Makina MEPHISTO Limited Edition

Introduced in 2017, MEPHISTO is an automatic watch produced by Filipino watch brand Makina in a limited series of 500 pieces. It has a 42mm stainless steel case with an automatic Miyota movement beating inside.

Makina MEPHISTO Limited Edition

Topped with a flat sapphire crystal glass, the three-dimensional dial in blue sunburst color features cut-out and embossed surfaces to display Arabic numerals and geometric shaped hour-markers.

Technical details

Model: Makina MEPHISTO

Case
42mm stainless steel case
Hand-brushed finish in multiple directions
Flat and scratch resistant sapphire crystal with ant-reflective coating
Water resistance: 50 meters

Dial
3 Dimensional, blue sunburst dial
Arabic number markers for 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10 and 11
Triangle marker for 12 o’ clock
Rectangular markers for 3, 6 and 9
Centre hour, minutes and seconds hands
Hour markers, hour-hand and minute-hand with luminescent coating

Movement
Automatic mechanical movement, Miyota 8215, with a custom rotor design
21 jewels

Strap
Genuine calf leather strap
Polished stainless steel buckle

Retail price
USD $599.00

Tavannes Watch Co. Submarine Commander 1917

The Submarine Commander 1917 watch from the Tavannes Watch Co. pays tribute to a historical watch model launched during the First World War.

During World War I, the Tavannes Watch Company was approached by the British Navy to develop a specific watch for the use of their submarine officers. The watch had to respond to the following technical requirements, unavailable during this time period:-

  • Water resistance: High moisture levels in submarines
  • High pressure resistance: Extremely high pressure level underwater
  • Anti-magnetic: Large magnetic engines in submarines
  • Sturdiness on the wrist: Requirements by the British Navy
  • Maximum legibility day/night: Low lighting in submarines

The Submarine Commander is the first water resistant watch, sold since 1917 and was created for the British Navy in 1915.

 

100 years later Tavannes Watch Co created a new modernized edition of this legendary watch, keeping all the key elements of the original one.

Historic requirements of the British Navy are gathered in this new Submarine Commander, both in functional and in aesthetic criteria.

This timepiece features a three-piece water resistant construction with screw back, screw-down crown, and screw bezel. Knurling on the case back and bezel offers better gripping of screwed parts. The watch boasts a water resistance of 10 ATM or 100m/330ft.

The watch boasts commemorative engravings for the 100 years of the first Submarine Commander on the inner crystal flange and the back case. Adding aesthetic beauty to the watch the red gaskets on the crown and crystal are also wear indicators for internal gaskets. When gasket’s color fades to pink it is time to service the watch. All gaskets should be replaced.

The Submarine Commander 1917 watch boasts a black dial featuring large white Arabic Numerals for easy time reading with good visibility of the elements. The wide and differentiated hands provide maximum surface area for SuperLuminova and optimal distinction of hours and minutes. Second, 12 and Tavannes logo in red refers to the historic aesthetic codes of the brand. The colored gaskets act as wear indicators.

As its military ancestor, the new Submarine Commander has welded lugs and a one piece NATO band. These features are consistent with wear sturdiness criteria originally demanded by the British Royal Navy:-

  • Welded lugs in the shape of handles
  • No spring bar that can jump
  • One piece NATO Bracelet
  • Wide adjustment range
  • Maximum resistance to tearing
  • Easy change without disassembly

This type of band, first made of leather was named G-10 according to the reference of the G10-98 form that was used by the military to order them. It was nicknamed “NATO” by a general consensus, referring to NATO, North Atlantic Treaty Organization.

In addition to its robustness the NATO TAVANNES band is designed to be adapted to all sizes. Its 15- holes adjustment range can fit from the smallest to the largest wrist.

Another benefit of using a TAVANNES NATO band is the possibility to change straps in less than one minute without a tool. You can wear a nylon strap to work out and change it to a leather strap for abusiness appointment in seconds.

The new Submarine Commander was designed to commemorate its predecessor released 100 years earlier, for two British Submarine Commanders. For this reason the Submarine Commander includes several commemorative features.

Technical details

Movement
ETA 2824 STD / SW200
Swiss Made Automatic Movement- Date quantième, hours, minutes and Sweep second display in the center – Ball bearing self-winding system and corrector – Stop second device –
Regulator system ETACHRON with regulator corrector

Case
Biocompatible stainless steel
Size: 41mm
Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective treatment
Water resistance: 10 ATM, 100m, 330ft – Suitable for swimming and snorkeling but NOT suitable for sub-aqua diving

Two finishes available
– Polished steel Faithful to its ancestry
– PVD matte black Pushes the concept of a stealthy military watch (PVD = Physical Vapor Deposition)

Bracelet
NATO G-10
– Nylon braided black and red
– Nylon braided black
– Black lamb leather
– Brown lamb leather

Dial
Black – SuperLuminova Indexes

Large Arabic Numerals
– Easy time reading
– Good visibility of the elements
Wide and differentiated hands
– Maximum surface area for SuperLuminova
– Optimal distinction of hours and minutes
Second, 12 and Tavannes logo in red
– Refers to the historic aesthetic codes of the brand
Colored gaskets as wear indicators
– Whitening of the elements through time
– Whitened gasket = need to service the watch
TW black lacquered pattern
– Brings depth to the dial without disturbing reading
White Arabic numerals on black background
– Optimal reading contrast
– Easy time reading
12 dial index in red on a small 1920’s Tavannes Watch

References and price
Ref. Number TA A07.111/ST02: Price USD 2500
Ref. Number TA A07.111/ST02LTD: 100th Anniversary Limited Edition – 100 pieces. Price USD 1995. Now sold out.
Ref. Number: TA A07.111/STBP02: Black Edition. Price USD 2750

Backes & Strauss Victoria Collection – The Lady Victoria and Countess Victoria Timepieces

In 2017, Backes & Strauss updated their Victoria Collection with the Lady Victoria and Countess Victoria Timepieces. The intrinsically feminine Victoria collection is defined by their interlocking heart motif; a design inspired by the Backes & Strauss 19thcentury jewellery.

These timepieces are elegantly slender in their form and pioneering in their design; from the smooth curvature of the Countess Victoria dial to the secret clasp of the Lady Victoria.

Both jewellery watches feature a discreet mother of pearl dial and have four Backes & Strauss signature Ideal cut diamonds set to every quarter of the hour.

In a nostalgic meeting of the past with the present, these horological jewels celebrate true craftsmanship in every minute detail.

Technical details

The Lady Victoria Ruby
Size: 14mm dial Ø
Case: 18k white gold case set with 84 diamonds – 0.80 cts and 32 rubies – 0.43 carats
Dial: Mother-of-pearl centre dial hand set with 4 Ideal-Cut diamond indexes – 0.02 carats
Hands: Sword-shaped hands
Movement: Quartz movement
Display: Hours & minutes
Bracelet: Jewellery interlocking hearts bracelet set with 434white diamonds –3.05 carats and 36 rubies – 2.57 carats.
Total Carats: 590 Ideal-Cut diamonds – 6.87 carats

Lady Victoria Blue Velvet
Size: 14mm dial Ø
Case: 18k white gold case set with 84 white diamonds – 0.80 caratsand 32 sapphires – 0.42 carats.
Dial: Mother-of-pearl centre dial hand set with 4 Ideal-Cut diamond indexes – 0.02 carats
Hands: Sword-shaped hands
Movement: Quartz movement
Display: Hours & minutes
Bracelet: Jewellery interlocking hearts bracelet set with 434white diamonds –3.05 carats and 36 sapphires – 2.60 carats.
Total Carats: 590 diamonds and sapphires – 6.89 carats

The Countess Victoria Imperial Topaz
Size: 14mm dial Ø
Case: 18k white gold case set with 464 diamonds – 2.58 cts and 6 imperial topaz – 7.72 carats
Dial: Mother-of-pearl centre dial hand set with 4 Ideal-Cut diamond indexes – 0.02 carats
Hands: Sword-shaped hands
Movement: Quartz movement
Display: Hours & minutes
Bracelet: satin strap
Buckle: 21 Ideal-Cut diamonds – 0.18 cts
Total Carats: 489 Ideal-Cut diamonds – 2.78 carats and 6 imperial topaz – 7.62 carats

The Countess Victoria Pink Tourmaline
Size: 14mm dial Ø
Case: 18k white gold case set with 464 diamonds – 2.58 cts and 6 pink tourmaline –6.05 carats
Dial: Mother-of-pearl centre dial hand set with 4 Ideal-Cut diamond indexes – 0.02 carats
Hands: Sword-shaped hands
Movement: Quartz movement
Display: Hours & minutes
Bracelet: satin strap
Buckle: 21 Ideal-Cut diamonds – 0.18 cts
Total Carats: 489 Ideal-Cut diamonds – 2.78 carats and 6 pink tourmaline – 6.05 carats

Backes & Strauss “Tears of the African Elephant”

In 2017, Backes & Strauss presented two unique masterpiece watches in support of the Tears of the African Elephant, a Japanese NGO founded by two Japanese ladies with an objective to make awareness in their country regarding the protection of African elephants. Japan is a major market for illegally sourced ivories from Africa. These watches were created with the official support and endorsement of His Royal Highness, The Duke of Cambridge.

Both watches boast the iconic oval-shaped case adorned with two rows of diamonds. The hand-crafted and hand painted dial of each timepiece poetically transports us into the epicenter of the NGO’s campaign. Whilst one timepiece places the African Elephant amidst the trees, the other shows the African Elephant sheltered by the ominous trees.

Backes & Strauss “Tears of the African Elephant” (RE.32.38.MM.D2R.RG)
With its rich red and gold-orange hues, this timepiece boasts a warm colour palette in a visual allusion to Africa. The sky is made of gold leaf deposited on a gold dial. The intricate and detailed sketch of the trees is hand painted by master craftsman. The bottom section of this storytelling dial is enamelled, as is the tusk of the elephant, whilst the rest is set with Backes & Strauss signature ideal cut diamonds. The eye of the elephant is a round brilliant cut emerald from which appears a teardrop made of gold.

