged in an arc for instant reading of the Annual Calendar indications. There is also a discreet day/night indicator at 6 o’clock that is useful for ensuring accurate date setting.
The caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H remains faithful to the traditional column wheel for the transmission of chronograph commands. However, instead of a toothed-wheel horizontal clutch, it has a vertical disk-type clutch. This modern technical solution causes almost no wear and tear, and the central chronograph seconds hand can also be used as a permanent (running) seconds display. The patented Annual Calendar automatically takes account of 30- and 31-day months, requiring only one correction per year, on March 1st. This movement is visible through the transparent sapphire caseback.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA
The polished steel case features a sophisticated construction with a concave bezel and recessed sides. The integrated steel bracelet is inspired by that of the Aquanaut Reference 5167/1A with its contrasting finishes (polished outer links and satin-finish inner links), while subtly distinguished from it by the underside of the bracelet and the edges which are polished, in line with the case. It is equipped with a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches.
The new Reference 5905/1A-001 is joining existing References 5905P-001 in platinum with a blue dial and 5905R-001 in rose gold with brown dial.
Technical details
Movement
Caliber CH 28‑520 QA 24H
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 33 mm
Height: 7.68 mm
Parts: 402
Jewels: 37
Power reserve: min. 45 hours – max. 55 hours
Winding rotor: 21K gold central rotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Functions
Flyback Chronograph
Central chronograph hand and 60-minute counter
Annual Calendar
Day, date, month and day/night indication displayed in apertures
Dial
Olive green sunburst, gold applied hour markers
Case
Steel case
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30m
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 14.13 mm
Bracelet
Integrated Steel bracelet with fold-over clasp
Celebrating its 25th anniversary, Parmigiani Fleurier presents Tonda PF, the latest and most forward-looking collection from the Swiss Maison. This new series belong to the brand’s popular Tonda collection. Fitted with new integrated bracelets, Tonda PF watches are built around the most iconic in-house movements.
The Tonda PF series inducts a new brand signature. The PF logo appears at 12 o’clock, nestled in a vertical, oval, double-edged appliqué with extensive finishings, a harbinger of the level of care put into the collection.
The indices of each timepiece are set across two levels of the dial, while the Grain d’Orge guilloché dial pattern is the finest imaginable.
The inaugural Tonda PF collection is comprised of four models: Micro-Rotor, Chronograph, Annual Calendar with Retrograde Date and the limited edition Split Seconds Chronograph.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor with polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel
The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is a slim, pared-down, high-end two-hander with platinum micro-rotor. The Tonda PF Chronograph features an almost flush dial and an integrated high frequency chronograph movement.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph with polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel with platinum 950 hand-knurled bezel
The Tonda PF Annual Calendar with retrograde date demonstrates how discretely and astutely advanced indications can be integrated into a pared-down design.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Annual Calendar – with polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel case and platinum hand-knurled bezel
All three Tonda PF models mentioned above are available in steel with platinum hand-knurled bezel or entirely crafted in 18ct rose gold.
At the top of the range is a limited series of the Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph. To mark the 25th Anniversary of the manufacture, this timepiece is limited to 25 pieces. It features a dial, case and bracelet made of platinum 950, whose high frequency, open-worked, split seconds chronograph movement is built out of solid gold.
Tonda PF represents a mature, sartorial approach to watchmaking, where cloth is replaced by metal and weaving by dial pattern. The cutting and fitting of the shoulders and waistline take on the form of case and bracelet. These are entirely focused on silhouette, fluidity, proportions and taste.
Its specific hands are made of solid gold. Slim and long, they’re almost entirely openworked and of completely new design. The bezel, a direct heritage from the Tonda collection, features a sleek, polished part and another that’s been knurled by hand, and is crafted out of solid platinum 950 for the steel models.
Rather than using the same steel as the rest of the case and bracelet, Parmigiani Fleurier has elected to work with this highly precious metal. Not for the sake of exclusivity, but because it provides a better, shinier play with light and a more artisanal feeling once polished by hand.
The case band on all four references of the Tonda PF line is not straight, but slightly bassiné, i.e. wider near the bezel and narrower on the wrist. This provides the overall design with a sense of increased slimness. The surface is horizontal-satin-finished all around as is the upper surface of the lugs.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor
The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor measures 40 mm in diameter and owes its pure aesthetic to the uncluttered warm grey, matte guilloché dial.
It inaugurates a new version of Parmigiani Fleurier’s fundamental movement, the PF703. This ultra-slim, 3 mm thick engine is self-winding thanks to a full platinum micro-rotor. This diminutive oscillating weight allows the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor to measure a mere 7.8 mm on the wrist, ensuring comfort and elegance.
The timepiece displays hours, minutes and date. The date disc is the exact same color as the minute track’s, creating a consistent colorway.
Technical details
Movement
Caliber PF703
Automatic winding manufacture movement with platinum 950 micro-rotor
Power reserve: 48 hours
Frequency: 21,600 Vph (3 Hz)
Jewels: 29
No. of components: 176
Diameter: 30 mm
Thickness: 3 mm
Decoration: Côtes de Genève, Perlage
Oscillating weight: platinum 950 micro-rotor – Grain d’Orge guilloché
Case
Polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 7.8 mm
Crown: Ø 4.3 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Caseback: sapphire glass
Engraving on caseback: serial number& “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”
Water resistance: 100 m
Case
Polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel with platinum 950 hand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 7.8 mm
Crown: Ø 4.3 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Caseback: sapphire glass
Engraving on caseback: serial number& “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”
Water resistance: 100 m
Bracelet
Polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel bracelet
Closure: medical stainless steel folding clasp
Recommended retail price
21,000 CHF
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph
The 42 mm Tonda PF Chronograph houses the 5 Hz Caliber PF070, an integrated, high frequency, column wheel movement with small seconds and two registers. Integrating three counters on the Tonda PF Chronograph’s thinly guilloché dial demands finesse.
Parmigiani Fleurier maintains an almost flush surface by using thinly sandblasted minute track and counter outlines on the discrete blue dial.
The pushers have been fused with the profile of the Tonda PF Chronograph’s lugs. This model, along with the Tonda PF Annual Calendar, premieres a new oscillating weight in 22ct rose gold, widely open-worked with a central PF logo medallion.
Technical details
Movement
Caliber PF070
COSC-Certified Automatic Manufacture Movement with Integrated Chronograph
Power reserve: 65 hours
Frequency: 36,000Vph (5 Hz)
Jewels: 42
No. of components: 315
Diameter: 30.6 mm
Thickness: 6.95 mm
Decoration: satin-finished open worked bridges, hand-beveled edges
Oscillating weight: skeletonized, 22ct rose gold¸ polished and sand-blasted
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date and chronograph
Case
Polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 12.4 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Caseback: sapphire glass
Engraving on caseback: serial number& “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”&“36’000 Alt/h”
Water resistance: 100 m
Dial
Color: blue
Finishing: Grain d’Orge guilloché
Indices: hand-applied 18ct rose gold appliqués
Hands
Hours and minutes: 18ct rose gold skeletonized delta-shaped
Chronograph and small seconds: steel rose gold-plated
Bracelet
Polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold bracelet
Closure: eco-friendly 18ct rose gold folding clasp
Case
Polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel with platinum 950 hand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 12.4 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Caseback: sapphire glass
Engraving on caseback: serial number& “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”&“36’000 Alt/h”
Water resistance: 100 m
Hands
Hours and minutes: 18ct gold rhodium-plated skeletonized delta-shaped
Chronograph and small seconds: steel rhodium-plated
Bracelet
Polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel bracelet
Closure: Medical stainless steel folding clasp
Recommended retail price
28,000 CHF
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Annual Calendar
The 42 mm Tonda PF Annual Calendar transcends the aesthetics that had thus far been associated with Parmigiani Fleurier’s annual calendar movement.
Caliber PF339 presents a retrograde date, day, month and 122-year moonphase as visible in both hemispheres. As they come on top of the three usual time-telling hands, the very nature of the general design of the collection was at stake.
By pushing the date outwards onto the minute track and using discretely outlined counters on the warm grey guilloché dial, Parmigiani Fleurier has managed to balance the pared-down equilibrium of the collection’s design language and an elaborate layout.
Movement
Caliber PF339
Automatic Winding Manufacture Movement with Retrograde Annual Calendar and Precision Moon Phase
Power reserve: 50 hours
Frequency: 28,800 Vph (4 Hz)
Jewels: 32
No. of components: 359
Diameter: 27.1 mm
Thickness: 5.5 mm
Decoration: Côtes de Genève, beveled bridges, Perlage
Oscillating weight: skeletonized, 22ct rose gold¸ polished and sand-blasted
Model: Tonda PF Annual Calendar, Ref: PFC907-2020001-200182
Case
Polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 11.1 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Caseback: sapphire glass
Engraving on caseback: serial number& “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”
Water resistance: 100 m
Hands
Hours and minutes: 18ct rose gold skeletonized delta-shaped
Calendar and seconds: steel rose gold-plated
Bracelet
Polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold bracelet
Closure: Eco-friendly 18ct rose gold folding clasp
Recommended retail price
70,000 CHF
Model: Tonda PF Annual Calendar, Ref: PFC907-1020001-100182
Case
Polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel with platinum 950 hand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 11.1 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Case back: sapphire glass
Engraving on case back: serial number & “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”
Water resistance: 100 m
Limited to just 25 units as an homage to the maison’s 25th Anniversary, the Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph gives prominence to the best craftsmanship available at Parmigiani Fleurier. The case and bracelet of this timepiece are crafted in platinum.
This timepiece features an extremely rare, solid platinum dial to match the deep luster and specific sheen of the case and bracelet, while its sandblasted finish maintains the matte, finely textured theme of the collection.
Caliber PF361 is a new version of the manufacture’s most high-end caliber, the GPHG-awarded ChronOr. Three characteristics make this movement a truly exceptional creation.
One, its mainplate and bridges are made of solid 18ct rose gold. Two, they’re extensively open worked, satin-finished and beveled, even though the dial is a closed one. Three, it is an integrated, high frequency split seconds chronograph. It allows optimal timekeeping of two events starting at the same time, down to the 10th of a second.
Movement
Caliber PF361
Manual Winding Manufacture Movement in 18ct Rose Gold with Integrated Split Seconds Chronograph
Power reserve: 65 hours
Frequency: 36,000 Vph (5 Hz)
Jewels: 35
No. of components: 309
Diameter: 30.6 mm
Thickness: 8.45 mm
Decoration: satin-finished open worked bridges, hand-beveled edges
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, split-seconds chronograph
Case
Polished and satin-finished platinum 950withhand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 15 mm
Crown: Ø 7.2 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Caseback: sapphire glass
Engraving on caseback: serial number–“Edition limitée X/25”– “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”–“36’000 Alt/h”
Water resistance: 100 m
This stunning new watch from Carl F. Bucherer takes inspiration from a classic car owned by the Bucherer family.
The Carl F. Bucherer limited-edition Heritage BiCompax Annual Lucerne was inspired by a classic Lincoln Cosmopolitan Town Sedan originally belonged to Carl Eduard Bucherer, the son of Carl Friedrich Bucherer.
This classic car was sold in 1952 and changed hands several times over the years. In 2013, however, Jörg G. Bucherer, Carl Eduard’s son, was able to buy the family car and have it restored to its original glory. The new Heritage BiCompax Annual Lucerne watch features color details inspired by the restored automobile.
This remarkable watch, produced in an edition limited to 188 pieces, is a stunning celebration of the Bucherer family and its connection to classic cars. It also pays homage to the brand’s hometown of Lucerne.
The Carl F. Bucherer Heritage BiCompax Annual Lucerne has a 41 mm stainless steel case presented on a multi-link Milanese stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp and a quick release system.
In addition, it is delivered with a calfskin leather strap with a folding clasp, which also has a quick release system, so the look can be changed quickly and easily according to the wearer’s choice of outfit and plans for the day.
The silver-colored dial on display through the double-domed sapphire crystal features light blue subdials with chronograph minutes and small seconds counters, which are complemented by a light blue ring with a tachymeter scale surrounding the dial.
The light blue recalls the color of Jörg G. Bucherer’s lovingly restored automobile. The watch’s dial also boasts a month aperture between 4 and 5 o’clock and a bold big date window just below 12 o’clock.
The watch is equipped with a modern self-winding annual calendar chronograph movement. The CFB Caliber 1972 has a power reserve of 42 hours, and its annual calendar complication accounts for different month lengths – 30 and 31 days – so the date only has to be corrected once a year, on March 1.
Movement
Automatic, CFB 1972 caliber, diameter 30 mm, height 7.3 mm, 47 jewels, power reserve 42 hours
Functions
Chronograph: minutes and seconds counters, annual calendar, big date, hour, minute, small seconds, tachymeter scale
Case
Stainless steel, double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, water-resistant to 30 m (3 bar), diameter 41 mm, height 14.15 mm
Dial
Silver colored with light blue counters and tachymeter zone, 10 Arabic numerals (of which the 12 and 6 are chrome colored)
Strap
Stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp and quick release system, additional calfskin leather strap with quick release system and stainless steel pin-lock folding clasp
The Marine Torpilleur model, launched in 2017, is an archetype of Ulysse Nardin’s roots and history, joining the long line of illustrious Marine chronometers of the 19th century. Celebrating its 175th anniversary this year, the Swiss watch manufacture unveiled seven new models of the Marine Torpilleur during the Geneva Watch Days 2021.
These precision instruments all bear the codes of historical Marine Chronometers, such as the fluted bezel, roman numerals and the double counter. Each model, equipped with a silicium escapement, has a distinctive look and its own design, bearing the legacy and codes of the brand’s history.
Along with the Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel – the icon of the collection – these include the Panda, the Moonphase (white and blue versions), the Annual Chronograph (white and blue versions), and the Tourbillon Grand Feu Enamel black in rose gold.
The above mentioned watches are produced in limited editions and bear the signature “Chronometry since 1846” at 6o’clock on the small seconds counter and a lightened minutes circle compared to the core collection.
Set with an Alligator leather strap, they are all compatible with the R-strap, made from recycled fishing fishing nets.
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel
This new Marine Torpilleur watch has a magnificent Ulysse Nardin blue in-house enamelled dial made using the Grand Feu technique.
Thanks to the company’s collaboration with Donzé Cadrans, an independent enamelling workshop based in Le Locle, Switzerland, acquired by the manufacture in 2011, the manufacture has been able to constantly innovate and improve on this artisanal technique, which requires that over 90% of the process to be done by hand.
Ulysse Nardin masters this metier d’art, including the technique of Grand Feu enamel and cloisonné, in which a design is created by filling in a wire outline with colored enamels.
The Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel stainless steel watch with a blue Grand Feu enamel dial is limited to 175 pieces.
Technical details
References
1183-310LE-3AE-175/1A (with brown strap)
1183-310LE-3AE-175/1B (with blue strap)
Movement
Caliber UN-118 Manufacture, COSC automatic movement
Balance spring in Silicium
Escapement wheel& anchor in Diamonsil
260 components
50 jewels
Frequency: 4 Hz / oscillations 28’800 V/H
Power reserve: 60 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Case
Stainless steel polished & satin-finish case / fluted bezel
Open sapphire case back
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.73 mm
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial
New blue Grand Feu enamel dial by Donzé Cadrans
Double counters with power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and small seconds with date at 6 o’clock “Chronometry since 1846” signature on the small second counter
Rhodium-finish hands
Strap
Brown or blue alligator leather strap Compatible with R-STRAP / rubber strap / metal bracelet
Stainless steel deployant buckle
Limited edition
175 pieces
Price
10’900 CHF / 10’000 € / 11’500 $
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Panda
The Marine Torpilleur Panda model, with two small dark blue dials within the dial (one that contains the power reserve indicator and one that houses the second hand and date) is a unique design at Ulysse Nardin.
It is for the first time that the manufacture has used this design. The varnished Panda dial with rhodium-finished hands bears the insignia “Chronometry since 1846” on the bottom ring that houses the seconds hand. It uses Silicium and DIAMonSIL technology and runs thanks to the UN-118 movement.
Limited to 300 pieces only, the 42mm diameter Marine Torpilleur Panda comes with a choice of a brown or blue leather alligator strap, metal bracelet, a rubber strap or an R-Strap.
Technical details
Reference: 1183-310LE-0A-175/1A (Brown strap)
Movement
CaliberUN-118 Manufacture, COSC automatic movement
Balance spring in Silicium
Escapement wheel& anchor in Diamonsil
260 components
50 jewels
Frequency: 4 Hz / oscillations 28’800 V/H
Power reserve: 60 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Case
Stainless steel polished & satin-finish case / fluted bezel
Open sapphire case back
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.13 mm
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial
Varnished Panda dial
Double counters with power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and small seconds with date at 6 o’clock
“Chronometry since 1846” signature on the small second counter
Rhodium-finish hands
Strap
Brown or blue alligator leather strap
Compatible with R-STRAP / rubber strap / metal bracelet
Stainless steel deployant buckle
First produced from 1936 to 1980, the Ulysse Nardin Chronograph Marine Torpilleur pocket watches of that time featured the ability to read time down to 1/10th of a second.
Used during the 1936 Berlin Olympics, this precision transformed timekeeping. These chronographs, employed by automobile clubs, geodesic commissions, and scientists on expeditions, were delivered with official certification that guaranteed their extreme precision.
The 2021 version includes a varnished white or a mat blue dial, and the UN-153 Manufacture movement, which is an evolution of the earlier UN-150 movement.
The white dial is adorned with silvered, small counters and the annual calendar, which sits at 9o’clock just above the signature, verifying that Ulysse Nardin has been the leader in “Chronometry since 1846”.
An invention by Ludwig Oechslin, the annual calendar system employed in the perpetual calendar model of 1996 has been improved, with all settings adjustable both forward and backward by using the crown, making it easy to set time and date.
Each dial version of the Marine Torpilleur Annual Chronograph is limited to 300 pieces.
Technical details
References
Blue version with brown strap: 1533-320LE-3A-175/1A
Blue version with blue strap: 1533-320LE-3A-175/1B
White version with brown strap: 1533-320LE-0A-175/1A
White version with blue strap: 1533-320LE-0A-175/1B
Movement
Caliber UN-153 Manufacture, automatic movement
Escapement wheel, balance spring & anchor in Silicium
406 components
53 jewels
Frequency: 4 Hz / oscillations 28’800 V/H
Power reserve: 52 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, small second, date
Chronograph (H-M-S) & annual calendar
Case
Stainless steel polished & satin-finish case
Fluted bezel
Open sapphire case back
Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 13.66 mm
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial
Blue mat PVD dial or white varnished dial with silvered small counters Chronograph counter at 3 o’clock
Annual calendar and small second at 9 o’clock
“Chronometry since 1846” signature (B) Rhodium-finish and beige colored hands or (W) blued and red hands
Strap
Brown or blue alligator leather strap
Compatible with R-STRAP
Stainless steel deployant buckle
Ulysse Nardin has been producing watches with moonphase display since the end of the 19th century. The moonphase is a complication that is at the heart of every astronomical instrument, as the phases of the moon control the tides, hence navigation.
The Marine Torpilleur Moonphase watch comes with either a blue or white dial. Each dial version is limited to 300 pieces.
Technical details
References
Blue version with blue strap: 1193-310LE-3A-175/1A
Blue version with brown strap: 1193-310LE-3A-175/1B
White version with blue strap: 1193-310LE-0A-175/1A
White version with brown strap: 1193-310LE-0A-175/1B
Movement
CaliberUN-119 Manufacture, COSC automatic movement
Balance spring in Silicium
Escapement wheel& anchor in Diamonsil
222 components
45 jewels
Frequency: 4 Hz / oscillations 28’800 V/H
Power reserve: 60 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, moonphase
Case
Stainless steel polished & satin-finish case / fluted bezel
Open sapphire case back
Diameter: 42 mm, height: 11.13 mm
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial
Blue sun-brushed PVD dial or white varnished dial
Double counters with power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, small seconds and moon disc at 6 o’clock
The star of the night is made of a multi-layer decal that brings a lot of elegance and reflections when reveal on the Starry Sky made of blue PVD.
“Chronometry since 1846” signature on the small second counter(B) Rhodium-finish hands or (W) blued hands
Strap
Brown or blue alligator leather strap
Compatible with R-STRAP / rubber strap / metal bracelet
Stainless steel deployant buckle
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu
The Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu in rose gold has an open sapphire caseback and is completed by a fluted bezel. The black Grand Feu enamel dial by Donzé Cadrans features a power reserve display at 12o’clock. The rose gold hands tell the time.
With a diameter of 42mm and water resistant to 50 meters, this timepiece comes with a black alligator strap. It is also compatible with a rubber strap or an R-Strap. The rose gold deployable buckle makes for ease in securing this timepiece.
The calibre UN-128 Constant manufacture and automatic movement also incorporates the flying tourbillon complication. This patented UN Constant Escapement Tourbillon won the Tourbillon Watch Prize at the annual 2015 GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) award ceremony.
The Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu is a limited edition of 175 pieces.
Technical details
Reference: 1282-310LE-2AE-175/1A
Movement
Caliber UN-128 Constant Manufacture, automatic movement
Escapement wheel, balance spring & anchor in Silicium
208 components
36 jewel
Frequency: 2.5 Hz / oscillations 18’000 V/H
Power reserve: 60 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes
Flying tourbillon with Ulysse Anchor Escapement (constant)/ Blades technology
Power reserve indicator
Case
Rose gold 5N polished & satin-finish case / fluted bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.93 mm
Open sapphire case back
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial
Black Grand Feu enamel dial by DonzéCadrans
Power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock
Rose gold-colored hands
Strap
Black alligator leather strap
Compatible with R-STRAP
Rubber strap
Rose gold 5N deployant buckle
Swiss master watchmaker LAURENT FERRIER has revisited his École Annual Calendar and created a new version with an attractive blue and orange color theme.
This new creation is avaialble in a limited edition of only ten pieces, each of them numbered and engraved as “Série Atelier II”. The École- case of this timepiece is inspired by a watch made by Laurent during his studies at Watchmaking School.
The two-zone blue dial features a contrasting vertical satin-brushed centre, and circular satin-brushed hour ring. The École Annual Calendar Navy offers a more contemporary and sporting appearance compared to earlier versions. Typically associated with aviation or the navy, vibrant orange here adorns the 18K white gold hands, providing the timepiece with optimal legibility and a compelling look.
The time is indicated with LF iconic hands stamped in “Assegais” shape. A snailed small seconds dial placed at 6 o’clock gives character to the composition, while two bevelled apertures, positioned at 12 o’clock, display the day and the month. Finally, the date is indicated by a hand coated in white accompanied by vintage-inspired numerals, on the edge of the dial. The whole offers the full array of information required for daily life while remaining uncluttered and with no unnecessary adornment.
This watch is equipped with an annual calendar complication, which recognises months with 30 and 31 days, progressing automatically to the 1st of the month as appropriate. Manual adjustment is required only once a year, on the 1st of March. The day display is easily set through a pusher on the left side of the case, at 10 o’clock. All the other settings are easily controlled by a pull of the crown and rotating it accordingly, with no need for any tools.
The École case also pays tribute to period pocket watches, from the time when pioneer watchmakers began transforming them into wristwatches. The “Série Atelier II” will be the last reissue of this case, since LAURENT FERRIER has decided to realign his collection by focusing on iconic cases: the Classic, the Square and the Grand Sport. As always, the “ball”-shaped crown, the emblematic signature of the Maison, offers all the ease of a smooth and very pleasant winding.
The calibre 126.01 is at the heart of the “Série Atelier II”. This hand-wound movement incorporates a Swiss lever escapement and offers a power reserve of up to 80 hours. The power reserve indicator is placed on the movement and visible on the caseback. The long-blade ratchet, characteristic of LAURENT FERRIER manual movements, here has a polished bassiné finish, handcrafted in the brand’s own workshops.
Admirable through the sapphire crystal caseback, various finishing details of the movement represent the pinnacle of traditional fine watchmaking. Each bridge is adorned with spotless Côtes de Genève decoration, and ruthenium plating. The plate is embellished with beading while the edges and inner edges are chamfered and then polished by hand, just like the screw heads.
The École Annual Calendar Navy is presented on a hand-sewn bracelet in orange or navy Nubuck leather with a navy Alcantara lining.
The “Série Atelier II” is a limited edition of only ten pieces, available exclusively from Atelier LAURENT FERRIER on their website.
Technical details
Model: École Annual Calendar Navy
Série Atelier II – Limited edition of 10 pieces
REF: LCF025.AC.C2WO
Movement
Manual-winding LF126.01 calibre
Swiss lever escapement
Screw balance
Semi-instantaneous calendar
Semi-instantaneous counters for days and months
Clockwise and anti-clockwise calendar adjustment in the middle position
Diameter: Ø 31.60 mm (14’’’)
Thickness: 5.80 mm
Frequency: 3Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
Power reserve: 80 hours
Number of components: 235
Number of jewels: 23
Indicators
Central hours and minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock, power reserve indicator on the movement side
Date: Central hands for the date
Day disc and month disc (automatic adjustment for 30- and 31-day months) – Only one correction necessary on 1 March
Case
Stainless steel
Dimension: Ø 40 mm diameter
Thickness: 10mm (12.64 mm on sapphire)
Water resistant to 30 metres
Crown: stainless steel “Boule”-shaped
Dial
Galvanic blue vertical satin-brushed in the centre and circular satin-brushed hour ring
Vintage-inspired date numerals and grey powder-coated hour ring and “31” in light blue
Small seconds at 6 o’clock, with circular satin-brushed outer ring and fine azurage in the centre
Bevelled counters for days and months at 12 o’clock
Hands
18K/750 white gold 210 Pd
Hour and minute: orange-coated,”Assegai”-shaped
Seconds: orange-coated, “Baton” type
White-coated, ”Assegai”-shaped date
Strap
Choice of hand-sewn navy or orange Nubuck leather, navy Alcantara lining
Stainless steel pin buckle
Equipped with an elegant chronograph and annual calendar, the Heritage BiCompax Annual by Carl F. Bucherer is a highly functional and utterly precise timepiece that celebrates the design and savoir faire of the early 1950s, harmoniously merging vintage charm with “Made of Lucerne” watchmaking art.
Now, two years after the original debut in 2019, the Lucerne-based watchmaker introduces a new contrasting version of its popular Heritage BiCompax Annual. Limited to only 888 pieces, this new version from the Heritage collection has a deep-black dial with silver-colored totalizators.
The Heritage collection is an ode to Carl F. Bucherer’s rich history and its roots in Lucerne, in the heart of Switzerland. In this exclusive line of timepieces that are only manufactured in limited editions, unique design and traditional craftsmanship meet sophisticated complications and the finest materials. The launch of the Heritage Tourbillon Double Peripheral in rose gold in New York in 2018 was the kick start for the Heritage collection.
In 2019, Carl F. Bucherer introduced the Heritage BiCompax Annual watch in two versions: an elegant bi-colour variant (rose gold + stainless steel) and a sporty model in stainless steel with the “panda design.”
Again, an archival piece dating back to circa 1950 served as inspiration for the Heritage BiCompax. The elegant chronograph combines the vintage flair of the watch that inspired it with contemporary features, such as a 41 mm stainless-steel case. The new edition of course also features the BiCompax dial design of its retro predecessor: two symmetrically arranged silver-colored chronograph counters are positioned on the horizontal central axis on the deep-black galvanized dial, framed by a tachymeter scale.
Thereby, the new edition of the Heritage BiCompax reverses the color concept of the first stainless-steel model, which featured a white dial and black totalizators, also referred to as the “panda design,” making the new timepiece a so-called “reversed panda.”
The black calfskin leather strap with silver-colored stitching perfectly complements the design of the dial. The new timepiece is also available on a sporty and comfortable rubber strap. The new Heritage BiCompax Annual is again limited to 888 pieces, as a nod to Carl F. Bucherer’s founding year of 1888.
The Heritage BiCompax Annual is powered by an ultramodern automatic movement (The CFB 1972 caliber) with 42 hours of power reserve. The new version also features an annual calendar and a large date display that takes the different month lengths – 28, 30, and 31 days – into account, which means it would only need to be corrected during a leap year.
Movement
Automatic, CFB 1972 caliber, diameter 30 mm, height 7.3 mm, 47 jewels, power reserve 42 hours
Functions
Chronograph: minutes and seconds counters
Annual calendar with big date
Hour, minute, small seconds
Tachymeter scale
Case
Stainless steel case
Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 14.15 mm
Double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm)
Dial
Black with silver-colored counters
Strap
Calfskin leather strap or rubber strap with stainless-steel folding pin buckle
Parmigiani Fleurier expands its popular Tonda collection by adding a sportier, everyday watch model, the new Tonda GT line.
Parmigiani Fleurier’s dress watches have long been revered among collectors for their elegance and fine craftsmanship, the result of its in-house manufacturing prowess combined with Michel Parmigiani’s master watchmaking talent and commitment to excellence. This commitment continues in this new introduction, a line designed to appeal to the modern gentleman looking for a watch he can wear on every occasion.
The new Tonda GT Line offers three distinct sporty, yet elegant timepieces in polished and satin-finished stainless steel or 18-ct rose gold, embodying Parmigiani’s years of expertise and design ethos following golden ratio parameters.
The case shape is inspired by the Tonda Chronor watch, which was awarded the Chronograph Watch Prize from the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2017. Parmigiani Fleurier worked with watch designer, Dino Modolo, to reinterpret its design codes, resulting in a reimagined case with updated lugs and an integrated bracelet ergonomically designed for ultimate comfort.
Its fluted bezel recalls another Parmigiani Fleurier icon- the Toric collection- and the dials are finished with traditional “cloutriangulaire” guilloché. All watches are available on a polished and satin-finished bracelet or on a rubber strap with a motif that recalls the finishing on the dial.
The Tondagraph GT is powered by the PF043 automatic caliber and combines two useful complications- an annual calendar and a chronograph.
The dial displays a wealth of information and remains legible: it has delta-shaped hands with black luminescent coating indicating hours and minutes, a small second, two subdials for the chronograph function, and a big date aperture at 12 o’clock. To draw attention to the annual calendar function, the date and month are displayed in a vibrant orange color.
This impressive watch is water resistant to 100m, has a screw-down crown, a 45-hour power reserve, and is finely finished with Côtes de Genève stripes visible through the open caseback. The Tondagraph GT is limited to 200 pieces.
Two additional models will accompany this new launch, the Tonda GT Black and the Tonda GT Rose Gold Blue. The beauty of the guilloche decoration shines through on these dials, which have a big date aperture at 12 o’clock and a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock.
They are powered by the PF044 automatic movement, which is finely finished, has a power reserve of 45 hours, and is water resistant to 100m via a screw-down crown.
The 18-ct rose-gold model is particularly stunning when paired with its sporty blue rubber strap matching the dial and the Tonda GT Steel easily transforms into a sportier watch when paired with its black rubber strap.
The Tonda GT Rose Gold Blue is limited to 150 pieces, while the steel model is limited to 250 pieces.
After the success of the prototype’s sale at the Only Watch auction, F.P.Journe presents the final version: Astronomic Souveraine. It is a grand complication watch in a steel case, housing 18 complications including tourbillon and minute repeater. This exceptional creation was unveiled on 14 November in Tokyo at first flagship boutique of the brand.
The Astronomic Blue, the prototype of this grand complication, developed specifically for Only Watch 2019 Charity auction, was sold for the amount of CHF 1’800’000.-, a new world record for an F.P.Journe watch.
The 18 carat rose Gold movement of the Astronomic Souveraine is totally novel and very finely decorated. The white Gold dial, whose sub-dials are embellished with clou de Paris decoration, and the moon phases, with a hyper realistic moon that was traced from a NASA photograph.
At 3, there is the mean time (or civil time) dial, with a blue hand indicating a second time zone. At 9, there is the sidereal time dial, which allows the observation of the stars. Next to it, the mean time seconds are shown on a disc. Between the two are the central minutes and the power reserve indication, which remains optimal up to 40 h. Above all this is a blue aperture showing the sunrise and sunset. Here, metal shutters lengthen or shorten the days.
On the reverse there is the equation of time and a full annual calendar encircled by the signs of the zodiac. It is on this side that the dance of the tourbillon may be admired. In all, this watch, which also strikes the hours, the quarters and the minutes, possesses 18 functions and complications.
It is made up of 758 components, in addition to the case. However, the case is no larger than 44 mm in diameter and 13.80 mm thick. Only a very few pieces of the Astronomic Souveraine will be produced each year.
