In a bid to strengthen ties with the original inspiration of its founder, the Manufacture Ferdinand Berthoud is introducing an evolved version of its business model.
The new model is based on the FB-T.FC-RS calibre, the Régulateur Squelette movement. For the first time, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has announced that the production of this movement will be strictly limited to 20 in all.
The FB-T.FC-RS calibre is the first skeleton movement produced by the Manufacture. This regulator-type chronometer movement with tourbillon and fusee-and-chain transmission is the result of comprehensive technical and aesthetic development and is inspired by Marine Clock No. 8, produced by the master-watchmaker in Paris in 1768. Through the opening visible at 2 o’clock, a large-diameter sapphire disc indicates the hours, while minutes are read off on the dial offset to 12 o’clock. The seconds are displayed on a flat sapphire inner bezel ring surrounding the dial.
The bridges have been entirely designed to ensure an admirable view of the choreography performed by the imposing tourbillon carriage appearing on the dial side. Many components feature black PVD coating, alternating with polished, matt, vertical satin-brushed and sandblasted finishes.
The tourbillon bridge visible on the dial side is in itself a tour de force, with its mirror-polished and chamfered surfaces, polished flanks, and sandblasted underside. The decoration alone of each movement thus requires dozens of different craftsmanship skills. Nearly a year of trials was needed to achieve this level of finishing, enabling the complexity of this new movement on the dial side to be fully admired for the first time.
The FB-T.FC-RS calibre features a pillar-type structure in which the barrel and the reverse fusee are both suspended and patented. This fusee-and-chain transmission mechanism is inspired by that of Ferdinand Berthoud’s marine chronometers. It ensures the distribution of energy by delivering «constant force» to the tourbillon with its direct-drive seconds. This novel construction is the third patent to be filed.
Finally, the fourth patent applies to the power reserve indicator. Visible on the case-back side, a suspended truncated cone moves up and down along an arbor connected to the barrel. A feeler spindle in the form of a mobile arm tipped with a watch jewel reflects the state of wind of the barrel thanks to its position on the cone. It transmits the information to the power-reserve hand on the dial side by means of flat levers and a spiral spring.
Like all Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud movements, the FB-T.FC-RS calibre is officially chronometer-certified and was submitted to the Fleuritest during its development phase.
The choice of watch exterior – from among the various combinations offered by Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud – will be left to the collector. Henceforth, the Manufacture will be offering two variations: the FB 1RS.6 with an octagonal case in carburised stainless steel and the FB 2RS.2 with a round case in 18-carat rose gold. This carburised steel has had its molecular structure reinforced, making its surface (1200 Vickers) extremely resistant to scratches and corrosion. The gold is of certified ethical origin.
This approach is in line with the quality-driven vision adopted since the start of the Manufacture in 2015. The two successive awards at the 2019 and 2020 editions of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in the «Chronometry» category have demonstrated the reliability and precision of its timepieces. Through this new initiative, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud thus confirms its desire to exceed collectors’ expectations by offering the unprecedented possibility of choosing the case shape.
Technical details
REF. FB 1RS.6 – Octagonal case in ultra-resistant carburised stainless steel, fitted with two portholes
Case
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 13.95 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 9 mm
Domed, arched sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides
Dynamometric crown (decoupling system) in carburised stainless steel
Dial
Open-worked regulator plate (dial) in vertical satin-brushed black PVD-treated nickel silver
Hours indication on sapphire disc at 2 o’clock
Open-worked, sandblasted and silver-toned minutes dial at 12 o’clock, with black Arabic numerals
Flat seconds inner bezel ring framing the sapphire dial
“0_1” grey-coloured power-reserve indication engraved on the regulator plate at 10 o’clock
Functions
Hours appearing on a disc at 2 o’clock
Pointer-type minute display at 12 o’clock
Central sweep-seconds hand
Power-reserve indication at 10 o’clock
Movement
Mechanical hand-wound Calibre FB-T.FC.RS
Diameter: 37.30 mm
Thickness: 9.89 mm
Jewels: 49
Frequency: 21 600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 53 hours
Components: 1,158 (including the chain)
Half-bridges: 18
Pillars: 6
Limited production (encompassing all types of case): 20 movements
Decorations
Balance-spring with hand-shaped Philips terminal curve (steel)
Open-worked and engraved black PVD-treated nickel silver semi-bridges, supported by polished stylised pillars
Hand-crafted finishes in keeping with the highest watchmaking standards
Strap
Hand-sewn leather strap (125 x 70 mm, boucle 20 mm)
Titanium double-blade length-adjustable folding clasp with carburised stainless steel
Certification
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC
REF. FB 2RS.2 – Round case in 18-carat rose gold, fitted with one porthole
Case
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 14.26 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 9 mm
Domed, arched sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides
18-carat rose gold dynamometric crown (decoupling system)
Dial
Open-worked regulator plate (dial) in vertical satin-brushed black PVD-treated nickel silver
Hours indication on sapphire disc at 2 o’clock
Open-worked, sandblasted and silver-toned minutes dial at 12 o’clock, with black Arabic numerals
Flat seconds inner bezel ring framing the sapphire dial
“0_1” grey-coloured power-reserve indication engraved on the regulator plate at 10 o’clock
Functions
Hours appearing on a disc at 2 o’clock, pointer-type minute display at 12 o’clock, central sweep-seconds hand and power-reserve indication at 10 o’clock
Movement
Mechanical hand-wound Calibre FB-T.FC.RS
Diameter: 37.30 mm
Thickness: 9.89 mm
Jewels: 49
Frequency: 21 600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 53 hours
Components: 1,158 (including the chain)
Half-bridges: 18
Pillars: 6
Limited production (encompassing all types of case): 20 movements
Decorations
Balance-spring with hand-shaped Philips terminal curve (steel)
Open-worked and engraved black PVD-treated nickel silver semi-bridges, supported by polished stylised pillars
Hand-crafted finishes in keeping with the highest watchmaking standards
Strap
Hand-sewn leather strap (125 x 70 mm, boucle 20 mm)
18-carat rose gold double-blade length-adjustable folding clasp
Certification
Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC
