Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds

On the joyous occasion of Eid in 2021, Parmigiani Fleurier released three new gem-set variations of its award-winning Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar. Diamonds, rubies and emeralds — these three gemstones were deliberately chosen to represent the national colours of countries in the Middle East.

One and a half Gregorian years after launching the Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar, Parmigiani Fleurier revisits its groundbreaking world premiere in a limited series of three gem-set models. In line with the intention of the original Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar to respect the Muslim community’s adherence to dress codes that counsel men against wearing gold ornaments, the three new Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar models are housed in platinum cases, and gold is not used for any of the movement components.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds

The new models come in cases set either with diamonds, rubies or emeralds, with the exact shade of rubies and emeralds selected specifically to pay tribute to the national colors of the countries in the Middle East region. Each gem-set variation of the Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar is limited to 10 pieces only, a true horological exclusivity.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds

When it debuted in Rabi Al-Akhar, the fourth month of the Islamic calendar, in the Hijri year 1441, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar was the first wristwatch to feature its unique eponymous complication. Perpetual calendars are sophisticated watch mechanisms that can keep track of various calendrical irregularities such as the fluctuating number of days in a month, displaying the date accurately despite these irregularities.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds

Traditionally considered one of the most prestigious watchmaking complications and featuring among the three horological functions that constitute a Grande Complication, the perpetual calendar is almost without exception configured to represent the Gregorian system.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds
Creating the automatic in-house PF009 caliber of the Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar was therefore a drastic departure from watchmaking convention. It required a completely reworked calendar mechanism that was only possible to develop through the extensive experience and skill of master watchmaker, restorer, historian and brand founder Michel Parmigiani.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds

The basis of the PF009 calibre was drawn from a Parmigiani Fleurier table clock launched in 2011, which was itself based on an antique pocket watch with an Arabic calendar display that was personally restored by Michel Parmigiani.

The three new gem-set variations of the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar balance exuberance with sobriety. The appreciation of geometric design and a mathematically abstract approach to beauty is deeply embedded in the aesthetics of Arabic culture.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds

This is reflected in the presentation of the gems, which utilize the rectilinear baguette cut, emphasizing clarity and structure. Because the baguette cut imparts comparatively less sparkle, or “fire”, than a round brilliant cut, it is imperative that all the gems used in the Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar are as internally flawless as possible and are consistent in hue.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Rubies

Other design elements that pay tribute to the Arab world include two shaped bridges of the movement, resembling the waxing and waning moon, the date bridge in the form of the Arabic symbol known as the Rub el Hizb, and the Arabesque form of the calendar levers.

The dial indications are in Arabic script, and the numbers are expressed in the Indo-Arabic numerals commonly used in the region. The guillochage decorating the winding rotor of the PF009 calibre is a signature of Parmigiani Fleurier, and is conventionally referred to as grain d’orge, or barleycorn, but its rippling wave-like pattern across the noble platinum surface of the rotor echoes another precious commodity in the arid landscapes of the Middle East — water.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Rubies

Every calendar system is different. The Gregorian calendar is a solar calendar, with 12 months of mostly 30 or 31 days (with the exception of February) calculated to fit within the tropical year of 365 days. The Chinese and Hebrew calendars are luni-solar calendars that use 12 lunar months of 29 to 30 days, inserting intercalary months at various intervals in order to stay synchronized within a few weeks of the tropical year.

The Hijri calendar operates purely on a lunar system of time reckoning, with 12 months of 29 or 30 days, but with no attempt to reconcile this system with the tropical year.

Because of this, the Hijri calendar year is consistently shorter than the Gregorian year by 10 to 11 days per cycle, resulting in months that have no fixed relationship with the seasons from one year to the next. The advantage of this system, however, is its extreme regularity when compared to the other calendar systems.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds
In the standardized Hijri calendar, months alternate between 29 and 30 days, with a base year of 354 days, known as a common year. This approximates the lunar cycle to 29.5 days, which is extremely close to the actual lunar cycle of 29.53 days.

Because of this discrepancy of 0.03 days in the calculation of the lunar cycle, occasionally there are years with an additional day — 355 instead of 354 — to make up the shortfall. These years are known as abundant years, and in each Hijri 30-year cycle, there are 19 common years and 11 abundant years.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Emeralds

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar takes all this into account, with its innovative mechanism developed entirely in-house as a result of Michel Parmigiani’s work with an antique Arabic calendar pocket watch.

The counter at 12 o’clock displays the 30-year cycle, with abundant years indicated in sand-colored script. The counter at 3 o’clock displays, using a hand, the month of the Islamic calendar, with the holy month of Ramadan indicated in red script. At 6 o’clock, an aventurine moon disc with polished moons shows the phase of the moon in the Northern Hemisphere.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Emeralds

Finally, the counter at 9 o’clock displays the date, with a circular aperture revealing a white marker if the month has 29 days and a sand-colored marker if the month has 30 days.

Technical details

Movement
Caliber PF009, Hijri Perpetual Calendar, Moonphase Indicator
Power reserve: ~48 hours, automatic bi-directional winding
Frequency: 28,800 Vph (4 Hz)
Balance wheel: variable inertia
No. of jewels: 32
No. of components: 310
Diameter: 33.8 mm
Thickness: 5.7 mm
Decoration: Côtes de Genève and snailed, bevelled bridges
Oscillating weight: platinum, Grain d’Orgeguilloché

Functions
Hijri perpetual calendar, moon phase

Model: Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds
Ref: PFH980-2010111-HA1481

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Diamonds

Case
Polished platinum set with 84 baguette-cut diamonds – 7.19 cts
Diameter: 44.60 mm
Thickness: 14.09 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm, 1 diamond ~0.2 ct
Glass: anti reflective sapphire
Case back: sapphire glass
Engraving on case back: Hijri Perpetual Calendar, individual number X/10
Water resistance: 30 m

Dial
Color: slate
Finishing: sunray
Indices: hand-applied rhodium-plated
Moonphase: blue aventurine
Hands: Rhodium plated skeleton delta-shaped

Strap
Hermès® black alligator strap with platinum ardillon buckle

Recommended selling price
132,000 CHF

Model: Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Emeralds
Ref: PFH980-2010112-HA1481

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Emeralds

Case
Polished platinum set with 84 baguette-cut emeralds̴ 4.78cts
Diameter: 44.60 mm
Thickness: 14.09 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm, 1 emerald ̴ 0.16ct
Glass: anti-reflective sapphire
Case back: sapphire glass
Engraving on case back: Hijri Perpetual Calendar, individual number X/10
Water resistance: 30 m

Dial
Color: slate
Finishing: sunray
Indices: hand-applied rhodium-plated
Moonphase: blue aventurine

Hands
Rhodium plated skeleton delta-shaped

Strap/bracelet
Hermès® black alligator strap with platinum ardillon buckle

Recommended selling price
152,000 CHF

Model: Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Rubies
Ref: PFH980-2010113-HA1481

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar Rubies

Case
Polished platinum set with 84 baguette-cut rubies – 6.66 cts
Diameter: 44.60 mm
Thickness: 14.09 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm, 1 ruby~ 0.22 ct
Glass: anti reflective sapphire
Case back: sapphire glass
Engraving on case back: Hijri Perpetual Calendar, individual number X/10
Water resistance: 30 m

Dial
Color: slate
Finishing: sunray
Indices: hand-applied rhodium-plated
Moonphase: blue aventurine
Hands: Rhodium plated skeleton delta-shaped

Strap
Hermès® black alligator strap with platinum ardillon buckle

Recommended selling price
132,000 CHF