With the new Pelagos FXD Reference 25717N, Swiss luxury watch brand TUDOR pays tribute to its iconic Milsub timepieces created for US Navy divers.
This 42mm diving watch in titanium features a high-performance Manufacture Calibre, unidirectional bezel with ceramic-insert, black dial and fixed strap bars.
The TUDOR Pelagos FXD Reference 25717N is a modern, high-performance and robust take on the famed “Milsub” (short for Military Submariner) of yesteryear.
Inspired by the aesthetic style of a late ‘60s-era TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7016, this new model incorporates elements from the US military specifications for diving watches, such as fixed spring bars, as well as details inspired by other generations of issued TUDORs, like pointed crown-guards typically found on early TUDOR Submariners.
History of TUDOR Diving Watches Made for the US Navy
The US Navy issued TUDOR diving watches for decades starting in the latter years of the 50s. The watches were famously used by SEAL teams from their commissioning in 1962 all the way the late 80s.
These robust instruments have also served sailors in all types of underwater roles, including UDTs, Seabees and Navy dive school instructors.
The issued TUDOR Submariners have played a role in teaching the basics of scuba diving at the Underwater Swimmers School, all the way to aiding in underwater submarine maintenance at submarine bases in the US and abroad. Issued TUDOR watches also played a role in pioneering innovative underwater technologies under the surface of oceans across the globe.
Throughout the decades, TUDOR has supported the US Navy as a supplier of issued watches.
In the 1965 “First Edition” of the Underwater Demolition Team Handbook, a TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7928 is pictured next to the “Diving Watch” paragraph. The handbook was an essential piece of literature for new operators as they studied UDT operational procedures.
Later, in 1973, the US Navy Diving manual lists the TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner references 7016 and 7021 as “Navy-approved” diving watches. In 1974, the National Stock Number system was introduced to track the supply system of the US Department of Defense.
From 1978, under code 6645-01-068-1088, a supply officer could purchase and issue a TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner reference 9411, or later 76100, to an approved sailor or operator in need of a reliable Navy-approved dive watch. This specific supply catalog entry was only retired in 2004.
Watches issued to members of the military are typically engraved with specific inventory codes, but the US Navy-issued TUDOR watches didn’t follow this pattern. There was never a force-wide, consolidated marking system.
Instead, the issued watches were either sterile, or marked at the unit level, with many different coding typologies, most of which were used for inventory purposes. Since many of these watches issued by the US Navy remain unmarked, it makes it quite difficult for watch scholars of today to determine the military provenance of a given TUDOR, even though official records indicate that very large quantities, in a number of references, were delivered over a span of multiple decades.
TUDOR Pelagos FXD Reference 25717N
Initially developed in conjunction with active duty combat swimmers, the Pelagos FXD case is based on a set of specifications that are as precise as they are demanding. For this reason, it includes some functional features that are unique in the TUDOR collection, such as its fixed strap bars, which are directly machined into the main body of the 42mm titanium case for increased robustness and reliability.
In aesthetic terms, this Pelagos FXD model takes inspiration the TUDOR divers’ watches historically used by US Navy personnel in the late 60’s through early 80’s.
Its Matt black dial features applied hour markers filled with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material.
The characteristic square hour markers and angular hands, known as “Snowflake” were introduced by the brand in 1969 to increase the intensity of the luminescence of its watches in poor light conditions.
Waterproof to 200 meters, TUDOR Pelagos FXD Reference 25717N also features a ergonomic 60-notch unidirectional rotating bezel with a sand-blasted ceramic insert with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material.
Machined from a single block of titanium, its 42mm titanium case is entirely satin-brushed to produce a matt effect to limit light reflections.
TUDOR Calibre MT5602
Driving the hours, minutes and seconds functions, the self-winding Calibre MT5602 has the finish typical of TUDOR in-house movements: its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, while its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations. It also offers a power reserve of 70 hours.
Equipped with variable inertia balance and non-magnetic silicon hairspring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5602 is certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
Historically, the US Navy oftentimes had their divers fit their TUDOR watches with fabric straps, typically one-piece ones in black or green made out of nylon.
As a nod to this military custom, the Pelagos FXD model comes with a highly technical strap developed by TUDOR and Julien Faure Company in the St-Etienne region.
Made up of a 22mm forest green nylon woven ribbon with a red central thread, a titanium “D” buckle and a self-gripping fastening system, it adapts to different wrist sizes and is very comfortable to wear.
In addition to the one-piece green fabric strap with red central thread, the brand is offering a supplementary black embossed fabric-motif one-piece rubber strap.
Model: TUDOR Pelagos FXD Reference 25717N
Titanium case, 42mm in diameter, 12.75mm thick, 52mm from lug to lug, satin-brushed finish fixed strap bars, steel case back
Unidirectional rotating bezel in titanium with ceramic disc, 60-minute graduation
Titanium crown, adorned with the TUDOR shield in relief
Waterproof to 200m (660 ft)
Manufacture Calibre MT5602
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Total diameter: 31.8mm
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: Approximately 70 hours
Precision: Swiss chronometer officially certified by COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
Matt black dial with applied hour markers filled with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material
22mm fabric strap with self-gripping fastening system, forest green with red central thread, additional black rubber strap with woven motif and titanium pin buckle, included in the box