Technical Specifications
Movement
Calibre 1619
Manual winding (34 turns of crown)
In 18K rose Gold
Power reserve: 40h
Dimensions of the Movement
Overall diameter: 37.00mm
Cased-up diameter: 36.40mm
Height movement: 10.75mm
Height of winding stem: 4.59mm
Diameter of stem thread: S1.20mm
Main Characteristics
Tourbillon with remontoir d’égalité
Minute repeater
Sidereal hours and minutes
2nd time zone
Moon phases
Annual calendar
Equation of time
Sunrise and sunset
Natural dead-beat second
All settings via the crown
Indications
Front: Hours and 2nd time zone at 3
Minutes in the centre
Sunrise and sunset at 12
Sidereal hours and minutes at 9
Power reserve at 6
Moon phases at 5
Second on disc at 7
Back
Equation of time in the center
Annual calendar at 10
Escapement
15 teeth escape wheel
90° Anchor fork
Decorations
Circular waves on bridges
Partly circular grained baseplate
Polished screw heads and chamfered slots
Pegs with polished rounded ends
Case
Steel
Diameter: 44.00mm
Total height: 13.80mm
Number of parts
Movement without dial: 758
Cased on leather strap: 817
Jewels: 68
To support the Only Watch 2019 charity auction, F.P.Journe donates a unique prototype of its proposed Astronomic grand complication watch. The unique movement, the unique blue chrome dial and its unique case in Tantalum makes the F.P.Journe Astronomic Blue a masterpiece horological creation.
This grand complication watch incorporates 18 complications including tourbillon, minute repeater, equation of time, sidereal time, sunrise and sunset, moon phases, 2nd time-zone and annual calendar.
Technical details
Case
Case in Tantalum, unique piece developed exclusively for Only Watch
Diameter: 44 mm / Thickness: 13.75 mm
Dial
Blue chrome dial, unique example developed exclusively for Only Watch, with Silver parts.
Indications
Front side: Hours, minutes and seconds of average time, 2nd time zone, Hours and minutes of sidereal time, Sunrise and sunset, Day and night indication, Moon phases and Power reserve
Back side: Annual calendar and Equation of time
Movement
Exclusive manual winding prototype calibre 1619 in 18K rose gold.
Double barrel, minute repeater, tourbillon with « Remontoir d’égalité » performing a complete rotation in 60 seconds, dead-beat second.
Functions and complications: 18
The new MONTBLANC BOHÈME FULL CALENDAR comes in a 36 mm steel case and features a full calendar complication in a pure and elegant aesthetic. The indications include the month in an aperture at 12 o’clock, the date around the outside of the dial and a moon phase at 6 o’clock.
The sophisticated dial is highly legible thanks to a precise minute track with red gold-colored dots for the minutes as well as for the date. Completing the overall design, the timepiece is equipped with a brand-new blue grené calf strap.
Technical details
Model: Bohème Full Calendar
Ident. 119938
Movement
Calibre MB 29.17
Type of movement: Mechanical movement with automatic winding
Number of Jewels: 29 jewels
Power Reserve: Approx. 42 hours
Balance: Flat hoop
Frequency: 28.800 A/h (4 Hz)
Hairspring: Flat
Displays
Hours and minutes from the centre
Full calendar with date from the centre, month at 12 o’clock and
moonphase at 6 o’clock
Habillage
Case
Stainless steel, polished case
Crystal: Scratch-resistant, domed sapphire crystal with antireflective coating
Back: Stainless steel with inset pane of sapphire crystal
Dimensions -Diameter = 36 mm; Height = 10.74 mm
Watertightness: 3 bar (30 m)
Crown: Stainless steel with the Montblanc emblem
Dial
Silvery-white guilloché dial set with 8 Top Wesselton diamonds (~0.046 ct) with red gold-coated Arabic numerals and minuterie, filet sauté, 18 K red gold-coated leaf hour- and minute- hands, stainless steel baton date-hand
Wristband
Blue “grainé” calf-skin strap with stainless steel pin buckle
This innovative mechanical timepiece from Swiss luxury watch brand KENNSEN incorporates two popular horological complications: Chronograph and Annual Calendar.
Despite the complexity involved in such complication watches, Kennsen’s Annual Calendar Chronograph is simple to use, thanks to an innovative mechanism that overcomes the difficulty of building an entirely new complication in the confines of the chronograph’s reduced space.
Designed in-house, Kennsen’s Annual Calendar mechanism drives a date indicator at 3 o’clock, a month indicator, which is in the same plane as the date and on the left of the central axis, and a legible but unobtrusive Day/Night display positioned in the minute counter subdial to aid adjustment.
For this timepiece, KENNSEN has developed a co-axial calendar system in which the month wheel and display are co-axial to a special pipe built around the central axis of the watch. The month wheel itself then acts as an axis around which the co-axial year wheel turns. The year wheel governs the system though a unique internal tooth.
Protected by two patents, this new design concept ensures simplicity, low part count, svelte dimensions and very efficient performance. The svelte dimensions (30.0mm in diameter and 1.3mm in height) ensure that the watch is comfortable to wear. The few moving parts ensure efficient performance. The calendar is easily adjustable by the crown and ensures ease of use.
Kennsen Annual Calendar Chronograph is equipped with the Calibre KV775C, the in-house movement based on the iconic Valjoux 7750 self-winding movement.
The movement is adjusted to a tolerance up to -2 to +6 seconds per day and in five positions. The movement is finely decorated with Côtes-de-Genève and snailing on the plates. Movement screws have been replaced to complement these finishes. The matt and anthracite finishing of the rotor adds an interesting counterpoint to the plates.
The Day/Night display complication shows whether the watch is synchronised to a.m. (white) or p.m. (dark). It insures that the watch is set correctly, thus avoiding the irritation of a date change at noon. Referencing the Day/Night display before a manual date adjustment can also prevent damage to the watch as manual date adjustments should not be undertaken during the dark night hours when the gears are in mesh.
Designed in house by Kennsen and manufactured in Switzerland by Victorinox Company, the watch case measures 42mm diameter; 49mm across the lugs; 13.4mm height. Crafted from superior quality of stainless steel (316L1.4435 grade), the watch case ensures ease of use while wrist-friendly lugs provide a comfortable and secure fit. The case has a water-resistance of 50 metres / 165 feet.
The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal in the case-back gives a view of the movement and rotor. Each watch is individually numbered. The pusher sleeves are a rarely seen touch and are horizontally brushed by hand.
While the front and back bezels are hand-polished, a horizontal brushing (also by hand) has been given to the case-middle. The case chamfers provide a sporty yet elegant feel.
Manufactured in Porrentruy in Switzerland, the large and well proportioned dials come in either black or Kennsen Palladium shades. The special galvanic treatment gives the dials their depth and changing light conditions bring different nuances to the dials.
The indices are applied, and the dial itself has three levels with circular grain and matt finishing. The outer ring has a telemeter scale in miles and kilometres. The useful Day/Night display is positioned inside the minute counter. The date is at 3 o’clock and the month to the left of the main axis.
The Kennsen Annual Calendar Chronograph is fitted with a custom made and top grade alligator leather strap hand-crafted by Hirsch. Each Kennsen watch is delivered in a hand-made leather wallet.
Technical details
Model: Kennsen Annual Calendar Chronograph
Functions
Chronograph function with hours, minutes, seconds
Timekeeping with hours, minutes, small seconds
Annual Calendar with date and month displays
Telemeter in miles and kilometres
Crown adjustable
Hacking small seconds
Day/Night display
Movement
Calibre KV775C Automatic
48 hr power reserve
Frequency: 28’800 vph (4 Hz)
25 Jewels
Case
Three-part hand-polished and brushed stainless steel
Diameter: 42.0 mm
Height: 13.4mm
Lugs: 49.0 mm
Rectangular pushers with hand-brushed sleeves
Front glass: Domed, anti-reflective, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
Case back: Flat scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 5 ATM
Dial
Three level dial with galvanic plating and matt finishing
Raised, sun-ray bushed telemeter scale
Sunk, circular brushed sub-dials
Applied indices
Strap
Top grade Alligator
20 mm at the lugs, 18 mm at the buckle
Hands
Galvanic Rhodium treatment
Black polished
Radius cut
Laurent Ferrier presents new blue dial version of their Galet Annual Calendar School Piece. This timepiece, available in red gold or stainless steel, features a 40mm case and houses a manual wound movement.
Its blue galvanic dial with vertical satin brushed finish features an inner hour circle for time display, vintage-inspired Arabic numerals painted in white 1-30 and in red for 31 representing dates, small seconds dial at 6 o´clock, with a circular satin brushed outer circle and snailed in the center, and Bevelled day and month apertures below 12’o clock.
Through the sapphire crystal case back, the movement can be admired. The power reserve indicator is also placed on the back side. The watch comes fitted with a blue alligator leather strap featuring Alcantara lining and pin buckle or a double blade folding clasp.
Technical details
Movement
• Manual winding calibre LF126.01.
• Swiss lever escapement.
• Balance Screw.
• Movement diameter: 31.60 mm (14´´´).
• Thickness: 5.80 mm.
• Frequency: 3Hz (21´600 /H).
• Power reserve: 80 hours.
• Number of components: 235.
• Number of jewels: 23.
Indications
Hours and Minutes in the centre
Small seconds at 6 o´clock
Power reserve area indicator on the back side
Annual calendar:
– Calendar central hand.
– Day-disc and Month-disc (Automatic correction for months with 30 or 31 days. One correction on March 1st)
– Semi-instantaneous calendar. Days and month semi-instantaneous apertures.
Correctors
Crown for winding, time-setting, calendar central hand and months. Push button at 10 o´clock for days of the week.
Correction forward / backward of the calendar on intermediate position
Case
• 18K/750 5N red gold or stainless steel
• Size: 40 mm diameter
• Thickness: 10.10 mm or 12.80 mm including the sapphire crystal
• Domed sapphire crystals, front and back
• Water resistant to 30 meters
• “Ball-shaped” crown in 18K/750 5N red gold or stainless steel
Dial
• Blue Galvanic
• Hours circle powdered silver
• Vintage-inspired numerals painted in white 1-30 and in red for 31
• Vertical satin brushed finish
• Small second at 6 o´clock, with a circular satin brushed outer circle and snailed in the center
• Bevelled day and month apertures.
• LF logo powdered silver
Hands
• 18K/750 210Pd white gold
• Hours and minutes: “Assegai-shaped”, painted in white
• Seconds: baton-type with counterweight, painted in white
• Date: painted in red
Strap
Blue alligator leather Alcantara lining.
Pin buckle or a double blade folding clasp.
Launched in platinum in 2015, Ref. 5905 unites two Patek Philippe complications beloved of connoisseurs: a self-winding flyback chronograph and a patented Annual Calendar. The manufacture is now enriching its collection with a new version of this model in a rose gold case with a brown sunburst dial shading gently to black at the periphery.
The dial’s design combines the technical look of an instrument for measuring short times with the timeless elegance of a Patek Philippe.
It features three-face Dauphine hour and minute hands with a luminescent coating, rose-gold applied hour-markers, and luminous dots marking the five-minute points.
The sandblasted sweep seconds-hand counts the seconds for the chronograph, while the large subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock totalizes the minutes from 1 to 60. The three apertures for the day, the date and the month are arranged along an arc with a day/ night indicator.
Within this timepiece beats the caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H selfwinding movement, comprising 402 parts.
The Annual Calendar, based on the Patek Philippe patent of 1996, automatically takes account of months of 30 and 31 days and requires correction only once a year, on March 1st.
The chronograph remains true to the traditional column wheel for transmission of the start, stop and reset commands. But instead of the horizontal wheel clutch it uses a vertical disk clutch. Since this solution is virtually friction-free, the center chronograph hand can also serve as a permanently running seconds hand without affecting the rate accuracy of the movement. That is why Patek Philippe decided not to include the usual small seconds dial in its self-winding chronograph models.
