The topic of homages has always been divisive in the watch-loving community, and as in any partisanship, the positions are all the sharper, the more heartfelt the diatribe.

On one side are those who believe each watch should remain distinct, as the result of independent technical and stylistic research, and should be left untouched, without any reference, actual or alleged, from other manufacturers.

On the other hand, some believe that ideas are in the air and that it is therefore not only inevitable but necessary for these to be shared so that the industry, as a whole, makes them its own, grinds them down, and uses them to move forward.

And this is only from a formal point of view: if we go down into the more practical aspects of business, we are confronted with even different aspects. But first of all, we need clarity on what precisely a homage is since the meaning of this definition sometimes eludes some enthusiasts.

What is a homage, and what is a copy

A homage is a watch inspired by aesthetic canons similar to those of another timepiece produced by a certain Maison, which obviously predates the first one and probably represents an iconic model.

However, a homage differs in several aesthetic and technical details from the original model, primarily by bearing a different brand name on its dial, thus making it impossible to confuse them, even on superficial examination. This is the main reason why producing a homage is perfectly legal.

Copies, on the other hand, attempt to copy as faithfully as possible the main watch, imitating it aesthetically (and in the case of the most extreme copies, i.e., clones, also from a technical point of view) to make them in distinguishable from the original, including creating a dial bearing a fake logo.

The difference, on closer inspection, is all in this approach. Whereas a homage is not intended to confuse people, a copy is produced solely for that reason. And so, this ethically places the two cases on very different planes.

How to determine which one is the model?

Typically, determining who was the first model of a specific design is not particularly difficult: we just rely on a time criterion. For example, the Rolex GMT Master was the first GMT watch of that precise type created in the world in 1954. Its introduction then caused a long wave of other Maisons that paid homage to it, or rather, used similar stylistic canons in their GMT models.

It started to get more complicated with the Rolex Submariner and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. As many will know, these two models came out on exactly the same occasion in the same year and were, if not the same, strikingly similar. So, how to determine the principal model to refer to?

In this case, history took care of that: for reasons of diffusion (ah, marketing), the Rolex Submariner grew over the years to become, de facto, the reference model for a particular type of diver’s watch, relegating the equally noble Fifty Fathoms to the empyrean of the knowledge of a few.

And we close with a case where it is impossible to trace the history to single out one model. We are talking about the Flieger watches, produced just before WWII by different houses in Germany, following specifications dictated by their patron, in the case of these, the Luftwaffe.

And between Pilot’s watches and B-Uhrs, we have today a host of Flieger watches, of which the best known is the IWC Little Prince, itself an homage to a model developed earlier. But who was its first manufacturer among Lange, Laco, Stowa, IWC, Wempe, and others? We do not know.

The good reasons for a homage

Let’s face it: watchmaking is a beautiful but expensive passion. And certain particular watches are either very expensive, impossible to buy, or both at once. In the most classic case, despite recent price settlements, a Rolex Submariner is unlikely to fetch less than $10,000, representing a substantial sum for many.

Still, so many admire its qualities and design, which faithfully reproduces the original launched some 70 years ago. So, the choice is to save up to buy one after a few years (and we are typically talking about many years, so a major project) or to rely on a good homage that costs ten times less and is available immediately.

 

Mainly because most homages possess technical characteristics that are sometimes even superior to those of the model they refer to.

The best tributes, made by companies such as Davosa, Steinhart, and even former giants like Revue Thommen, mount very well-made calibres produced by the best houses on the market, such as ETA, Sellita, and Seiko, sometimes with COSC certification, and offer water resistance equal to or better.

In terms of materials and finishing, we are also on the same level: grade 5 titanium cases, AR-treated sapphire crystal, ceramic bezels, or other technical materials, carefully assembled and finished.

Besides the name on the dial, the real difference is the price you pay for them. Otherwise, the experience, from a technical and functional point of view, is precisely the same.

The first “homagist” has royal origins

Needless to deny: one of the most homage houses is the House of the Crown, and the Submariner, besides being the world’s best-known watch, is also the most homaged and imitated timepiece in the world. But historically, all Swiss houses had different lines within their production, and often, other brands.

Rolex itself deposited many different brands that it then used especially early in its history, or then sold to others, as happened, for example, with Wintex (yes, it was a Rolex brand). But there is one brand that the Geneva-based Maison, on the other hand, has held on to tightly: Tudor.

