Since it was founded in 1888, Carl F. Bucherer has been at home in Lucerne, one of Switzerland’s most picturesque cities. The new Heritage BiCompax Annual Hometown Edition pays a unique tribute to its home town Lucerne and 16 important cities in nine different countries.
Boasting its Swiss origin, the brand presents eight Heritage Bicompax Annual Hometown watch models to pay homage to some great places in its home country: Lucerne, Basel, Bern, Geneva, St. Gallen, Zermatt, and Zurich.
Two of Switzerland’s neighboring countries, Austria and France, are represented by Heritage BiCompax Annual Hometown Editions dedicated to Vienna and Paris, respectively.
Furthermore, models have also been created to honor two German cities, Berlin and Munich. Rounding out the offering are five other global capitals: Beijing, London, Mumbai, New York, and Tokyo.
What makes each watch so special is a compelling 3-D-look engraving on the case back’s sapphire crystal, which is dedicated to its specific hometown.
For example, the Lucerne Edition features that city’s landmark Chapel Bridge, while tribute is paid to Tokyo with its skyline and Mount Fuji in the background.
The Heritage BiCompax Annual Beijing’s case back is engraved with the city’s Tiananmen Square landmark. Each edition is distinguished by a one-of-a-kind case-back crystal with a similarly iconic and identifiable monument to its respective city.
The Hometown Edition watches are also presented in different colors. The watches feature gradient dials, which means that the center of the dial is silver and gradually transforms to darker shades of the corresponding color toward the outside of the dial.
With their sunray brushed surfaces, they have been crafted in five different colors. In a choice of yellow, brown, burgundy, green, and mint, these dials are works of art in their own right.
They deliver an impressive amount of information at a glance: along with the rhodium-plated central hour and minute hands, which are filled with black Super-LumiNova, there is a central chronograph seconds hand, a tachymeter scale, and a big date aperture at 12 o’clock, as well as the annual calendar’s month indicator between the 4 o’clock and 5 o’clock positions.
The black small seconds and chronograph subdials offer a bold contrast to the color of the dial. The watches are presented on a two-tone perforated calfskin leather strap with stitching whose color matches the dial.
Along with the distinctive engraved silhouette of each hometown’s defining landmark, the Heritage BiCompax Annual Hometown Edition’s case backs include the name of the city and the phrase “1 out of 88”.
The hometown watches dedicated Beijing will be individually numbered and are limited to 188 pieces.
Each of the dedicated Heritage BiCompax Annual Hometown Edition watches is an interpretation of Carl F. Bucherer’s popular Heritage BiCompax Annual watch, which was introduced in 2018. It took its design inspiration from one of the brand’s archival pieces dating back to the 1950s.
Combining vintage flair with contemporary features, it was a perfect expression of the brand’s heritage. With symmetrically arranged chronograph counters positioned on the dial’s horizontal central axis and a tachymeter scale framing the dial, this timepiece generated an enthusiastic response and has become one of Carl F. Bucherer’s most coveted watches.
Technical details
Collection: Carl F. Bucherer Heritage BiCompax Annual Hometown Edition
Movement
Automatic, CFB 1972 caliber, diameter 30 mm, height 7.3 mm, 47 jewels, power reserve 42 hours
Functions
Chronograph: minutes and seconds counters, annual calendar, big date, hour, minute, small seconds, tachymeter scale
Case: Stainless steel, double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back with engraved sapphire crystal (skyline of the hometown), water-resistant to 3 bar (30 m), diameter 41 mm, height 14.15 mm
Dial
Graded shades of either yellow, brown, burgundy, green, or mint (depending on the watch) with black counters, 10 Arabic numerals (numerals 6 and 12 in black SLN)
Strap
Black calfskin leather strap with either flanks and stitches in yellow, brown, burgundy, green, or mint (depending on the watch) and with a quick release system, stainless steel pin-lock folding clasp
Limitation
88 pieces (1 out of 88) for all watches except the Beijing watches, which are limited and 188 pieces and individually numbered
Heritage BiCompax Annual Hometown Editions
Basel Edition with Burgundy dial, reference 00.10803.08.92.87
Beijing Edition with Green dial, reference 00.10803.08.92.91
Beijing Edition with Burgundy dial, reference 00.10803.08.92.88
Berlin Edition with Green dial, reference 00.10803.08.92.86
Bern Edition with Green dial, reference 00.10803.08.92.93
Genève Edition with Burgundy dial, reference 00.10803.08.92.97
London Edition with Green dial, reference 00.10803.08.92.92
Luzern Edition with Brown dial, reference 00.10803.08.92.85
Mumbai Edition with Green dial, reference 00.10803.08.92.89
München Edition with Yellow dial, reference 00.10803.08.92.96
New York Edition with Green dial, reference 00.10803.08.92.81
Paris Edition with Brown dial, reference 00.10803.08.92.84
St. Gallen Edition with Green dial, reference 00.10803.08.92.94
Tokyo Edition with Mint dial, reference 00.10803.08.92.82
Wien Edition with Mint dial, reference 00.10803.08.92.95
Zermatt Edition with Brown dial, reference 00.10803.08.92.98
Zürich Edition with Green dial, reference 00.10803.08.92.99
The men’s Tonda GT Chronograph from the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Line is now available in new sportier versions: An 18ct rose gold model with chronograph and big date functions; and steel variant with chronograph and annual calendar functions. Both models are offered with two dial styles based on the color of subdials.
In both cases, the colour choices for the chronograph counters in Quantum Grey or Granata lend them a discreet yet very distinctive presence on the generous dial offering exemplary balance in the display of the functions.
The Tonda GT Chronograph with its substantial 42 mm diameter case in 18ct rose gold houses an integrated selfwinding chronograph calibre operating at a rate of 5 Hertz, i.e. 36,000 vibrations per hour, beneath the silver-toned guilloché dial with its “triangular hobnail” motif.
Short-time measurements are read off on the “Quantum Grey” or “Granata” subdials, judiciously positioned to structure the space harmoniously arranged and nicely balanced by the big date display appearing in a twin aperture at 12 o’clock.
Visible through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback, this top-quality mechanical movement boasts a 65- hour power reserve, 331 components including a sandblasted 22ct gold oscillating weight and a column wheel.
It is clearly finished to the highest standards of Haute Horlogerie. It also enables short-time measurements of up to 12 hours with 1/10th of a second precision thanks to the high frequency of its regulating organ.
This extremely accomplished chronograph, water-resistant to 100 metres and equipped with the distinctive finely knurled and polished bezel, is fitted with a deep red or grey rubber strap matching the colour of the subdials and secured by an 18ct rose gold folding clasp.
The same “Quantum Grey” and “Granata” colour scheme between the counters and the rubber strap also applies to the Tonda GT Chronograph in stainless steel featuring an annual calendar, with a knurled bezel framing the silver-toned guilloché dial in a “triangular hobnail” pattern.
This 42 mm diameter chronograph is water-resistant to 100 m and features modern lines with subdials in one or the other of the colours, classically arranged along the 3 o’clock to 9 o’clock axis and topped by the double date window at 12 o’clock.
It is equipped with an in-house self-winding chronograph calibre operating at a frequency of 4 Hertz (28,800 vibrations per hour).
The movement is also endowed with an annual calendar, a useful additional complication that is easily adjustable. This sophisticated mechanism is comprised of 443 components, including a 22ct rose gold oscillating weight.
Technical details
Model: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph, 18ct Rose Gold Version with Big Date, Ref: PFC903- 2020001-400181
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, big date and chronograph
Movement
Calibre PF071
COSC-Certified Manufacture Automatic Movement with Integrated Chronograph and Big Date Display
Power reserve: 65 hours
Frequency: 36,000 Vph (5 Hz)
Jewels: 42
No. of components: 331
Diameter: 30.6 mm
Thickness: 8 mm
Decoration: satin-finished open worked bridges, hand-beveled edges
Oscillating weight: skeletonized, 22ct rose gold, sand-blasted and satin-finished
Case
Polished and satin-finished 18ct rose gold with knurled bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 14.3 mm
Crown: Ø 7.2 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Case back: sapphire glass
Engraving on case back: serial number
Water resistance: 100 m
Dial
Color: Silver & Quantum Grey
Finishing: Clou Triangulaire guilloché
Indices: hand-applied 18ct rose gold appliques with black luminescent coating
Hands
Skeletonized delta-shaped
Strap
Grey vulcanized rubber strap
Closure: folding clasp in 18ct rose gold
Recommended retail price
43,100 CHF
Model: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph, 18ct Rose Gold Version with Big Date, Ref: PFC903- 2020002-400181
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, big date and chronograph
Movement
Calibre PF071
COSC-Certified Manufacture Automatic Movement With Integrated Chronograph And Big Date Display
Power reserve: 65 hours
Frequency: 36,000 Vph (5 Hz)
Jewels: 42
No. of components: 331
Diameter: 30.6 mm
Thickness: 8 mm
Decoration: satin-finished open worked bridges, hand-beveled edges
Oscillating weight: skeletonized, 22ct rose gold, sand-blasted and satin-finished
Case
Polished and satin-finished 18ct rose gold with knurled bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 14.3 mm
Crown: Ø 7.2 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Case back: sapphire glass
Engraving on case back: serial number
Water resistance: 100 m
Dial
Color: Silver & Granata
Finishing: clou triangulaire guilloché
Indices: hand-applied 18ct rose gold appliques with black luminescent coating
Hands: Skeletonized delta-shaped
Strap
Granata vulcanized rubber strap
Closure: folding clasp in 18ct rose gold
Recommended retail price
43,100 CHF
Model: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph, Stainless Steel Version with Annual Calendar, Ref: PFC906-1020001-400181
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, annual calendar and chronograph
Movement
Calibre PF043
Automatic Winding Manufacture Movement
Power reserve: 45 hours
Frequency: 28,800 Vph (4 Hz)
Jewels: 56
No. of components: 443
Diameter: 30.0 mm
Thickness: 7.4 mm
Decoration: Côtes de Genève, Perlage
Oscillating weight: skeletonized, 22ct rose gold, sand-blasted and satin-finished
Case
Polished and satin-finished stainless steel with knurled bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 13.7 mm
Crown: Ø 7.2 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Case back: sapphire glass
Engraving on case back: serial number
Water resistance: 100 m
Model: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph, Stainless Steel Version with Annual Calendar, Ref: PFC906-1020002-400181
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, annual calendar and chronograph
Movement
Calibre PF043
Automatic Winding Manufacture Movement
Power reserve: 45 hours
Frequency: 28,800 Vph (4 Hz)
Jewels: 56
No. of components: 443
Diameter: 30.0 mm
Thickness: 7.4 mm
Decoration: Côtes de Genève, Perlage
Oscillating weight: skeletonized, 22ct rose gold, sand-blasted and satin-finished
Case
Polished and satin-finished stainless steel with knurled bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 13.7 mm
Crown: Ø 7.2 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Case back: sapphire glass
Engraving on case back: serial number
Water resistance: 100 m
Dial
Colour: Silver & Granata
Finishing: Clou Triangulaire guilloché
Indices: hand-applied rhodium-plated appliques with black luminescent coating
Hands: Skeletonized delta-shaped
In this new timepiece, Patek Philippe combines two of its outstanding patented complications: the Annual Calendar and the Travel Time system for the display of a second time zone.
The date display is synchronized with the respective local time. It simultaneously adjusts the date when the time zone is corrected. The new self-winding caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement is endowed with eight patents.
For this model, the manufacture created a totally new Calatrava case. Its flanks are guilloched with the inimitable hobnail pattern and its dial is framed in the vintage genre inspired by old photo cameras. The same unique design also graces the Ref. 5226G-001 Calatrava, a watch without an additional complication powered by the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C movement.
For Patek Philippe, the technical perfection and aesthetic beauty of a timepiece have always had the same significance. The composition of the movement, case, and dial is always in the focus of the manufacture’s creations.
With its self-winding movement that features two exclusive functions, its round Calatrava case with unique design and decorative features, and an inimitable dial, the new Ref. 5326G-00 Annual Calendar Travel Time delivers a perfect example of an approach that combines all facets of watchmaking artistry with balanced elegance.
In 1996, Patek Philippe merged all of its Genevan ateliers in Plan-les-Ouates under one roof and attracted attention with the launch of its patented Annual Calendar. It is a full calendar with day/date/month that only has to be manually corrected once a year on March 1.
To develop the system that automatically distinguishes between months with 30 and 31 days, the engineers designed an innovative mechanism based largely on wheels and pinions. Since then, the Annual Calendar has become a highlight among the manufacture’s complicated watches.
Today, it comes in a broad selection of ladies’ and men’s wristwatches and is also available in several self-winding flyback chronograph model versions. In the Ref. 5033, Patek Philippe even combined the Annual Calendar with a minute repeater movement.
It was followed in 1997 by a new technical launch, this time in the domain of travel timepieces. The exclusive Travel Time mechanism features a clutch based on a Patek Philippe patent granted in 1959. The ingenious system indicates a second time zone with a second hour hand from the center.
With two pushers in the left-hand case flank, it can be adjusted in one-hour increments in both directions without affecting the precise rate of the movement. Today, the Travel Time function is also available in various watch models, including the self-winding Ref. 5990 Flyback Chronograph or the Ref. 5520 Alarm Travel Time.
Among the optimized features introduced in 2021, the new caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement retains the 20% gain in barrel torque, the increased winding power of the minirotor thanks to the use of platinum, the frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 semi-oscillations per hour), and a reduction wheel that uncouples automatic winding when the watch is manually wound, which reduces wear. Energy-wise, the performance of the new movement was further improved by a minute wheel suspended between bearing jewels to increase efficiency.
The connection between the Annual Calendar and the Travel Time function involved several technical challenges. The issue wasn’t just to accommodate both mechanisms in the same case. They had to interact in such a way that the displayed date corresponded with local time, hence the time at the location of the wearer of the watch.
And it may need to be adjusted when the time zone is corrected. Thus, in the new caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement, the Annual Calendar is controlled by the Travel Time function and it is the local-time hour wheel that drives the calendar. Connoisseurs will be delighted to note that the principle of the Ref. 5531 World Time Minute Repeater (2017) has been retained. It is the first minute repeater that always sounds local time because the World Time mechanism controls the minute repeater.
For the new Ref. 5326G-001, Patek Philippe redesigned the Travel Time function as well. While the basic principle with two hour hands from the center is retained (solid hand for local time, pierced hand for home time), the two common time zone pushers in the left-hand case flank were replaced with a winding-stem setting mechanism that has three positions. It premiered in 2021 with the Aquanaut Luce Travel Time (Ref. 5269/200R-001).
The user merely needs to pull the crown to the middle position and then turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to adjust the local-time hour hand in one-hour increments in either direction without affecting the precise rate of the movement.
Aesthetic reasons favored the decision for this discrete crown setting system: Patek Philippe wanted a sleek design in the Calatrava style to emphasize the special motif on the case flanks. Setting the time in the home-time zone is done in the classic manner with the crown in the outermost position.
The caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement has a stop-seconds mechanism that allows the time to be set with one-second accuracy. This function is only active while the crown is pulled to the outermost position. This prevents the movement from stopping when selecting a new time zone and preserves the rate accuracy of the movement. When the owner is not traveling, the two hour hands can be superposed with the crown and will then look like one hand.
To make sure the watch always displays the date that matches the respective local time, the engineers also had to modify the Annual Calendar mechanism.
In a conventional annual calendar, the display advance around midnight lasts about 90 minutes, so a date misalignment could occur if the time zone is adjusted in this time span. To assure that users see the correct date longer, Patek Philippe’s engineers shortened the display advance of the Annual Calendar discs by a factor of 5 to about 18 minutes.
Thanks to a cam system with partial toothing connected to the hour wheel, the 24-hour wheel executes its rotation in four phases instead of continuously: 180° rotation in 3 hours (toward midnight), 9 hours of standstill, 180° rotation in 3 hours (toward noon), 9 hours of standstill. This improves the coordination of the calendar switching phase with local time. But the word acceleration also suggests higher energy consumption.
To optimize the efficiency, precision, durability, safety, and operating convenience of the caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement, the engineers developed several innovations that resulted in eight patent applications. For instance, these technical refinements make it possible to reduce the energy consumption and wear of certain components, to switch from the 30th to the 1st and from the 1st to the 30th without desynchronizing the calendar when adjusting the time zone, to prevent shifts and double jumps of the displays or avoid damaging parts of the movement if the moon phase, the month, or the day of the week are corrected in a time frame during which this is explicitly inadvisable.
The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the architecture of the caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement with the elegantly cut and gently curved bridges. It affords a better view of the wheels of the base movement and the exquisite manually executed finissage that reflects the strict directives of the Patek Philippe Seal.
The newly designed white-gold case has a diameter of 41 millimeters. With its slightly chamfered bezel and the polished, inclined lugs, it underscores the sleek and timeless elegance of the Calatrava design yet expresses its very own distinctive personality.
The case middle displays Patek Philippe’s signature hobnail motif along its entire circumference. The subtly shining pattern of tiny pyramids was showcased on the bezel of the famous Ref. 3919 Calatrava “Clous de Paris” in 1985; it was produced for over 20 years and became one of the best-known models of the watch world. In 2021, it experienced a strong comeback in the new, highly contemporary Ref. 6119 Calatrava “Clous de Paris” that is made in rose gold and white gold.
On the case of the Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time, it provides a new perspective of this very refined element of the Patek Philippe style. To allow the hobnail pattern to so elegantly adorn the complete flank of the caseband, Patek Philippe conceived an exceptional case design in which the strap lugs are attached to the case back.
The vintage-style dial is crafted entirely by Cadrans Flückiger in Saint-Imier, a dial specialist which has belonged to Patek Philippe since 2004.
The dial is charcoal gray with a fine gradation to the periphery and has a slightly granular structure that is reminiscent of the cases of old photo cameras. The time of day is shown by applied Arabic numerals in white gold with beige luminous coatings.
The hours of local time and the minutes are displayed with luminous white-gold “Seringue” hands that with their long tips resemble syringes. A pierced “Seringue” hand indicates the hours of home time. The three apertures of the Annual Calendar – day of the week and month on one line at 12 o’clock, date at 6 o’clock – show easily legible black inscriptions on white backgrounds.
Two small round windows marked “LOCAL” at 8 o’clock and “HOME” at 4 o’clock are day/night indicators for local time and home time, respectively. This balanced arrangement is complemented by the subsidiary seconds that sweeps the moon-phase aperture at 6 o’clock.
The calendar indications can be adjusted with the aid of small correctors in the caseband located near the respective functions: day at 10, month at 2, date at 4 and moon phases at 8 o’clock. The vintage aspect is emphasized with a slightly raised box-design sapphire-crystal glass.
The new Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time is delivered with two interchangeable straps, one beige calfskin with nubuck texture (original version), the other black calfskin with embossed textile finish and beige decorative stitching (additional strap).
The eight patents of the new caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement
Time-setting with three crown positions (Swiss patent application CH 716383 A2): This time-setting system has a lever with three positions that can deactivate certain wheels as long as they are not performing any correction. This reduces energy consumption and wear of the respective wheels. The result is a gain for the balance amplitude (rate accuracy) and for reliability
Forward/backward mechanism for the Annual Calendar (European patent application EP 3776095 A1): This system relies mainly on the addition of a tooth and a spring on the month lever that allows the transition from the 30th to the 1st and from the 1st to the 30th without desynchronizing the date. Therefore, the user can easily switch the time zone forward or backward with the winding stem.
Linear time-zones spring (European patent EP 3650953 B1): This system consists of a star wheel and a jumper spring. It allows a strong torque increase between the local time hour wheel and the home time hour wheel and thus an acceleration of the date jumps despite the increase in energy consumption. It provides the user with more precise information.
Pivotable holding bridge (European patent applications EP 3714336 A1 and 070431/2021): This system keeps the day disc in position without the use of a center screw. To remove the disc, the watchmaker merely needs to pivot the bridge to the side. This releases the star without requiring the disassembly of the movement and without any modification of the settings. This timesaving and simplification is part of the improvements in watch maintenance.
Inertial delta (European patent application EP 3822711 A1): This mechanism offsets the inertia difference between a heavier and a lighter wheel. When the time zone is being corrected in either direction, it prevents an unintended forward or backward misalignment of the time displays (home time, local time, minutes). This increases the accuracy of the displays.
Braking mechanism for the date disc when a correction is made (European patent application EP 3882716 A1): This system with an additional spring (brake) is only active when the crown is pulled to the middle position. It prevents double jumps of the date disc if the user exerts too much force. It safeguards the greater reliability of the mechanism (amplitude gain and wear reduction).
Flexible correctors (European patent application 20205322.9): With a system of flexible leaf springs for switching protection purposes, this mechanism prevents the risk of a material failure when the user performs a correction during an unfavorable time window. This improves the reliability and longevity of the movement.
Technical details
Model: Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time
Movement
Caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H
Self-winding mechanical movement. Annual Calendar with aperture displays for the day, date, and month. Two Travel Time zones (local time and home time) with day/night indicators for local and home time
Moon phases and small seconds
Diameter: 33 mm
Inside case diameter: 31.74 mm
Height: 5.6 mm (2.6 mm for the base movement, 3 mm for the Annual Calendar and Travel Time module)
Number of parts: 409
Number of jewels: 47
Power reserve: Min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Winding rotor: Off-center minirotor in 950 platinum, unidirectional winding
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax®
Balance spring: Spiromax® in Silinvar®
Balance spring stud: Adjustable
Functions
3-position crown
• Pushed home: manual winding
• Pulled to middle position: Setting of local time in either direction in one-hour steps
• Pulled all the way out: Setting of home time with hours and minutes, stop seconds
Displays With hands:
• Hour hands for local and home time and minute hand from the center
• Subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock In apertures:
• Day and month on one line at 12 o’clock
• Date at 6 o’clock
• Day/night indicator for local time at 8 o’clock
• Day/night indicator for home time at 4 o’clock
• Moon phases at 6 o’clock
Correctors
Month at 2 o’clock
Date at 4 o’clock
Moon phases at 8 o’clock
Day of week at 10 o’clock
Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal
Case
18K white gold
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water resistant to 30 m (3 bar)
Case dimensions: Diameter: 41 mm
Height (crystal to display back): 11.07 mm
Dial
Granular, charcoal gray with black gradation to the periphery
Applied numerals in 18K white gold with beige luminous coating
Railway track minute scale and beige printed markers
Seringue hands for local time hours and minutes, 18K white gold with beige luminous coating
Pierced Seringue hand for home time hours, 18K white gold, lacquered beige
Small seconds with dagger hand, 18k white gold lacquered beige
Straps
Calfskin with nubuck finish, hand-stitched, beige
Delivered with additional calfskin strap with embossed textile pattern, black with beige decorative stitching
Fold-over clasp in 18K white gold
Pierre Deroche presents new Annual Calendar watches from its flagship Grandcliff collection.
The iconic GrandCliff collection was introduced in 2005. Now, this series welcomes new annual calendar models. Equipped with a Dubois Dépraz module, the GrandCliff Annual Calendar and GrandCliff Milady Annual Calendar boast quick date correction via the crown, and quick month correction via a corrector.
With a large 32 mm date disc, Pierre DeRoche offers a particularly generous date display, and makes readability one of the top assets of its annual calendar.
Thinner, and slightly smaller in diameter (41 mm vs. 42.5 mm), the new case of the GrandCliff annual calendar adopts the line’s aesthetic codes, its round shape, and the recognisable design of its horns, to perpetuate the perfect poise and fine elegance which have underpinned the collection’s success.
Featuring appliqué silver indices, the shaded black dial with velvety background features a generously-sized date window at 3 o’clock and a month indicator at 7 o’clock by means of a coloured red disc under the dial.
Enhanced with grey stitching, the corudra-look leather strap gives the GrandCliff Annual Calendar a final touch of the elegance of a classic and contemporary timepiece.
The GrandCliff Milady Annual Calendar watch comes with a steel case and diamond-set bezel. The finely wrought silver-plated dial bears a sunray decoration at 3 o’clock, complemented by a date window with black writing on a white background.
The month indicator at 7 o’clock uses a counter with heart-shaped cut-outs. The displays are read via a burgundy-coloured disc to match the leather strap, plus the seconds hand.
Technical details
Model: Pierre DeRoche Grandcliff Annual Calendar
Movement
Mechanical automatic, Dubois Dépraz calibre 6501, 21 jewels
Nickel silver oscillating weight on ball-bearing mechanism, cut-out and engraved
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds.
Annual calendar with date and month indicators
Case
Steel polished and satin-finished
41 mm diameter
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal front and back
Screw-lock winding-crown with the Pierre DeRoche logo
Water-resistant to 50 m
Dial
Black shading
Appliqué indices
Strap
Black Cordudra-look leather strap with steel folding clasp
Model: Pierre DeRoche Grandcliff Milady Annual Calendar
Movement
Mechanical automatic, Dubois Dépraz calibre 6501, 21 jewels
Nickel silver oscillating weight on ball-bearing mechanism, cut-out and engraved
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds
Annual calendar with date and month indicators
Case
Steel polished and satin-finished
Bezel set with 94 diamonds, brilliant cut VVSI (0.42 cts)
41 mm diameter
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal front and back
Screw-lock winding-crown with the Pierre DeRoche logo
Water-resistant to 50 m
Dial
Silvered, sunray pattern
Heart-shaped cut-outs month’s indicator at 7 o’clock
Appliqué indices
Strap
Burgundy Cordudra-look leather strap with steel folding clasp
OMEGA has added three new Annual Calendar watches to its refined Globemaster family.
First released in 2015, Globemaster the world’s first Master Chronometer certified collection. The new additions follow the classical styling of the series.
Each new 41 mm model has received the signature details that fans will be familiar with, including a fluted bezel, as well as a pie-pan dial, inspired by the very first OMEGA Constellation watches released in 1952. On each facet, the months of the year have been elegantly written, while a Central Observatory medallion is set on the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal caseback – a tribute to OMEGA’s history of precision records and achievements in the early 20th century.
Crafted in stainless steel, the first new model includes a sun-brushed green dial with 18K white gold used for the facetted hands, OMEGA logo, indexes, and Constellation star.
The watch is set on a green leather strap and includes a hard metal (tungsten carbide) bezel for extra strength and resilience. Inside, the timepiece is powered by OMEGA’s Co-Axial Master Chronometer Annual Calendar Calibre 8922.
The second model is presented with a stainless steel case and a polished bezel in 18K Sedna Gold – OMEGA’s exclusive red gold alloy. This is the same gold used for the crown, as well as the details on the sun-brushed burgundy dial, including the facetted hands, OMEGA logo, indexes, and Constellation star.
The design is completed by a burgundy leather strap, along with the OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Annual Calendar Calibre 8922.
Among the three new annual calendars, the most luxurious version features 18K Sedna Gold case and bezel. Furthermore, OMEGA has used 18K Sedna Gold to create the dial, written with “Au750” to reference the material. Many of the dial details are made in the same gold, including the OMEGA logo, Constellation star, and the indexes.
Meanwhile, black onyx has been used for the index settings, and for the very first time at OMEGA, also for the hour and minute hands. Worn on a glossy black leather strap, this model is driven by the OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Annual Calendar Calibre 8923.
All the new OMEGA Globemaster Annual Calendar watches are offered with a 5-year warranty and a Master Chronometer certification card.
The approximate retail price range is $8,400.00 to $31,000.00.
Movement
Calibre: Omega 8922 (steel models) or 8923 (18K Sedna™ Gold model)
Self-winding movement with Co-Axial escapement
Movement and watch tested according to Master Chronometer certification process approved by METAS
Resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss
Free sprung balance with silicon balance spring
Two barrels mounted in series
Automatic winding in both directions
Annual calendar with instantaneous jump
Central-hand month indication
Calibre Omega 8922 featuring special luxury finish with rhodium plated rotor and bridges with Geneva waves in arabesque
Calibre Omega 8922 featuring special luxury finish with 18K Sedna™ gold rotor and balance bridge with Geneva waves in arabesque
Power reserve: 55 hours
Case
Material: Stainless steel case or 18K Sedna™ Gold
Case diameter: 41 mm
Domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with antireflective treatment on both sides
Water resistance: 10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet)
Transparent sapphire crystak case back with a Central Observatory medallion
Case and bezel combination
Reference 130.33.41.22.10.001: Stainless steel case with tungsten carbide bezel, fluted
Reference 130.23.41.22.11.001: Stainless steel case with polished bezel in 18K Sedna™ Gold, fluted
Reference 130.53.41.22.99.002: 18K Sedna™ Gold case with polished bezel in 18K Sedna™ Gold, fluted
Dials
Reference 130.33.41.22.10.001: Sun-brushed green “Pie Pan” dial; 18K white gold Constellation star and OMEGA logo; 18K white gold facetted hands and indexes with Super-LumiNova
Reference 130.23.41.22.11.001: Sun-brushed burgundy “Pie Pan” dial; 18K Sedna™ Gold Constellation star and OMEGA logo; 18K Sedna™ Gold facetted hands and indexes with Super-LumiNova
Reference 130.53.41.22.99.002: Sun-brushed 18K Sedna™ Gold “Pie Pan” dial marked “Au750”; 18K Sedna™ Gold Constellation star and OMEGA logo; 18K Sedna™ Gold facetted hour and minute hands, and indexes set with black onyx
Dial display
Central hour, minute and second hands
12 facets on the dial, each facet is inscribed with corresponding month
Annual calendar: Date at 6 o’ clock; month indication using a central hand
Straps
Reference 130.33.41.22.10.001: Green leather strap
Reference 130.23.41.22.11.001: Burgundy leather strap
Reference 130.53.41.22.99.002: Black leather strap
Suggested retail price (in USA)
Version with Steel case, tungsten carbide bezel and green dial: $8,400.00
Version with Steel case, 18K Sedna™ Gold bezel and burgundy dial: $11,200.00
Version with 18K Sedna™ Gold case, bezel and dial: $31,000.00
Incorporating a self-winding flyback chronograph and a patented annual calendar, Patek Philippe Reference 5905 belongs to the brand’s Complications family.
Launched as a platinum model in 2015, then in rose gold in 2019, Reference 5905 is now available for first time in stainless steel. Fitted with a three-link integrated bracelet, it boasts an elegant and contemporary-styled sunburst olive green dial.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA
The dial ensures excellent legibility for the additional functions, with a central chronograph hand, a large 60-minute subdial at 6 o’clock and three day/date/month apertures arranged in an arc for instant reading of the Annual Calendar indications. There is also a discreet day/night indicator at 6 o’clock that is useful for ensuring accurate date setting.
The caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H remains faithful to the traditional column wheel for the transmission of chronograph commands. However, instead of a toothed-wheel horizontal clutch, it has a vertical disk-type clutch.
This modern technical solution causes almost no wear and tear, and the central chronograph seconds hand can also be used as a permanent (running) seconds display. The patented Annual Calendar automatically takes account of 30- and 31-day months, requiring only one correction per year, on March 1st. This movement is visible through the transparent sapphire caseback.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA
The polished steel case features a sophisticated construction with a concave bezel and recessed sides. The integrated steel bracelet is inspired by that of the Aquanaut Reference 5167/1A with its contrasting finishes (polished outer links and satin-finish inner links), while subtly distinguished from it by the underside of the bracelet and the edges which are polished, in line with the case. It is equipped with a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches.
The new Patek Philippe 5905/1A-001 is joining existing references 5905P-001 in platinum with a blue dial and 5905R-001 in rose gold with brown dial.
Technical details
Model: Patek Philippe Self-winding Flyback Chronograph with Annual Calendar, Reference 5905/1A-001 (in steel with an integrated bracelet and a sunburst green dial)
Movement
Caliber CH 28‑520 QA 24H
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 33 mm
Height: 7.68 mm
Parts: 402
Jewels: 37
Power reserve: min. 45 hours – max. 55 hours
Winding rotor: 21K gold central rotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Functions
Flyback Chronograph
Central chronograph hand and 60-minute counter
Annual Calendar
Day, date, month and day/night indication displayed in apertures
Dial
Olive green sunburst, gold applied hour markers
Case
Steel case
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30m
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 14.13 mm
Bracelet
Integrated Steel bracelet with fold-over clasp
Celebrating its 25th anniversary, Parmigiani Fleurier presents Tonda PF, the latest and most forward-looking collection from the Swiss Maison. This new series belong to the brand’s popular Tonda collection. Fitted with new integrated bracelets, Tonda PF watches are built around the most iconic in-house movements.
The Tonda PF series inducts a new brand signature. The PF logo appears at 12 o’clock, nestled in a vertical, oval, double-edged appliqué with extensive finishings, a harbinger of the level of care put into the collection.
The indices of each timepiece are set across two levels of the dial, while the Grain d’Orge guilloché dial pattern is the finest imaginable.
The inaugural Tonda PF collection is comprised of four models: Micro-Rotor, Chronograph, Annual Calendar with Retrograde Date and the limited edition Split Seconds Chronograph.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor with polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel
The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is a slim, pared-down, high-end two-hander with platinum micro-rotor. The Tonda PF Chronograph features an almost flush dial and an integrated high frequency chronograph movement.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph with polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel with platinum 950 hand-knurled bezel
The Tonda PF Annual Calendar with retrograde date demonstrates how discretely and astutely advanced indications can be integrated into a pared-down design.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Annual Calendar – with polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel case and platinum hand-knurled bezel
All three Tonda PF models mentioned above are available in steel with platinum hand-knurled bezel or entirely crafted in 18ct rose gold.
At the top of the range is a limited series of the Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph. To mark the 25th Anniversary of the manufacture, this timepiece is limited to 25 pieces. It features a dial, case and bracelet made of platinum 950, whose high frequency, open-worked, split seconds chronograph movement is built out of solid gold.
Tonda PF represents a mature, sartorial approach to watchmaking, where cloth is replaced by metal and weaving by dial pattern. The cutting and fitting of the shoulders and waistline take on the form of case and bracelet. These are entirely focused on silhouette, fluidity, proportions and taste.
Its specific hands are made of solid gold. Slim and long, they’re almost entirely openworked and of completely new design. The bezel, a direct heritage from the Tonda collection, features a sleek, polished part and another that’s been knurled by hand, and is crafted out of solid platinum 950 for the steel models.
Rather than using the same steel as the rest of the case and bracelet, Parmigiani Fleurier has elected to work with this highly precious metal. Not for the sake of exclusivity, but because it provides a better, shinier play with light and a more artisanal feeling once polished by hand.
The case band on all four references of the Tonda PF line is not straight, but slightly bassiné, i.e. wider near the bezel and narrower on the wrist. This provides the overall design with a sense of increased slimness. The surface is horizontal-satin-finished all around as is the upper surface of the lugs.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor
The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor measures 40 mm in diameter and owes its pure aesthetic to the uncluttered warm grey, matte guilloché dial.
It inaugurates a new version of Parmigiani Fleurier’s fundamental movement, the PF703. This ultra-slim, 3 mm thick engine is self-winding thanks to a full platinum micro-rotor. This diminutive oscillating weight allows the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor to measure a mere 7.8 mm on the wrist, ensuring comfort and elegance.
The timepiece displays hours, minutes and date. The date disc is the exact same color as the minute track’s, creating a consistent colorway.
Technical details
Movement
Caliber PF703
Automatic winding manufacture movement with platinum 950 micro-rotor
Power reserve: 48 hours
Frequency: 21,600 Vph (3 Hz)
Jewels: 29
No. of components: 176
Diameter: 30 mm
Thickness: 3 mm
Decoration: Côtes de Genève, Perlage
Oscillating weight: platinum 950 micro-rotor – Grain d’Orge guilloché
Case
Polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 7.8 mm
Crown: Ø 4.3 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Caseback: sapphire glass
Engraving on caseback: serial number& “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”
Water resistance: 100 m
Case
Polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel with platinum 950 hand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 7.8 mm
Crown: Ø 4.3 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Caseback: sapphire glass
Engraving on caseback: serial number& “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”
Water resistance: 100 m
Bracelet
Polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel bracelet
Closure: medical stainless steel folding clasp
Recommended retail price
21,000 CHF
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph
The 42 mm Tonda PF Chronograph houses the 5 Hz Caliber PF070, an integrated, high frequency, column wheel movement with small seconds and two registers. Integrating three counters on the Tonda PF Chronograph’s thinly guilloché dial demands finesse.
Parmigiani Fleurier maintains an almost flush surface by using thinly sandblasted minute track and counter outlines on the discrete blue dial.
The pushers have been fused with the profile of the Tonda PF Chronograph’s lugs. This model, along with the Tonda PF Annual Calendar, premieres a new oscillating weight in 22ct rose gold, widely open-worked with a central PF logo medallion.
Technical details
Movement
Caliber PF070
COSC-Certified Automatic Manufacture Movement with Integrated Chronograph
Power reserve: 65 hours
Frequency: 36,000Vph (5 Hz)
Jewels: 42
No. of components: 315
Diameter: 30.6 mm
Thickness: 6.95 mm
Decoration: satin-finished open worked bridges, hand-beveled edges
Oscillating weight: skeletonized, 22ct rose gold¸ polished and sand-blasted
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date and chronograph
Case
Polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 12.4 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Caseback: sapphire glass
Engraving on caseback: serial number& “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”&“36’000 Alt/h”
Water resistance: 100 m
Dial
Color: blue
Finishing: Grain d’Orge guilloché
Indices: hand-applied 18ct rose gold appliqués
Hands
Hours and minutes: 18ct rose gold skeletonized delta-shaped
Chronograph and small seconds: steel rose gold-plated
Bracelet
Polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold bracelet
Closure: eco-friendly 18ct rose gold folding clasp
Case
Polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel with platinum 950 hand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 12.4 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Caseback: sapphire glass
Engraving on caseback: serial number& “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”&“36’000 Alt/h”
Water resistance: 100 m
Hands
Hours and minutes: 18ct gold rhodium-plated skeletonized delta-shaped
Chronograph and small seconds: steel rhodium-plated
Bracelet
Polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel bracelet
Closure: Medical stainless steel folding clasp
Recommended retail price
28,000 CHF
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Annual Calendar
The 42 mm Tonda PF Annual Calendar transcends the aesthetics that had thus far been associated with Parmigiani Fleurier’s annual calendar movement.
