The single-piece edition Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus combines Vacheron Constantin’s expertise in grand complication watches with its mastery of artistic crafts. This double-sided wristwatch comprises 16 complications, essentially astronomical and calendar-related, powered by Calibre 2755 GC16 with minute repeater and tourbillon. A technical feat housed in an 18K 5N gold case whose middle is sculpted in bas-relief. In tribute to the Roman god of vines and wine, this “Bacchus” watch finds another source of inspiration in Johannes Kepler, resulting in a captivating association between mythology and astronomy.
The 18K 5N pink gold case of this Les Cabinotiers timepiece features a decoration composed of vine leaves interspersed with bunches of ruby grapes. The engraver’s work is complemented by that of the gem-setter on the outside of the case in giving life to figurative motifs, making this watch a piece of fine craftsmanship.
The case decoration continues on the bezel and case-back with a hand engraving depicting vine leaves. The difficulty implied by this intaglio engraving lies in the absence of a border or contour line. Hollowed out across the entire width of the bezel, the garland thus stands alone thanks to the metronomic regularity of the motif. This latter aspect is picked up on the two fastening options – folding clasp and pin buckle.
To create the movement of this highly complicated watch, Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers took the Tour de l’Île as a reference, a timepiece presented in 2005 as a tribute to 250 years of watchmaking expertise cultivated by the Geneva-based Manufacture. In the same spirit, the Les Cabinotiers – Bacchus timepiece combines 16 complications, making it one of the most complex watches produced by the Maison. Its manual winding Calibre 2755 GC16 is equipped with a tourbillon regulator to compensate for the effects of the earth’s gravity on the mechanism.
Featuring a cage shaped like Vacheron Constantin’s signature Maltese cross emblem, the tourbillon completes one full rotation per minute, thus serving as a small seconds indicator. This watch also incorporates a minute repeater chiming the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. To avoid unnecessary noise as well as wear and tear on the mechanism, the striking of the gongs is equipped with an ingenious centripetal flying strike regulator. This perfectly silent device regulates the duration of the musical sequences so as to obtain clear, distinct and regular sounds.
The calendar and astronomical functions play a starring role on both sides of the watch. On the front, where the mechanical ballet of the tourbillon can be admired at 6 o’clock, the perpetual calendar indications are displayed on three counters. Positioned in the upper part of the dial, they respectively show the date, day and month.
Designed to keep track of the Gregorian calendar’s vagaries without any need for adjustment until 2100, this horological complication is further enhanced by the indication of the leap-year cycle. The latter appears in a small aperture next to the hand indicating the torque of the minute repeater mechanism between 1 and 2 o’clock. This striking mechanism power reserve is matched by an indication of the movement power reserve, which can be read by means of a serpentine pointer coaxial with the day of the week hand.
The complex mechanics of this piece also provide an astronomical reading of time representing a tribute to Johannes Kepler (1571-1630), regarded as one of the founders of modern astronomy for having discovered the laws of planetary motion, in perfect agreement with Copernicus’ heliocentric hypotheses. The first astronomical functions thus appear on this same opaline champagne-coloured dial, starting with the equation of time positioned between 10 and 11 o’clock.
As the Earth’s path around the Sun is not circular but elliptical, and since the Earth’s axis is inclined at 24° to the plane of its orbit, the time between two zenith passages of the Sun is not the same throughout the year. This difference between the (true) solar day and the (average) 24-hour civil day ranges from -16 to +14 minutes depending on the time of year and coincides only four times a year. Called the equation of time, or time correction in astronomical language, this differential is displayed by a dedicated pointer, while sunrise and sunset times – adjusted according to a reference city – appear at the bottom of the dial.
The sidereal time display finds its place the back of the watch in the shape of a rotating disc depicting the celestial vault with its constellations observable from the Northern hemisphere. Taking a fixed star in the sky as a reference point, the time required for the Earth to complete a full 360° rotation, or sidereal day, is exactly 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds.
Since the Earth is both spinning on its axis and revolving around the Sun, it takes about four minutes less than a calendar day to return to its point of origin relative to a given star. On this model, the “celestial” disc thus performs a complete rotation according to sidereal time with the time displayed on the periphery, opposite the date appearing on the periphery of the mobile disc.
This same date is read off by a large central hand moving over the fixed outer flange bearing a scale graduated in five-day increments. This hand also indicates the sign of the zodiac, the season and the four dates corresponding to the solstices and equinoxes. Finally, the small central hand indicates the age of the moon.
Comprising 839 parts and measuring a total 33.90 mm in diameter and 12.15 mm thick, this extremely complex movement is endowed with a 58-hour power reserve. It displays all its functions in a perfectly legible manner on both sides. The balance oscillates at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz).
The 47 mm-diameter 18K 5N pink gold case has been specifically designed to provide the best possible sound quality for the minute repeater.
Model: Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus
Caliber 2755 GC16
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
33.90 mm diameter, 12.15 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Front side: Hours, minutes, small second at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage – Minute repeater – Tourbillon – Perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year) – Power reserve indication – Equation of time – Sunrise time – Sunset time – Alarm torque indication
Back side: Sky chart – Age and phases of the moon – Sidereal hours and minutes – Seasons, zodiac signs
Crowns and pushers
Setting Hours and minutes adjustment: winding crown (2 positions)
Moon phase adjustment: correction push-piece on the case
Perpetual calendar adjustment: two correction push-pieces on the case
Sky chart adjustment: with crown and screwed-down push-piece
18K 5N pink gold with bezel and back side hand-engraved with “vine leaves” and case band hand-engraved with “vine leaves” and gem-set with 113 rubies for a total weight of approximately 1.84 cts representing bunch of grapes
47 mm diameter, 19.10 mm thick
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Buckle: 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp and buckle hand-engraved with a “vine leaves” pattern; Half Maltese cross-shaped
Les Cabinotiers Prestige box
Delivered with a corrector pen and a magnifying glass
A winder box
« Les Cabinotiers », « Pièce unique », « AC » hallmark engraved on caseback
Swiss watch brand Edox marks the 60th anniversary of its iconic Delfin series.
In 1961, Edox launched an exceptional diver’s watch with a patented double O-ring system and a reinforced, pressure-resistant case. Shock-proof and 200m water resistant, Delfin set a new benchmark in water-resistant timepieces.
Now Edox honours “The Water Champion’’ with the Delfin Mecano 60th Anniversary Limited Edition. The new anniversary edition not only goes deeper than the 1961 original (300m water-resistance this time); it also sports some impressive design features and technical improvements.
It boasts an open-worked dial with a distinct rotor design. The Super Luminova coated hands and indices allow reading off the time in low light. The watch houses a skeletonized self-winding movement made in Switzerland.
The Delfin Mecano 60th Anniversary Limited Edition watch is fitted with a stylish 12-sided bezel, a distinctive design that Edox first introduced into its watches in 1973. Each side of the bezel represents one-hour increments. The 43mm diameter stainless steel watch case is coated with black-grey PVD for a beautiful feel on the wrist.
Its transparent, fully screwed case back is protected by scratch-resistant anti-reflective sapphire crystal. The moveable lugs allow the wearer to adjust the fit precisely.
MEMORIS YUCATAN is inspired by the world’s first chronograph produced by Louis Moinet in 1816, inventor of the chronograph and of high frequency (Guinness World Records™).
This creation finds unique expression thanks to YUCATAN GREEN, an original colour that owes its vibrancy to a clever combination of sunburst satin-brushing, special-coloured varnish, as well as silvering to enhance its brilliance. It houses Calibre LM86, a spectacular and innovative self-winding mechanical movement, displaying the 147 elements of the chronograph function on the dial side.
Every detail of MEMORIS YUCATAN evokes sportiness, elegance and exclusivity based on a unique mechanism stemming from the most advanced research. The curved crystal of the MEMORIS YUCATAN reveals the spectacular and unprecedented design of the chronograph. The traditional mechanism has been entirely separated, with the chronograph device visible on the front and automatic winding on the back.
Unique to Louis Moinet, this vision enables the complexity of this measuring mechanism to be fully admired at each interaction: start, stop, reset. A single gentle press on the single pusher allows an amazing sight to unfold before your eyes. More than 500 components had to be developed in order to achieve this incomparable feat.
The curved YUCATAN GREEN dial endows it with energy and vitality. Modernism is at the forefront, highlighted by revisited hands, new typography and the introduction of hour-markers. The bright red chronograph hands ensure perfect legibility. The black plate adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif helps highlight the powerful chronograph mechanism.
The care devoted to the aerodynamic treatment of the MEMORIS YUCATAN’s design has extended to the use of strongly domed crystals on the front and back of the watch. These serve to refine the silhouette while guaranteeing maximum ergonomics.
This sporty chronograph is housed in a very light titanium case (only 31 grams), which makes it especially comfortable to wear.
The handmade alligator leather strap features unusual colour and finishing combinations, such as the clean-cut and waxed green edges along with seams in green thread. Its extra-matt rubberised finish combined with a green alligator leather lining adds an exuberant touch.
To mark the 75th Anniversary of Aspen Snowmass, Hublot, the Official Timekeeper of Aspen Snowmass, has launched a limited-edition commemorative timepiece.
The alpine-white skeletonized timepiece takes on the iconic Hublot Classic Fusion model. This limited edition of 25 pieces made of black ceramic with a white ceramic bezel features the Aspen tree leaf on the second hand and high shine brilliant titanium, a homage to the silver mining heritage of the Rockies and Aspen township. The limitation is stamped on the back of the timepiece along with the 75-year commemorative logo.
The Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Aspen Snowmass Limited Edition is available exclusively at Hublot boutiques America wide and available on HUBLOT’s eCommerce, priced at $18,800 USD.
Hublot pays tribute to the Matterhorn, one of the best-known mountains in the Alps, with a new Big Bang “All Black” collection.
The Matterhorn is the iconic emblem of Switzerland. The mountain’s faceted pyramidal form makes it instantly recognisable among the thousands of other Alpine peaks. It is one of the toughest climbs in the world, yet has become synonymous with Alpine family leisure pursuits.
Hublot has created two versions of the Big Bang All Black Zermatt. The men’s and women’s models are different yet complementary. They represent the two sides of a single identity, a single horological vision, like two faces of the same mountain.
The 44 mm men’s version is available in 100 individually numbered pieces. The micro-blasted black ceramic case houses the self-winding HUB4100 chronograph, which is visible through the sapphire case back. The Matterhorn’s identity is captured on the dial side: the small seconds hand at 9 o’clock sits atop a relief rendering in immaculate white. Its bold, striking contrast draws the eye to the centre of the anthracite grey sunray dial.