Technical details
Size: 32mm x 38mm
Case: 144 round ideal cut diamonds, 1.59 carats
Dial: 109 round ideal cut diamonds, 0.33 carats
Crown: 1 round ideal cut diamond, 0.06 carat
Movement: Manual Winding
Bracelet: Alligator leather
Total: 254 round Ideal Cut diamonds, 1.98 carats

Backes & Strauss “Tears of the African Elephant” (RE.40.47.MM.D2R.RG)
The dial of this timepiece is in gold. The iconographic leaves have been hand- engraved and enameled by the ‘Grand Feu’ technique. Similarly to its counterpart, the tusk is enamelled and the rest of the dial is set with Backes & Strauss signature ideal cut diamonds. The eye of the elephant is a round brilliant cut emerald from which appears a teardrop made of gold.

Technical details
Size: 40mm x 47mm
Case: 136 round ideal cut diamonds, 2.93 carats
Dial: 215 round ideal cut diamonds, 0.82 carats
Crown: 1 round ideal cut diamond, 0.06 carat
Movement: Manual Winding
Bracelet: Alligator leather
Total: 352 round Ideal Cut diamonds, 3.81 carat ABOUT BACKES & STRAUSS

MCT Dōdekal One

Created to mark the tenth anniversary of MCT watches, the Dōdekal One D110 mechanical watch features an innovative digital hours display in the centre of the dial.

Drawing inspiration from 1970s electronic watches, the Dōdekal One is driven by a new Manufacture movement, Calibre D1. The watch houses complex set of cams and carriages to display the hours in the forms of segments in the dial centre, placing this model in a whole new dimension.

The hours transition is effected by the translational motion of the segments over 2.5 seconds, offering an original and magical sight, while the minutes are displayed by a flying hand. A regulating organ serves to enable optimal management of the energy required for these animations, while ensuring a 50-hour power reserve for the self-winding movement, driven by a gold micro-rotor.

The Dōdekal One debuts an elegant cushion-shaped case measuring 43mm along its sides and distinguished by finely crafted lugs shaped like twisted leaves. Available in titanium or titanium black DLC & 5N pink gold, the Dōdekal One – D110 is issued in a 25-piece limited series of each version.

Technical details
Model: Dōdekal One D110
Reference: SQ 43 D110 TI 01 / SQ 43 D110 AB PG 01

Functions
Central digital indication of the hour
Minutes’ indication by a flying hand

Movement
MCT-D1 mechanical self-winding movement, developed and assembled by MCT
18 carat gold micro-rotor
Bridges hand-chamfered and adorned with “Côtes de Genève”
Traditional Breguet terminal curve
Frequency 18,000 A/h (2.5Hz)
Power reserve of 50 hours
62 Rubies

Case
Cushion-shaped case of 43mm x43mm on the edges
Crafted from titanium Grade 5
Front cambered crystal made of sapphire with double anti-reflective coating
Rear crystal made of sapphire with anti-reflective coating on the inside side
Water resistance: 30 metres / 3ATM

Dial
Black dial, white minutes’ index, red minute’s hand (Pink Gold 5N minute’s hand for the 2nd version)
White digital hours

Strap
Alligator inner leather
Deployment clasp

General warranty
3 years

Limited edition
25 pieces of each version

Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second Limited Edition Watch with Ocean Blue Dial

In December 2017, Jaeger-LeCoultre announced a new blue dial version of the Geophysic True Second watch in a limited series of 100 pieces.

The Sunburst patterning on the ocean blue coloured dial creates a play of light that sets off the alternating brushed and polished finishes of the case. The central cross – reminiscent of location-mapping instruments – is a nod to the historic 1958 Geophysic model. It also prolongs the delicacy of the applique hour-markers. Its triple-faceted hands and the minute track around the flange are coated in luminescent material, making it easy to tell the time at night.

Each Geophysic True Second Limited Edition watch houses the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 770, which is equipped with a True Second, a rare complication on an automatic caliber. Its Gyrolab balance wheel of non-circular design replicates the Jaeger-LeCoultre anchor symbol, and demanded a great deal of research in how to reduce the effects of air friction.

This ground-breaking innovation makes the watch significantly more accurate. Very practical for travellers, the jumping hour is set through the crown, without affecting the precision of the minute hand. The oscillating weight of this calibre is made of pink gold, and shaped like an anchor. With its sapphire crystal case-back, this watch offers an elegant view of its movement. The watch comes fitted with a calf-skin strap.

 

HESJY elle-one

HESJY is a small luxury watch brand based in the traditional watch making region Fleurier in Switzerland.  At Basel World 2017, HESJY presented elle-one, the brand’s inaugural collection of watches. The elle-one was designed by Joël Laffly and the movement of the watch was produced by LTM (Le Temps Manufactures) SA located in Fleurier.

HESJY elle-one watch

Especially designed for modern, astute women, this timepiece brilliantly combines freedom and control, simplicity and complexity, smallness and greatness, luxury and restraint, all while respecting long standing traditions in luxury watch making.

HESJY elle-one watches

The rectangular shaped watch case houses the baguette movement LTM 1000, one of the smallest mechanical manual winding calibers in the world.

HESJY elle-one watch baguette movement LTM 1000

This hand-wound movement has a power reserve up to 40 hours and drives hour and minute hands. This tradition rich, Swiss mechanical movement can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back.

HESJY elle-one diamond set watch

The aesthetically elegant and well proportioned case hides a discreet crown, which is visible when viewing from rear side of the watch.

HESJY elle-one diamond set watch with mother of pearl dial

Presented in stainless steel, pink or white gold case and with diamond set versions, the watch is offered in two case sizes: Small version measures 16.8 mm x 29.2 mm and Medium version has dimensions of 20.2 mm x 35 mm. The elle-one is also available with quartz movement.

HESJY elle-one elle full pave watch

Water resistance of the watch is 3 atm. Price range is 870 CHF (price of stainless steel quartz model) to 11770 CHF (price of full diamond set rose gold manual winding model).

DELMA OCEANMASTER

Launched in 2017, the Delma Oceanmaster is a powerful nautical watch created in collaboration with the most talented offshore sailors through the Swiss watch brand’s partnership with the IMOCA Ocean Masters World Championship, one of the toughest sailing races in the world. An expert in the manufacturing of sailing and deep diving watches, Delma is the Official Timekeeper of the racing event.

Taking inspiration from the Shell Star divers’ watch, the Delma Oceanmaster features a helium-valve and is water-resistant to 500 m (1650 ft.). The Oceanmaster comes fitted with a genuine rubber strap or stainless-steel bracelet and features a date window at 6 o’clock. The transparent case back enables the owner to admire the decorated automatic movement. This watch boasts vital navigation features such as a nautical bezel and a tactical planner to time and position the crossing of the starting line.

Made from stainless steel, the watch case measures 44 diameter and 13.8 mm thickness and fitted with sapphire crystal front glass and mineral crystal case back. The uni-directional bezel is available in black or blue anodized aluminum. The watch houses a self-winding mechanical movement (ETA-2824-2) with power reserve of 38 hours. This model from the Delma Racing Collection is priced 1’050 CHF.

S.U.F Helsinki Vetehinen

S.U.F stands for SarpanevaUhrenFabrik, a watch brand established by master watch maker Stepan Sarpaneva. Based in Helsinki in Finland, this independent watch brand creates mechanical timepieces inspired from the myths and legends of the country.

In 2017, S.U.F launched Vetehinen, the first diving watch from the brand. Inspired by a legendary 500-tonne WWII submarine of same name, this automatic diving timepiece is rated for a water resistance up to 300 meters.

Measuring 42mm diameter and 13mm thickness, the solid case of this Finnish dive watch is crafted with high-grade Supra 316L/4435 stainless steel from Finland based world-renowned steel company Outokumpu – forged in Helsinki, impregnated with anti-corrosive nickel mined from the Finnish ground. Even the chrome is mined in Finland, outside the remote coastal town of Kemi. This timepiece also features “devil-tail” hands and easy-to-grip crenellated rotating bezel.

The Vetehinen diving watch is equipped with Eterna Calibre 39. Powering 3-hands basic time display with centre minute, hour hands and a small seconds counter at 9ó clock, this self-winding mechanical movement has a power reserve up to 65 hours. The watch is available is four colourways blue, copper, grey and silver. Each version is limited to 26 pieces. The NATO strap that comes with Vetehinen is made from the Finnish burbot and reindeer leather. Price starts at 4’070 CHF.

Marloe Watch Company Lomond Chronoscope

Launched in October 2017, the Lomond Chronoscope is the third watch model from Marloe, the young watch company renowned for contemporary mechanical wristwatches with an ethos for vintage aesthetics coupled with manual, mechanical movements.

This new model takes its name from perhaps the most well-known and picturesque loch in Scotland. For the Lomond Chronoscope collection, Marloe Watch Company was dedicated to creating a timepiece with a foot in both the traditional and the contemporary; with a strikingly unique, yet familiar design. Marloe decided to retain certain key elements of its previous incarnations whilst also ensuring the newest design stood out from the crowd.

Marloe Watch Company Lomond Chronoscope

This third timepiece is a more complex mechanical machine, offering both accurate timekeeping and time measurement. Therefore, the design needs to reflect the requirement for additional information on the watch face, whilst remaining true to Marloe’s ethos of a clutter free style.

Marloe Watch Company Lomond Chronoscope Sea-Gull ST1901 column-wheel manual movement

Surrounding the exhibition case back are the words of Scottish poet and lyricist Robert Burns from his 1790 narrative poem Tam o’Shanter: “nae man can tether time or tide”.

At the heart of the Lomond Chronoscope is the  Sea-Gull ST1901 column-wheel manual movement. This timepiece is also water resistant up to 50 meters. The  Lomond Chronoscope is available in five different versions: Classic Grey, Classic White, Classic Panda, Vintage Coffee and Vintage Vanilla.

Marloe Watch Company Lomond Chronoscope

Classic Grey: The Classic Grey is bold and refined. The dial is a charcoal grey, applied to a sandblasted surface to give a beautiful paper-like matte finish. The main printed markings are in white with red accents, and the hour blocks are polished to match the hands. These contrast with the dark grey dial to assist in quick time-reading. The Classic Grey is adorned with a matching anthracite leather strap.

Marloe Watch Company Lomond Chronoscope with classic white dial

Classic White: The most notable style feature of the Classic White is that it is fitted with a bold orange leather strap. The case, crown and pushers are mirror polished with a matt black ceramic bezel, telemeter scale engraved and paint-filled white. This version of the timepiece has a mirror polished main and sub-dial hands with a tinted dark grey chronoscope hand to compliment the outer markings.

Marloe Watch Company Lomond Chronoscope classic panda dial

Classic Panda: The Classic Panda dial features the same pearlescent white paint as the Classic White dial, it is applied to a sandblasted surface to give a beautiful paper like texture with a semi-metallic sheen. The sub-dials are the inverse of the dial, or Panda as it’s called. The outer ring minute markings are red, with dark grey 1/5th seconds markings. The hour blocks are polished to match the hands, as are the main and sub-dial hands, whereas the chronoscope hand is painted in the accent colour red.

Marloe Watch Company Lomond Chronoscope vintage coffee dial

Vintage Coffee: Strikingly different, the Vintage Coffee has a luscious deep brown, almost black dial colour. In one light it appears a glossy inky black, enhanced by the reflection from the crystal. In another light and angle the dial is a dark espresso brown. The main printed markings are a combination of vintage cream with red and white accents; polished hour blocks match the polished hands.

Marloe Watch Company Lomond Chronoscope vintage vanilla dial

Vintage Vanilla: This fifth variety of the Lomond also comes with a case that is polished with matching crown and pushers. The deep glossy, inky black ceramic bezel is engraved white markings. The Vintage Vanilla is strapped with dark brown leather, contrast white stitching and steel rivets to complete the vintage range.

The Marloe Watch Company Lomond Chronoscope collection is priced at £449.00 and comes in grey, panda, white, coffee and vanilla watch face finishes with the choice of classic or vintage style leather straps.

Mechanica ME1A by Done Watches

Established by a young entrepreneur named Thierry Clottu, Done Watches is based in Neuchâtel’s region, a traditional watch making centre in Switzerland. Aim of this brand to offer the budget conscious customers a high quality Swiss Made mechanical watch at a fair price.

After spending more than ten years in the product development for major brands of the segment, the founder of the new watch brand aimed at developing a timepiece that fits to his own vision of modern and genuine watchmaking.  After a short and successful Kickstarter campaign, Thierry Clottu gathered the financing to launch DONE WATCHES’ first product: MECHANICA ME1A.

MECHANICA ME1A, the first collection from DONE WATCHES, is fitted with a mechanical hand-wounded caliber ETA 6497-1, hand-decorated. A particular care has been devoted to the design and finishing of this contemporary timepiece in order to get a coherent, elegant and sport-chic ensemble. Declined in six different versions, MECHANICA ME1A is available with a lot of bracelets combinations.

Each timepiece is delivered with a special packaging including a leather travel pouch and a “DONE” microfiber cloth.

Technical details 
Model: Mechanica ME1A

Case
316L stainless steel or 316L stainless steel with rose gold PVD treatment
Diameter: 43.8mm
Thickness: 10.9mm
Domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Hands and applied indexes with superluminova C3
Screwed case-back with a sapphire crystal opening
Water-resistance: 10 ATM (100m)

Dials
Silver, Black or Silver and black

Movement
Hand-wound mechanical ETA 6497-1
Hand-decorated with Côtes de Genève

Strap
Genuine leather with crocodile pattern
Easy spring bars for easy strap replacement

Buckle
Deployment buckle with pushers
316L stainless steel

Retail price
CHF 859.- to CHF 889.- VAT included (CH)

References
ME1A-A01: 316L stainless steel case, Silver dial
ME1A-A02: 316L stainless steel case, Black dial
ME1A-A03: 316L stainless steel case, Silver and black dial
ME1A-A04: 316L stainless steel case with rose gold PVD treatment; Silver dial
ME1A-A05: 316L stainless steel case with rose gold PVD treatment; Black dial
ME1A-A06: 316L stainless steel case with rose gold PVD treatment; Silver and black dial

About DONE WATCHES
Founded in 2015 by Thierry Clottu, DONE WATCHES is lead by the genuine ambition to offer a Swiss Made mechanical watch for a fair price. Based in the region of Neuchâtel, the brand raised financing from Kickstarter to launch its first model: MECHANICA ME1A. DONE WATCHES aims to further develop its watch collection, still keeping its mindset oriented towards making reliable and efficient watches.

Thierry has been working over more than 10 years in the watch industry in key positions for major brands. Graduated in micro-engineering HES, Thierry decided to start his own agency in 2012, TCL Concept Sàrl, specialized in product development for the watch industry. In 2015, he created the brand DONE WATCHES.

Contact details
Done Watches
Avenue Beauregard 28
CH-2036 Cormondrèche
www.donewatches.ch

Fears Brunswick

Unveiled in November 2017, the Brunswick is Fears Watch Company’s first mechanical watch after its resurrection. This watch is the first in a new, premium family of hand-built watches that are directly inspired by timepieces from the Fears archive.

Fears Brunswick - Polar White dial on a Bristol Black strap - on side with case technical drawing and dial samples

This timepiece takes its name from Brunswick Square in Bristol, which was the location of the Fears exporting business, Fears (Export) Limited, that was established in 1920 at No. 14. From these premises, the company shipped its watches to 95 countries around the world, conducting such a significant amount of business that they had their own Post Office branch located inside.

Fears Brunswick watch- Polar White dial on a Fears Blue strap - hands on

The shape of the Brunswick has been influenced by the glamour of the 1920s & 30s and specifically a sterling silver Fears watch dating from 1924.

FEARS vintage watch with sterling silver cushion case, circa 1924
FEARS vintage watch with sterling silver cushion case, circa 1924

This particular timepiece was made in the early years of wrist watches, when the round watch case that is so prevalent today had yet to achieve its dominance.

Fears Brunswick - Polar White dial on a Bristol Black strap - on white beads

Instead, it features a shape that was very popular at this time – the cushion case. The Brunswick uses a similar shaped cushion case with its elegant combination of a rounded square with a circular dial.

Fears Brunswick - Polar White dial on a Bristol Black strap

The many curves and surfaces that give the Brunswick its distinctive look provide a number of manufacturing complications. Once the basic case is machined it requires an entire day of hand polishing by an expert watchmaker to give it its final brilliant finish. Set into the top of the case is a domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal.

Fears Brunswick - Polar White dial on an Azzuro Blue strap made from Barenia leather

Visible through the Brunswick’s sapphire crystal exhibition case back is the watch’s mechanical heart, a top-grade Swiss ETA 7001. This manual wind movement is decorated in the UK with Côtes de Genève and displays the time with seconds on a subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock, just like the watch from 1924.

Fears Brunswick - Polar White dial on a Fears Blue strap - across dial

Along with the case, the dial and hands have also been made in the UK and are bespoke to Fears. The Brunswick uses special skeletonised and thermally blued versions of the distinctive ‘Fears’ hands, first seen on the Fears Redcliff Date.

Fears Brunswick - Polar White dial on a Fears Blue Bristol Leather strap - pack shot (angle)

These hands sit on a highly polished cold resin enamel dial, which evokes the feel of the white enamel dials used by Fears on their first pocket and wrist watches.

Fears Brunswick - Polar White dial on a Fears Ultra Dark Blue Bristol Leather strap - pack shot

The Fears Brunswick retails for £2,300 inc. VAT.

Technical details

Model: Fears Brunswick
Model number: BS23800

Case
316L Stainless Steel, 38mm x 38mm cushion-shaped
Manufactured and finished in the UK
Lug width: 20mm
Sapphire Crystals to front (with anti-reflective) and back

Movement
Top-grade ETA 7001, manual winding
17 jewel, 21,600vph (3Hz) and 40 hr power reserve
Movement decorated with Côtes de Genève in the UK

Dial
Cold resin enamel with skeleton ‘Fears’ hands, thermally blued, both made in the UK

Functions
Time with subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock

Strap
Genuine Alligator in four colours; Jet Black, Sapphire Blue, Ruby Red & Emerald Green

Serial number
Starting from 1, sequentially

Retail price
£2,300 inc. VAT

To discover more timepieces from this brand, please visit Fears watches page. To learn more about the Fears Watch Company and its history, please click here.

Oris Staghorn Restoration Limited Edition

Launched in 2017, the Staghorn Restoration Limited Edition is a high performance diver’s watch made in partnership with the Coral Restoration Foundation, a non-profit conservation organisation working to preserve the world’s coral reefs. Oris is supporting its vital work through sales of the watch, which is limited to 2,000 pieces. The Coral Restoration Foundation is a Florida-based, non-profit ocean conservation organisation committed to restoring the world’s coral reefs.

The Staghorn Restoration Limited Edition is part of the sleek next-generation Aquis collection launched in 2017, and has a number of distinguishing features. The first is its use of colour. The dial is dark blue, while key indications, including the central seconds hand and the bezel’s zero marker on the minute scale are in punchy orange. Orange was chosen both to reflect the colour of Staghorn coral, and because it’s one of the most visible colours in the low-light conditions found underwater.

The dial is punctuated by day and date indications. The day is shown through a sequence of seven windows cut into a circle running around the inner part of the dial, each of which fills with orange on the appropriate day. The date is positioned at 6 o’clock, and is also orange.

As with all watches in the new Aquis collection, the Staghorn Restoration Limited Edition features an automatic mechanical movement and a uni-directional rotating diver’s bezel with a ceramic insert for timing dives. This model has a 43.5mm stainless steel case and is water-resistant to 30 bar (300 metres). The case back is decorated with a Staghorn coral embossed in relief and the limited edition number.

Technical details
Model: Oris Staghorn Restoration Limited Edition
Ref. No. 01 735 7734 4185 RS, Ø 43.50mm
Limited to 2,000 pieces

Movement
Automatic movement Oris Cal. 735, based on Sellita SW 220-1, with date window at 6 o’clock
Weekdays displayed through seven apertures on an inner circle by an orange indicator. Instantaneous jump at midnight

Case
Multi-piece stainless steel case and screw-in security crown with crown protection
Water-resistant to 30 bar/300 m
Diver’s uni-directional rotating bezel with polished black ceramic insert and orange/white minute scale
Screwed stainless steel case back with embossed Staghorn coral and engraved limited edition number
Sapphire crystal domed on both sides with anti-reflective coating

Dial
Dark blue dial with applied indices filled with Super-LumiNova®
Nickel hour and minute hands with Super-LumiNova® inserts
Orange central seconds hand with Super-LumiNova® ‘lollipop’ insert

Strap
Black rubber strap with Oris-developed safety anchor and quick adjustment sliding-sledge folding clasp
Also available with a stainless steel bracelet

Packaging
The presentation box with an insignia on the inside featuring the Staghorn coral is made using environmentally friendly regenerative algae

Strap
Swiss retail price CHF 2,000 on a strap, CHF 2,200 on metal bracelet

Vanitas – L’EPEE 1839 by Fiona Krüger

The horological creation Vanitas is born out of a partnership between Fiona Krüger and L’Epée 1839, Switzerland’s specialised high-end clock manufacturer, founded in 1839.

The Skull is the ultimate symbol of life, death and human experience – as such it has played a key role in both Horological History and Art History. Through Fiona Krüger’s artistic approach to Haute Horlogerie and L’Epée’s know-how, the Skull has been re-interpreted into a mechanical Vanitas painting for the 21st Century.

A Vanitas is a still life artwork which includes various symbolic objects to remind the viewer of the transience of life. This was an important and popular genre of painting in the 1600’s and includes symbols like skulls and extinguished candles.

Engineered and crafted by L’Epée 1839, the Vanitas clock reminds you to celebrate life. The hours and minutes are shown by the clock’s hands, and a power reserve indicator is integrated into the mouth of the skull. As Vanitas loses power it starts to yawn, indicating it needs to be wound up. Though with a 35-day power-reserve, this monthly ritual will give you a moment to stop and take stock of the time you have.

Fiona’s Fine Art and Design training, combined with her international upbringing are apparent in the design of this mechanical symbol. Having spent part of her childhood in Mexico City her vivid memories of the Dia de los Muertos festival have influenced her own skull collection and this latest collaboration with L’Epée. This mechanical Vanitas is rich in symbolism but also in humour.

The bridges of the clock are intricately detailed, designed to build up into a pattern which ultimately forms this ornate skull.

Creativity is at the heart of both L’Epée 1839 and Fiona Krüger Timepieces. The challenge was really to create this modern day Vanitas with a humorous twist. The new “yawning” power reserve indicator required a whole new development and re-engineering of the clock movement. It is a marriage between fantasy and purpose, which is at the core of the collaboration.

The ideas of life, time and mortality are synonymous and even more relevant in mechanical clock-making today than they have ever been. The unique design of the Skull imitating yawning as the power reserve depletes, joined with the ability to bring the clock to life as its wound up, reflects the history of clock making where fantasy, creativity and purpose were all incorporated in equal measure to create designs which made people dream.

When picturing a clock in your mind, everyone has a similar idea – round, 12 hours, two hands. Vanitas defies convention – the clock is itself a Skull, with mechanical eyes, a moving mouth and a distinctive case shape which frames the skull-shaped movement inside. The multi-layered bridges each have a specifically chosen finishing and décor, bringing depth to this sculptural skull. The hands bring a sense of familiarity to this innovative design which defies convention and brings together the worlds of Fine Art and Haute Horlogerie.

Next to all known contemporary Wall clocks, Vanitas stands out like a bold brush stroke on a blank canvas. This new co-creation features a frontal escapement, 2 barrel arbors as “pupils”, all designed to sculpt the mechanical skull’s face. Vanitas indicates the time by way of two hands which are centrally mounted on the nose.

These hand-polished hands indicate the hours and minutes, hiding and revealing the skull’s eyes as if it was playing hide-and-seek. Power reserve indicator: an indicator framed by two rows of teeth opens up as time passes, providing an intuitive view of remaining energy. When the mouth is completely opened (18.5mm apart from each other) the clock looks like it is “yawning” as a warning to its owner that it will go to sleep if some energy is not provided.

Vanitas is a luxury one-of-a-kind wall clock, featuring essentially the same mechanisms as a wristwatch, only larger: gear train, mainspring barrels (well, five in series), balance wheel, escape wheel and anchor. L’Epée’s regulator also features an Incabloc shock protection system, something generally only seen in wristwatches, which minimises the risk of damage when the clock is being transported.

Larger components, however, make finely finishing the movement much more challenging than finishing a wristwatch, because of the bigger surface areas.

Form follows function is a principle associated with modernist architecture and industrial design in the 20th century. The principle is that the shape of a building or object should be primarily based upon its intended function or purpose.

When it is reinterpreted by L’Epée 1839, the movement and the shape of the clock become one. The clock is no longer made of a movement and a housing which gives the shape of the clock. The movement itself defines the shape of the clock and the design cannot be recognized without the movement. The eyes are the barrels (two of them), the mouth is the power reserve, the philtra is the differential allowing the teeth to open up.

Vanitas is limited to 50 pieces per configuration and is now available in ‘dark’ and colourful editions.

Technical details

Display
Hours and minutes
Power reserve indicator

Main structure
Height 306 mm
Width 220 mm
Thickness 86 mm
Clock Weight: Approx. 5 kg. with 2.2 kg just for the movement
‘Dark’ version: Mat Housing in Black Anodized Aluminum with mineral glass
Colored Version: Mat Housing in Black Anodized Aluminum with mineral glass

Movement
L’Epée in-house designed and manufactured movement
Balance frequency 18,000 vph / 2.5Hz
Barrels 5 in series
Power reserve 35 days
Jewels 11
Incabloc shock protection system
Manual-winding Double-ended key to set time and wind movement on the skull face

‘Dark’ version
Mechanism in palladium-coated brass
Movement Main plates in black PVD coated brass
Multi-layered screen printed white decoration (gloss ink).

Colored Version
Mechanism in palladium-coated brass
Movement Main plate in brass black PVD coating
Multi-coloured screen-printed pattern (gloss ink). Each colour used in the design of the clock was specially selected as it represents a specific meaning pertaining to the Dia de Los Muertos celebration: Blue = Trust, White = Purity, Orange = Sun, Yellow = Death, Pink = Celebration, Red = Life and Purple = Grief and Black = Mortality (hence the black PVD coating)

DOXA SUB 300 50th Anniversary Edition

In 2017, the DOXA SUB 300 as the original orange dial dive watch celebrated its silver anniversary.

The DOXA SUB 300 was created to provide a top quality dive watch for the emerging recreational scuba diving market. Launched in 1967, it quickly became the reference for all dive watches that would follow.

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the DOXA SUB, the Swiss brand has gone back to their archives and produced a watch that combines the look and feel of the original with the latest in Swiss watch making know how. The result is the 50th Anniversary DOXA SUB 300.

Priced at $2,490 and limited to 300 pieces per model, this timepiece is available in the three traditional DOXA versions –

Professional – Orange
Sharkhunter – Black
Searambler – Silver

Like the original the case is solid, stainless steel measuring 42.5 mm in diameter, and 13.4 mm thick. The movement is ETA’s 2824-2 Chronometer Grade version. Like the original SUB 300 the stainless steel bracelet is DOXA’s unique “beads of rice” style, with an interesting taper from 22 mm to 20 mm where the clasp is equipped with an integrated wetsuit extension.

The bezel displays DOXA’s innovative adaptation of the US Navy’s maximum no decompression limit times, which is engraved in orange on the outer unidirectional bezel. And while the crystal bears a striking resemblance to the plexi crystal of the original 300, it is, in fact a double bubble sapphire crystal.

Technical details

Models available
Professional
Sharkhunter
Searambler (orange minute hand)

Edition
50 year anniversary limited edition of 300 pieces per model

Case
Case size: 42.5mm
Crown: 6.50mm
Dial: 25.50mm
Case height: 13.40mm
Crystal: Double bubble Sapphire crystal (Vintage plexi crystal shape)

Movement
ETA 2824-2 COSC

Bracelet
Separate bead of rice, integrated wetsuit extension, tapers from 22.00/20.00mm

SINN 240 St GZ – Stainless Steel Watch with Dark Blue Dial and Interior Tide Bezel

Dressed in a stainless steel, bead-blasted case, the SINN 240 St GZ features a dark blue dial and an interior tide bezel.

The rotating tide bezel of this watch can be used to read the relative water level of a location in terms of current tide, i.e. the time until the next high tide. All you need to know is the time of the last high tide and correlate this with the triangular mark ‘HW 1’ on the rotating bezel. This can be taken for example from a tide table or tide calendar.

The hour hand can then be used to read off the current water level on the rotating tide bezel of the 240 St GZ. You can also read off the expected relative water levels for any given time up until the time of the next high tide, which is then shown at the position ‘HW 2’.

This automatic watch is equipped with a SW 220-1 movement. Its 43mm case is fitted with sapphire crystal front glass and the rear side is secured with a screw-fastened steel caseback.

Technical details

Movement
• SW 220-1
• Self-winding mechanism
• 26 bearing jewels
• 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour
• Hand adjustment with seconds stop function
• Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309

Case
• Case made of stainless steel, bead-blasted
• Sapphire crystal glass in front, anti-reflective on both sides
• Case back screw-fastened
• Meet the technical requirements for waterproofness, as set out in standard DIN 8310
• Pressure-resistant up to 10 bar
• Low pressure resistant

Functions
• Hours, minutes, seconds
• Date
• Day of the week display
• Interior tide bezel

SINN Technologies
• Crowns with D3-System

Dimensions and Weight
• Case diameter 43 mm
• Band lug width: 22 mm
• Case thickness: 11 mm
• Weight without strap: 85 gramme

Dial and Hands
• Dark blue dial
• Indices coated with luminescent colour
• Hour- and minute hand coated with luminescent colour
• Marks on tide bezel with luminescent colour

Warranty
• 2 years

SINN 104 St Sa I W – Classic Pilot Watch with White Glossy Dial

The SINN 104 St Sa I W is a classic pilot watch designed in traditional SINN style and featuring a brilliant white dial with indices.

Clearly structured, these watches provide optimum readability of the time, date and day of the week.

The pilot’s bezel with minute ratcheting can be rotated on both sides and is securely attached to the case. It has a luminous triangle as key mark at the 12 o’clock position. The instrument watch has a polished stainless steel case and a crystal made of sapphire crystal which is also used for the transparent back. The watch houses a SW 220-1 automatic movement.

The transparent back allows the filigree work of the mechanical movement to be admired in all its intricacy. The 104 St Sa I W is low pressure resistant and can withstand pressures of up to 20 bar.

Technical details

Movement
• SW 220-1
• Self-winding mechanism
• 26 bearing jewels
• 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour
• Seconds stop function
• Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309

Case
• Case made of stainless steel, polished
• Sapphire crystal glass in front, anti-reflective on both sides
• Transparent case back made of sapphire crystal glass, anti-reflective on the interior
• Case back screw-fastened
• Crown screwable
• Meet the technical requirements for waterproofness, as set out in standard DIN 8310
• Pressure-resistant up to 20 bar
• Low pressure resistant

Functions
• Hours, minutes, seconds
• Date display
• Day of the week display
• Pilot’s bezel with minute ratcheting and luminous key mark

SINN Technologies
• Captive bezel

Dimensions and Weight
• Case diameter: 41 mm
• Band lug width: 20 mm
• Case thickness: 11.5 mm
• Weight without strap: 73 gramme

Dial and Hands
• White glossy dial
• Indices coated with luminescent colour
• Hour, minute and second hand coated with luminescent colour

Warranty
• 2 years

SINN 1736 St I 4N

The SINN 1736 St I 4N is a highly exquisite and elegant watch in stainless steel case featuring silver electroplated dial with sunburst decoration, stylishly arranged gold plated hands, and the appliqués, meticulously attached by hand and.

This timelessly classic design, skillfully incorporating elements from previous styles and thus illustrating a sense of tradition, is reinforced by the slightly curved, high-quality sapphire crystal. Such details define and characterise the overall appearance of this magnificent watch.

Measuring 36mm diameter, the stainless steel, polished case houses an ETA 2892-A2 automatic movement that can be admired through the transparent case back made of sapphire crystal glass. The watch is pressure-resistant to 10 bar and also low pressure resistant.

Technical details

Movement
• ETA 2892-A2
• Self-winding mechanism
• 21 bearing jewels
• 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour
• Seconds stop function
• Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309

Case
• Case made of stainless steel, polished
• Sapphire crystal glass in front, anti-reflective on both sides
• Transparent case back made of sapphire crystal glass, anti-reflective on the interior
• Case back screw-fastened
• Meet the technical requirements for waterproofness, as set out in standard DIN 8310
• Pressure-resistant up to 10 bar
• Low pressure resistant

Functions
• Hours, minutes

SINN Technologies
• Crown with D3-System

Dimensions and Weight
• Case diameter: 36 mm
• Band lug width: 19 mm
• Case thickness: 9 mm
• Weight without strap: 43 gramme

Dial and Hands
• Silver electroplated dial with sunburst decoration
• Appliqués, meticulously attached by hand
• Gold plated hands and appliqués

Warranty
• 2 years

SINN 556 I Mother-of-pearl S Edition

The watches from the SINN 556 series are characterised by striking lines, minimalistic displays and clear readability. Fine satinised stainless-steel cases with crystal and transparent back made of sapphire crystal glass. Sophisticated dials with diamond-cut rhodium plated hands and appliqués. These are the features that make these sporty watches so distinctive and elegant.

For the 556 I Mother-of-Pearl S edition, SINN created a particularly masculine design with a shimmering black mother-of-pearl dial.

Mother-of-pearl is a natural product that makes each dial unique and gives the watches their individual, distinctive shine. To ensure good readability at night, the hour and minute hands are luminous, as are the hour indices. These watches are pressure-resistant to 20 bar and also resistant to low pressure.

Dressed in a 38.5 mm case, the watch houses an automatic movement (SW 200-1) which is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.

Technical details

Movement
• SW 200-1
• Self-winding mechanism
• 26 bearing jewels
• 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour
• Seconds stop function
• Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309

Case
• Case made of stainless steel, satinized
• Sapphire crystal glass in front, anti-reflective on both sides
• Transparent case back made of sapphire crystal glass, anti-reflective on the interior
• Case back screw-fastened
• Crown screwable
• Meet the technical requirements for waterproofness, as set out in standard DIN 8310
• Pressure-resistant up to 20 bar
• Low pressure resistant

Functions
• Hours, minutes, seconds

Dimensions and Weight
• Case diameter: 38,5 mm
• Band lug width: 20 mm
• Case thickness: 11 mm
• Weight without strap: 65 gramme

Dial and Hands
• Shimmering black mother-of-pearl dial
• Indices coated with luminescent colour
• Hour and minute hand coated with luminescent colour

Warranty
• 2 years

SINN Model 6096 Frankfurt World Time Watch

With their three perfectly legible time zones on a 12- and 24-hour basis, the Frankfurt World Time Watches are among the most popular timepieces in SINN’s Frankfurt Financial District Watches.

The Frankfurt World Time Watch 6096 has a diameter of 41.5 mm, and with an overall height of just 10.1 mm, it is also remarkably flat. The watch is thus extremely comfortable to wear and works very well in combination with a shirt and suit.

The black dial with sunburst decoration exudes an air of classical elegance and high quality. The deep, silky matt shine accentuates the rhodium-plated appliqués to striking effect. The appliqués are luminous and have been individually attached by hand.

The 6096 features a polished stainless-steel case and sapphire crystal glass. Through the transparent sapphire crystal back,  the fine and exquisitely decorated movement can be admired. The rotor engraving of the bull and bear, the traditional symbols of the stock market, is a stylish reference to Frankfurt am Main as the birthplace of this watch.

Technical details

Movement
• ETA 2893-2
• Self-winding mechanism
• 21 bearing jewels
• 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour
• Seconds stop function
• Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309

Case
• Case made of stainless steel, polished
• Sapphire crystal glass in front, anti-reflective on both sides
• Transparent case back made of sapphire crystal glass, anti-reflective on the interior
• Case back screw-fastened
• Meet the technical requirements for waterproofness, as set out in standard DIN 8310
• Pressure-resistant up to 10 bar
• Low pressure resistant

Functions
• Hours, minutes, seconds
• Three time zones on 12- and 24-hour basis
• Date display

Dimensions and Weight
• Case diameter: 41.5 mm
• Band lug width: 22 mm
• Case thickness: 10,1 mm
• Weight without strap: 58 gramme

Dial and Hands
• Black-electroplated dial, with sunburst decoration
• Attached appliqués coated with luminescent colour
• Hour and minute hand coated with luminescent colour

Warranty
• 2 years

SINN 1746 Heimat

The first Frankfurt Financial District Watch is a testament to the German watch brand’s strong roots in Frankfurt am Main and the special relationship SINN has with this location. The 1746 Heimat watch is a homage to this city.

The extremely fine rhodium coated relief dial is inspired by the traditional diamond pattern of Frankfurt’s popular cider glasses, also known as Gerippte. The three-dimensional diamond pattern creates an incredibly vibrant interplay of light and shade on the cider glasses.

A close look at the relief on the dial of the 1746 Heimat reveals this watch to be just as vibrant and three-dimensional, with a wide range of surface characteristics from polished to matt silk. This effect is a result of the electroforming technique used in the production process. This method allows complex three-dimensional surface structures to be achieved with a high degree of precision. The relief dial is coated with rhodium, a precious metal similar to platinum, which gives the dial an exquisite silver-white shine.

This watch pressure-resistant up to 10 bar and also resistant to low pressure.

Technical details

Movement
• ETA 2892-A2
• Self-winding mechanism
• 21 bearing jewels
• 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour
• Seconds stop function
• Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309

Case
• Case made of stainless steel, polished
• Sapphire crystal glass in front, anti-reflective on both sides
• Transparent case back made of sapphire crystal glass, anti-reflective on the interior
• Case back screw-fastened
• Meet the technical requirements for waterproofness, as set out in standard DIN 8310
• Pressure-resistant up to 10 bar
• Low pressure resistant

Functions
• Hours
• Minutes

SINN Technologies
• Crown with D3-System

Dimensions and Weight
• Case diameter: 42 mm
• Band lug width: 22 mm
• Case thickness: 9.4 mm
• Weight without strap: 65 gramme

Dial and Hands
• Hands and relief dial are coated with rhodium, a precious metal similar to platinum, which gives the dial an exquisite silver white shine.

Warranty
• 2 years

SINN 103 St Sa E – Limited Edition Traditional Pilot Chronograph with Matte Black Dial

The classic pilot watches in series 103 are amongst the most traditional watches to be developed by SINN.

Featuring a matte black dial, the 300-piece limited-edition 103 St Sa E is reminiscent of historical pilot watches with its luminous ivory-coloured coating on the hands, numerals and indices.

Although classic in appearance, this SINN watch is every bit contemporary thanks to its high-tech features. For example, the 103 St Sa E has a captive pilot’s bezel with minute ratcheting, which is securely attached to the polished stainless-steel case. The watch case measures 41mm diameter.

It is resistant to low pressure and can withstand pressures of up to 20 bar. The crystal and transparent back are made of curved sapphire crystal glass.

The watch is equipped with a Valjoux 7750 movement, which is visible through the transparent sapphire crystal case back.

Technical details

Movement
• Valjoux 7750
• Self-winding mechanism
• 25 bearing jewels
• 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour
• Seconds stop function
• Shock resistant as per DIN ISO 1413
• Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309

Case
• Case made of stainless steel, polished
• Sapphire crystal glass in front, anti-reflective on both sides
• Transparent case back made of sapphire crystal glass, anti-reflective on the interior
• Case back screw-fastened
• Crown screwable
• Push-pieces screwable
• Meet the technical requirements for waterproofness, as set out in standard DIN 8310
• Pressure-resistant up to 20 bar
• Low pressure resistant

Functions
• Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds
• Date display
• Day of the week display
• Chronograph
• Pilot’s bezel with minute ratcheting and luminous key mark

SINN Technologies
• Captive bezel
• Optionally: Ar-Dehumidifying Technology for enhanced freedom from fogging

Dimensions and Weight
• Case diameter: 41 mm
• Band lug width: 20 mm
• Case thickness: 17 mm
• Weight without strap: 88 gramme

Dial and Hands
• Matte black dial
• Numbers and indices coated with luminescent colour
• Hour hand, minute hand and stopwatch second hand coated with luminescent colour
• Ivory-coloured coating on the indices, numbers and hands

Warranty
• 2 years

SINN 556 I B, Stainless Steel Model with Blue Electroplated Dial

The watches from the SINN 556 series are characterised by striking lines, minimalistic displays and clear readability. Fine satinised stainless-steel cases with crystal and transparent back made of sapphire crystal glass.

Sophisticated dials with diamond-cut rhodium plated hands and appliqués. These are the features that make these sporty watches so distinctive and elegant.

The brand has chosen a blue dial for the 556 I B edition and finished it with a sunburst decoration that makes the dial shine brightly in beautiful hues of blue.

To ensure good readability at night, the hour and minute hands are luminous, as are the hour indices. These watches are pressure-resistant to 20 bar and also resistant to low pressure.

The watch features a 38.5mm case and houses a SW200-1 self-winding movement that can be viewed through the sapphire crystal caseback.

