Moritz Grossmann DATE Turquoise Limited Edition

Moritz Grossmann presents a limited edition watch with an innovative jumping date display and an eye-catching guilloché dial in turquoise color.

Limited to 18 pieces, the Moritz Grossmann DATE Turquoise watch was created in collaboration with exquisite dial manufactory Comblémine by Kari Voutilainen in Switzerland’s Val-de-Travers.

A geometric pattern comprising several fine lines is engraved into the dial using a guilloché machine. The guilloché pattern on the dial and solid silver subsidiary seconds are furnished with a special coating.

The minute scale has been moved slightly inwards, creating space for the complete date scale from 1 to 31. The blue numerals contrast with the light background. The hours and minutes are impressed onto a silver ring in dot form. The hand-crafted lance-shaped hands are blued to match the circumferential date scale.  The date scale has a hand-crafted and blued bracket-shaped date marker.

The DATE Turquoise houses the calibre 100.3 with jumping date display. One special feature of this movement is that the time and date can be adjusted just before midnight and straight after midnight. The hand is positioned exactly on the right date via a click spring. In addition to the precise jumping date display, this date adjustment benefits from the fact that the switching finger does not interfere with the switching wheel except for the jump to the next date. As such, the date can be adjusted forwards and backwards at any time while the movement carries on running.

To correct the date, there is a separate setting crown at 10 o’clock. This crown is not active in the normal position, thus preventing accidental adjustment. To adjust the date, the crown has to be pulled out. The movement carries on running and the date can be changed by turning the crown in either direction.

Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, the artistically finished calibre 100.3 features the Grossmann balance, the ratchet wheel with 3-band snailing and the hand-engraved cantilevered balance cock with regulator arm and Grossmann micrometer screw. The finest cuts and polishes allow the whole ensemble to sparkle in a multitude of ways. The screws, annealed by hand in violet, are in perfect but subtle harmony with the German silver, steel and gold shades.

The manual winding with pusher developed in-house contains a perfected hand setting mechanism, which eliminates two potential problem areas: avoiding the ingress of foreign particles during the adjustment process and altering the hands unintentionally when pushing the crown back into place.

The DATE Turquoise is limited to a run of 18 pieces worldwide and available at the net retail price of EUR 42,500. The watch is completed by a fine hand-sewn strap made from black alligator leather.

Technical details

Model: Moritz Grossmann DATE Turquoise
Reference: MG-003406

Movement
Manufactory calibre 100.3, manual winding, regulated in five positions
No. of parts: 259
Diameter: 36.4 mm
Height: 5.55 mm
Jewels: 26 jewels, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve, Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
Balance diameter: 14.2 mm
Frequency: 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve: 42 hours when fully wound

Functions
Hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop second, date display, Grossmann manual winder with pusher

Operating elements
Two crowns in stainless steel to wind the watch and set the time and the date, pusher in stainless steel to start the watch

Case
Three-part, stainless steel
Diameter: 41.0 mm
Height: 11.85 mm
Crystal/display back: Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side

Dial
Solid silver, guilloché
Hands: Handcrafted, steel; hour, minute and seconds, date marker blue annealed

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in stainless steel

Special features
Grossmann balance; hand setting override and start of movement with lateral pusher; precisely jumping date display with a peripheral marker; bidirectional date adjustment with a second crown at 10 o‘clock; space-saving modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash; adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock; pillar movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver; 2/3 plate, balance cock and escape-wheel cock hand-engraved; broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing; 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; separately removable clutch winding mechanism; stop seconds for hand setting