The new Czapek & Cie Place Vendôme Complicité watch is a unique reinterpretation of a double escapement combination initially created in 1930 and very rare in wristwatches. Two independent oscillators beat at their own pace, with any rate variations balanced by a differential at 12 o’clock, all beautifully laid out on the dial side.
The idea for the Place Vendôme Complicité watch was born in 2018 as an evolution of Czapek’s renowned initial models, Quai des Bergues and Place Vendôme. The movement architecture of those pieces translates into a distinctive Czapek ‘face’ with sub-dials at the 7.30 and 4.30 positions on the dial.
The starting point for Complicité was to respect the dial layout of the original Place Vendôme model – on which the two signature sub-dials form the base of a pyramid, completed by a third sub-dial at the apex. An initial sketch was then designed: the escapements would be at 7.30 and 4.30 and the differential that connects them would be at the 12.00 position, with both escapement trains embracing the centre.
The brand has then partnered with acclaimed independent watchmaker Bernhard Lederer to make the double escapement movement for this watch.
The principle of the double escapement regulator is that, with two balance wheels beating independently, and power delivered from a single barrel via a differential, any variation in rate will be cancelled out, thus ensuring greater timekeeping accuracy.
The manually wound in-house Calibre 8 with double escapement provides a power reserve of 72 hours, which is indicated on the dial at 6 o’clock between the balance wheels. Two sapphire bridges reveal the entire gear train on the dial side, protected by a box-style sapphire crystal glass.
Dominated by distinctive, triangular bridges from which the balances are suspended, the aesthetic blends modernity with tradition, playing with the colours of different metals of various components while drawing the eye deep into the workings of the movement.
Naturally, haute horlogerie finishes abound, with traditional handcrafts complemented by more contemporary decorative finishes – not only on the dial side but also on the back of the movement, where 18 inward angles have been hand-bevelled.
The crown wheel mechanism – a hidden signature of Bernhard Lederer – is integrated into the movement design as a subtle tribute to his contribution to the development of Complicité.
Two dial colours are offered: cool grey tone with a white gold case for the Place Vendôme Complicité Stardust and deep sapphire blue in a rose gold case for the Place Vendôme Complicité Harmony Blue. The satin-brushing of the flange and index ring contrasts with the matte grainé surface of the baseplate.
Adding contemporary style, the hands are sword-shaped and open-worked, so as not to obstruct the view of the mechanism, and their shape is echoed by the applied hour markers. All are plated in gold to match the case material and tipped with luminescent coating to enhance legibility in low light conditions.
In true Czapek style, some almost-hidden details have been added purely for aesthetic effect; for example, looking deep into the movement reveals that the post on which the hands are mounted has been open-worked to create a tiny ‘arcade des heures’ (arcade of the hours).
Inspired by the cases of Quai des Bergues and Place Vendôme, the case is relatively compact and very wearable. Measuring 41.8mm diameter, it is a distillation of Czapek’s signature iconography, with sharper lines adding contemporary flair.
The watch stands out with a dynamic tension between the flowing curves of the case sides and the crisp angles of the deep recesses on the sides of the lugs, the play of light and shadow amplified by a mix of brushed and polished surfaces.
Completing the ensemble, an alligator strap that matches or closely complements the colour of each dial is fastened with a gold folding clasp.
The first two models of the Place Vendôme Complicité will be offered in limited editions of 50 pieces per iteration.
Technical details
Movement
Hand-wound movement created in collaboration with Bernhard Lederer
Number of parts: 293
Six rubies set in gold chatons
Functions
Hours, Minutes, Seconds & Power reserve indicator
Open-work double-escapement with differential gearing at 12 o’clock
Finish
Hand-beveling on bridges and main plate
18 inward angles hand-chamfered
Model: Czapek & Cie Place Vendôme Complicité Harmony Blue
Case
18K 5N Rose gold case with domed sapphire and sandblasted hollowed-out lugs
Crown protectors
Diameter: 41.8 mm
Lug to lug: 48.22 mm
Height with lugs: 14.8 mm
Height on wrist: 13.3 mm
Perceived height (without glass): 8.8 mm
Sapphire glass with double anti-reflective treatment
Water-resistance: 50m (5 atm)
Dial
Open-worked with double escapement on a ’Grainé’main plate with blue galvanic treatment
Circular-grained minutes and hours track
Partially skeletonized sword hands
Faceted mirror-polished indexes in 5N rose gold
Bracelet
Alligator strap with 18K 5N rose gold folding buckle
Edition
Limited edition of 50 pieces
Suggested retail price
CHF 85’000/ $100’000/€89’000/£77’300
Model: Czapek & Cie Place Vendôme Complicité Stardust
Case
18K white gold case with domed sapphire and sandblasted hollowed-out lugs
Crown protectors
Diameter: 41.8 mm
Lug to lug: 48.22 mm
Height with lugs: 14.8 mm
Height on wrist: 13.3 mm
Perceived height (without glass): 8.8 mm
Sapphire glass with double anti-reflective treatment
Water-resistance: 50m (5 atm)
Dial
Open-worked with double escapement on a ’Grainé’main plate with silver galvanic treatment
Circular-grained minutes and hours track
Partially skeletonized sword hands
Faceted mirror-polished indexes in white gold
Bracelet
Alligator strap with 18K white gold folding buckle
Edition
Limited edition of 50 pieces
Suggested retail price
CHF 85’000/ $100’000/ €89’000/ £77’300