Technical details

Movement
• SW200-1
• Self-winding mechanism
• 26 bearing jewels
• 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour
• Seconds stop function
• Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309

Case
• Case made of stainless steel, satinized
• Sapphire crystal glass in front, anti-reflective on both sides
• Transparent case back made of sapphire crystal glass, anti-reflective on the interior
• Case back screw-fastened
• Crown screwable
• Meet the technical requirements for waterproofness, as set out in standard DIN 8310
• Pressure-resistant up to 20 bar
• Low pressure resistant

Functions
• Hours, minutes, seconds

Dimensions and Weight
• Case diameter: 38,5 mm
• Band lug width: 20 mm
• Case thickness: 11 mm
• Weight without strap: 65 gramme

Dial and Hands
• Blue electroplated dial, with sunburst decoration
• Indices coated with luminescent colour
• Hour and minute hand coated with luminescent colour

Warranty
• 2 years

Marquise Time by Harry Winston (High Jewelry Timepieces)

The Marquise Time is a versatile high jewelry timepiece that can be worn as a pendant or a traditional wristwatch.

The Marquise Time by Harry Winston reimagines the ruff collars favored by European royalty in the mid-16th century. The elaborate layers of ruffled fabric were considered the height of elegance and a distinguishing sign of nobility and status. With the Marquise Time, Harry Winston’s superlative design team translates the royal ruff into a majestic timepiece of unparalleled beauty.

Marquise Time by Harry Winston (High Jewelry Timepieces)

Like a rose window in a cathedral, the House’s latest high jewelry timepiece is a brilliant celebration of light and color. Sparkling diamonds and aquamarines, in varying cuts and sizes, together recall the House’s iconic cluster motif.

Presented in two unique styles – 18-karat white gold with diamonds and aquamarines and 18-karat rose gold with diamonds – Marquise Time is a feminine high jewelry design destined to brighten any occasion.

Marquise Time by Harry Winston (High Jewelry Timepieces)

Watery blue aquamarine stones recall the romance of the sea, in the white gold model of Marquise Time by Harry Winston. The precious stones bring an ethereal quality to a delicate design and perfectly complement the world’s rarest diamonds.

Marquise Time by Harry Winston (High Jewelry Timepieces)

Precious gem-set petals bring a floral perspective to the 36 mm white gold case of Marquise Time. The outermost petals are adorned with 20 pear-shaped diamonds. Expertly set just below the rare diamonds, 20 pear-shaped aquamarine stones radiate captivating blue hues.

The innermost layer shines with 24 round brilliant aquamarines, which perfectly reveal a mother-of-pearl dial. Pearly gold studs embrace the curves and contours of each magnificent gem and showcase the House’s creativity in design.

Marquise Time by Harry Winston (High Jewelry Timepieces)

The all-diamond edition of Marquise Time, set in 18-karat rose gold, embodies the light and warmth of the sun. Like its aquamarine counterpart, the all-diamond model features a combination of pear-shaped and round brilliant stones. By framing each stone with a vintage-inspired pearl motif, the diamond settings seemingly disappear, and depth and volume are brought to the forefront of the design.

Versatile in design, Marquise Time can be worn as a traditional wristwatch on a blue or black satin strap or as a pendant on an 18-karat white or rose gold chain. Effortlessly convertible, the case clips in and out of its supporting structure with a simple twist. The brilliance of Harry Winston diamonds comes to life in every detail.

The white and rose gold chains are enhanced with 1 round brilliant diamond on the clasp, and the watch strap buckle is set with 29 round brilliant diamonds. Both models are equipped with a Swiss quartz movement for carefree maintenance and superlative accuracy.

Technical details

Collection: High Jewelry Timepieces
Model: Marquise Time by Harry Winston

References
18K rose gold: HJTQHM36RR001
18K white gold: HJTQHM36WW001

Movement
Caliber HW1051Quartz
Diameter: 11.3 mm
Thickness: 2.50 mm

Functions
Hours and minutes

Case
18K rose gold or 18K white gold, fully set
Diameter: 36.5 mm
Height: 7.80 mm
Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Caseback: Closed
Water-resistance: 3 bar

Dial
White mother-of-pearl

Strap
Black or blue satin
Buckle: 18K rose gold or 18K white gold set with 29 brilliant-cut diamonds

Chain
18K rose gold or 18K white gold set with 1 brilliant-cut diamond

Total carat weight

  • HJTQHM36RR001: 54 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.76 carat), 40 pear-cut diamonds (approx. 3.96 cts)
  • HJTQHM36WW001: 30 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.16 carat), 24 brilliant-cut aquamarines (approx. 0.43 carat), 20 pear-cut diamonds (approx. 2.56 cts), 20 pearcut aquamarines (approx. 1 carat)

Romain Vollet for Foxy Riders

Young, luxury Swiss watch brand Romain Vollet has announced its partnership with the Foxy Riders, a collective of new generation motorcyclists composed of 4 adventurous seeking and independent women – ANA EFE, MARIA DUARTE, MARINA OLIVEIRA & PATRICIA BASÍLIO –all from different backgrounds and with different paths but share same passion.

Sharing with the Foxy Riders the same principles of independence, non-conformist attitude and a search for expression in an unconventional way, Romain Vollet found in this group the ideal embodiment of his values.

Romain Vollet devised his Motor Skull line directed and inspired in the rock music universe and mechanics expressing with it a spirit of freedom and nonconformity.

Romain Vollet presents four watch models and each one represents the uniqueness of individual members of the Foxy Riders.

Romain Vollet Motor Skull 555 Deepblack
ANA EFE : Plastic artist, galerist, researcher and teacher as well as an activist for the defence of animal and vegan rights. The passion for two wheels arose when at the age of three started riding a motorcycle with her father. Since then a motorcycle rider, today a Royal Enfield Continental GT retains incredible simplicity and purity in a world so dense and complex. Romain Vollet dedicates the Motor Skull 555 Deepblack timepiece to Ana.

 

  • Movement: Swiss skeleton self-winding mechanical. Frequency: 21’600 Alt/h. Jewels: 21. Power reserve: +36 hours
  • Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds
  • Case: Black PVD coated stainless steel. Diameter: 42 mm. Thickness: 11.65 mm. Glass: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating. Water resistance: 100 m
  • Dial: Black
  • Hands: Black color
  • Bracelet: Black matte genuine calf leather
  • Buckle type: Folding clasp with pushers

Romain Vollet Skull 451 Blackout Engine
MARIA DUARTE : Designer, journalist, photographer and public relations. When her dad came home with a Harley Davidson when she was just six years old, she discovered a passion for life. At the age of 10 she began to drive motorcycles, even “borrowing” bikes from friends and acquaintances. Today the bike she drives is hers. Timepiece for Maria is the Skull 451 Blackout Engine.

  • Movement: Swiss skeleton self-winding mechanical. Frequency: 21’600 Alt/h. Jewels: 21. Power reserve: +36 hours
  • Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds
  • Case: Black PVD coated stainless steel. Bezel: Stainless steel. Diameter: 42 mm. Thickness: 11.65 mm. Glass: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating. Water resistance: 100 m
  • Dial: Black
  • Hands: Nickel
  • Bracelet: Black matte genuine calf leather
  • Buckle type: Folding clasp with pushers

Romain Vollet Skull Motor 557 Darkstar
MARINA OLIVEIRA : Model, bartender and heart mechanic, therefore, she followed her father’s footsteps. Born and raised surrounded by cars and motorcycles, she dreamt of them early but it all truly started when at 14 her brother put her on a seat of a motorcycle. Since then, she knows that it is on two wheels that she feels in his natural environment.  Romain Vollet’s choice for her is the Skull Motor 557 Darkstar.

  • Movement: Swiss skeleton self-winding mechanical. Frequency: 21’600 Alt/h. Jewels: 21. Power reserve: +36 hours
  • Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds
  • Case: Black PVD coated stainless steel. Diameter: 42 mm. Thickness: 11.65 mm. Glass: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating. Water resistance: 100 m
  • Dial: Black
  • Hands: Red gold color
  • Bracelet: Black matte genuine calf leather
  • Buckle type: Folding clasp with pushers

Romain Vollet Skull Motor 151 Darkside
PATRICIA BASÍLIO : Visual arts teacher, industrial designer and businesswoman, since the young age of 14 she roams on two wheels, age when the noise of the engine of her first motorcycle left a lasting impression. Since then riding a motorcycle is for her form of liberation. Patricia’s timepiece is the Skull Motor 151 Darkside.

  • Movement: Swiss skeleton self-winding mechanical. Frequency: 21’600 Alt/h. Jewels: 21. Power reserve: +36 hours
  • Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds
  • Case: Stainless steel. Diameter: 42 mm. Thickness: 11.65 mm. Glass: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating. Water resistance: 100 m
  • Dial: Black
  • Hands: Nickel
  • Bracelet: Black matte genuine calf leather
  • Buckle type: Folding clasp with pushers

Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Panorama Date, Stainless Steel Version

Officially launched in 2014, Glashütte Original’s newly developed Calibre 37 is an integrated chronograph movement that features innovative, compact and highly functional design, and offers exquisite precision and reliable performance. As an inaugural collection, the manufacture released two variants of the Senator Chronograph Panorama Date in platinum and red gold. Now, a sportier version in stainless steel joins this collection.

Its alluring deep black dial is set off by high-contrast white print and enhanced by the generous use of radiant blue Super-LumiNova, which highlights the white gold hour, minute and stop seconds hands, Roman numerals at hours 6 and 12 and all hour indexes, permitting excellent legibility even in the dark. Glashütte Original’s unique Panorama Date window is positioned centrally in the lower half of the dial beneath the upper-half triad formed by 30-minute and 12-hour chronograph counters and the small seconds display, in which the power reserve display is charmingly integrated.

A substantial, alternately polished and satin-brushed 42 mm stainless steel case adds cool and convincing elegance to this robust, casually stylish and sporty new version.

The new model is available with a choice of three different bracelets: the black calfskin model is sewn with blue thread, carefully chosen to complement the dial’s distinguished blue Super-LumiNova. A second strap in black rubber is adorned with a lightly textured, laser-cut decoration; both calfskin and rubber versions are available with foldover clasp or traditional pin buckle closures. A third bracelet, fashioned in polished and satin-brushed stainless steel, is easily adjusted to suit the owner’s preference using the patented, innovative closure, whose millimeter-precise 8 settings assure a superbly comfortable fit. A double security mechanism with two buttons on either side prevents accidental opening of the clasp.

Developed to meet most demanding standards of functionality and optimised for everyday use, the manufactory Calibre 37-01 chronograph movement’s fully integrated, compact construction with flyback mechanism and 12-hour chronograph counter make it a reliable, precise and aesthetically satisfying companion for day-to-day wear.

