Released in a limited edition of 25 pieces, the DB28XP Steel Wheels watch by De Bethune fuses both architecture and technicality of the DB28 Steel Wheels movement with the DB28XP’s extra-flat titanium case.
The DB28 Steel Wheels was launched in 2018. It boasts an open worked dial to reveal the contemporary architecture of its movement. With the emblematic delta-shaped bridge and the moon phase at 6 o’clock, the DB28 Steel Wheels mesmerizes with different forms – hemispherical, concave, and spherical – for an architecturally dynamic result.
Introduced in 2020, the DB28XP is an ultrathin watch that celebrates 10 years of intense work and research, of a mechanical and aesthetic quest.
The new DB28XP Steel Wheels engages you to re-discover the art of De Bethune and its vision of watchmaking for tomorrow. A symbiosis between the thinness of the case, the components, the movement and the finishing – all of which resonate with each other in a spirit of great simplicity.
It’s about all the levels at which one experiences a timepiece, its layers, reliefs, the light playing with shadows and reflections. This De Bethune titanium watch reveals an architectural fusion of space, time and light that lingers long after the first glance.
A multitude of different shapes – hemispherical, concave, spherical, a sequence of microlight, satin, polished and blocked finishes allow a continuous interplay of light and shadow.
By playing with light and shadow, this dial adds depth and offers a more architectural and dynamic result. The watch as whole becomes more contemporary.
The distinctive architecture of Calibre 2115v11 is beautifully highlighted by the decision to trim down the mechanism, notably by open-working the barrels and ratchet wheels, as well as cutting out the heart of the central delta-shaped bridge. The latter is adorned with Microlight decoration, developed by De Bethune. The entire movement thus creates the impression of levitating.
The ratcheted chapter ring inspired by gear-wheel toothing surrounds 12 polished and blued spheres marking the hours and discreetly recall De Bethune’s signature. The hours and minutes hands in the center are made of blued titanium.
The hand-wound movement features De Bethune’s balance wheel, visible through the dial thanks to an opening at 6 o’clock. Its diameter is not too large, either. Made of titanium, it is equipped with small white gold weights placed on the outside to give remarkable qualities of inertia, reliability and regulating ability.
Then balance spring maintains its true centre of gravity with a flat terminal curve affixed to the outside of the balance-spring. Differences in the thickness of the blade add to the almost perfect precision of its concentric development. Among the many advantages: lower height, better adjustment of concentricity, finer adjustment of the racquet, no need for pins.
The curve’s shape even acts as a shock absorber in case of impact. Finally, the material’s internal structure remains intact since it has been neither stressed nor bent. It is through these numerous tried and tested developments, which are constantly revisited and further improved, that De Bethune has succeeded in increasing the power reserve by 20 percent, bringing it to a total of 6 days.
Equally visible – and geometrically positioned in relation to the calibre’s plate – is the exclusive triple shock absorption system designed to protect the whole assembly. Not only was De Bethune the first to design a bridge held on both sides, symmetrically, to ensure the balance is kept perfectly in position.
The two shock absorbers at each end supplement the shock absorber of the pendulum itself. Known as “triple pare-chute” or triple shock absorber, this system effectively absorbs and dampens violent shocks with springs instead of screws mounted on perfectly polished axes.
Dressed in a light weight titanium case, the DB28 Steel Wheels features De Bethune’s patented floating-lug system adjusting to wrist size and movements.
A more pronounced curvature, flowing with the lines of the wrist. The plate’s Microlight finish is echoed along the sides of the case band, rendered all the more meticulously in the absence of simple geometric forms.
The watch comes with an alligator strap with a titanium buckle.
Model: De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels
Hours, Minutes, Power Reserve on the back
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Technical features of calibre DB2115v11
Number of parts: 234
Jewelling: 36 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Titanium balance with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration
Polished titanium hours ring with polished blued titanium spherical hour-markers
Circular satin-brushed titanium minutes ring
Titanium Barrel Bridge and triangular central bridge guards with sandblasted and polished chamfered contours
Polished titanium dial base and microlight decoration
Open worked and hand sailed barrels
Polished blued titanium hands
Polished grade 5 titanium with “microlight” case middle
Case diameter: 43 mm
Case thickness: 7.2 mm
Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Crystal: Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Caseback: Screwed case back in polished grade 5 titanium opened on a linear power reserve indicator
Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM
Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: Grade 5 titanium buckle and pin