Jaquet Droz, The Art Of Paillonné Enameling Limited Editions: The “Fleur de Lys” Grande Seconde Paillonnée and the “Fleur de Vie” Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée

This year, Jaquet Droz adds two new limited edition timepieces to its The Art of Paillonné Enameling watch family, which belongs to the brand’s Ateliers D’art Collection. In this new edition, Jaquet Droz welcomes two new motifs: Fleur de Lys and Fleur de Vie.

Joining this year to the Jaquet Droz Ateliers d’Art collection are two masterpieces: the “Fleur de Lys” Grande Seconde Paillonnée and the “Fleur de Vie” Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée.

Jaquet Droz, The Art Of Paillonné Enameling Limited Editions: The “Fleur de Lys” Grande Seconde Paillonnée and the “Fleur de Vie” Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée

What sets these two red gold timepieces apart is the art of paillonné enameling, an age-old decorative technique. The concept is based on another decorative art special to Jaquet Droz, the one used in the Grand Feu enamel dials. First, guilloché work is done on a gold dial. It is then covered in translucent colored enamel that lets the guilloché patterns shine through.

Next, several layers of enamel are applied, each one individually fired in the oven. Then comes the phase that demands the dexterity of Jaquet Droz artisans because every new layer of enamel and firing can introduce cracks or flaws, which would mean starting from scratch. At this stage, the piece still shows slight variations in color. It also depends on each firing process.

Jaquet Droz, The Art Of Paillonné Enameling Limited Editions: The “Fleur de Lys” Grande Seconde Paillonnée and the “Fleur de Vie” Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée

It isn’t until the next phase that dainty motifs cut from a thin gold leaf, the paillons (or strips), are placed by hand one by one to create a figure. Once the design is done, the figures are also covered with another layer of enamel and fired in the same oven. This translucent coat will protect the paillonné motif for centuries to come, as if freezing it in place for all eternity.

Each of these new pieces is extremely limited to a Numerus Clausus series of eight, and Jaquet Droz opted for two distinctive ornamental designs: Fleur de Lys and Fleur de Vie. The former symbolizes kings and emperors. Emblems of a very long heraldic tradition, fleurs de lys are still found from France to Missouri, by way of England, Finland, Germany and Spain.

Model: Grande Seconde Paillonnée “Fleur de Lys”, Reference: J003033437
Model: Grande Seconde Paillonnée “Fleur de Lys”, Reference: J003033437

The latter, the fleur de vie, is a geometric design that has traveled through millennia and across cultures. It’s a beautiful image representing the birth and growth of all living things on Earth. A cluster made of the golden ratio (a design formula for obtaining perfect proportions), it is comprised of overlapping interwoven circles.

Model: Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée “Fleur de Vie”, Reference: J005003244
Model: Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée “Fleur de Vie”, Reference: J005003244

The Grande Seconde Paillonnée model features a 43mm case in 18-carat red gold whereas the Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée comes with an 18-karat red gold case set with 232 diamonds.

Caseback of Grande Seconde Paillonnée, Reference: J003033437
Caseback of Grande Seconde Paillonnée, Reference: J003033437

The Grande Seconde Paillonnée model houses a Jaquet Droz 2663.P self-winding mechanical movement featuring silicon balance spring and 18-karat red-gold oscillating weight.

Caseback of Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée, Reference: J005003244
Caseback of Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée, Reference: J005003244

The engine driving the Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée model is a Jaquet Droz 2653.P, self-winding mechanical movement with silicon balance spring and 18-karat red-gold oscillating weight. These movements can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback.

Technical details

Collection: Ateliers D’art Collection

Model: Grande Seconde Paillonnée
Numerus Clausus of 8
Reference: J003033437

Movement
Jaquet Droz 2663.P, self-winding mechanical movement, silicon balance spring and pallet horns, double barrel, 18-karat red gold oscillating weight
Jeweling: 30 jewels
Power reserve: 68 hours
Frequency: 28,800 v.p.h.

Indications
Off-centered hours and minutes at 12 o’clock
Large off-centered second at 6 o’clock

Case
18-karat red gold case
Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 12.06 mm
Individual limited serial number engraved on the case-back
Water resistance: To 3 bar (30 meters)

Dial
Blue Grand Feu paillonné-enameled and silver opaline dial
18-karat red gold applique
Hands: Blued steel

Strap
Rolled-edge hand-made blue alligator
18-karat red gold ardillon buckle

Model: Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée
Numerus Clausus of 8
Reference: J005003244

Movement
Jaquet Droz 2653.P, self-winding mechanical movement, silicon balance spring and pallet horns, double barrel, flat bridges, 18-karat red gold oscillating weight
Jeweling: 28 jewels
Power reserve: 68 hours
Frequency: 28,800 v.p.h.

Indications
Off-centered hours and minutes at 12 o’clock

Case
18-karat red gold case set with 232 diamonds, total of 1.23 carats.
Diameter: 35 mm
Height: 10.80 mm
Individual limited serial number engraved on the case-back
Water resistance: To 3 bar (30 meters)

Dial
Blue Grand Feu paillonné-enameled and white mother-of-pearl dial
18-karat red gold applique
Hands: Blued steel

Strap
Rolled-edge hand-made blue alligator
18-karat red gold ardillon buckle

Total Carat Weight/Diamonds/Coloured Gems
IF to VVSI, Full Cut, D to G
Total number of diamonds: 232 diamonds
Total carat weight: 1.23 carats