Hanhart 417 ES Flyback

November 25, 2022 MasterHorologer

Hanhart presents the new 417 ES Flyback series to mark its 140th anniversary. The watch is available in two case sizes with two dial options, each of which is equipped with a manual-winding flyback calibre with its integrated column wheel.

When Hanhart reissued the legendary 417 ES two years ago in a 42 mm stainless steel case, it marked the beginning of a great success story for Hanhart. Earlier this year, the brand released an additional version — the 417 ES 1954 — which, with its 39 mm case, is the same size as the historical watch.

The historic 417 ES, originally designed for pilots of the German Air Force, was equipped with “Temposchaltung”, as the flyback function is also called. The mechanism allows immediate measurement of a new timing interval by using the reset pusher. The new, first-class AMT5100 M calibre originates from Sellita’s manufacture AMT department. It controls the chronograph via column wheel and has a power reserve of at least 58 hours when fully wound.

In order to make the new 417 ES Flyback as versatile as possible, Hanhart is offering both 39 mm and 42 mm stainless-steel cases.

Apart from the size, there is only one technological difference between the 39 mm and 42 mm models: the 42 mm watch has a transparent sapphire crystal caseback revealing the new flyback calibre, while the 39 mm model is manufactured with an anti-magnetic case, which is resistant up to 16,000 A/m according to DIN 8309. All of the new timepieces are water-resistant up to 10 bar.

In addition to the technical development, the new 417 ES Flyback stands out visually from the previously launched versions. Each case size is available with both the white and black Panda dial or the black and white Reverse Panda dial.

Either of the two designs provides strong contrasts and perfect readability even in poor lighting conditions, thanks to use of Super-LumiNova C3.

Released to celebrate Hanhart’s 140th anniversary, the four new models of the 417 ES Flyback pay tribute to the brand’s history in producing precision chronographs. They are part of Hanhart’s permanent, non-limited collection and available now for € 2,390 incl.

Technical details

Hanhart 417 ES 1954 Flyback Panda and Reverse Panda 39

Case
Stainless steel, satined/polished
Diameter 39 mm, Height with glass 13.5 mm (11,55 mm without glass)
Crown with the historic Hanhart “h”
Fluted rotating bezel, continuously rotatable, with red marking
Anti-reflective convex sapphire glass
High-domed sapphire glass
Screwed-down stainless steel case back
Water resistant to 10 bar/10 ATM according to DIN 8310
Continuous serial number
Shockproof with Hanhart movement protection
Antimagnetic up to 16.000 A/m according to DIN 8309
Engraving of the historical logo on the case back

Dial and hands
Panda or Reverse Panda dial
Historical Logo
Super-LumiNova® Light Old Radium coated numerals and hand
Minute and Second hand bent at tip to prevent parallax errors

Movement
Column wheel flyback movement
Manual wound chronograph
Sellita AMT5100 M
Symmetrical button arrangement
28.800 A/h, 4 Hz, 23 jewels
Power reserve minimum 58 hours after full winding

Functions
Flyback
Small second
30-minute counter
Bicompax Chronograph with central stop-second

Strap
Black calfskin strap with white stitching and leather underlay
Alcantara on the inside
Pin-buckle with historical logo, Lug width 20 mm

Price
2,390.00 Euro incl. 19% German VAT

Hanhart 417 ES Flyback Panda and Reverse Panda 42

Case
Stainless steel, satined/polished
Diameter 42 mm, Height with glass 13.5 mm (11,55 mm without glass)
Crown with the historic Hanhart “h”
Fluted rotating bezel, continuously rotatable, with red marking
Anti-reflective convex sapphire glass
High-domed sapphire glass
Screwed-down stainless steel case back
Water resistant to 10 bar/10 ATM according to DIN 8310
Continuous serial number
See-through caseback with sapphire glass

Dial and hands
Panda or Reverse Panda dial
Historical Logo
Super-LumiNova® Light Old Radium coated numerals and hand
Minute and Second hand bent at tip to prevent parallax errors

Movement
Column wheel flyback movement
Manual wound chronograph
Sellita AMT5100 M
Symmetrical button arrangement
28.800 A/h, 4 Hz, 23 jewels
Power reserve minimum 58 hours after full winding

Functions
Flyback
Small second
30-minute counter
Bicompax Chronograph with central stop-second

Strap
Black calfskin strap with white stitching and leather underlay
Alcantara on the inside
Pin-buckle with historical logo, Lug width 21 mm

Price
2,390.00 Euro incl. 19% German VAT

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Rabbit

November 14, 2022 MasterHorologer

To celebrate the upcoming Chinese New Year, Vacheron Constantin presents Métiers d’Art The legend of the Chinese zodiac with the sign of the rabbit.

Symbolising graciousness, kindness and benevolence in traditional Chinese culture, the rabbit will take over from the tiger at the Chinese New Year on 22 January 2023. To mark the Year of the rabbit Vacheron Constantin presents new creations, issued in limited series of 9 each in platinum and 18K pink gold.

This limited Métiers d’Art series brings to light the paper-cutting technique known as Jianzhi, a popular art echoed in Swiss culture through its famous Scherenschnitt paper-cutting. This artistic approach, highlighted in the Métiers d’Art The legend of the Chinese zodiac, has been given a fresh interpretation thanks to the expertise of the master engravers and enamellers.

The vegetal motifs appearing on the dial and based on classic Chinese iconography are etched directly in the metal. The pattern remains semi-embedded and stands out from its gold base by a subtle stage-setting of variously accentuating reliefs creating a depth effect. This makes the vegetation appear to be floating over the dial.

Then comes the stage of Grand Feu enamelling, an ancestral technique that remains the preserve of a very few particularly skilled artisans. The animal, made of platinum or pink gold, is hand engraved and delicately applied to the dial centre.

Calibre 2460 G4 makes it possible to create a distinctive and ideal stage-setting for the decorative arts, by giving the central dial motif a starring role. This self-winding watch has four apertures showing the hours, minutes, days and dates.

Clearly visible through the sapphire crystal back, the 22-carat gold oscillating weight features a decor inspired by the Maltese cross emblem.

All movement components are indeed finely finished in accordance with the criteria of the Hallmark of Geneva.

Technical details

Model: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The legend of the Chinese zodiac – Year of the rabbit
References 86073/000P-B932 and 86073/000R-B933

Movement
Calibre 2460 G4
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
31 mm (11¼’’’) diameter, 6.05 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour)
237 components
27 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces

Indications
Hours, minutes, day of the week and date in apertures

Case
Platinum/18K 5N pink gold
40 mm diameter, 12.72 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3bar (approx.30 meters)

Dial
18K gold, hand-engraved, Grand Feu enamelled
Hand-engraved platinum/18K 5N pink gold rabbit

Strap
Dark blue/brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Clasp
Platinum/18K 5N pink gold folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen

Edition
Limited series of 9 pieces per reference
Only available through the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques

Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather 50th Anniversary Limited Edition

October 28, 2022 MasterHorologer

Jacob & Co. presents a limited edition Opera watch to mark the 50th anniversary of The Godfather, the classic movie that won 3-time Oscar and 5-time Golden Globe.

The Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather 50th Anniversary is a 50-piece limited series, a striking cinematic, graphic and musical recollection of Francis Ford Coppola’s cult classic. This haute-horlogerie creation in 18K white gold incorporates the brand’s emblematic triple-axis flying tourbillon and music box complication.

Only a handful of movies have had as deep and lasting an influence as The Godfather. The Opera Godfather series by Jacob & Co. has been designed and crafted as a tribute to the movie’s unique status in both popular and cinema culture.

The Opera Godfather 50th Anniversary incorporates thirteen greatest scenes, in the same narrative order as in the movie. This graphic synopsis is laser-etched onto the white gold case with an unprecedented level of vividness and quality.

The piece also features the movie’s thirteen most famous quotes, some of which are firmly anchored in popular culture, the most famous being “I’m gonna make him an offer he can’t refuse.”

This 50-piece limited series is housed in a 49-mm white gold case whose sides are decorated with thirteen emblematic scenes from the movie. Each scene is etched on the case using ground-breaking high-intensity, high-precision femtolaser technology that allows an unparalleled level of realism and vividness.

The etching process creates an almost imperceptible texture, so that just as you see the scene, you actually feel the frame from The Godfather‘s movie reel. Chief among them is the image of Don Vito Corleone, etched between the lugs at 6 o’clock.

In the middle of caliber JCFM04, The Godfather‘s emblematic red rose, rendered with incredible realism and quality, rests between the two musical barrels. They power the two-part music box mechanism that plays The Godfather‘s main theme, one of the foundational features of the collection.

In this instance, these barrels have been crafted out of solid rose gold, and each engraved with a total of thirteen cult quotes from the movie. The pieces that cover the blades which create the melody have also been designed especially for this limited edition. One, in the shape of a piano, bears the image of Don Corleone and the other the puppeteer’s strings from the original movie poster.

By incorporating a new set of literal symbols and key elements of the movie’s imagery into the Opera Godfather 50th Anniversary, Jacob & Co. delivers a unique concept. This horological masterpiece fuses the art of watchmaking with symbolism.

In watchmaking terms, the Opera Godfather is a triple-axis tourbillon watch with twin music boxes, complete with combs and barrels. They play The Godfather‘s main theme, composed by Nino Rota, from the movie’s score. As the music plays, the entire movement spins as if in a dance while the off-centered dial turns in the opposite direction so as to remain upright.

In symbolic terms, it celebrates certain artifacts from The Godfather which have become part of pop and cinematic culture: the rose Vito Corleone wears on his lapel at his daughter’s wedding; the puppeteer strings originally featured on Mario Puzo’s original novel cover, which later became the movie’s poster; Marlon Brando himself, featured on one of the piano covers.

Limited to 50 pieces, each Opera Godfather 50th Anniversary comes in its special wood case, lined with red velvet. It contains a crystal decanter with a high-resolution print of Marlon Brando and The Godfather main logo. It also contains an all-new version of The Godfather Pen, which is an integral part of the Jacob & Co. Godfather universe.

This black celluloid fountain pen features an ample rose resting at the top of the cap, rendered in red and green enamel.

Technical details

Model: Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather 50th Anniversary

Movement
Caliber: exclusive manufacture Jacob&Co hand-wound JCFM04
Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 17.2 mm
Material: steel, brass, platinum and titanium
Components: 658
Power reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 21’600 vph (3 Hz)
Jewels: 58
System: triple-axis flying tourbillon, music box with double comb
Bridges and plates shot-blasted and black-PVD
Barrels with circular graining
Screws: beveled and mirror-polished

Functions
Subsidiary hour and minute rotating dial with differential
Triple-axis flying tourbillon (97 components; 1.79g)
– 1st axis: rotation in 24 seconds
– 2nd axis: rotation in 48 seconds
– 3rd axis: rotation in 180 seconds
The Godfather main theme melody activated by pusher at 10 o’clock
Rotation of 2 cylinders against 2 combs (36 teeth in total) playing a melody of 120 notes
Miniature rose figurine at the center of the movement
Black-DLC pianos with rose gold decor
Movement rotation of 120° in 30 seconds

Case
Diameter: 49 mm
Height: 20 mm
Material: 18K white gold
Case back: 18K white gold
Caseband: 18K white gold, laser-etched with 13 scenes from The Godfather
Time-setting: 18K rose gold bow on case back
Winding: 18K rose gold violin-shaped crank-handle
Crystal: domed sapphire with double anti-reflective treatment
Water resistance: 30 m (100ft/3 atm)

Dial
Dial: black mat polish and 18K rose gold applique Index
Hands: blued Jacob&Co designed hands

Strap
Black alligator leather strap with 18K rose gold folding clasp

Warranty
2-year international warranty

Edition
Limited edition of 50 pieces in 18k white gold

Price
500’000 USD (excluding taxes)

Naissance D’une Montre 3

September 25, 2022October 25, 2022 MasterHorologer

‘Naissance d’une Montre” (‘Birth of a Watch’) brings together craftsmen in an endeavour to preserve horological knowledge; the result is an alliance of talent and expertise characterised by cooperation and sharing.