Faithful to the All Black aesthetic, the timepiece is dressed exclusively in black and grey tones: Anthracite applied indices, two broad hands imprinted with black luminescent material, black resin lugs and a black rubber strap with grey calf inserts and deployant buckle.
The 41 mm women’s version symbolises the opposite face, with the Matterhorn emblazoned at 3 o’clock. Available in just 50 individually numbered pieces, its bezel set with 36 black diamonds.
These also beautifully embody the All Black’s characteristic duality, harnessing the customary snow-white sparkle of the diamond and translating it into the deepest black for this ultra-contrasted version. The model features a self-winding chronograph calibre with a 42-hour power reserve and a date window at 4:30.
Model: BIG BANG ALL BLACK ZERMATT
301. CX.7040.VR.ZTT21: Special Edition XXX/100
341. CX.7040.VR.1204.ZTT21: Special Edition XX/50
Black ceramic, micro-blasted
Diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 14.10 mm
Water resistance: 10 ATM (10m)
Black Ceramic, micro-blasted – engraved “ZERMATT EDITION” “XXX/100”
Sapphire glass with interior anti-reflective treatment + ZTT21 logo printed
Black Ceramic micro-blasted
Grey sunray satin-finished, Satin-finished black-plated appliqués
Applique of the Matterhorn on the 9 o’clock counter
Caliber Hublot HUB4100
Self-winding movement, chronograph
Frequency: 4 Hz (28’800 A/h)
Power reserve: 42 hours
Number of components: 252
Black rubber and grey calf with grey stitching
Black-plated stainless steel deployant buckle clasp
This special edition timepiece was created in collaboration with the famous marine photographer Greg Lecoeur.
This massive 45mm diameter watch in bronze houses a customized self-winding movement that drives retrograde minutes, jumping hour and power reserve indications. Greg Lecoeur has selected the Hydrosphere Bronze diving watch model, and chosen a blue sunray dial to best reflect the seabed.
Water resistant to 250 meters, this diving watch features unidirectional rotating bezel in ceramic, helium valve, sapphire crystal glass, screw-down crown and stainless steel case back.
The Greg Lecoeur Edition also won the best diving watch award, awarded by the Middle East Watch & Jewellery Show, Edition 2021.
45mm, bronze case with satin finish
Bronze dial with sundial finish, white index, magnifier on the jumping hour window
Self-winding mechanical movement, 37 hours power reserve
Complications: retrograde minutes, jumping hour, power reserve
Patented proprietary 124-pieces module on ETA 2824-2 caliber
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Unidirectional, ceramic rotating bezel with double scale for reading the time at different diving depths before and after the retrograde minute hand’s return
Stainless steel screwed back
Water resistance: 250 meters
Black rubber strap screwed onto the body
Additional blue NATO strap provided, mounted on bronze stirrups
Price: 4,850 Euros TTC
RAYMOND WEIL presents a luxurious variation of its emblematic noemia watch.
Named after the Maison’s founder granddaughter, the noemia collection celebrates the RAYMOND WEIL family by creating exclusively feminine pieces.
The NOEMIA watch is now available in a steel version with an accented jewellery character. Made with the Swiss precision for which the company is renowned, it is adorned with 47 diamonds and its delicate curves form a voluptuous caress of the wrist.
With its two glittering cascades of 18 diamonds set asymmetrically on the 32 mm case, the jewelled decoration has moved out of its usual context. The dial captures the eye with its depth giving an unprecedented effect of grandeur.
The sober combination of nature and gradation results from the precious guilloché work creating an incomparable effect of light, texture, brilliance and elegance. The dial is adorned with 11 diamond indices and a Roman XII, as a reference to the collection’s previous models.
The dazzling case, the pure dial and the delight of the polished and satin-finished steel bracelet are hallmarks of an authentic piece of jewellery. The model is available in two dial variations: green and grey.
Round – Polished stainless steel set with 36 diamonds
Crown: With lacquer
Case back: Screwed
Water resistance: 50 m, 165 ft, 5 atm
5132-S1S-52181: Green, with Roman numerals and set with 11 diamonds
5132-S1S-60181: Grey, with Roman numerals and set with 11 diamonds
Stainless steel bracelet
Stainless steel folding clasp with double push-security system
During Dubai Watch Week 2021, De Bethune launched a new DB25QP Perpetual Calendar watch with a green guilloche dial and a new titanium case featuring integrated lugs.
The De Bethune perpetual calendar is tinged with poetry and combines the finesse of watchmaking with the precision mechanics of the Manufacture by bringing together moon phase, starry sky and perpetual calendar in an exceptional timepiece. Inspired by the drum, the round case with a diameter of 44 mm, with its fine and resolutely classic lines, is subtly enhanced by the hollowed-out horns characteristic of the DB25 collection.
The finesse of the decorations and the purity of the green hand-guilloche dial, radiating in 12 sectors, underline the legibility of the dial, which is built up by the assembly of ring-shaped appliques delimiting the sub-dials and the hour circle. At 12 o’clock, a sphere in palladium and black oxidized zirconium sits in a sky set with gold stars, also incorporating a leap year indicator in a gold pastille in the starry sky at 12 o’clock. The date can be read on a dial located at 6 o’clock, while the windows indicating the day of the week and the month are located at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively.
The round case of the new DB25QP retains the harmonious lines that contributed to the success of the original DB25QP but is offered for the first time in titanium. This further enhances the practicality and comfort of this timepiece.
Developed in the Manufacture’s Haute Horlogerie workshops in Sainte Croix in the Swiss Jura, the automatic DB2324 caliber benefits from De Bethune’s research and technology know how. It incorporates a perpetual calendar, a spherical moon indicating the moon phases with a precision of 1 day/122 years, a self-regulating double barrel, a triple pare-chute system and a titanium/grey gold balance.
A sapphire caseback allows one to admire the complexity of the movement as well as the refinement of its finishing: ¾ platinum bridge with star decoration, sandblasted and hand-colored, blued titanium balance bridge and oscillating weight arm, hand-colored white gold weight, hand-beveled and mirror-polished steels.
This new perpetual calendar comes with a green textile strap with a polished titanium buckle and pin. A second leather strap accompanies it. A perfect illustration of the technical and aesthetic know-how of the Manufacture, this new reference DB25QPATIS4 is destined to replace all the DB25QPs previously presented in the current De Bethune collection.
La Esmeralda is the famous prize-winning pocket watch made for the ‘Exposition Universelle’ in 1889. As the Girard-Perregaux Manufacture celebrates its 230th anniversary, it has revisited its iconic timepiece of 1889 and created a wristwatch that celebrates the Maison’s incredible fine watchmaking heritage and know-how.
In 1860, Constant Girard created a tourbillon chronometer equipped with three nickel silver bridges. Later, in 1867, Constant entered the Observatoire of Neuchâtel competition where his watch won first prize, setting a record that remained unchallenged for many years. Again, in 1867, the same watch won a medal at the Exposition Universelle, Paris.
What differentiated Constant’s work from that of his peers was that he didn’t restrict his efforts to technical details alone but also expended much effort refining the architecture of his movements. In particular, the famous three bridges he employed on his watches were not merely functional, but also designed to be visible and attractive. Over time, the design of the arrow-shaped bridges became increasingly stylised, encompassing numerous facets. Furthermore, the three bridges were ennobled, transitioning from the nickel silver found on the early pocket watches to the now famous golden bridges.
Constant would visit Paris again in 1889, entering another pocket watch for the ‘Exposition Universelle’. The renowned watchmaker unveiled the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, a pocket watch housed in a sumptuous pink gold case, measuring 56mm in diameter and fitted with a detent escapement.
The case was elaborately engraved by Fritz Kundert, an acclaimed artisan based in the ‘Neuchâtel Mountains.’ In September 1889, the watch received a diploma and gold medal at ‘Exposition Universelle’. After the event, a famous watch and jewellery retailer, Hauser, Ziwy & Co, which operated ‘La Esmeralda’ stores in Paris and Mexico, was tasked with selling the prize-winning watch.
The watch, ultimately called ‘La Esmeralda’, was sold to Porfirio Diaz, then president of Mexico (1830-1915). In 1970, a descendent of the president offered the Manufacture the opportunity to purchase the watch and it now forms part of the Maison’s museum collection.
While La Esmeralda was a highly precise pocket watch, its charms were not merely restricted to its engraved case and golden bridges. For instance, it was fitted with a sumptuous white grand feu enamel dial.
Moreover, Poire Stuart hour and minute hands, featuring a filigreed design, contributed to the watch’s elegant mien. Finally, the savonette case, incorporating a hinged dust cover, was beautifully engraved with three horses. However, despite having extensive archives, Girard-Perregaux can find no record regarding the significance of said horses. Indeed, the horses have now become known as the ‘equine mystery’.
This year, as Girard-Perregaux celebrates its 230th anniversary, the Manufacture has created La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition, a wristwatch employing the Maison’s legendary watchmaking know-how as well as encompassing an array of artistic crafts, executed to an exceptional standard.
Unveiled during the Dubai Watch Week in 2021, this latest creation re-interprets the design of the legendary 1889 ‘La Esmeralda’ pocket watch and references many of its extraordinary refinements.
Three gold bridges span the dial, similar to those fitted to La Esmeralda of 1889. However, on this latest model, Girard-Perregaux has once again made the invisible visible by bringing the horses engraved on the back case of the original pocket watch up to centre stage of this new timepiece. Indeed, two hand-engraved galloping horses form the right and left ends of the barrel bridge and tourbillon bridge.
Each bridge is painstakingly finished and features concave bevelling, mirror-polishing, flanks with horizontal ‘traits-tirés’ and rounded off arms. It requires 40 hours to finish all three bridges, while the additional engraving found on the barrel bridge and tourbillon takes an extra 50 hours to complete.
While the La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition celebrates the Manufacture’s history and upholds many of its historical techniques, it also incorporates cutting-edge technology. For example, the elaborately formed mainplate is made using a CNC-machine and produced to infinitesimal tolerances unimaginable back in the 19th century. However, once milled, the mainplate is finished to the exacting standards befitting the term ‘Haute Horlogerie’. This is just one example of how Girard-Perregaux has repeatedly juxtaposed modern-day know-how with traditional expertise.
The mainplate (caseback side) is embellished with a new form of finishing, an industry first exclusive to Girard-Perregaux. Where some high-end watches feature a bevelled edge, presented at 45°, spanning the surface and the flank, this model encompasses concave bevelling. This involves creating a curved recess between the surface and flank, catching light wonderfully and transitioning from one shade to another.
As its name implies, the watch is fitted with a secret cover. By pressing the crown pusher, the secret cover opens, revealing the self-winding movement, the Calibre GP09600-1506. Beneath the secret cover, the mainplate is fitted with a motion-work bridge and marking plate. Both are made from pink gold and incorporate traits-tirés and hand-polished angles, thereby emulating the shape of the famous Gold Bridges. The motion-work bridge is marked ‘secret’. The inside of the hinged secret cover is hand-engraved with various inscriptions, albeit these can be personalised on request.
Both the barrel and the mainplate (dial side) are enlivened with various guilloché patterns, performed using a traditional rose-engine lathe, operated by a time-served artisan.
The dauphine-type hour and minute hands are formed of pink gold and circumnavigate an intricate and beautifully appointed dial. Beyond its three iconic bridges and the aforementioned guilloché dial, the watch is endowed with several additional delights for the delectation of purists.
The central area of the dial and mainplate is recessed, accommodating the barrel, centre wheel and tourbillon cage. A rhodium plated barrel sits in the upper portion of the dial and features golden engraved text. This detail recalls the text found on the barrel of the original La Esmeralda, declaring the model’s patented status. A white gold micro-rotor sits beneath the barrel, out of sight, energising the mainspring with minimal user input.
A tourbillon cage is positioned in the lower portion of the dial. Made using state-of-the art technology, the lyre-shaped cage, comprised of 78 components, weighs just 0.3g. This low mass helps mitigate power-consumption, contributing to the model’s power-reserve of at least 50 hours. A blued steel hand is affixed to the tourbillon cage and serves as a small seconds display.
The pink gold case is totally hand-engraved, honouring the skilful work of Fritz Kundert, the artisan tasked with engraving La Esmeralda in the 19th century, as well as the dedication and skill of the modern-day artisans of La Chaux-de-Fonds. The bezel, caseband, lugs and buckle are engraved with a delicate leaf motif. The outerpart of the cover is adorned with a fluted pattern. Additional engraving graces both the inside and exterior of the secret cover.
La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition is introduced as part of the Eternity Edition series, paying homage the eternal beauty of enamel. This contemporary Interpretation has taken use this métier d’art one step further than Its historical forebearer, extending the enamelling onto the outer case sides and lugs – all of which has been executed in-house.
To the rear of the watch, the back of the blue enamelled secret cover features three horses, again inspired by the original La Esmeralda and adorned with a sunray guilloché decoration and blue grand feu enamel. The horses return, but their origin remains an enigma or, as they say at the Manufacture, ‘an equine mystery’.
La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition will be offered in seven different colourways, each produced on request for a maximum of eighteen pieces per colour. It is available worldwide through all authorised Girard-Perregaux retailers.
The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Eternity Edition is a brand new watch model endowed with a sublime in-house grand feu enamel dial.
In 1969, Girard-Perregaux unveiled the Deep Diver, a watch intended for subaquatic use. Its cushion-shaped case was designed accordingly, but its curvaceous form also delivered a high quotient of eye-appeal. Most notable of all was the model’s unique bezel design with 14 facets.
Later in the mid-1970s, the Manufacture launched its steel sports watch Laureato. It featured a fully integrated bracelet and was initially supplied with a quartz movement. Interestingly, the design cleverly played with contrasting shapes. For example, a round dial was framed with an octagonal bezel which sat atop a circular plinth above a tonneau shaped case. The Laureato also introduced a new bezel design featuring eight facets rather than 14.
Over the years, the Laureato has evolved, embracing mechanical movements, different materials and a variety of complications. During Dubai Watch Week in 2021, the Manufacture unveiled a new version of the iconic watch, the Laureato 42mm Eternity Edition.
The composition of this model respects the lasting appeal of the original Laureato design of 1975, but augments its enduring looks with a grand feu enamel dial. This glossy epidermis will never fade with the onset of years and will retain its showroom-fresh appearance indefinitely. The grand feu enamel dials are made in the company’s in-house facility.
Furthermore, Girard-Perregaux has enlivened the surface of the dial with a guilloché sunray motif. This pattern is visible through the translucent enamel surface, heightening the splendour of the dial’s surface. Prospective wearers are indulged with a choice of blue or green dial options.
While the dial epidermis may be very distinctive, other dial elements are reassuringly familiar. Rhodium-plated baton-type hands convey the hours and minutes.
The brand’s initials are positioned at 12 o’clock and, along with the hour markers, are applied to the dial’s surface. The slender central sweep seconds hand features a counterweight emulating the profile of a Girard-Perregaux Gold Bridge. It also spotlights a date display at 3 o’clock with white numerals positioned upon a coloured disc, matching the hue of the main dial.
Upholding the DNA of the 1975 original, the Laureato 42mm Eternity Edition features an integrated bracelet. Each link is presented in polished or satin finished form, conferring a masterful interplay that has always been highly prized by watch aficionados. This marriage of contrasting finishes also extends to the case and bezel, bestowing a sumptuous feel to the composition.
The GP01800 calibre is made at the company’s production facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The self-winding movement features a pink gold oscillating weight adorned with circular Côtes de Genève motif. Additional movement refinements include straight Côtes de Genève on the bridges, bevelling, mirror-polished screws, circular graining on the main plate and engraved gilded text, all executed to the company’s no-compromise standards.
The Laureato 42mm Eternity Edition is available in two variants, blue and green. Each option is limited to 188 pieces.
Swiss luxury watch brand Blancpain celebrates the 2022 Lunar New Year by unveiling a new version of its Traditional Chinese Calendar. Crafted in platinum and issued in a 50-piece limited edition, this watch presents the indications of the lunisolar calendar on a white grand feu enamel dial. The zodiac sign of the year, the tiger, is highlighted on the back of the timepiece.
A complication exclusively developed by Blancpain, the Traditional Chinese Calendar is based on fundamental principles established for millennia and profoundly rooted in Chinese tradition.
On its dial, the hours, minutes and the Gregorian calendar rub shoulders with the main indications of the Chinese calendar: traditional double-hours, day, month with indication of leap months, signs of the zodiac, as well as the five elements and the ten celestial stems. The moon phases, defining traditional Chinese months and a key element in all Blancpain complete calendars, are also presented.
To mark the transition to the year of the tiger 2022 (1 February 2022 to 21 January 2023), Blancpain has created a new edition of this emblematic timepiece: a model in platinum with a white grand feu enamel dial whose oscillating weight is engraved with the Chinese zodiac sign of the year, the tiger.
Faithful to the aesthetic signature elements of the Villeret collection, the refined 45 mm double-stepped case is equipped with under-lug correctors enabling easy function adjustments. It frames a display revealing Blancpain’s artisanal savoir faire. Whilst the chapter ring is composed of gold appliques, the other indications are enamel painted.
The main hands shaped like slightly hollowed leaves are associated with a blued serpentine hand sweeping over the Gregorian date numerals, a shape that is reminiscent of the 18th century watchmaking tradition. The Traditional Chinese Calendar model is driven by the self-winding 3638 movement.
Model: Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar “Year Of The Tiger” Limited Edition
Case thickness: 15.00 mm
Case diameter: 45.00 mm
Sapphire crystal glass and case back
Crown set with a Madagascar ruby
Water resistance: 3 bar
Lug width: 23.00 mm
Traditional Chinese Calendar [double-hour indication, signs of the zodiac, date and month of the Chinese calendar. Indication of the five elements, the celestial stems and the leap months]
Oscillating weight set with a Madagascar ruby
Thickness: 8.30 mm
Diameter: 32.00 mm
Power reserve: 168 hours
Number of components: 464
Limited edition of 50 pieces
Available in Blancpain Boutiques only
Celebrating the 230th anniversary this year, Girard-Perregaux presents the Cat’s Eye Eternity Edition watch featuring a grand feu enamel dial.
In 1889, Girard-Perregaux received a gold medal at the Paris Universal Exhibition for its Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges. While previous pocket watches featured three parallel nickel silver bridges, this model was endowed with a triumvirate of exquisitely shaped gold plates. Each bridge was arrow-shaped, a design patented a few years earlier in the United States of America (1884). While the bridges had a functional purpose, the Maison also made them an aesthetic element. This combination of functionality and style would become a fundamental pillar of the Girard-Perregaux brand.
After the unveiling of the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, Girard-Perregaux produced numerous round watches, however, it would also go on to play with a multitude of shapes beyond the ubiquitous circular form. Indeed, the inaugural version of the Laureato (1975) featured a round dial framed with an octagonal bezel which sat atop a circular plinth above a tonneau shape case.
In 2004, the Manufacture released a new creation, the Cat’s Eye collection. Housed in a distinctive oval-shaped case, the model upheld the Maison’s predilection for non-standard forms. Designed from the outset to be a feminine creation, the watch won the Ladies prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).
Close examination of the case reveals a gracefully arcing lugs and a cambered sapphire crystal. The numerous curves coax light, imbuing some contours with a brilliant glow while leaving other areas in darkness, quiet and reflective.
Over the years, Girard-Perregaux has produced several variants of the Cat’s Eye, some featuring complications, most adorned with gems, but all housed in an exquisite oval case. Now, the Manufacture unveils the Cat’s Eye Eternity Edition. Its name makes reference to the grand feu enamel dial and its capacity to retain a showroom-fresh appearance forever. No fading or cracking, just an extraordinary beauty that never fades. The grand feu enamel dials are made in the company’s in-house facility.
The oval dial is adorned with a guilloché sunray motif that is visible through the blue translucent enamel surface, heightening the splendour of the dial’s surface.
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands enunciate the time with notable grace. The brand’s initials are positioned at 12 o’clock and, along with the four hour markers, are applied to the dial’s surface while the others are decals. Purists will note the date display at 3 o’clock features white numerals positioned upon a coloured disc, matching the hue of the main dial as horological etiquette dictates.
Housed in a steel case, set with 62 brilliant-cut diamonds (∼0.85 ct), this latest model measures 35.40 x 30.40mm. The height of the case is a modest 9.10mm, ensuring the watch sits close to the wrist without projecting unduly.
Since the outset, the Cat’s Eye has always combined feminine design with mechanical finesse and, this latest version, the Cat’s Eye Eternity Edition, proves no exception. The self-winding movement, the GP03300-1739 calibre, is made at the company’s production facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
It features a flower-shaped oscillating weight which is made from pink gold and is beautifully appointed with fine decorative finishes. Additional movement refinements include straight Côtes de Genève on the bridges, bevelling, blued screws, circular graining on the main plate and engraved gilded text, all executed to the company’s exalted standards.
