To support the 10th edition of Only Watch charity auction RESERVOIR has collaborated with the renowned movement manufacturer TÉLÔS WATCH from La Chaux-de-Fonds to create a unique timepiece. The RESERVOIR x TELOS WATCH Only Watch 2023 Edition Tiefenmesser Tourbillon fuses the emblematic 240° retrograde minute and jumping hour displays with high-watchmaking savoir-faire.
RESERVOIR is known for its expertise in displaying retrograde hours, minutes, and power reserves. Now the brand presents its first in-house movement to be regulated by a tourbillon, developed in partnership with TÉLÔS WATCH.
The Tiefenmesser Tourbillon Only Watch features a bronze case inspired by the ships and submarines from the previous century. The display is pure RESERVOIR, bringing to mind the manometers and gauges on board submarines, including the depth gauge from which the watch takes its name. A regulator-type enamel dial indicates retrograde minutes on a 240° arc, the brand’s style signature. The jumping hours are, typically, displayed in a large window in the remaining 120 degrees of space freed up by this arrangement.
The Tiefenmesser Tourbillon Only Watch stands out with an imposing, untrammelled and graceful layout for the tourbillon, located at 6 o’clock. With a rate of 4Hz and powered by a double barrel, it has an ample power reserve of 60 hours.
Fitted with a fixed balance-spring support, balancing is achieved in a traditional manner, with the inertia adjusted by flyweights screwed directly onto the balance wheel. The diameter of the expansive tourbillon is in fact that of its escapement wheel. It completes one revolution every 60 seconds. Rather than being fitted with a hand, the tourbillon features a large upper bridge in the shape of the RESERVOIR logo.
For the hours and minutes dial, RESERVOIR has opted for an enamel rather than lacquered dial, giving it a very vintage sheen and refined elegance – and making it remarkably easy to read. To further highlight the prestige of the tourbillon and ensure the plate offsets it in suitably imposing fashion, the latter is anthracite grey and bead-blasted before an NAC finish is applied.
The movement with bead-blasted anthracite finishing can be admired through the transparent, non-reflective sapphire crystal.
Made exclusively for the Tiefenmesser Tourbillon Only Watch, the oscillating weight in tungsten has a bronze-colored surface. It has then been specially engraved with ‘Chadburns’, the markings to be found on the controls of historic submarines: two sectors (ahead and astern) between which sits the ‘stop’ position, with the five engine speeds corresponding to each setting marked accordingly.
TÉLÔS WATCH SA is a high-end movement manufacturer established in 2009 by watchmakers Franck Orny and Johnny Girardin.
Model: RESERVOIR x TELOS WATCH Only Watch 2023 Edition Tiefenmesser Tourbillon
43mm bronze case
Screw-down crown, water resistant to 3 ATM
360° open case back, stainless steel
Non-reflective sapphire crystal
White enamel “Grand Feu” dial
Retrograde minutes and jumping hours, regulator style
Double barrel mechanical movement, automatic winding, 437 components, 46 jewels
Grand Tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Variable-inertia balance wheel with fixed balance-spring stud
Power reserve: 60 hours
Frequency: 4Hz (28,800vph)
Blue alligator leather strap, width: 22mm
Stainless steel and bronze butterfly deployment clasp
Luxury wooden display case
Unique piece for Only Watch 2023