Moritz Grossmann Limited Edition HAMATIC Vintage and Benu TOURBILLON Models with Gold Hands

German watch manufacture Moritz Grossmann unveils two new models, the HAMATIC VINTAGE and the TOURBILLON, both featuring handcrafted 750/000 rose gold hands for the first time. Framed by a rose gold case, the exquisite dials of the two models come in a deep black and beautifully accentuate the fine gold hands.

Moritz Grossmann Limited Edition HAMATIC Vintage and Benu TOURBILLON Models with Gold Hands

The HAMATIC Vintage with Rose Gold Lance Hands

Limited to eight pieces worldwide, the special edition HAMATIC Vintage features a ‘black-or’ dial with long, slender index hands in solid gold. The delicate tip of these hands lends a charming touch to the time display.

Moritz Grossmann HAMATIC Vintage with Rose Gold Lance Hands

An elaborate manual process is used to create the exceptionally exquisite ‘black-or’ dial of the HAMATIC Vintage. Several layers of anthracite lacquer are applied to a base of precious German silver and polished until a subtle, gleaming, mirror-like surface emerges. The final touch involves a transparent layer to fix the expressive ‘black or’ dial in place.

Moritz Grossmann HAMATIC Vintage with Rose Gold Lance Hands

The HAMATIC vintage represents a new interpretation of the self-winding hammer mechanism. This self-winding three-hand watch is not powered by a rotor, as is usually the case. Instead, a small pendulum in the shape of a hammer with a heavy gold hammer head takes on this essential role; the pendulum is constantly deflected by the movement of the wearer’s arm. This kinetic energy is transferred via the ratchet wheel to the mainspring in the barrel and winds the watch.

Moritz Grossmann HAMATIC Vintage with Rose Gold Lance Hands

Inspired by models from the 19th century, the advantages of this powerful mechanism lie not only in the high torque and resultant optimisation of energy, but also in the open design, most notably the oval hammer body, which gives a fascinating view right into the very depths of the movement.  All parts of the Calibre 106.0 are exquisitely finished in typical Grossmann fashion.

Moritz Grossmann HAMATIC Vintage with Rose Gold Lance Hands

The TOURBILLON with Rose-Gold Rhombus Hands

This new eight-piece limited edition of the Grossmann TOURBILLON also boasts hands made of 750/000 rose gold. Shaped like an elongated rhombus and ending in a wafer-thin tip, the hands have the instrumental character that is the hallmark of the manufactory. Combined with the dark tone of the jet-black solid silver dial on which the hands rotate, the result is one of profound elegance.

Moritz Grossmann TOURBILLON with Rose-Gold Rhombus Hands

The tourbillon has been a symbol of the finest watchmaking craftsmanship since the 18th century. The Moritz Grossmann manufactory presented its first hand-wound movement with the tourbillon in 2013, making its début in the BENU line.

Moritz Grossmann TOURBILLON with Rose-Gold Rhombus Hands

The calibre 103.0 is an outstanding example of Glashütte’s contemporary interpretation of precision watchmaking. It boasts a long list of technical and aesthetic refinements, some of which have been patented. Most notable, however, is Grossmann’s spectacular three-minute tourbillon, which cannot fail to catch the eye at six o’clock. Taking its cue from Alfred Helwig, the flying tourbillon cage with v-shaped balance bridge is unusually large and reveals many fascinating details and ways in which they interact.

Moritz Grossmann TOURBILLON with Rose-Gold Rhombus Hands

In line with Grossmann’s philosophy, the precision of a tourbillon also requires a stop-second. The intricate design of the cage with just two triangular posts paves the way for this additional complication. To halt the balance smoothly, the stop device must move past the triangular frame posts. It accomplishes this with the aid of an elastic brush made from human hair, which provides the most gentle and reliable solution.

Moritz Grossmann TOURBILLON with Rose-Gold Rhombus Hands

This masterpiece of precision mechanics consists of 59 exquisitely crafted components and rotates counter-clockwise once every three minutes. Moritz Grossmann has used a creative trick to get around the dilemma posed by the mechanism covering the space for the minute display between 25 and 35 in the lower part of the dial: this time span is mirrored in a scale below the twelve and swept by the extension of the central minute hand. The width of the wafer-thin tips is calculated with the utmost accuracy, allowing the time to be read with precision.

