Category: NOVELTIES 2014

ZEITWINKEL

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

ZEITWINKEL is an independent Swiss watch brand co-founded by Prof. Ivica Maksimovic and Peter Nikolaus .

As an independent manufacturer of highest quality wrist watches from Switzerland, Zeitwinkel develops own, proprietary solutions for its mechanical movements and for the design of its watches. Zeitwinkel products stand for precision engineering and an elegantly timeless design.

All watches are developed and manufactured in the Swiss Jura region, with the two manufacture movements ZW0102 and ZW0103 as their most distinctive feature.

Zeitwinkel watches come in two sizes: the “Midsize” collection with a diameter of 39mm and the “Classic” collection with a 42.5mm diameter. All dials have a special galvanic coating that produces the characteristic black, silver, rhodium and blue color shades.

The flagship model 273° adds further functions to hour, minute, and small-second – the classic three hand configuration. The Zeitwinkel manufacture movement ZW0103 was specifically developed for this watch: It offers a semi-integrated date module, reserve power display, self-winding feature and 72 hours reserve power, balance stop as well as a large date display with quickset feature.

Behind the attractive outward appearance of every Zeitwinkel watch hides an exclusive Zeitwinkel manufacture movement with decorated plates and bridges as well as a durable three-quarter plate made of elaborately decorated German silver. The characteristic stainless steel case is unmistakable due to its clear-cut profiling and the exquisite interplay of polished and burnished surfaces.

Zeitwinkel is independent of corporate affiliation and strives to maintain credibility and quality in every situation. Accordingly, it was decided very early on to develop own solutions for movement and product design.

Timeline

  • 2006:  Inception. The brand name Zeitwinkel is created, the product attributes and company philosophy are devised.
  • 2007:  The beginning of product development and design
  • 2008:  Zeitwinkel AG and Zeitwinkel Montres SA are founded. Design and movement are developed. The first prototypes are built.
  • 2009: Final prototypes are built and serial manufacture of movements is commenced.
  • 2010: Market launch in Switzerland, Germany and Austria. Debut presentation at the Baselworld
  • 2011: Entry into selected markets outside of Europe
  • 2012: Debut presentation of the new Midsize-collection. Establishment of a sales network in the US and Japan
  • 2013: Classic line with Galvano blue dial color, new women’s line. Extension of sales network in Asia and Europe
  • 2014: Expansion of the worldwide network of authorized concessionaires, Redesign of web presence and e-boutique, introduction of new model versions.

Founders

Prof. Ivica “Maks” Maksimovic
Besides his professorship in communication design and his long-time passion for watches, Ivica Maksimovic is characterized by his subtle humor. These attributes make him the ideal spokesman for a product that requires explanation that separates itself from the mainstream of celebrity testimonials, glamorous advertising and rapidly changing product cycles, based on standard movements.

Peter Nikolaus
Peter Nikolaus has been in the business of distributing high quality watches, mostly in Asia and North America, for nearly twenty years. As one of Zeitwinkel’s creators, he brought much of his conviction and personality into the brand and the products. He is currently focused on coordinating the manufacturing in Switzerland and on meeting with as many customers as possible.

Contact details

Zeitwinkel Montres SA
Rue Pierre-Jolissaint 35, CH-2610 Saint-Imier
Switzerland
Website:  www.zeitwinkel.ch

Backes & Strauss Piccadilly Princess Royal Colours Natural Coloured Diamonds

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

As the name suggests, the Backes & Strauss Piccadilly Princess ‘Royal Colours’ is a lady’s cocktail watch bedecked in a variety of spectacular stones which reflect all the colours of the rainbow – and more.

No two examples of the Piccadilly Princess Royal Colours will be alike, nor can they be – because each watch is created using a unique hand-picked selection of white and fancy-coloured diamonds which are individually set to create an unrepeatable, one-off pattern.

Starting with a simple, 18 carat white gold case, the watch is created by hand-setting ‘royal colours’ diamonds of no fewer than 66 different colour hues and 10 different cuts on the dial, case and bracelet. Combining the various cuts (Baguette, Cushion, Marquise, Oval, Pear, Princess, Ascher, Emerald, Heart and Round Brilliant Cut) creates an impression of a piece that has been formed by a happy coincidence of nature, almost as if diamonds had been casually scattered across the watch.

But closer inspection reveals that each of the 225 stones – one to mark every year since Backes & Strauss was founded – has been set in a process taking hundreds of hours of our master craftsmen.

