In collaboration with Grail Watch, Franck Muller revives three of its iconic chronographs. The first two are bi-compax chronographs powered by new old-stock Lemania movements. The third one is a double sided rattrapante.
Offering the most ambitious limited edition timepieces, Grail Watch was established by Wei Koh, founder of The Rake and Revolution Magazines. This new venture unveiled its first chapter earlier this year named “Dream Collaborations,” with Grail Watch 1, a collaboration between Ressence and Alain Silberstein. Chapter 2 of Grail Watch is the “Revival of Past Icons.”
Franck Muller, which is celebrating the 30th anniversary this year, has recently recreated the 90s chronograph series in partnership with Grail Watch.
These Franck Muller Chronographs were origially introduced in the ’90s in two configurations. The first was a two counter version with a silver dial featuring applied Breguet ‘12’ and ‘6’ and applied dot markers. This bi-compax watch was 36mm in diameter. And then there was a black dial version with three counters with an applied Breguet ‘12’ and applied dot markers as well, and this watch was 37mm in diameter.
Commissioned by an Italian retailer in the ’90s, these Franck Muller Chronographs were made in small series of either 40 or 50 units each time. In some versions, the number of the watch was actually printed on the dial.
Rated as antimagnetic, these Franck Muller chronographs were made with steel cases, and had solid case-backs. Their timeless design evokes the legendary Patek chronograph references 130 and 1463 of the ’40s and ’50s. The cases were smooth and rounded with long elegant lugs and concave bezels. Pushers were pump-style while the crowns were large and flat.
The movement used in these bi-compax and tri-compax watches was Lemania 1874. This calibre is a shuttle cam-operated, laterally coupled chronograph movement introduced to the Speedmaster back in 1968. It was the successor to the column wheel-activated 2310 designed by Albert Piguet in the 1940s, and because its cam was much easier to set up, it was considered more reliable.
While the older watches were 36mm and 37mm in diameter, the new watches announced this year feature 39mm cases. At the same time, they stay extremely faithful to the case of the original watches with the same style, finish and the type of flat, oversized vintage-themed crown and large capped pushers.
The new watches can be distinguished from the 90s models by their fluted pusher caps, based on the style used by François Borgel. The dial design is also accurate to that of the original down to the texture, precise typography and colors used.
To equip the new models, the company has used new old stock Lemania 1874 movements from the 1990s. All of them were beautifully finished with Côtes de Genève and bearing the Franck Muller signature on their bridges.
The bi-compax and tri-compax models come with two caseback choices: Solid steel and transparent. The solid case-back ensures to retain the antimagnetic nature of the original watch. It allows people to engrave their initials or a message should they wish, and. Meanwhile, a sapphire crystal back allows the viewer to admire the historical movement beating inside.
These watches are available with simple calf straps, a vintage tan colored one for the silver dial version and a black one for the black dial variant.
In addition to these Lemania 1874 powered chronographs, Grail Watch presents a double sided chronograph launched to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Franck Muller manufacture.
This 39mm diameter manual-winding chronograph in stainless steel comes with two display sides. The front dial indicates hours & minutes at 6 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock, and chronograph with rattrapante (seconds counter in the center, minutes counter at 3 o’clock). The rear side offers Pulsometer, Tachymeter and Telemeter functions.
The Lemania bi-compax with silver dial and the Lemania tri-compax with black dial in 39mm steel case will each be made in 50 examples, following the original allocation numbers from the ’90s. The double-faced rattrapante with a steel 39mm case will be made in just 30 pieces.
Watches 1 to 10 of each timepiece will be sold together in box sets of three watches, while watches numbered 11 to 30 of the Double Sided Chronograph and 11 to 50 of the two Lemania-based Franck Muller Chronographs will be sold as individual pieces.
