Swiss watchmaker DAVOSA’s origins can be trace back to 1861. To mark its 140 years of watchmaking history, the brand created a limited edition series of its well-liked Argonautic diver’s watch.
Dressed in a Forged carbon case, this special edition is strictly limited to 140 pieces per dial colour series. Typically used in aviation and aerospace, Forged carbon combines the exceptional qualities of metal and ceramic: making the case lightweight, highly resilient and extremely corrosion-resistant.
The screw-down case back displays a historic diving helmet in relief as well as the limited edition number. Equipped with a screw-in crown and a manual helium valve, watch offers water-resistance to a depth of 300 metres (30 ATM). Inside the case, a concealed DAV3021 Swiss automatic movement ticks away reliably.
Another style-defining feature of the Argonautic Carbon Limited Edition is the use of luminous pigment Super-LumiNova®. In neon orange or neon yellow, it adorns the skeletonised hands, numerals and the first quarter of an hour on the satined, circular ceramic bezel, ensuring excellent contrast during the day as well as good visibility at night.
Each timepiece is equipped with an integrated rubber strap with a folding clasp and diving extension. A second, interchangeable NATO flex strap is included in the exclusive wooden box, along with the limited certificate, to add a touch of variety.
Case
Forged carbon case and part stainless steel with black PVD plating
Case diameter: Ø 43 mm
Case thickness: 13.5 mm
Screwed crown and back
Scratch-resistant, anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Manual helium valve
Water resistance to 300 metres (30 ATM)
Dial
Orange or yellow
Super-LumiNova® in neon orange or neon yellow on indices, hands and the first quarter hour marking on the ceramic bezel inlay
Date at 3H
Strap
Black rubber strap with folding clasp plus additional Nato flex strap
Strap lugs: 22 mm
ochs und junior presents settimana next, a brand new weekday watch designed by Ludwig Oechslin.
Dressed in a Grade 5 Titanium case, this automatic timepiece is available in two sizes: Ø 36 mm and Ø 40 mm. It has a minimalistic black dial. A violet dot moves clockwise across the 7 blue “weekday” dots (starting at the 1 o‘clock position and ending at the 7 o‘clock position) highlighting the specific day of the week.
The settimana is powered by Sellita’s SW 200-1 automatic movement. This timepiece is produced and assembled by ochs und junior in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
The ochs und junior settimana watch highlights the 7 days of the week by way of a rotating dot located between 1 o’clock (Monday) to 7 o’clock (Sunday). At the beginning of the week, the dot moves quickly to cover the 8 to 12 o’clock segment, restarting the new week each Monday morning. The 7-weekday module invented by Dr. Ludwig Oechslin contains a brass dial with functional back, a gear with weekday display (point), a triple function wheel and a transmission wheel.
Technical details
Case
Made from two parts designed by Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, available in grade 5 Titanium
Visible machining and milling traces
Dimensions available in Ø 36 or 40 mm
10.8 mm thickness
Weight 55-57 Gram
Screw-down crown made of titanium, designed Dr. Ludwig Oechslin
Glass: Sapphire crystal by Stettler in Lyss/Switzerland
Water Resistance 50m (5bar)
Movement
Base Movement SW 200-1 by Sellita SA, La Chaux-de-Fonds
Straps
Textile straps handmade by Sabina Brägger
Buckle: 22mm width in titanium designed by Dr. Ludwig Oechslin
Dial
Black dial
Hour, minute and second hands with Swiss Super-LumiNova® in white
Origins
Swiss Made
Warranty
The entire watch is covered by a 2-year guarantee
Retail price/delivery
CHF 2‘500 — incl. 7.7% VAT
CHF 2’300 — Export price.
Delivery of the watch: 8-12 weeks
Artisans de Genève unveils The “Amstrong” project, the bespoke watch created by its talented craftsmen for Lance Armstrong.
The base model chosen for this custom project was Rolex ® 116520 Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona. The mission was to return to the origins of watchmaking by blending forgotten codes— a pulsation dial and manual winding — with a modern design.
Inspired by Lance Armstrong’s open-book style life, Artisans de Genève skeletonised the 4130 caliber, before being sandblasted and beveled by hand.
The craftsmen also developed a manual winding mechanism that allows each element of the movement to be seen. The power reserve is identical to the original 72-hour caliber.
The balance bridge, an essential detail of the movement, is handcrafted with a black matt finish. The front of the personalization reveals a pulse dial, with dual counters at 3h and 6h, recalling the first velocipede.
Technical details
Base: Rolex ® 116520
Dial: Openwork, dual counters 3h-6h, pulse graduation
Hours & minute hands: Sandblasted & polished
Seconds hands: Yellow thunder tip
Bezel: Black ceramic, polished, yellow tachymeter inscription
Movement: 4130 skeletonized, beveled and polished by hand, manual winding mechanism. Black Matte finish
Balance bridge: Hand mirror-polished
Strap: Rubber by Rubber B, yellow line.
Waterproof: 100m
Disclaimer: Artisans de Genève is an independent company specialized in the personalization of timepieces. It is not affiliated with ROLEX SA nor authorized by them to intervene on their products for any reason whatsoever. This personalization was ordered by a customer, who owns a Rolex® timepiece, for his private use.
Porsche Design expands its Sport Chrono collection with new 39mm watches.
In 2020, Porsche Design launched the Sport Chrono Collection, a new collection inspired by the instrument cluster of the Porsche Design Sport Chrono package. It combines classic design features, materials and performance characteristics of Porsche sports cars and transfers them directly into a wristwatch. While the first generation of the Sport Chrono Collection debuted in a 42- millimeter titanium case, the new models feature a diameter of 39 millimeters – a first for Porsche Design.
When the legendary Porsche 911 was first launched in 1963, the dashboard instruments included an electric timepiece as part of the 5-tube instruments. In the early 2000s, Porsche added an additional central instrument that was placed prominently in the middle. Initially displaying lap times, it was continuously refined to provide additional control functions for various engine and chassis components as well as the exhaust system. As part of this “Sport Chrono Package,” it was not a classic three-hand clock on the dashboard, but rather an instrument with a digital display and a single hand.
In 2020, the Sport Chrono package was expanded to include an exclusive chronograph from Porsche Design, the Porsche Design Subsecond clock. Offered in manufacture assembly, featuring a high- end metal dial with radial cut, ceramic indices with Superluminova coating and metal hands, the analog chronograph creates sporty and elegant accents in the cockpit. The specially developed incident-light technology ensures optimum readability inside the car – from every angle, at all times. The Porsche Design Sport Chrono package is currently available in the Porsche Panamera and Taycan models.
For the first time, Porsche Design has chosen a case diameter of less than 40 millimeters, which lends the models an even more elegant aesthetic and appeals to watch lovers with smaller wrists. The Sport Chrono Subsecond models with running seconds at 6 o’clock are powered by the Porsche Design caliber WERK 03.200 with COSC certification.
The automatic movement is equipped with the Porsche Design Icon rotor, which guarantees powerful winding. The timepieces are available with a black, blue or brown dial and color-coordinated leather straps made of genuine Porsche car leather.
Additional features of characteristic Porsche Design are the seven-fold anti-reflective sapphire crystal with hard coating, the high-quality leather strap made of genuine Porsche leather and the titanium folding clasp with safety pushers.
The lineup of the new Porsche Design 39 millimeter Sport Chrono wristwatch collection is available at a starting price of 4,450.00 euro (RRP).
Porsche Design has launched an all black edition of its 1919 Globetimer UTC watch.
Introduced two years ago, Porsche Design’s 1919 Globetimer UTC is a GMT watch that offers intelligent functionality, optimized legibility, and convenient, easy operation. Previously available in three different color variants, the chronometer-certified timepiece features black titanium carbide coating and a black leather strap made of Porsche interior leather.
Derived from the simple and precise handling of the Porsche double-clutch transmission, the display of the world’s 24 time zones can be adjusted in 1-hour increments – without the loss of the current time display – by simply pressing the form-fitting push-button which is ergonomically embedded into the case.
Each push of this button causes the short, local-time, hour hand to advance clockwise one position. When flying east, each push of the “+” button advances the second time zone by an interval of one hour. When flying west, pressing the “–” button causes the UTC hands to move in the opposite direction. All the while, the UTC hands automatically move, remaining in synchrony.
To ensure this occurs at midnight and not at noon, the time needs to be set correctly just once. A circular window on the left-hand side of the dial facilitates this task: a white dot appears here during daytime hours, while the aperture remains black at night. Porsche Design has also taken into account the reference time indicated by a second, and clearly distinguishable hour hand with a distinctive luminous tip. This hand turns once every twenty-four hours, displaying the home time.
Perfect legibility is another essential feature. To intuitively display the time from any viewing angle, the dial’s radius was designed to be as large as possible, while the titanium case was made uncommonly slim. Well-balanced styling imbues this watch with a unique lightness, further enhanced by the handsomely shaped wristband.
Color contrasts, distinctive hands, indices and numerals combine with the generous use of nonradioactive Super-LumiNova luminous material to minimize the chance of misreading, even in poor visibility conditions. In addition, a sevenfold antireflective coating and an extra hard-coated treatment protect the sapphire crystal.
The 1919 Globetimer UTC All Black is also powered by the Porsche Design Caliber Werk 04.110. The movement is equipped with a bidirectional winding rotor. It builds up a 38-hour power reserve with its balance paced at four hertz. The front of the caliber is equipped with an innovative time-zone mechanism specially developed by Porsche Design and manufactured by the Swiss complication specialist Dubois- Dépraz.
Before starting serial production, the mechanisms underwent several long-term tests in compliance with the strict criteria of Chronofiable®. The impact test’s candidates receive a blow equivalent to nearly 5,000 times their own weight, while each push-piece must withstand at least 10,000 switching cycles.
Before encasing, each movement must also prove its timekeeping accuracy for fifteen consecutive days at the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The caliber must not lose more than four, nor gain more than six seconds per day, throughout the fifteen- day trial. During this time, the movement undergoes testing in five different positions and at three different temperatures.
The 42-millimeter titanium case with a black titanium carbide coating perfectly pairs with the black leather strap made of high-quality Porsche car leather. The watch is water-resistant to 100 meters.
The 1919 Globetimer UTC All Black is available at a starting price of 6,250 EUR (RRP).
Vacheron Constantin revisits the fine historical traditions of Geneva watchmaking with the new Traditionnelle complete calendar openface watch. Boasting a new open-worked sapphire face, this new timepiece is available in two versions in 18K 5N pink gold and 18K white gold.
Classically inspired with its round case featuring a fluted back, its railway minute-track and its Dauphine-type hands, the Traditionnelle complete calendar openface model adopts an avant-garde profile. The open-worked sapphire dial reveals Calibre 2460 QCL/2, whose mainplate and bridges are highlighted by anthracite NAC treatment. The triple calendar display, complemented by a precision moon phase, gains in depth through its functional and contemporary style.
Combining contemporary design and watchmaking heritage, this new interpretation is reminiscent of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar model presented in 2019.
The Traditionnelle complete calendar openface watch proudly highlight characteristic features of the Traditionnelle collection – including the stepped round case and lugs, the fluted caseback, the slim bezel, the railway minute-track, the bi-facetted Dauphine-type hands and the gold baton-style hour-markers. The opening onto the movement structure is perfectly visible on both sides of the watch and features an anthracite grey colour achieved by NAC treatment.
Surrounded by a slate grey opaline flange on which a central hand points to the date, the upper part of the sapphire crystal dial features a likewise slate grey guilloché segment as well as applied gold hour-markers.
The resulting three-part dial overlooks the sapphire discs providing an aperture-type display of the days and months. The moon-phase disc, with its two realistic transferred depictions of Earth’s satellite, is also covered by a translucent sapphire mask. This airy construction provides a chance to admire the various movement components, including the bridges and mainplate featuring an original vertical upright finish on the front.
The “openface” design highlights the technical nature of the Traditionnelle complete calendar openface watch. This complication, also known as the triple calendar, indicates the date, day and month, complemented on these models by a moon phase.
Water-resistant to 30 metres, these two Traditionnelle complete calendar openface models are fitted with a calfskin-lined grey alligator strap secured by a pink or white gold pin buckle.
Technical details
Model: Traditionnelle complete calendar openface
References
4020T/000G-B655
4020T/000R-B654
Movement
Calibre 2460 QCL/2
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
29 mm (11¼’’’) diameter, 5.45 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
312 components
27 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications
Hours, minutes
Complete calendar (day of the week, date, month)
Precision moon phase
Case
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold
41 mm diameter, 10.7 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Dial
Assembled in three parts:
– Slate grey guilloche upper part
– Slate grey opaline flange
– Sapphire crystal with 18K gold hour-markers
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers, hour & minutes hands
18K gold blackened date hand with white crescent
Franck Muller has collaborated with Bamford Watch Department to create a limited edition Crazy Hours watch inspired by Snoopy.
This Snoopy-inspired Franck Muller Crazy Hours model is full of unique characteristics. Its dial spotlights Snoopy along with the unorthodox placement of numerical hour markers. The complex and clever mechanical movement which allows the hour hand to jump to the next in the correct order is further highlighted with Snoopy’s arms as the hour and minutes hands.
Snoopy’s faithful sidekick, Woodstock, features twice on the dial and surrounding Snoopy are luminous concentric circles bringing the dial even more to life when in the dark.
On a matte black stainless steel case, Snoopy and Woodstock are bold to the eye in black and white on a black dial with grey numerals and text. Paired with a black hand-sewn fabric strap, every part of this design has been carefully, and playfully, designed.
This 25-piece limited edition is housed in a unique box with a splash of colour highlighting the Crazy Hours design, as well as Snoopy and Woodstock making an appearance.
Technical details
Model: Crazy Hours Cintrée Curvex
Type: 8880 CH
Movement
MVD FM 2800-CHR, Self-winding movement with bidirectional rotor system, 42 hour power reserve, 274 components, 19 jewels, Balance wheel frequency set at 28,800 alternations per hour
Movement decoration
Côtes de Geneve and brushing soleil papier on the bridges, Circular graining on the two sides of the main plate, Chamfering of the bridges, 24k gold bath and rhodium plating of the component, 24k gold finish on the written engravings, Brushing soleil papier of the rotor ball bearing and on the barrel, Polished and blued screws
Case
Material: Matte Black Stainless Steel, Hand Brushed, Rhodium Plating
Crown: Matte Black Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire Crystal
Case diameter: 39.6mm
Thickness: 11.8mm
Caseback: Matte Black Stainless Steel
Water-resistance: 30 ATM
Dial
Lined Super Luminova, GL Black, Numerals meticulously painted and applied by hand
Functions
Uncoordinated jumping hours, minutes
Strap
Black Hand Sewn Fabric Strap
Buckle: Brushed Matte Black Stainless Steel, Hand Polished, Rhodium Plating
Vacheron Constantin has recently opened their first boutique outside of London, on Edinburgh’s Frederick Street.
In keeping with Vacheron Constantin’s high level of sophistication and commitment to outstanding customer service, this new boutique welcomes watch connoisseurs and collectors to discover the excellence, craftsmanship and heritage of the world’s oldest watch Manufacture in continuous production for over 265 years.
Vacheron Constantin’s other boutiques in the UK are on Old Bond Street and within the Fine Watch Room at Harrods, London.
The new boutique features a distinctive glass façade, which invites collectors and visitors to discover the Maison’s creativity and fine craftsmanship in a harmonious old-meets-new environment fitting the spirit of Vacheron Constantin’s contemporary watchmaking.
The impressive entrance leads to a refined interior which incorporates a sleek brass-toned design and modern elegance with the Maison’s new boutique design concept. A striking marquetry wall with Maltese cross motif creates a focal point on the ground floor that conveys Vacheron Constantin’s dedication to high watchmaking artistry. The contemporary first floor salon space is complimented by beautifully crafted historical features.
Demonstrating Vacheron Constantin’s limitless technical and aesthetic creativity, customers will be welcome to discover a variety of timepieces and calibres, from simple models to high complications, as well as exclusive editions.
This new Vacheron Constantin boutique is located at 3 Frederick Street, Edinburgh, EH2 2EY.
The Rotonda collection concludes a year of new mechanical timepieces to celebrate the 90th anniversary of Swiss watch brand Delbana.
The Rotonda takes inspiration from the Latin word rotunda, used to describe buildings with a circular ground plan, often covered by a dome. From early architectural marvels like the Pantheon in Rome and fortified towers of Switzerland’s Chillon Castle to modern day marvels such as the Adler Planetarium in Chicago, the shape of the circle gives a unique perspective from inside and out.
The Delbana Rotonda entices the wearer to admire fine details on a much smaller scale. The captivating black guilloche pattern in the center of the dial contrasts the silver perimeter similar to a skylight giving visibility to the stars and beyond.
Providing a new interpretation of a similar model launched in the 1950’s, which stood out for its distinctive black center, the Rotonda is enlarged for contemporary enjoyment and appointed with new details. The applied indexes and cathedral shaped hands are accented with powerful luminous highlights. A black genuine leather strap completes the design.
The elegantly curved and polished stainless steel case is consistent with the other special 90th anniversary timepieces, the Recordmaster and Della Balda, all powered by a Delbana engraved automatic movement.
Technical details
Case
Polished stainless-steel case with transparent case back
Scratch-resistant, domed sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 50m / 165ft
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 11.5 mm
Dial
Silver dial with black centered guilloche pattern
Applied indexes, Arabic numerals and luminous hour markers
Date at 3 o’clock
Cathedral shaped, luminous minute and hour hands, red-tipped, central seconds hand
Strap
Genuine black patent leather strap with stainless steel buckle
Movement
Automatic Sellita SW200 movement with date and Delbana customized rotor
26 Jewels, 28’800 vibrations per hour, 38h power reserve.
After the launch of the “LAB Peripheral Dual Time Big Date”, which marked the introduction of a new watch collection featuring a casual-chic style, Swiss brand Perrelet expands this family with a new model displaying the useful date function at 6 o’clock.
Perrelet is well-known for its different interpretations of dynamic dials which boast functional or decorative rotors on the front of the watch. And the new LAB Peripheral collection also respects this famous hallmark that identifies all of the Bienne-based company’s creations.
Flagship of the “LAB Peripheral 3-Hands & Date” is its innovative peripheral rotor. More discreet and sober, visible on the dial-side without compromising the vision of time, this refined version of the oscillating weight dances gracefully underneath the hour indices around the rim of its display according to the rhythm of the owner’s wrist.
The “LAB Peripheral 3-Hands & Date” comes in a 42 mm x 42mm cushion-shaped case in polished/brushed stainless steel or with an eye-catching razor grey PVD coating, decorated with embossed rectangles on the case-band and water resistant to 5 ATM.
Framed by a polished octagonal bezel with satin-brushed profile, its clean dial is offered in two colour variations: black and silver. Its multilayer structure adds depth to the display further enhanced by the different decorations: the vertical lines of the central disc are in relief and surrounded by a matt sandblasted ring, the luminescent indices are applied to the centre and suspended towards the minute flange, the oscillating weight is embellished with engraved oblique grooves. The end result is an elegant, harmonious and well-proportioned dial.
The oscillating mass observable on the dial-side is made possible thanks to the clever in-house manufacture self-winding movement, calibre P- 411, beating at 28.800 vibrations per hour and offering 42-hour of power reserve. The rotor on ball bearings, a 180° plate’s segment, is fixed to a wheel with toothing inside, which engages with a pinion on the outer rim of the movement and transmits the energy to the gear-train winding the mainspring.
The case back sapphire crystal offers view of the movement’s rhodium-plated bridges with Côtes de Genève finishing, 3N gold engravings and its balance wheel in action.
The “LAB Peripheral 3-Hands & Date” is completed by a black calf leather strap with alligator pattern and white stitching, closed by a folding buckle customised with the brand’s logo.
Technical details
Model: LAB PERIPHERAL 3-HANDS & DATE
References
Ref. A110o/1: Stainless steel case, silver dial
Ref. A110o/3: Stainless steel case, black dial
Ref. A1102/1: Stainless steel case with razor grey PVD coating, black dial
Ref. A1102/2: Stainless steel case with razor grey PVD coating, silver dial
Movement
Manufacture Perrelet P-411 caliber, mechanical automatic movement
Fitting diameter: 31.60 mm
Total diameter: 34.80 mm
Thickness, including oscillating weight: 5.02 mm
Vibrations per hour: 28.800 (4Hz)
Jewels: 30
Number of Components: 243
Power reserve: 42 hours
Balance-wheel shock protection system: Incabloc
Circular-grained and rhodium plated mainplate
Bridges: Côtes de Genève, rhodium-plated with 3N gold engraving
Oscillating weight: rhodium plated, circular-brushed, engraved grooves pattern
Functions
Central hours, minutes and seconds hands
Date window at 6 o’clock
Case
Cushion-shaped, polished-brushed stainless steel or razor grey PVD coating depending on the version, octagonal bezel
Size: 42mm x 42mm
Thickness: 13.51 mm
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal glass on both sides
Case-back with sapphire crystal glass, secured by 6 screws
Water resistance: 5 ATM
Dial
Two color variations: silver and black
Central part with vertical decoration in relief and circular-brushed rim, surrounded by a matt sandblasted ring
Cut-out hour-markers filled with SuperLuminova
Luminescent hours and minutes hands
Central seconds hand
Silver or black flange for seconds indication on a scale of 5
Peripheral oscillating weight visible on dial-side, engraved grooves decoration
Date window at 6 o’clock (white disc with black Arabic numerals on silver dial or black disc with white Arabic numerals on black dial)
Strap
Black calf leather strap with alligator pattern and white stitching
Stainless steel folding clasp embellished with the Perrelet logo matching the case
Price
Ref. A110o/1 -Euro 3.880,00
Ref. A110o/3 -Euro 3.880,00
Ref. A1102/1 – Euro 3.980,00
Ref. A1102/2 – Euro 3.980,00
Patek Philippe presents a state-of-the-art Minute Repeater watch developed by its “Advanced Research” department.
For this new acoustic complication watch, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” has developed a totally new all-mechanical sound amplifying system. This fortissimo “ff” module consists of a flexibly suspended sound lever and an oscillating wafer made of transparent sapphire-crystal glass. In comparison with conventional minute repeaters and regardless of the case material, it delivers clearly amplified sound of excellent acoustic quality.
Carrying four patents, the ground-breaking technology is presented in the Ref. 5750 “Advanced Research” minute repeater, a special limited edition consisting of 15 watches cased in platinum and endowed with a unique dial design.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5750 “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater
Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” Innovations for Minute repeaters
(1) A sound amplification system with a sapphire-crystal oscillating wafer
Departing from the famous self-winding caliber R 27, the movement with which Patek Philippe in 1989 ushered in the grand comeback of the minute repeater, the engineers and designers at Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” searched for a way to amplify the volume of the time strike in a purely mechanical manner while preserving the excellent acoustic quality as well as the smallest possible dimensions.
After several technical forays in various directions, they decided to preserve the design of the base movement and then on the bridge side (the side facing the wrist) to add a module that works like a mechanical loudspeaker. But unlike normal loudspeakers, the amplification of the sound does not rely on a flexible diaphragm which like the skin of a drum is attached along its periphery. Instead of a membrane, the system for which Patek Philippe registered three patents has an oscillating wafer made of synthetic sapphire with a thickness of 0.2 mm.
Thanks to its angular motion, this rigid and freely movable wafer provides clearly better sound propagation for the confined volume of a wristwatch. The transparency of the sapphire glass also preserves the unobstructed view of the movement through the case back. To implement this heavily miniaturized system, the developers had to master considerable challenges, both in design and in production.
(2) A flexibly suspended sound lever
To achieve sound transmission from the gongs of the minute repeater to the sapphire-glass oscillating wafer, the engineers developed a system with a steel sound lever that is attached in the middle of the oscillating wafer. The other end of this sound lever that resembles a tuning fork features a flexible attachment with a thickness of 0.08 mm.
When the hammers strike the gongs, their oscillations are transmitted to the sound lever which in a first phase amplifies them and transmits them to the rigid oscillating wafer where they are further amplified. The angular motion of the oscillating wafer excites the air layers above and beneath the sapphire glass, producing a noticeably louder sound.
(3) A new type of sound propagation
Parallel to the integration of the fortissimo “ff” amplifier module, the team also developed a totally new sound propagation system. In a classic minute repeater, the strikes of the hammers on the gongs create oscillations of the entire watch. The sound is propagated on all sides by the case, the back, and the crystal glass.
Therefore, the case material has a significant influence on the sound, whereby rose gold is considered the best precious metal for sound propagation while platinum, with its higher material density, presents the greatest acoustic challenge. In the minute repeater with the fortissimo module, an insulation rim made of a high-tech composite material acoustically uncouples the amplifier from the movement. The sound is first routed to the sound lever and then to the oscillating wafer and subsequently propagated through four openings at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock in a titanium ring.
The sound waves exit through a narrow slot between the case back and the case band. A dust filter protects the movement without affecting the sound. So the case material does not influence the sound and its propagation. It is always of the same quality, regardless of whether the case material is rose, yellow, or white gold or platinum.
(4) A distinctly louder and totally harmonious sound
The fortissimo module attached in the case back allows the sound to be heard at a six-fold larger distance. So a classic minute repeater on the wrist, at a distance of 10 m, sounds as loud and clear as an amplified minute repeater at a distance of 60 m. The manufacture also leveraged its rich experience in the domain of chiming watches to create a reverberating sound that also pleases the ear; this requires considerable dexterity and acute hearing.
Even though the sound amplified by the fortissimo module differs slightly from that of other minute repeaters, it offers the harmonic quality and acoustic richness that underpin the unique reputation of Patek Philippe minute repeaters and arouse enthusiasm with a long resonant fade out relative to the “attack” (hardness). Additionally, the maximum duration of the time strike (32 strikes at 12:59) – it usually lasts 17 to 18 seconds – was extended to 20 to 21 seconds, allowing the gongs to fade somewhat longer.
(5) Platinum components
Apart from the additional fortissimo module, the caliber R 27 PS benefits from further technical enhancements with respect to materials and design factors. The minute repeater hammers, originally in steel, were replaced with platinum hammers, a patented solution that in this specific case improves the quality of the strike in line with the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal and produces a softer strike as well without reducing its sonority. A minirotor in platinum replaces the eccentrically recessed minirotor in 22K gold; thanks to the greater material density, it delivers the same winding power with a thinner design. With it, the thickness of the fortissimo module can at least be partially offset.
Ref. 5750P Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater
The Ref. 5750P Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” minute repeater comes in a sleek case with a slightly domed bezel. It is inspired by the Ref. 5178 minute repeater with cathedral gongs, has the same diameter of 40 mm. However, with a height of 11.1 mm, it is 0.57 mm thicker. To demonstrate the efficiency of the fortissimo system, the manufacture opted for platinum, the material that poses the greatest acoustic challenges. It is a limited edition of 15 watches.
In its center, the five-part elaborately constructed dial features an openworked motif inspired by the spoked wheels of vintage automobiles. It stands out against the black background with snailed spiraling lines. The subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock consists of a rotating disc with the same open-worked motif against a black snailed background and a small marker that serves as a hand – a movable element which creates a unique, dynamic effect. The time is indicated by flat Dauphine hands in white gold and applied kite-type hour markers in blackened white gold.
The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the hammers and the classic gongs of the minute repeater as well as the sound lever in the shape of a tuning fork that carries the transparent oscillating wafer of the fortissimo amplifier system. A pierced Calatrava cross decorates the cover of the centrifugal governor that assures the regular rhythm of the time strikes. The spectacular outlook also shows the Gyromax® balance spring in Silinvar® launched in 2006 by Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” as well as the large bridge with Geneva striping and carefully chamfered and polished edges.
The platinum minirotor sports a ray pattern in the style of the dial; it was created with a laser-based light-absorbing surface texturing technique that allows certain segments to appear black. This limited special edition is worn on a shiny orange alligator strap with black contrast seams and a platinum fold-over clasp.
Patents
Loudspeaker with freely oscillating wafer: PCT/EP2021/066501 – TIMEPIECE COMPONENT COMPRISING A SOUND AMPLIFICATION DEVICE.
Platinum hammers: CH00153/21 – STRIKEWORK MECHANISM COMPRISING A STRIKEWORK HAMMER AND A STRIKEWORK GONG, IN REFERENCE TO SAID STRIKEWORK HAMMER AND IN REFERENCE TO SAID STRIKEWORK GONG.
Helical gongs with a coplanar attachment assure the balanced amplification of the hour and minute strikes
EP21203307.0 – BOSSED GONG ASSEMBLY FOR THE STRIKING MECHANISM OF A MOVEMENT
About Patek Philippe “Advanced Research”
Founded in 2005, the Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” department has meanwhile been integrated in the Research & Development division and vested with the task of pursuing high-end research in the fields of new materials, technologies, and conceptual fundamentals intended to open totally new perspectives in the domain of watchmaking.
To attain these objectives, the manufacture has established unique competencies, called together its best specialists, and provided them with the latest technical resources, including instruments required for computer simulation. The engineers at Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” also collaborate with independent external research facilities such as the Centre suisse d’électronique et de microtechnique de Neuchâtel (CSEM) or the Federal Institute of Technology Lausanne (EPFL).
Since 2005, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” has stood out with pioneering work in the innovative field of Silinvar®, a derivative of silicon with phenomenal characteristics for watchmaking applications (temperature compensating, lightweight, lubricant-free, antimagnetic, etc.).
Concurrently, the manufacture presented the first escape wheel in Silinvar® (2005), followed by the Spiromax® balance spring (2006), the Pulsomax® escapement (2008), the Oscillomax® ensemble (2011), and a further optimized version of the Spiromax® balance spring (2017). Each of these technology leaps was accompanied by the launch of a wristwatch in limited editions that were the first to be endowed with the innovative components. In the meantime, most of the movements for the current Patek Philippe watch collections are equipped with Spiromax® balance springs made of Silinvar®.
In 2017, in a totally different field of research, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” developed a compliant mechanism (system with flexible articulations) made of conventional horological steel that in Patek Philippe watches with two time zones is used to set the second time zone. This technical innovation was launched in the limited-edition watch that also first featured the optimized Spiromax® balance spring.
Patek Philippe “Advanced Research”: key achievements
2005: Silinvar®
Silinvar® is a novel, patented material based on monocrystalline silicon. It was developed in collaboration with Rolex, the Swatch Group, and CSEM in Neuchâtel, and is suitable for applications in watchmaking.
Thanks to a patented oxidation process that causes molecular changes in the outmost layers, it has temperature-compensating characteristics. In the temperature range from -10°C to +60°C, components made of Silinvar® are highly stable – or invariable as suggested by its name (Silinvar® = silicon + invariable).
This advantage is one of several positive characteristics that make Silinvar® a true super material for horology.
• Silinvar® is very lightweight and has merely a third of the mass of steel. Silinvar® watch components can therefore be moved with less energy and react less sensitively to the earth’s gravitation.
• Silinvar® is twice as hard as steel and thus more wear-resistant.
• Silinvar® cannot be magnetized and is thus insensitive to magnetic fields.
• Silinvar® is corrosion-resistant.
• In microstructures, Silinvar® is very flexible but does not deform permanently. It is therefore very shock-resistant and dimensionally stable.
• Silinvar® components are manufactured with the DRIE process. Deep Reactive Ion Etching produces components of consistently identical shape and quality.
• Thanks to the DRIE process and the know-how accrued in this domain, Silinvar® components can be manufactured with tolerances of less than 1/1000 mm.
2005: First escape wheel in Silinvar®
This new part improves dependability because it requires no lubricants. It also reduces the mass to be moved (better efficiency), is corrosion-resistant, and remains perfectly concentric. Launch of the Ref. 5250 Annual Calendar Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with a Silinvar® escape wheel in a limited edition of 100 watches.
2006: Spiromax® balance spring in Silinvar®
• Optimized rate accuracy by improved isochronism thanks to concentric breathing (expansion and contraction) of the balance spring.
• Lighter balance spring, less sensitive to external factors such as shocks and gravity.
• Flat design, three times thinner than a Breguet hairspring.
• Patented geometry (Patek Philippe boss at the outer end, integrated stud attachment, self-centering integrated collet) for attachment to the balance staff.
Launch of the Ref. 5350 Annual Calendar Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with a Spiromax® balance spring and an escape wheel made of Silinvar® in a limited edition of 300 watches.
Meanwhile, the internally produced Spiromax® balance spring has been integrated in most Patek Philippe movement families, especially in calibers 300 (Grandmaster Chime), 301 (Grande Sonnerie), R 27 (except the R TO 27), 240, 28-520, 324, 26-330, 31-260, 25-21, 215 and 30-255.
2008: Pulsomax® escapement in Silinvar®
• Optimized geometry of escape wheel and lever
• Increase of energy efficiency by 15%
Launch of the Ref. 5450 Annual Calendar Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with a Pulsomax® escapement and a Spiromax® balance spring in a limited edition of 300 watches.
2011: Oscillomax® ensemble (Pulsomax® escapement with GyromaxSi balance and Spiromax® balance spring)
With respect to precision adjustment, the GyromaxSi® balance preserves all of the advantages of the Gyromax® balance that was patented in 1951 (adjustment by changing the moment of inertia of the balance, no impact on the active length of the balance spring.
• Optimization of the advantages of the Gyromax® principle by a mass reduction near the balance staff thanks to a lightweight Silinvar® chassis.
• Concentration of the active mass on the outside edge thanks to pure gold inlays.
• Aerodynamic optimization of the balance with a 15% power gain.
• Change of the moment of inertia with four asymmetric poising weights
• All proven advantages of the Spiromax® balance spring and of the Pulsomax® escapement.
Launch of the Ref. 5550 Perpetual Calendar Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with the Oscillomax® ensemble in a limited edition of 300 watches.
2017: Optimized Spiromax® balance spring
New Spiromax® balance spring thanks to an inner boss (thicker part at the inner end) to improve isochronism of the balance in the vertical positions. This progress is the subject of several patents, allowing a rate accuracy of -1 to +2 seconds per day in comparison with a Patek Philippe Tourbillon watch.
Launch of Ref. 5650 Aquanaut Travel Time Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with a compliant mechanism for setting the time zone and optimized Spiromax® balance spring in a limited edition of 500 watches. Since then, the optimized Spiromax® balance spring has been integrated in most Patek Philippe movements, especially in calibers 240, 215, 28-520 and 324.
2017: Correctors with compliant mechanism in steel
Compliant mechanism for correcting the time zones. It utilizes the elasticity of materials in microstructures and replaces articulations with pivots and leaf springs. This technical development offers numerous advantages: simplified assembly (12 parts as opposed to 37 previously), flatter design, no mechanical play, no friction, no arbor wear, which results in totally lubricant-free functionality and excellent energy efficiency.
Launch of Ref. 5650 Aquanaut Travel Time Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with a compliant mechanism for setting the time zone and optimized Spiromax® balance spring in a limited edition of 500 watches.
Technical details
Model: Ref. 5750 Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater
Limited edition of 15 pieces
Movement
Caliber R 27 PS
Self-winding mechanical movement. Minute repeater with classic gongs and small seconds
Patented fortissimo “ff” system for sound amplification and propagation consisting of a flexibly suspended sound lever, a transparent sapphire-glass oscillating wafer, a composite insulating rim and four sound openings in a titanium ring.