Technical details
Size: PC37
Case: 18 carat White Gold case set with Natural Coloured Diamonds
22 diamonds – 9.04 carats
Dial: Set with White and Natural Coloured diamonds
65 diamonds – 3.37 carats
Hands: Sword-shaped hands
Movement: Quartz
Display: Hours and minutes
Bracelet: Jewellery Bracelet in White Gold set with White and Natural Coloured Diamonds
138 diamonds – 26.28 carats
Total carats: 225 diamonds – 38.69 carats

Backes & Strauss – The Royal Jester

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

The Backes & Strauss ‘Royal Jester’ is a bespoke watch series.

The Jester (court jester, or fool) was an important appointment in many royal courts during the medieval and Renaissance eras. His role was considered vital to the smooth running of the royal court, his humorous antics were often seen as the fruit of divine inspiration and his position was one of privilege.

The watch is so named because of its circular theme, in the centre of which a sparkling routine is performed by its very own version of the jester in the form of a single, round, Brilliant diamond weighing above 1.01 carats in either the finest colourless or natural coloured diamonds.

But the magnificent ‘jester’ diamond is not the only amusing aspect of this small and very special line of watches, each of which will be a bespoke piece with a different central stone – choose from the afore mentioned diamond, or indulge in courtly colours with a central stone of intense blue, intense pink or fancy vivid yellow. Around the outside of the case, there are a further 80 diamonds weighing 10.50 carats, with the dial being masterfully invisibly set with two rows of baguettes weighing 2.4 carats. Each distinctive timepiece has a single diamond hand set in the crown, the Backes & Strauss signature “Jewel in the Crown”.

A further 40 baguettes (0.85 carat) can be seen between the discreet, crimson hour and minute markers, which are ingeniously mounted on crystal discs to create the impression that they are simply floating, unconnected to any mechanism, in the great tradition of the mystery timekeeper.
These timepieces are driven by a superb mechanical movement with 36 hours of power reserve.

Technical details

Case
18-carat white gold case set with 80 diamonds – 10.50cts
Size: 40 mm
Crown: One ideal-cut diamond “the Jewel in the Crown” – 0.06 carat

Dial
– Centre stone: Ideal-Cut Hearts & Arrows Diamond 1.01 carats
Colour: D
Clarity: Internally Flawless
Grading report: GIA (Gemmological Institute of America)
– Cluster of 40 Baguettes set in 2 rows all individually polished and set invisibly, total 2.41 carats surrounding the centre stone
– Hour marker: Red hour markers covered with crystal glass
– 40 Baguettes diamonds set – 0.85 carat set between the Minute and hour marker
– 40 Baguettes diamonds set – 0.95 carat surrounding the Minute marker

Movement
Mechanical movement with 36 hours of power reserve

Display
Hours and minutes

Bracelet
Alligator leather strap
Buckle: 18-carat white gold deployant buckle or ardillon buckle set with 30 Ideal-cut diamonds
Water resistant to 30 meters

Diamonds
Ideal-Cut Round brilliant diamonds: 2 1.07 carats
Baguette diamonds: 200 14.71carats
Total Carats: 202 diamonds 15.78 carats

Backes & Strauss – The Berkeley John Bull

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Proudly wearing the British colours on its diamond studded dial, the Berkeley John Bull watch marks the passing of over two centuries since Backes & Strauss established its first London office in the heart of the Hatton Garden diamond district. Named after the iconic and exquisitely manicured square whose trees were planted in the founding year of Backes & Strauss, the new John Bull timepiece is inspired by the honoured and most celebrated symbol and personification of unshakeable Britishness: John Bull.

Its dial is set with 202 Ideal Cut diamonds, 198 rubies and 92 sapphires to create the instantly recognisable pattern of the Union Jack flag, behind which lies a self-winding, mechanical movement. The 18 carat white gold case, meanwhile, is set with 124 further diamonds around the bezel, with a single, Ideal Cut diamond nestling in the crown.

The watch is completed with the addition of an alligator leather strap fitted with a white gold diamond set buckle.

Technical details
Model: The Berkeley John Bull
Size: 40mm
Case: 18k white goldcase set with 44 diamonds – 8.50 cts
Dial: Union jack dial set with 92 Sapphires (0.63 cts), 198 Rubies (1.48 cts) and 202 Ideal-cut diamonds (0.69 cts).
Crown: One Ideal Cut diamond “The Jewel in the Crown” – 0.12cts
Hands: Sword-shaped hands
Movement: Automatic movement
Display: Hours, minutes & seconds
Bracelet: Alligator leather strap
Buckle: 30 Ideal cut diamonds form a heart buckle – 0.48 cts.
Total Carats: Ideal Cut diamonds (2.20 carats)

Memorigin Orbit Series Lady and Gent

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Introduced in 2014 and available in both ladies and gent’s versions, the Memorigin Orbit Series watch collection will let you imagine the beauty of the dawn. The stunning “mother of pearl”, shining with unique colours, encircles and decorates the multi-level dial.

With the classic Roman indexes, you will dream the fantasy expressed by the reflection of the shining “mother of pearl” though the light. Especially, the tourbillon, rotating continuously as the heart of the entire watch, injects the life to everything alike. This watch comes in stainless steel case and black alligator strap.

Not only does the dial have the rich detailed design, but the back of the watch also surprises all the watch collectors. Memorigin specially engraved the semicircular rotor of the movement with skeletal pattern, enriching with the artistic elements on the design. Although it is an automatic tourbillon watch, Memorigin still reserves the traditional winding method to all – manual winding.

Technical details

Orbit Series – Gent. / Orbit Series – Lady
Suggested retail price: HKD 32000 (Gent.) / HKD32500 (Lady)

Orbit Series – Gent
Model No.: AT0221
214 pieces of subassembly module and 25 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 Oscillation/Hour
The tourbillon located at 6 o’clock rotate at a speed of 60s for one circle
Flying Tourbillon
40 hours power reserve
Self-winding mechanism (Bi-Directional Winding)
Alligator Strap
Both sides sapphire crystal

Orbit Series – Lady
Model No.: AT0126
191 pieces of subassembly module and 33 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 Oscillation/Hour
The tourbillon located at 6 o’clock rotate at a speed of 60s for one circle
50 hours power reserve
Off-Centered Tourbillon
Self-winding mechanism (Bi-Directional Winding)
The balance wheel and the escapement system encircle the center of balance wheel Alligator Strap
Both sides sapphire crystal

Memorigin – The Time Machine, Designed by Mark Lui

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Designed by Hong Kong based artist Mark Lui, the Time Machine from Memorigin is a modern tourbillon watch, while embracing a classic appearance. Through collaborating with Memorigin, Mark has been inspired by the brand philosophy of the fusion of traditional craftsmanship and modern cogitation.

With the combination of the above ideas, the concept of “steampunk” came across in his mind, where it was related to the industrial revolution of steamed mechanics dated back to the 19th Century.

Mark Lui had designed his tourbillon with both modern and classic design, combining with a rough feeling to produce a very special tourbillon that’s different from the ones in the market. There are 4 circular windows on the watch surface as one of the major breakthrough. Each of them is of different height giving us different visual delights at different perspectives.

The 4 circular windows symbolize factory smokestacks, where it also looks as if it is a telescope that attracts us to look into mechanical mystery. Looking in the user’s perspective, the crown is also coming with a cushion to avoid any injuries during winding the watch.

There are two shades for “The Time Machine”, giving us very different perceptions. The rose gold surface coupled with a dark brown alligator strap gives a retro feeling while the silver surface is coupled with a navy blue alligator strap giving simplicity and a modern style.

Technical details

“The Time Machine”
Model No.: MO 0147
Price: HKD48,800
ISA and Memorigin Specialty store exclusive

At least 188 pieces of subassembly module and 21 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 Oscillation/Hour
The tourbillon located at 12 o’clock rotate at a speed of 60s for one circle
Flying Tourbillon
60 hours power reserve
24 hours indicator
Twin mainspring barrel
Power reserve indicator
Day / night indicator
Crocodile leather strap (large-grid)
Both sides sapphire crystal

Memorigin KuTour Typhoon and Tweed Tourbillons by Ms. Priscilla Ku

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Hong Kong actress – Ms. Priscilla Ku, who is also a GIA jewelry appraiser and designer, has been enthusiastic on the jewelry design for many years. She aims to merge her fashion sense with the traditional jewelry design. The fashionable appearance and magnificent function are penetrated successfully in her designs. Furthermore, she has designed an extraordinary phase on her artworks that accessory can be divided and assembled to feature with different apparels which enhances the utility and freshness of the jewelry.

In 2014, Ms. Priscilla Ku worked with a Hong Kong tourbillon brand – Memorigin for creating her own brand – KuTour. Two separate tourbillon series, Typhoon and Tweed, were launched under the timeless effort of Memorigin and Ms. Priscilla Ku.

