Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Automatic Reference 5268/200R-001

Patek Philippe presents a new Aquanaut Luce automatic watch with a larger diameter case and a new integrated matt-white strap.

The Aquanaut Luce with a self-winding mechanical movement was launched in 2010 by a rose-gold model with a chocolate brown dial and strap (5068R-001), joined in 2013 by a version in white (5068R-010).  The new model released in 2021 features a 38.8 mm diameter (up from the previous 35.6 mm) case on an integrated strap that continues the visual harmony of the design.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Automatic Reference 5268/200R-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

The rose-gold case, water-resistant to 120 m, contrasts the polished finish on its flat surfaces with a satin-brushed finish on the flanks. The emblematic rounded octagonal bezel has a polished beveled edge and sparkles with 48 Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~1.11 ct) set with textbook precision.

A dial in matt white with the embossed Aquanaut motif forms a luxurious backdrop to rose-gold applied Arabic numerals and rose-gold baton-style hour and minute hands with a luminescent coating. A slender rose-gilt sweep-seconds hand completes the time display, while the date appears in an aperture at 3 o’clock.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Automatic Reference 5268/200R-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

This sporty, elegant timepiece is powered by the caliber 26-330 S C self-winding movement. Introduced in 2019, this caliber is endowed with a number of technical innovations and optimizations (two of which are patented) relating particularly to the winding system.

The presence of a stop-seconds device, which stops the balance when the crown is pulled out, enables the user to set the time to the second. A sapphire-crystal back reveals the movement’s architecture and flawless hand-finish.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Automatic Reference 5268/200R-001
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

The watch is worn on an integrated matt-white strap made of an ultra-resistant composite material with a patented fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches. The new Aquanaut Luce Reference 5268/200R-001 replaces the two previous 5068 references in the collection.

Technical details

Model: Aquanaut Luce automatic in rose gold, Reference 5268/200R-001

Movement
Caliber 26-330 S C
Self-winding mechanical movement with sweep seconds and with date in an aperture
Diameter: 27 mm
Height: 3.3 mm
Number of parts: 212
Number of jewels: 30
Power reserve: Min. 35 hours / max. 45 hours
Winding rotor: Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Frequency: 28 800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance: Gyromax®
Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)
Balance spring stud: Adjustable

Displays
By hands: hours, minutes and sweep seconds
By aperture: date at 3 o’clock

Crown functions
Three-positions crown:
• Unscrewed: manual winding
• Pulled out half way: correcting the date
• Pulled out all the way: setting the time
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Case
18K rose gold
Bezel set with 48 brilliant-cut Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (~1.11 ct)
Screw-down crown
Water-resistant to 120 m (12 bars)
Case dimensions: Diameter (10–4 o’clock): 38.8 mm
Width (9 –3 o’clock with crown): 40.95 mm
Length (across lugs): 45.4 mm
Height: 8.5 mm
Width between lugs: 19.03 mm

Dial
Brass with Aquanaut pattern embossed and varnished in matt white
Applied Arabic numerals in 18K rose gold
Baton-style hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold with Superluminova® luminescent coating
Arrow-style seconds hand with counterpoise in Pfinodal, gilded with rose gold

Strap
Composite material ultra-resistant to water, ultraviolet radiation and wear, with raised checkerboard pattern in matt white
Patented fold-over clasp in 18K rose gold, secured by four independent catches