Porsche Design expands its Sport Chrono collection with new 39mm watches.
In 2020, Porsche Design launched the Sport Chrono Collection, a new collection inspired by the instrument cluster of the Porsche Design Sport Chrono package. It combines classic design features, materials and performance characteristics of Porsche sports cars and transfers them directly into a wristwatch. While the first generation of the Sport Chrono Collection debuted in a 42- millimeter titanium case, the new models feature a diameter of 39 millimeters – a first for Porsche Design.
When the legendary Porsche 911 was first launched in 1963, the dashboard instruments included an electric timepiece as part of the 5-tube instruments. In the early 2000s, Porsche added an additional central instrument that was placed prominently in the middle. Initially displaying lap times, it was continuously refined to provide additional control functions for various engine and chassis components as well as the exhaust system. As part of this “Sport Chrono Package,” it was not a classic three-hand clock on the dashboard, but rather an instrument with a digital display and a single hand.
In 2020, the Sport Chrono package was expanded to include an exclusive chronograph from Porsche Design, the Porsche Design Subsecond clock. Offered in manufacture assembly, featuring a high- end metal dial with radial cut, ceramic indices with Superluminova coating and metal hands, the analog chronograph creates sporty and elegant accents in the cockpit. The specially developed incident-light technology ensures optimum readability inside the car – from every angle, at all times. The Porsche Design Sport Chrono package is currently available in the Porsche Panamera and Taycan models.
For the first time, Porsche Design has chosen a case diameter of less than 40 millimeters, which lends the models an even more elegant aesthetic and appeals to watch lovers with smaller wrists. The Sport Chrono Subsecond models with running seconds at 6 o’clock are powered by the Porsche Design caliber WERK 03.200 with COSC certification.
The automatic movement is equipped with the Porsche Design Icon rotor, which guarantees powerful winding. The timepieces are available with a black, blue or brown dial and color-coordinated leather straps made of genuine Porsche car leather.
Additional features of characteristic Porsche Design are the seven-fold anti-reflective sapphire crystal with hard coating, the high-quality leather strap made of genuine Porsche leather and the titanium folding clasp with safety pushers.
The lineup of the new Porsche Design 39 millimeter Sport Chrono wristwatch collection is available at a starting price of 4,450.00 euro (RRP).
Introduced in 2005 and designed after a pressure gauge, Manometro is the debut watch model of Giuliano Mazzuoli. Presently, it has grown into a flagship collection of the Florence based brand. This emblematic range combines the best Swiss technology with Italian design.
The signature features of the Manometro series are: cylindrical case, simple design, easy to read dial inspired by pressure gauges, leather strap inserted directly into the case with ergonometric support inserts and the massive crown at 2 o’ clock.
Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro watch with polished stainless steel case and ivory dial
The notable models of this series are Manometro Steel, Manometro Chronograph, Manometro Bronze, Manometro Italia and Manometro Compressed. All these timepieces are designed in Italy by Giuliano Mazzuoli and produced in Switzerland.
Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro watch with polished stainless steel case and red dial
The Manometro Solo Tempo (time-only) watches are equipped with the Swiss made ETA 2824/2 automatic movement while the chronograph model is driven by a Swiss made Dubois-Dépraz 2030 Luxe automatic movement.
Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro watch with polished stainless steel case and white dial
Manometro stainless steel watches are available with brushed or polished case. There is also a version with a natural brushed bronze case. The Italian edition features a colourful cylindrical case in steel and epoxy resin in the colors of the Italian flag.
Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro watch with brushed bronze case and green dial
Both chronograph and time-only models have the same case dimensions: 45mm diameter and 14mm thickness. Available in 316L stainless steel and bronze versions, the Manometro Compressed watch measures 45mm diameter and 10mm thickness.
Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro Compressed watch with bronze case and black dial
All Manometro watches boast a massive crown at 2 o’ clock, with 12 grooves for better grip. The chronograph version features two pushers at 8H and 10H, in addition to the emblematic crown at 2H.
Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro chronograph with ivory dial
Manometro Solo Tempo watches are available with black, ivory, blue, green, white or red dials. The Italia version comes with black or white dial while Manometro chronograph has black or ivory dial.
Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro Compressed watch with polished stainless steel case and blue dial
Water resistant to 50 meters, each Manometro timepiece is fitted with a convex sapphire crystal glass. Made in Tuscany, the calf-skin leather strap has a stainless steel buckle with the Mazzuoli logo inscribed on it. Each wristwatch comes meticulously packaged in a hand-made, high-quality Florentine leather box with a sewn rope embroidering.
Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro Compressed watch with polished stainless steel case and green dial
Giuliano Mazzuoli’s watches are available in the finest retailers in the world. The retail price of Manometro ‘time only’ watch is 2,500 Euros. The chronograph version has a selling price of 4,600 Euros.
Technical details
Models: Manometro, Manometro Bronze, Manometro Italia and Manometro Compressed
Movement
Mechanical automatic movement in caliber ETA 2824/2 with shockproof system
Incabloc and Côtes de Genève decoration
Functions
Hours, minutes, and seconds
Case
Cylindrical polished or brushed stainless steel (inox AISI 316/L) or natural bronze brushed case with a straight-angled base with 8 screws holding the steel watch back to the watch and a curved lunette
Italia version: Cylindrical case in steel and epoxy resin in the colors of the Italian flag
Diameter: 45mm
Thickness: 14 mm case height (10mm in case of Manometro Compressed)
Water resistance: 5 atmospheres (ATM); 50 meters; 164feet
Crystal: Convex sapphire crystal; anti-reflective
Crown: A stainless steel, large dimension screw-in crown with 12 grooves is positioned at 2 o’clock and the Mazzuoli logo is engraved at the top.
Dial
Black, ivory, blue, green, white or red colored dial
Italia version: Black or white colored dial
Strap
Handcrafted calf-skin Florentine leather strap inserted directly into the case with ergonometric support inserts and a steel buckle.
Price
2,500 Euros
Model: Manometro Chronograph
Movement
Swiss made mechanical movement with automatic winding, Dubois-Dépraz 2030 Luxe
49 jewels
28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz)
Central rotor
Bi-directional automatic winding
Incabloc shock protection
42-hour power reserve
Functions
Hour and minutes
Centre chronograph seconds hand
30 minutes counter at 2 o’clock
Small seconds sub-dial at 8 o’clock
Case
Cylindrical polished or brushed stainless steel (inox AISI 316/L) case with a straight-angled base with 8 screws holding the watch back to the watch and a curved lunette.
45 mm case diameter
14 mm case height
Two cylindrical chronograph pushers in with Giuliano Mazzuoli’s logo Patented system for preventing dust and water intrusion
Screw-in Crown at 2 o’clock
Start-Stop pusher at 8 o’clock
Reset pusher at 10 o’clock
Crystal: Convex sapphire crystal; anti-reflective
Water resistance: 5 ATM/ 50 meters/164 feet
Dial
Black or ivory colored dial
Black baton-shaped hour and minute hands with luminescent coating
Red centre chronograph seconds hand
Silvered sub-dials for small seconds and chronograph 30 minutes
Strap
Handcrafted in Tuscany in natural calf-skin Florentine leather inserted directly into the case with ergonometric support inserts and an ardillon steel buckle
Crafted by Manufacture horlogère Jämes C. Pellaton SA in Le Locle, this red gold wristwatch incorporates a manual-winding skeleton movement endowed with a high-end tourbillon complication. This single unique piece is a result of two years of work, which also includes rare and intricate artistic techniques like skeletonising, chamfering, engraving and hand-finishing.
The mechanical engine that powers this timepiece is Calibre JCP 1898 MD. Manually wound, this exclusive Jämes C. Pellaton movement has an impressive power reserve of 72 hours. This intricate mechanical calibre is made of 285 parts. The one minute tourbillon is positioned at 6 o’ clock along with the small seconds display.
The Royal Marine Chronometer Skeleton displays hour and minutes with two central hands. A centrally placed pointer hand displays date along with a retrograde scale. This swiss made mechanical watch also features a power reserve indicator at 9 o’ clock. All the hands indicating the above functions are made of gold and blued.
Technical details
Model: Jämes C. Pellaton Royal Marine Chronometer Skeleton
Movement
Calibre JCP 1898 MD
Manual winding skeleton movement with tourbillon
Diameter: 36.60 mm
Height: 9.70 mm
285 parts
27 jewels
Power reserve: 72 minimum hours
One barrel with a reverse pawl
Balance: With variable inertia screw
Escapement: Swiss lever
Frequency: 21600 Alt/h
Balance spring: Breguet
Bottom plates: Wet blasting nickel silver, hand bevelled
Bridges: Wet blasting nickel silver, hand bevelled
Gear train: Dentures NIHS, bevelling above and below
Tourbillon: One rotation per minute displayed at 6
Functions
• Hours, minutes and date
• Small second at 6
• Power reserve
• Retrograde date scale beginning at 8 (1) ending at 2 (31)
Case
Red or white gold
Domed sapphire crystal
Transparent background relief engravings, domed sapphire crystal
Diameter: 44. 00 mm
Height: 14. 85 mm
Water resistance: 5 atm – 50 m
Crown: With black enameled JCP logo
Dial
Sapphire
Hands: In blued gold, hand bevelled
Strap
Black or brown alligator, hand stitched, gold clasp engraved Jämes C. Pellaton
This unique and exceptional pocket watch made by Le Locle based Manufacture horlogère Jämes C. Pellaton SA seamlessly blends the art of open-working with a complex tourbillon complication.
The watch in 65mm diameter red gold case houses the Calibre JCP 1895 MD manual-winding movement that incorporates a one minute tourbillon at 6’ o clock and a power reserve indicator at 9 o’ clock. This Swiss made pocket skeleton chronometer tourbillon watch has a power reserve of seven days.
This Jämes C. Pellaton pocket watch with open-worked dial has four blued-gold hands, respectively for hour, minute, power reserve and small seconds. It took approximately two years to manufacture this one-of-a-kind mechanical timepiece.
Technical details
Movement
Calibre JCP 1895 MD
Manual winding movement
Diameter: 53 mm
Height: 13, 35 mm
294 parts
29 jewels
Power reserve: 7 days
Double barrel in parallel with coincident gears stopping system
Balance: With variable inertia screw
Escapement: Swiss lever
Frequency: 21,600 Alt/h
Balance spring: Flat double balance spring in opposition
Bottom plates: Wet blasting nickel silver, hand bevelled
Bridges: Extra features drawn nickel silver
Gear train: Dentures NIHS, bevelling above and below
Tourbillon: One rotation per minute displayed at 6
Indications
• Hours and minutes in the center
• Small second at 6
• Power reserve
Case
Red gold
Diameter: 65. 00 mm
Height: 17 mm
Anti reflective sapphire crystal
Transparent background relief engravings, domed sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 atm – 50 m
Crown with black enameled JCP logo
Dial
54 mm, sapphire
Hands: In blued gold, hand bevelled
This automatic wristwatch from Xerix pays tribute to the 18th century globe manufactures who used to showcase celestial maps on glass spheres surrounding the earth. Made of stainless steel, this timepiece is available in various color themes like Green, Blue, Red, Yellow Gold, Rose Gold and Gun Metal. Each of these variants is limited to 500 pieces.
Its dial side take cues from the antique glass globes. On to the front sapphire glass, longitude and latitude lines as well as the minutes are carefully electroplated. The domed planet at the center of the fume dial adds a 3D effect. Outer space surrounds the globe and allows the floating minutes to be concealed until the orbiting moon reveals the time. Its luminescent hands ensure great legibility during low light conditions.