The Cat’s Eye Eternity Edition is limited to 88 pieces. It will be sold exclusively by Seddiqi during December 2021. Thereafter, the model will be available in all authorised Girard-Perregaux retailers and on the brand’s e-commerce site.
American watch brand Tockr presents a new, limited series of “The Wheel of Time” inspired wristwatches. With their luminous, serpentine watch dials, the new unisex Tockr “The Wheel of Time”models (ref. WOT1.1) channel the mystery and magic of the new fantasy series from Prime Video and Sony Pictures Television, available to stream now on Prime Video.
For centuries, the circular ouroboros serpent motif has signified the powerful, eternal nature of time, alchemy, and rebirth. In the universe of “The Wheel of Time,” this “Great Serpent” is also the favored icon of the revered and reviled Aes Sedai, those seemingly immortal wielders of The One Power.
Tockr chose a great serpent as the key focal point of the brand’s first “The Wheel of Time” watch collaboration. In daytime, glowing serpentine creature emerges from the depths of each dark black dial, illuminated in a blaze of bright white, Grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova®. By night, the largest serpent appears in a mystical, glowing blue reminiscent of Moiraine’s chosen ajah.
A 42 mm stainless steel case frames this otherworldly vision, with the largest serpent ringing the stainless-steel bezel, repeating in an ever-smaller concentric pattern that reinforces the concept of eternity and the cyclical nature of time. Ultimately, the eye is drawn to the dial center where the silver-tone hours, minutes, and seconds hands are anchored alongside the Tockr logo. The watch is powered by a high-grade Swiss quartz movement.
The solid case back bears a richly detailed engraving of “The Wheel of Time” logo and a unique serial number engraving. A textured black silicone strap subtly mimics the serpent’s scales and adds a dramatic finishing touch, complete with a stainless-steel pin buckle engraved with the Tockr logo. Each wristwatch will come delivered in a custom “The Wheel of Time” branded leather pouch.
This new numbered, limited Tockr “The Wheel of Time” series watches are available for pre-order ($449 USD each) exclusively at Tockr.com, shipping worldwide, with delivery in early 2022.
SEVENFRIDAY’s new T2/04 evokes the Art Deco design, which has been characterized by bold geometric shapes.
That boldness starts underneath the T-ART’s special grey semi-transparent dial made of eyewear lens material. The skeletonized elements have been under laid in distinctive patterns giving an unmistakable architectural structure.
But the Art Deco style is carried further throughout the five-layered dial. The bevelled inner circle in brushed galvanic gold features typical numerals of the period, whilst the outer plate in hard sandblasted gun metal is stamped in all corners with recognizable Roaring Twenties’ shapes.
The stainless-steel case carries the sobriety of the era with a fine sandblasted Gun metal PVD animation ring and a sunray brushed Gold PVD with blue Berlac highlights bezel.
Like all SEVENFRIDAY watches, the T2/04 comes with NFC chip for authentication and three-year warranty registration using the proprietary App. Fitted with a K1 hardened mineral glass, the watch offers 3ATM water resistance.
Stainless steel (316L) case in fine sandblasted Gun metal PVD
Stainless steel (316L) bezel in sunray brushed golden PVD
Grooved line refilled with blue Berlac lacquer
Finishing switching between polished, brushed and sandblasted
Specific multi lines engravings on the case wall, including SEVENFRIDAY logo at 9H side
Gold PVD crown, engraved «7F» signature, refilled with blue lacquer coating• Five layers construction
Gradient grey semi-transparent CR39 eyewear lens, printing relief in pale grey, blue and gold colors
Case dimensions: 45×45.6mm (HxW)
Case thickness: 13.05mm
Crown diameter: 7.5mm
K1 hardened mineral crystal glass
3ATM water resistance
Automatic Skeleton TMI (Seiko) NH70
40 hours power reserve
Skeletonized dial under layer inspired by typical Art Déco geometrical pattern
Circular brushed gun metal intermediate ring, cut out indexes from 2 to 10h, SEVENFRIDAY logo in relief printing
Double layer dial ring, beveled inner circle in brushed galvanic gold with 1920/30’s style numbers and tracks
Outer plate in hard sandblasted gun metal finishing, stamped Art Déco pattern at the four corners
White luminous painting on hour and minute hands
Premium quality brown genuine Calf skin leather, tone on tone stitching
Strap width: 26 to 22mm
Watch in connection with the SEVENFRIDAY App (iOS & Android), thanks to an NFC chip embedded in the caseback, allowing secured authentication and registration
In 1965, Seiko introduced its and Japan’s, first diver’s watch. With water resistance to 150m and an automatic movement, it proved its high quality and reliability when worn by members of the 8th Japanese Antarctic Research Expedition in 1966. Thanks to the positive reaction of the members of the expedition on their return, Seiko’s diver’s watches were chosen by the same research team between the years 1966 and 1969, during which time the landmark Seiko diver’s watch with 300m water resistance and a 10-beat automatic movement was created, in 1968.
Now, Seiko expands its Prospex collection with a new interpretation of the 1968 diver’s watch that is even better equipped to meet the challenge of the most extreme conditions on earth. This watch, with its advanced specifications, will be worn by members of the 63rd Japanese Antarctic Research Expedition’s mission to Antarctica.
The case, bezel and crown are all made of Seiko’s Ever-Brilliant Steel, which is more corrosion resistant than the regularly used stainless steel. To further ensure the watch’s durability, the crown is not screwed directly into the case but locked into a separate component that is built into the case and so can be more easily replaced.
The watch is powered by Caliber 8L35 which was developed especially for diver’s watches. Hand-assembled by the craftsmen and women at the Shizukuishi Watch Studio in northern Japan, this automatic movement is accurate and rigid. It has a power reserve of 50 hours.
The patterned dial captures the feeling of the Antarctic landscape while the subtle gradation of the blue from light to dark echoes the beautiful colors of the polar ice. The bezel also evokes the uniqueness of this frozen landscape with its ice-blue numerals and markers. All twelve-hour markers have a generous coating of Lumibrite, as do the hands, and the crystal is a dual-curved sapphire with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface to ensure high legibility from every angle.
The design and texture of the watch strap pay homage to the 1968 original but it is now produced in silicone for greater strength and comfort. The watch is also offered with a fabric strap which incorporates a traditional braiding technique from Japan called Seichu.
This new watch joins the Seiko Prospex Save the Ocean series in support of several different marine conservation initiatives, one of which involves contributions to the National Institute of Polar Research, which is based in Tokyo. As part of this program, Seiko recently donated watches to the 63rd Japanese Antarctic Research Expedition (JARE) team.
This new Prospex diver’s watch will be available as a limited edition of 1,300 at the Seiko Boutiques and selected retail partners worldwide in January 2022.
Model: Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation Save the Ocean Limited Edition
Driving system: Automatic
Vibrations: 28,800 vibrations per hour (8 beats per second)
Power reserve: 50 hours
Number of jewels: 26
Case and dial
Ever-Brilliant Steel case and bezel
Dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface
Screw case back. Screw-down crown
LumiBrite on hands and indexes
Water resistance: 200m diver’s
Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m
Diameter: 42.6mm, Thickness: 13.1mm
Silicone strap with additional fabric strap included
Approximate recommended retail price in Europe: €4,600
Timex has expanded its Giorgio Galli S1 collection by launching the new Giorgio Galli S1 38 Automatic watch.
The Giorgio Galli series is named after Timex Group’s Design Director. The Giorgio Galli S1 Automatic was introduced in 2019. It is a 41mm wristwatch with a Metal-Injection Molded 316l stainless steel case, MIYOTA 9039 movement and a domed K1 mineral crystal glass. Now, Timex welcomes a 38mm version to this collection.
Inspired from Giorgio’s love of photography, this refined and undeniably elegant wristwatch features a stainless steel case with brushed/polished finish and a double-domed sapphire crystal glass. The distinct case design of each Giorgio Galli S1 Automatic watch is composed of four separate parts. It spotlights lateral cut-outs.
This timepiece spotlights a gently domed dial featuring applied indexes, centre seconds hand and Super-LumiNova filled hour and minute hands.
Three dial versions are available: Inverness Green, Atlantic Blue and Iceland Stone Grey. Finished with sunburst pattern, The dial also features a synthetic red sapphire stone above the 6H hour marker.
It houses a Miyota 9039 automatic movement with a custom oscillating weight. It has a power reserve up to 42 hours. Through the transparent case back, you can admire this 24 jewel self-winding caliber.
MEMORIS VESUVIO is a contemporary chronograph inspired by the world’s first chronograph produced in 1816 by Louis Moinet, inventor of the chronograph and of high frequency (Guinness World Records).
Every detail of the MEMORIS VESUVIO evokes sportiness, elegance and exclusivity based on a unique mechanism stemming from state-of-the-art research. The curved crystal of the MEMORIS VESUVIO reveals the spectacular and original design of the chronograph. The traditional mechanism has been completely separated, with the chronograph function revealed on the front and the automatic winding system through the back.
Made of Grade 5 Titanium, this 46mm watch also symbolizes dynamism and modernity. The domed lemon-yellow dial strikes a vivid contrast with the bright red hands ensuring perfect legibility. The black baseplate adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif helps highlight the powerful chronograph mechanism.
The care devoted to the aerodynamic treatment of the lines of the MEMORIS VESUVIO even extends to the use of strongly convex crystals on both the front and back of the watch. These serve to ensure a trim outline while guaranteeing maximum ergonomics.
Comprising of 302 parts, the LM 86 automatic calibre beats at the rate of 4Hz. It has 34 jewels and provides a power reserve of 48 hours.
This sporty-natured chronograph features an extremely light titanium case (only 31 grams), which makes it especially comfortable to wear.
The ambience of the handmade alligator leather strap is dominated by novel colour combinations and details conducive to comfort on the wrist, such as the reworked flexibility and genuine alligator leather lining. Combined with a rubberised finish, the clean-cut dyed edges add a distinctively vibrant touch. Strap width is 24mm. It comes with a folding clasp.
To mark its 10th anniversary, Mr. Porter has collaborated with 10 luxury watch brands to design a unique collection. Ressence has developed the Type 1 MP2 featuring instantly recognisable multi-dimensional and continually revolving dial, combined with a mat green dial in a Grade 5 Titanium case.
The 10th hour marker, the 60 seconds marker, and the weekend indicator share a distinctive green, further refining the watch’s design. Limited to 10 pieces, this timepiece is exclusively available at Mr. Porter with a retail price of about £18,995. It comes with a green rubber strap.
Hyper luxury Swiss watch maker ROGER DUBUIS presents Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon, a special edition timepiece created in collaboration with French street artist Gully. A latest evolution of the Excalibur Original collection, this new wristwatch mixes both creative territories of the artist and the brand.
It is the second timepiece from the ROGER DUBUIS URBAN ART TRIBE project. The first model in this series was a special edition Excalibur watch created in partnership with tattoo artist Dr. Woo.
The star-shaped bridge is replaced by a skeleton dial representing the signature of the artist, using micro-structures filled with luminescent colored lacquer. Inspired by the spray paint used in urban art, ROGER DUBUIS filled the letters with luminescent coloured lacquer while the hour markers and the hands are filled with Super-Luminova.
Evoking his very first street works, Gully’s lettered tag uses the famed single-line technique. Starting from the centre of the timepiece, his hand moves in the direction of 11 o’clock, drawing the preliminary draft of a G. The line then heads towards 3 o’clock, but changes direction half-way to partially design a Y. Finally, the line reaches 9, then 12, 6 and 3, before it moves to the centre of the tourbillon and across to 4 o’clock.
Returning the line to the centre, it becomes clear that two L’s have been drawn. He concludes the run by drawing a U partially around the tourbillon. Look carefully at the letters born out of this continuous movement as the artist not only reinterprets the Roger Dubuis star but also signs the dial.
The RD512SQ mechanical manual-winding movement boasts an increased power reserve up to 72 hours thanks to tourbillon lower carriage made in titanium. The upper tourbillon carriage in cobalt is mirror-polished.
This new URBAN ART TRIBE timepiece from ROGER DUBUIS features a 42mm diameter Dark grey DLC titanium case. The Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon is mounted on a black calf leather strap, interchangeable with a Quick Release System for ultimate comfort and flexibility.
This boutique exclusive timepiece is limited to 8 pieces.
Type: Excalibur with design signature: notched bezel and three lugs
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 12.7 mm
Case material: Dark grey DLC titanium
Bezel: Dark grey DLC titanium
Crown: Dark grey DLC titanium
Sapphire crystal glass
Case back: Dark grey DLC titanium open case back with sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 10 BAR (100 meters)
Frequency: 3 Hz (21’600 vph)
Power reserve: 72 hours
Diameter: 37.1 mm (16 lines)
Thickness: 6.9 mm
Finishes: Shot-blasted and trued-up main plate and bridges with NAC coating
Grey double surface flange with engraved minute track and transferred texts, polished and rhodium plated hour markers with SLN in the centre
Gully signature in skeleton micro-structures filled with luminescent colored lacquer
Triple surface hands in white gold with satin brushed finish on the tilted surfaces and shot blasted finish on the flat grey surface, SLN tips
Black 3D calf leather strap, interchangeable with Quick Release System
Buckle: Dark grey DLC titanium cover with titanium blades triple folding interchangeable with Quick Release System
Swiss watchmaker DAVOSA’s origins can be trace back to 1861. To mark its 140 years of watchmaking history, the brand created a limited edition series of its well-liked Argonautic diver’s watch.
Dressed in a Forged carbon case, this special edition is strictly limited to 140 pieces per dial colour series. Typically used in aviation and aerospace, Forged carbon combines the exceptional qualities of metal and ceramic: making the case lightweight, highly resilient and extremely corrosion-resistant.
The screw-down case back displays a historic diving helmet in relief as well as the limited edition number. Equipped with a screw-in crown and a manual helium valve, watch offers water-resistance to a depth of 300 metres (30 ATM). Inside the case, a concealed DAV3021 Swiss automatic movement ticks away reliably.
Another style-defining feature of the Argonautic Carbon Limited Edition is the use of luminous pigment Super-LumiNova®. In neon orange or neon yellow, it adorns the skeletonised hands, numerals and the first quarter of an hour on the satined, circular ceramic bezel, ensuring excellent contrast during the day as well as good visibility at night.
Each timepiece is equipped with an integrated rubber strap with a folding clasp and diving extension. A second, interchangeable NATO flex strap is included in the exclusive wooden box, along with the limited certificate, to add a touch of variety.
Forged carbon case and part stainless steel with black PVD plating
Case diameter: Ø 43 mm
Case thickness: 13.5 mm
Screwed crown and back
Scratch-resistant, anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Manual helium valve
Water resistance to 300 metres (30 ATM)
Orange or yellow
Super-LumiNova® in neon orange or neon yellow on indices, hands and the first quarter hour marking on the ceramic bezel inlay
Date at 3H
Black rubber strap with folding clasp plus additional Nato flex strap
Strap lugs: 22 mm
ochs und junior presents settimana next, a brand new weekday watch designed by Ludwig Oechslin.
Dressed in a Grade 5 Titanium case, this automatic timepiece is available in two sizes: Ø 36 mm and Ø 40 mm. It has a minimalistic black dial. A violet dot moves clockwise across the 7 blue “weekday” dots (starting at the 1 o‘clock position and ending at the 7 o‘clock position) highlighting the specific day of the week.
The settimana is powered by Sellita’s SW 200-1 automatic movement. This timepiece is produced and assembled by ochs und junior in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
The ochs und junior settimana watch highlights the 7 days of the week by way of a rotating dot located between 1 o’clock (Monday) to 7 o’clock (Sunday). At the beginning of the week, the dot moves quickly to cover the 8 to 12 o’clock segment, restarting the new week each Monday morning. The 7-weekday module invented by Dr. Ludwig Oechslin contains a brass dial with functional back, a gear with weekday display (point), a triple function wheel and a transmission wheel.
Made from two parts designed by Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, available in grade 5 Titanium
Visible machining and milling traces
Dimensions available in Ø 36 or 40 mm
10.8 mm thickness
Weight 55-57 Gram
Screw-down crown made of titanium, designed Dr. Ludwig Oechslin
Glass: Sapphire crystal by Stettler in Lyss/Switzerland
Water Resistance 50m (5bar)
Base Movement SW 200-1 by Sellita SA, La Chaux-de-Fonds
Textile straps handmade by Sabina Brägger
Buckle: 22mm width in titanium designed by Dr. Ludwig Oechslin
Hour, minute and second hands with Swiss Super-LumiNova® in white
The entire watch is covered by a 2-year guarantee
CHF 2‘500 — incl. 7.7% VAT
CHF 2’300 — Export price.
Delivery of the watch: 8-12 weeks
Artisans de Genève unveils The “Amstrong” project, the bespoke watch created by its talented craftsmen for Lance Armstrong.
The base model chosen for this custom project was Rolex ® 116520 Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona. The mission was to return to the origins of watchmaking by blending forgotten codes— a pulsation dial and manual winding — with a modern design.
Inspired by Lance Armstrong’s open-book style life, Artisans de Genève skeletonised the 4130 caliber, before being sandblasted and beveled by hand.
The craftsmen also developed a manual winding mechanism that allows each element of the movement to be seen. The power reserve is identical to the original 72-hour caliber.
The balance bridge, an essential detail of the movement, is handcrafted with a black matt finish. The front of the personalization reveals a pulse dial, with dual counters at 3h and 6h, recalling the first velocipede.
Base: Rolex ® 116520
Dial: Openwork, dual counters 3h-6h, pulse graduation
Hours & minute hands: Sandblasted & polished
Seconds hands: Yellow thunder tip
Bezel: Black ceramic, polished, yellow tachymeter inscription
Movement: 4130 skeletonized, beveled and polished by hand, manual winding mechanism. Black Matte finish
Balance bridge: Hand mirror-polished
Strap: Rubber by Rubber B, yellow line.
Disclaimer: Artisans de Genève is an independent company specialized in the personalization of timepieces. It is not affiliated with ROLEX SA nor authorized by them to intervene on their products for any reason whatsoever. This personalization was ordered by a customer, who owns a Rolex® timepiece, for his private use.
Porsche Design has launched an all black edition of its 1919 Globetimer UTC watch.
Introduced two years ago, Porsche Design’s 1919 Globetimer UTC is a GMT watch that offers intelligent functionality, optimized legibility, and convenient, easy operation. Previously available in three different color variants, the chronometer-certified timepiece features black titanium carbide coating and a black leather strap made of Porsche interior leather.
Derived from the simple and precise handling of the Porsche double-clutch transmission, the display of the world’s 24 time zones can be adjusted in 1-hour increments – without the loss of the current time display – by simply pressing the form-fitting push-button which is ergonomically embedded into the case.
Each push of this button causes the short, local-time, hour hand to advance clockwise one position. When flying east, each push of the “+” button advances the second time zone by an interval of one hour. When flying west, pressing the “–” button causes the UTC hands to move in the opposite direction. All the while, the UTC hands automatically move, remaining in synchrony.
To ensure this occurs at midnight and not at noon, the time needs to be set correctly just once. A circular window on the left-hand side of the dial facilitates this task: a white dot appears here during daytime hours, while the aperture remains black at night. Porsche Design has also taken into account the reference time indicated by a second, and clearly distinguishable hour hand with a distinctive luminous tip. This hand turns once every twenty-four hours, displaying the home time.
Perfect legibility is another essential feature. To intuitively display the time from any viewing angle, the dial’s radius was designed to be as large as possible, while the titanium case was made uncommonly slim. Well-balanced styling imbues this watch with a unique lightness, further enhanced by the handsomely shaped wristband.
Color contrasts, distinctive hands, indices and numerals combine with the generous use of nonradioactive Super-LumiNova luminous material to minimize the chance of misreading, even in poor visibility conditions. In addition, a sevenfold antireflective coating and an extra hard-coated treatment protect the sapphire crystal.
The 1919 Globetimer UTC All Black is also powered by the Porsche Design Caliber Werk 04.110. The movement is equipped with a bidirectional winding rotor. It builds up a 38-hour power reserve with its balance paced at four hertz. The front of the caliber is equipped with an innovative time-zone mechanism specially developed by Porsche Design and manufactured by the Swiss complication specialist Dubois- Dépraz.
Before starting serial production, the mechanisms underwent several long-term tests in compliance with the strict criteria of Chronofiable®. The impact test’s candidates receive a blow equivalent to nearly 5,000 times their own weight, while each push-piece must withstand at least 10,000 switching cycles.
Before encasing, each movement must also prove its timekeeping accuracy for fifteen consecutive days at the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The caliber must not lose more than four, nor gain more than six seconds per day, throughout the fifteen- day trial. During this time, the movement undergoes testing in five different positions and at three different temperatures.
The 42-millimeter titanium case with a black titanium carbide coating perfectly pairs with the black leather strap made of high-quality Porsche car leather. The watch is water-resistant to 100 meters.
The 1919 Globetimer UTC All Black is available at a starting price of 6,250 EUR (RRP).
