Seamlessly blending aesthetics and technicality, Maestro showcases an original take on the horological creativity of Christophe Claret. Its glass dome provides a striking, almost dizzying view of the movement architecture and the famous Charles X bridges. Endowed with a seven-day power reserve, a cone-shaped large date display and a 3D MEMO function, Maestro asserts itself as the first Haute Complication watch by Christophe Claret with a price of 72’000 CHF.
The 42mm case – the smallest diameter in the Christophe Claret collections – in grade 5 titanium, 5N red gold or platinum asserts its style with a curvex shape that accentuates its trim design. The choice of a glass dome to serve as a bezel provides a whole new perspective on the movement. The airy and graphic architecture – reinforced by the inner bezel ring featuring matt and polished finishing or set with baguette-cut gems, as well as Christophe Claret’s characteristic two-tone, bi-material hands.
The show really gets going with an exploration of the mechanical hand-wound movement. In line with previous models in the Traditional collection, Christophe Claret has lavished great care on every detail and focused on ensuring an ideal match between technical and aesthetic aspects. The visual journey begins with the famous Charles X style stepped and skeletonized bridges that have become a signature of the Maison through its various collections.
The skeleton-working of the bridge supporting the escapement represents a clever blend of classicism and modernity that affords a chance to appreciate all its subtle features. The balance-wheel with countersunk screws has been entirely developed and produced in-house.
Expressing a permanent concern for details, a natural ruby or a natural sapphire, depending on the version, adorns this assembly in order to conceal the shock-absorbing system. This rare degree of mastery, encompassing the full range of Haute Horlogerie professions, enables the Manufacture to transcend technical sophistication by its constant pursuit of aesthetic perfection.
The visual adventure through the intricacies of the movement continues with two series-coupled barrels ensuring optimal efficiency and majestically positioned at 12 o’clock. Here too, the bridges are skeletonized to provide an exemplary view of the blade spring of the first barrel and thus enable the wearer of the watch to gauge the state of the seven-day power reserve. A fine example of the golden rule tirelessly followed by Christophe Claret: techniques and aesthetics join forces in serving useful complications.
Christophe Claret never misses out on a chance to express his creative audacity through original displays running counter to traditional design codes. An excellent example is the large date that the watchmaker has cleverly placed at 5 o’clock. Composed of two cones, one for the tens on the upper part and the second for the units, this patented large date display performs a semi-instantaneous jump between midnight and twenty past midnight. Lending the perfect finishing touch, its top is set with a natural ruby or a natural sapphire.
As if to echo the 3D effect of this voluminous date display, another cone shape – also topped with a sapphire or ruby – draws the gaze to the space between 3 and 4 o’clock. Never one to stint on playful complications liable to fire the imagination of watch connoisseurs, Christophe Claret unveils here another brand-new function.
Inspired by the expression “tie a knot in your handkerchief” to help one remember something important, MEMO is an ingenious mechanical reminder intended for absent-minded individuals as well as fans of technical gadgets. Whatever daily objective the owner of the Maestro has set himself, the MEMO is there to remind him of his commitments. In the initial position, meaning when the owner must do something, the gem visible at 6 o’clock on the side face of the MEMO is the same color as the one at the top of the MEMO, meaning two rubies or two sapphires depending on the model.
Once the objective has been met, a simple press on the pusher at 2 o’clock pivots the MEMO function, which will display a diamond on its side face at 6 o’clock, instead of the ruby or the sapphire. The MEMO will return to its initial position each night in a twenty-minute process driven by a semi-instantaneous jump system.
Hand-finished according to the noblest Haute Horlogerie traditions, the Maestro reveals a level of finishing that few watch manufacturers can claim to master, such as the stepped Charles X style bridges featuring 26 interior angles. A sapphire crystal pane fitted on the back of the watch provides a chance to admire the meticulous movement decorations.
Maestro Indian is in grade 5 titanium pink chrome movement, issued in 17-piece limited editions.
Model: Christophe Claret Maestro Indian
Caliber: DMC16, mechanical hand-wound Dimensions: – Diameter: 36.25 mm – Thickness: 10.50 mm (without the hands) Number of components: 349 Number of jewels: 33
Barrels: Two series-mounted barrels Power reserve: 7 days (approx. 168 hours)
– Swiss lever escapement
– Balance-wheel with countersunk screws
– Balance-wheel oscillation frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
Pointer-type display of the hours and minutes
Pyramid-shaped large date display at 5 o’clock, with tens on the upper cone and units on the lower cone
MEMO function between 3 and 4 o’clock: cone shape adorned with a sapphire serving to remind the wearer of a commitment
Stepped and skeletonized Charles X style bridges
26 interior angles
Grade 5 titanium
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 16.06 mm
Crown: Stainless steel
Water resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)
Black chrome-plated and blue anodized aluminum, with Super-Luminova®
Limited series: 17
Price excluding tax in Swiss francs: CHF 72,000.-