Tudor has always been considered Rolex’s “little sister”: the two brands shared designs, materials, and often, components, but Tudor mounted ready-made movements produced by outside houses (so-called ebauche) while Rolex, after its beginnings when it relied on Aegler’s calibers, mounted manufacture movements.

And as far as price was concerned, Tudor offered Rolex quality and a major brand at a lower price than Rolex itself. This was a win-win positioning: in this way, Rolex could also extend its offerings to a more affordable segment, and watch enthusiasts could buy good watches with very similar designs to Rolex watches even without having to open a mortgage. As Rolex continues to tweak prices upward, the gap between the two brands widens and, thus, affects more and more people.

In short: the first homage manufacturer was Rolex itself. And so one is a bit surprised when one hears heavy statements about design originality that must be protected.

In summary

We do not think the debate between the two opposing sides can be reduced and defined in an article since this has not happened in decades. From our point of view, which is certainly more practical, we think the homage phenomenon has its validity and dignity.

It is said that imitation is the sincerest form of admiration, and this must be true if we believe the proverbs: but from our point of view, we know that the creation of homage often represents the first step for so many modern Maisons, which then began to follow their path once they had clearly defined what it was.

We do not believe that originality at all costs is necessary. Quite the contrary: the study of the productions of past geniuses – and we are talking about Genta and Breguet – is undoubtedly an essential element in building this immense cathedral of commitment and technique that is the art of watchmaking. And the world of homage, in its various forms, is a pillar of it.

The Author

Franz Rivoira is a notable horology expert and journalist, quite famous for his activity on Quora. He has cooperated with several websites dedicated to luxury and horology, among which his latest is MicroBrand Watch World, a magazine dedicated to the phenomenon of microbrands. He is the author of several e-books about horology (The Watch Manual).

The watch industry has all kinds of timepieces and horology is huge when it comes tobrands. The most elite watch enthusiasts only work with manufacturers that are known for their craftsmanship. Unfortunately, this isn’t fashion brands as they focus more on the look of their devices than the quality of parts in them. Watch-snobs use “fashion watches” as a derogatory term for timepieces that only look good.

We’re pretty fond of them. Countless brands are producing these timepieces, which is why we had to review them. We ran through all the reasons they’re worth the purchase.

They’re Freely Available

Back in the old days, watches were not that common – pocket watches ruled. Everyone has a wristwatch now. From the timepieces available, fashion watches are easily amongst the most popular. We think they’re the most popular type as manufacturers who don’t primarily make watches produce them as well.

As they’re readily available, you can find them in all kinds of styles, which would reflect who you are as a person. You can also find several pieces with the design you want, easily snagging one that’s well within your budget.

They Look Good

Swiss watches are so expensive as they’re packed with features. This is not true for fashion pieces, but they’ll look as good, even better. Don’t take the “fashion” in their name lightly – manufacturers produce them solely to look good. You might not guess it, but a lot of effort has gone into their aesthetic. As they’re so many of them available, it won’t be hard for you to find a stunning one.

Good Parts

As you know, watch enthusiasts aren’t huge on fashion watches. This is as horology is important to them, and they believe fashion watches focus more on appearance than parts or quality of movements. This isn’t entirely true – the manufacturers producing the timepieces put in just as much effort.

It’s hard to generalize them, especially when brands like Nixon are around.  Nixon is an American manufacturer that produces watches that are affordable, good-looking, and have great movements. They entered the game as they weren’t happy with the quality of cheap watches on the market.

We have to say, their timepieces are some of our favorites.  There are countless names like it – such as Jack Mason. They have great lines. Each collection is inspired by something, so you’re getting craftsmanship in their devices.

They’re Affordable

Not only do they look good, but they’re very affordable. As established, manufacturers focus a lot on the device’s appearance than the features it comes with. This results in a watch that’s well within anyone’s budget.

Some fashion watch manufacturers, like fossil, make their products look expensive. You’ll easily be able to fool people into thinking you spent an arm and a leg on them. Some lesser-known manufacturers do a good job at this too – like Megir. However, Megir produces watches that aren’t that great in quality.

As fashion pieces are everywhere, you can easily snag a deal on them. It won’t take you long to find a retailer selling them at a discount. Names like Akribos, Burei, and Nixon are known to regularly put their products on sale.

You Won’t Care About Damaging Them

You don’t have to be a watch enthusiast to know that watches can be very expensive. The Rolex Daytona costs well over $10,000. Fashion brands produce watches that cost a fraction of the price. If you were to shatter your Rolex’s display, you’d be incredibly disappointed. To get the timepiece fixed, you’ll have to pay a lot too. Not only would be affected less when you damage a fashion watch, but you can easily get a new one instead of having it replaced.

You’re Getting Dupes

In the watch world, designing watches that look similar to more expensive ones is called paying homage. Rolex has a myriad of brands paying tribute to them. This is especially true for the Rolex Submariner. Paying tribute and copying a timepiece is different. Tributes look similar, but they’re not identical.

More acclaimed brands generally don’t replicate other timepieces as the practice is looked down upon. However, fashion watch manufacturers don’t have such a reputation to live up to, so they replicate expensive watches all the time.

Watch enthusiasts are more linear with fashion brands as they’re not known for their horology. This results in a device that not only is affordable but looks expensive. Your loved ones would stop and stare – especially if you have a device replicating Audemar’s Piguet’s watches; they’re ultra-chic.

As you can imagine, tribute watches aren’t as expensive as the originals they’re duping. However, they’re still not that cheap. Invicta’s homages of the Submariner can cost up to $500. If you were to pick up a tribute a fashion brand made – not a replica, you’ll be spending a fraction of the price.

They’re Great Gifts

If you’re looking for a gift, a fashion watch should be at the top of your list. Not only are they affordable, but they’re freely available. This would allow you to get one that your loved one would adore.

Don’t forget that they look great too, which is just as important. They make show-stopper gifts as they come in boxes that make them look especially luxurious. This is especially true if you’re purchasing from an American fashion watch manufacturer.

Conclusion

What do you think about fashion watches? We think they’re great timepieces that not only look good but are super affordable. Many watch enthusiasts think they don’t match up to regular watches as they only focus on appearance. If you look around, you’ll find fashion brands that produce watches that are of superb quality. A good example of this is Nixon.

Of course, they make great gifts too. They come with automatic mechanisms, which make them as intricate as their counterparts and freely available as well. All in all, we think they’re fabulous purchases. So, which of the above points sold fashion watches the most?

[Note: This is a Guest post written by Callum Gough]

Since Apple launched its first smartwatch, kickstarting the trend and encouraging other tech giants to take a plunge in the sector, the technology has come a long way.

Smartphones today can serve a wide range of functions, below are just five of the most significant uses.

 

1. Fitness Tracker

One of the most common uses of smartwatches is as fitness trackers. Even basic smartwatches usually come with a pedometer function that counts the users’ steps. However, some smartwatches will only provide these functions if they are paired with a smartphone that contains the necessary companion app. You should check before you buy your smartwatch.

2. Receiving Notifications

Having to pull your smartphone out of your pocket every time you receive a new message or alert can quickly get annoying. But with a smartwatch, you can not only check your notifications just by glancing at your wrist, but you can also respond to many of them using your watch, depending on the specific model you have.

3. Controlling Media

The other common reason that many of us find ourselves pulling our phones out of our pockets constantly is that we need to adjust the music we are listening to or line up a new podcast. With the right set up, you can leave your phone safely in your pocket while your watch controls media playback and adjusts your volume.

4. Navigation

Many smartwatches today have built-in GPS, enabling them to act as standalone navigation assistants, even if youdon’t have a smartphone to pair them with. A persistent misconception about smartphones is that they only work if you have the corresponding smartphone with a compatible operating system. In practice, there are many smartwatches on the market that function just fine all on their own. A list of the best standalone smartwatches available in 2020 can be found on expertcog.com.

The quality of the GPS service provided by smartwatches has also improved substantially since the first generations. They can now be used just as reliably as a smartphone. However, note that the accuracy of the GPS will scale with price – you need to pay more for a more accurate GPS function.

5. Style

Aside from all of the technological benefits of owning a smartwatch, they also serve the same functions as regular watches. Not only do they tell you the time (what doesn’t these days?) but they are also stylish fashion accessories. Smartwatches can be just as fashionable as regular watches and are available in the same range of styles that regular watches are. The ability to customize smartwatches by swapping out straps and cases means that you can find the right combination to go with your look.

Smartwatches are the Swiss-army knives of the future. Smartwatches are so much more than just companions for smartphones, there is a growing market for standalone smartphones that are able to offer a full user experience without the need for a smartphone companion. The five uses outlined above are by no means the only uses that smartwatches have today.

About the author: Margot is a freelance writer who writes on fine wine, lifestyle, luxury and technology.

The INOX is one of the most popular timepieces that has ever come from Victorinox, and since its release fans and watch enthusiasts from all around have been clamoring for an automatic version of the watch.

The brand obviously listened as the Victorinox INOX Mechanical was unveiled in 2018, which is basically a version of the original INOX with an automatic movement instead of a quartz one. It features a deep blue dial, a unique strap, and quality Swiss watchmaking.

It’s large, durable, and highly functional. In this Victorinox INOX Mechanical review, we take a deep dive into the features and details of this watch. Read on to find out more.

The Exterior

In this section, we take a look at the watch’s design, dimensions, and overall look.

The first thing I noticed when I looked at the watch was the dial. The deep blue tone of the dial serves as a great base tone for the watch and also contrasts the silver-toned case and brown strap very well. The dial also has a nice texture on it that is a nice little detail that makes reading time a bit easier.

The case is silver-toned stainless steel and measures 43mm. This is definitely a large men’s watch, but it does a great job of giving off a tough and masculine feel and look. The case also has unique edges that give it some more character and blends very well with the large crown.

The case is pretty thick, measuring in at 13.5mm, but that’s just about expected from a watch of this size. Another nice detail on the watch is the exhibition case back which shows off the movement (but more on that later).

What brings the entire design together though is the strap. It has a nice brown color and an interesting texture that comes from the material used in making it.

See, instead of using common strap materials like leather or stainless steel, Victorinox chose to put a wooden strap that gives it a very retro and down-to-earth look. However, if you want a more traditional strap, that option is also available with different versions of the INOX Mechanical.

Related: Best affordable Swiss-made watches that are under $500

The Movement

Here we take a close look at the movement that’s making this watch tick.

As mentioned earlier, this watch has an exhibition case back, so the movement is very visible. That being said, there isn’t much to show off with the movement.

What keeps this watch ticking is the ETA 2824, which is just about expected from an automatic watch in this price range.

It’s a movement that’s been around for a while and has been used by many other watches around the world, so rest assured that it will keep time well. It’s the standard base Swiss-Automatic movement which is about as good as it gets in this price range.

Complications

The Victorinox INOX Mechanical has a couple of extra features that add to the watch’s functionality, and we take a look at them here.

The most obvious extra feature of this watch is probably the date window that’s placed between the four and five o’clock marker, but there are a couple more things the watch has to offer.

For one, it has a 200m of water resistance, which can easily handle a swim and even a dive, just don’t submerge it for too long.

It also has full lume. However, as is the case with a lot of Victorinox watches, the lume could have been applied better. I have to say, though, the lume was done a bit better on this watch, but it still leaves a bit to be desired.

Performance

In this section, we take a look at how well the watch works when being used.

When it comes to performance, this watch definitely brings it. For starters, the well-made movement makes sure the watch keeps ticking.

But it’s important to note that automatic movements lose a bit of time here and there, so don’t be surprised if you have to adjust the clock every now and then.

On the wrist, the watch takes a bit of getting used to it. That’s because the edges on the case can be felt on the wrist. This can be slightly annoying, but you get used to it after a couple of hours.
However, due to the design and tough materials used, this is a durable watch that will easily survive the bumps and scratches it may encounter when worn throughout the day.

Pros & Cons

Pros:
-Easy to read the time
-Durable
-Casual retro design
-High-quality movement
-Can be worn with both casual and formal outfits

Cons:
-Wearing it can be uncomfortable at first
-Lume could have been applied better

Conclusion

This watch is just about everything you’d expect from Victorinox, one of the most popular mid-range luxury brands on the market today. It’s a stylish, classy, and functional watch that can be used for a variety of occasions.

While the case takes a bit of getting used to and the lume could have been done better, the great design and well-engineered movement make up for it easily.

So if you’re on the hunt for a large watch that you can use every day without worrying about manual rewinding or battery changes, then this model might be worth checking out.

If you want to check out more awesome watches that can make you stand out from the crowd, then you can visit WickedCoolWatches.com for more great reviews and watch collections.

Let’s face it, there are just so many great watches on the market today! But which are the top watches every collector should have in their collection?

Inevitably, it will depend on why you are collecting, your lifestyle and how you intend to wear and use your watches. For me personally, for example, I would want to have a few dress watches preferably with a date, GMT and world timer functionality, plus a couple of sports-diving watches.