Vacheron Constantin revisits the fine historical traditions of Geneva watchmaking with the new Traditionnelle complete calendar openface watch. Boasting a new open-worked sapphire face, this new timepiece is available in two versions in 18K 5N pink gold and 18K white gold.
Classically inspired with its round case featuring a fluted back, its railway minute-track and its Dauphine-type hands, the Traditionnelle complete calendar openface model adopts an avant-garde profile. The open-worked sapphire dial reveals Calibre 2460 QCL/2, whose mainplate and bridges are highlighted by anthracite NAC treatment. The triple calendar display, complemented by a precision moon phase, gains in depth through its functional and contemporary style.
Combining contemporary design and watchmaking heritage, this new interpretation is reminiscent of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar model presented in 2019.
The Traditionnelle complete calendar openface watch proudly highlight characteristic features of the Traditionnelle collection – including the stepped round case and lugs, the fluted caseback, the slim bezel, the railway minute-track, the bi-facetted Dauphine-type hands and the gold baton-style hour-markers. The opening onto the movement structure is perfectly visible on both sides of the watch and features an anthracite grey colour achieved by NAC treatment.
Surrounded by a slate grey opaline flange on which a central hand points to the date, the upper part of the sapphire crystal dial features a likewise slate grey guilloché segment as well as applied gold hour-markers.
The resulting three-part dial overlooks the sapphire discs providing an aperture-type display of the days and months. The moon-phase disc, with its two realistic transferred depictions of Earth’s satellite, is also covered by a translucent sapphire mask. This airy construction provides a chance to admire the various movement components, including the bridges and mainplate featuring an original vertical upright finish on the front.
The “openface” design highlights the technical nature of the Traditionnelle complete calendar openface watch. This complication, also known as the triple calendar, indicates the date, day and month, complemented on these models by a moon phase.
Water-resistant to 30 metres, these two Traditionnelle complete calendar openface models are fitted with a calfskin-lined grey alligator strap secured by a pink or white gold pin buckle.
Model: Traditionnelle complete calendar openface
Calibre 2460 QCL/2
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
29 mm (11¼’’’) diameter, 5.45 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Complete calendar (day of the week, date, month)
Precision moon phase
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold
41 mm diameter, 10.7 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Assembled in three parts:
– Slate grey guilloche upper part
– Slate grey opaline flange
– Sapphire crystal with 18K gold hour-markers
18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers, hour & minutes hands
18K gold blackened date hand with white crescent
Franck Muller has collaborated with Bamford Watch Department to create a limited edition Crazy Hours watch inspired by Snoopy.
This Snoopy-inspired Franck Muller Crazy Hours model is full of unique characteristics. Its dial spotlights Snoopy along with the unorthodox placement of numerical hour markers. The complex and clever mechanical movement which allows the hour hand to jump to the next in the correct order is further highlighted with Snoopy’s arms as the hour and minutes hands.
Snoopy’s faithful sidekick, Woodstock, features twice on the dial and surrounding Snoopy are luminous concentric circles bringing the dial even more to life when in the dark.
On a matte black stainless steel case, Snoopy and Woodstock are bold to the eye in black and white on a black dial with grey numerals and text. Paired with a black hand-sewn fabric strap, every part of this design has been carefully, and playfully, designed.
This 25-piece limited edition is housed in a unique box with a splash of colour highlighting the Crazy Hours design, as well as Snoopy and Woodstock making an appearance.
Model: Crazy Hours Cintrée Curvex
Type: 8880 CH
MVD FM 2800-CHR, Self-winding movement with bidirectional rotor system, 42 hour power reserve, 274 components, 19 jewels, Balance wheel frequency set at 28,800 alternations per hour
Côtes de Geneve and brushing soleil papier on the bridges, Circular graining on the two sides of the main plate, Chamfering of the bridges, 24k gold bath and rhodium plating of the component, 24k gold finish on the written engravings, Brushing soleil papier of the rotor ball bearing and on the barrel, Polished and blued screws
Material: Matte Black Stainless Steel, Hand Brushed, Rhodium Plating
Crown: Matte Black Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire Crystal
Case diameter: 39.6mm
Caseback: Matte Black Stainless Steel
Water-resistance: 30 ATM
Lined Super Luminova, GL Black, Numerals meticulously painted and applied by hand
Uncoordinated jumping hours, minutes
Black Hand Sewn Fabric Strap
Buckle: Brushed Matte Black Stainless Steel, Hand Polished, Rhodium Plating
The Rotonda collection concludes a year of new mechanical timepieces to celebrate the 90th anniversary of Swiss watch brand Delbana.
The Rotonda takes inspiration from the Latin word rotunda, used to describe buildings with a circular ground plan, often covered by a dome. From early architectural marvels like the Pantheon in Rome and fortified towers of Switzerland’s Chillon Castle to modern day marvels such as the Adler Planetarium in Chicago, the shape of the circle gives a unique perspective from inside and out.
The Delbana Rotonda entices the wearer to admire fine details on a much smaller scale. The captivating black guilloche pattern in the center of the dial contrasts the silver perimeter similar to a skylight giving visibility to the stars and beyond.
Providing a new interpretation of a similar model launched in the 1950’s, which stood out for its distinctive black center, the Rotonda is enlarged for contemporary enjoyment and appointed with new details. The applied indexes and cathedral shaped hands are accented with powerful luminous highlights. A black genuine leather strap completes the design.
The elegantly curved and polished stainless steel case is consistent with the other special 90th anniversary timepieces, the Recordmaster and Della Balda, all powered by a Delbana engraved automatic movement.
Polished stainless-steel case with transparent case back
Scratch-resistant, domed sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 50m / 165ft
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 11.5 mm
Silver dial with black centered guilloche pattern
Applied indexes, Arabic numerals and luminous hour markers
Date at 3 o’clock
Cathedral shaped, luminous minute and hour hands, red-tipped, central seconds hand
Genuine black patent leather strap with stainless steel buckle
Automatic Sellita SW200 movement with date and Delbana customized rotor
26 Jewels, 28’800 vibrations per hour, 38h power reserve.
After the launch of the “LAB Peripheral Dual Time Big Date”, which marked the introduction of a new watch collection featuring a casual-chic style, Swiss brand Perrelet expands this family with a new model displaying the useful date function at 6 o’clock.
Perrelet is well-known for its different interpretations of dynamic dials which boast functional or decorative rotors on the front of the watch. And the new LAB Peripheral collection also respects this famous hallmark that identifies all of the Bienne-based company’s creations.
Flagship of the “LAB Peripheral 3-Hands & Date” is its innovative peripheral rotor. More discreet and sober, visible on the dial-side without compromising the vision of time, this refined version of the oscillating weight dances gracefully underneath the hour indices around the rim of its display according to the rhythm of the owner’s wrist.
The “LAB Peripheral 3-Hands & Date” comes in a 42 mm x 42mm cushion-shaped case in polished/brushed stainless steel or with an eye-catching razor grey PVD coating, decorated with embossed rectangles on the case-band and water resistant to 5 ATM.
Framed by a polished octagonal bezel with satin-brushed profile, its clean dial is offered in two colour variations: black and silver. Its multilayer structure adds depth to the display further enhanced by the different decorations: the vertical lines of the central disc are in relief and surrounded by a matt sandblasted ring, the luminescent indices are applied to the centre and suspended towards the minute flange, the oscillating weight is embellished with engraved oblique grooves. The end result is an elegant, harmonious and well-proportioned dial.
The oscillating mass observable on the dial-side is made possible thanks to the clever in-house manufacture self-winding movement, calibre P- 411, beating at 28.800 vibrations per hour and offering 42-hour of power reserve. The rotor on ball bearings, a 180° plate’s segment, is fixed to a wheel with toothing inside, which engages with a pinion on the outer rim of the movement and transmits the energy to the gear-train winding the mainspring.
The case back sapphire crystal offers view of the movement’s rhodium-plated bridges with Côtes de Genève finishing, 3N gold engravings and its balance wheel in action.
The “LAB Peripheral 3-Hands & Date” is completed by a black calf leather strap with alligator pattern and white stitching, closed by a folding buckle customised with the brand’s logo.
Model: LAB PERIPHERAL 3-HANDS & DATE
Ref. A110o/1: Stainless steel case, silver dial
Ref. A110o/3: Stainless steel case, black dial
Ref. A1102/1: Stainless steel case with razor grey PVD coating, black dial
Ref. A1102/2: Stainless steel case with razor grey PVD coating, silver dial
Manufacture Perrelet P-411 caliber, mechanical automatic movement
Fitting diameter: 31.60 mm
Total diameter: 34.80 mm
Thickness, including oscillating weight: 5.02 mm
Vibrations per hour: 28.800 (4Hz)
Number of Components: 243
Power reserve: 42 hours
Balance-wheel shock protection system: Incabloc
Circular-grained and rhodium plated mainplate
Bridges: Côtes de Genève, rhodium-plated with 3N gold engraving
Oscillating weight: rhodium plated, circular-brushed, engraved grooves pattern
Central hours, minutes and seconds hands
Date window at 6 o’clock
Cushion-shaped, polished-brushed stainless steel or razor grey PVD coating depending on the version, octagonal bezel
Size: 42mm x 42mm
Thickness: 13.51 mm
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal glass on both sides
Case-back with sapphire crystal glass, secured by 6 screws
Water resistance: 5 ATM
Two color variations: silver and black
Central part with vertical decoration in relief and circular-brushed rim, surrounded by a matt sandblasted ring
Cut-out hour-markers filled with SuperLuminova
Luminescent hours and minutes hands
Central seconds hand
Silver or black flange for seconds indication on a scale of 5
Peripheral oscillating weight visible on dial-side, engraved grooves decoration
Date window at 6 o’clock (white disc with black Arabic numerals on silver dial or black disc with white Arabic numerals on black dial)
Black calf leather strap with alligator pattern and white stitching
Stainless steel folding clasp embellished with the Perrelet logo matching the case
Ref. A110o/1 -Euro 3.880,00
Ref. A110o/3 -Euro 3.880,00
Ref. A1102/1 – Euro 3.980,00
Ref. A1102/2 – Euro 3.980,00
Patek Philippe presents a state-of-the-art Minute Repeater watch developed by its “Advanced Research” department.
For this new acoustic complication watch, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” has developed a totally new all-mechanical sound amplifying system. This fortissimo “ff” module consists of a flexibly suspended sound lever and an oscillating wafer made of transparent sapphire-crystal glass. In comparison with conventional minute repeaters and regardless of the case material, it delivers clearly amplified sound of excellent acoustic quality.
