TUDOR has been producing motor sport inspired watches since the presentation of the Oysterdate in 1970, the brand’s first chronograph. Likewise, since 1954 TUDOR has been constantly refining its professional divers’ watches. Its new Black Bay Chrono S&G model combines these traditions in a sport-chic chronograph, with contrasting sub-counters and a high-performance automatic Manufacture Calibre, with column wheel and vertical clutch.
Remaining faithful to the Black Bay aesthetic, the Black Bay Chrono S&G Reference 79363N has adopted the famous “Snowflake” hands, a brand signature for divers’ watches since 1969, to ensure outstanding readability against the domed dial.
Available in two versions, matt black or a sunray satin-finish champagne colour, the dial includes two recessed sub-counters in contrasting colours, a champagne colour and matt black respectively, for optimum legibility.
The sub-counters have a circular-grained finish and, inspired by the first generation of TUDOR chronographs, feature a 45-minute counter and a date aperture positioned at 6 o’clock. The recognisable characteristics of the Black Bay are preserved in a steel and yellow gold case with a 41-millimetre diameter.
The design of the yellow gold pushers has been inspired by the very first generation of TUDOR chronographs. A fixed bezel in yellow gold with an insert in black anodised aluminium with tachymetric scale, complete the distinguished appearance of this sporty chronograph.
The fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which, in 2010, became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its products. Woven in France using a traditional method on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality and comfort on the wrist are unique.
For the Black Bay Chrono S&G Reference 79363N model, TUDOR has selected a black strap woven by these traditional craftsmen. The model is also available with a stainless steel and yellow gold bracelet inspired by the folding riveted bracelets made by TUDOR in the 1950s and 1960s.
These were famous for having visible rivet heads on the side of the bracelet that held the links together. The links also had a distinct stepped construction. These two aesthetic details are found on the current bracelet, which also integrates modern manufacturing methods with solid links and laser-finished rivet-style heads.
Finally, entirely in keeping with the spirit of “1970s racing”, the Black Bay Chrono S&G offers another choice of bracelet: a bund in aged dark brown leather with ecru topstitching and a steel folding clasp.
The Manufacture Calibre MT5813, which powers the Black Bay Chrono S&G model, displays hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph and date functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres. Its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted and polished surfaces and laser decorations.
Boasting a 70-hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring, the Manufacture Chronograph Calibre MT5813 is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance exceeding the standards set by this independent institute.
A high-performance movement, it was crafted in the purest watchmaking tradition, with a column wheel mechanism and vertical clutch. In keeping with the TUDOR philosophy of quality, it presents extraordinary robustness and reliability, guaranteed by the array of extreme tests applied to all TUDOR products.
Derived from the Manufacture Calibre Breitling 01 chronograph, with a high-precision regulating organ developed by TUDOR and exclusive finishes, this movement is the result of a lasting collaboration between the two brands, which have chosen to pool their expertise in the design and production of certain mechanical movements so that both parties can benefit from their use.
Like all models in the Black Bay line, the Black Bay Chrono S&G adopts TUDOR’s characteristic angular “Snowflake” hands, which first appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue.
Model: Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G
41-mm 316L steel case with polished and satin finish
Fixed yellow gold bezel with matt black anodised aluminium disc with tachymetric scale, gold-plated markings
Yellow gold screw-down winding crown with the TUDOR rose in relief
Yellow gold screw-down pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock
Domed sapphire crystal
Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft)
Black with gold counters, or champagne-colour with black counters, domed
Date at 6 o’clock
Manufacture Calibre MT5813 with chronograph function
Self-winding mechanical chronograph movement with bidirectional rotor system
Power Reserve: Approximately 70 hours
Swiss chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
Total diameter: 30.4 mm
Thickness: 7.23 mm
Jewels: 41 jewels
Hour and minute hands at the centre
Chronograph seconds at the centre
Chronograph 45-minute counter at 3 o’clock
Small second hand at 9 o’clock
Instantaneous date at 6 o’clock with rapid adjustment without non-correction range
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
Riveted 316L steel and yellow gold bracelet with polished and satin finish, or dark brown leather strap with removable bund with steel folding clasp and safety catch, or black fabric strap with buckle