On the occasion of SIAR 2022, the De Bethune Manufacture is unveiling its 30th in-house calibre with the release of the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT.
In March 2021, De Bethune presented the DB Kind of Two Tourbillon, a bold and classic timepiece with double dial. The Manufacture now presents the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT, offering a different time zone on each of its sides.
The DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT is perfectly reversible and can be worn on either side according to the mood of the moment and the time zone chosen. This model houses a highly sophisticated mechanism based on a complex system of gears and pinions arranged on the front or back of the watch, and which enables the hands to turn in the right direction, regardless of the dial chosen.
The front side of the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT displays a dial featuring a sleek and contemporary design that highlights the mechanics. Indeed, it is a new reading of the hour centred on the balance wheel at 6 o’clock, accompanied by the minute index on the periphery.
Extensive work has been done on integrating polished, curved shapes, matt or glossy components, different thicknesses and levels, thereby creating a sensation of ample space and optimal volume, given the minimum height available for a watch integrating the complications of the jumping deadbeat second and the GMT. A perfectly symmetrical deltoid-shaped bridge is positioned in the centre.
The GMT side has a dial based on more traditional aesthetic inspiration, with a finely hand-guilloché central part surrounded by the numerals already featured on the dials of De Bethune models such as the DB8 and DB10.
The GMT function is complex in its conception, but very simple in its use. The layout of the functions is based on a double display of hours and minutes on both sides. Firstly, the owner sets his reference (home) time, and indicated by the hour and minute hands on the 12 o’clock dial, by means of the crown in position 3 on the contemporary side. Secondly, he will set his second time zone on the GMT side, by the hour and minute hand which is controlled by the crown pulled out to position 2.
Easy to use, yet highly complex, the system of floating lugs lends itself particularly well to the “pivoting” of the case. Redesigned especially for the DB Kind of Two, these elements have been equipped on each side with an ingenious little rotating mechanism made up of 28 components.
Thanks to a cam, a small “notch” allows the watch case to be instinctively and perfectly positioned in line with the floating lugs. The round case rotates on its central axis and can be positioned, front or back, in a delightfully easy, smooth and entirely natural way.
The perfectly symmetrical shape of the case middle offers a beautiful balance with the floating lugs and its elegant crown totally integrated at 12 o’clock (or 6 o’clock depending on the side chosen).
Model: De Bethune DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT
Dual front and back display of hours and minutes, jumping seconds, Second time zone (GMT)
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding, setting the time and the GMT, by means of the crown (3 positions)
Technical features of calibre DB2517
Number of parts: 394
Jewelling: 58 rubies
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 4 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities: Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
De Bethune Dead Beat Second – De Bethune Innovation (2011)
GMT allowing to adjust 2 time zones, different on each side
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Motion works bridge and concave cover plate in grade 5 titanium, mirror-polished
Polished and chamfered barrel bridge, with shot-blasted stages
Hand snailed barrels
Steel parts polished and chamfered by hand
Contemporary single-sided display
– Display: Polished titanium hours and minutes indication; Minute indication on the periphery; Hour indication centered around the balance wheel at 6 o’clock
– Dial: Silver hour ring with polished blued index; Silver colour minute ring with blue transfer
Classic reverse side display
– Display: hand-polished and blued titanium hands for hours, minutes and dead beat seconds
– Dial: Silvered and relief, with convex levels and guilloché central part
Material: Polished grade 5 titanium
Diameter: 43.3 mm
Thickness: 11.4 mm
Crown: at noon on the front side, at 6 o’clock on the reverse side, and integrated into the case
Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
With case turning mechanism that can be clearly positioned on the front or back side
Crystal doubles-sides: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in polished grade 5 titanium