Diameter: 28 mm
Height: 6.05 mm
Number of parts: 342
Number of jewels: 39
Power reserve: Min. 43 hours, max. 48 hours
Winding rotor: Minirotor in 950 platinum with laser texture, unidirectional winding
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax®
Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)
Balance spring stud: Adjustable
Displays
With hands: Center hours and minutes
With disk: Subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock
Functions
Two-position crown:
• Pushed home: To wind the watch
• Pulled out: To set the time
Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal
Case
950 platinum
Sapphire-crystal case back
Minute-repeater slide in left-hand case flank
Not water-resistant, protected against moisture and dust
Diamond at 6 o’clock
Case dimensions: Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.1 mm
Width between lugs: 21 mm
Dial
White gold, black nickel-plated snailed base, open-worked ray motif, hand-guilloched edging, hour circle with circular satin finish
Applied kite-type hour markers in blackened 18K white gold
Flat Dauphine hour and minute hands in 18K white gold, black transfer-printed
Subsidiary seconds disk with marker at 6 o’clock
Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with large square scales, shiny orange with black contrast stitching, 950 platinum foldover clasp
To commemorate 170 years of its alliance with Tiffany & Co., Patek Philippe has created a limited-edition run of Ref. 5711/1A-018 Nautilus wristwatches in steel endowed with famous Tiffany Blue® dials. Unique to these timepieces is the dual stamping of both companies, “Tiffany & Co.” at 6 o’clock paired with Patek Philippe at 12 o’clock. Introduced in 2006, the best selling Nautilus Ref. 5711 series will be retired from the collection in 2022.
The horizontal relief embossed dial is amplified by baton hour markers as well as baton hour and minute hands, all in blackened white gold with luminous coatings and features. The peerless design of the case, the bezel, and the integrated steel bracelet is highlighted by the refined sequence of satin-finished and polished links.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe
The rugged case is water-resistant to 120 meters. It accommodates the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C, a movement that features various technical innovations and optimizations as well as a stop-seconds mechanism that allows the time to be set with one-second accuracy. The sapphire-crystal case back bears the commemorative inscription “170th Anniversary 1851-2021 Tiffany & Co. – Patek Philippe“.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe
Only a quantity of 170 units will be available exclusively in the Tiffany boutiques in New York, Beverly Hills, and San Francisco that carry Patek Philippe.
Tiffany & Co. auctioned off one of the commemorative watches with Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo on December 11th, with 100% of proceeds benefitting The Nature Conservancy, a global environmental organization. It was sold for $6.5 million, making it the highest value watch to sell online at any auction house.
Both Patek Philippe (1839) and Tiffany & Co. (1837) were founded within two years of one another. From the onset, the Genevan manufacture and the American jeweler have always shared the same values: a quest for perfection, a passion for artisanal skills and a top-tier appreciation and service for customers.
In 1851, Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. forged an agreement that made the American jeweler the first official retail partner for Patek Philippe timepieces in the U.S. market. On the occasion of the first business trip to the new world, Antoine Norbert de Patek reasserted the special nature of the relationship and paid a visit to Charles Lewis Tiffany in New York. On his departure, he was deeply impressed by the business volume of the luxury jewelry retailer and by a large order of 150 watches.
In 1876, the two companies signed a new agreement that appointed Tiffany & Co. the general representative for the United States “who safeguards the interests of Patek Philippe & Cie. as if they were its own interests”. Conversely, the Genevan company pledged to safeguard the American jeweler’s interests as evidenced by the huge façade sign “Agents for Tiffany & Co., New York” at Patek Philippe’s historic headquarters facing the Grand Quai. On the premises of the same Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva, there is further proof of the solid transatlantic relationship: a large steel vault formerly owned by Tiffany & Co. and decorated by an American eagle sporting two flags.
In the period from 1900 to 1930, Tiffany & Co. also played a key role in the relationships between Patek Philippe and major American timepiece collectors such as Henry Graves Junior for whom the manufacture crafted an extensive range of complicated watches. In 1946, the grandfather of the manufacture’s current president Thierry Stern founded the Henri Stern Watch Agency in New York. It actively nurtured the continuation of the successful partnership.
In 2008, Patek Philippe intensified its relationship with the American jeweler and opened a boutique within the famous Tiffany retail venue on Fifth Avenue that is currently undergoing extensive renovation. The manufacture’s complete current collection can be admired here.
Since the beginning of the third millennium, Patek Philippe created several limited special editions for the American partner; they recall important dates and bear dual stamps for both brands. Today, Tiffany & Co. is the world’s only retailer, whose name appears on a Patek Philippe dial, making these watches highly sought-after with collectors.
Image Credit: Patek Philippe
The previous limited editions Patek Philippe made especially for Tiffany & Co.
2001: Refs. 5150R, 5150J & 5150G – 450 watches
Launched in 2001 to celebrate the 150th year of partnership between the two companies, the Ref. 5150 Annual Calendar was the first limited edition created by Patek Philippe for a U.S. retailer. As a special feature, the month indication was shown as a numeral. A total of 450 watches were made: 150 in rose gold, 150 in yellow gold, and 150 in white gold.
2009: Refs. 4987G-001 & 4987G-010 – 100 watches
Launched in 2009 on the occasion of the first anniversary of the Patek Philippe Boutique at Tiffany & Co. on Fifth Avenue in New York, this art deco-inspired Gondolo ladies’ wristwatch featured a tonneau case and a guilloched dial decorated with a two-row diamond setting. Fifty watches with white and 50 with black dials were created.
2012: Refs. 4987G-011 & 4987G-012 – 50 watches
Presented in 2012 on the occasion of the fifth anniversary of the Patek Philippe Boutique at Tiffany & Co. on Fifth Avenue in New York (2013), this Gondolo ladies’ wristwatch features art deco accents and a slightly cambered tonneau-shaped case with two rows of diamonds and large rhythmically arranged Roman numerals. Its edition was limited to 25 watches with a blue sunburst dial and 25 watches with a mother-of-pearl dial.
2012: Ref. 5396G-012 – 100 watches
This white gold men’s watch with an Annual Calendar comes in a limited edition of 100 timepieces. It displays the day of the week and the month in a double aperture at 12 o’clock and has an analog date at 6 o’clock. The back is graced with the engraved inscription “Patek Philippe – A Shared Vision – 2008-2013 – that recalls the fifth anniversary of the Patek Philippe Boutique at Tiffany & Co. on Fifth Avenue.
Technical details
Model: Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.”
Edition
Limited to 170 watches
Movement
Caliber 26-330 S C
Self-winding mechanical movement, sweep seconds, and aperture date
Diameter: 27 mm
Height: 3.3 mm
Number of parts: 212
Number of jewels: 30
Power reserve: Min. 35 hours, max. 45 hours
Winding rotor: Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax® in Silinvar®
Balance spring stud: Adjustable
Functions
Three-position crown:
• Pushed home: To wind the watch
• Pulled halfway out: Rapid date correction
• Pulled all the way out: Handsetting with stop seconds
Displays
Hours, minutes, and sweep seconds
Date aperture at 3 o’clock
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Case
Stainless steel
Sapphire-crystal caseback with inscription “170th Anniversary 1851-2021 Tiffany & Co. – Patek Philippe”
Water resistant to 120 m (12 bar)
Case dimensions: Diameter (10 to 4 o’clock): 40 mm
Height: 8.3 mm
Dial
Dial plate in brass with Tiffany Blue® lacquer and with horizontal Nautilus embossing
Black printed signatures “Patek Philippe Genève” at 12 o’clock and “Tiffany & Co.” at 6 o’clock.
12 applied baton-style hour markers in blackened 18K white gold, luminous coating
Baton-style hour and minute hands in black nickel-plated 18K white gold, luminous coating
Seconds hand in black nickel-plated Pfinodal, counterbalanced
Hydro-Sub, the iconic Edox diving watch from the 1960s, is making a spectacular return with a new chronometer.
The Hydro-Sub Automatic Chronometer Limited Edition blends its new, improved and contemporary characteristics with the timelessly cool DNA of the original 1960s Hydro-Sub.
The new watch is available in a limited edition of 500 pieces, engraved with “one out of 500” on the case back. It has a water-resistance of 300m. The innovations that made the original Hydro-Sub so impressive, such as the screw-down crown with double O-ring seal, have been retained and perfected.
This time though the unidirectional bezel with 60-minute diving scale surrounding the dial is made out of scratch-resistant ceramic. A 2.5mm-thick crystal sapphire with anti-reflective coating on BOTH sides ensures a crystal-clear view of the dial.
The instantly recognizable lines of the original 1965 timepiece are carried through to the Edox Hydro-Sub Automatic Chronometer Limited Edition, from the ‘blocky’ lugs to the vintage-inspired central handset, which includes a long triangular seconds pointer. The dial indices and minute and hour hands are coated with Super-LumiNova.
The Hydro-Sub Automatic Chronometer Limited Edition’s design is clean and practical, focusing on the essentials and discarding unnecessary ‘clutter’. The solid steel bracelet echoes the original Hydro-Sub’s bracelet. Even this has been improved, the matt satin-finish links more precisely aligned and with a smoother finish, ensuring a perfect fit on the wrist. Two pushers easily release the buckle.
The new Hydro-Sub watch comes with a tough, hand-polished 42mm steel case. It is equipped with the Edox automatic Calibre 80. Made by Swiss movement manufacturer Sellita, it provides a 38-hour power reserve. This timepiece meets the strict conditions set by Swiss chronometer testing body COSC.
Case
Stainless steel case
Case diameter: Ø42MM
Case thickness: 12.5MM
Ceramic bezel
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Water resistance: 300M / 30 ATM
Screw-Down Crown
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo’s 2021 New York Watch Auction realized $35.9 million, selling 100% by lot and 100% by value, marking the most successful Watch auction in US history.
This concludes a 100% sold year for Phillips Watches – a first for any auction house in history. It was also the most successful year ever for the department – bringing the annual total to $209.3 million, marking the first time this sale total has been reached by any auction house, which also marks an 89% increase over 2019.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5711 Nautilus with Tiffany Blue® Dial @ Patek Philippe/Phillips
Leading the auction was the very first Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711 with Tiffany Blue® dial, which realized $6.5 million, making it the highest value watch to sell online at any auction house and the most expensive lot to sell online across all categories at Phillips. 100% of the proceeds will be donated to The Nature Conservancy.
Top Ten Lots
Lot 1T: Patek Philippe, Ref. 5711/1A-018, An historic, highly important, and brand-new stainless steel wristwatch with “Tiffany Blue” lacquer dial, date and bracelet, with certificate of origin and presentation box, with proceeds benefitting The Nature Conservancy, 2021.
Estimate: in Excess of $50,000
Price Achieved: $6,503,500/ £4,902,143/€5,746,232
Lot 102: George Daniels, A spectacular and historically important yellow gold twin barrel one minute tourbillon pocket watch with Earnshaw spring detent chronometer escapement and retrograde hour hand, with handwritten George Daniels letter, presentation box, and double-ended key, handmade for Edward Hornby, 1971.
Estimate: $600,000 – 1,200,000
Price Achieved: $1,663,500/ £1,253,481/€1,470,168
Lot 41: Rolex Ref. 6241, A highly important, very rare, and exceptional yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with Paul Newman ‘John Player Special’ dial and bracelet, Circa 1969.
Estimate: $600,000 – 1,200,000
Price Achieved: $1,240,000/ £934,365/€1,095,887
Lot 95: Richard Mille, Ref. RM022 AM CA, A very rare and highly attractive limited edition skeletonized carbon dual time tourbillon wristwatch with torque, power reserve and function indicators, with Certificate of Authenticity, and presentation box, 2012.
Estimate: $250,000 – 500,000
Price Achieved: $1,179,500/ £888,777/€1,042,419
Lot 39: Rolex, Ref. 6241 A spectacular, very well-preserved, and unprecedented 14K yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with champagne Paul Newman exotic dial, Circa 1968.
Estimate: $250,000 – 500,000
Price Achieved: $756,000/ £569,661/€668,138
Lot 101: Roger Smith, An exceptional, important, and extremely rare pink gold wristwatch with subsidiary seconds, co-axial escapement, and engine-turned dial, numbered 1, accompanied by original certificate and presentation box, 2018.
Estimate: $120,000 – 240,000
Price Achieved: $730,800/£550,672/€645,866 (world auction record for the maker)
Lot 154: F.P. Journe, An extremely rare and beautiful limited edition pink gold tourbillon wristwatch with black mother-of-pearl dial, constant force remontoire, power reserve, dead beat seconds, certificate of authenticity, and presentation box, 2005.
Estimate: $150,000 – 300,000
Price Achieved: $718,200/ £541,178/€634,731
Lot 165: Rolex, Ref. 6239; inside caseback stamped 6239, A previously unknown, extremely rare, and highly important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with blue pulsation dial, tachymeter bezel, and bracelet, Circa 1967.
Estimate: $350,000 – 700,000
Price Achieved: $693,000/ £522,189/€612,460
Lot 138: Omega, Ref. 145.012-67 SP, A culturally and historically important stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with tachymeter bezel and bracelet, formerly owned by Ralph W. Ellison, 1968.
Estimate: $10,000 – 20,000
Price Achieved: $667,800/ £503,201/€590,188 (world auction record for the reference)
Lot 69: Audemars Piguet, Ref. 25902OR.OO.1110OR.01 A very fine and extremely rare pink gold skeletonized tourbillon wristwatch with power reserve, date indicator, integrated bracelet, certificate, and presentation box, sold to benefit The One Drop Foundation, 2010.
Singapore based watch brand VARIO presents ИAVI collection, a series of automatic wristwatches inspired by the maritime world.
Vario’s ИAVI watch takes inspiration from marine vessels: a helmsman’s wheel, sailor hat crown, hands from barometer or steam engine gauges, sub-dials with an anchor or compass hand. Made of stainless steel, it has a case diameter of 38mm. They display jumping hour, central minute and small-seconds. All timepieces feature a porthole-shaped jumping hour window just below the 12 o’ clock hour marker.
The stand-out creation from this collection is the Jump Hour Popeye edition. As the name suggests, the two special characteristics of these watches are the Jumping hour display and Popeye the Sailor Man. In the Popeye the Sailor Man edition, the iconic sailor’s arm indicates the minute. Its small-seconds indicator is shaped after spinach can. Launching date of this watch is 12 Dec 2021.
In addition the above model, VARIO is offering two Popeye Small Seconds models (deep water blue and cloud white) in limited numbers. In these versions, the minute is indicated by a Breguet style hand. The small-seconds indicator highlights the expression of Popeye the Sailor Man. These models will be launched on 17 Jan 2022.
VARIO will also launch four ИAVI Jump Hour watch without Popeye the Sailor Man details. Among them, two models feature anchor-shaped small-seconds hands. The remaining two will have compass shaped small-seconds hands. Both models will be launched on 17 Jan 2022.
The movement used to power these timepieces is the Seagull ST1721 20 jewel automatic Jumping Hour movement. It has a power reserve of 42 hours. Fitted with sapphire crystals, they are water resistant to 100 meters.
The suggested retail price range of this collection is $378.00 to $418.00.
To mark the grand finale of its 25th anniversary celebrations, Parmigiani Fleurier presents La Rose Carrée, a one-off, 64 mm, white gold, double hunter pocket watch featuring the most advanced craftsmanship and historical heritage.
It is equipped with an original movement made by legendary watchmaker Louis-Elisée Piguet somewhere between 1898 and 1904. It showcases a grande sonnerie and minute repeater, and has been fully restored while preserving its authenticity. A Rose Carrée or “squared rose” pattern engraving spans the entirety of this legacy movement, as well as the newly designed case, which is coated in translucent grand feu enamel, creating complex shades of blue.
In the late 1990’s, Michel Parmigiani acquired a grande sonnerie and minute repeater movement, created around the end of the 19th century by famous grand complications watchmaker Louis-Elisée Piguet. For over 20 years, this calibre remained in a drawer, awaiting restoration.
In 2021, Parmigiani Fleurier’s newly appointed CEO Guido Terreni decided the brand’s upcoming 25th anniversary deserved a special undertaking, and thus initiated a project together with the maison’s founder and one of the world’s most celebrated master restorers, Michel Parmigiani. The project was to be a signature timepiece that embodies the entirety of Parmigiani Fleurier’s craft, Michel Parmigiani’s culture, Guido Terreni’s vision and the best of what the talented craftspeople surrounding them have to offer.
This historically important grande sonnerie movement was brought back to its original glory, thanks to the best-in-class experience and skill at Parmigiani Fleurier’s restoration workshop. Then it was encased in a highly decorated white gold case measuring 64 mm in diameter. With movement and case, form and function, in unison, La Rose Carrée is a pocket watch that is by nature and by design, entirely unique.
Calibre Louis-Elisée Piguet number 5802 is outstanding in nature, being one of the rare one of the rare one of the rare one of the rare one of the rare one of the rare one of the rare one of the rare one of the rare one of the rare one of the rare one of the rare movements of this style that was made by the famed watchmaker around the end of the 19th century.
While the movement is being rejuvenated, both covers of the case are engraved by the skilled hands of Eddy Jaquet with a motif called “Rose Carrée”. The square roses, inspired by the linear form that rose petals take when they start to wither, are meticulously and assiduously hand-engraved. Their pattern follows the Golden Spiral, a mathematical derivative of the Golden Ratio.
Thus is the inspiration for the design of the case covers, both mirror images of delicate geometric roses floating within a ripple of water on a profound sea of blue. While blue has always been an emotional colour for Michel, the blue rose for him is the epitome of rarity. Roses are often regarded as the most coveted, elegant, and prestigious of flowers. Adding blue to the equation creates a symbol of mystery and of attaining the impossible.
Between three and four layers of blue grand feu enamel are meticulously applied by artistic enameller Vanessa Lecci. She added even more depth and rich colour to the magnificent engraving work, while ensuring the extensive enamelling appears the same on both covers, one more extraordinary feat.
Both covers are symmetrical and contextually engraved. When the first one opens, it reveals a wide, uncluttered dial entirely made of black onyx. On this dark, mirror-like surface that was a great challenge to cut, lies a pair of open-worked, white gold hands crafted in a Delta shape, and a small seconds subdial outlined in white gold. When the second cover opens, it showcases a restored movement whose surface has also been entirely engraved. The mainplate and the bridges now display a Rose Carrée pattern. Engraving the original parts preserved the authenticity of the movement while elevating its beauty.
The crown, set with a blue sapphire, is sheltered by an engraved square bow with blue grand feu enamelling which is attached to a unique square-link chain that has been designed according to the Rose Carrée motif. It has been entirely hand-crafted by Switzerland’s last traditional chain maker, Laurent Jolliet.
Team members behind the La Rose Carrée watch
• Guido Terreni, CEO
• Michel Parmigiani, Founder
• Anne-Laure Parmigiani, Project Leader (trained watchmaker and engraver)
• Anne-Marie Moser, Designer
• Francis Rossignol, Restorer
• Christie Girel, Restorer
• Bernard Muller, Beveller
• Laurent Jolliet, Chain Maker
• Eddy Jaquet, Engraver
• Vanessa Lecci, Enameller
• Les Artisans Boîtier, Case Maker
• LM Cadrans, Dial Maker
Technical details
Model: LA ROSE CARRÉE
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, grande sonnerie, minute repeater
Movement
Caliber PF992 – Original Movement Made By Louis-Elisée Piguet Circa 1898-1904 with Individual Number 5802, Hand-Wound, Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds, Grande Sonnerie, Minute Repeater
Power reserve: 32 hours
Frequency: 18,000 Vph (2.5 Hz)
Jewels: 27
Barrels: 2
No. of components: 331 without pins
Diameter: 43 mm / 19’’’
Decoration: bridges and mainplate are hand-beveled and hand-engraved with La Rose Carrée motif
Case
Polished 18ct white gold PD210, double hunter pocket watch Diameter: 64 mm
Thickness: 20 mm
Crown: Ø 10 mm, set with a natural blue sapphire
Bow: square-shaped with blue grand feu enamel and hand-engraved with La Rose Carrée
Glass: anti-reflective sapphire crystal, chevé-edged
Case covers: polished 18ct white gold PD210, chevé-edged, hand-engraved, grand feu blue enamel
Water resistance: none
Dial
Solid onyx
Color: black
Finishing: polished
18ct white gold square indices and PF logo appliques, 18ct white gold small seconds subdial outline
Hands
Hours and minutes: 18ct white gold, skeletonized delta-shaped
Small seconds: 18ct white gold, baton-shaped with square counterweight
Chain
Entirely handcrafted in 18ct white gold
Beveled & polished 32 square-shaped links, 2 engraved squares, and 1 engraved PF logo oval arranged in scalable sequence
Christie’s Fine Watchmaking: Important Timepieces and the Independent Collection (24 November – 10 December) achieved a total of $5,518,250 with 95% sold by lot and 143% hammer above low estimate. There was global participation with bidders from 34 countries and over 30% new registrants.
Leading the sale was Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 3 Tourbillon in 18k white gold, which sold for $237,500. The sale also achieved notable results for independent watchmakers, including F.P. Journe, Octa Reserve de Marche, 18K pink gold, brass movement, achieved $175,000 and A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Flyback in 18K pink gold, which achieved over twice its high estimate and sold for $137,500.
Greubel Forsey, Invention Piece 3, Tourbillon 24-hour display with minutes, small seconds and 72 hours power reserve 18k white gold, No. 9 of a limited edition of 11 pieces. Circa 2010, Price Realized: $237,500 @ Christie’s
Additionally, strong prices were achieved for Patek Philippe references including the ‘Celestial’ reference 5102G, 18k white gold automatic astronomical wristwatch with sky chart, phases and orbit of the moon, which realized $187,500; Nautilus reference 5712, 18k pink gold, which achieved more than double its high estimate and sold for $125,000; reference 3970P perpetual calendar chronograph that realized $118,750.
Christie’s exceptional year of watches continues with the online sale of Watches Online: The Geneva Edit An Important Private Collection, open online for bidding through 14 December.
Top 15 achievers/ Price realized
Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 3 Tourbillon in 18k white gold: $237,500
Patek Philippe ref 5102G, 18k white gold automatic astronomical wristwatch with sky chart, phases and orbit of the moon: $187,500
A. Lange & Sohne datograph flyback chronograph in 18k pink gold, Ref. 403.031: $137,500
F.P. Journe Octa reserve de marche in 18k pink gold with brass movement: $175,000
Richard Mille watch in 18k pink gold and skeletonized dial, Ref. RM005AFPG: $137,500
Patek Philippe Nautilus in 18k pink gold, Ref. 5712: $125,000
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Platinum, Ref. 3970P: $118,750
Rolex Daytona “Big Red” Chronograph in Steel, Ref. 6263: $112,500
F.P. Journe Chronometre Bleu Tantalum Manual-Winding Wristwatch, No. 180: $93,750
Rolex, “Padellone” 18K Yellow Gold Triple Calendar, Ref. 817: $87,500
A. Lange & Sohne Double Split Seconds Flyback Chronograph in Platinum, Ref. 404.035: $87,500
MB&F and Sarpaneva Moonmachine 1 Titanium Limited Edition 2/18: $81,250
Tudor “Big Crown” Submariner in Steel, Ref. 7924: $75,000
Patek Philippe Chronograph in 18K Pink Gold, Ref. 5070R: $75,000
Patek Philippe Chronograph in 18K Yellow Gold, Ref. 5070J: $75,000
OMEGA’s Constellation series welcomes three new 36mm watch models with sun-brushed dials and matching-coloured straps in shimmering leather.
The first one is a 36 mm stainless steel model with burgundy PVD treated dial and matching strap. The second watch features a stainless steel and 18K yellow gold case with blue PVD treated dial and matching strap. The third one comes with a stainless steel and 18K Sedna™ gold model with brown PVD treated dial and matching strap.
A dazzling feature on all three models is a circle of 38 diamonds (0.92ct), set on a specially polished bezel to produce a high shine and increase the play of light. The beautiful sun-brushed dials also have a date window at 6 o’clock and 0.19ct of diamonds, giving the watches an overall diamond total of 1.11ct.
On each new edition, the OMEGA logo, Constellation star and indexes are in 18K white gold, 18K yellow gold or 18K Sedna™ gold – depending on the model – to ensure all applied elements match the colour of the case material.
The OMEGA’s Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8800 is visible through the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. To earn the Master Chronometer certification, each watch – and its movement – must pass the strictest tests in the watch industry, set by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS).
Technical details
Collection: Constellation
Movement
Calibre: Omega 8800
Self-winding movement with Co-Axial escapement
Certified Master Chronometer, approved by METAS, resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss
Free sprung-balance with silicon balance spring, automatic winding in both directions
Rhodium plated finish with Geneva waves in arabesque
Power reserve: 55 hours
Features
Anti-magnetic
Chronometer
Date
Master Chronometer Certified
Model: Omega Constellation Co-Axial Master Chronometer 36 MM
Reference 131.18.36.20.61.001
Case
Material: stainless steel
Case diameter: 36 mm
Polished bezel set with 38 diamonds
Domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with antireflective treatment on both sides
Water resistance: 5 bar (50 metres / 167 feet)
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal case back
Dial
Burgundy PVD treated dial with sun-brushed finish
Date window at the 6 o’clock position
Hands, OMEGA logo, Constellation star and indexes in 18K white gold
Strap
Burgundy Leather strap
Model: Omega Constellation Co-Axial Master Chronometer 36 MM
Reference 131.28.36.20.53.001
Case
Material: Stainless steel and 18K yellow gold
Polished bezel set with 38 diamonds
Domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with antireflective treatment on both sides
Water resistance: 5 bar (50 metres / 167 feet)
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal case back
Dial
Blue PVD treated dial with sun-brushed finish
Date window at the 6 o’clock position
Hands, OMEGA logo, Constellation star and indexes in 18K yellow gold
Strap
Blue leather strap
Model: Omega Constellation Co-Axial Master Chronometer 36 MM
Reference 131.28.36.20.53.001
Case
Material: Stainless steel and 18K Sedna™ Gold
Polished bezel set with 38 diamonds
Domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with antireflective treatment on both sides
Water resistance: 5 bar (50 metres / 167 feet)
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal case back
Dial
Brown PVD treated dial with sun-brushed finish
Date window at the 6 o’clock position
Hands, OMEGA logo, Constellation star and indexes in 18K Sedna™ Gold
German watch manufacturer Laco presents Edition 96, a masculine, durable and solid timepiece with a cool deep black shade. There are only 96 copies of this limited edition available and it is based on the successful Scorpion series of the company.
Within the scope of Mission 2025, a campaign working up to the company‘s 100-year anniversary, it presents the history of the traditional watchmaker as the second of altogether five „count-up“ models. With the Edition 96, a refined timepiece was created that completely satisfies the high demands and requirements in the outdoor sector and leaves behind both a stylish and fashionable impression thanks to the timeless design and technical properties.
Compared to the Laco sports and squad watches that emphasize their sporty look with fresh green, blue or orange, the Edition 96 is elegant and confident in its design without color accents while not completely denying its origin.
Just like the other models in the series, the bottom of the Edition 96 is also decorated with a relief in the form of a scorpion.
The black stainless steel case with a 42 mm diameter also convinced with its durability. Thanks to the screwed crown and bolted bottom, the Edition 96 is ready forlong dives as it is waterproof up to 30 ATM. The leather strap with a linen structure impression is also waterproof through a patented coating.
The unidirectional serrated ceramic bezel, also gives the watch a powerful impression. The dial is particularly attractive through the contrast between the minimalistic indexes in discreet gray and the powerful numbers in pure white. The minute and hour hands correspond in the same color scheme. The hands and indexes on the dial and bezel are coated in Superluminova C1 and reflect the color differences of the elements with their nuances.
Under the black shell, the Laco 200 caliber ticks (basic model: Sellita SW 200-1) and never lets down its user thanks to the automatic winding. This can be changed from the installed Elaboré quality level to Top for a fee, which convinces mechanical watch connoisseurs through higher precision.
Each of the 96 pieces will be delivered in an elegant travel pouch with a high-quality collector‘s pin and a certificate of authenticity and inspection.
Starting on December 7, 2021, the watch can be ordered at a price of 1,290 € during the pre-sale. It will then be delivered in the middle of January. For those who decide to purchase the watch until the end of the year, Laco offers a practical multi-tool from Leatherman valued at 99 € as an extra bonus.
Technical details
Model: LACO EDITION 96
Reference: 862145
Edition
Limited up to 96 pieces
Case
Stainless steel case and black PVD plating
Ø 42 mm, height 13,5 mm, lug width 20 mm
Water resistant up to 30 ATM
Double curved sapphire crystal with antireflective coating inside, stainless steel PVD plated screw back with scorpion relief, unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel, indexes with luminous material Superluminova, protected and screwed crown with “96” relief
Movement
Automatic movement Laco 200, basic movement Sellita SW200-1 (Elaboré), 26 jewels, 3 hands, date, second hand stop
Dial
Black mat dial, Arabic figures and indexes with luminous material Superluminova, white minute track
Hour with luminous material Superluminova C1, minute with Superluminova cool gray, second white with Superluminova cool gray
Strap
Black, water resistant leather strap, stainless steel buckle with black PVD plating, 20 mm lug width
Weight
Approx. 120 g
Package
Gray gift box with matching cardboard box, including limited pin and certificate of authenticity
Swiss watch brand Bell & Ross presents a new BR 05 timepiece based on the Horolum series.
In 2017, Bell & Ross presented the BR 03-92 Horolum. Its numerals and indices are embedded with one of the most powerful Super-LumiNova® coatings, the C5. The lume has an intense green colour, reminiscent of that used to light airport runways at night.
The Horolum series now presents a new version based on the BR 05, the sporty-chic collection designed for urban life. The watches in this collection revisit the brand’s iconic case. The designers have rounded the corners for a more elegant and mainstream result. The integrated “full metal” straps are one with the cases, forming a coherent whole.
From the original BR 03-92 Horolum, the BR 05 Horolum new timepiece has retained the bead-blasted steel of the case and the photo-luminescent coating of the indices on the dial.
The hands and indices of the BR 05 Horolum are covered in Super-LumiNova® C5, the most powerful photoluminescent coating that exists. It quickly accumulates light before rendering it in the dark with long-lasting intensity, thereby guaranteeing a high level of luminescence and excellent legibility at night. Its green colour, already intense during the day, is even more powerful at night.
The Horolum series has enjoyed resounding success. It has become a signature finish at Bell & Ross. The collection is characterised by the exclusive use of steel, including for the strap. The metal benefits from an innovative bead-blasted finish, lending the watch a matt mineral appearance and creating an impression of purity.
Like the case, the dial is made from bead-blasted steel, combining to form a uniform whole. This consistent treatment is reminiscent of urban constructions. The graphic design strives for purity and legibility. Only the essential indications are retained. The photoluminescent indices ensure perfect clarity when reading the time, even in the dark.
The sapphire crystal base of the watch offers an attractive view of the automatic CAL.321 Swiss mechanism. This movement features a 360° oscillating weight inspired by the wheel rims on sports cars.
This BR 05 Horolum is a limited boutique edition of 250 pieces. It is exclusively available in the 15 Bell & Ross boutiques around the world.
Carl Suchy & Söhne presents the Waltz N°1 Skeleton Blue Danube, a limited edition automatic watch that combines Viennese lifestyle with the highest craftsmanship and perfectly shaped design.
In 1866, Johann Strauss composed the Blue Danube Waltz (“An der schönen, blauen Donau”). For this masterpiece composition, he took inspiration from the beautiful Danube River. Carl Suchy & Söhne’s Waltz N°1 Skeleton Blue Danube watch also evokes the magnificence of the Danube River. Embedded entirely in blue, the rotating seconds disc represents the harmonious circles of the beloved, world-famous Viennese Waltz.
Minimalist aesthetics inspired by Adolf Loos, the pioneer of Viennese modernism, can be found in every detail of the 41.5mm stainless steel case – from the curvature of the glass that matches the case, to the smooth transition to the integrated bracelet, to the dial that curves slightly upwards towards the edge. The Waltz N°1 Skeleton Blue Danube captivates with clean lines and selected materials.
True to the brand DNA, the dial was open-worked along the subtle horizontal and vertical line pattern and adorned with the rotating seconds disc at six o’clock, whose guilloché pattern coincides with that of the dial once a minute.
The Waltz N°1 Skeleton Blue Danube is equipped with an ultra-thin automatic movement VMF 5401/180, specially adapted by Carl Suchy & Söhne, with a gold-plated micro-rotor from the quality manufacture Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, granting the movement 42 hours of autonomy.
The transparent sapphire crystal case back offers a clear view of the fine bluish rhodium-plated edges and movement bridges. To fully showcase the delicate beauty of this masterpiece of watchmaking, the individual parts of the movement have been delicately exposed and angled by hand.
The Waltz N°1 Skeleton Blue Danube can be purchased online via the web store, at a personal appointment at the private Carl Suchy & Söhne showroom in downtown Vienna and at selected international retailers, such as Hübner in Vienna, Chronopassion in Paris and Chrono Theory in Tokyo.
Technical details
Model: Waltz N°1 Skeleton Blue Danube
Case
Stainless steel case
41.5 mm diameter
Polished finish
Thickness: 9.3 mm
Extra scratch-resistant due to Crystal Guard® coating
Water resistant up to 30 meters / 3 bar
Movement
Skeleton movement caliber VMF 5401/180 with self-winding mechanism
Skeleton movement visible through transparent sapphire crystal back and dial
Gold-plated micro-rotor in the design of Carl Suchy & Sons
Geneva stripes and hand-polished edges
100 percent Swiss-made
29 rubies
Approx. 42 hours power reserve
Dial
Blue dial, opened along the guilloché lines
Display
Hours, minutes and seconds
Seconds in the form of a rotating “roller disc” at 6 o’clock
Blue alligator leather strap
Adjustable triple folding clasp
Edition
Limited to seven pieces
Retail price
€24,495 / CHF 26,495 including tax and insured shipping
MING’s 37.05 is an alluring mechanical moon phase watch. Made of stainless steel, it comes with a multi-layered sapphire dial. The apertures for date and moon lie in the lower layer dial, which is metal, textured and carries a midnight blue to black gradient reminiscent of the night sky, with a seamless sapphire dial above that carries the hour indices (laser etched, and filled with HyCeram) and a central mask for the moon to mirror the brand’s emblematic peripheral ring forms.
A full moon thus forms a complete ring, which is luminous, with partial phases being portions thereof. The date window preserves symmetry at 6 o’clock, and is as subtle as possible with a background color-matched to the dial, and the brand’s signature font in light grey.
One of the most dynamic dials from MING, it inverts completely from a seamless silver mirror to a solid blue-black with moon and date displays. The transition is gradual and most of the time, the watch presents a bit of both: a calm, reflective serenity above and a lot more visual texture below.
Instead of semicircle moon aperture, MING 37.05 features a centrally-driven moon disc to offer a sufficiently large display to allow the ring display to work.
The brand has chosen the Sellita SW288 movement to equip this timepiece. It was then further reworked in a similar style to the 7001.M1 used in the 27.01 and 27.02; it is skeletonized, matte-blasted and anthracite coated, with a contrasting portion on the main train bridge in circular-brushed rhodium. This mechanical manual-wound calibre is visible through the sapphire crystal case-back.
The 37-series case family is a core MING product line, spanning from entry level to Special Projects and everything in between. It has a flexible architecture that can accept a wide range of movements, is scalable to thickness, and can be produced in a wide range of materials. At the same time, it is a highly refined case design that has complex compound curves – such as the line from case side to lug tip – and multiple finishes.
MING has also increased the visual presence of the case with a significantly larger dial opening than the 17- series and domed front and rear crystals. However, wearability and comfort for a wide variety of wrist sizes is maintained with the same 38mm maximum diameter and 20mm lug width. In short: it looks bigger than a 17-series, but feels the same on the wrist.
