British watch maker Garrick presents S4, a new entry-level watch with a sumptuous dial that employs an elaborate and highly innovative construction technique. Despite its impressive in-house content and high-quotient of hand-craftsmanship, this new mechanical timepiece remains surprisingly affordable.
Since its inception, Garrick has always tried to make many of its watch components in-house and by hand. Every Garrick timepiece is built to order by watchmakers Craig Baird and Simon Michlmayr.
In recent years, the brand has shown its in-house watchmaking expertise again and again, releasing several refined timepieces. Some of these models are equipped with the firm’s exclusive movements, feature skeleton or guilloché dials and all are enriched with high-end finishing.
Whereas the mass-produced approach is to stamp a dial blank from a ribbon of brass, Garrick uses a lathe to create a brass disc. Two feet are riveted to the underside of the dial blank which ultimately unites the dial with the movement. The dial blank is ‘flattened’ using fine abrasive paper in order to remove any burrs or imperfections, creating a smooth surface. Thereafter, the dial is bead blasted. A chapter ring, effectively a circlet of metal, is paired with a smaller ring for the small seconds. These are then drilled, creating holes to facilitate fixing.
The chapter ring is clamped between two plates and baked at 300°C. This hardens the metal and removes any springiness. After the chapter ring has cooled, it is ‘spun’ on a lathe, creating a motif termed ‘satiné circulaire’. Furthermore, the hour track and minute track are delineated from one another with an engraved pattern called ‘sauté piqué.
Laser engraving is used to impart Roman numerals to the chapter ring. The resultant recesses are then inked by hand using a special syringe pen. Once the ink has dried, the chapter ring is cleaned and spun again to remove any excess ink.
Upholding fine watchmaking practise, the Maritime hour and minute hands are heat-blued and the collet sat atop these hands is hand-polished to a brilliant conclusion. The central area of the dial is frosted, while the small seconds display is suffused with an intricate hand-guilloché motif, executed on a traditional rose-engine lathe. Alternatively, the central dial area can be specified with a contrasting guilloché pattern.
The British-made case, measuring 42mm in diameter, is made from 904L stainless. This particular grade of steel provides superior scratch resistance to the ubiquitous 316L grade as well as exhibiting a notably brilliant gleam. Alternatively, the Garrick S4 can be specified with an 18-carat gold case.
Garrick S4 is equipped with a modified hand-wound ETA movement. It is rhodium-plated, features an engraved barrel and crown wheel cover. Inspired by old English pocket watches, the frosted movement is equipped with a three-quarter plate and also includes a screwed balance. After the movement is tested, it is regulated, delivering a daily variance of +3 seconds.
The watch is available with a choice of straps, including handmade alligator, calf leather or ostrich. The price of Garrick S4 starts at £4995.
904L Stainless Steel or Gold
10 mm Depth
Sapphire crystal with AR coating
Exhibition case back
Water Resistant to 100m
Hand frosted & rhodium-plated dial
Applied Breguet style chapter ring with ink-filled numerals
Hours, minutes and sub-seconds indications
Hands: Handmade steel, grained, polished or heat blued Hours, Minutes
Hand-wound calibre BF03 (modified 6498) with engraved barrel and crown wheel cover
Screwed balance – tested and regulated to ensure a daily variance of +3 seconds
Rhodium-plated and hand frosted surfaces
Handmade Alligator, calf leather, Buffalo and Ostric
316L Stainless Steel pin buckle
S4 Stainless Steel case with frosted dial: £4,995 including VAT
S4 Stainless Steel case with engine-turned dial: £5,995 including VAT
S4 Stainless Steel case with blue engine-turned dial: £6,995 including VAT
S4 Stainless Steel case with gold engine-turned dial: £6,995 including VAT
S4 18 Carat gold case with frosted dial: £10,995 including VAT
S4 18 Carat gold case with engine-turned dial: £11,495 including VAT