Only Watch Moritz Grossmann, Unique Piece for Only Watch 2021

The independent Glashütte manufactory Moritz Grossmann is supporting the ninth Only Watch benefit auction with a superbly crafted, unique timepiece. The auction will take place on 6 November 2021 in Geneva and the proceeds will be used to treat children suffering from muscular dystrophy and to advance research into the hereditary neuromuscular disease, which is currently considered incurable.

Moritz Grossmann is supporting the non-profit association for the third time and has again crafted a truly unique example of Glashütte watchmaking.

Meticulously crafted, the dial of this unique timepiece has an undeniably elegant appearance. It boasts a silver-plated by friction technique painstakingly finished by hand, a traditional art that ensures the time display can be read easily at all times and perfectly complements the distinctive appearance. Another splendid statement comes in the form of a solid gold balance cock, elegantly catching the eye in the highly finished movement.

Only a handful of skilled artisans still master the sophisticated art of silver plating by friction today. And is what makes dials with this surface finish so extraordinarily unique. This traditional finishing technique from the 19th century was used by the gifted Glashütte watchmaking pioneer Moritz Grossmann during his lifetime for example in his high-quality pendulum watches.

The dial of the ONLY WATCH MORITZ GROSSMANN has been friction silver-plated by master craftsmen and brought into the modern era in honour of the Only Watch 2021. Embellished with large Roman numerals, the dial of this unique timepiece also bears the original ‘M. Grossmann’ logo from 1875. Manually crafted lance-shaped hands in an annealed brown-violet hue are a nod to traditions of the past.

Silver-plating by friction is an exceptionally intricate form of finishing the dial, which creates a fine-grained yet velvety surface. It reflects the incident light without dazzling, ensuring that every minute detail of the dial can be read with ease. A whitish powder consisting of silver granules, salt and tartar, is rubbed onto a previously roughened and meticulously cleaned and degreased brass sheet using a little water and a small brush. All the engravings are filled with lacquer beforehand, and then fired in a kiln to avoid excessive silver build-up.

The surface is sanded to roughen it, which also removes any excess lacquer, so that only a deep black inlay remains in the engraved areas. As the silver powder does not adhere to the lacquer, the engravings and numerals are left out of the silver plating process, which means they retain their deep black colour and create an optimal contrast to the bright silver background.

The dial is finished with a protective coating to protect the high-quality silver-plating by friction from oxidation and other environmental influences in the decades and centuries to come.

The ONLY WATCH MORITZ GROSSMANN is powered by the calibre 100.1, which can be admired through a sapphire crystal back. The Grossmann balance appears in the curved plate cut-out and is borne by the cantilevered balance cock with fine micrometer screw.

To do proper justice to the special occasion, the balance cock is made of solid gold. True to the finest Glashütte tradition, the piece is decorated with tiny floral motifs executed by master craftsmen.

The hand-wound movement gleams in the manufactory’s luxurious High Artistic finish. The 2/3 plate is accentuated by the typical broad, horizontal Glashütte ribbing. Raised gold chatons and pan-head chaton screws are a testament to the high quality and underline the filigree architecture of the movement. Fascinating reflections of light are created by the extraordinary depth of the contours and is the result of chamfers on drive wheels and edges of levers polished by master hands.

The ONLY WATCH MORITZ GROSSMANN comes in a polished stainless steel case with a hand-stitched strap made of black kudu leather.

Technical details

Reference: MG-003172

Manufactory calibre 100.1, manual winding, regulated in five positions
No. of parts 198
Jewels 20 jewels, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
Balance Cock Cantilevered balance cock in solid gold 750/000
Escapement Lever escapement
Oscillator Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve, Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
Balance Diameter: 14.2 mm, frequency: 18,000 semi-oscillations/hour
Power reserve 42 hours when fully wound

Hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop second, Grossmann manual winder with pusher
Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 5.0 mm

Three-part, Stainless steel
Diameter: 41.0 mm
Height: 11.35 mm
Crystal/display back: Sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on one side

Operating elements
Crowns in stainless steel to wind the watch and set the time, pusher in stainless steel to start the movement

Silver-plated by friction, engraved numerals, with black finish
Hands: Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a brown-violet hue

Hand-stitched kudu leather with prong buckle in stainless steel

Special features
Grossmann balance; hand setting override and start of movement with lateral pusher; space-saving modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash; adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock in solid gold 750/000; movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver; 2/3 plate, balance cock and escape-wheel cock hand-engraved; broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing; 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; separately removable clutch winding mechanism; stop seconds for hand setting