The 4Hz automatic manufactory movement assures maximum functionality through its efficient and compact method of construction. An example is the switch lever; in the Calibre 37 series chronographs, in contrast to previous designs, the lever is comprised of only one part. The movement thus guarantees the highest possible switching security, with error potential and susceptibility to interference effectively reduced to near zero. The chronograph’s reliability is also enhanced by the space-saving coupling clutch, which operates by means of an oscillating pinion. It was designed to travel the same short path when both engaging and disengaging the clutch.

A number of new features enhance the new Senator Chronograph Panorama Date, all designed to assure reliability and robust day-to-day performance. Water resistance has been increased from 5 bar to 10 and further enhanced by a new screw-down crown, while the dial’s generous use of blue Super-LumiNova highlights and high-contrast white detail assure superb legibility under all lighting conditions.

Sophisticated technical solutions assure the new chronograph’s particularly high degree of precision. Adjustment is handled without a regulator, using four gold screws on the balance wheel to enable a continuous, and thus more precise, performance of the watch over an especially long period of time. Numerous other components and functions contribute to assure the precision of the manufactory Calibre 37-01.

With a power reserve of 70 hours when fully wound, the automatic Calibre 37-01 represents an absolute peak value in the realm of mechanical chronographs. In order to keep the performance and amplitude stable over the entire period of time, a new oscillation system with low energy requirements was developed, effectively governed by a single spring barrel. Optimal translation between spring barrel and oscillation system assures extremely stable and precise performance with no deviations over 70 hours.

The new version of the Senator Chronograph Panorama Date is available alongside the other two versions in platinum and red Gold at Glashütte Original Boutiques and selected retailers worldwide.

Technical details
Case and dial
Case: Ø 42 mm
Height: 14.6 mm
Material: stainless steel
Waterproof up to: 10 bar, screw-down crown
Glass: domed sapphire crystal, both sides anti-reflective
Bottom: sapphire crystal
Dial: Ø display 36.8 mm, varnish black with Roman/Arabic numerals with Super-LumiNova
Hands: Super-LumiNova

Movement
Calibre 37-01
Dimensions: Ø 31.6 mm, height 8 mm
Balance: screw balance with 4 regulation screws gold 14 ct
Oscillating frequency: 28,800 vph, equivalent to 4 Hz
Power reserve: 70 Stunden ±5%
Balance spring: Anachron
Shock protection: Incabloc
Jewels: 65 jewel bearings
Additional details: Automatic winding, hour/minute (central), small second (off-central), second stop, Panorama Date, chronograph with flyback/stop second/30-minutes-display/12-hour-display, power reserve display, exquisitely finished movement, polished steel parts, polished/blued screws, three-quarter plate/cock/rotor with Glashütte stripe finish, bevelled edges, skeletonized rotor with 21-ct gold oscillation weight, adjustment of rate by adjustment screws, fine adjustment rate symmetry using swan-neck spring

Strap
Width: 21/18 mm
Models with calfskin leather strap black
– REF. 1-37-01-03-02-07: Stainless steel buckle, 18 mm
– REF. 1-37-01-03-02-35: Stainless steel fold fastener std., 18 mm
– REF. 1-37-01-03-02-55: Stainless steel short fold fastener, 18 mm
Models with rubber strap black
– REF. 1-37-01-03-02-06: Stainless steel buckle, 18 mm
– REF. 1-37-01-03-02-33: Stainless steel fold fastener std., 18 mm
– REF. 1-37-01-03-02-53: Stainless steel short fold fastener, 18 mm
Model with bracelet
– REF. 1-37-01-03-02-70: stainless steel bracelet

Gruppo Gamma Peacemaker

The Peacemaker takes inspiration from Gruppo Gamma’s debut watch collection Genesis, which itself was a fitting homage to the iconic Rolex Ref 6152 wristwatch. Introduced in 2013, the Genesis was followed by a new design called the Vanguard, which was intended to be an evolution and replacement of the Genesis.

Gruppo Gamma Peacemaker watch

The brand now reintroduces this design with the new Peacemaker model that features a stronger and vintage-colored lume, a thinner case and vintage-style domed sapphire crystal. The watch will re-introduce the California dial after a hiatus of more than 2 years.

This time it will be a ‘Semi-Cali’ dial – comprising Arabic numerals only in military stencil typeface.  In addition to the Semi-Cali, the Peacemaker will also be offered with the signature ‘Supernova’ dials.

Technical details

Model: Peacemaker

Functions
Hours, minutes

Case
Stainless steel, polished
Diameter 44 mm excluding crown and lugs, length 52 mm lug-to-lug
Thickness 11.5 mm excluding 3 mm crystal height, lug width 24 mm
Sapphire crystal, vintage style high hat dome with underside anti-reflective coating
Screw-in crown
Exhibition caseback, stainless steel and sapphire
Weight:  140 g with strap
Water Resistance:  20 ATM/ 200 m/ 660 ft

Movement
Miyota 8N33, 21600 bph, 17 jewels; Hand-wound
Accuracy between -20 to +40 s/ day, power reserve 42 hrs

Dial
Sandwich style, markers filled with Swiss SuperLuminova vintage color (Grade X1)
Choice of 4 dial designs – black Supernova, blue Supernova, black Semi-Cali & blue Semi-Cali
Hands:  Gold color, with Swiss SuperLuminova vintage color (Grade X1)

Packaging
Standard strap with buckle
1 additional strap with buckle
Screwdriver for strap changes
Travel pouch

Price
USD 599

Arnold & Son Tourbillon Chronometer No.36 Gunmetal Limited Edition

Drawing inspiration from the John Arnold pocket chronometer No. 1/36, one of the most historically significant chronometers, Arnold & Son presents the Tourbillon Chronometer No.36 Gunmetal Limited editions

The John Arnold Chronometer No. 1/36 or “Arnold 36” as it is more commonly called was not only the first pocket watch by John Arnold to use a larger movement with his “T” balance, but also the first to be referred to as a “chronometer” for its superior timekeeping capabilities. In this respect, the Tourbillon Chronometer No.36 is faithful, contemporary horological homage.

Arnold and Son Tourbillon Chronometer No.36 Gunmetal watch

John Arnold’s pocket chronometer no. 1/36 © National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London John Arnold (1736-99) successfully found the way to simplify Harrison’s timekeeper design. This watch, No 1/36, made in 1778, went so well on trial at Greenwich that Arnold decided to give it a new name. ‘

In the pamphlet he published in 1780 advertising his achievement, he called the timekeeper a ‘chronometer’ and was thus the person who invented the term in its modern sense. The watch is in fact a pocket chronometer housed in a 22-carat gold case.

Arnold and Son Tourbillon Chronometer No.36 Gunmetal watch

The new sober gunmetal coating of the case further highlights the mechanical complexity and haute horlogerie finishing of these magnificent timepieces. The gunmetal coating also pays tribute to the old English fine gunsmith tradition, which is closely related to traditional watchmaking and shares many common techniques.

Following the classical codes of traditional English chronometer movements, the main pivoting elements such as the wheels, barrels, the tourbillon, and others are each mounted on their own bridge. The triangular, multilevel bridges (no less than thirteen) are mostly skeletonized, providing a more contemporary sense of three-dimensional depth to the entire timepiece.

Arnold and Son Tourbillon Chronometer No.36 Gunmetal watch

The tourbillon, a central element of this timepiece, is highlighted in a most magnificent manner. Held by a skeletonized and mirror-polished top bridge, the one-minute tourbillon features a typically Arnold & Son three-spoke design.

Weighing mere fractions of a gram, the tourbillon cage consists of no less than 58 components. Prominently positioned on the dial side, the tourbillon can also be viewed from the back, thanks to an opening in the main plate. The same kind of opening is made below the small seconds display, adding to the symmetry of the Tourbillon Chronometer No.36.

Arnold and Son Tourbillon Chronometer No.36 Gunmetal watch

The apparent technical virtuosity of the Tourbillon Chronometer No.36 is not only a treat for the eyes, as the watch is a COSC certified chronometer; something of a rare achievement for a tourbillon-equipped timepiece.

The decorative haute horlogerie arts are also lavishly demonstrated in the Tourbillon Chronometer No.36. The entirely in-house conceived and manufactured A&S8600 calibre features a smooth sand-blasted main plate and bridges with chamfered and polished edges.

The main plate and bridges are treated with a golden coating, echoing the aesthetics of the historical pocket watches made by John Arnold. The main plate also is set with several mirror-polished 18k gold chatons, while the wheels in the gear train are embellished with circular satin finishing with chamfered and polished edges. Even the screws are beveled and feature mirror-polished heads.

Arnold and Son Tourbillon Chronometer No.36 Gunmetal watch

The heart of the watch, the tourbillon, features a traditional construction with a top bridge, while the mirror-polished cage has the signature Arnold & Son three-spoke design, making a complete turn in 60 seconds. The double barrels, embellished with laser-engraving decoration, provide a considerable power reserve of 90 hours when fully wound.

Arnold and Son Tourbillon Chronometer No.36 Gunmetal watch

The Arnold and Son Tourbillon Chronometer No.36 Gunmetal watch is limited to 28 examples.

Technical details

Model: Tourbillon Chronometer No.36 Gunmetal
Collection: Royal Collection
Limited edition: 28 timepieces
References: 1ETAS.B01A.T113S

Movement
Calibre: A&S8600
Manufacture Arnold & Son calibre, hand-wound, 33 jewels, diameter 37.8 mm, thickness 5.9 mm, power reserve 90 h, double barrel, 4 Hz / 28’800, COSC certified
Movement decoration: Nickel-silver and steel movement, 5N red gold treated bridges and main plate with Haute Horlogerie finishing: sand blasted bridges with chamfered and polished edges, 18k gold chatons, screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads
Tourbillon cage: mirror-polished with hand-chamfered polished edges and circular satin-finished surfaces

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, tourbillon

Dial
Inner bezel Rhodium treated with black indexes

Case
Sandblasted stainless steel case with dark grey DLC (“gunmetal”) coating, diameter 46 mm, cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides, see-through sapphire case back, water-resistant to 30 m

Strap
Hand-stitched brown or black alligator leather

Glashütte Original Senator Tourbillon – Edition Alfred Helwig

Paying tribute to Alfred Helwig, the inventor of the Flying Tourbillon, the new version of the Senator Tourbillon by Glashütte Original is presented in a 42 mm white gold case framing a light, silver-grained dial whose finely textured surface sets off the black laser engraved indexes and railroad chapter ring clearly.