The new Ref. 5905R-001 takes its place alongside the existing models in platinum with blue or black dials.
Technical details
Dial
Brown sunburst, black gradated, gold applied hour markers
Rose gold three-face Dauphine hands with luminescent coating
Case
Rose gold
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 14.03 mm
Water-resistant to 30 m
Sapphire crystal case back
Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny black
Prong buckle
Movement
Caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H
Self-winding
Flyback chronograph
Central chronograph hand
60-minute counter
Annual Calendar
Day, date, month, day/night indication displayed in apertures
Diameter: 33 mm
Height: 7.68 mm
Number of parts: 402
Winding rotor: central rotor in 21K gold
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 45 hours – max. 55 hours
Displays
Hour hand
Minute hand
Chronograph hand (sweep seconds)
Subsidiary dial: 60-minute counter
Apertures: Day of the week; Date; Month and Day/night indication
Pushers
Chronograph start and stop
Chronograph hand reset and flyback
Correctors
Day-of-week correction
Date correction
Month correction
In 2010, Patek Philippe united sporting spirit and technical sophistication in a Nautilus watch for men endowed with an Annual Calendar, a moon-phase display and a 24-hour indicator. This Ref. 5726A in steel on a leather strap has since been joined by others with a steel bracelet.
Now the manufacture is reinterpreting that steel-bracelet version by fitting it with an elegant blue dial (the color on the original Nautilus model of 1976). The horizontal embossing and the subtle shading from blue to black at the dial’s periphery create a powerful but refined decor that complements the sheen of the steel.
The hours and minutes are indicated with applied white-gold hour markers and hands highlighted with a luminescent coating, accompanied by a slender sweep seconds hand.
This elegantly sporty exterior, water-resistant to 120 m, conceals a caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/303 self-winding movement comprising 347 parts.
The Annual Calendar, patented by Patek Philippe in 1996, displays the day and the month in two in-line apertures at 12 o’clock and the date in an aperture at 6 o’clock.
Thanks to this ingenious mechanism, which takes account of months of 30 and 31 days, the date requires correction only once a year, on March 1st. The 24-hour indicator in the lower half of the dial simplifies calendar adjustments. This subsidiary dial also houses the extremely precise moon-phase display, which requires correction by one day every 122 years.
Like the case and bezel, the steel bracelet with fold-over clasp boasts a pronounced contrast between polished and satin finishes.’
The new Ref. 5726/1A-014 complements the version with leather strap and black gradient dial. The previous models with a steel bracelet and a white or a black gradient dial are being discontinued.
Technical details
Movement
Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/303
Self-winding
Annual Calendar
Day, date, month displayed in apertures
Moon phases
24-hour indication
Sweep seconds
Diameter: 33.3 mm
Height: 5.78 mm
Number of parts: 347
Winding rotor: central rotor in 21K gold
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 35 hours – max. 45 hours
Displays
Hour hand
Minute hand
Second hand
Subsidiary dial: 24-hour indication
Apertures: Day of the week, Date, Month and Moon phases
Correctors
Day-of-week correction
Date correction
Month correction
Moon-phase correction
Dial
Blue, black gradated, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating
White gold baton-style hands with luminescent coating
Case
Steel
Diameter (10 – 4 o’clock): 40.5 mm
Height: 11.3 mm
Water-resistant to 120 m
Screw-down crown
Sapphire crystal case back
Bracelet
Steel
Nautilus fold-over clasp
Previous Models
5726A-001 (2010)
5726/1A-001(2012): Discontinued in 2019
5726/1A-010(2012): Discontinued in 2019
In 2011 Patek Philippe endowed its patented Annual Calendar mechanism with a regulator style display featuring a sweep minute-hand and subsidiary dials for the hours and seconds at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock respectively. The design paid tribute to the precision clocks that were long used to display the exact time in watchmaking workshops and astronomical observatories. It was launched as Ref. 5235, in a white-gold case framing a two-tone silvery gray dial with a vertical satin finish.
Now the manufacture has given a new face to its Annual Calendar Regulator by presenting it in rose gold, its two-tone dial in graphite and ebony-black with a vertical satin finish and white transfer-printed indications.
This highly original design, enriched by the rose-gold baton-style hands, is again reminiscent of the old regulators. It accentuates its elegant technical air with three railway-track scales, one each for the main dial and the subsidiary hour and seconds dials. The Annual Calendar displays the day, the month and the date in three generous apertures, automatically taking account of months of 30 and 31 days. It therefore requires correction only once a year, on March 1st.
The caliber 31-260 REG QA self-winding movement, developed for this model, is notable for its frequency of 23,040 semi-oscillations per hour (3.2 Hz) and its high-tech regulator incorporating a Pulsomax® escapement and a Spiromax® balance spring in Silinvar® – both developed by the “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” department.
The minirotor in 22K gold adorned with circular Geneva striping, together with all the other finely decorated parts, may be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back.
The only watch in the Patek Philippe collection featuring a regulator style display, the new Ref. 5235/50R-001 in rose gold is worn on a hand-stitched alligator strap with large square scales, whose matte black color echoes that of the dial. It replaces the previous white-gold model.
Technical details
Dial
Two-tone graphite and ebony black, vertical satin finish, white transfer-printed
White lacquered white gold baton-style hands
Case
Rose gold
Diameter: 40.5 mm
Height: 10 mm
Water-resistant to 30 m
Sapphire crystal case back
Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, matte black
Prong buckle
Movement
Caliber 31-260 REG QA
Self-winding
Regulator-style display: hour and seconds subdials, sweep minutes
Annual Calendar
Day, date, month displayed in apertures
Diameter: 33 mm
Height: 5.08 mm
Number of parts: 313
Winding rotor: off-center minirotor in 22K gold
Frequency: 23,040 semi-oscillations/hour (3.2 Hz)
Escapement: Pulsomax® with lever and escape wheel in Silinvar®
Power reserve: min. 38 hours – max. 48 hours
Displays
Large central minute hand
Subsidiary dials: Small hour hand and Small seconds
Apertures: Day of the week, Date and Month
Correctors
Day-of-week correction
Date correction
Month correction
Previous Models
5235G-001(2011): Discontinued in 2019
Patek Philippe introduces a new function for calendar watches: The weekly calendar is a semi-integrated mechanism that in addition to the day of the week and the date also displays the week number. Further, the Ref. 5212A-001 Calatrava Weekly Calendar is endowed with a totally new self-winding base caliber; it is also the only steel Calatrava in the current Patek Philippe collection.
Patek Philippe has developed a broad spectrum of calendar functions, from the simple aperture date to the extremely complex secular perpetual calendar that is preprogrammed into the 28th century. The patented Annual Calendar, launched in 1996, triggered a small revolution as a full calendar that only needs to be corrected once a year on March 1.
In 2013, the Ref. 5200 Gondolo “8 Days, Day & Date Indication” was welcomed as a fascinating innovation with its instantaneous day-of-week and date display. Now, Patek Philippe is taking a step forward by expanding its collection of “useful complications” with the addition of a weekly calendar that displays the current week number.
The new Ref. 5212A-001 Calatrava Weekly Calendar expresses its uniqueness with a silvery opaline dial and the unusual layout with five hands from the center – quite a rare configuration. The hours and minutes are indicated with elegant Dauphine hands in blackened white gold. They feature two lapped facets, a perfect match for the applied baton indexes in blackened white gold with four lapped facets each. A slender counterbalanced hand tracks the seconds.
The day of the week is displayed by a hammer-shaped hand with a red hammer head on a circular scale in the middle of the dial. A second hand of the same design delivers week number and month readings on two concentric scales at the periphery of the dial. These calendar indications are complemented by an aperture date at 3 o’clock.
Another special feature: The typography created explicitly for this watch is based on the handwriting of one of the manufacture’s designers; its letters and numbers are absolutely unique. Carefully printed in black, they add very personal and poetic notes to the dial of the Ref. 5212, recalling an epoch in the not too distant past when notes were still written by hand in paper diaries.
With a diameter of 40 mm and a thickness of 11.18 mm, the stainless steel Calatrava case – a rarity at Patek Philippe – also stands out on account of the finesse of the bezel that extends over the two-tiered, gently curved strap lugs. The case is cold-formed in the manufacture’s ateliers with high-tonnage presses and then meticulously hand-polished by experienced artisans – a highly complex undertaking given the many sharp edges and angles.
Its aesthetic appeal is inspired by the Ref. 2512, a one-of-a-kind piece made in 1955 and held in safekeeping by the Patek Philippe Museum; in 2012, at a Sotheby’s auction, it fetched a record price of 962,000 dollars. This kinship is emphasized by the reference number of the new Calatrava Weekly Calendar that consists of the same numerals in a different order. The vintage aspect is amplified by a box-type sapphire-crystal glass with a slightly cambered profile. The stainless steel snap back has a sapphire-crystal inset that allows the movement to be observed at work.
To display the day of the week and the number of the current week, Patek Philippe developed a totally new semi-integrated mechanism with a height of 1.52 mm, containing 92 additional parts. Thanks to a special plate developed and produced for this specific mechanism, the movement remains very svelte.
A 7-point star on the hour wheel in the center of the movement controls the day-of-week display. Via a lever, a second 7-point star with an extended Sunday tip drives the 53-tooth week wheel. The calendar displays advance semi-instantaneously in discrete steps to avoid energy consumption peaks. Corrections of the day-of-week and week-number displays are performed with two push pieces recessed in the case flank at 8 and 10 o’clock. The date can be corrected with the crown pulled halfway out. Thanks to a fail-safe concept, the user can perform such corrections at any time of day or night without risking damage to the movement. The manufacture places great emphasis on convenience and user-friendliness.
Pursuant to the international ISO 8610 standard, Patek Philippe chose Monday as the first day of the week rather than Sunday, which is commonplace in some countries. The first week of the year is the week that includes the 4th of January. The 53-graduation scale considers years with an extra week. This is the case every 5 to 6 years. The next occurrence falls in 2020.
The weekly calendar mechanism is not the only special feature of the Ref. 5212. Patek Philippe also endowed this watch model with a totally new movement based on the self-winding caliber 324. It is the outcome of several years of development work. The caliber designation reflects its diameter of 26.6 mm and height of 3.3 mm. The new movement sports several innovations and optimizations that improve its performance and dependability. The first innovation concerns the fourth-wheel pinion. To prevent the seconds hand from vibrating and to reduce friction, the manufacture’s engineers decided against the habitual third wheel with a friction spring to eliminate the need for precision adjustments. They replaced it with an innovative system based on an anti-backlash wheel.
This patented component is made of a nickel-phosphorous alloy with the LIGA process (lithography, electroplating, molding) and then completed with a gold-copper-iridium coating. It features an avant-garde geometry with long bent teeth, each with a tiny integrated 22-micron leaf spring that engages with the leaves of the fourth-wheel pinion to suppress vibrations of the seconds hand without any prior adjustment work. Friction is further reduced by suspending the pivots of the seconds-hand arbor between bearing jewels. The stop seconds (balance stop) mechanism provides further optimization: it becomes effective when the crown is pulled into the hand-setting position. Thanks to this device, the user can set the time with one-second accuracy. When the crown is pushed home, the mechanism kick-starts the balance, so to speak, to set it in motion again.
The self-winding mechanism was also completely reworked and refined. The most prominent change involves the shape of the winding rotor that now has two rounded recesses on both sides of its axis of rotation. This is an unmistakable characteristic feature of the new caliber 26-
330. Further substantial modifications improved the efficiency and longevity of the unidirectional winding mechanism.
The first optimization of the automatic winder with the centrifugal mass replaces the traditional uncoupling yoke with a pinned spring by introducing a new patented clutch wheel that is manufactured with a highly complex process. It drives the mainspring barrel in one direction and uncouples it in the other direction. The second optimization consists of a reduction wheel that is uncoupled from the automatic winder when the watch is manually wound. When parts that generate friction and need to be tweaked are replaced with high-tech components, this improves the performance and dependability of the movement.
With its 304 parts (including those for the weekly calendar mechanism), the all-new caliber 26-330 S C J SE is a perfect manifestation of Patek Philippe’s tradition of innovation. The sapphire-crystal case back of the new Ref. 5212A-001 Calatrava Weekly Calendar reveals the refined architecture and painstaking finissage of the movement as prescribed by the Patek Philippe Seal.
Technical details
Model: Ref. 5212A-001 Calatrava Weekly Calendar
Movement
Calibre 26-330 S C J SE
Self-winding mechanical movement, sweep seconds, date, day of the week and week number
Diameter: 26.6 mm
Height: 4.82 mm (base movement 3.30 mm, partially integrated weekly calendar mechanism 1.52 mm)
Number of parts: 304, of which 212 for the base movement and 92 for the weekly calendar mechanism
Number of jewels: 50
Power reserve: Min. 35 hours, max. 45 hours
Winding rotor: Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax®
Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)
Balance spring stud: Adjustable
Displays
With hands:
• Center hours, minutes, and seconds
• Center day of the week
• Center week number and respective month
With numerals disk:
• Aperture date at 3 o’clock
Functions 3-position crown:
• Pushed home: manual winding
• Pulled halfway out: date correction
• Pulled all the way out: handsetting with stop seconds
Correctors:
• Day of week correction at 8 o’clock
• Week number correction at 10 o’clock
Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal
Case
Stainless steel
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 meters
Case dimensions: Diameter: 40 mm
Height (crystal to display back): 10.79 mm
Height (crystal to lugs): 11.18 mm
Width between lugs: 20 mm
Dial
Silvery opaline with black printed script characters
• Applied baton indexes in 18K white gold, blackened, with 4 lapped facets
• Dauphine hands for hours and minutes, 18K white gold, blackened, with 2 lapped facets
• Counterbalanced seconds hand, rhodiumed Pfinodal
• Day-of-week display, hammer shaped, rhodiumed Pfinodal, with red lacquered hammer head
• Week number/month hands, hammer shaped, rhodiumed Pfinodal, with red lacquered hammer head
Bracelet
Calfskin, hand-stitched, bright brown, with stainless steel prong buckle
In 2018, the Galet Annual Calendar Montre Ecole earned the award of GPHG in the Men’s Complication category. This distinction gave Laurent Ferrier the opportunity to offer a new line to this award-winner caliber. For this edition, Laurent Ferrier was inspired by the Black and White contrast and purity of the Chess Board. Two opaline dials complement the current collection.
Entirely designed in-house, the Galet Annual Calendar School Piece Opaline Black & White embodies all the values and spirit, Laurent Ferrier infuses in all his creations.
These timepieces were developed with the aim of ensuring extremely smooth handling, while also ensuring visual balance, readability and performance in all circumstances – all values dear to Laurent Ferrier. With its date and month fast-adjustment by simply turning the crown forward and backward, these timepieces offer a great experience to the wearer.
For its annual calendar complication, Laurent Ferrier decided to pay a tribute to its first manual winding movement: The tourbillon double hairspring. The new caliber features a long “blade” type click ratchet which became a distinctive signature. For the first time, Laurent Ferrier will introduce a “desert sand” 18K yellow gold version.
The Galet Annual Calendar School Piece Opalin Black & White displays the day of the week, the date and the month under consideration of months with 30 and 31 days, so the only adjustment required is once a year : on March the 1st. The date is clearly indicated by a central hand and the days of the week and the months in two beveled apertures. This display combines reading comfort and balanced beauty. The user-friendliness was at the heart of the caliber design. Indeed all the adjustments are extremely easy to make. The days of the week are updated by simply pushing the “easy to grip” button delicately integrated on the left side of the case. All the other adjustments are made by pulling and turning the crown. No tool is required. The fast-adjustment of the date with the central hand can be made by turning the crown forward and backward, allowing the month to be automatically updated accordingly.
The Galet Annual Calendar School Piece Opalin Black & White houses a manual winding mechanical movement equipped with a power-reserve area indication positioned on the movement side. The power reserve is guaranteed for 80 hours.
The Galet Annual Calendar School Piece Opaline Black & White developed by Laurent Ferrier ensures smooth continuity in the watchmaking journey of the House. This same spirit of functionality, as well as readability and aesthetic appeal are already present in the other models from the brand.
With the School Piece case, Laurent Ferrier’s objective was to develop a case with the same roundness, as when those pioneering watchmakers converted pocket watches into wristwatches. For this new caliber, Laurent Ferrier entirely adapted the 40mm School Piece case to ensure perfect harmony and balance between the movement and the timepiece. The same straight, thin lugs offer another contrast of the modern and the traditional, the “pastille” end-piece decoration mirrored by the winding crown.
The gold Assegai hands and baton-type seconds hand retain their characteristic shape. For black dials a red hand or for white dials a burgundy hand created for the date, brings modernity and visibility to the timepiece. The two beveled apertures for days and months ensure optimal readability. The date displayed all around the dial provides a view at one glance on all the relevant information. The dial comes in opaline black or white with vintage-inspired numerals painted in light blue and 31 in red for the dark dials or dark blue and burgundy for white dials.
Laurent Ferrier thereby once again proves its ability to find the perfect balance between a strongly identifiable neoclassical design on the one hand, user-friendliness on the other.
The sapphire crystal case-back of the Galet Annual Calendar School Piece Opaline Black & White provides a fine view of the finesse of the finishing. In addition to the Côtes de Genève motif with a ruthenium treatment adorning the bridges and the circular-graining of the mainplate, the sides and interior angles are manually chamfered and the screw heads are polished.
Laurent Ferrier has used a long “blade” type click ratchet, polished and with a curved shape that reminds the Galet Classic Tourbillon Double hairspring. The sub-dial at 6 o’clock has a circular satin brushed outer circle and a snailed finish in the center. A sunburst finish was chosen to decorate the power-reserve area indication.
The Galet Annual Calendar School Piece Opaline Black and White is fitted with honey alligator leather with Alcantara lining for white dials or matt grey Alligator leather with Alcantara lining for black dials.
Technical details
Model: Galet Annual Calendar School Piece Opaline Black & White Reference LCF025
Movement
Manual winding calibre LF126.01
Swiss lever escapement
Balance Screw
Movement diameter: 31.60 mm (14´´´).
Thickness: 5.80 mm.
Frequency: 3Hz (21´600 /H).
Power reserve: 80 hours.
Number of components: 235.
Number of jewels: 23.
Semi-instantaneous calendar
Days and month semi-instantaneous apertures
Indications
Hours and Minutes in the centre
Small seconds at 6 o´clock
Power reserve area indicator on the back side
Annual calendar:
– Calendar central hand.
– Day-disc and Month-disc (Automatic correction for months with 30 or 31 days. One manual correction on March 1st)
Correctors
Crown for winding, time-setting, calendar central hand and months
Push button at 10 O´clock for days of the week
Correction forward / backward of the calendar on intermediate position of the crown
Case
18K / 750 5N red gold, 18K / 750 yellow gold or stainless steel
Size: 40 mm diameter
Thickness: 10.10 mm or 12.80 mm including the sapphire crystal
Domed sapphire crystals, front and back
Water resistant to 30 meters
“Ball-shaped” crown in stainless steel
Dial
Opaline black or white
Vintage-inspired numerals, 1-30 painted in light blue and 31 in red for the black dials or dark blue and burgundy for white dials
Small second at 6 O´clock, with circular satin brushed outer circle and snailed finish in the center
Bevelled day and month apertures
Hands
18K / 750 210Pd white gold
Hours and minutes: “Assegai-shaped”. Painted in white for the black dials or ruthenium treated for the white dials
Seconds: baton-type with counterweight. Painted in white for the black dials or ruthenium treated for the white dials
Date: Painted in red for the black dials and burgundy for the white dials
Strap
Honey alligator leather Alcantara lining for white dials or matt grey Alligator leather with Alcantara lining for black dials
Pin buckle or a double blade folding clasp
The Lucerne watch company ochs und junior presents the 36mm annual calendar in grade 5 titanium and German silver. ochs und junior manufactures watches designed by the watchmaker and scientist Dr. Ludwig Oechslin. All of its dial components have been manufactured in German silver, and the case is made out of grade 5 titanium. The watch comes with a textile strap with a Kevlar core, which features a grade 5 titanium “loop” buckle.
All of the customization options that are available for the 39mm and 42mm editions are also available for 36mm. The lugs are exactly the same width apart as on the 39mm and 42mm editions (22mm), so the 36mm size can use all of the same straps as other ochs und junior watches.
The water resistance is the same as for the 39mm and 42mm editions (100m). Like the cases for the 39mm and 42mm editions, the lugs do not extend beyond the radius of the bezel, which makes for a comfortable and “true to size” fit. The weight of the 36mm edition is 53g including strap and buckle in titanium/ 93g including strap and buckle in sterling silver. The watch houses ETA 2824-2 movement.
Timepieces with indications of date with or without day and month are generally known as Calendar Watches.
Based on the type of horological complication incorporated, the calendar watches are available in Date Only, Day+Date, Date+Month and Day+Date+Month Versions. The watches that display day of the week, date and month details are again categorized as Triple/Full calendar, Annual Calendar and Perpetual Calendar. Some high complication watches come equipped with any of the calendar functions mentioned above.
Most of us often fail to differentiate between the various types of calendar watches. To understand the calendar watch complications better, we need to go through the Gregorian calendar, the most used civil calendar in the world.
Used all over the world, the Gregorian calendar is a solar calendar with 12 months. It has 365 days in a normal year and 366 days in a leap year.
In Gregorian calendar, numbers of days in a month vary from 28 to 31 days. January, March, May, July, August, October & December months have 31 days each; April, June, September & November months have 30 days each and the month of February has either 28 days in a normal year or 29 days in a leap year.
A Complete Calendar (Quantième Complet in French) watch displays date, day and months with or without moonphase. These types of timepieces are also known as Triple or Full Calendar watches. These watches need manual date adjustment in between the months with different number of days.
Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Quantième Complet (Full Calendar)
In complete/full/triple calendar watches, the date wheel complication reads all months as 31 days month. On 31’st midnight, the date automatically changes to 1’st of the next month. However in case of months with lesser than 31 days, the date will not change to 1’st day of next month in the midnight of last day of the month, so the watch needs correction.