Caliber PF339 presents a retrograde date, day, month and 122-year moonphase as visible in both hemispheres. As they come on top of the three usual time-telling hands, the very nature of the general design of the collection was at stake.
By pushing the date outwards onto the minute track and using discretely outlined counters on the warm grey guilloché dial, Parmigiani Fleurier has managed to balance the pared-down equilibrium of the collection’s design language and an elaborate layout.
Movement
Caliber PF339
Automatic Winding Manufacture Movement with Retrograde Annual Calendar and Precision Moon Phase
Power reserve: 50 hours
Frequency: 28,800 Vph (4 Hz)
Jewels: 32
No. of components: 359
Diameter: 27.1 mm
Thickness: 5.5 mm
Decoration: Côtes de Genève, beveled bridges, Perlage
Oscillating weight: skeletonized, 22ct rose gold¸ polished and sand-blasted
Model: Tonda PF Annual Calendar, Ref: PFC907-2020001-200182
Case
Polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold with hand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 11.1 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Caseback: sapphire glass
Engraving on caseback: serial number& “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”
Water resistance: 100 m
Hands
Hours and minutes: 18ct rose gold skeletonized delta-shaped
Calendar and seconds: steel rose gold-plated
Bracelet
Polished and satin-finished eco-friendly 18ct rose gold bracelet
Closure: Eco-friendly 18ct rose gold folding clasp
Recommended retail price
70,000 CHF
Model: Tonda PF Annual Calendar, Ref: PFC907-1020001-100182
Case
Polished and satin-finished medical stainless steel with platinum 950 hand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 11.1 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Case back: sapphire glass
Engraving on case back: serial number & “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”
Water resistance: 100 m
Limited to just 25 units as an homage to the maison’s 25th Anniversary, the Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph gives prominence to the best craftsmanship available at Parmigiani Fleurier. The case and bracelet of this timepiece are crafted in platinum.
This timepiece features an extremely rare, solid platinum dial to match the deep luster and specific sheen of the case and bracelet, while its sandblasted finish maintains the matte, finely textured theme of the collection.
Caliber PF361 is a new version of the manufacture’s most high-end caliber, the GPHG-awarded ChronOr. Three characteristics make this movement a truly exceptional creation.
One, its mainplate and bridges are made of solid 18ct rose gold. Two, they’re extensively open worked, satin-finished and beveled, even though the dial is a closed one. Three, it is an integrated, high frequency split seconds chronograph. It allows optimal timekeeping of two events starting at the same time, down to the 10th of a second.
Movement
Caliber PF361
Manual Winding Manufacture Movement in 18ct Rose Gold with Integrated Split Seconds Chronograph
Power reserve: 65 hours
Frequency: 36,000 Vph (5 Hz)
Jewels: 35
No. of components: 309
Diameter: 30.6 mm
Thickness: 8.45 mm
Decoration: satin-finished open worked bridges, hand-beveled edges
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, split-seconds chronograph
Case
Polished and satin-finished platinum 950withhand-knurled bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 15 mm
Crown: Ø 7.2 mm, screwed-in
Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire
Caseback: sapphire glass
Engraving on caseback: serial number–“Edition limitée X/25”– “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”–“36’000 Alt/h”
Water resistance: 100 m
This stunning new watch from Carl F. Bucherer takes inspiration from a classic car owned by the Bucherer family.
The Carl F. Bucherer limited-edition Heritage BiCompax Annual Lucerne was inspired by a classic Lincoln Cosmopolitan Town Sedan originally belonged to Carl Eduard Bucherer, the son of Carl Friedrich Bucherer.
This classic car was sold in 1952 and changed hands several times over the years. In 2013, however, Jörg G. Bucherer, Carl Eduard’s son, was able to buy the family car and have it restored to its original glory. The new Heritage BiCompax Annual Lucerne watch features color details inspired by the restored automobile.
This remarkable watch, produced in an edition limited to 188 pieces, is a stunning celebration of the Bucherer family and its connection to classic cars. It also pays homage to the brand’s hometown of Lucerne.
The Carl F. Bucherer Heritage BiCompax Annual Lucerne has a 41 mm stainless steel case presented on a multi-link Milanese stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp and a quick release system.
In addition, it is delivered with a calfskin leather strap with a folding clasp, which also has a quick release system, so the look can be changed quickly and easily according to the wearer’s choice of outfit and plans for the day.
The silver-colored dial on display through the double-domed sapphire crystal features light blue subdials with chronograph minutes and small seconds counters, which are complemented by a light blue ring with a tachymeter scale surrounding the dial.
The light blue recalls the color of Jörg G. Bucherer’s lovingly restored automobile. The watch’s dial also boasts a month aperture between 4 and 5 o’clock and a bold big date window just below 12 o’clock.
The watch is equipped with a modern self-winding annual calendar chronograph movement. The CFB Caliber 1972 has a power reserve of 42 hours, and its annual calendar complication accounts for different month lengths – 30 and 31 days – so the date only has to be corrected once a year, on March 1.
Movement
Automatic, CFB 1972 caliber, diameter 30 mm, height 7.3 mm, 47 jewels, power reserve 42 hours
Functions
Chronograph: minutes and seconds counters, annual calendar, big date, hour, minute, small seconds, tachymeter scale
Case
Stainless steel, double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, water-resistant to 30 m (3 bar), diameter 41 mm, height 14.15 mm
Dial
Silver colored with light blue counters and tachymeter zone, 10 Arabic numerals (of which the 12 and 6 are chrome colored)
Strap
Stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp and quick release system, additional calfskin leather strap with quick release system and stainless steel pin-lock folding clasp
The Marine Torpilleur model, launched in 2017, is an archetype of Ulysse Nardin’s roots and history, joining the long line of illustrious Marine chronometers of the 19th century. Celebrating its 175th anniversary this year, the Swiss watch manufacture unveiled seven new models of the Marine Torpilleur during the Geneva Watch Days 2021.
These precision instruments all bear the codes of historical Marine Chronometers, such as the fluted bezel, roman numerals and the double counter. Each model, equipped with a silicium escapement, has a distinctive look and its own design, bearing the legacy and codes of the brand’s history.
Along with the Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel – the icon of the collection – these include the Panda, the Moonphase (white and blue versions), the Annual Chronograph (white and blue versions), and the Tourbillon Grand Feu Enamel black in rose gold.
The above mentioned watches are produced in limited editions and bear the signature “Chronometry since 1846” at 6o’clock on the small seconds counter and a lightened minutes circle compared to the core collection.
Set with an Alligator leather strap, they are all compatible with the R-strap, made from recycled fishing fishing nets.
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel
This new Marine Torpilleur watch has a magnificent Ulysse Nardin blue in-house enamelled dial made using the Grand Feu technique.
Thanks to the company’s collaboration with Donzé Cadrans, an independent enamelling workshop based in Le Locle, Switzerland, acquired by the manufacture in 2011, the manufacture has been able to constantly innovate and improve on this artisanal technique, which requires that over 90% of the process to be done by hand.
Ulysse Nardin masters this metier d’art, including the technique of Grand Feu enamel and cloisonné, in which a design is created by filling in a wire outline with colored enamels.
The Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel stainless steel watch with a blue Grand Feu enamel dial is limited to 175 pieces.
Technical details
References
1183-310LE-3AE-175/1A (with brown strap)
1183-310LE-3AE-175/1B (with blue strap)
Movement
Caliber UN-118 Manufacture, COSC automatic movement
Balance spring in Silicium
Escapement wheel& anchor in Diamonsil
260 components
50 jewels
Frequency: 4 Hz / oscillations 28’800 V/H
Power reserve: 60 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Case
Stainless steel polished & satin-finish case / fluted bezel
Open sapphire case back
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.73 mm
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial
New blue Grand Feu enamel dial by Donzé Cadrans
Double counters with power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and small seconds with date at 6 o’clock “Chronometry since 1846” signature on the small second counter
Rhodium-finish hands
Strap
Brown or blue alligator leather strap Compatible with R-STRAP / rubber strap / metal bracelet
Stainless steel deployant buckle
Limited edition
175 pieces
Price
10’900 CHF / 10’000 € / 11’500 $
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Panda
The Marine Torpilleur Panda model, with two small dark blue dials within the dial (one that contains the power reserve indicator and one that houses the second hand and date) is a unique design at Ulysse Nardin.
It is for the first time that the manufacture has used this design. The varnished Panda dial with rhodium-finished hands bears the insignia “Chronometry since 1846” on the bottom ring that houses the seconds hand. It uses Silicium and DIAMonSIL technology and runs thanks to the UN-118 movement.
Limited to 300 pieces only, the 42mm diameter Marine Torpilleur Panda comes with a choice of a brown or blue leather alligator strap, metal bracelet, a rubber strap or an R-Strap.
