De Bethune expands its perpetual calendar collection by releasing DB25sQP, a new model with a two-tone silver and blue dial, integrated lugs and a new 40mm titanium case.
Originally launched in 2011, the De Bethune DB25QP combines the perpetual calendar mechanism with the most romantic watchmaking complication – the moon phase.
Inspired by the shape of drums, the 40 mm-diameter round case with its slender and resolutely classic lines, is subtly enhanced by the open-worked lugs characteristic of the DB25 collection.
The two-tone hand-guilloché dial features a pattern radiating across 12 sectors. The perfect legibility has been achieved by the assembly of annular blue appliques, with silver-toned raised transfers and Roman numerals, marking off the subdials and the chapter ring.
At 12 o’clock, a palladium and blued steel sphere is set against a sky dotted with pink gold stars, also incorporating a leap-year indicator in a gold disc. The date can be read on a dial at 6 o’clock, while the apertures displaying the day of the week and the month are respectively located at 9 and 3 o’clock.
The round case of the new De Bethune DB25sQP watch retains the harmonious lines that contributed to the success of the original DB25QP but comes in titanium. Its integrated, open-worked and curved lugs further bring out the practical and pleasant wearing of this classically inspired watch.
This perpetual calendar is equipped with the Calibre DB2324V2, which is an improved version of the De Bethune DB2324 movement.
Entirely designed and developed by Denis Flageollet’s team in the Manufacture’s Haute Horlogerie workshops in Sainte Croix (Swiss Jura), the self-winding Calibre DB2324V2 offers a 5- day power reserve.
It incorporates a perpetual calendar, a spherical moon indicating the moon phases with a precision corresponding to 1 day/122 years, a self-regulating double barrel, a triple pare-chute system and a titanium/white gold balance.
Visible on the back of the watch, the balance is made of titanium and features the latest advances including an adjusted diameter and small white gold weights placed around the rims endowing it with a remarkable quality of inertia, reliability and regulation.
This model is equipped with the famous De Bethune balance spring. The Manufacture has opted to maintain its centre of gravity exactly in the centre by using a flat curve affixed to the outside of the balance spring.
Differences in the thickness of the blade add to the almost perfect precision of its concentric development. Its many advantages notably include reduced thickness, improved concentricity quality, finer adjustment of the index assembly system as well as no need for its pins, as the shape of the curve even acts as a shock absorber in case of impacts. The escape-wheel is made of silicon for the lightness of the material and also to increase the power of the calibre.
Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement is powered by a titanium and platinum oscillating weight. The transparent case-back also offers the view of its finishes: a three-quarter platinum bridge with sandblasted and hand-coloured starry sky decoration; a blued titanium balance bridge and oscillating weight arm; a hand-coloured white gold oscillating weight; as well as hand-bevelled and hand-polished steel parts.
The De Bethune Perpetual Calendar Reference DB25sQP is fitted with a leather strap secured by a polished titanium buckle and accompanied by a second grey fabric strap.
This new timepiece will be limited to a single production run of 15 units per year.
Model: De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar
Hours, Minutes, Spherical moon phase indication and leap-year indication at 12 o’clock, Perpetual calendar indicating the month at 3 o’clock, the date at 6 o’clock and the day of the week at 9 o’clock
Type: Mechanical self-winding movement
Adjustment: Winding, setting the date and the time by means of the crown (3 positions)
Month, day of the week and spherical moon phase adjustment via correctors
Number of parts: 423
Jewelling: 48 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Titanium and white gold balance wheel – De Bethune Innovation (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon phase indication accurate to a degree of one lunar day every 122 years – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Optimized oscillating weight in titanium and platinum
Oscillating weight shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2006)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
¾ plate with starry decor, sandblasted and snailed by hand
Balance bridge and oscillating weight arms in blued titanium
White gold oscillating weight hand snailed
Hand-polished, chamfered steel parts
Bicolor silver and blue hand-guilloché, with 12 radiating sectors
De Bethune star-studded sky in blued titanium, inlaid with rose gold stars
Curved hour, date and moon phase rings with silver relief Roman numerals
Hands curved, in hand mirror-polished steel
Perpetual calendar apertures indicating the day of the week at 9 o’clock and the month at 3 o’clock on anthracite discs with silver decal
Sub dial at 6 o’clock indicating the day of the month
Leap year indicated by a gold pastille appearing in the starry sky at 12 o’clock
Spherical moon phase indication in palladium and blued steel with an accuracy of one lunar day every 122 years at 12 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)
Material: Grade 5 titanium
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 11.3 mm
Lugs: Integrated, hollowed lugs
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Open back in polished titanium and sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance: 3 ATM
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in polished titanium