After having unveiled the fusée-and-chain mechanism and the machine tools that will be used to produce ‘Naissance d’une Montre 3’ timepieces, the third act of the project highlights the depth and breadth of the watchmaking community – and the players striving to make this initiative a success.

As the saying goes, the journey is as important as the destination – and that is very much the spirit in which the ‘Naissance d’une Montre’ project has been carried out since its inception in 2009.

The adage also frames the undertaking entrusted to the teams from Chopard and Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud headed up by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. Now underway, the third phase aims to secure the long-term future of traditional watchmaking knowhow.

The heritage aspirations of the ‘Naissance d’une Montre 3’ project are now becoming clear, as is the strong emphasis on collaboration. The challenge is to promote what used to be known as the ‘common weal’: reviving the collaborative network that formerly extended from Geneva to Jura via Neuchâtel. For three centuries, this arc served as the backbone of watchmaking expertise, embodied not only in specific crafts and workshops but also in tools and books located throughout combe and valley.

‘Naissance d’une Montre 3’ seeks to perpetuate this culture of sharing. Reaching beyond watchmaking museums and associations, the initiative aims to draw together the talents of today and yesteryear, collating notes and sketches and harnessing this collective wisdom for a common purpose: not just the resulting timepieces in and of themselves, but above all the preservation of every aspect of the knowhow that is bringing them into being.

The Time Æon Foundation was established for this purpose in 2005. Bolstered by the experience built up during the ‘Naissance d’une Montre 1’ and ‘Naissance d’une Montre 2’ projects, the Foundation is now making its network and knowledge available to ensure the successful completion of the third phase.

Another result of this collaborative spirit is the emergence of a fully-fledged watchmaking guild, founded on the principle of knowledge-sharing, in which all the stakeholders are pooling their expertise to create an exceptional timepiece which will bear the Chronométrie Ferdinand-Berthoud name.

Among those playing an active role in the project are Greubel Forsey, with the firm providing its in-house experts through the Time Æon foundation, and independent watchmaker Vianney Halter, offering his expertise in the traditional construction and finishing of the fusée and chain mechanism already revealed as being part of the ‘Naissance d’une Montre 3’ project. Another independent contributor is Sylvain Pinaud, providing invaluable advice on the use of the highly specialised lathes used to machine shafts and pins.

Institutional players who serve as the custodians of watchmaking’s archives have also supplied precious resources. The Geneva Watchmaking School has lent its support to the project, too, selecting and releasing a number of historical documents revealing details of the legendary ‘tricks of the trade’ used by leading local watchmakers in times gone by.

Handwritten notes, freehand sketches, and watchmaking treatises by Ferdinand Berthoud and Louis Moinet are also among the raw materials being studied by the watchmakers involved in ‘Naissance d’une Montre’.

The International Museum of Horology at La Chaux-de-Fonds has opened up its inventory registers, providing valuable context that sheds further light on our understanding of a number of traditional machines, particularly those used to fashion the fusée. New tools based on the findings of this archive work are presently in the design phase.

“We’re working together, not just for the cause of a particular watch, but above all to promote the collaborative approach that underpins it”, explains Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. “We have a duty as the heirs to such a great legacy, and we’re delighted to see these watchmakers working with a common aim in mind: ensuring this legacy continues to be handed down and that the historical record is preserved”.

Together, Chopard’s technicians and expert craftsmen are currently working with the artisans at Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, moving forward with the prototype design phase.

The first watch in this limited edition of 11 pieces is expected to be completed in 2024. Collectors will be won over by its entirely new regulating organ, designed in the finest watchmaking tradition.

About “Naissance d’une Montre”

Begun in 2009, “Naissance d’une Montre” is a joint undertaking to reverse the loss of traditional watchmaking knowhow. The initiative brings together a select group of leading independent watchmakers and Fine Watchmaking firms within the Time Æon Foundation, established with the specific aim of ensuring this heritage is passed on through documentation, preservation, and training for the next generation.

One practical outworking of this mission is the production of hand-made, hand-decorated timepieces using historic, manually operated machines without the use of digital technology. Each piece is the fruit of the labours of multiple watchmaking experts – and the apprentices who will one day inherit the responsibility of sharing this knowhow.

Known for his particular commitment to preserving watchmaking heritage, President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud and Co-President of Chopard Karl-Friedrich Scheufele has been keen to support the Time Æon Foundation by being part of the “Naissance d’une Montre 3” project.

Eleven Ferdinand Berthoud timepieces will be made as part of this initiative; the first watch will be sold by auction, with the proceeds going to the Foundation.

MeisterSinger Neo with Sunburst Green Dégradé Dial

August 13, 2022 MasterHorologer

The MeisterSinger Neo watch is now available in a new dial color version.

With its slim case and variants in diameters of 36 and 40 mm, the Neo is one of the most elegant models in the MeisterSinger collection.

It’s not only the clear, well-balanced design that makes the Neo look like a classic watch from the 60s, but also the two-piece case construction, consisting of a middle section and the case back, which was typical for that time.

In combination with the domed glass, which was popular at the time, the Neo is designed without a bezel, creating a unique look with its narrow case rim and huge dial.

The functional typography with its continuous double-digit hour numerals from 01 to 12, the circumferential five-minute divisions, and the single, needle-shaped hour hand make the Neo a genuine MeisterSinger classic.

In addition to the colors ivory and sunburst blue, a green variant that features a color transition from light in the center to black at the edge of the dial is making its debut this year.

The technique, known as dégradé, was also highly popular in the 1960s and looks captivatingly beautiful with its strong radiant green sunburst finish.

Technical details

Model: MeisterSinger NEO 36 and NEO 40

Movement
Sellita SW 200, Automatic, power reserve 38 h, date

Case
Stainless steel
Diameter: 36 or 40 mm
Hardened acryl glass
Water resistance: 3 bar
Screwed case back

Dial
Sunburst green with Dégradé

Strap
Suede leather, cognac; Cordovan leather, brown

Recommended retail price
1,150€ for 36mm version and 1,250€ for 40mm version

DAVOSA Argonautic BG Automatic

August 13, 2022August 13, 2022 MasterHorologer

Swiss watch brand DAVOSA presents a new version of its Argonautic watch diving watch.

The first version of this timepiece was introduced in 2008. Now the brand has announced the launch of Argonautic BG, a new model with quite a few amazing and interesting details.

Elegant in appearance, DAVOSA Argonautic BG features a 30 ATM water-resistant stainless steel case with new fluted bezel, screw-down crown, and helium escape valve.

The stainless steel TriaLink bracelet with individual screws and diver’s extension make the Argonautic very comfortable to wear both with and without a diving suit. On the new version, the clearly-structured dial has hand-applied satin-finish indexes.

The SuperLumiNova® BG W9 luminous material on the numerals and hands as well as in the luminous dot on the bezel ensures that the wearer can read the watch perfectly, even in poor visibility under water. One small element, the second hand, has also been reworked and its coloured arrowhead points at the second markers.

The high-tech ceramic bezel has long been an impressive feature of the DAVOSA Argonautic. This scratch-resistant feature is there again on the new version.

DAVOSA has developed a new material for the new Argonautic that’s in no way inferior to high-tech ceramics in terms of its technical advantages, and that has the appearance of steel: BEYOND STEEL®.

This high-performance material is as heavy as gold (density 19.3g/cm³), almost as hard as diamond (9.5 Mohs scale) and can withstand extremely high temperatures (melting point 2,950 C°).

BEYOND STEEL® is practically indestructible, completely resistant to chemicals and is both non-corrosive and nickel-free. With a hardness four times that of titanium and twice that of steel, BEYOND STEEL® is an ideal material for the bezel inlays of the new DAVOSA Argonautic. They are a feature of the Argonautic BGBS model.

Besides the classic Argonautic BG with a black dial, there are coloured versions in deep blue and emerald green, as well as a silver-white dial combined with the newly-developed BEYOND STEEL® bezel.

There are also a total of three strap variants to choose from: the sporty TriaLink metal strap, the fine-linked PentaLink metal strap or the fashionable Milanaise metal strap.

Technical details

Model: DAVOSA Argonautic BG Automatic

Reference numbers
161.528.01: Argonautic BGBS, silver-white, PentaLink strap
161.528.10: Argonautic BGBS, silver-white, TriaLink strap
161.528.11: Argonautic BGBS, silver-white, Milanaise strap
161.528.02: Argonautic BG, black, PentaLink strap
161.528.20: Argonautic BG, black, TriaLink strap
161.528.22: Argonautic BG, strap, Milanaise strap
161.528.04: Argonautic BG, deep blue, PentaLink strap
161.528.40: Argonautic BG, deep blue, TriaLink strap
161.528.44: Argonautic BG, deep blue, Milanaise strap
161.528.07: Argonautic BG, emerald green, PentaLink strap
161.528.70: Argonautic BG, emerald green, TriaLink strap
161.528.77: Argonautic BG, emerald green, Milanaise strap

Movement
Swiss automatic movement DAV 3021 (Base Sellita SW200-1)

Case
Satin-finish stainless steel case
Screw-down crown and back
Scratch-resistant and anti-reflective sapphire glass
Watertight down to 300 metres (30 ATM)
Bezel: Luminous dot on the ceramic or BEYOND STEEL® bezel inlay
Dimensions: Ø 43 mm, height 13.5 mm
Manual helium valve

Dial
SuperLumiNova® BG W9 on the indexes and hands
Date

Strap
Metal strap with folding clasp and diver’s extension
Strap lug 22 mm

Recommended Retail Price
898.00 Euros incl. VAT or RRP 928.00 Euros incl. VAT (Argonautic BGBS with BEYOND STEEL® bezel inlay)

Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 116600 Vs Ref. 126600

July 24, 2022 MasterHorologer

Introduced in 1967, Sea-Dweller is a series of deep-diving watches from Rolex. The reference 116600 was launched in 2014 and the ref. 126600 in 2017. The brand discontinued the Sea-Dweller Ref. 116600 in 2017. Let us compare these two Sea-Dweller watches.

Case

The case material is same: 904L steel (now known as Oyster steel). The diameter is different: 40mm for Ref. 116600 and 43mm for Ref. 126600. Water resistant to 1,220 metres (4,000 feet), both models feature helium escape valve, screw-down crown with fluting, screw-down winding-crown with Triplock waterproofness system, and integrated crown guards.

Crystal

The sapphire crystal glass of Ref. 126600 is provisioned with a Cyclops lens window over the date whereas Sea-Dweller Ref. 116600 does not have this element.

Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 116600 — **Sea-Dweller Ref. 116600**

Bezel

Both references feature 120-click unidirectional diving bezel to carry out countdown function up to sixty minutes. It is a vital component of modern diving watches.

Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 116600 has an aluminium bezel insert marked with a triangle with lumed dot at 0/60, large rectangular markers (for 5, 15, 25, 35, 45 & 55 ) and numerals for 10, 20, 30, 40 & 50. It is to be noted that the 0 to 15 scale is highlighted with medium-size minute markers. The remaining minutes (between 15 and 60) are displayed with smaller markers.

The Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600 is equipped with Cerachrom bezel-insert, which is more durable and scratch-proof than the aluminium ones. All graduations on the bezel of Ref. 126600 are displayed in the same pattern of 116600.

Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600 — **Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600**

Dial

The Sea-Dweller 116600 has a black, satin-finished black dial with all texts in white color. The reference 126600 features a glossy black dial with SEA-DWELLER in red and other inscriptions in white. Both models come with Chromalight hands and markers.

Movement

Both models feature Manufacture self-winding movements made by Rolex. The Sea Dweller Ref. 116600 is equipped with the Caliber 3135, which offers a power reserve of 48 hours. The reference 126600 is powered by Calibre 3235. Thanks to the advanced Chronergy escapement, this movement provides a power reserve of 70 hours.

Bracelet

Both references are fitted with Oyster (three links) bracelet made of Oystersteel. This bracelet comes with the innovations like Oysterlock folding safety clasp, Glidelock extension system and Fliplock extension link.

In 2021, Rolex removed the provisioning of the Fliplock extension link from the Sea-Dweller 126600 series. Introduced in 2008 with the Rolex Deepsea model, this mechanism is used for lengthening the bracelets by approximately 26 mm.

The latest production Sea-Dweller Reference 126600-0002 comes without the Fliplock extension link. The newly released Deepsea 136660 is also delivered without this bracelet extension system.

Antiquorum Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Geneva 2022 May 7-8th 2022 – Auction Results

May 20, 2022 MasterHorologer

On May 7th and 8th, at the Beau Rivage hotel Genève, Antiquorum auctioned an impressive selection of 534 lots of Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces, totaling more than 13.5 million in sales (CHF 13,647,687 in total incl. buyer’s premium).

One of the highlights of the weekend was when the Patek Philippe 18K yellow gold pocket watch with a gorgeous “Woman with a water jug” by Verneer enamel by Patek Philippe’s master enameller Suzanne Rohr (LOT 200) achieved CHF 937,0000 incl. buyer’s premium, setting a New World Record.

Patek Philippe 18K yellow gold pocket watch with Verneer enamel dial featuring “Woman with a water jug” — **Patek Philippe 18K yellow gold pocket watch with Verneer enamel dial featuring *“Woman with a water jug”*/Image Credit: Antiquorum**

A Patek Philippe Patented Split Seconds Chronograph Foudroyante pocket watch (LOT 171), of which only two other examples are known to exist, was auctioned for CHF 57,500 incl. buyer’s premium, more than 4 times its low estimate.

Among the other jewels of the auction that are not wristwatches, the exceptional Cartier Petite Sonnerie and Quarter Repeater Enamel Travel Clock (LOT 410) conquered the heart of a connoisseur at CHF 47,500 incl. buyer’s premium, three times its low estimate.

Another top achiever was a gold enameled Pearl Musical Snuff Box with Concealed Watch, circa 1810 (LOT 274). It was sold for an impressive CHF 70,000, more than twice its high estimate.

Out of the top 10 results, four wristwatches were from Audemars Piguet and from the Royal Oak collection: LOT 433, 494, 431, 430 resulting in CHF 1,443,750 incl. buyer’s premium. An Audemars Piguet 25720 Star Wheel with a tropical purple dial in platinum (LOT 140) achieved CHF 80,000 incl. commissions, twice its low estimate.

A Rolex Daytona in Yellow gold ( LOT 511), was auctioned for CHF 212,500 incl. buyer’s premium and a sealed Patek Philippe Nautilus LOT 398 was sold for CHF 200,000 incl. buyer’s premium.

A Rolex Ref. 3479 Zerographe in steel in exceptional condition and with a unique patinated dial (LOT 106), was sold for CHF 67’500 incl. buyer’s premium, while LOT 112, a Rolex Ref. 16800 Submariner Comex was auctioned for CHF 187,500 incl. buyer’s premium.

The historical Omega “MIR station”, a watch that travelled one year in space, made a sensation achieving CHF 312,500, three times its low estimate (LOT 534).

Another outstanding result for an Omega is the very limited LOT 532, Speedmaster Apollo XI, skeletonized in platinum in perfect condition and beautifully decorated, sold for CHF 162,500 incl. buyer’s premium more than five times its low estimate.
Historical pieces such as LOT 209, a rare Longines competition chronometer “Observatory Trials” watch movement was sold for CHF 17,500, over three times its high estimate.

A Patek Philippe dial with pink gold indexes for the Ref. 2526 (LOT 179) was sold for CHF 50,000, more than three times its high estimation.

Credit: https://www.antiquorum.swiss/

Christie’s Geneva Rare Watches Auction 09 May 2022 – Results

May 18, 2022May 18, 2022 MasterHorologer

Christie’s Geneva Rare Watches Auction on 9th May this year achieved a total of CHF 23,840,700 / US$ 24,076,357 / HK$ 188,172,624. It attracted very strong global participation with registrants from 46 countries across 6 continents. Surprisingly, 51% of the new registrants were millennials.

16 world records were broken, with Daytonas remaining the ‘Queens’ of the game. A particular note was the success of the Rolex Daytona Trilogy. The top achiever among them was the Rolex Daytona Ref 6269 ‘Jack of Diamonds’, which achieved a whopping 1.614 million Swiss francs.

Rolex Daytona Ref 6269 'Jack of Diamonds' — **Lot 38: Rolex Daytona Ref 6269 ‘Jack of Diamonds’**

Cartier also showed a very strong desirability, with iconic models like the Crash reaching 819’000 CHF.

Top 15 Lots

(1) Lot 38: Rolex Daytona Ref 6269 ‘Jack of Diamonds’

Estimate: CHF 1,100,000
Achieved: CHF 1.614 million

(2) Lot 129: Rolex Paul Newman Tropical Lemon Daytona Ref. 6264

Estimate: CHF 900,000
Achieved: CHF 1.254 million

(3) Lot 128: Rolex Daytona ref. 6241 ‘Champagne Paul Newman dial’

Estimate: CHF 700,000
Achieved: CHF 1,071,000

(4) Lot 66: Patek Philippe “Cathedral” Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5074R-001, Retailed by Tiffany & Co. Property from the Kairos Collection

Estimate: CHF 330,000
Achieved: CHF 957,600

(5) Lot 133: Cartier London ‘Crash’ 1990

Estimate: CHF 180,000
Achieved: CHF 819,000

(6) Lot 94: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Advanced Research Ref. 5650G-001

Estimate: CHF 150’000
Achieved: CHF 756,000

(7) Lot 110: Patek Philippe Nautilus Platinum Watch with Baguette Diamond-set Bezel and Dial Ref. 5711

Estimate: CHF 500,000
Achieved: CHF 630,000

(8) Lot 24: Rolex Oyster Cosmograph Ref. 6263 Tropical ‘Paul Newman Panda Dial’

Estimate: 400,000
Achieved: CHF 579,600

(9) Lot 65: Patek Philippe Limited Edition 18K Pink Gold Split-Seconds Chronograph with Black Dial, Ref. 5959R-001, Retailed by Tiffany & Co.

Estimate: CHF 140,000 – CHF 230,000
Achieved: CHF 453,600

(10) Lot 151: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin with Platinum Case and Smoked Green Sunburst Dial, Ref. 15202PT

Estimate: CHF 300,000 – CHF 500,000
Achieved: CHF 441,000

(11) Lot 152: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak White Ceramic Perpetual Calendar with Blue dial, Ref. 26579CB

Estimate: CHF 250,000 – CHF 450,000
Achieved: CHF 403,200

(12) Lot 157: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with Stainless Steel Case and Salmon Color Dial, Ref. 25654ST

Estimate: CHF 150,000 – CHF 250,000
Achieved: CHF 340,200

(13) Lot 88: Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases and 24 Hour Indication, Platinum Case and Black Dial, Ref. 5970P-001

Estimate: CHF 140,000 – CHF 230,000
Achieved: CHF 327,600

(14) Lot 149: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Model with 18K White Gold Case and Tropical Diamond set Dial, Ref. 5402BC, Circa 1977

Estimate: CHF 200,000 – CHF 400,000
Achieved: CHF 327,600

(15) Lot 109: Patek Philippe Nautilus, 42mm Stainless Steel Automatic Watch with Date, Moon-Phase and Power Reserve Indications, Ref. 5712/1A-001, Retailed By Tiffany & Co.

Estimate: CHF 120,000 – CHF 250,000
Achieved: CHF 277,200

Luxury Mother’s Day Watch Gift Idea

April 29, 2022July 29, 2022 MasterHorologer

Mothers’ Day is all about honoring the leading lady of your life. It’s the best time to show some appreciation to your mother. Whether you are living with her or live far away, no one can shower you with as much care, love and concern as her!

When it comes to thinking about what to give your mother on mother’s day, the answer remains unanswered. There are a few items that you can give her, but those don’t seem enough!

Even gifts like bags, dresses and jewelry are so common that you might be tired of gifting them away every mothers day.
You can ask your lovely cool mom what she wants, but that will take the charm of surprise away, right?

What to do now?

So, if you are tired of searching for Mother’s day gift ideas over google and still haven’t found anything amazing for her, then it is the time to give your mother a luxury timepiece.

Watches are often the go-to gift for graduation, business partners or as a marriage gift, but let’s change the tradition now!

This May, surprise your cool mom with an OLTO-8 INFINITY II Roman Numerals Skeleton White Case Mechanical Watch, a unique and remarkable mother’s day present.

This mother’s day gift is sophisticated and feminine and displays a class that anyone could ever wish for!

Here is why this watch makes a good mother’s day gift:

● Timeless Gift For Your Cool Mom

Simplicity, elegance and versatility all in one!

It may seem ironic, but a wristwatch is a small luxury item that your mom can keep for years. Giving a wristwatch to your mother symbolizes the most precious time you give her. This watch can be a good investment for luxury gifts as they appreciate over time. This day, make your cool mom feel extra special and get this exceptional gift that will look unique in your mother’s hand while giving her the utmost comfort.

In addition, this watch is not only elegant but also unisex. If you are a proud son of your cool mom, get this unisex watch for your wrist and pair it with your mom!

● Suitable for Independent Women

Though smartphones can tell the time, nothing can beat the classiness of having a dependable wristwatch on your hand. The right choice of timepiece can complete the look of anyone to a whole new level!

So, whether your cool mom is a fan of fashion who likes to wear a watch for everyday looks or she is an independent woman who wears it for physical activities, therefore, and on a business trip, the OLTO-8 INFINITY II can bring her any desired style. This watch is well-suited for every occasion!

With this stunning and super classy watch, your cool mom will not have to worry about matching her jewelry since this watch goes with almost anything!

So why not help your mother put the best look forward with the OLTO wristwatch collection?

● Stunning Design to Add Charm to Your Mom’s Personality

What does your queen deserve on Mother’s Day?

Like many other fashion pieces, a timepiece is a great way of expressing yourself. This mother’s day, tell your mother that you know her by heart by getting her wristwatch. After all, giving her the right fit is a part of a child-mother relationship! If you are still confused, take some time to reflect on her daily routine and activities. For example, find out what active style she carries reflects her personality. This way, you will be sure that the stunning design of this wristwatch is undoubtedly going to reflect your cool mom’s personality!

The reflection of your mom’s beauty can make this watch even more beautiful!

● Convenient and Light Weight- Feels Luxe

For your mom, who appreciates simple and lightweight items, OLTO-8 INFINITY II will be the best cool mother’s day gift for her! Its slim case and versatile outline showcase a calm and confident look. Unboxing this gift will surely make her feel more special. Unlike bags, shoes and jewelry, holding a small piece of luxury will make your mom confident every day! If she is a watch collector, she will know the value of this timepiece!

Wrapping Up

So, this was the best mother’s day gift idea that any loving child will ever want. The best part of giving this subtle watch to your mom on Mother’s Day is that whenever she looks at her timepiece, it will remind her of you, and she will be thankful for raising such a generous child!

Mother’s day is around the corner; get this beautiful and unisex watch for your mom now.

The OLTO-8 INFINITY II watch is now available on the brand’s eBay store with a special Mother’s Day price. To avail this discount offer, please go through the following details:

Coupon code: LOVEMOM508
Discount time: 4/29-5/10
Original price: $659
Finial price: $461.3
Buy link: https://www.ebay.com/str/greenymoony/OLTO-8/_i.html?store_cat=39610319011&_sop=10&mkevt=1&mkcid=2&mkrid=7111650504278064&keyword=US_facebook_O8AWIF21S00_MOMDAY_OLTO-8+INFINITY+Mens+Watches+Mechanical

OLTO-8 is a young and promising watch company founded in 2020. Its timepieces are inspired by industrial works. The motto of OLTO-8 is : “Your Time is Unique, therefore, we design unique watches.”

MB&F x BULGARI – LM Flying T Allegra

March 10, 2022June 27, 2022 MasterHorologer

In 2021, MB&F released a special edition diamond-set LM Flying T watch in collaboration with BULGARI.

The MB&F x BULGARI – LM Flying T Allegra watch is a meeting point of high-end watchmaking and time-honored high-jewellery traditions.

Introduced in 2019, LM Flying T is the first MB&F machine dedicated to women. This groundbreaking three-dimensional horological art piece has been known for its revolutionary architecture, construction and opulent adornment.

The newly released LM Flying T Allegra is available in limited editions of 20 pieces in 18K white gold and 20 pieces in 18K red gold diamond-set cases.

In these high-jewellery editions, the prestigious Roman Jeweller has carefully placed tourmaline, tsavorite, diamonds, rubellite, amethyst, tanzanite and topaz, in an exceptional composition forming a full circle around the movement.

The dial is entirely paved with snow-set diamonds. Equipped with a magnificent flying tourbillon movement, Legacy Machine FlyingT has a power reserve of four days (100 hours), which is among the highest within MB&F.

Technical details

Model: MB&F x BULGARI – LM Flying T Allegra

Edition
20 pieces in 18K white gold and 20 pieces in 18K red gold diamond-set cases, with fully diamond-set dial plates, adorned with fine gemstones.

Engine
MB&F FlyingT movement featuring three-dimensional vertical architecture, automatic winding, conceived and developed in-house.
Central flying 60-second tourbillon.
Power reserve: 100 hours.
Balance frequency: 18,000bph / 2.5Hz.
Three-dimensional sun winding rotor in 18K 5N+ red gold, titanium and platinum.
Number of components: 280.
Number of jewels: 30.

Functions/indications
Hours and minutes displayed on a 50° vertically tilted dial with two serpentine hands.
Two crowns: winding on left and time-setting on right.

Case
Material: 18K white or red gold, set with diamonds.
High domed sapphire crystal on top with anti-reflective coating on both sides, sapphire crystal on back.
Dimensions: 39 x 20mm.
Number of components: 17.
Water resistance: 3ATM/ 30m / 90’.

Stones

For the white gold version:
• Brilliant-cut diamonds on the dial and crowns: ~ 0.24ct
• Brilliant-cut diamonds on the case and buckle: ~ 2.80cts
•3 tsavorites square, pear and round: ~ 1.33cts
•1 oval topaz: ~ 0.71ct
•1 oval amethyst: ~ 0.4ct
•1 round tanzanite: ~ 0.43ct
•1 round tourmaline: ~ 0.06ct

For the rose gold version:
•Brilliant-cut diamonds on the dial and crowns: ~ 0.24ct
•Brilliant-cut diamonds on the case and buckle: ~ 2.80cts
•2 tsavorite square and round: ~ 0.38ct
•2 tourmaline oval and round: ~ 0.64ct
•1 oval tanzanite: ~ 0.47ct
•1 pear amethyst: ~ 0.70ct
•1 round rubellite: ~ 0.39ct

Strap & buckle
Alligator leather strap with white or rose gold pin buckle matching the case.

MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO – UAE Golden Jubilee Limited Edition

February 23, 2022 MasterHorologer

This special edition MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO model was created to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the establishment of the United Arab Emirates.

UAE was formed on 02 December 1971. In December 2021, the region’s leading luxury watch and jewellery retailer, Ahmed Seddiqi& Sons marked the ‘Year of the 50th’ by announcing over 35 limited-edition timepieces. For this project, MB&F created LM Split Escapement EVO – UAE Golden Jubilee Limited Edition of 10 pieces.

The LM Split Escapement watch was created in collaboration with Irish master watchmaker Stephen McDonnell in 2017. This timepiece stands out with the world’s longest balance staff that would traverse the whole movement. This innovative design leaves the large balance wheel on the front of the watch and concealing the remaining parts of the escapement – anchor and escape wheel – on the opposite side of the movement.

The limited edition MB&F LM SE EVO UAE Golden Jubilee watch comes with some design enhancements. Firstly, the whole mechanism has been rotated clockwise by 30 degrees, with the crown at 4:30 instead of 2 o’clock. This completely changes the symmetry of the watch, giving it a totally new character.

Second, this special edition receives the new EVO case, offering enhanced comfort and robustness – and which until now has only ever been used in the LM Perpetual EVO series.

The EVO case design features a no-bezel construction, with the domed sapphire crystal fused directly to the titanium case, integrated lugs and strap. It has a water-resistance of 80 metres thanks to a screw-down crown. The movement is suspended on the innovative “FlexRing” system, a specially developed monobloc shock-absorbing mechanism that works against both vertical and horizontal shocks.

Finally, for the very first time in MB&F history, the dial plate comes in a rich salmon colour, while two of the dark grey sub-dials – for the date and power reserve indicator – have been opened up. Movement-side, the special darkened treatment creates heightened contrast between the wheels, the rhodium-plated barrels and the rose gold details.

The manual-winding, 298-component movement uses the same base as the LM Perpetual with double barrels, a 72-hour power reserve, and a date-changing security system that prevents the user from inadvertently damaging the movement when adjusting the date.

Technical details

Model: LM SE EVO UAE Golden Jubilee Limited Edition

Edition
Limited edition of 10 pieces in grade 5 titanium with salmon baseplate and dark grey dials

Engine
Movement developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell
Split escapement with the balance wheel suspended above the dial and the anchor under the movement
Manual winding with double mainspring barrels
Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement
Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th-century style; bevelled internal angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings
FlexRing: an annular dampener fitted between case and movement, providing shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes.
Galvanic dark grey dials with both SLN numerals and hands
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 2.5Hz / 18,000bph
Number of components: 298
Number of jewels: 35

Functions & indications
Hours, minutes, date and power-reserve indicators
Push-button next to the date dial for quick adjustment of the date

Case
Material: grade 5 titanium
Dimensions: 44mm x 17.5mm
Number of components: 52
Screw down crown
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces
Water resistance: 80m / 270′ / 8ATM

Strap
Rubber strap with titanium folding buckle

SEIKO SRPH41K1 Thong Sia Exclusive Samurai Black Limited Edition

December 26, 2021August 16, 2022 MasterHorologer

Launched on 16 December 2021, the SEIKO SRPH41K1 is a limited edition Prospex dive watch created for Thong Sia, the official distributor of Seiko in Singapore, Hong Kong, Macau, Malaysia and Brunei.

Fusing incredible craftsmanship and timeless aesthetics, the Seiko Prospex Thong Sia exclusive “Samurai Black” watch pays tribute to SEIKO’s homeland. Limited to 1,400 pieces, this timepiece features a hardened stainless-steel case measuring 45mm diameter. Mounted with a black ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel, it combines ruggedness, practicality and precision.

The movement beating inside the Seiko Samurai Black is the automatic 4R36 calibre. Displaying the day-date function at 3 o’clock, it has a power reserve of 41 hours.

The SEIKO Samurai Black timepiece (reference SRPH41K1) is exclusively available in Thong Sia distribution districts (Singapore, Hong Kong, Macau, Malaysia, and Brunei).

Technical details

Model: Seiko Prospex Thong Sia Exclusive “Samurai Black”
Reference SRPH41K1

Movement
Seiko 4R36 Automatic Calibre
Driving system: Automatic with manual winding mechanism
Power reserve: Approximately 41 hours
Vibrations: 21,600 vibrations per hour
Number of jewels: 24 jewels

Functions
Hour, minutes and seconds
Date and day

Case
Hardened steel case
Case diameter: 45mm
Unidirectional rotating bezel
Ceramic Bezel insert
Dual-domed sapphire crystal glass
Screw-down crown
Screw case back
Water resistance: 200m

Strap
Silicone

Edition
Limited edition of 1,400 pieces

Suggested Retail Price
S$838.90 (Singapore dollars)

Other features
Free Prospex camping light with each timepiece

Porsche Design Sport Chrono 39mm

December 21, 2021 MasterHorologer

Porsche Design expands its Sport Chrono collection with new 39mm watches.

In 2020, Porsche Design launched the Sport Chrono Collection, a new collection inspired by the instrument cluster of the Porsche Design Sport Chrono package. It combines classic design features, materials and performance characteristics of Porsche sports cars and transfers them directly into a wristwatch. While the first generation of the Sport Chrono Collection debuted in a 42- millimeter titanium case, the new models feature a diameter of 39 millimeters – a first for Porsche Design.

When the legendary Porsche 911 was first launched in 1963, the dashboard instruments included an electric timepiece as part of the 5-tube instruments. In the early 2000s, Porsche added an additional central instrument that was placed prominently in the middle. Initially displaying lap times, it was continuously refined to provide additional control functions for various engine and chassis components as well as the exhaust system. As part of this “Sport Chrono Package,” it was not a classic three-hand clock on the dashboard, but rather an instrument with a digital display and a single hand.

In 2020, the Sport Chrono package was expanded to include an exclusive chronograph from Porsche Design, the Porsche Design Subsecond clock. Offered in manufacture assembly, featuring a high- end metal dial with radial cut, ceramic indices with Superluminova coating and metal hands, the analog chronograph creates sporty and elegant accents in the cockpit. The specially developed incident-light technology ensures optimum readability inside the car – from every angle, at all times. The Porsche Design Sport Chrono package is currently available in the Porsche Panamera and Taycan models.

For the first time, Porsche Design has chosen a case diameter of less than 40 millimeters, which lends the models an even more elegant aesthetic and appeals to watch lovers with smaller wrists. The Sport Chrono Subsecond models with running seconds at 6 o’clock are powered by the Porsche Design caliber WERK 03.200 with COSC certification.

The automatic movement is equipped with the Porsche Design Icon rotor, which guarantees powerful winding. The timepieces are available with a black, blue or brown dial and color-coordinated leather straps made of genuine Porsche car leather.

Additional features of characteristic Porsche Design are the seven-fold anti-reflective sapphire crystal with hard coating, the high-quality leather strap made of genuine Porsche leather and the titanium folding clasp with safety pushers.

The lineup of the new Porsche Design 39 millimeter Sport Chrono wristwatch collection is available at a starting price of 4,450.00 euro (RRP).

Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro Collection

September 4, 2021May 7, 2022 MasterHorologer

Introduced in 2005 and designed after a pressure gauge, Manometro is the debut watch model of Giuliano Mazzuoli. Presently, it has grown into a flagship collection of the Florence based brand. This emblematic range combines the best Swiss technology with Italian design.

The signature features of the Manometro series are: cylindrical case, simple design, easy to read dial inspired by pressure gauges, leather strap inserted directly into the case with ergonometric support inserts and the massive crown at 2 o’ clock.

Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro watch with polished stainless steel case and ivory dial

The notable models of this series are Manometro Steel, Manometro Chronograph, Manometro Bronze, Manometro Italia and Manometro Compressed. All these timepieces are designed in Italy by Giuliano Mazzuoli and produced in Switzerland.

Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro watch with polished stainless steel case and red dial

The Manometro Solo Tempo (time-only) watches are equipped with the Swiss made ETA 2824/2 automatic movement while the chronograph model is driven by a Swiss made Dubois-Dépraz 2030 Luxe automatic movement.

Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro watch with polished stainless steel case and white dial

Manometro stainless steel watches are available with brushed or polished case. There is also a version with a natural brushed bronze case. The Italian edition features a colourful cylindrical case in steel and epoxy resin in the colors of the Italian flag.

Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro watch with brushed bronze case and green dial

Both chronograph and time-only models have the same case dimensions: 45mm diameter and 14mm thickness. Available in 316L stainless steel and bronze versions, the Manometro Compressed watch measures 45mm diameter and 10mm thickness.

Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro Compressed watch with bronze case and black dial

All Manometro watches boast a massive crown at 2 o’ clock, with 12 grooves for better grip. The chronograph version features two pushers at 8H and 10H, in addition to the emblematic crown at 2H.

Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro chronograph with ivory dial

Manometro Solo Tempo watches are available with black, ivory, blue, green, white or red dials. The Italia version comes with black or white dial while Manometro chronograph has black or ivory dial.

Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro Compressed watch with polished stainless steel case and blue dial

Water resistant to 50 meters, each Manometro timepiece is fitted with a convex sapphire crystal glass. Made in Tuscany, the calf-skin leather strap has a stainless steel buckle with the Mazzuoli logo inscribed on it. Each wristwatch comes meticulously packaged in a hand-made, high-quality Florentine leather box with a sewn rope embroidering.

Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro Compressed watch with polished stainless steel case and green dial

Giuliano Mazzuoli watches are available in the finest retailers in the world. The retail price of Manometro ‘time only’ watch is 2,500 Euros. The chronograph version has a selling price of 4,600 Euros.

Technical details

Models: Manometro, Manometro Bronze, Manometro Italia and Manometro Compressed

Movement
Mechanical automatic movement in caliber ETA 2824/2 with shockproof system
Incabloc and Côtes de Genève decoration

Functions
Hours, minutes, and seconds

Case
Cylindrical polished or brushed stainless steel (inox AISI 316/L) or natural bronze brushed case with a straight-angled base with 8 screws holding the steel watch back to the watch and a curved lunette
Italia version: Cylindrical case in steel and epoxy resin in the colors of the Italian flag
Diameter: 45mm
Thickness: 14 mm case height (10mm in case of Manometro Compressed)
Water resistance: 5 atmospheres (ATM); 50 meters; 164feet
Crystal: Convex sapphire crystal; anti-reflective
Crown: A stainless steel, large dimension screw-in crown with 12 grooves is positioned at 2 o’clock and the Mazzuoli logo is engraved at the top.

Dial
Black, ivory, blue, green, white or red colored dial
Italia version: Black or white colored dial

Strap
Handcrafted calf-skin Florentine leather strap inserted directly into the case with ergonometric support inserts and a steel buckle.

Price
2,500 Euros

Model: Manometro Chronograph

Movement
Swiss made mechanical movement with automatic winding, Dubois-Dépraz 2030 Luxe
49 jewels
28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz)
Central rotor
Bi-directional automatic winding
Incabloc shock protection
42-hour power reserve

Functions
Hour and minutes
Centre chronograph seconds hand
30 minutes counter at 2 o’clock
Small seconds sub-dial at 8 o’clock

Case
Cylindrical polished or brushed stainless steel (inox AISI 316/L) case with a straight-angled base with 8 screws holding the watch back to the watch and a curved lunette.
45 mm case diameter
14 mm case height
Two cylindrical chronograph pushers in with Giuliano Mazzuoli’s logo Patented system for preventing dust and water intrusion
Screw-in Crown at 2 o’clock
Start-Stop pusher at 8 o’clock
Reset pusher at 10 o’clock
Crystal: Convex sapphire crystal; anti-reflective
Water resistance: 5 ATM/ 50 meters/164 feet

Dial
Black or ivory colored dial
Black baton-shaped hour and minute hands with luminescent coating
Red centre chronograph seconds hand
Silvered sub-dials for small seconds and chronograph 30 minutes

Strap
Handcrafted in Tuscany in natural calf-skin Florentine leather inserted directly into the case with ergonometric support inserts and an ardillon steel buckle

Price
4,600 Euros

Jämes C. Pellaton Royal Marine Chronometer Skeleton

July 26, 2021 MasterHorologer1 Comment

Crafted by Manufacture horlogère Jämes C. Pellaton SA in Le Locle, this red gold wristwatch incorporates a manual-winding skeleton movement endowed with a high-end tourbillon complication. This single unique piece is a result of two years of work, which also includes rare and intricate artistic techniques like skeletonising, chamfering, engraving and hand-finishing.

The mechanical engine that powers this timepiece is Calibre JCP 1898 MD. Manually wound, this exclusive Jämes C. Pellaton movement has an impressive power reserve of 72 hours. This intricate mechanical calibre is made of 285 parts. The one minute tourbillon is positioned at 6 o’ clock along with the small seconds display.

The Royal Marine Chronometer Skeleton displays hour and minutes with two central hands. A centrally placed pointer hand displays date along with a retrograde scale. This swiss made mechanical watch also features a power reserve indicator at 9 o’ clock. All the hands indicating the above functions are made of gold and blued.

Technical details

Model: Jämes C. Pellaton Royal Marine Chronometer Skeleton

Movement
Calibre JCP 1898 MD
Manual winding skeleton movement with tourbillon
Diameter: 36.60 mm
Height: 9.70 mm
285 parts
27 jewels
Power reserve: 72 minimum hours
One barrel with a reverse pawl
Balance: With variable inertia screw
Escapement: Swiss lever
Frequency: 21600 Alt/h
Balance spring: Breguet
Bottom plates: Wet blasting nickel silver, hand bevelled
Bridges: Wet blasting nickel silver, hand bevelled
Gear train: Dentures NIHS, bevelling above and below
Tourbillon: One rotation per minute displayed at 6

Functions
• Hours, minutes and date
• Small second at 6
• Power reserve
• Retrograde date scale beginning at 8 (1) ending at 2 (31)

Case
Red or white gold
Domed sapphire crystal
Transparent background relief engravings, domed sapphire crystal
Diameter: 44. 00 mm
Height: 14. 85 mm
Water resistance: 5 atm – 50 m
Crown: With black enameled JCP logo

Dial
Sapphire
Hands: In blued gold, hand bevelled

Strap
Black or brown alligator, hand stitched, gold clasp engraved Jämes C. Pellaton

Box
Wood, leather

Jämes C. Pellaton Pocket Skeleton Chronometer Tourbillon

July 26, 2021 MasterHorologer

This unique and exceptional pocket watch made by Le Locle based Manufacture horlogère Jämes C. Pellaton SA seamlessly blends the art of open-working with a complex tourbillon complication.

The watch in 65mm diameter red gold case houses the Calibre JCP 1895 MD manual-winding movement that incorporates a one minute tourbillon at 6’ o clock and a power reserve indicator at 9 o’ clock. This Swiss made pocket skeleton chronometer tourbillon watch has a power reserve of seven days.

This Jämes C. Pellaton pocket watch with open-worked dial has four blued-gold hands, respectively for hour, minute, power reserve and small seconds. It took approximately two years to manufacture this one-of-a-kind mechanical timepiece.

Technical details

Movement
Calibre JCP 1895 MD
Manual winding movement
Diameter: 53 mm
Height: 13, 35 mm
294 parts
29 jewels
Power reserve: 7 days
Double barrel in parallel with coincident gears stopping system
Balance: With variable inertia screw
Escapement: Swiss lever
Frequency: 21,600 Alt/h
Balance spring: Flat double balance spring in opposition
Bottom plates: Wet blasting nickel silver, hand bevelled
Bridges: Extra features drawn nickel silver
Gear train: Dentures NIHS, bevelling above and below
Tourbillon: One rotation per minute displayed at 6

Indications
• Hours and minutes in the center
• Small second at 6
• Power reserve

Case
Red gold
Diameter: 65. 00 mm
Height: 17 mm
Anti reflective sapphire crystal
Transparent background relief engravings, domed sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 atm – 50 m
Crown with black enameled JCP logo

Dial
54 mm, sapphire
Hands: In blued gold, hand bevelled

Box
Wood, leather, gold plated brass 5 microns

Xeric Atlasphere Automatic

July 18, 2021 MasterHorologer

This automatic wristwatch from Xerix pays tribute to the 18th century globe manufactures who used to showcase celestial maps on glass spheres surrounding the earth. Made of stainless steel, this timepiece is available in various color themes like Green, Blue, Red, Yellow Gold, Rose Gold and Gun Metal. Each of these variants is limited to 500 pieces.

Its dial side take cues from the antique glass globes. On to the front sapphire glass, longitude and latitude lines as well as the minutes are carefully electroplated. The domed planet at the center of the fume dial adds a 3D effect. Outer space surrounds the globe and allows the floating minutes to be concealed until the orbiting moon reveals the time. Its luminescent hands ensure great legibility during low light conditions.

Dressed in a 40mm diameter case, the Xeric Atlasphere Automatic watch is equipped with the Miyota 82S0 self winding mechanical movement. Its customized oscillating weight can be admired through the transparent case back. This 21-jewel movement has a power reserve up to 40 hours.

The watch comes with an American Horween leather strap, which features a quick release system for fast and easy tool-free strap changes.

The Atlasphere Automatic watch has a retail price of US$ 499/-. Please visit Xeric online store for more details about this timepiece.

Technical details

Model: Atlasphere Automatic

Case
316L Stainless Steel
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 12.5mm
Crystal: Sapphire Glass
Water Resistance: 5 ATM

Movement
Miyota 82S0 self-winding mechanical movement
Number of jewels: 21 Jewels
Frequency: 21600 BPH
Power reserve: 42 Hours
Made in Japan
Rotor: custom built globe-shaped

Functions
Hours, Revealing Minutes, Central Seconds

Strap
American Full-grain Leather from Horween with Built-in Quick Release Springbar System, 20 mm wide

Availability
Limited and individually numbered 500 pieces per variant

[Please visit Xeric online store to purchase this timepiece]

Note: This article contains promotions.

TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph

February 5, 2021December 31, 2021 MasterHorologer1 Comment

The Swiss luxury watchmaker TAG Heuer and the German sportscar manufacturer Porsche have announced their new partnership: an authentic alliance between two brands whose common DNA in motorsports and racing forges a holistic and long-term collaboration ranging from competition to product development. A new watch, the TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph, is unveiled as first celebration of the iconic brands.

TAG Heuer and Porsche have a number of things in common, from their rich histories and reputations for innovation to cutting-edge technologies, powerful and independent mindset, and a knack for excellence in design. Both companies were founded by self-taught entrepreneurs. Edouard Heuer and Ferdinand Porsche were visionaries whose creations changed their chosen fields forever.

Heuer was responsible for the first manufactured chronograph and Porsche invented an electric wheel hub motor. Both these accomplishments earned medals at World’s Fairs held in Paris 11 years apart. Heuer was honoured in 1889 and Porsche presented the first Lohner-Porsche Electromobile with this innovation at the Expo in Paris in 1900.

The true cornerstones of the new partnership, however, are descendants of the brands’ founding fathers. Ferdinand Porsche’s son, Ferdinand Anton Ernst or “Ferry”, joined his father’s engineering office in 1931 at the age of 22 and founded the car brand that bears the family name in 1948. Within a few years, the Porsche name would be associated with race track success all around the world – including a class win in the Carrera Panamericana race of 1954. In honour of its successful participation, Porsche calls its most powerful engine ‘Carrera’.

Edouard Heuer’s great-grandson Jack led his family’s company for decades. In 1963, he created the first Heuer Carrera chronograph, designed to let drivers tell the time at a glance in the heat of action. This ground-breaking timepiece and Porsche’s most powerful Carrera engine united Porsche and Heuer – for the first time – in the spirit of the ‘Carrera’ (or ‘race’), which embodied ambition, speed and technical excellence.

Jack Heuer was also responsible for the Heuer Monaco, the first square-faced, water-resistant automatic chronograph watch. Its name evoked the Monaco Grand Prix as well as the Principality’s renowned Monte Carlo Rally, which Porsche won in three consecutive years, from 1968 to 1970, with its signature 911 model. Just as the Porsche 911 had done for automobiles, the Heuer Monaco – with its distinctive case, its blue metallic dial, its red seconds hand and the crown positioned on the left side of the case – broke with the familiar design codes of traditional watchmaking.

Carrera: an icon of a name that has been associated with TAG Heuer and Porsche for generations – so it was a natural choice for the first creative product collaboration. A tribute to the heritage of two legendary brands, both on and off the racetrack, the new chronograph offers a first glimpse at what they can achieve together.

The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph is an exquisite example of coordination, cooperation and collaboration. Based on TAG Heuer’s Carrera Sport Chronograph design, with its distinctive tachymeter scale engraved on the bezel, it introduces a number of features inspired by Porsche’s design essence. A compelling union of two icons of performance, quality, and innovation, this chronograph is a seamless blend of the Porsche and TAG Heuer universes, reflecting the excellence of both names without diluting the essence of either.

Porsche’s engraved inscription is visible on the bezel and the unmistakable font is also used for the indexes. The Porsche colours of red, black, and grey – which also recall historic Heuer models – are incorporated throughout the watch, and on clear display through the transparent crystal case back is the oscillating mass, which has been redesigned in affectionate tribute to Porsche’s celebrated steering wheel.

It is printed with “Porsche” and “TAG Heuer”. The dial’s asphalt effect, created especially for this watch, perfectly expresses a passion for the road, while Arabic numerals suggest the numbers on the dashboard of fine Porsche sportscars.

The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph is presented either on a soft strap in luxurious calf leather and innovative stitching that echoes the Porsche interior or on an interlocking bracelet reflecting streamlined racing design.

At the heart of this stunning timepiece is the in-house Calibre Heuer 02 manufacture movement with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. The chronograph mechanism’s vertical clutch and column wheel demonstrate the brands’ unflinching demand for absolute precision.

Finally, the TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph is a Special Edition watch and is delivered in bespoke packaging with colours and a style consistent with the remarkable watch inside. The black watch box features the logos of TAG Heuer and Porsche in white. Inside the box is a perfectly-sized black travel pouch with an unmistakably Porsche red interior.

Technical details

Model: TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph Special Edition 44 mm Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic
Reference: CBN2A1F.FC6492

Movement
Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic

Case
44 mm diameter
Steel polished, fine brushed case
Ceramic black tachymeter fixed bezel; Porsche inscription
Domed, beveled sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment
Steel crown at 3 o’clock with red
Steel screw-down sapphire case back with special engraving
Water resistance: 100 meters

Dial
Grey asphalt dial
3 counters:
— 3 o’clock: black “azurage” minute chronograph counter; rhodium plated polished hand red tip
— 6 o’clock: black “azurage” second chronograph counter; rhodium plated polished hand
— 9 o’clock: black “azurage” hour chronograph counter; rhodium plated polished hand red tip
Black gold plated applied indexes with white Super-LumiNova®
Rhodium plated hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova®
Rhodium plated central hand red tip
TAG Heuer applied logo
6 o’clock date
CARRERA HEUER 02 80 HOURS

Strap
Embossed black calf leather strap with hand stitching; calf skin black lining
Steel folding clasp with double safety push-buttons

Available from
February 2021

Model: TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph Special Edition 44 mm Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic
Reference: CBN2A1F.BA0643

Movement
Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic

Strap
Steel H-shape bracelet
Steel folding clasp with double safety push-buttons

Available from
February 2021

Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series

September 3, 2020 MasterHorologer

Inspired by some of the beautiful Japanese decorative patterns, Seiko has created a new series of watches within its Presage collection. Featuring textured dials highlighted with Japanese Asanoha or hemp leaf pattern, these new timepieces proudly carry a powerful and fresh expression of Japanese artistry.

These timepieces feature traditional, high quality round cases made from stainless steel. On closer inspection, you will discover the real beauty of the watch thanks to its sharply angled case structure and the delicate design of the textured dial.

The case and bracelet of these watches incorporate a unique design featuring many precise and polished flat surfaces. The sharpness of this design allows the watch to shine and sparkle from every angle. Three of the four watches in the new series have a super-hard coating that protects the case and bracelet from scratches and also endows it with a long-lasting brilliance.

The dial incorporates a Japanese Asanoha or hemp leaf pattern, familiar in Japanese culture for its use in design since the Heian period over a thousand years ago. The rich texture and intricacy of the dial’s sharply edged geometric pattern create a subtle color gradation as they play with the light at different angles.

The series comprises four new watches, each offering a dial with a different traditional Japanese color; Shironeri, an unbleached silky white, Aitetsu, or indigo iron, Tokiwa, the color of evergreen trees and Susutake, a brown-toned smoked bamboo. The watches are all powered by the 24 jewel Caliber 6R35 which delivers a power reserve of 70 hours. The glass material is sapphire crystal, and the exhibition case back, also in sapphire, reveals the delicate finishing of the movement.

All four watches from the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series are available from September 2020 at Seiko Boutiques and selected retail stores worldwide.

Technical details

Model: Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series

References
SPB165: Shironeri
SPB167: Aitetsu
SPB169: Tokiwa
SPB170: Susutake

Movement
Caliber 6R35
Vibrations: 21,600 vibrations per hour (6 beats per second)
Power reserve: 70 hours
Number of jewels: 24

Case
Stainless steel case and bracelet with super-hard coating (SPB165, 167, 169)
Stainless steel case with rose gold color plating (SPB170)
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
See-through screw case back
Diameter: 39.3mm, Thickness: 11.1mm
Water resistance: 10 bar
Magnetic Resistance: 4,800 A/m

Bracelet/strap
Stainless Steel bracelet with three-fold clasp with push button release (SPB165, 167, 169)
Horse strap with three-fold clasp with push button release (SPB170)

Price
Approximate recommended retail price in Europe: €990

Longines Spirit Collection

June 22, 2020 MasterHorologer

The Longines spirit collection pays tribute to numerous explorers and aviators who conquered the air, land and sea relying on their Longines time instruments. The iconic Swiss watch brand has equipped a host of adventurers with their precision tool watches. Amelia Earhart, Paul-Emile Victor, Elinor Smith and Howard Hughes are foremost among those who benefitted from its expertise as they conquered air, land and sea.

The Longines Spirit collection brings this rich heritage back to life. Linking history with innovation, the new models take traditional features from pilot’s watches and combine them with contemporary lines and codes.

The over-sized crown, the flange, the pronounced step around the crystal, the font of the dial, the diamond shaped indexes and the large luminous baton hands are all elements drawn from the days of pioneering aviation. Reworked and updated, these elements blend harmoniously with the overall contemporary design. In addition, great care has been taken with the various finishes on the details, whether brushed, matt, polished or in relief.

To equip these timepieces, Longines has chosen state-of-the-art self-winding movements (L888.4 & L688.4) featuring silicon hairsprings to guarantee extreme accuracy and increased life period. The calibers are chronometer certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing institute (COSC).

Powering the three-hand with date models the caliber L888.4 is based on the self winding ETA A31.L11 movement. This 21 jewels automatic movement has a power reserve of 64 hours. It drives hour, minute & central second hands and date at 3h.

The chronograph model is equipped with the caliber L688.4 based on the ETA A08.L01 self-winding column wheel chronograph movement. It has a power reserve of 60 hours. This 27 jewels movement powers hours, minutes, small seconds, date and chronograph functions.

The Longines spirit timepieces are fitted with domed sapphire crystal glass with multi-layered anti-reflective coating on both sides. They also feature screw-in crown and engraved case back secured with six screws.

Available in three-hand/calendar models (40mm and 42mm) and a chronograph (42mm), the Longines spirit comes with a matt black, grained silver or sunray blue dial, all stamped with five applied stars. In the Longines tradition, this has always signified an improvement of the quality and reliability of the brand’s movement. Five stars is the maximum number that can be achieved.

The Longines spirit watch models are fitted with steel bracelet, or a leather strap in dark brown, light brown or blue. The three hand/calendar watch is also available in a Prestige edition with three interchangeable straps (steel, leather and NATO in brown leather).

Technical details

Model: Longines spirit collection

Reference numbers

Three hands with date

L3.810.4.53.0-3/6/9
L3.810.4.73.2-4/6/9
L3.810.4.93.0-3/6/9

L3.811.4.53.0-3/6/9
L3.811.4.73.2-4/6/9
L3.811.4.93.0-3/6/9

Chronograph

L3.820.4.53.0-3/6
L3.820.4.73.2-4/6
L3.820.4.93.0-3/6

Movements

Three hands with date (L3.810 & L3.811)

Calibre L888.4 (ETA A31.L11)
Mechanical self-winding movement with silicon balance spring, COSC certified
11 ½ lines, 21 jewels, 25,200 vph
Power reserve: 64 hours

Chronograph (L3.820)

Caliber L688.4 (ETA A08.L01)
Mechanical self-winding movement with silicon balance spring, COSC certified, column wheel chronograph
13 ¼ lines
Number of jewels: 27 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 60 hours

Functions

Three hands with date models
Hours, minutes, seconds and date aperture at 3h

Chronograph models
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9h
Date aperture at 4:30h
Chronograph: central 60 seconds hand, 30-minutes counter at 3h and 12 hour counter at 6h

Case

Round case
Material: stainless steel
Diameter: 40mm or 42mm
Sapphire domed glass with multilayered anti-reflective coating on both sides
Screw in crown
Stainless case-back with 6 screws
Water resistance: 10 atm/100 meters

Dials

Matt black, applied Arabic numerals, Super-LumiNova
Grained silver, applied Arabic numerals, Super-LumiNova
Sunray blue, applied Arabic numerals, Super-LumiNova

Hands
Silvered sand blasted, Super-LumiNova
Black sandblasted, Super-LumiNova

Bracelet/straps

Standard version
Dark brown, light brow of blue leather strap with buckle
Stainless steel bracelet, triple safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism

Prestige edition
3 bracelet/straps with interchangeable system
– Stainless steel bracelet, double safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism
– Dark brown, light brown or blue leather strap with buckle
– NATO strap with buckle

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo: The Geneva Watch Auction XI, On 27&28 June 2020 at Hôtel La Réserve, Geneva

May 20, 2020 MasterHorologer

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo announced the date of their upcoming Geneva watch auction. Taking place at Hôtel La Réserve, Geneva on June 27 and 28, 2020, the sale will feature over 200 lots.

The major highlights of this auction include a Patek Philippe pocket watch reference 605 HU from 1950 and four extraordinary Patek Philippe wristwatches from the private collection of Mr. Jean-Claude Biver, the Non-Executive President of LVMH Group Watch Division.

The Geneva Watch Auction XI is this year’s first live watch auction from Phillips. The auction will offer an incredible selection of fine collectible timepieces hailing from the prestigious Maisons like Patek Philippe and Rolex, as well as from master independent watchmakers such as F.P. Journe or Kari Voutilainen.

Patek Philippe Pocket Watch, Reference 605 HU in Pink Gold, circa 1950

**Patek Philippe, Reference 605 HU from 1950 in pink gold, Estimate: CHF 250,000-500,000 (Image courtesy: Phillips)**

One of Patek Philippe’s signature complications, this pocket watch Reference 605 HU from 1950 features a cloisonné enamel dial representing Eurasia and Africa. Previously unknown to the collecting community and appearing for the first time publicly, this watch is the only one known in pink gold featuring this type of dial. It is being offered by the family of the original owner.

Lots from Mr. Jean-Claude Biver’s Private Collection

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo also presents following four Patek Philippe wristwatches from the Private Collection of Industry Veteran Jean-Claude Biver.

**Jean-Claude Biver Patek Philippe Collection 1518, 2499, 1579 and 96HU (Image courtesy: Phillips)**

1. Patek Philippe Ref 96HU worldtime, circa 1937

Patek Philippe presented its first world time wristwatch created in series in 1939 under reference 1415, but it had created a few pre-series and prototype versions the years prior.

The present reference 96 is in fact one of these ultra-rare pre-series prototypes of which only two are known, made in 1937 to most probably test the market, making it not only a historically significant timepiece but also one of the rarest world time models ever made by Patek Philippe. Unknown to the market, it first appeared in 2011 when it was purchased by Mr. Biver. The other example is in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. Estimate CHF 300,000 – 600,000

2. Patek Philippe Reference 1518 in pink gold, circa 1948

A monumental model, reference 1518 was the first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch ever produced in series when it was introduced in 1941. According to research, only 281 examples were manufactured until the reference ceased production with a majority made in yellow gold. Pink gold reference 1518s were most often fitted with a silvered dial.