Technical details
Reference: 1183-310LE-0A-175/1A (Brown strap)
Movement
CaliberUN-118 Manufacture, COSC automatic movement
Balance spring in Silicium
Escapement wheel& anchor in Diamonsil
260 components
50 jewels
Frequency: 4 Hz / oscillations 28’800 V/H
Power reserve: 60 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Case
Stainless steel polished & satin-finish case / fluted bezel
Open sapphire case back
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.13 mm
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial
Varnished Panda dial
Double counters with power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and small seconds with date at 6 o’clock
“Chronometry since 1846” signature on the small second counter
Rhodium-finish hands
Strap
Brown or blue alligator leather strap
Compatible with R-STRAP / rubber strap / metal bracelet
Stainless steel deployant buckle
First produced from 1936 to 1980, the Ulysse Nardin Chronograph Marine Torpilleur pocket watches of that time featured the ability to read time down to 1/10th of a second.
Used during the 1936 Berlin Olympics, this precision transformed timekeeping. These chronographs, employed by automobile clubs, geodesic commissions, and scientists on expeditions, were delivered with official certification that guaranteed their extreme precision.
The 2021 version includes a varnished white or a mat blue dial, and the UN-153 Manufacture movement, which is an evolution of the earlier UN-150 movement.
The white dial is adorned with silvered, small counters and the annual calendar, which sits at 9o’clock just above the signature, verifying that Ulysse Nardin has been the leader in “Chronometry since 1846”.
An invention by Ludwig Oechslin, the annual calendar system employed in the perpetual calendar model of 1996 has been improved, with all settings adjustable both forward and backward by using the crown, making it easy to set time and date.
Each dial version of the Marine Torpilleur Annual Chronograph is limited to 300 pieces.
Technical details
References
Blue version with brown strap: 1533-320LE-3A-175/1A
Blue version with blue strap: 1533-320LE-3A-175/1B
White version with brown strap: 1533-320LE-0A-175/1A
White version with blue strap: 1533-320LE-0A-175/1B
Movement
Caliber UN-153 Manufacture, automatic movement
Escapement wheel, balance spring & anchor in Silicium
406 components
53 jewels
Frequency: 4 Hz / oscillations 28’800 V/H
Power reserve: 52 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, small second, date
Chronograph (H-M-S) & annual calendar
Case
Stainless steel polished & satin-finish case
Fluted bezel
Open sapphire case back
Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 13.66 mm
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial
Blue mat PVD dial or white varnished dial with silvered small counters Chronograph counter at 3 o’clock
Annual calendar and small second at 9 o’clock
“Chronometry since 1846” signature (B) Rhodium-finish and beige colored hands or (W) blued and red hands
Strap
Brown or blue alligator leather strap
Compatible with R-STRAP
Stainless steel deployant buckle
Ulysse Nardin has been producing watches with moonphase display since the end of the 19th century. The moonphase is a complication that is at the heart of every astronomical instrument, as the phases of the moon control the tides, hence navigation.
The Marine Torpilleur Moonphase watch comes with either a blue or white dial. Each dial version is limited to 300 pieces.
Technical details
References
Blue version with blue strap: 1193-310LE-3A-175/1A
Blue version with brown strap: 1193-310LE-3A-175/1B
White version with blue strap: 1193-310LE-0A-175/1A
White version with brown strap: 1193-310LE-0A-175/1B
Movement
CaliberUN-119 Manufacture, COSC automatic movement
Balance spring in Silicium
Escapement wheel& anchor in Diamonsil
222 components
45 jewels
Frequency: 4 Hz / oscillations 28’800 V/H
Power reserve: 60 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, moonphase
Case
Stainless steel polished & satin-finish case / fluted bezel
Open sapphire case back
Diameter: 42 mm, height: 11.13 mm
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial
Blue sun-brushed PVD dial or white varnished dial
Double counters with power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, small seconds and moon disc at 6 o’clock
The star of the night is made of a multi-layer decal that brings a lot of elegance and reflections when reveal on the Starry Sky made of blue PVD.
“Chronometry since 1846” signature on the small second counter(B) Rhodium-finish hands or (W) blued hands
Strap
Brown or blue alligator leather strap
Compatible with R-STRAP / rubber strap / metal bracelet
Stainless steel deployant buckle
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu
The Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu in rose gold has an open sapphire caseback and is completed by a fluted bezel. The black Grand Feu enamel dial by Donzé Cadrans features a power reserve display at 12o’clock. The rose gold hands tell the time.
With a diameter of 42mm and water resistant to 50 meters, this timepiece comes with a black alligator strap. It is also compatible with a rubber strap or an R-Strap. The rose gold deployable buckle makes for ease in securing this timepiece.
The calibre UN-128 Constant manufacture and automatic movement also incorporates the flying tourbillon complication. This patented UN Constant Escapement Tourbillon won the Tourbillon Watch Prize at the annual 2015 GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) award ceremony.
The Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu is a limited edition of 175 pieces.
Technical details
Reference: 1282-310LE-2AE-175/1A
Movement
Caliber UN-128 Constant Manufacture, automatic movement
Escapement wheel, balance spring & anchor in Silicium
208 components
36 jewel
Frequency: 2.5 Hz / oscillations 18’000 V/H
Power reserve: 60 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes
Flying tourbillon with Ulysse Anchor Escapement (constant)/ Blades technology
Power reserve indicator
Case
Rose gold 5N polished & satin-finish case / fluted bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.93 mm
Open sapphire case back
Water resistance: 50 m
Dial
Black Grand Feu enamel dial by DonzéCadrans
Power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock
Rose gold-colored hands
Strap
Black alligator leather strap
Compatible with R-STRAP
Rubber strap
Rose gold 5N deployant buckle
Swiss master watchmaker LAURENT FERRIER has revisited his École Annual Calendar and created a new version with an attractive blue and orange color theme.
This new creation is available in a limited edition of only ten pieces, each of them numbered and engraved as “Série Atelier II”. The École- case of this timepiece is inspired by a watch made by Laurent during his studies at Watchmaking School.
The two-zone blue dial features a contrasting vertical satin-brushed centre, and circular satin-brushed hour ring. The École Annual Calendar Navy offers a more contemporary and sporting appearance compared to earlier versions. Typically associated with aviation or the navy, vibrant orange here adorns the 18K white gold hands, providing the timepiece with optimal legibility and a compelling look.
The time is indicated with LF iconic hands stamped in “Assegais” shape. A snailed small seconds dial placed at 6 o’clock gives character to the composition, while two bevelled apertures, positioned at 12 o’clock, display the day and the month. Finally, the date is indicated by a hand coated in white accompanied by vintage-inspired numerals, on the edge of the dial. The whole offers the full array of information required for daily life while remaining uncluttered and with no unnecessary adornment.
This watch is equipped with an annual calendar complication, which recognises months with 30 and 31 days, progressing automatically to the 1st of the month as appropriate. Manual adjustment is required only once a year, on the 1st of March. The day display is easily set through a pusher on the left side of the case, at 10 o’clock. All the other settings are easily controlled by a pull of the crown and rotating it accordingly, with no need for any tools.
The École case also pays tribute to period pocket watches, from the time when pioneer watchmakers began transforming them into wristwatches. The “Série Atelier II” will be the last reissue of this case, since LAURENT FERRIER has decided to realign his collection by focusing on iconic cases: the Classic, the Square and the Grand Sport. As always, the “ball”-shaped crown, the emblematic signature of the Maison, offers all the ease of a smooth and very pleasant winding.
The calibre 126.01 is at the heart of the “Série Atelier II”. This hand-wound movement incorporates a Swiss lever escapement and offers a power reserve of up to 80 hours. The power reserve indicator is placed on the movement and visible on the caseback. The long-blade ratchet, characteristic of LAURENT FERRIER manual movements, here has a polished bassiné finish, handcrafted in the brand’s own workshops.
Admirable through the sapphire crystal caseback, various finishing details of the movement represent the pinnacle of traditional fine watchmaking. Each bridge is adorned with spotless Côtes de Genève decoration, and ruthenium plating. The plate is embellished with beading while the edges and inner edges are chamfered and then polished by hand, just like the screw heads.
The LAURENT FERRIER École Annual Calendar Navy watch is presented on a hand-sewn bracelet in orange or navy Nubuck leather with a navy Alcantara lining.
The “Série Atelier II” is a limited edition of only ten pieces, available exclusively from Atelier LAURENT FERRIER on their website.
Technical details
Model: LAURENT FERRIER École Annual Calendar Navy
Série Atelier II – Limited edition of 10 pieces
REF: LCF025.AC.C2WO
Movement
Manual-winding LF126.01 calibre
Swiss lever escapement
Screw balance
Semi-instantaneous calendar
Semi-instantaneous counters for days and months
Clockwise and anti-clockwise calendar adjustment in the middle position
Diameter: Ø 31.60 mm (14’’’)
Thickness: 5.80 mm
Frequency: 3Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
Power reserve: 80 hours
Number of components: 235
Number of jewels: 23
Indicators
Central hours and minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock, power reserve indicator on the movement side
Date: Central hands for the date
Day disc and month disc (automatic adjustment for 30- and 31-day months) – Only one correction necessary on 1 March
Case
Stainless steel
Dimension: Ø 40 mm diameter
Thickness: 10mm (12.64 mm on sapphire)
Water resistant to 30 metres
Crown: stainless steel “Boule”-shaped
Dial
Galvanic blue vertical satin-brushed in the centre and circular satin-brushed hour ring
Vintage-inspired date numerals and grey powder-coated hour ring and “31” in light blue
Small seconds at 6 o’clock, with circular satin-brushed outer ring and fine azurage in the centre
Bevelled counters for days and months at 12 o’clock
Hands
18K/750 white gold 210 Pd
Hour and minute: orange-coated,”Assegai”-shaped
Seconds: orange-coated, “Baton” type
White-coated, ”Assegai”-shaped date
Strap
Choice of hand-sewn navy or orange Nubuck leather, navy Alcantara lining
Stainless steel pin buckle
Equipped with an elegant chronograph and annual calendar, the Heritage BiCompax Annual by Carl F. Bucherer is a highly functional and utterly precise timepiece that celebrates the design and savoir faire of the early 1950s, harmoniously merging vintage charm with “Made of Lucerne” watchmaking art.
