Moritz Grossmann TREMBLAGE
Launched to mark the Moritz Grossmann manufactory’s anniversary on 11 November 2021, TREMBLAGE revives a historic engraving technique. Available in rose gold and stainless steel versions, this anniversary watch highlights the ancient tremblage hand-engraving technique.
Decorating surfaces by means of engraving is an ancient art that has been cultivated for several thousand years. It is a skill that was also practised by ancient civilisations. The traditional technique has been continuously refined over the centuries and also gave rise to the special form of tremblage.
Authors Paul Hanff and Robert Neubert refer to it as “Tambulieren” in their book “Anleitung zur Erlernung der Gravierkunst” (Instructions for learning the art of engraving). This term, along with “Tramblieren” and “Trambulieren”, was also common in the past (cf. Anleitung zur Gravierkunst – Fachbibliothek des Edelmetallgewerbes – P. Hanff, R. Neubert; Leipzig, 1921).
According to Paul Hanff and Robert Neubert, the engraver had to set one corner of the burin into the metal and constantly move it “back and forth, from right to left, from one corner to the other”. It was this movement that gave the technique its name – the French word “tremblant” simply means “to tremble”.
Depending on the movement, the tremblage stroke could be executed finely or coarsely. It also takes a great deal of practice to be able to execute them uniformly. This technique creates an impressive, rough and matt surface, as can be admired on the dial of Moritz Grossmann’s anniversary watch. Fashioned from German silver, the new model was finished by hand using a range of burins.
German silver is an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc, among others, which is frequently used in historical watches and movements. Thanks to the surface treatment, this alloy produces a silver-like hue with an aesthetic vintage look. The three-dimensional appearance of the dial underscores the effect: The numerals of the hours and circular small seconds rise above the surface, as does the historic “M. Grossmann” logo from 1875, which goes back to Moritz Grossmann, the famous watchmaking pioneer.
These are not mounted appliqués. On the contrary, the base of the dial has been cut out and removed so that the logo, numerals and seconds circle remain. This task also requires meticulous care to create clean edges. The top of the numerals, logo and seconds circle were also given a flat polish finish.
Only then did the dial undergo the painstaking tremblage process in Glashütte, a method that takes numerous hours. A single dial can take an engraver several days to complete. The whole is complemented by the meticulous craftsmanship of the finishers. The result is exquisite fine grain that softens the effect of incident light and lends a wonderfully matt appearance to the tremblage surface. The lavishly flat polished raised elements create a lustrous contrast.
Such elaborate work – as well as the revival of the historic technique – is in keeping with Moritz Grossmann’s philosophy. The manufactory has been attracting attention with its exquisite movements and sophisticated features ever since it was re-founded 13 years ago. The anniversary watch continues this trend and boasts a number of unique details. For example, handcrafted hands annealed to a brown-violet hue using traditional temperature treatment circle above the dial in the rose gold version and blued steel hands in the stainless steel model.
The manually wound calibre 100.1 of the watch is visible through the glass case back. The calibre incorporates innovative new developments from the manufactory, such as a newly configured oscillator. Optimised for artisanal manufacturing techniques, the ingenious design of the Grossmann balance improves the adjustability of inertia and achieves high kinetic energy combined with minimised air resistance and the smallest possible mass.
The sophisticated design of the pillar movement, which, like the dial, is made of untreated German silver, is mesmerising, as is the elaborate hand finishing of all components. The German silver train bridge was endowed with a granular surface using an elaborate artisan process, resulting in a smooth finish. The all-round edges are bevelled by hand. Their polished surfaces lend them a certain, lustrous appeal. Moritz Grossmann’s signature is hand-engraved in a historic cursive script.
The individual movement number is similarly engraved here in a cursive script. Both the balance and escape-wheel cock are also hand-engraved with a floral pattern. Traditional finishes have also been applied to other surfaces. The ratchet wheel, for example, boasts three-band snailing. White sapphires as bearings, held by gold chatons and fastened by brown-violet screws, contribute to the unique look of the watch.
A 750/000 rose gold case, worn with a dark brown bracelet made of hand-stitched alligator leather, provides a fitting accompaniment for the elaborate manufactory movement of the anniversary model. The TREMBLAGE is also optionally available with a stainless steel case and a matching dark blue alligator strap.
The new model and the entire collection are now available in the new Moritz Grossmann Online Boutique.
Versions
TREMBLAGE rose gold version
Reference: MG-003290
Case: Rose gold
Dial: German silver, tremblage
Hands: Manually crafted, annealed to a brown-violet hue
TREMBLAGE stainless steel version
Reference: MG-003327
Case: Stainless steel
Dial: German silver, tremblage
Hands: Manually crafted, annealed to a blue hue
Technical details
Model: Moritz Grossmann TREMBLAGE
Movement
Manufactory calibre 100.1, manual winding, regulated in five positions
Diameter: 36.4 mm
Height: 5.0 mm
No. of parts: 198
Jewels: 20 jewels, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve, Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
Balance: Diameter: 14.2 mm, frequency: 18,000 semi-oscillations/hour
Power reserve: 42 hours when fully wound
Functions
Hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop second, Grossmann manual winder with pusher
Operating elements
Crown in 750/000 gold/stainless steel to wind the watch and set the time, pusher in 750/000 gold/stainless steel to start the movement
Case
Three-part, precious metal/stainless steel
Diameter: 41.0 mm
Height: 11.35 mm
Crystal/display back Sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on one side
Dial
German silver, tremblage
Hands
Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a brown-violet or blue hue
Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in precious metal/stainless steel
Special features
Dial tremblage, Grossmann balance; hand setting override and start of movement with lateral pusher; space-saving modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash; adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock; movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver; 2/3 plate, balance cock and escape-wheel cock hand-engraved; grained train bridge; 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; separately removable clutch winding mechanism; stop seconds for hand setting
