On the occasion of the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary, Audemars Piguet has released an array of new selfwinding hour, minute, second and date models in 37 mm as well as new 38 and 41 mm selfwinding chronographs, which will be launched throughout the year.
Although retaining the aesthetic codes of the original Royal Oak designed by Gérald Genta, these new references present slight evolutions in terms of case, bracelet and dial design.
These evolutions align with the brand’s continuous improvement approach which has enabled the Manufacture to consistently push further the limits of design and mastery across generations.
In addition to welcoming new calibres, most of the new models are equipped with the dedicated Royal Oak “50-years” oscillating weight. Additional models in 41 and 34 mm will be available in the second half of 2022.
The new selfwinding chronographs in 38 and 41 mm as well as the 37 mm selfwinding hour, minute, second and date models encompass a variety of materials and dial aesthetics as well as the new design evolution celebrating the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary.
Paying tribute to the collection’s original aesthetics, while enhancing its ergonomics, the Manufacture has performed subtle changes on the Royal Oak case. The bevels adorning the top and the bottom of the case have been enlarged to enhance the play of light between the satin-finished and polished surfaces, while bestowing the watch with a slender aesthetic. For its part, the caseback has been slightly more integrated into the case middle to sit more comfortably on the wrist.
To accentuate the finesse of the new case design, the integrated bracelet’s first four links are now trapezoid in shape and no longer parallel. This more pronounced decrease in thickness brings forward the bracelet’s taper for more visual appeal. Furthermore, the links are thinner throughout the bracelet, and therefore lighter, offering added comfort and optimum ergonomics.
First introduced on Royal Oak models in gold a few years back, this evolved aesthetic appears for the first time on stainless steel and titanium references.
The luminescent facetted hour-markers are part of the Royal Oak’s recognisable codes. This year, the Le Brassus artisans have harmonised the size of the hour-markers and hands while retaining their aesthetics to reinforce the coherence between the different models across the collection, regardless of diameter and material. The proportions of the hour-markers of the new selfwinding chronographs and selfwinding hour, minute, second and date timepieces have been standardised according to the different diameters.
In addition, the logo has been reworked. A gold Audemars Piguet signature endowed with a unique topography now replaces the applied AP monogram and the printed “AUDEMARS PIGUET” at 12 o’clock. The embossed signature adorning the new Royal Oak “anniversary” models was originally conceived for the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection.
Made of thin layers of 24-carat gold, the signature is achieved through a chemical process akin to 3D printing known as galvanic growth. Each letter is connected with links approximately the size of a hair and placed on the dial by hand with tiny legs almost invisible to the naked eye.
This method which required three years of development is difficult to achieve due to the signature’s length. For the new Royal Oak models, the challenge has been to develop a second signature size for the 34 and 37 mm novelties – the signature size of the new Royal Oak in 41 mm being the same as for the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet timepieces. The Manufacture’s engineers and artisans tested an array of variations once more before setting on final proportions.
Lastly, the minute track, which was previously printed on the flat external zone, now appears directly onto the Tapisserie of all Royal Oak selfwinding hour, minute, second and date models for more visual appeal – a challenging process due to the unique topography of the guilloché dial.
Faithful to the aesthetic of the original model from 1972, numerous references across the Royal Oak collection now welcome the iconic Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 dial colour (“night blue, cloud 50”), combined with a Petite or Grande Tapisserie pattern.
The dial’s Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50hue was originally developed by Geneva-based dial maker Stern Frères. The blue colour was obtained by immersing each dial in a galvanic bath. While the formulation of the mixture is important, the duration and temperature are both crucial. If the artisan removes the dial too early, it comes out purple, if removed too late it turns black. A thin layer of varnish mixed with a few drops of black colour (n° 50) was then applied onto the dial to protect it.
The term “nuage” refers to the cloud effect the drop of black creates when it enters the protective liquid varnish. Today, the Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 hue is achieved internally through PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) to ensure a more homogeneous colour across the collection.
The new references also celebrate another recognisable aesthetic feature of the Royal Oak: the guilloché Tapisserie dial. Most of the 2022 Royal Oak novelties in 34, 37, 38 and 41 mm are endowed with a Grande Tapisserie pattern achieved through a complex manufacturing process based on a rare know-how no longer taught in horology school.
Hundreds of small truncated pyramids with square bases are carved out on the dial’s thin metal plate by an old guilloché copying machine that reproduces the motif of a matrix. Tens of thousands of diamond shapes, whose four inner faces reflect the light, are simultaneously cut out in the thin grooves separating the squares in a seamless weave that creates a tapestry appearance. This process requires extreme dexterity and precision.
The decision to complement the original Petite Tapisserie motif with a more generous, legible and extensive Tapisserie was taken in 1998. While the manufacturing technique remained the same, the bases of the truncated pyramids became twice as big, thus considerably reducing the number of pyramids from approximately 700 to 380 on a 39 mm Royal Oak “Jumbo” dial.
Three Royal Oak models adorning the new Grande Tapisserie dial were presented a year later. Their success was such that this motif appeared on most of the Royal Oak models in 2000 to the point of outshining the Petite Tapisserie which completely vanished from the catalogue before returning in 2012 on the occasion of the Royal Oak’s 40th anniversary.
The new Royal Oak “anniversary” timepieces are fitted with the dedicated oscillating weight in 22-carat gold that features the “50-years” logo and the engraved Audemars Piguet signature. For the occasion, the oscillating weight has been matched to the colour of each case and finished with an alternation of satin-finishing and polished chamfers.
The “50-years” oscillating weight will be fitted to the Royal Oak anniversary models endowed with the new design evolution throughout 2022, with the exception of the 38 mm chronographs.
The Royal Oak models endowed with the new design evolution are equipped with three different calibres, including a brand new one, Calibre 5900. This selfwinding hour, minute, second and date movement premiers this year on Royal Oak references in 37 mm, in replacement for Calibre 3120.
This new mechanism is thinner (3.9 mm vs 4.26 mm) than its predecessor and offers a higher frequency (4 Hz vs 3 Hz). It is also endowed with 60 hours of power reserve when not on the wrist.
In addition, Calibre 4401, first introduced on gold Royal Oak models in 2021, makes its debut this year on the new 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronographs in stainless steel.
This in-house integrated chronograph endowed with flyback function encompasses enhanced chronometry as well as an instantaneous date-change mechanism.
In addition, it features a column wheel and a vertical clutch system – a feat reserved to high-end chronographs due to the complexity of its components.
The movement’s refined finishing, including Côtes de Genève, satin brushing, circular graining, circular satin and polished chamfers, can be admired through the sapphire caseback.
Lastly, Calibres 5900 and 4401, which power the 15550, 15551, 26240 and 26242 references, are both fitted with the dedicated anniversary oscillating weight.
In constant dialogue with the world that inspires it, the Royal Oak has seen countless evolutions over the years and reached the status of icon. Launched in 1972, the Royal Oak designed by Gérald Genta, was available for the first four years in a unique stainless steel design, Model 5402.
In 1976, the first women’s Royal Oak designed by Jacqueline Dimier saw the light of day, marking the beginning of a collection. The following year, the collection expanded with gold models, new diameters and new calibres. From then on and in barely five years (1977–1981), 27 new models were created.
In 1978, the introduction of gemset dials and cases enabled new creative and refined developments. In 1980, the Manufacture launched its first non-guilloché Royal Oak dials, notably on feminine creations, thus offering new decorative possibilities. In 1992, the introduction of the sapphire caseback allowed Audemars Piguet to reveal the minute handiwork adorning its movement components. This turning point for the collection set a new trend still found on numerous references today.
Since 1976, the Royal Oak’s evolving process has been continuous. Only the essential aesthetic codes of the collection, such as the tonneau-shaped case, the octagonal bezel and the eight visible hexagonal screws have remained unchanged.
The evolution of the newly released models celebrating this anniversary year marks yet another milestone in the development of a collection that has crossed eras and trends. 50 years on, more than 500 versions have reinterpreted this iconoclast turned icon.
Technical details
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm
Movement
Selfwinding Calibre 5900
Total diameter: 26.2 mm (11½ lignes)
Total thickness: 3.9 mm
Number of jewels: 29
Number of parts: 186
Minimum power reserve guaranteed: 60 h
Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
“50-years” oscillating weight in rhodium-toned 22-carat pink gold.
Functions
Hours, minutes, centre seconds and date
Reference 15550SR.OO.1356SR.01
Case: Stainless steel case and 18-carat pink gold bezel, Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, Screw-locked crown, Water-resistant to 50 m, Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, Pink gold hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet with 18-carat pink gold studs and stainless steel AP folding clasp.