Now, two years after the original debut in 2019, the Lucerne-based watchmaker introduces a new contrasting version of its popular Heritage BiCompax Annual. Limited to only 888 pieces, this new version from the Heritage collection has a deep-black dial with silver-colored totalizators.
The Heritage collection is an ode to Carl F. Bucherer’s rich history and its roots in Lucerne, in the heart of Switzerland. In this exclusive line of timepieces that are only manufactured in limited editions, unique design and traditional craftsmanship meet sophisticated complications and the finest materials. The launch of the Heritage Tourbillon Double Peripheral in rose gold in New York in 2018 was the kick start for the Heritage collection.
In 2019, Carl F. Bucherer introduced the Heritage BiCompax Annual watch in two versions: an elegant bi-colour variant (rose gold + stainless steel) and a sporty model in stainless steel with the “panda design.”
Again, an archival piece dating back to circa 1950 served as inspiration for the Heritage BiCompax. The elegant chronograph combines the vintage flair of the watch that inspired it with contemporary features, such as a 41 mm stainless-steel case. The new edition of course also features the BiCompax dial design of its retro predecessor: two symmetrically arranged silver-colored chronograph counters are positioned on the horizontal central axis on the deep-black galvanized dial, framed by a tachymeter scale.
Thereby, the new edition of the Heritage BiCompax reverses the color concept of the first stainless-steel model, which featured a white dial and black totalizators, also referred to as the “panda design,” making the new timepiece a so-called “reversed panda.”
The black calfskin leather strap with silver-colored stitching perfectly complements the design of the dial. The new timepiece is also available on a sporty and comfortable rubber strap. The new Heritage BiCompax Annual is again limited to 888 pieces, as a nod to Carl F. Bucherer’s founding year of 1888.
The Heritage BiCompax Annual is powered by an ultramodern automatic movement (The CFB 1972 caliber) with 42 hours of power reserve. The new version also features an annual calendar and a large date display that takes the different month lengths – 28, 30, and 31 days – into account, which means it would only need to be corrected during a leap year.
Movement
Automatic, CFB 1972 caliber, diameter 30 mm, height 7.3 mm, 47 jewels, power reserve 42 hours
Functions
Chronograph: minutes and seconds counters
Annual calendar with big date
Hour, minute, small seconds
Tachymeter scale
Case
Stainless steel case
Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 14.15 mm
Double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm)
Dial
Black with silver-colored counters
Strap
Calfskin leather strap or rubber strap with stainless-steel folding pin buckle
Parmigiani Fleurier expands its popular Tonda collection by adding a sportier, everyday watch model, the new Tonda GT line.
Parmigiani Fleurier’s dress watches have long been revered among collectors for their elegance and fine craftsmanship, the result of its in-house manufacturing prowess combined with Michel Parmigiani’s master watchmaking talent and commitment to excellence. This commitment continues in this new introduction, a line designed to appeal to the modern gentleman looking for a watch he can wear on every occasion.
The new Tonda GT Line offers three distinct sporty, yet elegant timepieces in polished and satin-finished stainless steel or 18-ct rose gold, embodying Parmigiani’s years of expertise and design ethos following golden ratio parameters.
The case shape is inspired by the Tonda Chronor watch, which was awarded the Chronograph Watch Prize from the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2017. Parmigiani Fleurier worked with watch designer, Dino Modolo, to reinterpret its design codes, resulting in a reimagined case with updated lugs and an integrated bracelet ergonomically designed for ultimate comfort.
Its fluted bezel recalls another Parmigiani Fleurier icon- the Toric collection- and the dials are finished with traditional “cloutriangulaire” guilloché. All watches are available on a polished and satin-finished bracelet or on a rubber strap with a motif that recalls the finishing on the dial.
The Tondagraph GT is powered by the PF043 automatic caliber and combines two useful complications- an annual calendar and a chronograph.
The dial displays a wealth of information and remains legible: it has delta-shaped hands with black luminescent coating indicating hours and minutes, a small second, two subdials for the chronograph function, and a big date aperture at 12 o’clock. To draw attention to the annual calendar function, the date and month are displayed in a vibrant orange color.
This impressive watch is water resistant to 100m, has a screw-down crown, a 45-hour power reserve, and is finely finished with Côtes de Genève stripes visible through the open caseback. The Tondagraph GT is limited to 200 pieces.
Two additional models will accompany this new launch, the Tonda GT Black and the Tonda GT Rose Gold Blue. The beauty of the guilloche decoration shines through on these dials, which have a big date aperture at 12 o’clock and a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock.
They are powered by the PF044 automatic movement, which is finely finished, has a power reserve of 45 hours, and is water resistant to 100m via a screw-down crown.
The 18-ct rose-gold model is particularly stunning when paired with its sporty blue rubber strap matching the dial and the Tonda GT Steel easily transforms into a sportier watch when paired with its black rubber strap.
The Tonda GT Rose Gold Blue is limited to 150 pieces, while the steel model is limited to 250 pieces.
After the success of the prototype’s sale at the Only Watch auction, F.P.Journe presents the final version: Astronomic Souveraine. It is a grand complication watch in a steel case, housing 18 complications including tourbillon and minute repeater. This exceptional creation was unveiled on 14 November in Tokyo at first flagship boutique of the brand.
The Astronomic Blue, the prototype of this grand complication, developed specifically for Only Watch 2019 Charity auction, was sold for the amount of CHF 1’800’000.-, a new world record for an F.P.Journe watch.
The 18 carat rose Gold movement of the Astronomic Souveraine is totally novel and very finely decorated. The white Gold dial, whose sub-dials are embellished with clou de Paris decoration, and the moon phases, with a hyper realistic moon that was traced from a NASA photograph.
At 3, there is the mean time (or civil time) dial, with a blue hand indicating a second time zone. At 9, there is the sidereal time dial, which allows the observation of the stars. Next to it, the mean time seconds are shown on a disc. Between the two are the central minutes and the power reserve indication, which remains optimal up to 40 h. Above all this is a blue aperture showing the sunrise and sunset. Here, metal shutters lengthen or shorten the days.
On the reverse there is the equation of time and a full annual calendar encircled by the signs of the zodiac. It is on this side that the dance of the tourbillon may be admired. In all, this watch, which also strikes the hours, the quarters and the minutes, possesses 18 functions and complications.
It is made up of 758 components, in addition to the case. However, the case is no larger than 44 mm in diameter and 13.80 mm thick. Only a very few pieces of the Astronomic Souveraine will be produced each year.
Technical Specifications
Movement
Calibre 1619
Manual winding (34 turns of crown)
In 18K rose Gold
Power reserve: 40h
Dimensions of the Movement
Overall diameter: 37.00mm
Cased-up diameter: 36.40mm
Height movement: 10.75mm
Height of winding stem: 4.59mm
Diameter of stem thread: S1.20mm
Main Characteristics
Tourbillon with remontoir d’égalité
Minute repeater
Sidereal hours and minutes
2nd time zone
Moon phases
Annual calendar
Equation of time
Sunrise and sunset
Natural dead-beat second
All settings via the crown
Indications
Front: Hours and 2nd time zone at 3
Minutes in the centre
Sunrise and sunset at 12
Sidereal hours and minutes at 9
Power reserve at 6
Moon phases at 5
Second on disc at 7
Back
Equation of time in the center
Annual calendar at 10
Escapement
15 teeth escape wheel
90° Anchor fork
Decorations
Circular waves on bridges
Partly circular grained baseplate
Polished screw heads and chamfered slots
Pegs with polished rounded ends
Case
Steel
Diameter: 44.00mm
Total height: 13.80mm
Number of parts
Movement without dial: 758
Cased on leather strap: 817
Jewels: 68
To support the Only Watch 2019 charity auction, F.P.Journe donates a unique prototype of its proposed Astronomic grand complication watch. The unique movement, the unique blue chrome dial and its unique case in Tantalum makes the F.P.Journe Astronomic Blue a masterpiece horological creation.
This grand complication watch incorporates 18 complications including tourbillon, minute repeater, equation of time, sidereal time, sunrise and sunset, moon phases, 2nd time-zone and annual calendar.
Technical details
Case
Case in Tantalum, unique piece developed exclusively for Only Watch
Diameter: 44 mm / Thickness: 13.75 mm
Dial
Blue chrome dial, unique example developed exclusively for Only Watch, with Silver parts.
Indications
Front side: Hours, minutes and seconds of average time, 2nd time zone, Hours and minutes of sidereal time, Sunrise and sunset, Day and night indication, Moon phases and Power reserve
Back side: Annual calendar and Equation of time
Movement
Exclusive manual winding prototype calibre 1619 in 18K rose gold.
Double barrel, minute repeater, tourbillon with « Remontoir d’égalité » performing a complete rotation in 60 seconds, dead-beat second.
Functions and complications: 18
This innovative mechanical timepiece from Swiss luxury watch brand KENNSEN incorporates two popular horological complications: Chronograph and Annual Calendar.
Despite the complexity involved in such complication watches, Kennsen’s Annual Calendar Chronograph is simple to use, thanks to an innovative mechanism that overcomes the difficulty of building an entirely new complication in the confines of the chronograph’s reduced space.
Designed in-house, Kennsen’s Annual Calendar mechanism drives a date indicator at 3 o’clock, a month indicator, which is in the same plane as the date and on the left of the central axis, and a legible but unobtrusive Day/Night display positioned in the minute counter subdial to aid adjustment.
For this timepiece, KENNSEN has developed a co-axial calendar system in which the month wheel and display are co-axial to a special pipe built around the central axis of the watch. The month wheel itself then acts as an axis around which the co-axial year wheel turns. The year wheel governs the system though a unique internal tooth.
Protected by two patents, this new design concept ensures simplicity, low part count, svelte dimensions and very efficient performance. The svelte dimensions (30.0mm in diameter and 1.3mm in height) ensure that the watch is comfortable to wear. The few moving parts ensure efficient performance. The calendar is easily adjustable by the crown and ensures ease of use.
Kennsen Annual Calendar Chronograph is equipped with the Calibre KV775C, the in-house movement based on the iconic Valjoux 7750 self-winding movement.
The movement is adjusted to a tolerance up to -2 to +6 seconds per day and in five positions. The movement is finely decorated with Côtes-de-Genève and snailing on the plates. Movement screws have been replaced to complement these finishes. The matt and anthracite finishing of the rotor adds an interesting counterpoint to the plates.
The Day/Night display complication shows whether the watch is synchronised to a.m. (white) or p.m. (dark). It insures that the watch is set correctly, thus avoiding the irritation of a date change at noon. Referencing the Day/Night display before a manual date adjustment can also prevent damage to the watch as manual date adjustments should not be undertaken during the dark night hours when the gears are in mesh.
Designed in house by Kennsen and manufactured in Switzerland by Victorinox Company, the watch case measures 42mm diameter; 49mm across the lugs; 13.4mm height. Crafted from superior quality of stainless steel (316L1.4435 grade), the watch case ensures ease of use while wrist-friendly lugs provide a comfortable and secure fit. The case has a water-resistance of 50 metres / 165 feet.
The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal in the case-back gives a view of the movement and rotor. Each watch is individually numbered. The pusher sleeves are a rarely seen touch and are horizontally brushed by hand.
While the front and back bezels are hand-polished, a horizontal brushing (also by hand) has been given to the case-middle. The case chamfers provide a sporty yet elegant feel.
Manufactured in Porrentruy in Switzerland, the large and well proportioned dials come in either black or Kennsen Palladium shades. The special galvanic treatment gives the dials their depth and changing light conditions bring different nuances to the dials.
The indices are applied, and the dial itself has three levels with circular grain and matt finishing. The outer ring has a telemeter scale in miles and kilometres. The useful Day/Night display is positioned inside the minute counter. The date is at 3 o’clock and the month to the left of the main axis.
The Kennsen Annual Calendar Chronograph is fitted with a custom made and top grade alligator leather strap hand-crafted by Hirsch. Each Kennsen watch is delivered in a hand-made leather wallet.
Technical details
Model: Kennsen Annual Calendar Chronograph
Functions
Chronograph function with hours, minutes, seconds
Timekeeping with hours, minutes, small seconds
Annual Calendar with date and month displays
Telemeter in miles and kilometres
Crown adjustable
Hacking small seconds
Day/Night display
Movement
Calibre KV775C Automatic
48 hr power reserve
Frequency: 28’800 vph (4 Hz)
25 Jewels
Case
Three-part hand-polished and brushed stainless steel
Diameter: 42.0 mm
Height: 13.4mm
Lugs: 49.0 mm
Rectangular pushers with hand-brushed sleeves
Front glass: Domed, anti-reflective, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
Case back: Flat scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 5 ATM
Dial
Three level dial with galvanic plating and matt finishing
Raised, sun-ray bushed telemeter scale
Sunk, circular brushed sub-dials
Applied indices
Strap
Top grade Alligator
20 mm at the lugs, 18 mm at the buckle
Hands
Galvanic Rhodium treatment
Black polished
Radius cut
Laurent Ferrier presents new blue dial version of the Galet Annual Calendar School Piece. This timepiece, available in red gold or stainless steel, features a 40mm case and houses a manual wound movement.
Its blue galvanic dial with vertical satin brushed finish features an inner hour circle for time display, vintage-inspired Arabic numerals painted in white 1-30 and in red for 31 representing dates, small seconds dial at 6 o´clock, with a circular satin brushed outer circle and snailed in the center, and bevelled day and month apertures below 12’o clock.
Through the sapphire crystal case back, the movement can be admired. The power reserve indicator is also placed on the back side. The watch comes fitted with a blue alligator leather strap featuring Alcantara lining and pin buckle or a double blade folding clasp.
Movement
• Manual winding calibre LF126.01.
• Swiss lever escapement.
• Balance Screw.
• Movement diameter: 31.60 mm (14´´´).
• Thickness: 5.80 mm.
• Frequency: 3Hz (21´600 /H).
• Power reserve: 80 hours.
• Number of components: 235.
• Number of jewels: 23.
Indications
Hours and Minutes in the centre
Small seconds at 6 o´clock
Power reserve area indicator on the back side
Annual calendar:
– Calendar central hand.
– Day-disc and Month-disc (Automatic correction for months with 30 or 31 days. One correction on March 1st)
– Semi-instantaneous calendar. Days and month semi-instantaneous apertures.
Correctors
Crown for winding, time-setting, calendar central hand and months. Push button at 10 o´clock for days of the week.
Correction forward / backward of the calendar on intermediate position
Case
• 18K/750 5N red gold or stainless steel
• Size: 40 mm diameter
• Thickness: 10.10 mm or 12.80 mm including the sapphire crystal
• Domed sapphire crystals, front and back
• Water resistant to 30 meters
• “Ball-shaped” crown in 18K/750 5N red gold or stainless steel
Dial
• Blue Galvanic
• Hours circle powdered silver
• Vintage-inspired numerals painted in white 1-30 and in red for 31
• Vertical satin brushed finish
• Small second at 6 o´clock, with a circular satin brushed outer circle and snailed in the center
• Bevelled day and month apertures.
• LF logo powdered silver
Hands
• 18K/750 210Pd white gold
• Hours and minutes: “Assegai-shaped”, painted in white
• Seconds: baton-type with counterweight, painted in white
• Date: painted in red
Strap
Blue alligator leather Alcantara lining.
Pin buckle or a double blade folding clasp.
Launched in platinum in 2015, Ref. 5905 unites two Patek Philippe complications beloved of connoisseurs: a self-winding flyback chronograph and a patented Annual Calendar.
The manufacture is now enriching its collection with a new version of this model in a rose gold case with a brown sunburst dial shading gently to black at the periphery.
The dial’s design combines the technical look of an instrument for measuring short times with the timeless elegance of a Patek Philippe.
It features three-face Dauphine hour and minute hands with a luminescent coating, rose-gold applied hour-markers, and luminous dots marking the five-minute points.
The sandblasted sweep seconds-hand counts the seconds for the chronograph, while the large subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock totalizes the minutes from 1 to 60. The three apertures for the day, the date and the month are arranged along an arc with a day/ night indicator.
Within this timepiece beats the caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H selfwinding movement, comprising 402 parts.
The Annual Calendar, based on the Patek Philippe patent of 1996, automatically takes account of months of 30 and 31 days and requires correction only once a year, on March 1st.
The chronograph remains true to the traditional column wheel for transmission of the start, stop and reset commands. But instead of the horizontal wheel clutch it uses a vertical disk clutch.
Since this solution is virtually friction-free, the center chronograph hand can also serve as a permanently running seconds hand without affecting the rate accuracy of the movement. That is why Patek Philippe decided not to include the usual small seconds dial in its self-winding chronograph models.
The new Ref. 5905R-001 takes its place alongside the existing models in platinum with blue or black dials (references 5905P-010 and 5905P-001).
Technical details
Model: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar with Flyback Chronograph Ref. 5905R-001, Rose Gold Case and Brown Sunburst Dial
Dial
Brown sunburst, black gradated, gold applied hour markers
Rose gold three-face Dauphine hands with luminescent coating
Case
Rose gold
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 14.03 mm
Water-resistant to 30 m
Sapphire crystal case back
Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny black
Prong buckle
Movement
Caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H
Self-winding
Flyback chronograph
Central chronograph hand
60-minute counter
Annual Calendar
Day, date, month, day/night indication displayed in apertures
Diameter: 33 mm
Height: 7.68 mm
Number of parts: 402
Winding rotor: central rotor in 21K gold
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 45 hours – max. 55 hours
Displays
Hour hand
Minute hand
Chronograph hand (sweep seconds)
Subsidiary dial: 60-minute counter
Apertures: Day of the week; Date; Month and Day/night indication
Pushers
Chronograph start and stop
Chronograph hand reset and flyback
Correctors
Day-of-week correction
Date correction
Month correction
In 2010, Patek Philippe united sporting spirit and technical sophistication in a Nautilus watch for men endowed with an Annual Calendar, a moon-phase display and a 24-hour indicator. This Ref. 5726A in steel on a leather strap has since been joined by others with a steel bracelet.
Now the manufacture is reinterpreting that steel-bracelet version by fitting it with an elegant blue dial (the color on the original Nautilus model of 1976). The horizontal embossing and the subtle shading from blue to black at the dial’s periphery create a powerful but refined decor that complements the sheen of the steel.
The hours and minutes are indicated with applied white-gold hour markers and hands highlighted with a luminescent coating, accompanied by a slender sweep seconds hand.
This elegantly sporty exterior, water-resistant to 120 m, conceals a caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/303 self-winding movement comprising 347 parts.
The Annual Calendar, patented by Patek Philippe in 1996, displays the day and the month in two in-line apertures at 12 o’clock and the date in an aperture at 6 o’clock.