This exclusive timepiece confirms its uniqueness in a manner as discreet as it is elegant: The Roman “index” at 1 o’clock reveals the individual numbering of the limited edition. A black Louisiana alligator leather strap with white gold foldover clasp assures a secure and stylish presence on the wrist.

Powering this timepiece is the manufactory Calibre 94-03 movement with 48-hour power reserve. Additional classic features of the Saxon art of watchmaking can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back, including the Glashütte stripe finish, blued screws and the two tone galvanized skeletonized rotor.

The Senator Tourbillon – Edition Alfred Helwig presents not one, but two classic Glashütte complications. The Panorama Date, positioned below 12 o’clock, celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. Since 1997 Glashütte Original has used two date discs arranged concentrically on the same level to ensure that one can read the date easily without a central separation bar.

Then comes the Flying tourbillon complication. The Flying Tourbillon was developed almost 100 years ago by Alfred Helwig. Following the reorientation of the Saxon watchmaker, in 1995 it was chosen for good reason as the first complication to take up the traditions of its home town.

The tourbillon was originally developed by Abraham Louis Breguet in 1801 to compensate for the effects of gravity on the rate precision of mechanical pocket watches. The ingenious construction compensates for the centre of gravity fault resulting from the vertical position of the watch by causing the entire oscillation and escapement system to turn on its axis once a minute. The effect of this movement is to ensure that the carriage, with its balance, pallet fork and escape wheel, offsets an imbalance resulting – due to its influence on only one side – in a negative impact on the rate precision of the watch. In the era of pocket watches the tourbillon was thus a revolutionary invention and a guarantee of precision. Even today its construction is considered exemplary of the highest levels of the art of watchmaking.

The Flying Tourbillion lends this principle even greater elegance, offering fascinating insights at the same time. The advanced version built by Alfred Helwig in 1920 differs from the classic tourbillion primarily in terms of aesthetics: anchored on one side only, it has no need for the top bridge, thus offering the viewer an unobstructed view of the beauty of this highly sophisticated complication.

Secured exclusively below the tourbillon base, it is this apparently weightless construction that makes it, from a watchmaker’s point of view, particularly challenging and labour intensive. In this case the tourbillon is powered from the third wheel to the fourth, which is mounted below the tourbillon and secured in the tourbillon assembly.

The escape wheel pinion protrudes from below the tourbillon and engages with the fourth wheel, secured firmly to the base plate. The rotation of the tourbillon results in the escape wheel pinion engaging the fourth wheel, which allows the escape wheel to trigger, via the pallet fork, the oscillations of the balance wheel. Thus the movement of the balance and cage can be admired without interference from a top bridge. The lightness of the construction is certainly meant to be taken literally:

The “flying” tourbillon from Glashütte Original weighs only 0.2 grams. It is comprised of 72 finely finished components, which are painstakingly decorated and assembled by hand.

Born in the region of Niederlausitz, Alfred Helwig graduated with honours in 1905, having completed his training at the German Watchmaking School Glashütte, where he remained a loyal teacher for more than forty years. Given his work and writings, he is considered one of the most important figures in the history of Glashütte watchmaking – and yet it is his invention of the Flying Tourbillon from 1920 that has secured him his place in the international annals of haute horlogerie. Today his name graces the Glashütte Original watchmaking school, located in the same building where he once worked and taught, educating the future of the Glashütte art of watchmaking.

Technical details
Case
Diameter: Ø 42 mm
Height: 13.7 mm
Material: 18 ct white gold
Waterproof up to: 5 bar
Glass: sapphire crystal, both sides anti-reflective
Bottom: sapphire crystal

Dial
Ø display 36.8 mm, varnish silver-grainé with black Roman numerals/railroad chapter
Hands: blue

Movement
CALIBRE 94-03
Dimensions: Ø 32.2 mm, height 7.65 mm, above tourbillon cage 8.45 mm
Balance: screw balance with 18 weighted screws
Oscillating frequency: 21,600 vph, equivalent to 3 Hz
Power reserve: 48 hours (+/- 5 %)
Balance spring: Anachron with Breguet overcoil
Shock protection: none
Jewels: 50 jewel bearings +2 diamond end-stones
Additional details: Automatic movement, Flying Tourbillon with second hand, hour and minute (central), Panorama Date, exquisitely finished movement, bevelled edges, polished steel parts, polished/blued screws, skeletonized rotor with 21-ct gold oscillation weight (off-centre), plate with Glashütte stripe finish

Strap
Louisiana Alligator leather strap blue
Width: 21/18 mm

Limited Edition
25 pieces

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar (Stainless Steel and Red Gold Models)

With this new Senator Excellence model, Glashütte Original lends the Perpetual Calendar complication a particularly contemporary appearance.

Powered with the in house developed Calibre 36, the complex and intelligent Perpetual Calendar mechanism of this watch guarantees a precise presentation of the date, weekday and month – even taking leap years into account – with no need for manual correction for more than one hundred years to come.

The new model takes the fundamental features of the “Excellence” line and develops them further. In their design and construction of the new movement, Glashütte Original’s engineers have made every effort to achieve maximum stability and user-friendliness while ensuring the watch remains easy to service.

Along with hours, minutes and seconds, the Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar presents the characteristic Glashütte Original Panorama Date, a finely worked moon phase, and weekday, month and leap year indicators.

Setting and adjustment of the watch is very simple. For example, setting of the date can be monitored directly in the display window, while discreet correctors on the case enable adjustments to weekday, month and moon phase displays. Although the exceptional power reserve of 100 hours ensures the correct interplay of the displays for many hours after its owner has set the watch aside, the eminently practical universal corrector makes it possible – should it ever prove necessary – to change the day, date and month with a few simple moves.

While it is true that the many different displays on the Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar offer exceptional legibility, they deserve a second – or even a third – look. Every detail has been honed to perfection by experienced artisans in the watchmaker’s own dial manufactory. The curve of the moon phase at 8 o’clock, for instance, echoes the gently sweeping lines of the case, while the domed moon in relief is set off by a starry, galvanic blue sky.

The Panorama Date at 4 o’clock as well as weekday and month windows are presented, as in a passe-partout, in a softly curved frame. For the leap year one need only glance at a separate display beneath hour 12. The hand moves counter-clockwise across a scale of 1 to 4, ensuring unmistakable clarity for every year, not just the clearly marked leap year.

The watch features a 42 mm diameter case, available in satin-polished stainless steel or red gold, and is water resistant to 5 bar (50 meters). The light hue of the silver-grained dial is echoed in the window displays and highlights in contrast the laser-cut, galvanic black indexes and railroad chapter ring. While the stainless steel model presents the leap year and minute numerals in black, in the red gold version these are printed in red, complemented by slim, blued-steel hands and an elegant black or brown Louisiana alligator leather bracelet with pin buckle or foldover clasp.

The Calibre 36 automatic movement was developed to meet the demand conditions of life today. An innovative silicon spiral enables extreme precision, while a single spring barrel ensures a power reserve of more than 100 hours, at a frequency of 4 Hertz (28,800 half oscillations per hour).

The latest addition to the ever-expanding family of movements from Glashütte Original is dedicated to stability in two ways: in terms of rate precision – due to its compact construction – but also in its use of an innovative bayonet mount to securing the movement within the case. Finally, refined decorative finishing and characteristic Glashütte construction features ensure that the inner and outer beauty of the mechanical heart complement each other in a harmonious manner – in all versions of the Senator Excellence.

The Senator Excellence line fulfils the watchmaker’s promise of a new standard of quality. Each of these watches – perpetual calendar, three-hand model, with Panorama Date or Panorama Date and moon phase – is subjected in the Saxon manufactory to a series of rigorous tests over a period of 24 days, under conditions even more demanding than those of the challenging German Chronometer test.

The requirements are identical for all Senator Excellence models, regardless of the type or number of complications. A special engraving on the case back serves as the seal of quality on every single watch. In addition, the owner of a Senator Excellence is provided with the key test results for his watch in the form of an individual Examination Certificate. An exclusive online portal also offers the owner access to comprehensive information regarding the various testing procedures, along with the complete test results.

Technical details
Movement
Calibre 36-02
Dimensions: Ø 32.2 mm, height 7.35 mm
Balance: screw balance with 4 regulation screws gold 14 ct
Oscillating frequency: 28,800 vph, equivalent to 4 Hz
Power reserve: 100 hours
Balance spring: silicon
Shock protection: Incabloc
Jewels: 49 jewel bearings
Additional details: Automatic winding, hour/minute/second (central), second stop, Perpetual Calendar with day of the week/month/leap year display, Panorama Date, moon phase, exquisitely finished movement, polished steel parts, polished/blued screws, three-quarter plate/ balance cock/rotor with Glashütte stripe finish, bevelled edges, skeletonized rotor with 21-ct gold oscillation weight, adjustment of rate by adjustment screws, fine adjustment rate symmetry using swan-neck spring

Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar. Stainless Steel
Case
Diameter: Ø 42 mm
Height: 12.8 mm
Material: stainless steel
Waterproof up to: 5 bar
Glass: domed sapphire crystal, both sides anti-reflective
Bottom: sapphire crystal

Dial
Ø display 36.8 mm, varnish silver-grainé with engraved black hour markers/Roman numerals/ railroad chapter galvanized in black
Hands: blue

Strap
Width: 21/18 mm
Models with Louisiana Alligator leather strap black
REF. 1-36-02-01-02-01: Stainless steel buckle, 18 mm
REF. 1-36-02-01-02-30: Stainless steel fold fastener std., 18 mm
REF. 1-36-02-01-02-50: Stainless steel short fold fastener, 18 mm
Model with bracelet
REF. 1-36-02-01-02-70: Stainless steel bracelet

Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar. Red Gold
Case
Diameter: Ø 42 mm
Height: 12.8 mm
Material: 18 ct red gold
Waterproof up to: 5 bar
Glass: domed sapphire crystal, both sides anti-reflective
Bottom: sapphire crystal

Dial
Ø display 36.8 mm, varnish silver-grainé with engraved black hour markers/Roman numerals/ railroad chapter galvanized in black, Arabic numerals printed in red
Hands: blue

Strap
Width: 21/18 mm
Models with Louisiana Alligator leather strap dark brown
REF. 1-36-02-02-05-01: Red gold buckle, 18 mm
REF. 1-36-02-02-05-30: Red gold fold fastener std., 18 mm
REF. 1-36-02-02-05-50: Red gold short fold fastener, 18 mm