Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo achieved a total of CHF 22,303,780/ $22,616,032/ €21,538,760 in The Royal Oak 50th Sale on 6 May – a white glove sale that more than tripled its pre-sale low estimate of CHF 6.8 million.

The sale took place on Friday, 6 May, in Geneva, and offered 88 tightly curated lots. The sale precedes The Geneva Watch Auction: XV, which follows on Saturday and Sunday 7-8 May 2022. The majority of lots soared above their high estimates, including several record-breaking watches.

Collectors from across 54 countries joined the auction, and online participation continued to increase exponentially, with more than 1000 online registered bidders. This resulted in half of the lots presented in the Royal Oak 50th selling to online bidders, with 430 watch aficionados participating in person in the saleroom.

The impressive and highly anticipated star-lot, a Royal Oak reference 5402ST A2 – the second Royal Oak ever made – added extra fervor to the bidding. The watch was one of the four Royal Oak models presented to the press and public at the opening of the Basel watch fair in 1972.

During the auction, it eventually surpassed the CHF 1 million mark realizing CHF 1,058,500, therefore selling five times its pre-sale low estimate.

Another impressive result was achieved by the Royal Oak perpetual calendar in platinum, reference 25654PT with copper brown dial, and double-signed by Asprey realized CHF 1,022,200, doubling its pre-sale high estimate.

An icon probably worn by an icon, The Lagerfeld Royal Oak reference 5402ST, a very distinctively blackened stainless-steel Royal Oak Jumbo model, fetched CHF 937,500. The watch, in all likelihood, was bought in Italy in 1974 and is understood to have been worn by the famous German designer, creative director, fashion designer and artist, Karl Lagerfeld.

Finally, another remarkable result was achieved by the Royal Oak “Tuscan” Jubilée ref. 14802P limited edition platinum wristwatch with blue Tuscan dial, date, bracelet, made to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the model, which eventually sold for CHF 804,400.

Top Ten Lots of the Royal Oak 50th

Lot 8: Audemars Piguet Ref. 5402ST Royal Oak A series, “The A2” – An historically important and extremely well-preserved stainless-steel wristwatch with date, bracelet, box and certificate of origin.

• Estimate: CHF 200,000-400,000
• Achieved: CHF 1,058,500/ $ 1,073,319/ € 1,022,193 (world record for a vintage Royal Oak ever at auction)

Lot 40: Audemars Piguet Ref. 25654PT Royal Oak – An extremely rare and attractive platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with brown dial, bracelet, certificate and box retailed by Asprey bearing N0. 1.

• Estimate: CHF 250,000-500,000
• Achieved: CHF 1,022,200/ $1,036,511/ € 987,138 (World record for any perpetual calendar Royal Oak)

Lot 88: Audemars Piguet Ref. 5402ST Royal Oak Jumbo “Karl Lagerfeld” – A very distinctive blackened stainless-steel wristwatch with date and bracelet.

• Estimate: CHF 100,000-200,000
• Achieved: CHF 937,500/ $ 950,625/ € 905,343

Lot 10: Audemars Piguet Ref. 14802PT Royal Oak “Tuscan” Jubilée – An extremely attractive limited edition platinum wristwatch with blue Tuscan dial, date, bracelet, made to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the model.

• Estimate: CHF 250,000-500,000
• Achieved: CHF 804,400/ $ 815,662/ € 776,809 (world record for the model)

Lot 33: Audemars Piguet Ref. 25829TP Royal Oak – An extremely rare and superb tantalum and platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with open-worked dial and bracelet, part of a 16-pieces limited series.

• Estimate: CHF 120,000-240,000
• Achieved: CHF 768,100/ $ 779,259/ € 742,140 (world record for the model)

Lot 52: Audemars Piguet Ref. 5402ST Royal Oak Jumbo “Khanjar” – An extremely rare and fine stainless-steel wristwatch with date and bracelet, made for the Sultanate of Oman.

• Estimate: CHF 150,000-300,000
• Achieved: CHF 756,000/ $ 766,584/ € 730,069

Lot 15: Audemars Piguet Ref. 25636PT Royal Oak – A superbly rare and incredibly attractive platinum perpetual calendar wristwatch with open-worked dial, moonphases, bracelet and box.

• Estimate: CHF 200,000-400,000
• Achieved: CHF 680,400/ $ 689,925/ € 657,052

Lot 54: Audemars Piguet Ref. 5554ST Royal Oak “Triple Serial” – A supremely rare stainless steel perpetual calendar wristwatch with moonphases, 4-digit reference and “triple serial” case. The first and thinnest Royal Oak perpetual calendar model ever produced, part of a 49 pieces series.

• Estimate: CHF 80,000-160,000
• Achieved: CHF 680,400/ $ 689,925/ € 657,062

Lot 72: Audemars Piguet Ref. 25659BA – An impressive yellow gold and diamond perpetual calendar wristwatch with open worked dial, part of a 3-pieces limited series.

• Estimate: CHF 250,000-500,000
• Achieved: CHF 630’000/ $ 638,820/ € 608,391

Lot 61: Audemars Piguet Ref. 25654ST Royal Oak – A very attractive stainless steel perpetual calendar wristwatch with salmon dial, bracelet, certificate and box.

• Estimate: CHF 100,000-200,000
• Achieved: CHF 579,600/ $ 587,714/ € 559,719

Auction summary

Auction name: The Royal Oak 50th by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo
Total amount achieved: CHF 22,303,780/ $22,616,032/ €21,538,760
Lots sold: 88
Lots offered: 88
Sold by lot: 100%
Sold by value: 100%