All the watches I have chosen below are Swiss made, automatic watches. This was not intentional – it’s just they do some fabulous watches. That said, there are some great Japanese and German made brands on the market too.

Interestingly only two of the watches below have open casebacks. I do love exhibition casebacks where I can see the movement powering the watch.

So, here is my list of the top six watches every collector should have in their Swiss made watch collection:

Rolex
Submariner date
£7,150

Every collection needs to have a Rolex – for a moment in time or a lifetime – just to know what the phenomenon is all about. Rolex watches are amazing even if they seem to be more of a trophy timepiece these days. 30 years ago, when I was a boy, this was my favourite watch and I did not know anything about Rolex (unlike today when we all know the brand).

The 40mm Rolex Submariner date with Oystersteel bracelet is by far my favourite and is a highly functional diving watch to 300 metres. It is also the original watch of James Bond with a black dial and outer rotating bezel. If you aspire to have a Rolex for the right reasons and not just hype, look no further and you will look as dapper as 007.

Little details that I love – the Rolex crown above the logo on the dial and visible on the side of the crown.

https://www.rolex.com/watches/submariner/m116610ln-0001.html

CuleM
Portal GMT
€1,499 euros

The perfect 21st century Swiss-made travel watch with date and dual time functionality. For example, CuleM’s Portal GMT comes in five variations in a 40mm stainless steel or polished black PVD.

The blue, black or silver-grey sunray dial showcases a unique and contemporary world map in three dimensions. On the back of the watch, an open caseback exhibits the self-winding movement and an engraving of 24 destinations displaying the correct world time zones – so you’ll always know what time it is, wherever you are.

Every watch comes with two elegant Italian leather straps, or a stainless steel mesh bracelet and one leather strap – all with quick change pins. If you are looking for a special watch to start your watch collecting journey, a CuleM watch is a good place to begin.

Little details that I love – the red tip of the Welsh dragon’s tail on the 24hour GMT hand.

https://www.culemwatches.com/the-portal-blue

Doxa
Sub 300T
€1,890 euros

There is a retro and industrial look to this cool tool watch with six different colour dials on a stainless steel bead of rice bracelet – this is the ultimate diving watch. Doxa has been in the Swiss watchmaking business for a long time but are now making a bigger splash than ever before.

The bold orange coloured dial with date is a classic and the new colours look great, but I would still opt for the orange. Its utilitarian appearance is strong and makes me want to go on an adventure (as I don’t dive). The Sub 300T has a 42.5mm case and is waterproof to an incredible depth of 1,200 metres. Already you can see the collection building with just two distinct and awesome watches.

Little detail that I love – the fish symbol on the crown.

https://doxawatches.com/products/sub-300-t

Louis Vuitton
Escale Time Zone 39
£5,500

This is a bit of a wild card. There is so much going on in this world timer watch with its bright colours and place names, abbreviated like airports around the world to three letters, showing the time simultaneously in 24 destinations. Louis Vuitton is synonymous with fine luggage and high-end fashion, but they also make great looking watches that stand the rigor of time.

This watch has a round 39mm stainless case and comes with a grey alligator strap. Being Welsh and Australian, my only criticism is that the world time is classical and therefore wrong in Sydney. If you want a bold looking watch for your collection, look no further than this statement piece.

Little details that I love – the brightly coloured areas on the dial are reminiscent of maritime flags.

https://uk.louisvuitton.com/eng-gb/products/escale-time-zone-39-010461

Cartier
Santos De Cartier
£6,100 large

Like anything Cartier, this timepiece is more like an exquisite piece of jewellery than a watch. The crisp white dial with date is housed in a 39mm square shaped stainless case with exposed screw designs that continue onto the stunning metal bracelet.

The bracelet is interchangeable and comes with a second calfskin strap. The purpose of the leather strap is to give a more casual look to this classic watch. And casual it is not, in my opinion. This is an elegant watch that is simply dressed up all the time.

Little details that I love – the three blue steel, sword-shaped hands.

https://www.cartier.co.uk/en-gb/collections/watches/mens-watches/santos-de-cartier/santos-de-cartier/wssa0009-santos-de-cartier-watch.html

Patek Philippe
World Time 5230G-014
£37,160

At the top and most refined end of watchmaking, there is no watch more perfect (almost anyway) and horologically fascinating than the Patek World Time 5230G with a grey hand guilloched dial in the centre, surrounded by the time in 24 destinations around the world displayed simultaneously. Louis Cottier invented this fine mechanism in the 1930s, which was an incredible achievement in watchmaking, eliminating the need to calculate time differences.

