After winning the Ladies’ Complication category at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2020, Swiss luxury watch brand Charles Girardier now expands its 1809 collection by introducing a new gent’s wristwatch.
Charles Girardier 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm, the first men’s version of the Mysterious Signature (Signature Mystérieuse) flying tourbillon, highlights most sophisticated craftsmanship techniques.
This masculine yet elegant watch with a refined style combines a grand feu enamel dial with a complex mechanical movement, itself combined with a miniature automaton: The initials C and G at 12 o’clock, animated by the Mysterious Signature, visually counterbalance the tourbillon at 6, always in motion and according to their own rhythm.
Blending history, watchmaking and exceptional artisanship, the 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 watch has a 41 mm diameter white gold case. It has a total thickness of 12.2 mm. The polished gadroons and satin-finished flanks create a contrast of textures that emphasizes its profile.
Following through on the curves of the case middle, the lugs are also satin-finished. The choice of 18K white gold for the whole, including the faceted dauphine hands, polished tourbillon cage and applied indices magically complements the cobalt blue of the grand feu enamel dial.
The dial of the 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm is made of cobalt blue grand feu enamel. The making of the dial begins with a base plate of solid gold, a material suitable for the finest enamels. It is shaped to accommodate the tourbillon at 6 o’clock and the Signature Mystérieuse at 12.
The balance of the surface is engraved with an exclusive chevron pattern. Then the painstaking process of applying the enamel begins. After each layer of enamel is applied, the enameller slides the dial into a kiln heated to no less than 800 degrees Celsius, so the enamel paste may vitrify. The operation is repeated a total of eight times. The final glaze is translucent. This layer of enamel is called the fondant. Its density and smooth texture create a dramatic impression of brilliance and depth.
The Charles Girardier 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm watch is equipped with the CG Calibre 1809. On the dial side, this movement boasts a flying tourbillon.
The sapphire crystal back of the 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm reveals its sophisticated haute horlogerie movement. Its substantial bridge, made of one piece, takes up almost two-thirds of the visible area. This is a legacy of the 18th century Charles Girardier movement design, adopted by the brand today with equally unusual finishes.
Instead of the traditional Côtes de Genève or satin finish, today’s Charles Girardier opts for a grenage, an entirely manual frosting technique that creates a matte surface by applying a silver powder with a brush. The other visible bridges, and in particular the one that holds the tourbillon from below, also show this graining.
The caseback side offers an unobstructed view of the movement’s rear side. That is because the CG Calibre 1809’s self-winding mechanism does without a central rotor. Indeed, the latter would hide mechanism. Winding is carried out by a ring-shaped mass, which circles the movement’s periphery and the height of which is the movement’s thickness.
The mechanism of the Signature Mystérieuse is based on a small oscillating weight, used not for winding but to power the automaton driving the initials C and G. This rotor lives in a setting of matte textures, polished bevels and blued screws.
One rotating component carries one initial, ‘half’ of the signature, while the other, the size of the minute hand and rotating independently, carries the second element. As the arm is set in motion, the two parts begin to rotate, occasionally aligning to reveal the secret of the mysterious signature. This system is the subject of a patent application.
This extra-ordinary movement was developed in partnership with Timeless Manufacture SA, a specialist of watchmaking components based in the Canton of Geneva. The CG Caliber 1809 is entirely manufactured in Switzerland.
Model: Charles Girardier 1809 Cobalt Blue 41 mm
Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon, ‘Mysterious Signature’
Calibre CG 1809/06, mechanical with automatic winding by bidirectional peripheral mass, single ball bearing, one minute flying tourbillon regulator
Jewels: 32 rubies
Diameter: 30.6 mm, 13 1/2”
Thickness: 8.43 mm
Power reserve: 46 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz / 28,800 vph
Decoration: Garneted bridges, horizontal satin-finished and polished tourbillon bridge, polished tourbillon cage set with diamonds, sunray-brushed peripheral mass, beveled plate and bridges, blued screws
Grand feu enamel, white gold base with engraved chevron motif, cobalt blue enamel
‘Mysterious Signature’ in white gold with rose motif
Applied hour markers in 18K white gold
18ct white gold dauphine hands
Material: White gold 18 K
Bezel: White gold, polished
Crown: White gold, etched and engraved
Diameter: 41 mm
Thickness: 12.2 mm
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective coating
Case back: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 meters/100 feet
Material: Blue ribbon woven on traditional Jacquard loom
Fasteners: Interchangeable, Presto system
Buckle: Folding clasp, 18 K white gold
5 years, first service free of charge
93,000 Euros (excl. VAT)