Reference 15550ST.OO.1356ST.01
Case: Stainless steel case and bezel, Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, Screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m, Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp
Reference 15550ST.OO.1356ST.02
Case: Stainless steel case and bezel, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 15550ST.OO.1356ST.03
Case: Stainless steel case and bezel, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: Grey dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 15550ST.OO.1356ST.04
Case: Stainless steel case and bezel, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: Light blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 15551ST.ZZ.1356ST.01
Case: Stainless steel case, bezel set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds(~0.92 carats), glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: Light blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 15551ST.ZZ.1356ST.02
Case: Stainless steel case, bezel set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.92 carats), glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 15551ST.ZZ.1356ST.03
Case: Stainless steel case, bezel set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.92 carats), glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: Grey dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 15551OR.ZZ.1356OR.01
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, bezel set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.92 carats), glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: 18-carat pink gold bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 15551OR.ZZ.1356OR.02
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, bezel set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.92 carats), glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: 18-carat pink gold bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 15551OR.ZZ.1356OR.03
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, bezel set with 40-brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.92 carats), glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 8.9 mm
Dial: Khaki green dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: 18-carat pink gold bracelet andAP folding clasp
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38 mm
Movement
Selfwinding Calibre 2385
Total diameter: 26.2 mm (11 ½ lignes)
Total thickness: 5.5 mm
Number of jewels: 37
Number of parts: 304
Minimum power reserve guaranteed: 40 h
Frequency of balance wheel: 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
Functions
Chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds and date
Reference 26715ST.OO.1356ST.01
Case: Stainless steel case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 11 mm
Dial: “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26715ST.OO.1356ST.02
Case: Stainless steel case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 11 mm
Dial: Grey dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, silver-toned counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26715ST.ZZ.1356ST.01
Case: Stainless steel case, bezel set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.92 carats), glare-proofed sapphire crystal, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 11 mm
Dial: Light blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, silver-toned counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26715OR.OO.1356OR.01
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 11 mm
Dial: “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
Bracelet: 18-carat pink gold bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26715OR.ZZ.1356OR.01
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, bezel set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.92 carats), glare-proofed sapphire crystal, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 11 mm
Dial: Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, silver-toned counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: 18-carat pink gold and AP folding clasp.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm
Movement
Selfwinding Calibre 4401
Total diameter: 32 mm (14lignes)
Total thickness: 6.8 mm
Number of jewels: 40
Number of parts: 381
Minimum power reserve guaranteed: 70 h
Frequency of balance wheel: 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
“50-years” oscillating weight in rhodium-toned 22-carat pink gold.
Functions
Flyback chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds and date.
Reference 26240ST.OO.1320ST.01
Case: Stainless steel case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26240ST.OO.1320ST.02
Case: Stainless steel case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: Black dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, black counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26240ST.OO.1320ST.03
Case: Stainless steel case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, silver-toned counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26240ST.OO.1320ST.04
Case: Stainless steel case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: Khaki green dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, khaki green counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26240OR.OO.1320OR.01
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” counters, pink gold hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: 18-carat pink gold bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26240OR.OO.1320OR.02
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: Black dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, black counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: 18-carat pink gold bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26240OR.OO.1320OR.03
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, silver-toned counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: 18-carat pink gold bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26240OR.OO.1320OR.04
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: Khaki green dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, khaki green counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: 18-carat pink gold bracelet and AP folding clasp.
Reference 26240OR.OO.D315CR.01
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Strap: Blue alligator strap with 18-carat pink gold AP triple-blade folding clasp.
Reference 26240OR.OO.D404CR.01
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness 12.4 mm
Dial: Khaki green dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, khaki green counters, 18-carat pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Strap: Khaki green alligator strap with 18-carat pink gold AP triple-blade folding clasp.
Reference 26240OR.OO.D002CR.01
Case: 18-carat pink gold case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: Black dial with “Grande Tapisserie” dial, black counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Strap: Black alligator strap with 18-carat pink gold AP triple-blade folding clasp.
Reference 26242OR.ZZ.1322OR.01
Case: 18-carat pink gold case set with brilliant-cut diamonds, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 50 m. Case thickness: 12.4 mm
Dial: 18-carat pink gold dial set with brilliant-cut diamonds, pink-gold-toned counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Bracelet: 18-carat pink gold bracelet set with brilliant-cut diamonds and AP folding clasp.
Setting: 736 brilliant-cut diamonds (case and bracelet) (~7.18 carats). 234 brilliant-cut diamonds (dial) (~0.82 carats).