However, times have changed, and as I mentioned earlier, the time in Sydney is wrong. This is not the fault of Cottier and I am sure he would like to have this corrected on the dial showing Sydney at GMT+11. This watch has a 38mm 18ct white gold case and comes with a black alligator strap. On the back of the watch, the fine 240HU is perfectly displayed and finished beautifully. This is a superb watch and you may also want to consider an earlier model like the stunning 5130P on the secondary market.

Little details that I love – the grey guilloche dial in the centre on 5230G-014, yet I prefer the blue sunburst guilloche dial on the 5130P.

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/complications/5230G-014

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

CuleM Watches is an independent watchmaker founded by watch collector and traveller Matthew Cule. CuleM ‘s World GMT collection of Swiss made dual time automatic watches celebrates the beauty of our amazing world and are designed for people who love to travel and collectors of exquisite timepieces.

CuleM believes there is no experience more meaningful and amazing than travel – and no object more beautiful and meaningful than a watch, so each watch is a time capsule of memories of the places you have been and an inspiration for the destinations you wish to discover. Available from Goldsmiths and luxury retailers.

Contact details

Web: www.CuleMwatches.com
Instagram: @CuleMwatches
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/culemwatchesgmt/
Twitter: @CuleMwatches
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/company/CuleMwatches/

Ever since the 1800s, the Swiss watch industry has dominated, and today Swiss watches are synonymous with luxury and prestige. But can the Swiss watchmaking industry survive?

Artificial intelligence (AI) can help the luxury watch industry remain relevant.

The power of artificial intelligence (AI) to drive intelligent marketing has begun to evolve the watch industry as we know it. Emotional Analytics (EMO), a start-up based in Singapore for instance, uses artificial intelligence to group data from billions of social content updates into topics of interest by mapping out the emotional engagement with each topic.

This insight can help ensure data-driven growth for industry players. For example, EMO recently studied new watch brands with a price point below $500. This revealed some very interesting insights that watch brands can capitalise on to ensure they are creating watches that people really want. For example; people have a strong preference for Swiss automatic watches, like diving, pilot, and dress watches; they prefer 42mm watches or small 38mm watches and have a neutral opinion about 40mm watches; nato and rubber straps are the most popular; and the most popular colours are blue and black. This kind of insight can help reduce the risks when launching a new watch, and enables a brand to combine innovation with design aspects that consumers want.

Baselworld has long been the most important event of the industry’s calendar, and while I enjoyed its palpable and passionate energy in March, many independent watch brands are choosing to forego the show altogether in favour of investing in contemporary online marketing channels. Exhibitions need to embrace the future and new technology if they are to remain relevant and attract the visitors that will make the cost of exhibiting worthwhile. Baselworld unfortunately is not the only industry player which can offer behind-the-scenes access to new watch innovations and releases. Social media influencers, for instance, can target millions of people in a way that can be tracked and analyzed for impressions, engagement, and efficiency. Therefore, Baselworld must now reconcile its iconic existence connecting passionate collectors and watchmakers with novel forms of marketing and technology.

For instance, Baselworld might consider live streaming more of its sessions, or enabling exhibiting watch brands to host sponsored webinars for global audiences. More and more conferences are selling to an online audience as well as the offline visitors. Issues of time, the impact of travel on the environment, and the cost of visiting are all eroding visitor numbers, but an event can still be a huge success if it embraces the online world; opening up to virtual visitors from across the globe. Leveraging AI and new innovations in communications technology, Baselworld can ensure its offline event generates a wealth of digital data. In so doing, Baselworld may be able to offer independent brands actionable insights from one of the most valuable microcosms of the watch industry.

Technology has transformed what collectors want from a watch, or has it?

The release of the Apple watch, and the many other designs that have followed suit, has revolutionized watchmaking for the first time in centuries. With ever-increasing demands on our schedules, millions of consumers are investing in the convenience of having a mini-computer strapped to their wrist. Why would you wear a watch that can only tell the time when a smartwatch can answer your calls, text your friends and track your fitness goals?

And yet for traditional and new watch collecting aficionados, a smart watch is the equivalent of a factory van to an exotic car collector – it misses the point entirely. Even watches that integrate traditional craftsmanship with the functionality of digital technology will fail to capture the attention of true collectors. The love affair with Swiss-made mechanical watches is one that can be passed on from generation to generation, with quality that will last a lifetime.

And thus, classical watchmakers have an opportunity to capitalize on and appeal to an emerging market of watch collectors: a generation that grew up with technology and rejects its omnipresence. As the popularity of mindfulness activities such as yoga and meditation peak, so too do the low-tech, slow tech, neo-luddite and tech-free movements. A growing swathe of people reject wearables that ‘ping’ us away from the present moment. Time is a treasure, and while a watch can keep time, it shouldn’t control it.

Although collectors may stick to Swiss-made classical models, consumers have come to expect a curated, technology-driven discovery and buying experience. For example, a magazine advert can now include augmented reality (AR) links, which mean if you put your phone over a photo, an immersive video about the watch can begin to play. At CuleM, we have developed an app called Try OnCuleM, so that users can try on all the watches in our first World GMT Collection from their desk or dining room table. By utilising new technologies watchmakers can reach new, wider audiences, and can help consumers ‘try on’ a watch – even if they are nowhere near a retail outlet. This can lead to increased sales and help a traditional brand reach a tech-savvy audience.

Luxury watch brands committed to innovation will drive future demand.

Season after season, classical watchmakers release a new edition of a vintage watch – “best-selling vintage watches reimagined.” However, mature brands can no longer afford to play it safe as independent watchmakers like Akrivia and Singer Reimagined challenge the likes of Rolex and Omega.

While the Swiss watchmaking industry is full of staggeringly creative and talented people, they often work for organisations driven by the bottom line and relying on their reputation and heritage – not their innovation. I believe that an overreliance on profits translates into lost creativity and a tired routine of re-releasing best-selling models.

Unlike the technology industry, where Google for example encourages its employees to focus 20% of their time on side projects, traditional Swiss watch brands lack novel curiosity and innovation. For watchmaking talent, even a few hours a week focused on creativity and lateral thinking can lead to the uncovering of new and innovative designs that can transform a brand, and its earnings.

Watch brands that seize the opportunity to make the ideas of the past relevant in the 21st century are more likely to cement their place in the industry and its future. For instance, I worked with veteran designer Damien Ummel to challenge and evolve the design standards of a standard GMT travel watch. CuleM’s inaugural GMT World Timers solve the historical inaccuracy of travel watches for the first time, and display the correct time in 24 time zones – an essential feature for the globetrotters of our generation. By looking to the future, rather than to the past, the watch industry has an opportunity both to remain relevant and to reach new consumers. By constantly looking backwards at design, it will fail to achieve either.

Luxury watch collecting is now an investment within reach.

Luxury watches combine high-end Swiss craftsmanship and timeless design into a desirable object that will stay with collectors for decades to come.

These timepieces have an implied cost, however. Although price points for Swiss-made automatic watches can exceed 100,000 euros, watch collecting is no longer an investment beyond reach. Advancements in manufacturing and factory-direct retail business models have opened up luxury watch collecting to new markets.

These business model innovations are not about cutting costs or quality – it’s about finding new, innovative ways to sell direct to the customer, eliminating traditional retail outlets with large mark-ups, and delivering the savings to the customer.

For example, at Culem we looked at how to cut out the retailer and sell direct from the factory and thus launched on Kickstarter. We did this because we wanted to ensure that everyone, not just those with six-figure salaries, had access to the ultimate Swiss-made luxury GMT World Timer, and so we could build a global community of watch collectors and world travelers.

By looking at innovative ways to connect with customers, and reduce costs without compromising on design and quality, there is an opportunity for start-up brands to create another tier in the watch collector market, attracting new buyers with a slightly lower price-point.

Ultra-high-end watches, like Vacheron Constantin or Laurent Ferrier, will always have their place, but micro-brands in the 2,000 to 5,000 euro retail price point will be fierce competitors as consumers seek value, relevance, and a contrast to the status quo.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Matthew Cule is a passionate collector of watches and founder of CuleM Watches, an independent luxury travel watch brand. Culem’s World GMT collection of Swiss made dual time ,automatic watches are designed for people who love to travel. Culem believes there is nothing more meaningful and amazing than travel – and no object more special than a watch, so each watch is a masterpiece, a work of art and the perfect travel companion.

Web: www.culemwatches.com
Instagram: @culemwatches
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Culem-Watches-509036822900736/
Twitter: @culemwatches
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/company/culemwatches/
Kickstarter: http://30e.fnd.to/culemwatches