Montblanc introduces the Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva, a bezel-activated mechanical chronograph to celebrate 165 years of Minerva watchmaking as well as the 100th anniversary of its first wristwatch chronograph movement.
Thanks to a new mechanical function, the Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva chronograph is activated via its elegant 18K gold fluted bezel, a feature that defines all new timepieces crafted at the manufacture in Villeret.
Just one click of the bezel will start the chronograph, a second click will stop it, and a third click will reset it, transforming the way a chronograph has traditionally been activated. This hidden feature respects the beauty of the historic calibre, while incorporating modern-day know-how to create a contemporary timepiece.
This year marks the 165th anniversary of the founding of the Minerva Manufacture, as well as the 100th anniversary of its first wristwatch chronograph movement, the Calibre 13.20.
This historic calibre from 1923 was reworked in 2003 with new materials and finishings to make it more contemporary, although the original construction remained the same, with just the reference changing to Calibre 13.21.
This year, an intriguing new chronograph function is being added to the Calibre 13.21 in celebration of these milestones, attesting to Minerva’s history in the production of professional timekeepers.
In 1927, Minerva was among the first manufactures to make a fluted bezel as well as an internal countdown rotating bezel. This was followed in 1939 by its first wristwatch chronograph with an external rotating bezel and a reset function.
In 2022, the Maison unveiled the 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow LE88 inspired by these rare external rotating bezel models. The key elements from the past included a fluted bezel, now in white gold, and Minerva’s recognizable red arrow that allowed a quick and easy reading of elapsed time.
The Montblanc Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva
The new Montblanc Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva takes the fluted bezel from the 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow and turns it into a chronograph function, marking the first time in Montblanc’s watchmaking repertoire it has been possible to activate a chronograph without having to push on something.
The chronograph function is operated through the unidirectional rotating bezel (turning clockwise), avoiding any mishandling.
One click will start the chronograph, the second will stop it, and the third will reset it. The bezel has 30 jumps/steps per whole turn, meaning that it can time 10 separate events in one complete turn. Montblanc is one of the rare watchmaking company to have developed such a system and has filed several patent applications for it.
The Montblanc Unveiled Timekeeper is presently available in two limited editions. The first comes in a stainless steel case with an 18K white gold bezel, blue dial, and red accents. This model is limited to 100 pieces in reference to the 100-year anniversary of the Calibre 13.20.
The second limited edition is housed in a Lime Gold case, features a dark green dial, and comes in a more exclusive limited edition.
Both timepieces come in a 42mm size with a dial design that is inspired by Minerva chronographs from between the 1940s and 1960s with their sunray finishing; luminescent hands, numerals, and indexes; elegant sub-dials; tachymetre scales (with a base of 1000m, 400m, and 200m); and colored accents for easy reading.
Each model comes with a matching-colored interchangeable alligator leather strap.
Calibre MB M13.21
The Calibre MB M13.21 is the latest version of the historical Calibre 13.20 movement that celebrates its 100th anniversary this year. The Calibre MB M13.21 is a hand-finished, manually wound movement with a 60-hour power reserve.
The chronograph seconds are indicated with a contrasting colored chronograph seconds hand with the Minerva arrow as the counterweight, while a 30-minute chronograph counter is positioned at three o’clock, and a small seconds’ indication balances the dial at nine o’clock.
History of Villeret watchmaking tradition
Montblanc’s Villeret watchmaking tradition began in 1858 when Charles-Yvan Robert founded a watch workshop in the Saint-Imier valley. As early as the 1880s, the Minerva Manufacture in Villeret had already gained international recognition for its precise timekeepers.
In 1909, Minerva started to develop chronographs, quickly becoming a leading specialist in the fabrication of professional watches and stopwatches, and in 1923 – exactly a century ago – it unveiled its first manually wound monopusher chronograph dedicated to wristwatches.
Fast-forward 100 years, Montblanc is now unveiling a chronograph function that shows how Montblanc is continuing the Minerva legacy, transforming it from the past to the present through design, style, and technical expertise.