Technical details
Model: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Chronographs Bi-compax Chronograph, Reference END 39 CC 2 SILVER GRAIL WATCH BR
Case
Round case in stainless steel, hand-polished finish
Diameter: 39mm
Thickness: 10.95mm
Sapphire crystal glass
Polished stepped bezel with brushed flank
Signed oversized crown that improves grip during manual winding
Polished pump pushers with fluted end caps, in the François Borgel style from the 1940s and 50s
Elegant elongated lugs
Brushed stainless steel, screw-down, see-through caseback. Also comes with an additional solid caseback
Water resistant up to 30 meters
Dial
Silver Grené dial
Stamped guilloché with sun pattern
20 layers of translucent lacquer
Blued steel leaf hands
Tachymeter scale printed on a brushed metal ring
Recessed subdials with concentric circular pattern and polished rim
Applied, polished Breguet numerals and dot markers in an enlarged size
30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock
Small seconds dial at 9 o’clock
ANTIMAGNETIC designation just like the original watches from the 1990s
Functions
Hours, Minutes, Seconds at 9 o’clock, Chronograph (Seconds on the centre, Minutes at 3 o’clock)
Operating elements
Crown with 2 positions at 3 o’clock: 1. Winding. 2. Setting time
Pusher at 2 o’clock: Start / Stop of the Chronograph
Pusher at 4 o’clock: Reset at zero of the Chronograph
Movement
Calibre MVT FM 2759 (based on a NOS Lemania caliber 1874 ébauche)
Manual winding movement
Power reserve of 40 hours
128 components
18 rubies
Diameter: Ø 27.00 mm
Thickness: 5.90 mm
Balance wheel frequency: 21’600 alternations per hour
Movement Decoration
Côtes de Genève on the bridges and the rotor
Polishing on the recesses
Chamfering of the bridges and pivots
Soleil finishing on the rotor segment
Satin finishing on the pivots
Perlage on the main plate and the barrel cover
Strap
Vintage tan calf leather strap
Stainless steel buckle, hand polished
Price
USD 19,500
Availability
Limited and numbered edition of 50 pieces
Model: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Chronographs Tri-Compax Chronograph, Reference END 39 CC 3 BLACK GRAIL WATCH BR
Case
Round case in stainless steel, hand-polished finish
Diameter: 39mm
Thickness: 10.95mm
Sapphire crystal
Polished pump pushers with fluted end caps, in the François Borgel style from the 1940s and 50s
Signed oversized crown that improves grip during manual winding
Polished stepped bezel with brushed flank
Elegant elongated lugs
Brushed stainless steel, screw-down, see-through caseback. Also comes with an additional solid caseback
Water resistant up to 30 meters
Dial
Black Grené
Stamped guilloché with sun pattern
20 layers of translucent lacquer
Tachymeter scale
Polished steel leaf hands
Recessed subdials with concentric circular pattern and polished rim
Applied, polished Breguet numerals and dot markers in an enlarged size
30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock
12-hour chronograph counter at 6 o’clock
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Functions
Hours, Minutes, Seconds at 9 o’clock, Chronograph (minutes counter at 3 o’clock, hours counter at 6 o’clock, seconds in the center)
Operating elements
Winding shaft with 3 positions: 1.Winding. 2. Date & day settings. 3. Time setting
Chronograph start/stop with the push-button at 2 o’clock and reset with the one at 4 o’clock
Movement
MVT FM 2758 (based on a NOS Lemania caliber 1874 ébauche)
Manual winding movement
Power reserve of 40 hours
128 components
18 jewels
Diameter: Ø 27.00 mm. Thickness: 5.80 mm
Balance wheel frequency set at 21,600 alternations per hour
Movement decoration
Côtes de Genève on the bridges and the rotor
Polishing on the recesses
Chamfering of the bridges and pivots
Soleil finishing on the rotor segment
Satin finishing on the pivots
Perlage on the main plate and the barrel cover
Strap
Black calfskin strap with nubuck finish
Stainless steel buckle, hand-polished
Price
USD 20,500
Availability
Limited and numbered edition of 50 pieces
Model: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Chronographs Double Sided Rattrapante Chronograph, Reference 7000 CC R DF GRAIL WATCH
Case
Round case in stainless steel, hand-polished finish
Diameter: Ø 39 mm x Thickness: 13.45 mm
Sapphire crystal
Water resistant up to 30 meters
Polished pump pushers
Pusher for split seconds integrated into the crown
Straight lugs with screwed bar caps and standard spring bars
Rear side
Pulsometer scale printed on a black ring with concentric wave pattern
“Snail” tachymeter scale printed on a glossy black disc with concentric wave pattern
Telemeter scale printed on a silver ring with concentric circular pattern
Snap-on caseback ring
Co-axial double-sided chronograph seconds hand in polished steel that runs counter-clockwise
Dial
Stamped guilloché with sun pattern
20 layers of translucent lacquer
Roman numerals
Tachymeter scale printed on a white ring with concentric circular pattern
Polished steel chronograph seconds and split second hands
Recessed subdials with concentric circular pattern and polished rim
30-minute chronograph counter
Blued steel hands
Time-telling subdial at 6 o’clock reminiscent of other iconic Franck Muller designs such as the Master Banker
Functions
Hours & Minutes at 6 o’clock, Seconds at 9 o’clock, Chronograph with Rattrapante (seconds counter in the center, minutes counter at 3 o’clock)
Pulsometre, Tachymetre and Télémètre at the bottom of the watch
Operating elements
Winding shaft with 2 positions: 1.Winding. 2. Time setting
Chronograph start/stop with the push-button at 2 o’clock and reset with the one at 4 o’clock
Pushing-shaft at 3 o’clock for the start/stop of the rattrapante
Pulsometre, Tachymetre and Télémètre run by same start and stop button than the Chronograph
Movement
Calibre MVT FM 7000-CCRCDF
Manual winding movement
Power reserve of 54 hours
453 components
30 jewels
Diameter: Ø 29.80 mm. Thickness: 8.40 mm
Balance wheel frequency set at 28,800 alternations per hour
Strap
Hand sewn alligator strap with stainless steel buckle, hand-polished
Price
USD 25,500
Availability
Limited and numbered edition of 30 pieces
Box Set
Price: USD 64,500
Availability: 10 box sets featuring all three references (numbered editions 1 to 10)