It was only on very rare occasions that they were fitted with pink dials. Only 13 examples of reference 1518 are known with a pink dial, making it one of the most exclusive complicated Patek Philippe wristwatches for a collector to acquire. The present watch appears on the market only for the second time, Mr Biver being the second owner since new. Estimate CHF 1,200,000 – 2,400,000

3. Patek Philippe Reference 2499 second series, circa 1957

Launched in 1951, the reference 2499 was the direct successor of the reference 1518 and came with more sporty round pushers and a larger 37.5mm case. The second series like the present watch, was offered either with Arabic numerals or applied batons as well as with a tachymeter scale.

The second series reference 2499 is so rare that very few examples have graced the international auction market, and in fact only 20 examples in yellow gold with applied batons, like the present example, are known. Estimate CHF 1,000,000 – 2,000,000

4. Patek Philippe Platinum Reference 1579, circa 1946

This incredibly attractive and well-preserved reference 1579 is one of only three vintage Patek Philippe chronographs cased in platinum. It is unknown why Patek Philippe decided to use platinum for this reference and only for three watches, but it is interesting to note that the three watches have consecutive serial numbers and different dials, making each piece unique.

The present watch is the last of the three made and differentiates itself from the other two with its scale and markers in blue, giving the watch an incredibly vivid modernist appeal. Estimate CHF 800,000 – 1,600,000.

Other Important Timepieces

Patek Philippe

A highlight of this sale is a well-preserved Patek Philippe reference 1579 chronograph in yellow gold made in 1955. This timepiece was retailed by famed Swiss retailer Gübelin. It is only the 5th example signed by Gübelin to grace the market.

Another attraction is a Patek Philippe reference 1518 in yellow gold from the family of the original owner from 1944. This reference was launched in 1941 and was the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph made in series.

The sale also offers an ultra-rare white gold Patek Philippe perpetual calendar reference 3448 from 1970, coming from the family of the original owner. This example is one of only 30 known white gold reference 3448s and the third featuring calendar discs in German.

**Patek Philippe perpetual calendar reference 3448 white gold (Image courtesy: Phillips)**

Rolex

The Geneva Watch Auction XI presents a wide selection of Rolex models, some of which are rarely seen on the market. These include: A reference 5513 circa 1963 in excellent condition featuring an ultra-rare “Explorer dial” or “3-6-9 dial”.

While the majority of Submariners were fitted with regular round hour markers, the present watch bears this extremely rare dial configuration, reminiscent of the dials also found on Rolex’s iconic “Big Crown” reference 6200.

**Rolex, Reference 6200 Big Crown, Estimate: CHF250,000-500,000 (Image courtesy: Phillips)**

Recently found in an antique shop in Alexandria, a Rolex Submariner “Big Crown” reference 6200 is also offered. Finally, Phillips is also offering one of the best-preserved examples of Rolex’s ultra-elusive reference 6232 in pink gold, from 1958. It is one of only twelve watches in existence, originally destined for the French market.

**Rolex, Reference 6232, Estimate: CHF200,000-400,000 (Image courtesy: Phillips)**

F.P. Journe

The Geneva Watch Auction XI offers two exceptional timepieces created by F.P. Journe: Tourbillon Souverain “Souscription” and Resonance “Souscription”.

F.P. Journe’s original Tourbillon Souverain “Souscription” is a historically important watch that enabled the Founder of the firm, Mr. François-Paul Journe, to set up his company. When Journe decided to launch his second iconic model, the Resonance, he offered the latter to the clients having already bought the tourbillon, here again he used a subscription system.

F.P. Journe, Résonance "Souscription", — **F.P. Journe, Résonance “Souscription”, Estimate: CHF 80,000-160,000 (Image courtesy: Phillips)**

The Resonance “Souscription” is a model rarely seen at auctions. The present example comes in a unique livery specially commissioned by Lorenz Baümer: platinum/pink gold case with white gold dial.

Harry Winston/ Vianney Halter

Another exceptional highlight is the Opus 3 made for Harry Winston by Vianney Halter, featuring a unique way of reading time. This example is number one from 25 pieces made in platinum.

**Harry Winston Opus 3 by Vianney Halter (Image courtesy: Phillips)**

Kari Voutilainen

Also topping the Independents’ Atelier section is a unique GMT model with power reserve hiding a beautifully engraved and enameled caseback featuring Triton, and a mermaid by Kari Voutilainen.

Some of the finest watches in terms of quality and condition will also be offered, including elegant dress, sports and complicated watches by prestigious collectors’ brands such as Patek Philippe and Rolex, A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, IWC, Longines and Breitling, to name only a few.

The selection of leading highlights will be available to the public during the pre-sale exhibitions opening in Asia and Europe. Following a preview in Hong Kong from May 20 to 27, highlights will be on display in Geneva from June 24 to 28, 2020.

Auction details

Dates

The Geneva Watch Auction XI, Part I: 27 June 2020, 5pm
The Geneva Watch Auction XI, Part II: 28 June 2020, 5pm

Auction Viewing

Asia: 20 – 27 May, Location: 14/F St. George’s Building, 2 Ice House Street, Central Hong Kong
Europe: 24 – 28 June, Location: Hôtel La Réserve, Bellevue, Geneva

Source: https://www.phillips.com/

Gerald Charles Maestro Collection: Maestro.97 Tourbillon & Maestro.99 Tourbillon

May 7, 2020August 2, 2021 MasterHorologer

The Maestro.97 Tourbillon & Maestro.99 Tourbillon models are two horological masterpieces from the Gerald Charles Maestro Collection, which pays tribute to the brand’s founder, Mr Gerald Charles Genta.

Gerald Charles Maestro.97 Tourbillon

This white gold watch incorporates an exceptional mechanical manual-wound tourbillon movement, which is skeletonised and hand-finished.

The Maestro.97 Skeleton Tourbillon Mustaches watch proudly displays a rare to find and polished stainless steel tourbillon bridge with a unique shaped inspired by the Mustaches of Mr. Gerald Charles Genta.

The convexity at 6 o’clock of the case offers a dedicated space for the one-minute Tourbillon. This perfectly integrates mechanics and aesthetics. The hand-finished skeleton movement is visible in its full depth, through sapphire crystals, from all angles.

Capable to store a power reserve up to 72 hours, the two large barrels of this manual wound movement are perfectly integrated with the see-through bridges.

The Gerald Charles Maestro.97 tourbillon watch was produced in a limited edition of 25 pieces only. It is now preserved in the Maison’s private collection.

Technical details

Model: Maestro.97 tourbillon
Reference: GC35-WG42-97

Movement
GC35 Manual-winding “Mustache bridge” Tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 v/h precision
Power Reserve: 72 hours

Functions
Hours, Minutes, One-minute Tourbillon

Case
Material: White Gold 18K
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 11.8 mm
Back: Sapphire Crystal open-work
Crystal: Sapphire no glare
Water resistance: 30 meters

Dial
“Squelette” open-work

Strap
Brown Crocodile skin strap with folding clasp in white-gold

Price
US$157’614

Gerald Charles Maestro.99 Tourbillon

The Maestro.99 Tourbillon watch comes in an innovatively designed squared carré case in pure Palladium. Measuring 42mm diameter, the watch case is shaped as an asymmetric polygon with eight cut edges coins coupés and a hemispheric convexity at 6 o’ clock.

This watch houses a manual-wound skeleton movement incorporating two iconic complications: Tourbillon Chronograph.

The Gerald Charles Maestro.99 Squelette Tourbillon Chronograph perfectly integrates mechanics and aesthetics. The half-moon shape at 6 o’ clock of the watch case provides a dedicated space for the flying Tourbillon.

The tourbillon ball is suspended between two sapphire crystals without any bearing bridge. The movement offers a power reserve up to 120 hours. The Gerald Charles Maestro.99 was produced in a limited edition of 12 pieces only. It is now preserved in the Maison’s private collection.

Technical details

Model: Maestro.99 Tourbillon
Reference: GCM3-PDCS02BDR-F/B-31

Movement
GCM3 Manual-winding Chrono Tourbillon
Suspended Tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 v/h precision
Power reserve: 120 hours

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Chronograph, Power Reserve

Case
Material: Palladium
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 11.8mm
Crystal: Sapphire no glare
Case-back: Sapphire Crystal open-work
Water resistance: 30 meters

Dial
“Squelette” open-work

Strap
Dark blue crocodile skin strap with folding clasp in white-gold

Price
US$214’929

Find more Gérald Charles watches.

Discover more details about the Gérald Charles brand and its history.

BOVET 1822 Fleurier 19Thirty, New Dial Versions Highlighting the « Fleurisanne » Engraving

February 14, 2020 MasterHorologer

The 19Thirty collection was inspired by the last pocket watches crafted by the Maison BOVET, before the advent of the wristwatch era. Its balance is inherited from the stylistic details of the “easel” chronometer which was patented in 1930 and symbolizes the shift towards wristwatches.

The 19Thirty collection was presented in 2015 exclusively in steel. The movement was specially developed for this collection, and the quality of its execution and finishes meets the same criteria of the Grandes Complications.

It offers seven days of power reserve with only a single barrel. Mr. Raffy, the owner of BOVET 1822, wanted this collection to offer two different cases including the iconic Fleurier case with its bow and crown that stand out with their 12:00 position.

The stir the collection created and the enthusiasm among collectors led Mr. Raffy to offer the19Thirty in a red gold case that can be bespoke to the collector’s taste.

This year, the collection features the Maison’s dedication to the decorative arts by offering a luxurious “Fleurisanne” engraving that embraces the hour and minute dial, as well as the second counter which form an eight: a symbol of luck and prosperity for the wearer.

For an added elegance, the « Fleurisanne » engraving is lacquered according to the color of the dial chosen by the collector.

Bovet’s extraordinary Engineering Brilliance is featured in the ergonomics of the 19Thirty collection, which are presented in a case 9mm thick and 42mm across.

The beautiful elements of the dial and the case unite with impeccable timekeeping, reliability and seven day power reserve to create a timeless, classic and exceptional timepiece that can be worn every day and turn every second into a moment of grace.

Technical details

Model: Fleurier 19Thirty

References
NTS0020, blue
NTS0019, black

Case
Type: Fleurier
Diameter: 42 mm
Material: stainless steel
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement
Caliber 11BM04
Type: Hand-wound movement
Diameter: 15 ¾ ’’’
Frequency: 21’600 v/h
Power reserve: 7 days

Functions
Hours, minutes, sub-seconds, power reserve indicator

Dial
Blue or black circular brushed dials with Roman numerals
Hand-engraved, with lacquered “Fleurisanne” motif

Strap
Full-skin alligator
Buckle: stainless steel ardillon

Price
CHF. 19’800.-

CIGA Design Z-Series Indiegogo Campaign to achieve one million dollars funding

February 1, 2020February 7, 2020 MasterHorologer

The CIGA Design Z-Series Mechanical Titanium Watch Indiegogo crowd-funding campaign has already raised $998,553 USD from 4,237 backers at the time of publishing this page. Now only two days left for finishing the campaign. Backers can order a mechanical skeleton watch with special price starting from USD 249. Estimate delivery in March 2020. Specifications: Grade 2 Titanium case, skeletonised Seagull AAA automatic self-winding, power reserve of 40 hours, water-resistant to 3 ATM, sapphire crystal glass, Silicone or Leather strap. Please visit the campaign page at https://ciga-design-z-series.kckb.st/26aee4d2

Piaget Possession Bucherer BLUE

October 25, 2019March 25, 2020 MasterHorologer

Created In partnership between Bucherer and Piaget, this rose gold watch for women was launched on September 9, 2019. A new member of the Exclusive Bucherer Blue Collection, the rose-gold Piaget Possession Bucherer BLUE with blue alligator-leather strap is an inspirational luxury watch for the discerning woman.

The Bucherer BLUE collection includes an exclusive selection of finest Swiss timepieces – available exclusively from Bucherer. For the past three years, Bucherer has been reinterpreting iconic timepieces.

The rose-gold Piaget Possession Bucherer BLUE represents the third partnership between the two brands. Bucherer’s close partnership with Piaget was first established back in 1979.