For example, when the date changes from 30th June to 1’st July, the owner of the watch has to manually adjust the date with the help of crown or corrector in order to set the correct date. This type of watch needs manual adjustment of date 05 times in a year: 28/29 Feb to 01st March, 30 April to 01st May, 30 June to 01st July, 30th September to 01st October and 30th November to 01st December.
An Annual Calendar (Quantième Annuel in French) is a watch that shows the date, day of the week and month but requires just one adjustment per year in the transition from February to March.
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar
In an Annual calendar watch, the date wheel complication is mechanically programmed for all months with 30 or 31 days so that from March to January, all month durations can be correctly indicated.
Usually, the annual calendar watch complication counts February as a 30 days month. So, in February, the date indication requires manual correction because according to the Gregorian calendar this particular month has only 28 or 29 days. To move date display from 28th February (29th in Leap year) to 1’st Mach, the owner of the watch needs to manually adjust the watch. As the name suggests, the Annual calendar watch requires manual date correction once in every year.
In some annual calendar watches, the date mechanism is mechanically programmed to count February as a 29 days month. In this condition, once a year, or rather, three times every four years, at the end of February, the wearer of the watch needs to set the date manually. This type of annual calendar watch doesn’t require any manual correction of date during leap years.
Another variant in this category, the calendar watch that displays day, date and month, but needs manual date adjustment once in every leap year known as Quadriannual Calendar. Here, the date mechanism is mechanically programmed to count February as a 28 days month. In this case, date automatically changes from 28th February to 1’st March every year, but the wearer has to manually set the date for 29th February in every leap year.
The watch complication that displays date, day, month and leap years is generally known as Perpetual Calendar. But technically, the answer is correct only if the date doesn’t need any manual adjustment for life time, more exactly till the next centurial year which is not a leap year. As of now, the next centurial year in Gregorian calendar is AD 2100.
To understand the Perpetual Calendar (Quantième Perpétuel in French) complication, we should know the significance of Leap years. A regular Gregorian year consists of 365 days, but in certain years known as leap years, a leap day is added to February. Every year that is exactly divisible by four is a leap year, except for years that are exactly divisible by 100, but these centurial years are leap years if they are exactly divisible by 400. For example, the years 1700, 1800, and 1900 are not leap years, but the year 2000 is.
The date complication in a perpetual calendar watch is designed to understand the differences in days of all 12 months in normal years and leap years in which the month of February has 29 days. So the calendar complication doesn’t need any manual correction of date even in leap years. This makes the date function “perpetual” in nature so this type of complication watch is known as a perpetual calendar.
Most contemporary perpetual calendar watches however need a correction in February 2100 because as per the Gregorian calendar, AD 2100 is not a leap year, and the February month has only 28 days. The perpetual calendar mechanism however reads the year 2100 as a leap year so the owner of the watch has to manually adjust the date from 28th February to 1’st March to synchronize with the traditional Gregorian calendar.
The Business Calendar (Semainier) is a calendar watch that also displays week of the year (1 to 52 weeks).
Introduced in 2000 by Swiss watch brand MAURICE LACROIX, this high complication watch from the prestigious Masterpiece collection combines a split-seconds chronograph and annual calendar. The steel case has a pink gold bezel and is fitted with a solid silver dial pierced with the brand’s exclusive large date window at 12 o’clock and the month window between 4 and 5. The hand-decorated movement is visible through the transparent back.
Technical details
Movement
Automatic ML 15, based on an ETA 2892-A2 calibre
Hand-decorated, 49 jewels, blued steel screws
The Bathyscaphe, a flagship model of Blancpain Fifty Fathoms diving watch collection, now comes equipped with an annual calendar complication for the first time since its launch in 1956.
When it launched in 1953, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms was the world’s first modern diving watch fulfilling the needs of professional divers in underwater conditions. Its set of features and signature design have defined the dive watch genre for the entire industry ever since. The Bathyscaphe first joined the Fifty Fathoms collection in 1956 as a civilian version whose size would be adapted to daily wear. That formula continues today with Blancpain’s modern Bathyscaphe models offering a robust movement, and a unidirectional rotating bezel with a ceramic insert.
Presented at Baselworld 2018, the Bathyscaphe Quantième Annuel (Annual Calendar) brings new functionality to the sport collection, thus enhancing its use as a daily wear timepiece. This is the first time that a Bathyscaphe model features indications for the day of the week, date, and month shown in windows and arranged in the logical order that most people would use in common parlance.
Powering the Bathyscaphe Quantième Annuel is a new caliber, the 6054.P, based upon Blancpain’s in-house twin-barrel 1150 movement, which has been modified with extended bridges creating a wider opening on the caliber.
The black ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel of the new Bathyscaphe with its Liquidmetal® markings dramatically accents the meteor gray dial. The 43mm satin-finished steel case can be fitted with a sail-canvas or NATO strap, as well as a metal bracelet.
Longines launched the Master Collection in 2005 and since then this iconic watch collection has enjoyed an undeniable level of success. Over the years, The Longines Master Collection has been enhanced by new features, but has never lost sight of the timeless classical elegance that is emblematic of the brand, and that contributes to its global success. Longines now offers an annual calendar as part of its Master Collection, controlled by a new mechanical movement.
Combining classical elegance with excellence, the models from The Longines Master Collection featuring an annual calendar contain the new automatic L897 caliber in a stainless-steel case measuring 40 mm in diameter.
With 64 hours of power reserve and the annual calendar displayed at 3 o’clock, the movement can be viewed through the transparent case back. The rhodium plated or blued steel hands jump off the black or silver barleycorn or sunray blue dial.
These elegant timepieces are complimented by a steel bracelet or black, brown or blue alligator watch strap, all fitted with a folding safety clasp.
Technical details
The Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar
Reference numbers: L2.910.4.51/77/78/92.x 40 mm
Movement
Self-winding mechanical movement,
CaliberL897.2 (ETA A31.L81)
11 1/2lines, 21 jewels, 25’200 vibrations per hour
Power reserve of 64 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, annual calendar at 3 o’clock displaying day and month
Case
Round, stainless steel, 40 mm
Sapphire Crystal
Transparent case back
Water-resistance: To 3 bar (30 meters)
Dial
Silver-finished stamped “barleycorn”, 12 Arabic numerals
Silver-finished stamped “barleycorn”, 13 diamond index
Black stamped “barleycorn”, 12 Roman numerals
Sunray blue, 12 indexes
Hands
Blued steel or rhodium-plated
Bracelet/Strap
Black, blue or brown alligator with triple safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism
Stainless steel and rose gold cap with triple safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism
Parmigiani Fleurier presents the Tonda Annual Calendar with the in-house developed Calibre PF339, which features both a retrograde annual calendar and a precision moon phase.
On the annual calendar part, along with retrograde date indication, the watch features sub-dials at 3ó clock and 9ó clock respectively for month and day display. The date is automatically adjusted based on the number of days in the month but it works on the basis of 29 days for February, whether or not it is a leap year. Therefore, once a year, or rather, three times every four years, at the end of February, the wearer of the Tonda Annual Calendar needs to set the date manually. The retrograde date indication never obscures the moon phases at 6 o’clock, showcasing this highly poetic complication. The day of the week and the month are shown in windows at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock respectively, for perfect legibility.
The moon phase on the Tonda Annual Calendar is powered by a “precision moon phase” mechanism. It only needs correcting once every 122 years – remarkable accuracy that requires a compensation for the difference between a classic lunar cycle (29 days and 12 hours) and the actual lunar cycle (29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.8 seconds).
The Tonda Annual Calendar shows two representations of the moon – as viewed from both the northern and southern hemispheres – to meet the needs of wearers in any location. The moon counter and the solid rose gold moon discs stand out on an aventurine glass sky that evokes the poetic beauty of a galaxy full of twinkling stars.
Compared to its predecessor, the Tonda Quator launched in 2011, the Tonda Annual Calendar is notable for its understated character and legibility. The designers have enlarged the bezel to reveal as much of the dial as possible. The minute track and indices sit on the outside, producing a floating effect and guaranteeing highly accurate time reading. The numerals on the retrograde date are arranged on the inside, harmoniously encompassing the day and month counters.
The dial is constructed in several levels, and the three-dimensional arrangement of the various counters creates its relief and richness. The hands are slimmer and more elongated than previously, although their proportions are perfectly in line with the golden ratio beloved of Michel Parmigiani.
The Tonda Annual Calendar is available in two versions: a rose gold case with a white grained dial or with a white gold case with a black opaline dial.
Using the PF331 automatic movement as a base, Parmigiani Fleurier developed the calibre PF339, equipped with an additional module dedicated to the Retrograde Annual Calendar and its precision moon phase. The unique feature of this automatic movement, with a power reserve of 50 hours, is its series-mounted double barrel.
This stabilises the distribution of energy so that it is transmitted to the regulator at a constant level. The movement is ornamented in line with Haute Horlogerie standards, featuring hand-bevelled bridges with Côtes de Genève decoration and an oscillating weight in solid rose gold adorned with a guilloché barley grain motif.
Case
Shape: Round
Dimensions: Ø 40 mm
Material: 18 ct rose gold or 18 ct white gold
Finish: Polished
Water resistance: 30 m
Case-back: Sapphire
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire
Dial
Colour: White or black
Finish: Grained or opaline
Indices: 18 ct rose gold with luminescent coating
Hands: Delta-shaped with luminescent coating
Strap
Leather: Black alligator
Brand: Hermès
Buckle
Buckle: Folding
Material: 18 ct rose gold or 18 ct white gold
Presented at SIHH 2018, this new Annual Calendar watch is powered with Laurent Ferrier’s 5th exclusive calibre that combines a convenient and user friendly functionality with pure design and optimal visibility.
Entirely designed in-house, the Galet Annual Calendar School Piece embodies all the values and spirit, Laurent Ferrier infuses in all his creations. This new timepiece was developed with the aim of ensuring extremely smooth handling, while also ensuring visual balance, readability and performance in all circumstances. With its date and month fast-adjustment by simply turning the crown forward and backward, this new timepiece offers a great experience to the wearer.
For its annual calendar complication, Laurent Ferrier decided to pay a tribute to its first manual winding movement: The tourbillon double hairspring. The new caliber features a long “blade” type click ratchet which became a distinctive signature. For the first time, Laurent Ferrier will introduce a “pale” 18K yellow gold version.
The Galet Annual Calendar School Piece displays the day of the week, the date and the month under consideration of months with 30 and 31 days, so the only adjustment required is once a year: on March the 1st The date is clearly indicated by a central hand and the days of the week and the months in two beveled apertures. This display combines reading comfort and balanced beauty. The user-friendliness was at the heart of the caliber design. Indeed all the adjustments are extremely easy to make. The days of the week are updated by simply pushing the “easy to grip” button delicately integrated on the left side of the case. All the other adjustments are made by pulling and turning the crown. No tool is required.
The fast-adjustment of the date with the central hand can be made by turning the crown forward and backward, allowing the month to be automatically updated accordingly. The Galet Annual Calendar School Piece houses a manual winding mechanical movement equipped with a power-reserve area indication positioned on the movement side. The power reserve is guaranteed for 80 hours.
