Taking inspiration from the ancient Mexican culture and traditions, the Independent Swiss luxury watch manufacture Christophe Claret has created two unique pieces of its X-TREM-1 watch.
The X-TREM-1 Azteca
The X-TREM-1 Azteca incorporates an iconic work of Aztec art in the form of the “Stone of the Sun” in relief, made of solid gold and entirely hand-engraved.
This unique piece is made with 5N red gold and black grade 5 PVD titanium. The sapphire tubes have been replaced by cylindrical ring-bound tubes housing mobile stainless steel spheres indicating the time.
The X-TREM-1 Calavera
Calavera is a unique celebration of remembering the departed. Held every year in November since ancient times, this emblematic celebration of Mexican culture inspired Christophe Claret for this new version of the X-TREM-1 watch. A fully diamonds set skull, with an octagonal emerald, pigeon’s blood ruby eyes and the tourbillon enhanced with an emerald, symbol of el dia de los muertos, takes place on this new X-TREM-1. The beads, indicating the time, have been revised in the colors of Mexico.
Driven as ever by a determination to present avant-garde timepieces, Christophe Claret has selected black grade 5 PVD titanium to make the case of this new version of the X-TREM-1. The sapphire tubes have been replaced by cylindrical ring-bound tubes housing mobile stainless steel spheres indicating the time.
About X-TREM-1 collection
The Extreme Complications Watches line expresses Christophe Claret’s determination to continue pushing the boundaries of mechanical watch making, integrating certain fields of research never previously applied in this domain. X-TREM-1 is a fine example of this approach that involves using a system driven by magnetic fields display the hours and minutes.
The challenge was bold and some might say a little crazy: How could someone possibly think about introducing a magnetic field – the arch enemy of horological mechanisms – into the heart of a watch?
The Christophe Claret team has done just that by creating a system where two small steel spheres – hollowed to make them lighter and encased within two tubes placed to the right and left of the caseband– are controlled by precision magnetic fields generated by two miniature magnets moved by cables.
The cables are incredibly flexible, made from hundreds of Dyneema nanofibers all contained within an ultra-high-strength polyethylene gel, capable of withstanding tensile forces of up to a kilo. The entire thread is thinner than a human hair. The resistance of the thread has been tested in the Manufacture Claret on an accelerated-wear simulator corresponding to60 years of operation.
The spheres have no mechanical connection with the movement, with each one floating inside the two tubes and creating outstanding horological magic. This technology was developed with the School of Business and Engineering Vaud (HEIG-VD) in Yverdon-les-Bains, and a team headed by Professor Besson.
The entire construction and finishing of this timepiece meets the extreme demands systematically imposed by Christophe Claret. Ultra-light titanium was used for the three-dimensional curvex main-plate and the bridges. The flying tourbillon is fitted with double ceramic bearings to enhance its shock-resistance. It is inclined at a 30-degree angle in order to make it even more clearly visible to the wearer.
The hand-wound watch draws its energy from two barrels enabling the use of a sophisticated display without disturbing the rate of the tourbillon, and thus the accuracy of the watch. The first barrel is reserved for the tourbillon, the second for the hours and minutes.
Caliber FLY11 – mechanical, hand-wound movement
Dimensions: 26.60 x 46.40 x 11.94 mm
Number of components: 419
Number of jewels: 64
Power reserve: 50+ hours
Barrels: Dual barrels: one for the movement gear train, one for the time indications
– Swiss lever
– Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
– Tourbillon rotates once every 60 seconds
– Flying tourbillon inclined at 30° supported by a double ceramic bearing, with cone-shaped pinion transmission
Mystery hours and minutes displayed with indications provided by hollowed steel spheres moving 23 mm inside two tubes. The metal spheres are driven by magnetic carriages following a thread.
Seconds displayed on the tourbillon cage
Movement state-of-wind indication
Fast time adjustment is via an integrated pusher on the caseband at 12 o’clock
Use of precisely-shaped magnetic fields in a mechanical movement
No mechanical connection between the indications and the movement
Winding and time-setting via lift-out rotating “bows” on caseback
Rectangular with curvex profile
Dimensions: 40.80 x 56.82 x 15 mm
Water resistance: 2 ATM / 20 m / 67 ft
Model: X-TREM-1 Azteca
5N red gold and black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium with gold numerals, white gold cylindrical ring-bound tubes
5N red gold Aztec Sun Stone, handmade
Spheres: Stainless steel
Price in Dollar (ex VAT): 326,000
Model: X-TREM-1 Calavera
White gold and black PVD-treated grade-5 titanium with white Super-LumiNova® numerals
Black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium cylindrical ring-bound tubes
White gold skull, eye in ruby, emerald and snow set diamonds
Tubes: 4 diamonds set
Spheres: Stainless steel, red-colored and green-colored
Lugs: White gold and snow set diamonds
Price in Dollar (ex VAT): 490,000.