TUDOR BLACK BAY 54, the latest member of the Black Bay line, recalls the iconic Oyster Prince Submariner Reference 7922 of 1954 with a 37mm case and a Manufacture Calibre.
While the Black Bay line references a range of TUDOR’s early diving watches, the all-new Black Bay 54 evokes the Swiss brand’s first dive watch, the reference 7922.
The 37mm case in stainless steel retains the classic proportions of the past, yet boasts the technical prowess of the state-of-the-art Manufacture Calibre MT5400 and a 200m depth rating.
The Black Bay line has always incorporated signature elements of past TUDOR dive watches. The new Black Bay 54 takes inspiration from the Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7922 is a formidable candidate to draw inspiration from. This historic dive watch was known to have been evaluated and consequently adopted by the French and US Navies and widely used by diving professionals.
The earliest iterations of the 7922 used a “small crown” and eschewed the later emblematic red triangle at 12 o’clock for a cleaner, more uniform aesthetic. The Black Bay 54 follows this tradition.
In fact, the Black Bay 54 recalls a number of small design details that make a big difference. Take the hands for instance, in addition to proportional adjustments, they’re pinched at the base, the same way they appeared in 1954.
The bezel edge has been redesigned as well, with a modernized take on the ergonomic pattern of the 7922. Of course, the Black Bay 54 still features thoroughly modern touches, like a subtle satin radial-brushed dial and a “T-fit” clasp for the perfect fit.
The Manufacture Calibre MT5400 displays hour, minute and second functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres: Its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations.
To ensure robustness and precision, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point anchoring. This system, together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, enables the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 to function within a tolerance range of 6 seconds (-2/+4) tested on a fully assembled watch. The TUDOR MT5400 Manufacture Calibre has a 70-hour power reserve.
This timepiece features a subtly domed satin radial-brushed black dial with gilt accents. The iconic “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, are enhanced with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova.
The Black Bay 54 is fitted with an entirely satin-brushed 3-link steel bracelet, complete with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp equipped with a system for rapid length adjustment.
Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical system allows wearers to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8mm.
The clasp features ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure in addition to adding a pleasing tactile element to the action of the clasp.
A black rubber strap option is also available for the Black Bay 54. The strap comes in three sizes complete with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp, and for the perfect fit, it is able to be cut down to the exact size of the wearer’s wrist.
Inside it features the signature snowflake motif for added grip, and it is form-fitted specifically for the Black Bay 54.
Technical details
Model: TUDOR BLACK BAY 54 Reference 79000N
Versions
79000N-0001: With stainless steel bracelet
79000N-0001: With black rubber strap
Case
37mm stainless steel case with polished and satin finish
60-minute unidirectional bezel in stainless steel with aluminium insert devoid of minute graduations
Stainless steel screw-down crown with the TUDOR rose in relief
Domed sapphire crystal
Waterproof to 200m (660 ft)
Movement
Manufacture Calibre MT5400 (COSC)
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Swiss Chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
Total diameter: 30.3mm
Thickness: 5mm
27 jewels
Power reserve of approximately 70 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes and seconds hands at the centre
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
Dial
Black, domed
Bracelet
Three-link stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin finish, or rubber strap, both with TUDOR “T-fit” clasp