In this new Haute Horlogerie timepiece, H. Moser & Cie. blends the characteristics of two iconic creations from the brand: the Perpetual 1 and the Streamliner.
Introduced in 2005, the Perpetual 1 is a distinctly minimalist and understated perpetual calendar watch. Soon it has become as one of the Manufacture’s flagship products. Launched in 2020, the Streamliner collection represents another facet of the Manufacture’s identity.
In 2021, H. Moser & Cie. is innovating and revisiting the Perpetual 1 movement with its instantaneous date change function as a version featuring four central hands and a resolutely contemporary look. Not only that, the brand is making this timepiece part of its Streamliner collection to create the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar.
The hand-wound HMC 812 calibre has the same advantages as the HMC 341 calibre, to which a direct-drive central seconds hand has been added. Simple and inventive, the HMC 812 hand-wound movement uses the indices to indicate the months via a small red and white central hand.
It has a guaranteed power reserve of 168 hours, displayed at 10 o’clock on the dial via an indicator. At 4 o’clock, a window indicates the date, in large format, thanks to two superimposed discs which operate one after the other, from 1 to 15 then from 16 to 31.
Aligned on the crown, the date window is positioned at an unusual angle which required the numerals to be tilted to 26°. The date changes in a flash at midnight thanks to the “Flash Calendar” instantaneous date change mechanism, and it can be adjusted forwards or backwards at any time of day.
In constant pursuit of minimalism, the leap year indicator is located on the movement side. Visible via the sapphire case-back, the HMC 812 calibre features an ultra-contemporary finish with the traditional Moser double horizontals stripes and an anthracite grey PVD coating on the balance bridges, train wheels, barrel and escapement plate. The main plate is microblasted and features anthracite rhodium plating.
The Streamliner Perpetual Calendar has perfectly rounded curves, evoking the very first high-speed trains from the Twenties and Thirties whose name it adopts. This shaped watch is equipped with a steel cushion case measuring 42.3 mm in diameter and is water-resistant to 12 ATM. Its off-centre crown, adorned with an “M”, is positioned at 4 o’clock.
It is topped by a subtly domed Glassbox type sapphire crystal, echoed by the see-through case-back. These curves extend to the integrated steel bracelet, which is elegantly arced to follow the line of the wrist; the unique design of the links ensures that it sits perfectly on even the most slender of wrists. Highly complex in construction, this bracelet has extremely fluid lines, based on organic forms.
All the links are articulated and feature a gentle wave combining a vertical brushed finish with polished surfaces. The bezel has a sunray brushed finish; the case has alternating brushed and polished surfaces, with hollowed and satin-finished forms on the sides.
Around the edge of the brand’s signature fumé dial, the red and white outer minute track measures the movement of the central seconds hand. The seconds hand, the power reserve hand and the months hand are reminiscent of those on the dials of car dashboards or measuring instruments.
The manufacture has chosen three-dimensional curved hands to indicate the hours and minutes, formed of two sections and featuring inserts made from Globolight®, an innovative ceramic-based material which contains Super-LumiNova®.
Model: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar
Reference 6812-1200, steel model, fumé dial, integrated steel bracelet
Steel topped by a gently domed sapphire crystal
Diameter: 42.3 mm
Height without sapphire crystal: 11.0 mm
Screw-in crown at 4 o’clock adorned with an engraved “M”
Water-resistant to 12 ATM
Hand-wound HMC 812 Manufacture calibre
Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes
Height: 6.3 mm
Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h
Power reserve: minimum 168 hours
Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions
Modular interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann® hairspring
Gold escapement wheel and pallet fork
Screwed gold mounts
Balance bridge, train wheel bridge, barrel bridge, and escapement plate with anthracite PVD finish
Main plate, stop lever, and week wheel bridge with microblasted laser finish and anthracite rhodium plating
Hours and minutes
Direct-drive central seconds
Perpetual calendar with date and month
Big date at 4 o’clock, numerals tilted to 26°
Month indicator via red central hand
Power reserve indicator
Leap year cycle indicator on movement side
Black or fumé with sunburst pattern
H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer
Hour and minute hands with Globolight® inserts
Central seconds, power reserve hand and months hand with white decal
Minute track for seconds and minutes
Integrated steel bracelet
Folding clasp with three steel blades, engraved with the Moser logo