Carrying four patents, the ground-breaking technology is presented in the Ref. 5750 “Advanced Research” minute repeater, a special limited edition consisting of 15 watches cased in platinum and endowed with a unique dial design.
Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” Innovations for Minute repeaters
(1) A sound amplification system with a sapphire-crystal oscillating wafer
Departing from the famous self-winding caliber R 27, the movement with which Patek Philippe in 1989 ushered in the grand comeback of the minute repeater, the engineers and designers at Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” searched for a way to amplify the volume of the time strike in a purely mechanical manner while preserving the excellent acoustic quality as well as the smallest possible dimensions.
After several technical forays in various directions, they decided to preserve the design of the base movement and then on the bridge side (the side facing the wrist) to add a module that works like a mechanical loudspeaker. But unlike normal loudspeakers, the amplification of the sound does not rely on a flexible diaphragm which like the skin of a drum is attached along its periphery. Instead of a membrane, the system for which Patek Philippe registered three patents has an oscillating wafer made of synthetic sapphire with a thickness of 0.2 mm.
Thanks to its angular motion, this rigid and freely movable wafer provides clearly better sound propagation for the confined volume of a wristwatch. The transparency of the sapphire glass also preserves the unobstructed view of the movement through the case back. To implement this heavily miniaturized system, the developers had to master considerable challenges, both in design and in production.
(2) A flexibly suspended sound lever
To achieve sound transmission from the gongs of the minute repeater to the sapphire-glass oscillating wafer, the engineers developed a system with a steel sound lever that is attached in the middle of the oscillating wafer. The other end of this sound lever that resembles a tuning fork features a flexible attachment with a thickness of 0.08 mm.
When the hammers strike the gongs, their oscillations are transmitted to the sound lever which in a first phase amplifies them and transmits them to the rigid oscillating wafer where they are further amplified. The angular motion of the oscillating wafer excites the air layers above and beneath the sapphire glass, producing a noticeably louder sound.
(3) A new type of sound propagation
Parallel to the integration of the fortissimo “ff” amplifier module, the team also developed a totally new sound propagation system. In a classic minute repeater, the strikes of the hammers on the gongs create oscillations of the entire watch. The sound is propagated on all sides by the case, the back, and the crystal glass.
Therefore, the case material has a significant influence on the sound, whereby rose gold is considered the best precious metal for sound propagation while platinum, with its higher material density, presents the greatest acoustic challenge. In the minute repeater with the fortissimo module, an insulation rim made of a high-tech composite material acoustically uncouples the amplifier from the movement. The sound is first routed to the sound lever and then to the oscillating wafer and subsequently propagated through four openings at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock in a titanium ring.
The sound waves exit through a narrow slot between the case back and the case band. A dust filter protects the movement without affecting the sound. So the case material does not influence the sound and its propagation. It is always of the same quality, regardless of whether the case material is rose, yellow, or white gold or platinum.
(4) A distinctly louder and totally harmonious sound
The fortissimo module attached in the case back allows the sound to be heard at a six-fold larger distance. So a classic minute repeater on the wrist, at a distance of 10 m, sounds as loud and clear as an amplified minute repeater at a distance of 60 m. The manufacture also leveraged its rich experience in the domain of chiming watches to create a reverberating sound that also pleases the ear; this requires considerable dexterity and acute hearing.
Even though the sound amplified by the fortissimo module differs slightly from that of other minute repeaters, it offers the harmonic quality and acoustic richness that underpin the unique reputation of Patek Philippe minute repeaters and arouse enthusiasm with a long resonant fade out relative to the “attack” (hardness). Additionally, the maximum duration of the time strike (32 strikes at 12:59) – it usually lasts 17 to 18 seconds – was extended to 20 to 21 seconds, allowing the gongs to fade somewhat longer.
(5) Platinum components
Apart from the additional fortissimo module, the caliber R 27 PS benefits from further technical enhancements with respect to materials and design factors. The minute repeater hammers, originally in steel, were replaced with platinum hammers, a patented solution that in this specific case improves the quality of the strike in line with the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal and produces a softer strike as well without reducing its sonority. A minirotor in platinum replaces the eccentrically recessed minirotor in 22K gold; thanks to the greater material density, it delivers the same winding power with a thinner design. With it, the thickness of the fortissimo module can at least be partially offset.
Ref. 5750P Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater
The Ref. 5750P Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” minute repeater comes in a sleek case with a slightly domed bezel. It is inspired by the Ref. 5178 minute repeater with cathedral gongs, has the same diameter of 40 mm. However, with a height of 11.1 mm, it is 0.57 mm thicker. To demonstrate the efficiency of the fortissimo system, the manufacture opted for platinum, the material that poses the greatest acoustic challenges. It is a limited edition of 15 watches.
In its center, the five-part elaborately constructed dial features an openworked motif inspired by the spoked wheels of vintage automobiles. It stands out against the black background with snailed spiraling lines. The subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock consists of a rotating disc with the same open-worked motif against a black snailed background and a small marker that serves as a hand – a movable element which creates a unique, dynamic effect. The time is indicated by flat Dauphine hands in white gold and applied kite-type hour markers in blackened white gold.
The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the hammers and the classic gongs of the minute repeater as well as the sound lever in the shape of a tuning fork that carries the transparent oscillating wafer of the fortissimo amplifier system. A pierced Calatrava cross decorates the cover of the centrifugal governor that assures the regular rhythm of the time strikes. The spectacular outlook also shows the Gyromax® balance spring in Silinvar® launched in 2006 by Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” as well as the large bridge with Geneva striping and carefully chamfered and polished edges.
The platinum minirotor sports a ray pattern in the style of the dial; it was created with a laser-based light-absorbing surface texturing technique that allows certain segments to appear black. This limited special edition is worn on a shiny orange alligator strap with black contrast seams and a platinum fold-over clasp.
Loudspeaker with freely oscillating wafer: PCT/EP2021/066501 – TIMEPIECE COMPONENT COMPRISING A SOUND AMPLIFICATION DEVICE.
Platinum hammers: CH00153/21 – STRIKEWORK MECHANISM COMPRISING A STRIKEWORK HAMMER AND A STRIKEWORK GONG, IN REFERENCE TO SAID STRIKEWORK HAMMER AND IN REFERENCE TO SAID STRIKEWORK GONG.
Helical gongs with a coplanar attachment assure the balanced amplification of the hour and minute strikes
EP21203307.0 – BOSSED GONG ASSEMBLY FOR THE STRIKING MECHANISM OF A MOVEMENT
About Patek Philippe “Advanced Research”
Founded in 2005, the Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” department has meanwhile been integrated in the Research & Development division and vested with the task of pursuing high-end research in the fields of new materials, technologies, and conceptual fundamentals intended to open totally new perspectives in the domain of watchmaking.
To attain these objectives, the manufacture has established unique competencies, called together its best specialists, and provided them with the latest technical resources, including instruments required for computer simulation. The engineers at Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” also collaborate with independent external research facilities such as the Centre suisse d’électronique et de microtechnique de Neuchâtel (CSEM) or the Federal Institute of Technology Lausanne (EPFL).
Since 2005, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” has stood out with pioneering work in the innovative field of Silinvar®, a derivative of silicon with phenomenal characteristics for watchmaking applications (temperature compensating, lightweight, lubricant-free, antimagnetic, etc.).
Concurrently, the manufacture presented the first escape wheel in Silinvar® (2005), followed by the Spiromax® balance spring (2006), the Pulsomax® escapement (2008), the Oscillomax® ensemble (2011), and a further optimized version of the Spiromax® balance spring (2017). Each of these technology leaps was accompanied by the launch of a wristwatch in limited editions that were the first to be endowed with the innovative components. In the meantime, most of the movements for the current Patek Philippe watch collections are equipped with Spiromax® balance springs made of Silinvar®.
In 2017, in a totally different field of research, Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” developed a compliant mechanism (system with flexible articulations) made of conventional horological steel that in Patek Philippe watches with two time zones is used to set the second time zone. This technical innovation was launched in the limited-edition watch that also first featured the optimized Spiromax® balance spring.
Patek Philippe “Advanced Research”: key achievements
Silinvar® is a novel, patented material based on monocrystalline silicon. It was developed in collaboration with Rolex, the Swatch Group, and CSEM in Neuchâtel, and is suitable for applications in watchmaking.
Thanks to a patented oxidation process that causes molecular changes in the outmost layers, it has temperature-compensating characteristics. In the temperature range from -10°C to +60°C, components made of Silinvar® are highly stable – or invariable as suggested by its name (Silinvar® = silicon + invariable).
This advantage is one of several positive characteristics that make Silinvar® a true super material for horology.
• Silinvar® is very lightweight and has merely a third of the mass of steel. Silinvar® watch components can therefore be moved with less energy and react less sensitively to the earth’s gravitation.
• Silinvar® is twice as hard as steel and thus more wear-resistant.
• Silinvar® cannot be magnetized and is thus insensitive to magnetic fields.
• Silinvar® is corrosion-resistant.
• In microstructures, Silinvar® is very flexible but does not deform permanently. It is therefore very shock-resistant and dimensionally stable.
• Silinvar® components are manufactured with the DRIE process. Deep Reactive Ion Etching produces components of consistently identical shape and quality.
• Thanks to the DRIE process and the know-how accrued in this domain, Silinvar® components can be manufactured with tolerances of less than 1/1000 mm.
2005: First escape wheel in Silinvar®
This new part improves dependability because it requires no lubricants. It also reduces the mass to be moved (better efficiency), is corrosion-resistant, and remains perfectly concentric. Launch of the Ref. 5250 Annual Calendar Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with a Silinvar® escape wheel in a limited edition of 100 watches.
2006: Spiromax® balance spring in Silinvar®
• Optimized rate accuracy by improved isochronism thanks to concentric breathing (expansion and contraction) of the balance spring.
• Lighter balance spring, less sensitive to external factors such as shocks and gravity.
• Flat design, three times thinner than a Breguet hairspring.
• Patented geometry (Patek Philippe boss at the outer end, integrated stud attachment, self-centering integrated collet) for attachment to the balance staff.
Launch of the Ref. 5350 Annual Calendar Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with a Spiromax® balance spring and an escape wheel made of Silinvar® in a limited edition of 300 watches.
Meanwhile, the internally produced Spiromax® balance spring has been integrated in most Patek Philippe movement families, especially in calibers 300 (Grandmaster Chime), 301 (Grande Sonnerie), R 27 (except the R TO 27), 240, 28-520, 324, 26-330, 31-260, 25-21, 215 and 30-255.