In addition to providing a spectacular view of the movement, the exhibition case-back of Montblanc Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva Chronograph tells the complete story of Minerva, starting with the name of the collection and the date of birth of the Minerva Manufacture at six o’clock.
On an inner ring, key dates from the Minerva chronograph story are separated by little stars from the original Minerva logo, with the Minerva arrow at 12 o’clock.
These key dates include:
- 1887 – Minerva brand and arrow symbol registered on July 30th, 1887.
- 1908 – Development of the first Manufacture chronograph movement (19/9CH) for pocket watches.
- 1912 – The Minerva V-shaped chronograph bridge is patented on April 10th.
- 1920 – Development of the Manufacture chronograph Calibre 13.20 for wristwatches.
- 1927 – Production of Minerva’s first fluted bezel and internal countdown rotating bezel.
- 1929 – Development of the Manufacture chronograph Calibre 17.29 (evolution of the Calibre 19/9CH)
- 1948 – Development of the Pythagore Manufacture Calibre 48 using the Golden Section ( = 1.618…).
- 2003 – Development of the Manufacture chronograph Calibres MB M13.21 and MB M16.29, respectively, inspired by the historical Calibres 13.20 and 17.29.
- 2023 – Launch of the chronograph function through the bezel.
Through the caseback, 165 years of watchmaking novelties are documented, right up to the present day with the introduction of Montblanc Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva Limited Editions.
Technical details
Movement
Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB M13.21
Manufacture hand-finished manually wound movement
Monopusher chronograph with column wheel and horizontal coupling
Diameter: 28.80mm
Height: 6.4mm
Number of components: 239
Number of rubies: 22 jewels
Power Reserve: Approx. 60 hours
Balance with screws, diameter: 11.4mm
Frequency: 18 000 A/h (2,5Hz)
Hairspring: With Philips curve
Bridges: Rhodium-plated German silver with “Côtes de Genève”, circular graining on both sides, hand-chamfered edges
Going-train: Gold-plated, circular grained, chamfered, diamond hubs on both sides
Displays
Hour and minute from the center, small seconds at 9 o’clock
Chronograph with central seconds hand and 30-minute counter
Habillage
Model: Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva Limited Edition in Steel, Ident: 130987
Case
Stainless steel with satinated and polished finishing
Diameter: 42.5mm
Height: 13.85mm
Bezel: 18K white gold unidirectional fluted bezel, satinated and polished
Crystal: Scratch-resistant, domed shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Back: Stainless steel caseback with special engraving paying tribute to Minerva legacy
Water resistance: Approx. 3 bar (30 m)
Crown: Fluted in stainless steel with Montblanc emblem in relief
Dial
Blue dial with white luminescent rhodium-coated Arabic numerals and indexes, tachymeter and telemeter scales
White luminescent rhodium-coated hour and minute hands
Rhodium-coated seconds hand
Rhodium-coated chronograph minute hand with red tip
Red chronograph seconds hand
Wristband
Blue interchangeable alligator leather strap with stainless steel triple-folding clasp
Edition
Limited edition of 100 pieces
Model: Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva Limited Edition Lime Gold, Ident: 130988
Case
18K Lime Gold with satinated and polished finishing
Diameter: 42.5mm
Height: 13.85mm
Bezel: 18K Lime Gold unidirectional fluted bezel, satinated and polished
Crystal: Scratch-resistant, domed box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Back: 18K Lime Gold case back with special engraving paying tribute to Minerva legacy
Water Resistance: Approx. 3 bar (30 m)
Crown: Fluted in 18K Lime Gold with Montblanc emblem in relief
Dial
Dark green dial with beige luminescent gold-coated Arabic numerals and indexes, tachymeter and telemeter scales
Beige luminescent green-coated hour and minute hands
Green-coated seconds hand
Gold-coated chronograph minute hand with green tip
Green chronograph seconds hand
Wristband
Green interchangeable alligator leather strap with 18K Lime Gold pin buckle
Edition
Limited edition of 28 pieces