Dressed in a 40mm diameter case, the Xeric Atlasphere Automatic watch is equipped with the Miyota 82S0 self winding mechanical movement. Its customized oscillating weight can be admired through the transparent case back. This 21-jewel movement has a power reserve up to 40 hours.
The watch comes with an American Horween leather strap, which features a quick release system for fast and easy tool-free strap changes.
The Atlasphere Automatic watch has a retail price of US$ 499/-. Please visit Xeric online store for more details about this timepiece.
Technical details
Model: Atlasphere Automatic
Case
316L Stainless Steel
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 12.5mm
Crystal: Sapphire Glass
Water Resistance: 5 ATM
Movement
Miyota 82S0 self-winding mechanical movement
Number of jewels: 21 Jewels
Frequency: 21600 BPH
Power reserve: 42 Hours
Made in Japan
Rotor: custom built globe-shaped
Functions
Hours, Revealing Minutes, Central Seconds
Strap
American Full-grain Leather from Horween with Built-in Quick Release Springbar System, 20 mm wide
Availability
Limited and individually numbered 500 pieces per variant
The Swiss luxury watchmaker TAG Heuer and the German sportscar manufacturer Porsche have announced their new partnership: an authentic alliance between two brands whose common DNA in motorsports and racing forges a holistic and long-term collaboration ranging from competition to product development. A new watch, the TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph, is unveiled as first celebration of the iconic brands.
TAG Heuer and Porsche have a number of things in common, from their rich histories and reputations for innovation to cutting-edge technologies, powerful and independent mindset, and a knack for excellence in design. Both companies were founded by self-taught entrepreneurs. Edouard Heuer and Ferdinand Porsche were visionaries whose creations changed their chosen fields forever.
Heuer was responsible for the first manufactured chronograph and Porsche invented an electric wheel hub motor. Both these accomplishments earned medals at World’s Fairs held in Paris 11 years apart. Heuer was honoured in 1889 and Porsche presented the first Lohner-Porsche Electromobile with this innovation at the Expo in Paris in 1900.
The true cornerstones of the new partnership, however, are descendants of the brands’ founding fathers. Ferdinand Porsche’s son, Ferdinand Anton Ernst or “Ferry”, joined his father’s engineering office in 1931 at the age of 22 and founded the car brand that bears the family name in 1948. Within a few years, the Porsche name would be associated with race track success all around the world – including a class win in the Carrera Panamericana race of 1954. In honour of its successful participation, Porsche calls its most powerful engine ‘Carrera’.
Edouard Heuer’s great-grandson Jack led his family’s company for decades. In 1963, he created the first Heuer Carrera chronograph, designed to let drivers tell the time at a glance in the heat of action. This ground-breaking timepiece and Porsche’s most powerful Carrera engine united Porsche and Heuer – for the first time – in the spirit of the ‘Carrera’ (or ‘race’), which embodied ambition, speed and technical excellence.
Jack Heuer was also responsible for the Heuer Monaco, the first square-faced, water-resistant automatic chronograph watch. Its name evoked the Monaco Grand Prix as well as the Principality’s renowned Monte Carlo Rally, which Porsche won in three consecutive years, from 1968 to 1970, with its signature 911 model. Just as the Porsche 911 had done for automobiles, the Heuer Monaco – with its distinctive case, its blue metallic dial, its red seconds hand and the crown positioned on the left side of the case – broke with the familiar design codes of traditional watchmaking.
Carrera: an icon of a name that has been associated with TAG Heuer and Porsche for generations – so it was a natural choice for the first creative product collaboration. A tribute to the heritage of two legendary brands, both on and off the racetrack, the new chronograph offers a first glimpse at what they can achieve together.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph is an exquisite example of coordination, cooperation and collaboration. Based on TAG Heuer’s Carrera Sport Chronograph design, with its distinctive tachymeter scale engraved on the bezel, it introduces a number of features inspired by Porsche’s design essence. A compelling union of two icons of performance, quality, and innovation, this chronograph is a seamless blend of the Porsche and TAG Heuer universes, reflecting the excellence of both names without diluting the essence of either.
Porsche’s engraved inscription is visible on the bezel and the unmistakable font is also used for the indexes. The Porsche colours of red, black, and grey – which also recall historic Heuer models – are incorporated throughout the watch, and on clear display through the transparent crystal case back is the oscillating mass, which has been redesigned in affectionate tribute to Porsche’s celebrated steering wheel.
It is printed with “Porsche” and “TAG Heuer”. The dial’s asphalt effect, created especially for this watch, perfectly expresses a passion for the road, while Arabic numerals suggest the numbers on the dashboard of fine Porsche sportscars.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph is presented either on a soft strap in luxurious calf leather and innovative stitching that echoes the Porsche interior or on an interlocking bracelet reflecting streamlined racing design.
At the heart of this stunning timepiece is the in-house Calibre Heuer 02 manufacture movement with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. The chronograph mechanism’s vertical clutch and column wheel demonstrate the brands’ unflinching demand for absolute precision.
Finally, the TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph is a Special Edition watch and is delivered in bespoke packaging with colours and a style consistent with the remarkable watch inside. The black watch box features the logos of TAG Heuer and Porsche in white. Inside the box is a perfectly-sized black travel pouch with an unmistakably Porsche red interior.
Technical details
Model: TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph Special Edition 44 mm Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic
Reference: CBN2A1F.FC6492
Movement
Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic
Case
44 mm diameter
Steel polished, fine brushed case
Ceramic black tachymeter fixed bezel; Porsche inscription
Domed, beveled sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment
Steel crown at 3 o’clock with red
Steel screw-down sapphire case back with special engraving
Water resistance: 100 meters
Dial
Grey asphalt dial
3 counters:
— 3 o’clock: black “azurage” minute chronograph counter; rhodium plated polished hand red tip
— 6 o’clock: black “azurage” second chronograph counter; rhodium plated polished hand
— 9 o’clock: black “azurage” hour chronograph counter; rhodium plated polished hand red tip
Black gold plated applied indexes with white Super-LumiNova®
Rhodium plated hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova®
Rhodium plated central hand red tip
TAG Heuer applied logo
6 o’clock date
CARRERA HEUER 02 80 HOURS
Strap
Embossed black calf leather strap with hand stitching; calf skin black lining
Steel folding clasp with double safety push-buttons
Available from
February 2021
Model: TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph Special Edition 44 mm Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic
Reference: CBN2A1F.BA0643
Movement
Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic
Case
44 mm diameter
Steel polished, fine brushed case
Ceramic black tachymeter fixed bezel; Porsche inscription
Domed, beveled sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment
Steel crown at 3 o’clock with red
Steel screw-down sapphire case back with special engraving
Water resistance: 100 meters
Dial
Grey asphalt dial
3 counters:
— 3 o’clock: black “azurage” minute chronograph counter; rhodium plated polished hand red tip
— 6 o’clock: black “azurage” second chronograph counter; rhodium plated polished hand
— 9 o’clock: black “azurage” hour chronograph counter; rhodium plated polished hand red tip
Black gold plated applied indexes with white Super-LumiNova®
Rhodium plated hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova®
Rhodium plated central hand red tip
TAG Heuer applied logo
6 o’clock date
CARRERA HEUER 02 80 HOURS
Cuervo y Sobrinos unveils two new Historiador models, each providing a different perspective of the moon yet sharing many elements in common.
In the Southern Hemisphere, the moon appears upside down with its sunlit side opposite to how it appears in the Northern Hemisphere. The new Historiador Luna Negra is intended for use in the Northern Hemisphere, while the Historiador Doble Luna is suitable for all geographic locations.
The Historiador Luna Negra is offered with a choice of anthracite or sand-coloured dials and features colour-coordinated hands and indexes. The moon-phase is shown via a large crescent-shaped aperture, designed to show the age of the moon as viewed within the Northern Hemisphere.
Another key difference with this model is that some areas of the dial are open-worked; revealing an array of movement parts normally hidden from view.
The model also displays the date, day, month and includes a central sweep seconds hand.
Two versions of the Historiador Doble Luna are available, each endowed with a blue dial. This model simultaneously shows the age of the moon in both the Northern Hemisphere and Southern Hemisphere. However, this model’s list of functions is not limited just to its stylish moonphase indications.
Colour-coordinated Breguet hour and minute hands float above a sea of blue Clous de Paris guilloche, interacting with diamond-shaped indexes and elongated Roman numerals.
A hand, endowed with a red crescent-shaped tip, circumnavigates the dial, pointing to the prevailing date. A brushed steel circlet occupies the central area of the dial and features two apertures, one revealing the day and a second disclosing the month. The brand’s name adorns the upper section of the brushed circlet. A central sweep seconds hand completes the inventory of functions.
Both the Historiador Luna Negra and the Historiador Doble Luna are housed in a 40mm highly polished stainless steel. The style of the case bears a close resemblance to a former design seen on one of the Maison’s vintage models, circa 1946. This case features an ergonomic lug design.
The automatic Calibre CYS 6331 incorporates a colored and decorated oscillating weight.
Movement
Calibre CYS 6331
Automatic
Diameter: 25.6 mm
Height: 5.1 mm
Power reserve 42 hours
31 jewels
Frequency: 28800 A/h
Finished oscillating weight with engraving
Functions
Hours, minutes, centre seconds, day, month, and moon-phase indication
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.25 mm
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Water resistant to 3 ATM
Screwed see-through case back with sapphire crystal
Inspired by some of the beautiful Japanese decorative patterns, Seiko has created a new series of watches within its Presage collection. Featuring textured dials highlighted with Japanese Asanoha or hemp leaf pattern, these new timepieces proudly carry a powerful and fresh expression of Japanese artistry.
These timepieces feature traditional, high quality round cases made from stainless steel. On closer inspection, you will discover the real beauty of the watch thanks to its sharply angled case structure and the delicate design of the textured dial.
The case and bracelet of these watches incorporate a unique design featuring many precise and polished flat surfaces. The sharpness of this design allows the watch to shine and sparkle from every angle. Three of the four watches in the new series have a super-hard coating that protects the case and bracelet from scratches and also endows it with a long-lasting brilliance.
The dial incorporates a Japanese Asanoha or hemp leaf pattern, familiar in Japanese culture for its use in design since the Heian period over a thousand years ago. The rich texture and intricacy of the dial’s sharply edged geometric pattern create a subtle color gradation as they play with the light at different angles.
The series comprises four new watches, each offering a dial with a different traditional Japanese color; Shironeri, an unbleached silky white, Aitetsu, or indigo iron, Tokiwa, the color of evergreen trees and Susutake, a brown-toned smoked bamboo. The watches are all powered by the 24 jewel Caliber 6R35 which delivers a power reserve of 70 hours. The glass material is sapphire crystal, and the exhibition case back, also in sapphire, reveals the delicate finishing of the movement.
All four watches from the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series are available from September 2020 at Seiko Boutiques and selected retail stores worldwide.
Movement
Caliber 6R35
Vibrations: 21,600 vibrations per hour (6 beats per second)
Power reserve: 70 hours
Number of jewels: 24
Case
Stainless steel case and bracelet with super-hard coating (SPB165, 167, 169)
Stainless steel case with rose gold color plating (SPB170)
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
See-through screw case back
Diameter: 39.3mm, Thickness: 11.1mm
Water resistance: 10 bar
Magnetic Resistance: 4,800 A/m
Bracelet/strap
Stainless Steel bracelet with three-fold clasp with push button release (SPB165, 167, 169)
Horse strap with three-fold clasp with push button release (SPB170)
Price
Approximate recommended retail price in Europe: €990
Celebrating its 15th anniversary, Le Sentier based independent Swiss watch manufacturer Romain Gauthier has created the Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette watch collection.
This special edition from the prestigious Insight Micro-Rotor line is equipped with a stunning, skeletonised, in-house movement featuring superlatively hand-finished mainplate and bridges in ultra-light, natural titanium.
By opening up and stripping down his high-end, time-only automatic calibre, Romain has created a truly contemporary skeleton watch that is a technical and artistic tour de force. Not only do the skeletonised, ultra-light natural titanium bridges and mainplate help to reveal the mesmerising mechanics of the in-house movement, they also provide the perfect platform for the Romain Gauthier anglage specialists to demonstrate their immense skills.
For each Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette movement features as many as 250 hours devoted to anglage alone, that’s to say the bevelling, softening, smoothing and polishing by hand of the bridges and mainplate, in an extraordinary demonstration of watchmaking artistry.
Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette is available in a 42mm case made out of Carbonium®, a cutting-edge carbon composite sourced from aerospace-grade fibres that is light, mechanically resistant and catches the eye with its dynamic veining. This is a customisable “Manufacture Only” edition available exclusively via Manufacture Romain Gauthier.
Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette is also available as customisable 39.5mm precious metal or titanium “Special Orders” through Romain Gauthier or its retail partners. To show the delightful possibilities, Romain has created two Special Order examples, one in 18k red gold and another in 950 platinum.
Skeletonising Insight Micro-Rotor
Insight Micro-Rotor is Romain Gauthier’s high-end, automatic timepiece of which the hour, minute and small second indications are powered by an in-house calibre boasting bidirectional micro-rotor made from 22k solid gold.
Caseback of Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium® Edition
Visible dial side and through the display back, this oscillating weight turns smoothly between two bridges, each fitted with a friction-minimising, wear-resistant ruby bearing. In whichever direction the micro-rotor swings, it winds a serially operating double mainspring barrel offering 80 hours of power at full wind.
For Romain, the architecture of the arcing bridges, the position of the balance and micro-rotor, and the layout of the gears and barrels meant skeletonising this movement would really add something.
Making the mainplate and bridges in ultra-light, natural titanium
Romain’s design for opening up the Insight Micro-Rotor entailed skeletonising the mainplate and eight bridges that, until now, have been made in solid brass. At the thicknesses he envisaged, going as thin as 0.7mm, skeletonised brass bridges wouldn’t have necessarily held up.
Bridge on the left that has been bevelled by hand c.f. bridge on right that has been bevelled, softened, smoothed and polished by hand – Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium Edition
Grade 5 titanium, however, offered the requisite strength and a lightness that could reduce the overall weight of the movement to 15.95g, the ability to look good naturally without the need for galvanic deposition, and the ability to be hand-polished. All the same, machining titanium has its challenges.
Off-the-scale hand-finishing drawing on 15 years of savoir-faire
If machining the titanium mainplate and bridges of Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette has its challenges, they pale in comparison to the challenges of hand-finishing them. For this skeletonised movement calls on a particular savoir-faire for which Romain and his team have garnered plenty of acclaims since the brand was founded in 2005: anglage, or the art of bevelling, softening, smoothing and polishing components by hand.
Put simply, anglage beautifies the component by creating a polished bevel between its surface and its flanks, one which catches the light and the eye. The angleur or angleuse creates a bevel using a steel file, then softens and smooths the material, first with degussit stone then using a series of buffs with emery-paper tip gradually going from a coarser to a finer grain, before polishing the bevel using the woody stem of the locally-growing gentian plant with diamond paste. It requires skill, experience and patience, and even relatively simply-shaped bridges made in brass can each take tens of hours to bevel, soften, smooth and polish by hand.
As you can imagine, the skeletonised mainplate and bridges of the Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette tested the talents of the Romain Gauthier anglage team on an entirely new level. One thing was the complexity of the shapes created by the skeletonisation, featuring no fewer than 156 sharp, internal angles that make it tricky for these artisans to access with their handheld tools, while limiting the scope of movement that their hands can make. Another thing was the way in which the titanium behaves.
Softening and smoothing a bridge from the Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette using a buff
Indeed, it takes one Romain Gauthier anglage specialist no fewer than 250 hours to bevel, soften, smooth and polish by hand the natural titanium mainplate and eight bridges needed for one Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette.
And that’s not even counting the time it takes Sylvie Devaux, Head of Anglage at Manufacture Romain Gauthier and her team to carry out other decorative techniques applied by hand to these components, such as polishing the screw and jewel countersinks using an ebony spindle, satin-finishing the flanks and hand-frosting the flat surfaces.
Sylvie Devaux, Head of Anglage at Manufacture Romain Gauthier
In fact, when you add up all the hours devoted to decorating the entire movement by hand or by hand-operated tools – including anglage, hand-frosting, polishing countersinks, circular graining, straight graining and snailing – it comes to over 350 hours of work!
In addition to hand-polished bevels, customers can opt for matte-finished bevels on their Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette, giving a slightly more understated look. The latter removes the need for the hand-polishing stage, but still involves the steps of bevelling, softening and smoothing by hand.
Watchmaker’s assembly of the Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette
Raising the bar for contemporary skeleton watches
While the superlatively hand-finished, skeletonised mainplate and bridges of the Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette are a spectacle in themselves, opening up the calibre uncovers a raft of fresh details.
Between 1 o’clock and 3 o’clock, the winding and time-setting mechanisms are more visible with a cluster of Romain Gauthier S-slot screws on show. We can now see one of the mainspring barrels, decorated by snailing, at 5 o’clock and, at 7 o’clock, circular-grained gears with circular, bevelled arms. The increased sense of depth created by this skeletonisation makes the balance wheel at 6 o’clock appear as though it is floating, while the snailed micro-rotor at 9 o’clock sways more dramatically than ever between the stripped-down bridges.
The spectacle continues through the display back where the micro-rotor can be seen engaging the visible train of gears, beginning with the reversing gear that gives the mechanism its bidirectionality. The highly-decorated barrels and ratchet wheels are now more exposed, while the sinuous shapes of the bridges are juxtaposed by the straight-grained, linear plaquettes adorning them.
For his first ever Manufacture-Only edition, Romain has chosen probably his sportiest looking watch to date: An Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette with case, crown, dial and buckle made out of Carbonium®.
Carbonium® is a high-tech, high-performance, carbon fibre composite invented and produced by French company Lavoisier Composites. It is made by employing a special compression-moulding process to ‘upcycle’ the epoxy resin and carbon fibres found in prepreg tapes sourced from the aerospace industry – fibres once earmarked to form part of an airliner wing, fin or fuselage.
To make each of the Carbonium® elements for this timepiece, Lavoisier Composites creates Carbonium® blocks which are then finely shaped on a 5-axis machining centre before being matte-finished for a slightly silky surface appearance. In accordance with Romain’s wishes, Lavoisier chose a long fibre length of 50mm, in their eyes the sweet spot between mouldability, aesthetics and mechanical properties.
Indeed, the carbon fibre in Carbonium® is three times more rigid than titanium, yet twice as light. The fully assembled Carbonium® case for Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette weighs in at just 15.36g. So with the cased-up movement weighing 31.31g, it is fair to say this Carbonium® edition feels like a feather on the wrist.
What is more, at 42mm in diameter, this case is larger than the Insight Micro-Rotor case in precious metal or titanium (39.5mm). That is because the rigid and fibre-rich nature of Carbonium® means localised increases in case dimensions needed to be made in order to machine it optimally. The extra couple of millimetres only serve to increase the assertive presence of the Carbonium® which bears a striking, organic-looking, veined pattern. As you turn the watch, the veins take it in turns to reflect the light, lending the case a real vivacity.
With carbon fibre watches, often the movement is placed in a watertight cylinder within an unwaterproofed case. Romain was keen to avoid this ‘hack’ and instead wanted the skeletonised movement to be protected from humidity by the Carbonium® case itself. To that end, Lavoisier Composites performed a multi-step waterproofing process developed especially for this Romain Gauthier case, that saw resin injected into the micropores – invisible to the naked eye – on the inside of the case to prevent water from entering it.
Customisable elements include the final finishing to the bridges and mainplate (hand-polished or matte-finished bevels); colour of the steel hands, dial accents and plaquette engravings; and colour of the natural rubber strap. The example here features hand-polished bevels, Pacific blue and white dial accents, and Pacific blue steel hands and natural rubber strap.
Precious metal or titanium “Special Orders” available through Manufacture Romain Gauthier or its retailers
Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette can also be requested as a “Special Order” in a 39.5mm precious metal or natural or black DLC Grade 5 titanium case, either directly via the brand or through Romain Gauthier retailers. Two Special Order examples are featured here.
Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Limited Edition 18k Red Gold
One is in 18k red gold featuring an oven-fired black enamel dial greyed by hand-frosting with white and gilded dial accents, complemented by 18k red gold hands; mainplate and bridges bevelled, softened and smoothed by hand, then matte-finished; and gilded micro-rotor, plaquettes and balance wheel. It is fitted with a grey, natural rubber strap with 18k red gold pin buckle.
The other example is in 950 platinum featuring an oven-fired, satin-blue enamel dial made in house by Romain’s wife Ana Gauthier, with white dial accents, accompanied by 18k white gold hands; bridges and mainplate bevelled, softened, smoothed and polished by hand; and rhodium-treated micro-rotor, plaquettes and balance wheel. It is accompanied by a navy-blue alligator leather strap with 18k white gold pin buckle.
Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Limited Edition in Platinum
Elements that collectors or retailers can customise include the material of the case; final finishing to the bridges and mainplate (hand-polished or matte-finished bevels); colour of the dial and dial accents; material and colour of the hands; colour of the plaquettes and their engravings; and the material and colour of the strap.
Off-centre hours, minutes and small seconds
In-house, automatic movement
Superlatively hand-finished, skeletonised mainplate and bridges in natural titanium
22k gold bidirectional micro-rotor
Double mainspring barrel in series giving 80-hour power reserve
42mm Carbonium® case
Available exclusively through Manufacture Romain Gauthier
Dial and hands
Carbonium® hour-minute dial and small seconds dial (monobloc)
Skeletonised hour and minute hands in matte-finished steel
Solid small seconds hand in matte-finished steel
Colour of hands and dial accents customisable
Movement and finishing
Dimensions: 32.1mm x 6.8mm
Power reserve: 80 hours
Number of jewels: 33
Number of components: 206
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Components in: 22k gold micro-rotor, titanium, steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass and German silver
Choice of final finishing to the bridges and mainplate(hand-polished or matte-finished bevels)
Colour of plaquette engravings customisable
Case
Material: Carbonium®
Dimensions: 42mm x 12.9mm at highest point
Water resistance: 50m/5atm/170ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back
Carbonium® crown for manual winding and time-setting at 2 o’clock
Model: Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette – Special Orders
Features and indications
Off-centre hours, minutes and small seconds
In-house, automatic movement
Superlatively hand-finished, skeletonised mainplate and bridges in natural titanium
22k gold bidirectional micro-rotor
Double mainspring barrel in series giving 80-hour power reserve
39.5mm precious metal or natural or black DLC Grade 5 titanium case
Available through Manufacture Romain Gauthier or its retailers
Dial and hands
Oven-fired enamel dial
Skeletonised hour and minute hands
Solid small seconds hand
Finishing of the dial, material of the hands, colour of the hands and dial accents customisable
Movement and finishing
Dimensions: 32.1mm x 6.8mm
Power reserve: 80 hours
Number of jewels: 33
Number of components: 206
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Components in: 22k gold micro-rotor, titanium, steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass and German silver
Choice of final finishing to the bridges and mainplate (hand-polished or matte-finished bevels)
Colour of plaquettes and plaquette engravings customisable
Case
Material: 18k red gold, 18k white gold, 950 platinum or natural or black DLC Grade 5 titanium
Dimensions: 39.5mm x 12.9mm at highest point
Water resistance: 50m/5atm/170ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back
Crown for manual winding and time-setting at 2 o’clock
Strap and buckle
Natural rubber strap or alligator leather strap hand-stitched in Switzerland, colour customisable
Pin or deployant buckle
Buckle in material to match case, except for platinum case which is accompanied by 18k white gold buckle
The Longines spirit collection pays tribute to numerous explorers and aviators who conquered the air, land and sea relying on their Longines time instruments. The iconic Swiss watch brand has equipped a host of adventurers with their precision tool watches. Amelia Earhart, Paul-Emile Victor, Elinor Smith and Howard Hughes are foremost among those who benefitted from its expertise as they conquered air, land and sea.
The Longines Spirit collection brings this rich heritage back to life. Linking history with innovation, the new models take traditional features from pilot’s watches and combine them with contemporary lines and codes.
The over-sized crown, the flange, the pronounced step around the crystal, the font of the dial, the diamond shaped indexes and the large luminous baton hands are all elements drawn from the days of pioneering aviation. Reworked and updated, these elements blend harmoniously with the overall contemporary design. In addition, great care has been taken with the various finishes on the details, whether brushed, matt, polished or in relief.
To equip these timepieces, Longines has chosen state-of-the-art self-winding movements (L888.4 & L688.4) featuring silicon hairsprings to guarantee extreme accuracy and increased life period. The calibers are chronometer certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing institute (COSC).
Powering the three-hand with date models the caliber L888.4 is based on the self winding ETA A31.L11 movement. This 21 jewels automatic movement has a power reserve of 64 hours. It drives hour, minute & central second hands and date at 3h.
The chronograph model is equipped with the caliber L688.4 based on the ETA A08.L01 self-winding column wheel chronograph movement. It has a power reserve of 60 hours. This 27 jewels movement powers hours, minutes, small seconds, date and chronograph functions.
The Longines spirit timepieces are fitted with domed sapphire crystal glass with multi-layered anti-reflective coating on both sides. They also feature screw-in crown and engraved case back secured with six screws.
Available in three-hand/calendar models (40mm and 42mm) and a chronograph (42mm), the Longines spirit comes with a matt black, grained silver or sunray blue dial, all stamped with five applied stars. In the Longines tradition, this has always signified an improvement of the quality and reliability of the brand’s movement. Five stars is the maximum number that can be achieved.
The Longines spirit watch models are fitted with steel bracelet, or a leather strap in dark brown, light brown or blue. The three hand/calendar watch is also available in a Prestige edition with three interchangeable straps (steel, leather and NATO in brown leather).
Calibre L888.4 (ETA A31.L11)
Mechanical self-winding movement with silicon balance spring, COSC certified
11 ½ lines, 21 jewels, 25,200 vph
Power reserve: 64 hours
Chronograph (L3.820)
Caliber L688.4 (ETA A08.L01)
Mechanical self-winding movement with silicon balance spring, COSC certified, column wheel chronograph
13 ¼ lines
Number of jewels: 27 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 60 hours
Functions
Three hands with date models
Hours, minutes, seconds and date aperture at 3h
Chronograph models
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9h
Date aperture at 4:30h
Chronograph: central 60 seconds hand, 30-minutes counter at 3h and 12 hour counter at 6h
Case
Round case
Material: stainless steel
Diameter: 40mm or 42mm
Sapphire domed glass with multilayered anti-reflective coating on both sides
Screw in crown
Stainless case-back with 6 screws
Water resistance: 10 atm/100 meters
Hands
Silvered sand blasted, Super-LumiNova
Black sandblasted, Super-LumiNova
Bracelet/straps
Standard version
Dark brown, light brow of blue leather strap with buckle
Stainless steel bracelet, triple safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism
Prestige edition
3 bracelet/straps with interchangeable system
– Stainless steel bracelet, double safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism
– Dark brown, light brown or blue leather strap with buckle
– NATO strap with buckle
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo announced the date of their upcoming Geneva watch auction. Taking place at Hôtel La Réserve, Geneva on June 27 and 28, 2020, the sale will feature over 200 lots.
The major highlights of this auction include a Patek Philippe pocket watch reference 605 HU from 1950 and four extraordinary Patek Philippe wristwatches from the private collection of Mr. Jean-Claude Biver, the Non-Executive President of LVMH Group Watch Division.
The Geneva Watch Auction XI is this year’s first live watch auction from Phillips. The auction will offer an incredible selection of fine collectible timepieces hailing from the prestigious Maisons like Patek Philippe and Rolex, as well as from master independent watchmakers such as F.P. Journe or Kari Voutilainen.
Patek Philippe Pocket Watch, Reference 605 HU in Pink Gold, circa 1950
Patek Philippe, Reference 605 HU from 1950 in pink gold, Estimate: CHF 250,000-500,000 (Image courtesy: Phillips)
One of Patek Philippe’s signature complications, this pocket watch Reference 605 HU from 1950 features a cloisonné enamel dial representing Eurasia and Africa. Previously unknown to the collecting community and appearing for the first time publicly, this watch is the only one known in pink gold featuring this type of dial. It is being offered by the family of the original owner.
Lots from Mr. Jean-Claude Biver’s Private Collection
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo also presents following four Patek Philippe wristwatches from the Private Collection of Industry Veteran Jean-Claude Biver.
Jean-Claude Biver Patek Philippe Collection 1518, 2499, 1579 and 96HU (Image courtesy: Phillips)
1. Patek Philippe Ref 96HU worldtime, circa 1937
Patek Philippe presented its first world time wristwatch created in series in 1939 under reference 1415, but it had created a few pre-series and prototype versions the years prior.
Patek Philippe Ref 96HU worldtime, circa 1937 (Image courtesy: Phillips)
The present reference 96 is in fact one of these ultra-rare pre-series prototypes of which only two are known, made in 1937 to most probably test the market, making it not only a historically significant timepiece but also one of the rarest world time models ever made by Patek Philippe. Unknown to the market, it first appeared in 2011 when it was purchased by Mr. Biver. The other example is in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. Estimate CHF 300,000 – 600,000
2. Patek Philippe Reference 1518 in pink gold, circa 1948
A monumental model, reference 1518 was the first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch ever produced in series when it was introduced in 1941. According to research, only 281 examples were manufactured until the reference ceased production with a majority made in yellow gold. Pink gold reference 1518s were most often fitted with a silvered dial.
Patek Philippe Reference 1518 in pink gold, circa 1948 (Image courtesy: Phillips)
It was only on very rare occasions that they were fitted with pink dials. Only 13 examples of reference 1518 are known with a pink dial, making it one of the most exclusive complicated Patek Philippe wristwatches for a collector to acquire. The present watch appears on the market only for the second time, Mr Biver being the second owner since new. Estimate CHF 1,200,000 – 2,400,000
3. Patek Philippe Reference 2499 second series, circa 1957
Launched in 1951, the reference 2499 was the direct successor of the reference 1518 and came with more sporty round pushers and a larger 37.5mm case. The second series like the present watch, was offered either with Arabic numerals or applied batons as well as with a tachymeter scale.
Patek Philippe Reference 2499 second series, circa 1957 (Image courtesy: Phillips)
The second series reference 2499 is so rare that very few examples have graced the international auction market, and in fact only 20 examples in yellow gold with applied batons, like the present example, are known. Estimate CHF 1,000,000 – 2,000,000
4. Patek Philippe Platinum Reference 1579, circa 1946
This incredibly attractive and well-preserved reference 1579 is one of only three vintage Patek Philippe chronographs cased in platinum. It is unknown why Patek Philippe decided to use platinum for this reference and only for three watches, but it is interesting to note that the three watches have consecutive serial numbers and different dials, making each piece unique.
Patek Philippe Platinum Reference 1579, circa 1946 (Image courtesy: Phillips)
The present watch is the last of the three made and differentiates itself from the other two with its scale and markers in blue, giving the watch an incredibly vivid modernist appeal. Estimate CHF 800,000 – 1,600,000.
Other Important Timepieces
Patek Philippe
A highlight of this sale is a well-preserved Patek Philippe reference 1579 chronograph in yellow gold made in 1955. This timepiece was retailed by famed Swiss retailer Gübelin. It is only the 5th example signed by Gübelin to grace the market.
Patek Philippe, Reference 1579 in yellow gold, Estimate: CHF60,000-100,000 (Image courtesy: Phillips)
Another attraction is a Patek Philippe reference 1518 in yellow gold from the family of the original owner from 1944. This reference was launched in 1941 and was the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph made in series.
Patek Philippe, Reference 1518 in yellow gold, Estimate: CHF200,000-400,000 (Image courtesy: Phillips)
The sale also offers an ultra-rare white gold Patek Philippe perpetual calendar reference 3448 from 1970, coming from the family of the original owner. This example is one of only 30 known white gold reference 3448s and the third featuring calendar discs in German.
Patek Philippe perpetual calendar reference 3448 white gold (Image courtesy: Phillips)
Rolex
The Geneva Watch Auction XI presents a wide selection of Rolex models, some of which are rarely seen on the market. These include: A reference 5513 circa 1963 in excellent condition featuring an ultra-rare “Explorer dial” or “3-6-9 dial”.
Rolex Reference 5513 (Image courtesy: Phillips)
While the majority of Submariners were fitted with regular round hour markers, the present watch bears this extremely rare dial configuration, reminiscent of the dials also found on Rolex’s iconic “Big Crown” reference 6200.
Rolex, Reference 6200 Big Crown, Estimate: CHF250,000-500,000 (Image courtesy: Phillips)
Recently found in an antique shop in Alexandria, a Rolex Submariner “Big Crown” reference 6200 is also offered. Finally, Phillips is also offering one of the best-preserved examples of Rolex’s ultra-elusive reference 6232 in pink gold, from 1958. It is one of only twelve watches in existence, originally destined for the French market.
The Geneva Watch Auction XI offers two exceptional timepieces created by F.P. Journe: Tourbillon Souverain “Souscription” and Resonance “Souscription”.
F.P. Journe’s original Tourbillon Souverain “Souscription” is a historically important watch that enabled the Founder of the firm, Mr. François-Paul Journe, to set up his company. When Journe decided to launch his second iconic model, the Resonance, he offered the latter to the clients having already bought the tourbillon, here again he used a subscription system.
The Resonance “Souscription” is a model rarely seen at auctions. The present example comes in a unique livery specially commissioned by Lorenz Baümer: platinum/pink gold case with white gold dial.
Harry Winston/ Vianney Halter
Another exceptional highlight is the Opus 3 made for Harry Winston by Vianney Halter, featuring a unique way of reading time. This example is number one from 25 pieces made in platinum.
Harry Winston Opus 3 by Vianney Halter (Image courtesy: Phillips)
Kari Voutilainen
Also topping the Independents’ Atelier section is a unique GMT model with power reserve hiding a beautifully engraved and enameled caseback featuring Triton, and a mermaid by Kari Voutilainen.
Some of the finest watches in terms of quality and condition will also be offered, including elegant dress, sports and complicated watches by prestigious collectors’ brands such as Patek Philippe and Rolex, A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, IWC, Longines and Breitling, to name only a few.
The selection of leading highlights will be available to the public during the pre-sale exhibitions opening in Asia and Europe. Following a preview in Hong Kong from May 20 to 27, highlights will be on display in Geneva from June 24 to 28, 2020.
Auction details
Dates
The Geneva Watch Auction XI, Part I: 27 June 2020, 5pm
The Geneva Watch Auction XI, Part II: 28 June 2020, 5pm
Auction Viewing
Asia: 20 – 27 May, Location: 14/F St. George’s Building, 2 Ice House Street, Central Hong Kong
The Maestro.97 Tourbillon & Maestro.99 Tourbillon models are two horological masterpieces from the Gerald Charles Maestro Collection, which pays tribute to the brand’s founder, Mr Gerald Charles Genta.
Gerald Charles Maestro.97 Tourbillon
This white gold watch incorporates an exceptional mechanical manual-wound tourbillon movement, which is skeletonised and hand-finished.
The Maestro.97 Skeleton Tourbillon Mustaches watch proudly displays a rare to find and polished stainless steel tourbillon bridge with a unique shaped inspired by the Mustaches of Mr. Gerald Charles Genta.
The convexity at 6 o’clock of the case offers a dedicated space for the one-minute Tourbillon. This perfectly integrates mechanics and aesthetics. The hand-finished skeleton movement is visible in its full depth, through sapphire crystals, from all angles.
Capable to store a power reserve up to 72 hours, the two large barrels of this manual wound movement are perfectly integrated with the see-through bridges.
The Gerald Charles Maestro.97 tourbillon watch was produced in a limited edition of 25 pieces only. It is now preserved in the Maison’s private collection.
Movement
GC35 Manual-winding “Mustache bridge” Tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 v/h precision
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Functions
Hours, Minutes, One-minute Tourbillon
Case
Material: White Gold 18K
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 11.8 mm
Back: Sapphire Crystal open-work
Crystal: Sapphire no glare
Water resistance: 30 meters
Dial
“Squelette” open-work
Strap
Brown Crocodile skin strap with folding clasp in white-gold
Price
US$157’614
Gerald Charles Maestro.99 Tourbillon
The Maestro.99 Tourbillon watch comes in an innovatively designed squared carré case in pure Palladium. Measuring 42mm diameter, the watch case is shaped as an asymmetric polygon with eight cut edges coins coupés and a hemispheric convexity at 6 o’ clock.
This watch houses a manual-wound skeleton movement incorporating two iconic complications: Tourbillon Chronograph.
The Gerald Charles Maestro.99 Squelette Tourbillon Chronograph perfectly integrates mechanics and aesthetics. The half-moon shape at 6 o’ clock of the watch case provides a dedicated space for the flying Tourbillon.
The tourbillon ball is suspended between two sapphire crystals without any bearing bridge. The movement offers a power reserve up to 120 hours. The Gerald Charles Maestro.99 was produced in a limited edition of 12 pieces only. It is now preserved in the Maison’s private collection.
Movement
GCM3 Manual-winding Chrono Tourbillon
Suspended Tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 v/h precision
Power reserve: 120 hours
Functions
Hours, Minutes, Chronograph, Power Reserve
Case
Material: Palladium
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 11.8mm
Crystal: Sapphire no glare
Case-back: Sapphire Crystal open-work
Water resistance: 30 meters
Dial
“Squelette” open-work
Strap
Dark blue crocodile skin strap with folding clasp in white-gold
The 19Thirty collection was inspired by the last pocket watches crafted by the Maison BOVET, before the advent of the wristwatch era. Its balance is inherited from the stylistic details of the “easel” chronometer which was patented in 1930 and symbolizes the shift towards wristwatches.
The 19Thirty collection was presented in 2015 exclusively in steel. The movement was specially developed for this collection, and the quality of its execution and finishes meets the same criteria of the Grandes Complications.
It offers seven days of power reserve with only a single barrel. Mr. Raffy, the owner of BOVET 1822, wanted this collection to offer two different cases including the iconic Fleurier case with its bow and crown that stand out with their 12:00 position.
The stir the collection created and the enthusiasm among collectors led Mr. Raffy to offer the19Thirty in a red gold case that can be bespoke to the collector’s taste.
This year, the collection features the Maison’s dedication to the decorative arts by offering a luxurious “Fleurisanne” engraving that embraces the hour and minute dial, as well as the second counter which form an eight: a symbol of luck and prosperity for the wearer.
For an added elegance, the « Fleurisanne » engraving is lacquered according to the color of the dial chosen by the collector.
Bovet’s extraordinary Engineering Brilliance is featured in the ergonomics of the 19Thirty collection, which are presented in a case 9mm thick and 42mm across.
The beautiful elements of the dial and the case unite with impeccable timekeeping, reliability and seven day power reserve to create a timeless, classic and exceptional timepiece that can be worn every day and turn every second into a moment of grace.
Technical details
Model: Fleurier 19Thirty
References
NTS0020, blue
NTS0019, black
Case
Type: Fleurier
Diameter: 42 mm
Material: stainless steel
Water resistance: 30 m
Movement
Caliber 11BM04
Type: Hand-wound movement
Diameter: 15 ¾ ’’’
Frequency: 21’600 v/h
Power reserve: 7 days
Functions
Hours, minutes, sub-seconds, power reserve indicator
Dial
Blue or black circular brushed dials with Roman numerals
Hand-engraved, with lacquered “Fleurisanne” motif
The CIGA Design Z-Series Mechanical Titanium Watch Indiegogo crowd-funding campaign has already raised $998,553 USD from 4,237 backers at the time of publishing this page. Now only two days left for finishing the campaign. Backers can order a mechanical skeleton watch with special price starting from USD 249. Estimate delivery in March 2020. Specifications: Grade 2 Titanium case, skeletonised Seagull AAA automatic self-winding, power reserve of 40 hours, water-resistant to 3 ATM, sapphire crystal glass, Silicone or Leather strap. Please visit the campaign page at https://ciga-design-z-series.kckb.st/26aee4d2
Created In partnership between Bucherer and Piaget, this rose gold watch for women was launched on September 9, 2019. A new member of the Exclusive Bucherer Blue Collection, the rose-gold Piaget Possession Bucherer BLUE with blue alligator-leather strap is an inspirational luxury watch for the discerning woman.
The Bucherer BLUE collection includes an exclusive selection of finest Swiss timepieces – available exclusively from Bucherer. For the past three years, Bucherer has been reinterpreting iconic timepieces.
The rose-gold Piaget Possession Bucherer BLUE represents the third partnership between the two brands. Bucherer’s close partnership with Piaget was first established back in 1979.
This rose-gold watch has a 34mm diameter case that houses an in-house quartz movement. This dazzling ladies timepiece features a rotating rose-gold bezel, lavishly set with 45 diamonds, and a single gorgeous sapphire.
Its mother-of-pearl dial boasts 11 blue sapphire hour markers. You can discover Piaget name at 3 o’clock instead of sapphire marker. Finally, the vibrant blue of the alligator-leather strap provides a bold, powerful contrast.
The rose-gold Piaget Possession Bucherer BLUE is available exclusively from Bucherer.
Technicaldetails
Piaget 56P in-house quartz movement; case in rose gold: 34 mm, mother-of-pearl dial set with 11 blue sapphires; case set with 45 diamonds and one blue sapphire; interchangeable blue and white alligator-leather straps; total carat weight: 45 diamonds at ca. 1.409 ct., 12 sapphires at ca. 0.177 ct.
Created in collaboration with online horology portal HODINKEE, the Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Limited Edition pays tribute to the Minerva heritage. This vintage special edition combines a stainless steel case, a distinctive dial and the Manufacture Chronograph MB M13.21, all of which are inspired by the historical Minerva Chronograph Caliber 13.20 of 36 mm from the 1930s.
The inspiration for this new timepiece has been centred on Minerva chronographs from the 1930s and in particular the 36 mm model featuring a black dial with beige elements and equipped with the iconic chronograph caliber 13.20.
This 13-lines movement was the first integrated chronograph produced by the manufacture in 1920 and featured a very classical and harmonious horizontal clutch with column wheel construction. It is also important to note that it is adorned, as per all Minerva chronographs since the beginning of the 20th century, with the very recognizable V-shaped chronograph bridge (patented in 1912).
Each purchase of this special timepiece will include an invitation from HODINKEE to experience the Montblanc manufacture and visit the heart of Swiss watchmaking country. The trip offers an inside look at the Montblanc manufacture in Villeret, the historic home of Minerva, and Le Locle giving the purchaser an opportunity to see the Montblanc museum, the caliber M13.21 being created and assembled, and the strict quality-control tests that each watch undergoes before it leaves the manufacturer.
Montblanc Villeret’s watchmaking tradition began in 1858 when Charles-Yvan Robert founded the Minerva Manufacture in the Saint-Imier valley. The Manufacture progressively gained international recognition for its precision timepieces, becoming a leading specialist in the fabrication of professional watches and stopwatches.
Minerva produced a number of movements equipped with chronograph functions such as the legendary caliber 19.09 (19 lines / launched in 1909), which was the first to feature the recognizable V-shaped chronograph bridge. Several patents for precision timers were filed during this period, attesting to the Manufacture’s innovative spirit.
In the 1920s, Minerva invented one of the first manually-wound monopusher chronographs specially developed for wristwatches, marking a new chapter in the Manufacture’s history. In addition to the caliber 13.20, the caliber 17.29 was produced during the 1930s and was one of the slimmest monopusher chronographs of the time, measuring a mere 5.6 mm in height.
These developments symbolize the level of mastery and innovation reached by Minerva over the years and consolidate its reputation in the manufacture of monopusher chronographs with various case sizes and complications. Upholding the Minerva legacy and paying tribute to more than 160 years of fine watchmaking history, these horological achievements have become the inspiration for the development of the new Montblanc 1858 timepieces.
Paying tribute to the original wristwatch and professional aesthetic, special attention has been paid to the dial to offer a distinctive vintage-looking timepiece. This limited edition of 25 pieces features a black lacquered dial paired with a contrasting light-beige-colored tachymeter scale on its outer part, in keeping with the historical chronograph. This color scheme accentuates the vintage inspiration while also providing excellent readability and performance. Staying true to the original timepiece, the dial has two counters, one for the small seconds at nine o’clock and a chronograph 30-minute counter at three o’clock. These two counters are slightly lower than the dial, providing greater contrast.
This special edition also highlights the design codes taken from the 1930’s Minerva chronograph, including the original shape of the hands with their cloisonné decoration filled with Super-LumiNova®, luminescent Arabic numerals, and the original Montblanc logo from the time, with its historical font and emblem of the Mont Blanc Mountain in the centre.
The caliber of the timepiece also pays tribute to the historical Minerva chronograph equipped with the caliber 13.20. In the 1920s, the Manufacture invented one of the first manually-wound monopusher chronographs specially developed for wristwatches, marking a new chapter in the Manufacture’s history.
The caliber MB M13.21 is the direct heir of the 13.20, and, like its predecessor, features the same iconic V-shape bridge, column wheel, horizontal clutch coupling and a large balance wheel with 18 screws beating at the traditional frequency of 2.5 hz / 18,000 A/H. Moreover, the M13.21 brings the 13.20 lineage to a high level of high watchmaking hand-finishing and manufacture mastery.
The Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret is a very rare place that is considered to be a true Manufacture. It possesses the know-how to produce a movement from A to Z, making all the main components in-house, such as the plates and bridges in German silver (Maillechort), but it also manufactures the full regulating organ, including the hairspring.
The caliber MB M13.21 is particularly beautiful thanks to its handcrafted traditional finishings such as Côtes de Genève, inner angles, circular graining and bevelling – as well as its fine details such as the Minerva arrow on the chronograph “blocker” and the chronograph bridge shaped in the form of a “V”, whose design was protected in 1912.
An engraving stating “Limited Edition for Hodinkee” can be found on the case back and a sapphire crystal reveals the beauty of the Montblanc Manufacture Monopusher Chronograph Caliber MB M13.21 beneath.
Completing the overall design is a matching brown Sfumato alligator strap that has been hand-crafted by the Richemont Pelletteria in Florence or with a special HODINKEE Bedford one in Olive Green.
This special edition timepiece is water resistant to 100 meters and is certified by the Montblanc Laboratory Test 500.
The Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Limited Edition for HODINKEE is produced in a limited run of 25 pieces and available exclusively in the HODINKEE Shop and select Montblanc boutiques.
Technical details
Model: Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Limited Edition for HODINKEE
Ident. 123749
Movement
MB M13.21
Type of movement: Manually wound monopusher chronograph with tachymeter scale Chronograph Monopusher with column-wheel and horizontal coupling
Dimensions: Diameter = 29.50 mm; height = 6.40 mm
Number of components: 239
Number of rubies: 22
Power reserve: Approx. 55 hours
Balance: Screw balance, diameter = 11.40 mm; moment of inertia = 26 mgcm²
Frequency: 18,000 A/h (2.5 Hz)
Hairspring: With Phillips terminal curve
Plate: Rhodium-coated German silver with circular graining on both sides, hand-chamfered edges
Bridges: Rhodium-coated German silver with “Côtes de Genève”, circular graining on both sides, hand-chamfered edges
Going-train: Gold-coated, circular grained, chamfered, diamond hubs on both sides
Displays
Hours and minutes from the centre, small seconds at 9 o’clock,
Chronograph’s elapsed-second hand from the dial’s centre
30-elapsed minute-counter at 3 o’clock, tachymeter scale
Water resistance 100 metres
Habillage
Case
Stainless steel with polished and satin finishings
Crystal: Scratch-resistant, domed sapphire glass box with antireflective coating
Back: Sapphire crystal / special engraving
Case dimensions: Diameter = 40 mm; height = 12.15 mm
Waterproofness: 10 bar (100 m)
Crown: Stainless steel fluted with Montblanc emblem in relief
Pusher: Monopusher chronograph at 2 o’clock
Dial
Black lacquered, luminescent Arabic indexes, rhodium-coated luminescent hour- and minute-hands, white chronograph and second hands, light beige tachymeter scale base 1000 on the external part of the dial, counters with “azuré” finishing, historical Montblanc logo at 12 o’clock
Strap
Brown Sfumato alligator leather crafted by the Richemont Pelletteria in Florence, Italy or with HODINKEE Bedford strap in Olive Green with a stainless steel pin buckle
Limited Edition
25 pieces
Certification
Certified by the Montblanc Laboratory Test 500
Chronoswiss is a Swiss watch brand based in Lucerne in Switzerland.
Founded in 1983 by Gerd-R. Lang, Chronoswiss began its horological adventure in Munich in Germany by introducing mechanical wristwatches and pocket-watches produced in Switzerland.
Gerd-Rüdiger Lang began his career at a renowned chronograph manufacturer (Heuer) in Switzerland in 1964. He arrived in Munich to serve as the authorized representative of the manufacturer’s German subsidiary in 1974.
When the “Quartz Crisis” put a forced end to this business in 1981, the man who had chosen Munich to be his new home continued to operate a repair service as a freelancer. He also repaired mechanical timepieces for friends and acquaintances. Meanwhile, an idea was gestating in his mind: he longed to create a collection of his own watches, which he would christen “Chronoswiss.”
In the hard times of the Swiss watch industry Gerd-R. Lang bought surplus stocks of watches and mechanical movements because he loved the traditional art of watchmaking.
In 1983, he turned his passion into a profession and founded the Chronoswiss Company in Munich. At the beginning, the company produced watches in series by using modern calibres and manufacturing limited specialities whose production has been suspended for many years.
In 1987, the company launched Régulateur hand-wound wristwatch, their first serially manufactured wristwatch with a regulator-type dial. In 1990, Chronoswiss started manufacturing of its own models in Munich and introduced the Régulateur Automatique watch with its exclusive manufacture Chronoswiss C.122 movement.
In 2002, Chronoswiss established a subsidiary in Switzerland to handle production and logistics. In 2006, the company moved into a new manufacture building in Karlsfeld in the outskirts of Munich for uniting development, production, sales, marketing and shipping under one roof.
Since February 2012, Chronoswiss has been under the ownership of Ebstein family. The brand celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2013 by launching the Régulateur 30 limited edition collection. In June 2014, Chronoswiss moved into its new HQs located in Lucerne, Switzerland.
Chronology
1958-1961: Gerd-R. Lang learns the watchmaker’s metier at Jauns watch shop in his hometown of Braunschweig.
1962-1963: Apprenticeship at the Gross firm in Burg/Fehmarn.
1964-1979: Heuer stopwatch and chronograph factory in Biel, Switzerland.
1980: Attends the master school in Würzburg and graduates with the title of “Master Watchmaker.”
1981: Founds a special workshop for chronographs in Munich.
1982: Introduces the world’s first mechanical chronograph with moon phase display and mineral crystal back under the “Chronoswiss” name. This presages the renaissance of mechanical timepieces.
1983: Gerd-R. Lang founds Chronoswiss watch factory in and establishes a worldwide distribution structure.
1984: The name “Chronoswiss” is registered as a protected trademark.
1985: First Chronoswiss catalogue with mechanical wristwatches and pocket-watches produced in Switzerland. Distribution of the A. Rochat and Kelek brands. First appearance at Inhorgenta trade fair in Munich.
1987: World premiere of the “Régulateur” hand-wound wristwatch – the first serially manufactured wristwatch with a regulator-type dial. The typical Chronoswiss case is born. Its distinguishing characteristics include a screwed and channeled bezel, an onion-shaped crown and screwed strap lugs.
1988: The second catalogue features Chronoswiss’ first own models – “Régulateur” and “Pacific.” First appearance at the worldwide trade fair for watches and jewelry in Basel.
1990: World premiere of the “Régulateur Automatique” with its exclusive manufacture Chronoswiss C.122 movement. Beginning of the exclusive manufacture of the firm’s own models in Munich.
1991: World premiere of the “Kairos Chronograph” – the first automatic chronograph with off-center display of the hours and minutes.
1992: World premiere of the split-second chronograph “Rattrapante” (Swiss patent number 682201-0). Author of the specialized book “Chronograph – Wristwatches, Lang/Meis.” The third catalogue (“Chronoswiss – Faszination der Mechanik”) is published. It exclusively features the firm’s own models.
1993: Presentation of the “Cabrio” reversible wristwatch (European patent number 0562522). Presentation of the first serially produced white enamel dials of recent years in the “Orea” model.
1994: Presentation of the “Grand Régulateur,” (international patenting number 030021). 1st prize from the Italian watch magazine “Orologi”, Vicenza, in the category of “young successful enterprises.”
1995: World premiere of the “Opus” – the first serially produced, automatic, skeletonized chronograph. Launching of the “Lunar Chronograph”
1996: World premiere of the “Delphis” and its registration for a Swiss patent – the first wristwatch that combines a unique system of analogue, digital and retrograde time displays. First prize and award of “Watch of the Year” title from Armbanduhren magazine, Heel publishers, for the “Opus” skeletonized chronograph.1st prize for Thomas Schnelle as the national and federal winner of apprentices awarded by the Central Association of the German Watchmaker Craft.
1997: Chronoswiss is the official timekeeper for the STW Cup (Super Touring Car Cup). Third prize and award of the “Watch of the Year” title from Armbanduhren magazine, Heel publishers, for the “Delphis” model.
1998: World premiere of the “Pathos” – the first skeletonized, self-winding, split-second chronograph (Swiss patent number 682201-0).First prize and award of the “Golden Balance” title from Uhrenmagazin for the “Delphis” model. First prize and award of “Watch of the Year” title from World Photo Press magazine in Japan for the “Opus” model. Finalist Award, The New York Festival for the “Personality” advertising campaign. Founding of the first own Chronoswiss subsidiary in Bellport, Long Island, USA.
1999: First prize and award of the “Innovation Prize” from Chronos magazine for the “Pathos” model.
2000: First prize and award of the “Golden Balance / International Watch Award” from Uhren magazine for the “Tora Chronograph” model. “Signs of the times – Tick-Talk: A Timely Book” is published in German as Chronoswiss’ fourth catalogue.
2001: World premiere of the “Chronoscope” – the first automatic chronograph with Regulator-dial. An exclusive homage to the pioneers of the Chronograph.
2002: Third price and award of the title “Golden Balance/ International Watch Award” by watch magazine “Uhrenmagazin”, Ebner publishers for the “Opus” model. Gerd-R. Lang wins the Hungaria Classic 2002 with co-driver András Noszvai in the Jaguar XK 120 “C-Type”. Chronoswiss establishes a subsidiary in Switzerland. The Chrono SA subsidiary located in Niedau close to Biel is responsible for production and logistics.
2003: Presentation of the “Répetition à Quarts” at the Jewelry and Watch Trade Show in Basel, that tells the time exactly to the 15 minutes by the push of the pusher via a striking mechanism. First prize “Watch of the Year” title from Armbanduhren magazine, Heel publishers, for the “Chronoscope” model as well as award of the “Watch of the Year” by Horologes Magazine, Netherlands. Second prize and award of the “Golden Balance / International Watch Award” from Uhren Magazin for the “Delphis” model.
2004: Presentation of the “Régulateur à Tourbillon Squelette” at the Jewelry and Watch Trade Show in Basel, the first skeleton and hand-engrave Tourbillon with regulator dial, limited edition in 200 pieces.
2005: Third prize and award of the “Golden Balance / International Watch Award” from Uhren Magazin for the “Répétition à quarts” model. 4th place “Golden Balance” for the model “Chronoscope” and 8th place for the model “Orea handwinding”. The first Chronoswiss Classics takes place first time in September 2005 at Lake Starnberg. Presentation of the “Digiteur” (limited edition) and “Perpetual Calendar” at the Jewelry and Watch Trade Show in Basel. September 23, 2005 cornerstone was laid for the new production facility with the entire Chronoswiss staff and all 40 international distribution partners.
2006: Debut of the “Grand Régulateur”, “Timemaster Chronograph Date” and “Perpetual Calendar” at the watch and jewelry fair in Basel. 2nd place “Watch of the Year 2006” for “Digiteur” by the readers of Armbanduhren special-interest magazine + Welt am Sonntag.4th place “Golden Balance/International Watch Award” by Uhrenmagazin, Ebner Publishers for the “Digiteur” model and 6th place for the “Régulateur” model. 1st place “Advertisement of the Month” in Uhrenmagazin special-interest magazine for the “Take Your Time” motif in June and July/August and for the “Time is a Present” motif in December, and 2nd place “Advertisement of the Month” for the “Time in Flow” motif in the April issue. Diner’s Club Magazine confers its “Visionary of the Year” award on Gerd-R. Lang. Move into Bavaria’s first wristwatch factory in December.