Typhoon is a tourbillon watch based on the satellite image of a typhoon passing through China, Hong Kong and Taiwan. On the dial, the curve lines represent the isobars of the satellite image. With diamonds in different colours encircled, they form the continental and ocean alike. In the middle, it is the location of Hong Kong. The typhoon is transformed into rotating tourbillon. Besides, the harmony among China, Hong Kong and Taiwan is the extraordinary blessing from the watch design. By using different diamonds with different colours, the details and shining gems enriched everyone’s eyesight.

For Tweed, the design inspiration comes from the checked woollen cloth pattern with a simple colour tone. In order to form the interweave effect of the woollen cloth perfectly, different kind of gems were assembled like the black gems, sapphire, diamonds and grey diamonds. Thus, the jewelry workers spent unlimited working hours on the cutting process to imitate the sophisticated pattern of the woollen cloth.

Apart from the special design on the appearance, a deep inspiration about life is implied. She aims to express the true meaning of harmony. Just like the pattern of the fabric, the circular outlook with rectangular inner design implies the concept of Chinese proverbs “following the rule and act wisely”.

Typhoon tourbillon watch

  • Model No. : KU0901
  • Diameter: approx. 40 mm
  • 18K white gold weight: approx. 64.22g
  • (Case, crown and buckle include)
  • Diamond Quantity: approx. 403pcs
  • (Yellow diamond quantity: approx. 265pcs; White diamond: approx. 138pcs)
  • Diamond Weight: approx. 5.28 Carat
  • (Yellow diamond quantity: approx. 3.93Carat; diamond: approx. 1.35Carat)
  • Off-centered tourbillon
  • 158 pieces of subassembly module and 23 jewels
  • Frequency: 28,800 Oscillation/ Hour
  • The Tourbillon located at 5 o’clock rotates at a speed of 60s for one circle
  • Power reserve of 60 hours
  • White devil rays strap
  • Yellow diamond crown (approx. 0.23 Carat)
  • (1 pc yellow diamond, approx. 0.09 Carat; White Diamond 45 pcs, approx. 0.14Carat
  • Both sides sapphire crystal
  • Price:  HKD $428,000

Tweed tourbillon watch

  • Model No. : KU1224
  • Diameter: approx. 40 mm
  • 18K white gold weight: approx. 59.21g
  • (Case, crown and buckle include)
  • Diamond Quantity: approx. 558pcs
  • Diamond Weight: approx. 3.34 Carat
  • Black sapphire quantity: approx. 19pcs
  • Black sapphire weight: approx. 1.12Carat
  • Off-centered tourbillon
  • 158 pieces of subassembly module and 23 jewels
  • Frequency: 28,800 Oscillation/ Hour
  • The Tourbillon located at 6 o’clock rotates at a speed of 60s for one circle
  • Power reserve of 60 hours
  • Alligator strap
  • Diamond crown (approx. 0.23 Carat, 46pcs)
  • Both sides sapphire crystal
  • Price:  HKD $368,000

 

Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Type 370 – Bugatti 10eme Anniversaire Rose Gold Ruthenium Mythe, Reference PFH340-1012700-HC3042

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

Introduced in 2014, this timepiece celebrates the 10th anniversary of Bugatti Type 370, the first timepiece born from the partnership between Parmigiani Fleurier and Bugatti.

The partnership between the two prestigious companies was formalised in 2004. Since then, the Fleurier based manufacture has striven to create timepieces for the Bugatti collection which are far more than a watch stamped with a car marque logo; they are cars reborn in watch form. The Bugatti 370, the first timepiece which celebrated the creation of the partnership in 2004.

Launched in 2004, the Bugatti 370 features a movement built according to a horizontal axis. It’s a world first. To celebrate the 10th anniversary of the partnership, in 2014, Parmigiani Fleurier announced the unveiling of three limited editions of the Bugatti timepiece.

Bugatti Mythe

The brand has decided to take the iconic Bugatti 370 model, and its transverse tubular movement, as its basis. This piece, which marked the creation of the partnership in 2004, demonstrates the brand’s cutting-edge creative spirit and the quest for technical excellence which made it possible.

The Bugatti Mythe, the Bugatti Victoire and the Bugatti Révélation are the new versions of this Anniversary Limited Edition. These three pieces share an aesthetic which harks back to the artisan’s traditional techniques. In this respect, the collection moves away from the hi-tech, futuristic spirit which prevailed in some of the Bugatti creations of this first decade: the titanium of the Bugatti Vitesse case middle, for example, or the black carbon of the Bugatti Super Sport dial.