Limited to eight pieces worldwide, both models come with a hand-sewn black alligator leather strap. The new models together with the entire collection are now available in the new Moritz Grossmann Online Boutique.

Technical details

HAMATIC Vintage Golden Hands, Reference: MG-003079

Moritz Grossmann HAMATIC Vintage with Rose Gold Lance Hands

Movement
Manufactory calibre 106.0, automatic winding, regulated in five positions
Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 5.15 mm
No. of parts: 312
Jewels: 38, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring
Balance diameter: 10.0 mm
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations/hour
Power reserve: 72 hours when fully wound

Functions
Hour and minute, small second with stop seconds

Operating elements
Crown in 750/000 gold for winding the watch and setting the time

Case
Three-part, in 750/000 gold
Diameter: 41.0 mm
Height: 11.35 mm
Crystal/display back: Sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on one side

Dial
‘Black-or’ shiny black, white Roman numerals
Hands: Handcrafted from 750/000 gold, polished

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in 750/000 gold

Special features
Grossmann balance; click pawl in reduction gear
Adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock
Pillar movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver, hand-engraved 2/3 plate and cantilevered balance cock
Wide, horizontal Glashütte ribbing, double-band snailing on the mainspring barrel
Raised gold chatons with pan-head screws
Separately removable clutch winding mechanism
Stop seconds for hand setting
Automatic winding with oscillating hammer, bidirectional click wheels
Idler with pawl clicks, manual yoke winder

Edition
Limited edition of 8 watches

TOURBILLON Gold Hands, Reference: MG-003077

Moritz Grossmann TOURBILLON with Rose-Gold Rhombus Hands

Movement
Manufactory calibre 103.0, manual winding, regulated in five positions
Diameter: 38.4 mm, height: 7.1 mm
No. of parts: 245 (wheel train 186 / cage 59)
Jewels: 30 jewels, of which 4 in screwed gold chatons (drive train 17, cage 13)
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Grossmann three-minute tourbillon with stop seconds, shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, suspended Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 terminal curve, Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
Cage diameter: 16.0 mm
Cage speed: 1 revolution in three minutes, counter-clockwise on the dial side
Balance diameter: 14.2 mm
Frequency: 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve: 72 hours when fully wound

Functions
Sweep minutes, off-center hours and seconds, subsidiary seconds with stop second, Grossmann manual winder with pusher

Operating elements
Crown in 750/000 gold to wind the watch and set the time, pusher in 750/000 gold to start the watch

Case
Three-part, in 750/000 gold
Diameter: 44.5 mm
Height: 13.9 mm
Crystal/display back: Sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on one side

Dial
Solid silver, three-parts, black with Arabic numerals
Hands: Manually crafted from 750/000 gold, polished

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with solid butterfly clasp in 750/000 gold

Special features
Flying three-minute tourbillon with screw-secured driving wheel and V-shaped balance bridge (design patent pending)
Sweep minutes, off-centre hours and seconds with stop seconds
Replacement of the missing minute scale segment from 25 to 35 minutes with a separate scale swept by the extension of the minute hand on the opposite side (patented)
Stop seconds at the balance wheel rim with a pivoting fine-hair brush (patented)
Asymmetric-arm lever escapement with counterweight and lever banking pin
Grossmann balance with suspended balance spring, adjustable with poising screws in the rim
Newly developed mainspring barrel jewel bearing
Brake ring on the fourth-wheel arbor made of very hard, oily guaiacum
ARCAP train wheels
Grossmann winder with pusher to deactivate the handsetting mode and start the movement
Modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash
Pillar movement with 2/3 plate and frame pillars in untreated German silver
Hand-engraved 2/3 plate and tourbillon cock
Broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing
3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel
Raised gold chatons with pan-head screws
White sapphire bearing jewels
Separately removable clutch winding mechanism

Edition
Limited edition of 8 watches