2007: 1st place “Golden Balance/International Watch Award” by Uhrenmagazin, Ebner Publishers and Focus Online for the “Chronoscope” model, 5th place for the “Timemaster Day + Night” model, 8th place for the “Perpetual Calendar” model and 5th place for the “Répétition à Quarts” model.
2008: 3rd place “Golden Balance/International Watch Award” by Uhrenmagazin, Ebner Publishers and Focus Online for the “Grand Régulateur”, 3rd place for the “Répétition à Quarts”, 4th place for the “Perpetual Calendar” and 5th place for the “Imperia”.
2012: The Swiss entrepreneurial family Ebstein (Oliver Ebstein and his wife Eva Maria) acquires the assets of Chronoswiss from founder Gerd-Rüdiger Lang. Oliver Ebstein will be the new CEO. Founder Gerd-Rüdiger Lang will continue to support the company also in the future.
2013: Chronoswiss celebrates its thirtieth anniversary and creates a new limited edition of the Régulateur – the Régulateur 30. Chronoswiss presents Artist’s Collection, a watch line characterized by craftsmanship that is created exclusively in the brand’s own workshop in Lucerne.
Swiss watch brand Delma presents Cayman, a diving watch inspired by the designs of 1970s. Named after Cayman Islands, a popular water sports and scuba diving destination in the heart of the Caribbean Sea, this new dive watch is available in automatic and quartz versions.
The bright colors of DELMA’s new Cayman are directly inspired by these seascapes where deep blue of the sea is elegantly combined with bright red reefs and the lustrous silver sparkle of light meeting the water.
The classic vintage style of the Cayman pays tribute to the divers’ watches Delma produced in the 1970s, with its quintessential diver bezel and sunray-brushed dial with date indicator at 3 o’clock. Its imposing crown and luxurious Milanese steel bracelet give it a decidedly distinguished look.
The stylish quartz Cayman is water resistant to 200m with a DELMA engraved screwed case back. The luxurious automatic model is water resistant to 500m and reveals the decorated movement and the DELMA customized rotor through a transparent case back. The watch is equipped with a unidirectional bezel and a clearly legible dial with luminescent hands and indexes.
Technical details
Model: DELMA Cayman
Case & Dial
The Cayman features sleek 42mm stainless steel case in diameter with a domed sapphire crystal and is 13.3 mm thick in automatic, 11 mm in quartz resp.The elegant sunray-brushed dial is available in black, blue or silver with easy-to-read luminescent indexes and hands.
Water-resistance: Quartz version water resistant to 200 meters / 660 ft. Automatic version water resistant to 500m / 1650ft
Movement
Available in automatic (ETA 2824) and quartz version (ETA F06.111) with central hour, minute and seconds hand and date at 3 o’clock
The transparent case back of the automatic version showcases the decorated movement and the DELMA custom rotor
Bezel
The unidirectional rotating bezel with luminous marker of the Cayman is easy to handle. It offers accurate reading of diving times. The Cayman is available with a black, blue or red aluminum diver bezel
Bracelet
Genuine leather strap with stainless steel buckle or Milanese steel bracelet with folding clasp
Box
Blue Delma designed leather box
Retail price
Automatic version on leather strap (CHF 990.-)
Automatic version on Milanese mesh steel bracelet (CHF 1150.-)
Quartz version on leather strap (CHF 550.-)
Quartz version on Milanese mesh steel strap (CHF 700.-)
The latest addition to the Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection has a deep green dial, a colour that recalls the greenly-blue hues of the world’s oceans and beautifully complements the bronze outer ring of the watch’s bezel.
As with sister watches in the same family, this 42mm version of the Divers Sixty-Five has a vintage look but comes with all the advances of contemporary watchmaking.
It has a stainless steel case, a uni-directional rotating diver’s bezel, a Swiss Made automatic mechanical movement, hands and indexes coated in light old radium Super-LumiNova, and a hard-wearing brown leather strap.
Case
Material: Multi-piece stainless steel and bronze case
Size: 40.00 mm, 1.575 inches
Top Glass: Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside
Case back: Stainless steel, special engravings, screwed
Operating Devices: Stainless steel screw-in security crown
Water Resistance: 10 bar/100 m
Interhorn Width: 21 mm
Movement
Number Oris 733, base SW 200-1
Dimensions: Ø 25.60 mm, 11 1/2’’’
Winding: Automatic winding, with red rotor
Power-Reserve: 38 hours
Vibrations: 4 Hz (28’800 A/h)
Jewels: 26
Functions
Centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds, date window, instantaneous date, date corrector, fine timing device and stop-second
Dial
Deep green, curved dial with applied rose gold PVD plated indices. Rose gold PVD plated hour, minute and seconds hands dial
Luminous Material: Indices and hands filled with SuperLumiNova® Light Old Radium
Indices: Applied
Strap/Bracelet
Brown leather strap or stainless steel bracelet with stainless steel buckle
Swiss luxury watch brand Baume & Mercier presented eight Classima Lady steel watches at SIHH 2019. With new dials and sizes, and with quartz and automatic movements, the collection has been designed to offer every woman her ideal timepiece. Two jewelled models with mother-of-pearl dial and diamond-set case are now being added to enhance the collection.
The Classima Lady line is defined by its elegant simplicity. This year, 27 mm and 34 mm diameter versions are joining the existing 31 mm models. Each one features the classic hours and minutes functions as well as a date display at 3 o’clock on the dial. All are mounted on a five-row stainless steel bracelet featuring a triple folding clasp with security push-pieces.
Automatic Classima Lady
Attention to detail in the design gives each timepiece a unique identity. The automatic watches are instantly recognisable with their Roman numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock. They also feature a transparent sapphire case back through which the movement can be admired. There are beautifully feminine models with silver-plated dial and refined circular-grained minute track, as well as models with mother-of-pearl dial and diamond hour-markers.
Diamond-Set Classima Lady
Capturing the essence of femininity, this timepiece showcases a radiant dial in white mother-of pearl enhanced by a diamond-set bezel. The Diamond-Set Classima Lady comes in a 31 mm case and is available in a quartz or automatic version. The automatic model features an elegant minute track that complements the dial.
References
Classima 27 mm white quartz: 10489
Classima 27 mm diamond-set mother-of-pearl quartz: 10490
Classima 27 mm silver-plated automatic: 10492
Classima 27 mm diamond-set mother-of-pearl automatic: 10493
Classima 31mm mother-of-pearl quartz with diamond-set bezel: 10478
Classima 31mm mother-of-pearl automatic with diamond-set bezel: 10479
Classima 34 mm silver-plated automatic: 10495
Classima 34 mm diamond-set mother-of-pearl automatic: 10496
Technical details
Model: Classima 27 Mm White Quartz, Reference: M0A10489
Baume et Mercier Classima M0A10489
Movement
Quartz (Ronda 784)
Functions: H/M, date
Case
Round
Diameter: 27 mm
Thickness: 7 mm
Polished stainless steel
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
Full case back
Water-resistance: 5 ATM (approx. 50m)
Model: Classima 27 Mm Diamond-Set Mother-Of-Pearl Quartz, Reference: M0A10490
Baume et Mercier Classima M0A10490
Movement
Quartz (Ronda 784)
Functions: H/M, date
Case
Round
Diameter: 27 mm
Thickness: 7 mm
Polished stainless steel
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
Full case back
Water-resistance: 5 ATM (approx. 50m)
Dial
Mother-of-pearl dial
Roman numerals and diamond-set indexes (9 brilliant cut diamonds, 0.02 ct, Top Wesselton, VS quality)
Model: Classima 27 mm Silver-Plated Automatic, Reference: M0A10492
Baume et Mercier Classima M0A10492
Movement
Automatic (ETA 2671)
Jewels: 21
Power reserve: 38 hours
Frequency: 4Hz (28’800 vph)
Functions: H/M/S, date
Case
Round
Diameter: 27 mm
Thickness: 9 mm
Polished stainless steel
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistance: 5 ATM (approx. 50m)
Model: Classima 27 mm Diamond-Set Mother-Of-Pearl Automatic, Reference: M0A10493
Baume et Mercier Classima M0A10493
Movement
Automatic (ETA 2671)
Jewels: 21
Power reserve: 38 hours
Frequency: 4Hz (28’800 vph)
Functions: H/M/S, date
Case
Round
Diameter: 27 mm
Thickness: 9 mm
Polished stainless steel
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistance: 5 ATM (approx. 50m)
Dial
Mother-of-pearl
Roman numerals and diamond-set indexes (8 brilliant cut diamonds, 0.02 ct, Top Wesselton, VS quality)
Model: Classima 31 mm Mother-Of-Pearl Quartz with Diamond-Set Bezel, Reference: M0A10478
Baume et Mercier Classima M0A10478
Movement
Quartz (Ronda 704)
Functions: H/M, date
Case
Round
Diameter: 31 mm
Thickness: 5.95 mm
Diamond-set polished stainless steel (48 brilliant-cut diamonds Top Wesselton, VS quality, 0.23ct)
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
Full case back
Water-resistance: 5 ATM (approx. 50m)
Model: Classima 31 mm Mother-Of-Pearl Automatic With Diamond-Set Bezel, Reference: M0A10479
Movement
Automatic (ETA 2892)
Jewels: 21
Power reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 4Hz (28’800 vph)
Functions: H/M/S, date
Case
Round
Diameter: 31 mm
Thickness: 8.25 mm
Diamond-set polished stainless steel (60 brilliant-cut diamonds Top Wesselton, VS quality, 0.29 ct)
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistance: 5 ATM (approx. 50m)
Model: Classima 34 mm Silver-Plated Automatic, Reference: M0A10495
Movement
Automatic (ETA 2892)
Jewels: 21
Power reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 4Hz (28’800 vph)
Functions: H/M/S, date
Case
Round
Diameter: 34 mm
Thickness: 8.15 mm
Polished stainless steel
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistance: 5 ATM (approx. 50m)
Model: Classima 34 mm Diamond-Set Mother-Of-Pearl Automatic, Reference: M0A10496
Baume et Mercier Classima M0A10496
Movement
Automatic (ETA 2892)
Jewels: 21
Power reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 4Hz (28’800 vph)
Functions: H/M/S, date
Case
Round
Diameter: 34 mm
Thickness: 8.15 mm
Polished stainless steel
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
Sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistance: 5 ATM (approx. 50m)
Dial
Mother-of-pearl
Roman numerals and diamond-set indexes (8 brilliant cut diamonds, Top Wesselton, VS quality, 0.03 ct)
The Imperial Tourbillon from Franck Muller is characterised by its high visibility. It is, so to speak, ‘suspended’ at the same level as the dial. In contrast to more traditional tourbillons, the Imperial tourbillon does not need to be guided by a visible bridge from the dial side. Its extreme originality lies in the fact that it is only held by a single pivot resting on a bridge inside the movement. Thanks to this technique, the person wearing this timepiece is entranced by the somersaults of a tourbillon without any form of attachment.
One issue related to tourbillons is that while they function well when the power supply is strong, as torque on the gear train diminishes and power reserve wanes, the accuracy of the tourbillon can become affected. That is because a tourbillon represents a heavier mechanism for the gear train to drive as compared to a simple escapement.
For this reason, many watchmakers have attempted to create constant-force devices to isolate the quality of power impulsing the tourbillon from the variable waxing and waning power supply contained in the mainspring. Thus, Franck Muller’s standard tourbillon utilizes a design different from the majority of commercially produced tourbillons.
In most tourbillons, the third wheel of the gear train drives the pinion of the tourbillon cage. However, as power supply diminishes and quality of power lessens, this diminishment can actually be amplified by the tourbillon. In Franck Muller tourbillons, instead of engaging the pinion of the cage using the third wheel, the watchmakers engage the exterior of the cage using an intermediate pinion.
