Limited to 50 pieces, the new POWER RESERVE Salmon watch from the Moritz Grossmann BENU Heritage line has a salmon-colored dial and a sleek stainless steel case that adds to the sporty yet distinctively elegant character of the watch.
Ten years ago, Moritz Grossmann added a linear power reserve indicator to the Benu model line. The new limited edition BENU POWER RESERVE with a Salmon dial is a reinterpretation this model.
The combination of haute horlogerie and fine aesthetics is based on the versatile skills of Moritz Grossmann. In the manufactory, which continues the legacy of one of the most eminent watchmakers from Glashütte’s history in a contemporary way, not only elaborately decorated movements are created, but also parts of the decor. For example, the delicately tapered hands in the rhombus shape typical of BENU are made by hand and tempered in blue.
In the new BENU POWER RESERVE Salmon limited edition of 50 pieces, the dial is in the color salmon – a harmonious blend of pink and orange, which has a modern and delicate freshness.
The salmon color dial is combined with printed Arabic numerals in the color blue, designed in a clear typography. A discreet frame is provided by the dark gray minute track.
The linear power reserve indicator in the upper half of the dial is formed as a bar-shaped display element and refers to the movement’s power reserve in white and blue. This is made possible by a differential gear. When the movement is fully wound, the display appears completely white; when the power reserve decreases, the colored, blue portion of the bar increasingly appears.
Inside this watch beats a traditional mechanical hand-wound movement: the calibre movement 100.2, whose fine finishing is revealed through the glass back. The calibre 100.2 is an extension of the calibre 100.1 and is constructed as a classic pillar movement with a 2/3 plate.
This bears the characteristic Glashütte stripe finish and reveals the shock-resistant Grossmann balance, which is held by the hand-engraved balance cock. Also typical of Moritz Grossmann’s modern calibres are white sapphires as jewels, set in gold chatons and held by brown-violet screws.
The movement features a sophisticated hand setting mechanism, which is regulated by an additional pusher below the crown. This construction prevents foreign particles from entering the case when pulling the crown to adjust the time. It also avoids unintentional adjustment of the hands by pushing the crown back.
This is made possible by a mechanism invented by Moritz Grossmann, which changes the function of the crown by a short pull to set the hands and at the same time stops the movement. After setting the hands, the crown does not have to be pushed back. Indeed, the movement is restarted via the pusher below the crown and the crown is thus reset to the winding function.
The new BENU POWER RESERVE Salmon is limited to 50 pieces and has a slim, three-piece stainless steel case with a filigree bezel.
The watch comes with a hand-stitched navy blue alligator leather strap.
Technical details
Model: Moritz Grossmann BENU POWER RESERVE Salmon
Movement
Manufactory calibre 100.2, manual winding, regulated in five positions
Diameter: 36.4 mm
Height: 5.4 mm
No. of parts: 227
Jewels: 26 jewels, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Shock-absorbed Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve, Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
Balance diameter: 14.2 mm
Frequency: 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve: 42 hours when fully wound
Functions
Hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop second, Grossmann manual winder with pusher, power-reserve indicator
Operating elements
Crowns in stainless steel to wind the watch and set the time, pusher in stainless steel to start the watch
Case
Three-part, stainless steel
Diameter: 41.0 mm
Height: 11.65 mm
Crystal/display back Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Dial
Solid silver, salmon with blue Arabic numerals
Hands: Manually crafted, steel, annealed in blue
Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with solid prong buckle in stainless steel
Special features
Grossmann balance; hand setting override and start of movement with lateral pusher; bar-shaped power-reserve indicator with two-coloured display segment driven by a differential wheel train; space-saving modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash; adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock; pillar movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver; 2/3 plate, balance cock and escape-wheel cock hand-engraved; broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing; 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; separately removable clutch winder; stop seconds for hand setting