Swiss luxury watch brand Ferdinand Berthoud has created a unique timepiece for supporting the charity work of the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation in alliance with ART IN TIME watch gallery in Monaco.
With its black DLC-treated steel case, rubber strap, and vertical satin-finish black dial, the Chronomètre FB 1.6-3 exudes a sports feel at first sight. Its movement boasts angled sapphire half bridges, echoing the modernity of its housing. The unique piece has been exclusively designed for the ART IN TIME watch gallery in Monaco, with part of the proceeds from its sale passed on to charity.
For the first time, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has decked out one of its models in black DLC. This bold move is nevertheless consistent with developments to date: right from its inception, in addition to technical performance inspired by the values of Fine Watchmaking, the manufacture has sought to endow its timepieces with an unashamedly contemporary look.
The FB 1.6-3 explores this modern ethos – and pushes back its boundaries. It’s both sporty and daring, with the case, bezel, flange, dial, crown, and strap clad entirely in black. It’s also the first ever steel case in the FB 1 collection, making this model very much one of a kind.
In a first for the manufacture, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has applied an all-black DLC treatment to the fine sand-blasted steel. The crown is fitted with a ceramic insert; the screws fastening the case are in titanium.
The vertical satin-finish dial benefits from a semi-matte black galvanised treatment. The even-numbered hours, seconds hand, and power reserve are coloured red, standing out eloquently. The combination of dark black and bright red contributes to the sports feel of the piece, as well as making its indications effortless to read.
To complete the nod to ART IN TIME’s Monaco identity, the Chronomètre FB 1.6-3 features a white seconds scale and minute circle, thus echoing the House of Grimaldi’s two heraldic colours, red and white. In line with ART IN TIME’s tradition of unique pieces, part of the proceeds from the sale of the watch will be passed on to the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, dedicated to building a sustainable future.
The hour and minute counter is finely sand-blasted and treated with matte black gold. Its hour markers have been coated with Super-LumiNova. The hours and minutes hands and power reserve indicator are in gold, while the seconds hand is made of polished bronze.
In the FB 1.6-3, sapphire takes pride of place, both on the dial, for the flange, and also on the back, for the half bridges. The latter are finely angled, engraved, and coloured red, enclosing the tourbillon carriage and its central seconds hand.
Equipped with a fusee-and-chain transmission – the oldest and most complex solution for providing an escapement with constant force – the FB 1.6-3 guarantees Chronometer certified accuracy.
The manufacture movement can be admired through one of the side portholes in the octagonal case that has now become the style signature of this Ferdinand Berthoud collection. The case houses the FB-T.FC-2 calibre, the construction of which is unique in contemporary watchmaking.
With 15 bridges and 3 half bridges connected by vertical pillars, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has designed a movement that brings to mind eighteenth-century marine chronometers, with barrel and fusee suspended, as is the cone – on which a feeler rises and falls, indicating the power reserve.
Model: FB 1.6-3 Black DLC-treated Stainless Steel; Unique Piece
Mechanical manual winding Calibre FB-T.FC-2
Lines: 15 ¾
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz)
Power reserve: 53 hours
Tourbillon with fusee-and-chain (constant-force) transmission
Suspended fusée – differential winding system (PATENT)
Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system (PATENT)
Suspended power reserve – mobile cone system (PATENT)
Tourbillon with direct-drive seconds hand (PATENT)
Variable-inertia balance wheel featuring four rhodium-plated nickel silver inertia blocks
Balance spring with hand-crafted steel Phillips terminal curve
Swiss lever escapement
Three angled, engraved transparent sapphire half bridges, fitted on stylised titanium pillars
Hand finishes to the highest watchmaking standards
Number of movement components
Components 1119 (including chain)
Chain 790 components
Length of the chain: 285mm
Bridges: 18, including 3 in sapphire
Rotation 1 /minute
Tourbillon carriage: Ø 16.55 mm (titanium)
Tourbillon carriage assembled with 3 polished titanium pillars
Tourbillon carriage poised by 2 inertia blocks in 18-carat gold
Balance wheel: 12 mm in copper-beryllium
Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve
Case, dial and strap
Black DLC-treated octagonal stainless steel case with two transparent sapphire portholes
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 13 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 9 mm
Black DLC-treated stainless steel dynamometric crown (decoupling system) with black ceramic medallion
Black DLC-treated stainless steel screw-in case-back with glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Domed, arched sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides
Vertical satin-brushed dial with semi-matte black galvanised treatment
Angled open dial centre and power reserve indicator; black bevels
Off-centre hours and minutes sub-dial, sand-blasted, semi-matte black galvanised treatment, red Arabic numerals
Black translucent sapphire crystal seconds track
Power reserve indication engraved on base plate: “0_1/4_1/2_3/4_1”
Power reserve indicator: arrow pointing to the words “HAUT” and “BAS” (‘HIGH’ and ‘LOW’)
Inscription: “Chronomètre Val-de-Travers Suisse”
Facetted and open-worked dagger-type minutes hand in 18-carat white gold, coated with white luminous material (Super-LumiNova)
Red varnished 18-carat white gold arrow-shaped power reserve hand
Red varnished bronze central seconds hand
Rubber strap (115 x 75mm, 20mmbuckle) – Range of sizes available on request
Black DLC-treated 18-carat white gold pin buckle – Ceramised titanium, double-blade length-adjustable folding clasp available on request
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC