Patek Philippe Ref. 5304/301R-001 Minute Repeater with a Retrograde Perpetual Calendar

Adorned with 80 baguette diamonds, this new rose-gold version of the Patek Philippe Minute Repeater and Retrograde Perpetual Calendar watch belongs to the Geneva Maison’s “Rare Handcrafts” series. This new grand complication watch features a transparent sapphire crystal dial, allowing the wearer to admire the movement from the front side of the watch.

The first Patek Philippe grand complication with a transparent sapphire-crystal dial was launched as the Ref. 5104 in 2006; it had a platinum case with rose-gold intarsias. From 2014 to 2018, it was followed by the Ref. 5304 in rose gold with white-gold intarsias. Now, Patek Philippe has released a new haute joaillerie version in rose gold. Its bezel, lugs, and fold-over clasp sparkle with the fire of 80 flawless Top Wesselton baguette diamonds (~6.22 ct).

Patek Philippe Ref. 5304-301R-001 Minute Repeater with a Retrograde Perpetual Calendar
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

For this timepiece, Patek Philippe developed an ingenious system for displaying the day, month, and leap year cycle with transparent sapphire-crystal disks in which the respective displays stand out in white against the black background of the small apertures beneath them. To attach the extremely thin sapphire-crystal disks to their minuscule steel arbors, it was necessary to develop an exclusive, patented assembly process.

The pierced leaf-shaped hands in black-lacquered white gold also enhance the view of the movement and its steel parts with beveled and polished edges that stand out beautifully against the rose gilt plates decorated with perlage. The flyback date display features a hand with a crescent moon tip that marks the numerals on a scale at the outermost edge of the dial. The perpetual calendar is complemented with a moon-phase display at 6 o’clock and a subsidiary seconds dial.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5304-301R-001 Minute Repeater with a Retrograde Perpetual Calendar
Image Credit: Patek Philippe SA

To further refine the appeal of this timepiece, Patek Philippe integrated delicate white-gold inlays with engraved leaf motifs in the case flanks and the repeater slide.

The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the magnificent views of the self-winding caliber R 27 PS QR LU movement, especially the minute repeater mechanism with two gongs or the centrifugal governor beneath the pierced Calatrava cross motif. The recessed off-center minirotor in rose gold is decorated with a leaf motif and rhodiumed sinks.

Technical details

Movement
Caliber R 27 PS QR LU
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 28 mm
Height: 7.23 mm
Parts: 517
Bridges: 12
Jewels: 41
Power reserve: min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
22K gold off-center mini-rotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Vibrations/hour: 21 600 (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal

Functions
Minute repeater with classic gongs
Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand
Day, month and leap year in apertures
Moon phases by hand
Small seconds

Dial
Transparent sapphire, date and minute markers printed in white with golden powdered dots

Case
Rose gold
Sapphire crystal case back
Humidity- and dust-protected only (not water-resistant)
Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 13.3 mm
Gem-setting: 58 baguette diamonds: ~5.25 cts. (bezel and lugs). 22 baguette diamonds: ~0.97 ct. (clasp). Total of 80 baguette diamonds: ~6.22 cts.

Strap
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny black
Diamond-set fold-over clasp

About Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021 Collection

On the occasion of the “Rare Handcrafts 2020-2021” exhibition in June 2021, Patek Philippe launched six exceptional wristwatches featuring artistic decorations such as manual engraving, grand feu cloisonné enamel, grand feu champlevé enamel, grand feu flinqué enamel, manual guilloching and gemsetting.

Models