Like all MING watches, this new model is a result of a long standing partnership with Manufacture Schwarz-Etienne, which is responsible for construction, production and assembly of the 37.05 collection. The brand has also partnered with Jean Rousseau Paris for straps and Studio Koji Sato for the pouches.
The 37.05 is one of the brand’s first watches to be offered on a keeperless buckle system that tucks the unused hole portion of the strap underneath the opposite end. By doing this, a given strap length works for a wider range of sizes because the unused portion effectively increases the diameter of smaller wrists.
The overall configuration is neater, more comfortable, more secure and more visually harmonious. Finally, the buckle also has built in micro adjustment simply by moving the middle spring bar.
The MING 37.05 is priced at CHF 4,950. It is available exclusively at http://www.ming.watch from 25 November 2021. The delivery expected to begin July 2022.
Technical details
Model: MING 37.05
Case
316L stainless steel
38mm diameter
11.9mm thickness (8.9mm excluding crystals)
Domed sapphire crystal front and rear, with double-sided antireflective coating
100m water resistance
20mm lug width
Dial
Composite metal and laser etched sapphire dial with inlaid HyCeram ceramic
Super-Luminova fill and blue-black vertical gradient
Luminous moon indication
Movement
Sellita for MING 288.M1, anthracite skeletonized bridges with contrast rhodium circular brushing
25.6mm, 5.65mm thickness
Central moon phase indication and date, both with quick set mechanism via crown
Manual winding with ~38h power reserve at full wind
Functions
Hours and minutes
Moon phase
Date
Straps
Black barenia leather strap by Jean Rosseau Paris
20mm width, curved bars with quick release
Fitted with 3rd generation keeperless ‘flying blade’ stainless steel buckle with micro adjustment
Package
Leather travel pouch handmade in Kuala Lumpur by Studio Koji Sato
Warranty
2-year warranty against defects
Origin
Made in Switzerland
Pricing and availability
CHF 4,950
Deliveries expected to commence July 2022
Edition of 500 watches
Cuervo y Sobrinos was founded in 1882 by Cuervo and his nephews. This group of remarkable entrepreneurs and highly skilled goldsmiths originated from Asturias, a region in northwest Spain. The Historiador Asturias honours those courageous emigrants who, in the 19th century, sailed to the Americas in the pursuit of fortune. Cuba proved a popular choice for the intrepid Asturians, eager to discover a new world and make a better life.
Asturias is a principality located in northwest Spain. Ramón Fernández Cuervo an immigrant from Pravia, a town in Asturias, established a jewellery store in Havanain 1862. Many of the Asturians were entrepreneurial and some returned to their home in northwest Spain as wealthy individuals, however, Ramon remained in Cuba and when his business was on a sound footing, he invited many of his family members to join him in Havana.
Later, in 1882, Don Ramón established a new company with his nephews (sobrinos), the aptly named ‘Cuervo y Sobrinos’. The extraordinary business acumen of Don Ramón and his family proved instrumental to their success. Over subsequent years, the firm repeatedly moved to larger premises and also became a jewellery wholesaler. The company was held in high esteem. Indeed, several watch brands chose to apply the retailer’s name to their products. Such companies included Longines, Patek Philippe and Rolex.
During the 1920s, Cuervo y Sobrinos opened offices in Paris and Pforzheim. In 1928, the company also opened a watch workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Over the years, Cuervo y Sobrinos has witnessed much change, but its success can be traced back to one man, Cuervo, an immigrant from Asturias.
The Historiador Asturias watch collection honours the Cuervo family birthplace. These new watches join the Historiador collection, a range of classical models that celebrate the history and traditions of Cuba.
History has always been at the heart of the Cuervo y Sobrinos brand. In 2009, Cuervo y Sobrinos reopened its Havana boutique. Dr Eusebio Leal Spengler, Havana’s official Historian, proved instrumental to the restoration of the boutique as well as many other glorious buildings within the capital city.
Cuervo y Sobrinos chose to recognise Dr Leal’s contribution to Havana’s architectural renaissance by naming its classical collection of watches Historiador (Historian).
The Historiador Asturias perpetuates the company’s passion for history. Offered in four variants, each option features a dial that exhibits a slightly mysterious, smoky appearance. The dial transitions from mid-tones at its centre to deep shades near the perimeter. Prospective wearers can choose from one of four dial colours, namely, Agua Blue, British Green, Negroni Red or Tropical Tobacco.
The new Asturias models have a price of approximately € 2000 (retail), a figure which reflects the company’s recent strategic decision to reposition itself more aggressively within the € 2000 and € 3000 (retail) price segment.
Graceful Lozangé-style hands collaborate with applied baton-style indexes, presenting the prevailing time in a highly intelligible format. A rectangular date aperture, positioned at 6 o’clock, reveals white numerals atop a black disc. Other details include a lithe central seconds hand and an applied CyS emblem positioned at 12 o’clock.
Cuervo y Sobrinos has equipped the Historiador Asturias with the CyS 5104 calibre, an automatic Swiss movement based on the Peseaux 224. The oscillating weight is decorated with Côtes de Genève and features the brand’s emblem.
When designing the Historiador Asturias, Cuervo y Sobrinos delved into its vast archives and took inspiration from some of its former models produced in the 1940s. The resultant case design echoes the styling of this era, but also subscribes to modern tastes with its generous diameter of 40mm.
The steel case is highly polished, accentuating its gently arcing contours. The elongated lugs project from the case, resulting in the watch sitting squarely and comfortably upon the wrist. The model features a double curved sapphire crystal enticing light to flood the dial surface, thereby augmenting readability.
The Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Asturias celebrates Cuervo, the founder of the company, his nephews and the many citizens from Asturias who chose to make Cuba their home. Collectively, these individuals have enriched Cuban society and helped make it what it is today.
Recently, the Historiador Asturias was officially unveiled at an event in the Sanchez Vallina Joyeros jewellery store, located in the town of Oviedo in Asturia. The Sanchez Vallina Joyeros jewellery store was founded in the late 1960s by Nicolás Sánchez. During the 1970s, the business moved to premises located on Asturias Street. Today, it is located on Gil de Jaz Street in Oviedo, one of the most important commercial areas of the town.
Movement
CYS 5104, base Peseux 224 automatic
Diameter: 25.6mm
Height: 4.6mm
Power reserve: 38 hours
28 jewels
Frequency: 28800 A/h
Oscillating weight with Côtes de Genève decoration, transferred logo
Functions
Hours, minutes, centre seconds and date
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter: 40mm
Height: 9.9mm
Double curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Water resistant to 3 ATM
Screwed see-through case back with sapphire crystal
Dial
3195.1ASB: Agua blue smoked dial. The date features white numerals on a black disc. An applied CyS logo is positioned at 12 o’clock.
3195.1ASR: Negroni red smoked dial. The date features white numerals on a black disc. An applied CyS logo is positioned at 12 o’clock.
3195.1AST: Tropical tobacco smoked dial. The date features white numerals on a black disc. An applied CyS logo is positioned at 12 o’clock.
3195.1ASV: British green smoked dial. The date features white numerals on a black disc. An applied CyS logo is positioned at 12 o’clock.
Hands
Losangé hour and minute hands
Centre seconds hand with counterweight
Strap
3195.1ASB: Dark Blue matte Cordoban Leather
3195.1ASR: Dark Red matte Cordoban Leather
3195.1AST: Tobacco matte Cordoban Leather
3195.1ASV: Dark Green matte Cordoban Leather
Buckle
Stainless steel folding buckle featuring an open-worked CyS-branded clasp
To mark its 13th anniversary on 11 November 2021, the Moritz Grossmann Manufacture unveiled an exquisite version of the BACKPAGE. This new horological marvel brings the exceptional design of the “mirror-inverted” calibre 107.0 to life in an ensemble of deep blue, polished steel and gold elements. The timepiece is available in a platinum case and comes in a limited edition of 13 pieces worldwide.
The Moritz Grossmann BACKPAGE series was launched in March 2018 in two precious metal versions: Rose gold and Platinum. Limited to 18 pieces, the platinum variant boasts a completely new design by making the signature mechanical highlights of the manufacture calibre – such as the Grossmann balance, the balance cock hand-engraved with floral motifs, and the 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel – visible on the dial. The small seconds display also enjoys a prominent position thanks to the extravagant bearing for the second hand featuring a gold chaton.
In 2020, the Manufacture introduced BACKPAGE Transparent, in which the precision-mechanical ensemble was accented by a sapphire crystal printed with indices and numerals.
Launched in 2021, the new variation of the BACKPAGE dispenses entirely with numerals and indices and adds an expressive colour, the BACKPAGE Blue. Thanks to a wafer-thin layer of metal oxide, which is applied with nanometric precision of 1 millionth of a millimetre after finishing the components, all frame parts are resplendent in a deep blue hue.
The colour is durable and resistant to environmental influences, possessing a unique brilliance that creates a charming contrast to the gold-plated gear wheels, the gold chatons, the polished steel hands crafted in the manufactory, the carefully bevelled and polished screw heads and the ratchet wheel embellished with a 3-band snailing finish.
An innovative coating process is employed on the surfaces of all the frame parts, resulting in a fascinating interplay of light and colour that enhances the beauty of the mechanism.
The calibre 107.0 was designed by Moritz Grossmann to attain this expressive visual impression on the front of the dial. While at first glance it may seem to be a mirror image of the calibre 100.1, it is actually based on a new technical approach. An additional wheel between the crown wheel and the ratchet wheel reverses the entire drive train with respect to the rotation of the mainspring barrel. The wheel train runs in the right direction thanks to the mirrored escapement and the mirrored oscillation system – also including the balance spring coiling direction.
The larger dimensions of the 2/3 plate necessitated design changes for the balance cock and the escape-wheel cock. The cantilevered geometry of the escape-wheel cock creates a balanced accent in the overall arrangement of the movement. The exceptionally luxurious high-artistic finish of the two components is fascinating with its masterly handcrafted engravings, chamfers and bevels.
To achieve the desired presence of the winding wheels on the dial side, the dial train was reconfigured. The artistically finished train wheels were arranged beneath a highly polished and bevelled minute-wheel bridge. Since in this case, the hand-setting mechanism is located on the opposite side of the movement, the setting wheel extends all the way through the calibre. The new arrangement created space for the optimised barrel bearing and the ratchet wheel, which was also shifted to the front side.
Even though the front mesmerises with a deft display of carefully selected components, the view of the back is equally captivating. One of the highlights here is the functional sequence of the winding mechanism, which is openly integrated into the wheel bridge. Almost all of its components are mirrored in order to guarantee their function even when mounted in the opposite position while ensuring the position of the lever remains unchanged.
The stop-seconds and stop-balance functions have also been redesigned. In the hand-setting mechanism, the brake position is sampled at the clutch lever and, via a push rod, transferred to the brake spring, which then stops the balance. After the pusher is activated and the movement starts, the brake spring returns the push rod to its rest position.
This new timepiece is worn with a dark blue strap made of hand-stitched alligator leather.
Technical details
Model: BACKPAGE Blue
Reference: MG-003108
Movement
Manufactory calibre 107.0, manual winding, regulated in five positions
No. of parts: 230
Diameter: 36.4 mm
Height: 5.0 mm
Jewels: 24 jewels, 11 gold chatons, of which 7 in screwed chatons
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Shock-absorbed Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve, Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
Balance Diameter: 14.2 mm, frequency: 18,000 semi-oscillations/hour
Power reserve: 42 hours when fully wound
Functions
Hours, minutes and subsidiary seconds with stop second, Grossmann manual winder with pusher
Operating elements
Crown in platinum to wind the watch and set the time, pusher in platinum to start the movement
Case
Three-part, platinum
Diameter: 41.0 mm
Height: 11.35 mm
Crystal/display back: Sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on one side
Hands
Manually crafted from steel polished
Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in platinum
Special features
Balance staff with integrated safety roller, location of the impulse pin in the balance (Glashütte style); index adjuster with Grossmann micrometer screw; plate movement with 3/4 plate on dial side, frame pillars and separately removable clutch winding mechanism; visible hand setting train on the back side of the movement; frame parts in German silver with metal-oxide coating; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; ratchet wheel with stopwork on the modified spring barrel bearing with a gold chaton in the ratchet wheel; dial train wheels spoked and bevelled, beneath polished bridge
On 11 December, Phillips is offering at auction, the very first – and only timepiece currently available – of the limited series Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1A-018 Nautilus wristwatches in stainless steel fitted with Tiffany Blue® dials. Commemorating 170 years of partnership between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co., a limited series of 170 watches in total will be produced, each with the dual stamping of both companies, “Tiffany & Co.” at 6 o’clock paired with Patek Philippe at 12 o’clock.
The remaining 169 watches will only be available to the market following Phillips’ sale of this first timepiece. Estimated in excess of $50,000, this Tiffany Blue® Nautilus will open The 2021 New York Watch Auction at 432 Park Avenue. 100% of the sale’s proceeds will benefit The Nature Conservancy, one of the most highly regarded global environmental organizations.
The legibility of the dial with the horizontal relief embossing, a Nautilus signature element, is amplified by baton hour markers as well as luminous baton hour and minute hands, all in blackened white gold. The inimitable design of the case, the bezel, and the integrated steel bracelet is emphasized by the refined sequence of satin-finished and polished links applied by hand in a process that requires 55 production steps to complete for each watch.
Image Copyright @ Phillips/Patek Philippe
The rugged case is water-resistant to 120 meters. It accommodates the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C, a movement that features various technical innovations and optimizations as well as a stop-seconds mechanism that allows the time to be set with one-second accuracy.
In 1851, Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. forged an agreement that made the American jeweler the first official retail partner for Patek Philippe timepieces in the U.S. market. The sapphire-crystal case back of the limited series series bears the commemorative inscription “170th Anniversary 1851-2021 Tiffany & Co. – Patek Philippe.” It pays tribute to the 170-year shared vision and the historic ties that link Patek Philippe with the United States.
Today, Tiffany & Co. is the world’s only retailer whose name appears on a Patek Philippe dial, making any Tiffany-signed timepiece extremely sought after. Throughout the 19th, 20th, and 21st centuries, much has changed, but the relationship between Tiffany & Co. and Patek Philippe has only grown. The present lot is a rare and stunning limited series Nautilus exemplifying the strength of their long-lasting partnership, and is certain to delight any watch enthusiast.
The Nautilus reference 5711 is the modern iteration Patek Philippe’s first luxury sports wristwatch, originally launched in 1976. This casually elegant icon premiered in 2006 and will be retired from the collection in 2022.
Following the auction on 11 December, the remaining watches from the series will be available exclusively through Tiffany locations in New York, Beverly Hills, and San Francisco that carry Patek Philippe.
Auction: 11 & 12 December 2021, 10am Auction viewing: 6 to 10 December Location: 432 Park Avenue, New York
At the charitable 2021 Only Watch auction which took place in Geneva on Saturday, November 6, the Patek Philippe Ref. 27001M-001 desk clock with a perpetual calendar, a power reserve of 31 days, and a totally new patented mechanism fetched an amazing amount of 9.5 million Swiss francs.
The manufacture is proud and delighted that this amount has been donated to the Monaco Association against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy (Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies AMM) in its efforts to pursue the development of therapies for the treatment of degenerative neuromuscular diseases.
Since 2005, Patek Philippe has been supporting the charitable Only Watch timepiece auction, each time donating a special unique version of one of its wristwatches, usually a grand complication. For the Only Watch auction in 2021, the manufacture opted for a new approach and created a desk clock with a novel mechanism as well as unique features.
Patek Philippe took inspiration from a desk clock with a perpetual calendar and a power reserve of 8 days originally created in 1922/1923 for James Ward, an engineer and automobile manufacturer who ranked among the most loyal and illustrious customers of the manufacture. Today, this timepiece can be admired in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva (Inv. No. P-140). But the engineers were tasked with the creation of a totally new manually wound movement with a power reserve of 31 days, a rate accuracy of ±1 seconds per day and a level of user-friendliness worthy of a 21st-century caliber.
The result of seven years of development work is the rectangular caliber 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE with the Patek Philippe Seal; it is composed of 919 parts of which nearly half belong to the perpetual calendar. Its development was accompanied by nine patent applications. They relate to innovations and optimizations to boost long-term reliability, to reduce energy consumption of the perpetual calendar, to improve user convenience, and to safeguard functionality in the event of incorrect manipulation.
The power reserve of 31 days is achieved with three spring barrels connected in series. To guarantee a maximum rate deviation of ± 1 second per day, the engineers endowed the movement with a veritable precision adjustment ensemble.
With a patented constant-force mechanism, it assures that the amplitude of the balance remains constant for an entire month, from the first to the last day of the power reserve. A discreetly positioned power-reserve indicator in the middle of the dial informs the user when the movement needs to be rewound.
As regards functions in comparison with the “Packard” desk clock, Patek Philippe added two innovations.
One of them is a jumping second (also referred to as a seconde morte) that in the style of antique regulator clocks performs a small jump every second. The second one is a weekly calendar – the useful display of the week number – which thanks to a small frame on the edge of the dial that moves along the week number scale makes it quickly and easily legible. The manufacture retained the display of hours and minutes on an off-center subdial at 12 o’clock, the moon-phase display at 6 o’clock, and the day/month indications in apertures at 9 and 3 o’clock.
The date display of the perpetual calendar – in the “Packard” clock, it uses a hand from the center – is an analog date with a subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock. It is supplemented with two aperture displays for the day/night indication (at 7:30) and the leap year cycle (at 4:30). Both displays are indispensable for setting the calendar. All displays stand out very legibly against the opaline 3N yellow gilt dial.
For the unique Only Watch 2021 timepiece, the designers largely adopted the shape of the “Packard” desk clock, albeit in a slightly larger scale. At the same time, they gave it an innovative touch, endowing it with a veritable mechanical dashboard beneath a hinged cover which folds open to the left. With the modern control desk, all settings can be made intuitively, simply, and practically – fully in line with Patek Philippe’s user-centric philosophy.
Beneath the hinged cover in the upper left-hand corner, there is a socket with a patented ejection system for the key used to wind and set the clock – a multi-part, artistically finished accessoire. The upper right-hand corner has two key openings for setting the time and winding the movement. Thanks to its ample power reserve, the desk clock will operate 31 days each time it is fully wound.
The engineers placed five correctors beneath the dial. The correctors are marked with letters on symbols and can be operated with fingertip convenience to set the perpetual calendar from left to right in the same order as they appear on the dial: Week, day of the week (Day), moon phases (crescent moon), Month and date (Calendar).
It takes a complex system of mechanical countershafts to be able to arrange these correctors on an arc. Directly beneath it, a further opening makes it possible to stop and restart the movement with a key. Thanks to this stop-seconds feature, the time can be set with one-second accuracy.
For the looks of the Only Watch desk clock, Patek Philippe took inspiration from the richly decorated historic role model and reinterpreted it in a classic-timeless manner. The case in 925 silver carries veneers of precious American walnut in reference to Packard’s homeland and is decorated with traditional screen-printed gold fillets.
The case edge shows a cord motif that is repeated on the bezel. We see silver-gilt appliques in the style of the decorative elements on the 1923 desk clock; three rosettes in the bottom corners and at 12 o’clock, acanthus scrollwork that frames the Calatrava cross, and four case feet depicting griffon vultures. A plaque on the narrow front side bears the inscription “THE ONLY ONE” to emphasize the one-of-a-kind aspect of this exclusive treasure.
The nine patents of the caliber 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE
Patent 1: Ejection system for the winding and setting key recessed beneath the hinged cover.
Patent 2: Ratchet restraint to assure the perfect rotation and truth in the flat of all three spring barrels.
Patent 3: System for using the spring barrels in both directions with the aid of an intermediate barrel that rotates in the opposite direction of the two others.
Patent 4: Constant force mechanism to assure stability of the balance amplitude from the first to the last day of the power-reserve range.
Patent 5: Power-reserve indicator with an elastic endpoint and connection to the wheel train so that the movement can continue to run when the indicator stands at zero.
Patent 6: Limitation of the path of the large lever to save energy as long as this component is not active.
Patent 7: Optimized stop pawl to reduce energy consumption of the perpetual calendar.
Patent 8: Double-jump suppression for the week number display while the display aperture is rotating.
Patent 9: Activation of the correction function on every 1st day of the month to assure a correction of the displays in the proper sequence.
In addition to its existing blue, green and grey designs, the Panova by Nautische Instrumente Mühle-Glashütte is now also available with a stunning red face.
The eye-catching face of the Panova also features a finely grained finish that causes its bold red colour to vary depending on the light, changing from a dark shade to a lighter shade.
The new dial colour is complemented by a selection of two straps that can be easily changed in a matter of seconds and fit all existing models. For a sporty approach to life, the textile strap in black with grey stripes is not only practical but also perfectly complements the black indices and brushed stainless steel case of the Panova Red. Its sophisticated alternative is a black leather strap with a retro surface finish.
The case itself is water-resistant up to 10 bars and features a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and a screw-in crown, thus providing reliable protection for the watch’s precise automatic movement. As in other models, the SW 200-1 Mühle version movement inside the case continues to excel thanks to its efficient Mühle rotor and particularly shockproof woodpecker neck regulation.
These impressive components allow it to be regulated in six different positions and set to ensure accuracy values of between 0 and a maximum of +8 seconds per day. This precision target forms the heart of Mühle’s own regulation standards, which comply with the German chronometer standard, and helps to ensure that the watch never runs slow.
Technical details
Model: Panova Red
Movement
SW 200-1 automatic Mühle version with patented woodpecker neck regulation, own rotor and characteristic surface finishes
Stop-second
38-hr power reserve
Case
Brushed stainless steel
Anti-glare sapphire crystal
Screw-in crown
Case dimensions: Ø 40.0 mm; H 10.4 mm
Water-resistant to 10 bars
Dial
Red dial
Hour markers and hands coated in Super LumiNova
Strap
Textile or leather strap with a stainless steel pin buckle
Swiss watch brand Auguste Reymond presents the ORIGIN collection inspired by astronomy and mathematics, the two disciplines at the origin of watchmaking.
The ORIGIN watch embodies a cosmographic approach to time, where science and mystery of the universe, from the infinitely big to the infinitely small, are one.
This hand-wound timepiece also pays tribute to the famous UNITAS calibre developed by Auguste Reymond. Known across the world for its robustness and outstanding reliability, this manually wound mechanical movement now equips every model in the ORIGIN series.
Inspired by the proportions of sacred geometry, the ORIGIN watch case is harmoniously balanced in aspect. With a diameter of 44 mm, its design, decidedly characteristic of modern watchmaking, comprises four distinct but intimately interrelated elements: the housing containing the movement, protected by a skeletonised case with openwork horns and middle, the bezel and the screwed case back.
Available in two versions (with black or white dial), this sleek timepiece boasts a small seconds indication at six o’clock. It embodies Auguste Reymond’s stylistic and trend-bucking modernity.
The Arabic numerals and the rail track minute circle make for appreciable reading comfort, further enhanced by the drawn out silhouettes of the hours and minutes hands.
Technical details
Case
Stainless steel case
Screwed bezel
Skeletonised stainless steel crown
Diameter: Ø 44 mm
Water resistance: 100 m
Movement
Hand-wound mechanical movement, UNITAS
Power reserve: 44 hours
Hours, minutes and small seconds
Dial
Vintage white or black dial
AR Compass-like hands with Super-LumiNova®
Strap
Vintage brown calf leather strap 22/20
Folding buckle, single swing
Guided by creativity and the desire to explore new technological frontiers in watchmaking, Swiss watch brand Perrelet presents the new Lab Peripheral Dual Time Big Date automatic watch. It comes in three versions and features useful functions such as the second-time zone with day-night indicator and the calendar with a big double window.