This rose-gold watch has a 34mm diameter case that houses an in-house quartz movement. This dazzling ladies timepiece features a rotating rose-gold bezel, lavishly set with 45 diamonds, and a single gorgeous sapphire.

Its mother-of-pearl dial boasts 11 blue sapphire hour markers. You can discover Piaget name at 3 o’clock instead of sapphire marker. Finally, the vibrant blue of the alligator-leather strap provides a bold, powerful contrast.

The rose-gold Piaget Possession Bucherer BLUE is available exclusively from Bucherer.

Technical details

Piaget 56P in-house quartz movement; case in rose gold: 34 mm, mother-of-pearl dial set with 11 blue sapphires; case set with 45 diamonds and one blue sapphire; interchangeable blue and white alligator-leather straps; total carat weight: 45 diamonds at ca. 1.409 ct., 12 sapphires at ca. 0.177 ct.

Retail price
CHF 18’900.– / EUR 18’500.– / GBP 16’400.– /

CHRONOSWISS

August 28, 2019August 28, 2019 MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Chronoswiss is a Swiss watch brand based in Lucerne in Switzerland.

Founded in 1983 by Gerd-R. Lang, Chronoswiss began its horological adventure in Munich in Germany by introducing mechanical wristwatches and pocket-watches produced in Switzerland.

Gerd-Rüdiger Lang began his career at a renowned chronograph manufacturer (Heuer) in Switzerland in 1964. He arrived in Munich to serve as the authorized representative of the manufacturer’s German subsidiary in 1974.

When the “Quartz Crisis” put a forced end to this business in 1981, the man who had chosen Munich to be his new home continued to operate a repair service as a freelancer. He also repaired mechanical timepieces for friends and acquaintances. Meanwhile, an idea was gestating in his mind: he longed to create a collection of his own watches, which he would christen “Chronoswiss.”

In the hard times of the Swiss watch industry Gerd-R. Lang bought surplus stocks of watches and mechanical movements because he loved the traditional art of watchmaking.

In 1983, he turned his passion into a profession and founded the Chronoswiss Company in Munich. At the beginning, the company produced watches in series by using modern calibres and manufacturing limited specialities whose production has been suspended for many years.

In 1987, the company launched Régulateur hand-wound wristwatch, their first serially manufactured wristwatch with a regulator-type dial. In 1990, Chronoswiss started manufacturing of its own models in Munich and introduced the Régulateur Automatique watch with its exclusive manufacture Chronoswiss C.122 movement.

In 2002, Chronoswiss established a subsidiary in Switzerland to handle production and logistics. In 2006, the company moved into a new manufacture building in Karlsfeld in the outskirts of Munich for uniting development, production, sales, marketing and shipping under one roof.

Since February 2012, Chronoswiss has been under the ownership of Ebstein family. The brand celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2013 by launching the Régulateur 30 limited edition collection. In June 2014, Chronoswiss moved into its new HQs located in Lucerne, Switzerland.

Chronology

1958-1961: Gerd-R. Lang learns the watchmaker’s metier at Jauns watch shop in his hometown of Braunschweig.

1962-1963: Apprenticeship at the Gross firm in Burg/Fehmarn.

1964-1979: Heuer stopwatch and chronograph factory in Biel, Switzerland.

1980: Attends the master school in Würzburg and graduates with the title of “Master Watchmaker.”

1981: Founds a special workshop for chronographs in Munich.

1982: Introduces the world’s first mechanical chronograph with moon phase display and mineral crystal back under the “Chronoswiss” name. This presages the renaissance of mechanical timepieces.

1983: Gerd-R. Lang founds Chronoswiss watch factory in and establishes a worldwide distribution structure.

1984: The name “Chronoswiss” is registered as a protected trademark.

1985: First Chronoswiss catalogue with mechanical wristwatches and pocket-watches produced in Switzerland. Distribution of the A. Rochat and Kelek brands. First appearance at Inhorgenta trade fair in Munich.

1987: World premiere of the “Régulateur” hand-wound wristwatch – the first serially manufactured wristwatch with a regulator-type dial. The typical Chronoswiss case is born. Its distinguishing characteristics include a screwed and channeled bezel, an onion-shaped crown and screwed strap lugs.

1988: The second catalogue features Chronoswiss’ first own models – “Régulateur” and “Pacific.” First appearance at the worldwide trade fair for watches and jewelry in Basel.

1990: World premiere of the “Régulateur Automatique” with its exclusive manufacture Chronoswiss C.122 movement. Beginning of the exclusive manufacture of the firm’s own models in Munich.

1991: World premiere of the “Kairos Chronograph” – the first automatic chronograph with off-center display of the hours and minutes.

1992: World premiere of the split-second chronograph “Rattrapante” (Swiss patent number 682201-0). Author of the specialized book “Chronograph – Wristwatches, Lang/Meis.” The third catalogue (“Chronoswiss – Faszination der Mechanik”) is published. It exclusively features the firm’s own models.

1993: Presentation of the “Cabrio” reversible wristwatch (European patent number 0562522). Presentation of the first serially produced white enamel dials of recent years in the “Orea” model.

1994: Presentation of the “Grand Régulateur,” (international patenting number 030021). 1st prize from the Italian watch magazine “Orologi”, Vicenza, in the category of “young successful enterprises.”

1995: World premiere of the “Opus” – the first serially produced, automatic, skeletonized chronograph. Launching of the “Lunar Chronograph”

1996: World premiere of the “Delphis” and its registration for a Swiss patent – the first wristwatch that combines a unique system of analogue, digital and retrograde time displays. First prize and award of “Watch of the Year” title from Armbanduhren magazine, Heel publishers, for the “Opus” skeletonized chronograph.1st prize for Thomas Schnelle as the national and federal winner of apprentices awarded by the Central Association of the German Watchmaker Craft.

1997: Chronoswiss is the official timekeeper for the STW Cup (Super Touring Car Cup). Third prize and award of the “Watch of the Year” title from Armbanduhren magazine, Heel publishers, for the “Delphis” model.

1998: World premiere of the “Pathos” – the first skeletonized, self-winding, split-second chronograph (Swiss patent number 682201-0).First prize and award of the “Golden Balance” title from Uhrenmagazin for the “Delphis” model. First prize and award of “Watch of the Year” title from World Photo Press magazine in Japan for the “Opus” model. Finalist Award, The New York Festival for the “Personality” advertising campaign. Founding of the first own Chronoswiss subsidiary in Bellport, Long Island, USA.

1999: First prize and award of the “Innovation Prize” from Chronos magazine for the “Pathos” model.

2000: First prize and award of the “Golden Balance / International Watch Award” from Uhren magazine for the “Tora Chronograph” model. “Signs of the times – Tick-Talk: A Timely Book” is published in German as Chronoswiss’ fourth catalogue.

2001: World premiere of the “Chronoscope” – the first automatic chronograph with Regulator-dial. An exclusive homage to the pioneers of the Chronograph.

2002: Third price and award of the title “Golden Balance/ International Watch Award” by watch magazine “Uhrenmagazin”, Ebner publishers for the “Opus” model. Gerd-R. Lang wins the Hungaria Classic 2002 with co-driver András Noszvai in the Jaguar XK 120 “C-Type”. Chronoswiss establishes a subsidiary in Switzerland. The Chrono SA subsidiary located in Niedau close to Biel is responsible for production and logistics.

2003: Presentation of the “Répetition à Quarts” at the Jewelry and Watch Trade Show in Basel, that tells the time exactly to the 15 minutes by the push of the pusher via a striking mechanism. First prize “Watch of the Year” title from Armbanduhren magazine, Heel publishers, for the “Chronoscope” model as well as award of the “Watch of the Year” by Horologes Magazine, Netherlands. Second prize and award of the “Golden Balance / International Watch Award” from Uhren Magazin for the “Delphis” model.

2004: Presentation of the “Régulateur à Tourbillon Squelette” at the Jewelry and Watch Trade Show in Basel, the first skeleton and hand-engrave Tourbillon with regulator dial, limited edition in 200 pieces.

2005: Third prize and award of the “Golden Balance / International Watch Award” from Uhren Magazin for the “Répétition à quarts” model. 4th place “Golden Balance” for the model “Chronoscope” and 8th place for the model “Orea handwinding”. The first Chronoswiss Classics takes place first time in September 2005 at Lake Starnberg. Presentation of the “Digiteur” (limited edition) and “Perpetual Calendar” at the Jewelry and Watch Trade Show in Basel. September 23, 2005 cornerstone was laid for the new production facility with the entire Chronoswiss staff and all 40 international distribution partners.

2006: Debut of the “Grand Régulateur”, “Timemaster Chronograph Date” and “Perpetual Calendar” at the watch and jewelry fair in Basel. 2nd place “Watch of the Year 2006” for “Digiteur” by the readers of Armbanduhren special-interest magazine + Welt am Sonntag.4th place “Golden Balance/International Watch Award” by Uhrenmagazin, Ebner Publishers for the “Digiteur” model and 6th place for the “Régulateur” model. 1st place “Advertisement of the Month” in Uhrenmagazin special-interest magazine for the “Take Your Time” motif in June and July/August and for the “Time is a Present” motif in December, and 2nd place “Advertisement of the Month” for the “Time in Flow” motif in the April issue. Diner’s Club Magazine confers its “Visionary of the Year” award on Gerd-R. Lang. Move into Bavaria’s first wristwatch factory in December.

2007: 1st place “Golden Balance/International Watch Award” by Uhrenmagazin, Ebner Publishers and Focus Online for the “Chronoscope” model, 5th place for the “Timemaster Day + Night” model, 8th place for the “Perpetual Calendar” model and 5th place for the “Répétition à Quarts” model.

2008: 3rd place “Golden Balance/International Watch Award” by Uhrenmagazin, Ebner Publishers and Focus Online for the “Grand Régulateur”, 3rd place for the “Répétition à Quarts”, 4th place for the “Perpetual Calendar” and 5th place for the “Imperia”.

2012: The Swiss entrepreneurial family Ebstein (Oliver Ebstein and his wife Eva Maria) acquires the assets of Chronoswiss from founder Gerd-Rüdiger Lang. Oliver Ebstein will be the new CEO. Founder Gerd-Rüdiger Lang will continue to support the company also in the future.

2013: Chronoswiss celebrates its thirtieth anniversary and creates a new limited edition of the Régulateur – the Régulateur 30. Chronoswiss presents Artist’s Collection, a watch line characterized by craftsmanship that is created exclusively in the brand’s own workshop in Lucerne.

Official website: http://www.chronoswiss.com

LANG & HEYNE FRIEDRICH III

July 14, 2019July 14, 2022 MasterHorologer

The LANG & HEYNE FRIEDRICH III is a restrained and traditional interpretation of the classic three-hand watch.

The Roman numerals set around the dial coordinate beautifully with the cathedral hands to deliver a charming visual treat. The off centre seconds dial is precisely positioned in the lower half of the dial.

The FRIEDRICH III watch is equipped with the manual-wound calibre VI. The generous exhibition case back affords a wonderful view of the movement architecture.

The unique trigonal bridge is designed to expose as much of the beautifully finished gear train as possible while allowing adequate spacing between the wheels to ensure optimal power transmission.

Measuring 39.2 mm diameter, the watch case is available in 18K gold, platinum or stainless steel.

Technical details

Case
Material: 1

Technical details

Hanhart 417 ES 1954 Flyback Panda and Reverse Panda 39

Hanhart 417 ES Flyback Panda and Reverse Panda 42

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About “Naissance d’une Montre”

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Case

Crystal

Bezel

Dial

Movement

Bracelet

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What to do now?

Here is why this watch makes a good mother’s day gift:

● Timeless Gift For Your Cool Mom

● Suitable for Independent Women

So why not help your mother put the best look forward with the OLTO wristwatch collection?

● Stunning Design to Add Charm to Your Mom’s Personality

What does your queen deserve on Mother’s Day?

● Convenient and Light Weight- Feels Luxe

Wrapping Up

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