The theory behind the superiority of driving the tourbillon from the exterior of the cage rather than from its pinion is related to leverage. Take, for instance, a merry-go-round that is at rest. If you try to turn it from the center, it is very difficult and it makes a big difference if you are strong or weak. But if you move to the outside of the merry-go-round and push it from its perimeter, the leverage allows you to turn it with very little force. Whether you feel weak or strong, you do not have to exert much energy. This is the same for the tourbillon; if you turn it from the exterior, it is not affected by reductions in torque from the mainspring, but if you turn it from the center, it is.
Franck Muller’s tourbillons are characterized by the use of a flying tourbillon design where the entire weight of the tourbillon is supported by the pinion of the cage. Thus, there is absolutely no upper bridge to obscure what is the most viewing pleasure in all of horlogerie.
Technical details
Reference: 8880 T
Case 18K rose gold Width: 39.6 mm x Length: 55.4 mm x Heigth: 11.8 mm Water resistant up to 30 meters
Functions Hours and minutes, optional second on tourbillon Winding crown in 2 positions
Movement Mechanical Tourbillon with manual winding Width: 25 mm x Length: 30 mm x Height : 5.30 mm 18’000 vibrations / hour 60 hours power reserve 191 components 21 jewels Côtes de Genève, circular graining, hand beveling.
Dial Sun-stamped white lacquered dial and Arabic numerals
Perfectly combining ancestral tradition with technique, the Perpetual Calendar watch complication by Franck Muller displays day, date, month, leap years and the moon phase, and it needs no correction until the year 2100.
A multi-complication model in the Franck Muller’s Perpetual Calendars line, the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Bi-Retro watch features a perpetual calendar, a chronograph and many retrograde indications. Attention to detail and sense of perfection are perfectly demonstrated in these beautiful timepieces, thanks to their hand-crafted movements and breath-taking dial.
This large watchmaking complication is available in the Round Classics versions, the emblematic Cintrée Curvex™ and in the Long Island line.
Its sun-lacquered guilloché dial, a feature of the brand, is enhanced with directive numerals which have turned Franck Muller watches into instantly-recognisable timepieces.
Technical details
Reference 9880 CC QP B
Case 18K rose gold Width: 43.3 mm x Length : 60.5 mm x Height : 12.9 mm Water resistant up to 30 meters
Functions Hours, minutes, 24 hours, days of the week, months, year Perpetual calendar with moon phases 2 positions winding-stem 4 correctors for the date, days, months, year and moon phases
Movement Self-winding mechanical movement Ø 25.6 mm x Height: 3.6 mm 21’600 vibrations/ hour 45 Hours Power Reserve 362 Components Hand-engraved, Côtes de Genève, circular graining, hand chamfered
Dial Sun-stamped translucent lacquered and black with Arabic numerals
Offering variations on the theme of its iconic Cat’s Eye, the Manufacture Girard-Perregaux presents three new creations exuding a resolutely sophisticated aura. The depth of their aventurine glass dial irresistibly evokes the Island of Murano. The Cat’s Eye Majestic, Celestial and Tourbillon models with their aventurine dial speak of a splendid golden age and creative inspiration that consistently delivers its very best.
Cat’s Eye Majestic Aventurine
The graceful charm of its dainty curves makes oval the epitome of femininity. A dial never so truly deserves its name as the ‘face’ of the watch as when it features such an elliptical shape. On the new Cat’s Eye Majestic, the oval is arranged vertically and beautifully extended by the tapering lugs. The pink gold case set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds ennobles the enigmatic dial, extending an enticing invitation to be won over the benevolent forces of the night. Its seductive colour hovering between blue and black further accentuates the mystery. The fascinating golden inclusions sparkle like remote yet dazzling stars. Adorning the pink gold oval ring subtly reinforcing the shape of the dial itself, a shower of 24 drop-shaped diamonds heralds the hours dedicated to dreams.
Above and beyond its role as an object of contemplation, since no one can resist the captivating sight of aventurine glass, the Cat’s Eye Majestic displays the hours and minutes thanks to a mechanical self-winding movement endowed with a 46-hour power reserve. The sapphire crystal case-back provides a chance to admire this in-house movement adorned according to the high standards cherished by Girard-Perregaux, notably illustrated by the gold oscillating weight bearing the “GP tapestry” motif.
Technical details
Cat’s Eye Majestic
Case Material: pink gold Dimensions: 40 x 34.7 mm Dial: aventurine Caseback: sapphire crystal Water resistance: 30 metres (3 ATM)
Movement Reference: GP03300-0121, mechanical self-winding Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h – (4 Hz) Number of jewels: 27 Number of components: 199 Power reserve: min. 46 hours Functions: hours, minutes
Strap Midnight blue alligator leather strap secured by a pink gold folding clasp
Reference 80493D52A1827CK4A
Cat’s Eye Celestial Aventurine
The horizontal oval of the Cat’s Eye Celestial lends a radiant expression to the watch. It graciously welcomes a moon phase that is sophisticated on both aesthetic and mechanical levels. This generously proportioned complication is highlighted by a hand-polished mother-of-pearl and aventurine glass dial. In tiny pointillist-style touches, the various elements are carefully adjusted to as to vanish and merge into this allegory of femininity.
For the woman wearing the Cat’s Eye Celestial, it is essential to be in harmony with the Earth’s graceful satellite, in touch with her feelings, and confident in handling this crown-adjustable horological complication whose accuracy is such that it requires just one correction every 360 years.
The heavenly vault is the kingdom of the moon, vividly embodied in the aventurine – surrounding the complication as well as on the disc bearing the mother-of-pearl moon – which lends incredible depth to the tableau. The sparkling inclusions reflect the radiance of the diamonds symbolising the hours. The Cat’s Eye Celestial is powered by a proprietary movement entirely designed, developed, produced and finished in keeping with the Fine Watchmaking traditions.
Technical details
Cat’s Eye Celestial
Case Material: pink gold Dimensions: 35 x 30.4 mm Dial: aventurine Caseback: sapphire crystal Water resistance: 30 metres (3 ATM)
Movement Reference: GP03300-0125, mechanical self-winding Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h – (4 Hz) Number of jewels: 32 Number of components: 240 Power reserve: min. 46 hours Functions: hours, minutes, large moon phase
Strap Midnight blue alligator leather strap secured by a pink gold folding clasp
Reference 80496D52A451-CK4A
Cat’s Eye Tourbillon Aventurine
In the sky portrayed on the night blue dial, the trail of baguette-cut diamonds evokes the shooting stars whose path one follows while making a wish. The result of great patience and dexterity, the gemsetting on this exceptional Cat’s Eye begins by selecting stones according to their quality as well as by decreasing size so as to ensure they fit perfectly together. This will determine the vivacity of the motif thus created, like a dazzling effect whose radiance is increased tenfold by the aventurine.
The flurry of baguette-cut diamonds continues along the bezel, accentuating the dainty curves of its oval shape, and then spilling onto the subtly elongated lugs. The silhouette of this watch is supremely elegant, ensuring a sleekly refined presence on the wrist. The couture tone is thus set and the gemset gold bow holding the tourbillon further contributes to transporting the observer into a realm where visual allure reigns supreme.
A major complication whose mission is to counteract the effects of gravity on a watch’s precision, the tourbillon has a head-spinning effect. The sight of its lyre-shaped rotating carriage is truly mesmerising, while the superb hand finishing applied to this tourbillon is equally fascinating for women sensitive to authentic horological substance. This expertise has been lavished on the entire hand-wound in-house movement, clearly signalling its place within the rarefied spheres of Fine Watchmaking. The one-of-a-kind Cat’s Eye Tourbillon is set with 6.20 cts of diamonds, right the way through to its flower-shaped crown adorned with a rose-cut diamond. Its presentation box is a palace in itself, while its ultimate meaning lies in the celebration of art and beauty.
Technical details
Cat’s Eye Tourbillon
Case Material: white gold
Dimensions: 32 x 27 mm
Dial: aventurine
Glass: glareproofed upper sapphire crystal
Caseback: secured by four screws
Water resistance: 30 metres (3 ATM)
Movement Reference: GP09700-0015, mechanical manual-winding Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h – (3 Hz) Number of jewels: 20 Number of components: 174 Power reserve: min. 70 hours Functions: tourbillon, hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon
Strap Midnight blue alligator leather strap secured by a gemset white gold folding clasp
The new Ocean Star Diver 600 watch from Mido incorporates a distillation of technology to offer flawless reliability. The watch complies with the ISO 6425 certification for diving watches. It is water-resistant to a pressure of 60 bar (600 m/1,968 ft), and incorporates a helium valve.
Fitted with a black rubber strap with a pin buckle, Its 43.5 mm diameter polished and satin-finished steel case is treated with black DLC, a cutting-edge procedure that gives it a unique colour.
Nestled on top of a black ceramic ring, the unidirectional rotating bezel features engraved numerals filled with Super-LumiNova Grade X® – an innovation that enables the diving time to be read with extreme accuracy, whatever the visibility conditions. A small incision located on the side of the case at 9 o’clock releases any excess water trapped inside the rotating bezel mechanism to prevent corrosion.
Large touches of white Super-LumiNova Grade X® are applied to the indexes of its superb lacquered black dial and the satin-finished and diamond-cut hour and minute hands to ensure perfect readability underwater and at night. The aperture at 3 o’clock indicates the date.
The Ocean Star Diver 600 is fitted with the Caliber 80 Si, a latest-generation COSC-certified chronometer movement. It combines an exceptional autonomy of up to 80 hours of power reserve with extraordinary accuracy and shock resistance, provided by the silicon balance-spring. The case back is adorned with a polished starfish in relief, the symbol of the Ocean Star collection.
The Ocean Star Diver 600 is also available in an all-steel version with a graduated blue dial.
Technical details
Movement Automatic Mido Caliber 80 Si (ETA C07.821 base), COSC-certified chronometer, 11½’’’, Ø25.60 mm, height: 5.22 mm, 25 jewels, 21,600 vph, ELINFLEX mainspring, silicon balance-spring, decorative disc with transferred Si logo on the balance bridge. Finely decorated chronometer movement with blued screws, oscillating weight decorated with Geneva stripes and Mido logo. Functions: HMSD. Adjusted on 5 different positions for high accuracy. Up to 80 hours of power reserve.
Case Satin-finished and polished 316L stainless steel, black DLC treatment, polished and satin-finished bezel with black ceramic ring featuring engraved numerals filled with Super-Luminova Grade X® and a unidirectional blocking function. Ø43.5 mm, 2 pieces, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, screwed crown and case back. Starfish engraved and polished on the case back, helium valve, water-resistant up to a pressure of 60 bar (600 m/1968 ft).
Dial Lacquered black, polished applied indexes with white Super-Luminova Grade X®, date at 3 o’clock Hands: Diamond-cut and satin-finished, skeletonised and filled with white Super-Luminova Grade X® for easy readability at night
This meticulously engineered timepiece clearly reflects the expertise of the Research and Development team at Franck Muller and houses the world’s fastest tourbillon escapement.
Powered by four barrels, the tourbillon cage makes one full rotation every 5 seconds on a ceramic ball bearing. This translates to 12 rotations per minute, making it 12 times faster than the average tourbillons available in the market today.
The Bucherer BLUE collection includes an exclusive selection of finest Swiss timepieces – available exclusively from Bucherer. For the past three years, Bucherer has been reinterpreting iconic timepieces.
