Arnold & Son has released two new iterations of its ultrathin tourbillon watches. These new watches feature a new type of dial with tinted gold and aluminium sparkles to match their precious cases, which have also been redesigned.
In 5N red gold or 950 platinum, the cases are just 8.3 mm thick beneath their domed sapphire crystals. The offset display and the tourbillon aperture echo the way in which information was arranged on John Arnold’s marine chronometers.
To give the Ultrathin Tourbillon a new unique and refined design, Arnold & Son has focused on materials and techniques that highlight the precious appearance of this finely honed tourbillon.
The 41.5 mm cases in 5N red gold or 950 platinum have been redesigned, making them even slimmer and more refined. The bezels have been reduced to a fine metal band, the sapphire crystals are domed, and the transparent case backs have been screwed down.
Arnold & Son has used a new manufacturing technique known as ‘Cosmic Grené’ on the dials. This name makes direct reference to stargazing, as stars are essential guides for navigating at sea along with marine chronometers.
Gold powder mixed with aluminium sparkles has been placed on the dial plate to create a lightly sandblasted surface. This is then coloured: blue for the Ultrathin Tourbillon in red gold, and green for the platinum version. Due to the complex manufacturing methods involved, these dials are subtle and finely textured, with a discreet lustre.
The Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon watch houses the A&S8300 calibre, whose architecture and finesse characterise this collection. At just 2.97 mm thick, it is one of the slimmest tourbillon movements ever designed.
The tourbillon carriage has also been redesigned and undergone significant changes in relation to its predecessors. It features a variable-inertia balance with inertia blocks to ensure more stable calibration over time.
The redesigned tourbillon carriage echoes the leading role John Arnold played in marine exploration during the 18th century. Its triangular shape evokes a sextant, while its double-arrow counterpoise represents an anchor. The point in the middle serves as a seconds marker, as the carriage completes a full rotation in one minute.
The back of the Ultrathin Tourbillon reveals a new rear tourbillon bridge in 3N yellow gold that matches the gear train and stands out from the appearance of the rest of the calibre.
Modifications to the tourbillon carriage and regulating organ have increased the power reserve of the A&S8300 calibre, which now lasts at least 100 hours.
Models: Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon
Red gold: 1UTBR.U01A.C209A
Calibre A&S8300, 1 minute flying tourbillon, manual winding
Diameter: 32.00 mm
Thickness: 2.97 mm
Power reserve: 100 hours
Frequency: 3 Hz / 21,600 vph
Main plate: Côtes de Genève stripes radiating from the centre
Bridges: polished and chamfered by hand
Wheels: circular satin-finished
Screws: blued and chamfered, mirror-polished heads
Tourbillon carriage: ‘Arnold & Son’ signature
Rear tourbillon bridge: 18-carat (3N) yellow gold, sunray motif
‘Cosmic grené’: gold powder mixed with coloured aluminium sparkles
Flange: coloured and circular satin-finished
Base: white mother-of-pearl, domed
Ring: rhodium-plated or with 4N gold plating
18-carat (5N) red gold or Pt950 platinum
Diameter: 41.50 mm
Thickness: 8.30 mm (with crystal)
Crystal: Domed sapphire, with an anti-reflective coating on both sides
Case back: Sapphire crystal, with an anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance: 30 metres / 100 feet
Blue alligator leather hand-stitched with 18-carat (5N) red-gold thread or green alligator leather, hand-stitched with pt950 platinum thread
Folding clasp with top cover in 18-carat (5N) red gold or Pt950 platinum
Limited editions of 28 timepieces released of each model
Swiss retail prices
Red gold: CHF 73,300 including taxes (subject to change)
Platinum: CHF 85,100 including taxes (subject to change)