The first of the Anniversary Edition timepieces, the aesthetic of the Bugatti Mythe is based on an emblematic Bugatti component: the legendary Type 57 grille. This grille, which graced the very first Bugatti cars, has a striking structure, formed of lines rather than mesh. These lines are echoed in the watch dial and they extend downward beyond its perimeter, affirming the Art Deco style which made the historic grille such a success.

In addition to this homage to Bugatti’s history, the Bugatti Mythe timepiece also pays tribute to the ongoing collaboration between industrial and artisan traditions in both the automotive and watchmaking worlds. Inextricably linked at Bugatti, industry and craftsmanship see their potential combined in every creation, and this is what the brand’s reputation is based on.

The Bugatti Mythe evokes this marriage through the dual-colour effect of the surfaces of its case middle. A mottled anthracite grey surface, which reinforces its «industrial» appearance, represents this side of the spectrum; the burnished, gold surfaces reflect the refined, artisan side. The Bugatti Mythe is possessed of a powerful symbolism, which encapsulates the history of two brands and the success of a collaboration.

Technical details
Model: Bugatti type 370 Mythe

Movement
Calibre: PF370
Winding: Manual using a dynamometric starter
Power reserve indicated on the side of a rotating drum
Power-reserve: 10 days

Frequency: 3 Hz – 21.600 A/h
Dimensions: 21.00 x 16.00 x 27.40 mm
Components: 314
Jewels: 37
Barrel(s): 2 series-coupled barrels
Decoration: Circular-grained hand-belleved main plates, Bugatti design

Functions
Hours and minutes
Power reserve indication engraved on drum

Case
Shape: Special
Dimensions: 32.40 x 52.50 mm
Thickness: 18.6 mm
Material: 18 ct rose gold
Finishing: Satin, polished hammered
Water-resistance: 10 m
Glass: Anti-reflective sapphire
Back: Sapphire
Back engraving: Individual number, « 2004-2014 » Modèle Unique »

Dial
Material: 18 ct rose gold
Colour: Rose gold and ruthenium
Index: Transfered
Finishing: « Grille » dial
Hands: Delta-shaped with luminescent coating

Bracelet
Material: Calf
Colour: Ebony
Brand: Hermès

Buckle
Type: Folding
Material: Rose gold

RESSENCE TYPE 1

MasterHorologerLeave a comment

RESSENCE represents a new way of thinking about fine mechanical watches – no less expertly hand-crafted, but with an industrial design philosophy that seeks to be progressive and a clear, graphic aesthetic that is decidedly 21st century. What really lights up the TYPE 1 is the original thinking behind it. Or rather, the re-thinking that comes with a different perspective.

The watch has no crown, for example, the winding/setting mechanism being the case-back itself, for better ergonomics and allowing a left-right fit. It is all tactile curves, the domed sapphire glass extending to the very edge of the case – making the watch more sapphire than metal, in fact – the lugs seemingly part of the case too, an organic whole. And that’s no illusion – lugs and case are milled in one action from the same grade 5 titanium block.

But, most strikingly, and characteristic of RESSENCE, is the lack of conventional hands. Here the time is displayed via its patented, 107-part Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS1) – a complex mechanism driving convex sub-discs that continually revolve, as does the main disc into which they are set, like moons in orbit around a planet.

This allows the curved dial to be set closer to the sapphire glass, which gives a sense of immediacy to the look and aids legibility. It also means that the watch’s uncluttered face is ever-changing – as everything is in time.

For all its seeming simplicity, it can transfix. It’s all about the experience – not an obsession with little cogs and wheels. Indeed, rather than being proudly displayed, the sophisticated mechanics of the operation are hidden away beneath a smooth surface.

Technical details
Functions
Hours
Minutes
Seconds
Week Days

Movement
Patented ROCS 1 – Ressence Orbital Convex System – driven by the minute axle of a specially customised 2824/2 calibre
Caseback winding and time setting
Self-winding
36 hours power reserve
28,800 vibrations per hour
40 jewels
27 gears

Dial
Convex German silver dial (125mm radius) with 3 eccentric biaxial satellites inclined at 3° (hours) and 4.75° (seconds and week days)
Engraved indications filled with Superluminova

Case
Grade 5 titanium
Domed sapphire crystals top and bottom with both sides anti-reflective coating
42mm (diameter) x 13 mm (thickness)
1 ATM water-resistance

Strap
Strap (20/29mm)
Ardillon Buckle in grade 5 titanium

Total Components
212

Prices
TYPE 1B, CH, N, R, S, W : 17.500 EUR (20% VAT included)
TYPE 1G: 22.500 EUR (20% VAT included)
TYPE 1RG: 29.500 EUR (20% VAT included)