With the School Piece case, Laurent Ferrier’s objective was to develop a case with the same roundness, as when those pioneering watchmakers converted pocket watches into wristwatches. For this new caliber, Laurent Ferrier entirely adapted the 40mm School Piece case to ensure perfect harmony and balance between the movement and the timepiece. The same straight, thin lugs offer another contrast of the modern and the traditional, the “pastille” end-piece decoration mirrored by the winding crown. Two gold (red and pale yellow) versions and a steel edition will be available.
The gold Assegai hands and baton-type seconds hand retain their characteristic shape. A new red or burgundy hand created for the date, brings modernity and visibility to the timepiece. The two beveled apertures for days and months ensure optimal readability. The date displayed all around the dial provides a view at one glance on all the relevant information.
The dial comes in silver-toned or slate-grey with vintage-inspired numerals painted in blue and two zones with vertical satin brushed on the center and circular satin brushed on the outer circle.
The sapphire crystal case-back of the Galet Annual Calendar School Piece provides a fine view of the finesse of the finishing. In addition to the Côtes de Genève motif with a ruthenium treatment adorning the bridges and the circular-graining of the mainplate, the sides and interior angles are manually chamfered and the screw heads are polished.
The Geneva watch manufacture has incorporated a long “blade” type click ratchet, polished and with a curved shape that reminds the Galet Classic Tourbillon Double hairspring. The sub-dial at 6 o’clock has a circular satin brushed outer circle and a snailed finish in the center. A sunburst finish was chosen to decorate the power-reserve area indication.
The Galet Annual Calendar School Piece is fitted with beige calf leather or black alligator strap with Alcantara lining, secured by a pin buckle or a double blade folding clasp.
Technical details
Model: Galet Annual Calendar Montre Ecole
Reference LCF025
Movement
Manual winding calibre LF126.01
Swiss lever escapement
Balance Screw
Movement diameter: 31.60 mm (14´´´)
Thickness: 5.80 mm
Frequency: 3Hz (21´600 /H)
Power reserve: 80 hours
Number of components: 235
Number of jewels: 23
Indications
Hours and Minutes in the centre
Small seconds at 6 o´clock
Power reserve area indicator on the back side Annual calendar:
– Calendar central hand.
– Day-disc and Month-disc (Automatic correction for months with 30 or 31 days. One correction on March 1st)
Semi-instantaneous calendar: Days and month semi-instantaneous apertures
Correctors
Crown for winding, time-setting, calendar central hand and months
Push button at 10 O´clock for days of the week
Correction forward / backward of the calendar on intermediate position
Case
18K / 750 5N red gold, 18K / 750 pale yellow gold or stainless steel
Size: 40 mm diameter
Thickness: 10.10 mm or 12.80 mm including the sapphire crystal
Domed sapphire crystals, front and back
Water resistant to 30 meters
“Ball-shaped” crown in 18K / 750 5N red gold, 18K / 750pale yellow gold or stainless steel.
Dial
Silver-toned or slate-grey
Vintage-inspired numerals painted in blue
Vertical satin brushed on the center and circular satin brushed on the outer circle
Small second at 6 O´clock, with circular satin brushed outer circle and snailed finish in the center
Bevelled day and month apertures
Hands
18K / 750 210Pd white gold
Hours and minutes: “Assegai-shaped”. Painted in white or ruthenium treated.
Seconds: baton-type with counterweight. Painted in white or ruthenium treated
Date: Painted in red or burgundy
Strap
Black alligator leather Alcantara lining.
Pin buckle or a double blade folding clasp.
Celebrating 150th anniversary, IWC Schaffhausen has created a special jubilee series of watches to mark this historic achievement. As the part of this anniversary collection, in 2018, the Swiss watch manufacture unveiled three limited-edition Pilot’s Watches at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) exhibition in Geneva. Theses limited edition wristwatches can be recognised by their characteristic dials produced using a complex lacquering process in white or blue.
Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition “150 Years”
The Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition “150 Years” (Ref. IW502708) is the only model in the collection with an annual calendar. Production is limited to 100 watches: Stainless steel, blue dial with lacquered finish, rhodium-plated hands (Ref. IW502708).
The annual calendar has an American-format display for the month, date and day in three separate windows on the dial and requires adjustment only once a year at the end of February.
The Pellaton winding of the IWC-manufactured calibre 52850 comes with wear-proof ceramic components and generates a 7-day power reserve in two barrels. The movement is visible through the sapphire-glass back.
Functions
Power reserve display
Annual calendar with displays for the month, date and day
Small hacking seconds
Movement
IWC-manufactured calibre 52850 Mechanical movement
Frequency: 28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
Jewels: 36
Power reserve: 7 days (168 h)
Winding: Automatic
Pellaton automatic winding
Breguet spring
Rotor with Jubilee medallion in 18-carat gold
Case
Stainless steel case, blue dial with lacquered finish, white printed indices and numerals, rhodium-plated hands, black alligator leather strap
Glass: Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 6 bar
Diameter: 46.2 mm
Height: 15.5 mm
Screw-in crown
Glass secured against displacement by drops in air pressure
See-through sapphire-glass back
Edition
Limited to 100 watches
Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Edition “150 Years”
The Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Edition “150 Years” (Ref. 5105) is the first Big Pilot’s Watch from IWC with a date display featuring large numerals beneath the triangular index at “12 o’clock”. Two limited-edition models are available, each restricted to 100 watches: Stainless steel, blue dial with lacquered finish, rhodium-plated hands (Ref. IW510503) and Stainless steel, white dial with lacquered finish, blued hands (Ref. IW510504).
When creating the IWC-manufactured calibre 59235, the watch designers added a date display with large numerals to the hand-wound calibre 59210 with a power reserve of 8 days. The date is displayed using a double date ring, with one disc containing the tens and another disc containing the units. The power reserve display had to be positioned on the reverse side so that the dial could preserve the uncluttered style that is characteristic of Pilot’s Watches.
To this end, the soft-iron cage was fitted with a circular display window without compromising protection against magnetic fields.
Technical details
Model: Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Edition “150 Years”, Ref. IW510503 • IW510504
Functions
Power reserve display on case back
Large, double-digit date display
Small hacking seconds
Movement
IWC-manufactured calibre 59235 Mechanical movement
Frequency: 28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
Jewels: 30
Power reserve: 8 days (192 h)
Winding: Hand-wound
Breguet spring
Case, dial and strap
– Ref. IW510503: Stainless steel case, blue dial with lacquered finish, white printed indices and numerals, rhodium-plated hands, black alligator leather strap
– Ref. IW510504: Stainless steel case, white dial with lacquered finish, black printed indices and numerals, blued hands, black alligator leather strap
Soft-iron inner case for protection against magnetic fields
Screw-in crown
Glass secured against displacement by drops in air pressure
Jubilee insignia engraved on case back
Sapphire glass porthole in case back
Glass: Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 6 bar
Diameter: 46.2 mm
Height: 15.2 mm
Edition
Limited edition of 100 watches each
Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “150 Years”
With the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “150 Years” (Ref. IW377725), IWC is launching an anniversary edition of this popular chronograph that is limited to 1,000 watches: Stainless steel, white dial with lacquered finish, blued hands (Ref. IW377725).
Functions
Date and day display
Stopwatch function with hours, minutes and seconds
Small hacking seconds
Movement
Calibre 79320 Mechanical chronograph movement
Frequency: 28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
Jewels: 25
Power reserve: 44 h
Winding: Automatic
Case, dial and strap
Stainless steel case, white dial with lacquered finish, black printed indices and numerals, blued hands, black alligator leather strap
Glass: Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 6 bar
Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 15.2 mm
Soft-iron inner case for protection against magnetic fields
Screw-in crown
Glass secured against displacement by drops in air pressure
Jubilee insignia engraved on case back
Swiss luxury watch manufacture IWC Schaffhausen expands its Pilot’s Watch collection by presenting three new models.
Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition “Antoine De Saint Exupéry” Ref. IW502706
First one is a new edition of TThe Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition “Antoine de Saint Exupéry” created in honour of the French pilot and author. The Big Pilot’s Watch Heritage is available with a case in either titanium or bronze and takes its inspiration from the historical Big Pilot’s Watch (Calibre 52 T.S.C.). Finally, IWC is also unveiling the compact Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII Heritage in a retro design with a black dial, numerals printed in beige, and blue hands coated with luminescent material.
The Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition “Antoine de Saint Exupéry” is limited to 250 pieces: in 18-carat red gold with a brown dial and gold-plated hands (Ref. IW502706).
The tobacco brown dial and the brown calfskin strap with decorative white stitching are reminiscent of the pilot suits from the era of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. The annual calendar displays the month, date and day in three separate windows and only requires adjustment once a year, at the end of February. The IWC-manufactured calibre 52850 boasts a Pellaton winding system with components in virtually wear-free ceramic and generates a 7-day power reserve in two barrels.
A special feature of this watch is the rotor in solid 18-carat red gold in the form of a Lightning P-38: it was in this particular model of aircraft that Saint-Exupéry took off on a reconnaissance flight across the Mediterranean from which he never returned. This watch is just the latest in a series of timepieces created by IWC to highlight its long-standing partnership with the Antoine de Saint-Exupéry Foundation.
Technical details
Model: Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition “Antoine De Saint Exupéry” Ref. IW502706
Edition
Limited to 250 watches
Functions
Power reserve display
Annual calendar with displays for the month, date and day
Small hacking seconds
Movement
IWC-manufactured calibre 52850
Mechanical movement
Pellaton automatic winding
Frequency: 28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
Jewels: 36
Power reserve: 7 days (168 h)
Winding: Automatic
Breguet spring
Rotor in 18-carat red gold
Case, dial and strap
18-carat red gold case
Diameter: 46.2 mm
Height:15.3 mm
Glass: Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Screw-in crown
Glass secured against displacement by drops in air pressure
See through sapphire-glass back
Water-resistant: 6 bar
Brown dial, gold-plated hands
Brown calfskin strap by Santoni
Big Pilot’s Watch Heritage Ref. IW501004 • IW501005
IWC is also presenting further new products in the form of Pilot’s Watches in the striking retro design of the historic Big Pilot’s Watch (Calibre 52 T.S.C.) from the 1940s.
The Big Pilot’s Watch Heritage is available in two different models: in titanium with a black dial and blue hands coated with luminescent material (IW501004) and in bronze with a black dial and blue hands coated with luminescent material (Ref. IW501005).
The edition in bronze is limited to 1,500 pieces. Both watches are driven by the IWC-manufactured calibre 52110 with a Pellaton winding system and a 7-day power reserve. A power reserve display at “3 o’clock” indicates the charging level at all times.
Functions
Power reserve display
Date display
Central hacking seconds
Movement
IWC-manufactured calibre 52110
Mechanical movement
Pellaton automatic winding
Frequency 28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
Jewels 36
Power reserve 7 days (168 h)
Winding Automatic
Breguet spring
Case, dial and strap
Ref. IW501004: Titanium case, black dial, blue hands coated with luminescent material, brown calfskin strap
Ref. IW501005: Bronze case, black dial, blue hands coated with luminescent material, brown calfskin strap
Glass Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant 6 bar
Diameter: 46.2 mm
Height: 15.4 mm
Soft-iron
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