Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R-001

To create this Aquanaut Luce traveller’s watch for women, Patek Philippe drew inspiration from the manufacture’s ingenious Travel Time dual-time-zone mechanism.

This exclusive system is already a feature of the men’s Aquanaut Reference 5164, where two push-pieces on the left flank of the case set the local time. But to retain all the elegance and finesse that women love in the Aquanaut Luce, the manufacture reinterpreted this useful, user-friendly function to incorporate two innovations: a new quartz movement with a dual-time-zone function, caliber E 23-250 S FUS 24H, and a discreet, practical setting system via the winding crown.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

This device required that the electronic movement be fitted with a dual time-zone mechanism similar to those that equip all Patek Philippe’s World Time and Travel Time watches, but controlled here by the clutch-pinion that activates hand-setting, rather than by pushers. The new quartz caliber is finished with same meticulous care as the manufacture’s mechanical movements.

The new Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R has two central hour hands – a skeletonized hand for home time and a solid hand for local time. When its owner changes time zones, the hour hand for local time may be set forwards or backwards by increments of one hour using the crown pulled out to the intermediate position, without this affecting the rate accuracy of the movement.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

During the time spent abroad, the skeletonized hand will continue to display home time, coupled with the day/night indicator at 6 o’clock. The Travel Time’s dual-time-zone system can also be used to display the time in another longitude.

When the watch’s owner remains at home or no longer needs a second time zone, the two hour hands can be superposed to become a single hand, using the winding crown. In this way, the Aquanaut Luce Travel Time offers two watches in one: a casually elegant model for all occasions, transformable in an instant into a dual-time-zone watch for those who travel and communicate far and wide.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

The rose-gold 38.8 mm case, equipped with a non-screw-down crown (to make using the Travel Time function practical and unobtrusive) is water-resistant to 60 m. Its contrasting polished and satin-brushed finishes complement a matt-white dial and a matching strap. The Aquanaut Luce’s chic, sporty personality gains extra sparkle from a bezel edged with a polished bevel and set with 48 Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~1.11 ct).

The dial presents an embossed Aquanaut motif beneath rose-gold applied numerals and rose-gold baton-style hands, the solid hands with a luminescent coating. The integrated white composite-material strap has a patented fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches.

Technical details

Model: Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Reference 5269/200R-001

Movement
Caliber E 23-250 S FUS 24H quartz movement with sweep seconds, dual time zones (local time and home time) and a day/night indicator linked to home time
Diameter: 23.9 mm
Height: 2.95 mm
Number of parts: 96
Number of jewels: 9
Quartz frequency: 32 768 Hz
Power source: Silver oxide battery 1.55 V
Battery life: Approximately 3 years

Displays
By hands: local time (solid hand), home time (skeletonized hand), minutes and sweep seconds
By aperture: day/night indicator at 6 o’clock

Crown functions
Three-positions crown:
• Pushed in: normal operation
• Pulled out half way: correcting the local time by increments of one hour backwards or forwards
• Pulled out all the way: stopping the movement and setting the time

Case
18K rose gold
Bezel set with 48 brilliant-cut Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~1.11 ct)
Water-resistant to 60 m (6 bars)
Diameter (10–4 o’clock): 38.8 mm
Width (9–3 o’clock with crown): 40.9 mm
Length (across lugs): 45.4 mm
Height: 8.77 mm
Width between lugs: 19.03 mm

Dial
Brass, with Aquanaut motif embossed and varnished in matt white
Applied Arabic numerals in 18K rose gold
Baton-style local hour hand and minute hand in 18K rose gold with Superluminova® luminescent coating
Skeletonized baton-style home hour hand in 18K rose gold
Arrow-style seconds hand with counterpoise in Pfinodal, gilded with rose gold

Strap
Composite material ultra-resistant to water, ultraviolet radiation and wear, with raised checkerboard pattern in matt white
Patented fold-over clasp in 18K rose-gold, secured by four independent catches