2008: Pulsomax® escapement in Silinvar®
• Optimized geometry of escape wheel and lever
• Increase of energy efficiency by 15%
Launch of the Ref. 5450 Annual Calendar Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with a Pulsomax® escapement and a Spiromax® balance spring in a limited edition of 300 watches.
2011: Oscillomax® ensemble (Pulsomax® escapement with GyromaxSi balance and Spiromax® balance spring)
With respect to precision adjustment, the GyromaxSi® balance preserves all of the advantages of the Gyromax® balance that was patented in 1951 (adjustment by changing the moment of inertia of the balance, no impact on the active length of the balance spring.
• Optimization of the advantages of the Gyromax® principle by a mass reduction near the balance staff thanks to a lightweight Silinvar® chassis.
• Concentration of the active mass on the outside edge thanks to pure gold inlays.
• Aerodynamic optimization of the balance with a 15% power gain.
• Change of the moment of inertia with four asymmetric poising weights
• All proven advantages of the Spiromax® balance spring and of the Pulsomax® escapement.
New Spiromax® balance spring thanks to an inner boss (thicker part at the inner end) to improve isochronism of the balance in the vertical positions. This progress is the subject of several patents, allowing a rate accuracy of -1 to +2 seconds per day in comparison with a Patek Philippe Tourbillon watch.
Launch of Ref. 5650 Aquanaut Travel Time Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with a compliant mechanism for setting the time zone and optimized Spiromax® balance spring in a limited edition of 500 watches. Since then, the optimized Spiromax® balance spring has been integrated in most Patek Philippe movements, especially in calibers 240, 215, 28-520 and 324.
2017: Correctors with compliant mechanism in steel
Compliant mechanism for correcting the time zones. It utilizes the elasticity of materials in microstructures and replaces articulations with pivots and leaf springs. This technical development offers numerous advantages: simplified assembly (12 parts as opposed to 37 previously), flatter design, no mechanical play, no friction, no arbor wear, which results in totally lubricant-free functionality and excellent energy efficiency.
Launch of Ref. 5650 Aquanaut Travel Time Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” with a compliant mechanism for setting the time zone and optimized Spiromax® balance spring in a limited edition of 500 watches.
Model: Ref. 5750 Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater
Limited edition of 15 pieces
Caliber R 27 PS
Self-winding mechanical movement. Minute repeater with classic gongs and small seconds
Patented fortissimo “ff” system for sound amplification and propagation consisting of a flexibly suspended sound lever, a transparent sapphire-glass oscillating wafer, a composite insulating rim and four sound openings in a titanium ring.
Diameter: 28 mm
Height: 6.05 mm
Number of parts: 342
Number of jewels: 39
Power reserve: Min. 43 hours, max. 48 hours
Winding rotor: Minirotor in 950 platinum with laser texture, unidirectional winding
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)
Balance spring stud: Adjustable
With hands: Center hours and minutes
With disk: Subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock
• Pushed home: To wind the watch
• Pulled out: To set the time
Patek Philippe Seal
Sapphire-crystal case back
Minute-repeater slide in left-hand case flank
Not water-resistant, protected against moisture and dust
Diamond at 6 o’clock
Case dimensions: Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.1 mm
Width between lugs: 21 mm
White gold, black nickel-plated snailed base, open-worked ray motif, hand-guilloched edging, hour circle with circular satin finish
Applied kite-type hour markers in blackened 18K white gold
Flat Dauphine hour and minute hands in 18K white gold, black transfer-printed
Subsidiary seconds disk with marker at 6 o’clock
Hand-stitched alligator leather with large square scales, shiny orange with black contrast stitching, 950 platinum foldover clasp
To commemorate 170 years of its alliance with Tiffany & Co., Patek Philippe has created a limited-edition run of Ref. 5711/1A-018 Nautilus wristwatches in steel endowed with famous Tiffany Blue® dials. Unique to these timepieces is the dual stamping of both companies, “Tiffany & Co.” at 6 o’clock paired with Patek Philippe at 12 o’clock. Introduced in 2006, the best selling Nautilus Ref. 5711 series will be retired from the collection in 2022.
The horizontal relief embossed dial is amplified by baton hour markers as well as baton hour and minute hands, all in blackened white gold with luminous coatings and features. The peerless design of the case, the bezel, and the integrated steel bracelet is highlighted by the refined sequence of satin-finished and polished links.
The rugged case is water-resistant to 120 meters. It accommodates the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C, a movement that features various technical innovations and optimizations as well as a stop-seconds mechanism that allows the time to be set with one-second accuracy. The sapphire-crystal case back bears the commemorative inscription “170th Anniversary 1851-2021 Tiffany & Co. – Patek Philippe“.
Only a quantity of 170 units will be available exclusively in the Tiffany boutiques in New York, Beverly Hills, and San Francisco that carry Patek Philippe.
Tiffany & Co. auctioned off one of the commemorative watches with Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo on December 11th, with 100% of proceeds benefitting The Nature Conservancy, a global environmental organization. It was sold for $6.5 million, making it the highest value watch to sell online at any auction house.
Both Patek Philippe (1839) and Tiffany & Co. (1837) were founded within two years of one another. From the onset, the Genevan manufacture and the American jeweler have always shared the same values: a quest for perfection, a passion for artisanal skills and a top-tier appreciation and service for customers.
In 1851, Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. forged an agreement that made the American jeweler the first official retail partner for Patek Philippe timepieces in the U.S. market. On the occasion of the first business trip to the new world, Antoine Norbert de Patek reasserted the special nature of the relationship and paid a visit to Charles Lewis Tiffany in New York. On his departure, he was deeply impressed by the business volume of the luxury jewelry retailer and by a large order of 150 watches.
In 1876, the two companies signed a new agreement that appointed Tiffany & Co. the general representative for the United States “who safeguards the interests of Patek Philippe & Cie. as if they were its own interests”. Conversely, the Genevan company pledged to safeguard the American jeweler’s interests as evidenced by the huge façade sign “Agents for Tiffany & Co., New York” at Patek Philippe’s historic headquarters facing the Grand Quai. On the premises of the same Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva, there is further proof of the solid transatlantic relationship: a large steel vault formerly owned by Tiffany & Co. and decorated by an American eagle sporting two flags.
In the period from 1900 to 1930, Tiffany & Co. also played a key role in the relationships between Patek Philippe and major American timepiece collectors such as Henry Graves Junior for whom the manufacture crafted an extensive range of complicated watches. In 1946, the grandfather of the manufacture’s current president Thierry Stern founded the Henri Stern Watch Agency in New York. It actively nurtured the continuation of the successful partnership.
In 2008, Patek Philippe intensified its relationship with the American jeweler and opened a boutique within the famous Tiffany retail venue on Fifth Avenue that is currently undergoing extensive renovation. The manufacture’s complete current collection can be admired here.
Since the beginning of the third millennium, Patek Philippe created several limited special editions for the American partner; they recall important dates and bear dual stamps for both brands. Today, Tiffany & Co. is the world’s only retailer, whose name appears on a Patek Philippe dial, making these watches highly sought-after with collectors.
The previous limited editions Patek Philippe made especially for Tiffany & Co.
2001: Refs. 5150R, 5150J & 5150G – 450 watches
Launched in 2001 to celebrate the 150th year of partnership between the two companies, the Ref. 5150 Annual Calendar was the first limited edition created by Patek Philippe for a U.S. retailer. As a special feature, the month indication was shown as a numeral. A total of 450 watches were made: 150 in rose gold, 150 in yellow gold, and 150 in white gold.
2009: Refs. 4987G-001 & 4987G-010 – 100 watches
Launched in 2009 on the occasion of the first anniversary of the Patek Philippe Boutique at Tiffany & Co. on Fifth Avenue in New York, this art deco-inspired Gondolo ladies’ wristwatch featured a tonneau case and a guilloched dial decorated with a two-row diamond setting. Fifty watches with white and 50 with black dials were created.
2012: Refs. 4987G-011 & 4987G-012 – 50 watches
Presented in 2012 on the occasion of the fifth anniversary of the Patek Philippe Boutique at Tiffany & Co. on Fifth Avenue in New York (2013), this Gondolo ladies’ wristwatch features art deco accents and a slightly cambered tonneau-shaped case with two rows of diamonds and large rhythmically arranged Roman numerals. Its edition was limited to 25 watches with a blue sunburst dial and 25 watches with a mother-of-pearl dial.
2012: Ref. 5396G-012 – 100 watches
This white gold men’s watch with an Annual Calendar comes in a limited edition of 100 timepieces. It displays the day of the week and the month in a double aperture at 12 o’clock and has an analog date at 6 o’clock. The back is graced with the engraved inscription “Patek Philippe – A Shared Vision – 2008-2013 – that recalls the fifth anniversary of the Patek Philippe Boutique at Tiffany & Co. on Fifth Avenue.
Model: Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.”
Limited to 170 watches
Caliber 26-330 S C
Self-winding mechanical movement, sweep seconds, and aperture date
Diameter: 27 mm
Height: 3.3 mm
Number of parts: 212
Number of jewels: 30
Power reserve: Min. 35 hours, max. 45 hours
Winding rotor: Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax® in Silinvar®
Balance spring stud: Adjustable
• Pushed home: To wind the watch
• Pulled halfway out: Rapid date correction
• Pulled all the way out: Handsetting with stop seconds
Hours, minutes, and sweep seconds
Date aperture at 3 o’clock
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Sapphire-crystal caseback with inscription “170th Anniversary 1851-2021 Tiffany & Co. – Patek Philippe”
Water resistant to 120 m (12 bar)
Case dimensions: Diameter (10 to 4 o’clock): 40 mm
Height: 8.3 mm
Dial plate in brass with Tiffany Blue® lacquer and with horizontal Nautilus embossing
Black printed signatures “Patek Philippe Genève” at 12 o’clock and “Tiffany & Co.” at 6 o’clock.
12 applied baton-style hour markers in blackened 18K white gold, luminous coating
Baton-style hour and minute hands in black nickel-plated 18K white gold, luminous coating
Seconds hand in black nickel-plated Pfinodal, counterbalanced
Hydro-Sub, the iconic Edox diving watch from the 1960s, is making a spectacular return with a new chronometer.
The Hydro-Sub Automatic Chronometer Limited Edition blends its new, improved and contemporary characteristics with the timelessly cool DNA of the original 1960s Hydro-Sub.
The new watch is available in a limited edition of 500 pieces, engraved with “one out of 500” on the case back. It has a water-resistance of 300m. The innovations that made the original Hydro-Sub so impressive, such as the screw-down crown with double O-ring seal, have been retained and perfected.