Arnold & Son presents the Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi, a delicate unique piece that blends fine watchmaking and the artistic crafts. This red-gold timepiece with a mother-of-pearl dial highlights hand-painted carps and sculpted lotuses surround a flying tourbillon.
Highlighting the brand’s tradition of bespoke watch creations, this creation showcases a broad spectrum of skills within a red-gold case measuring 8.34 mm thick.
Arnold & Son offers the customers the chance to personalise the watches. Customers can apply substantial changes, making a case, movement or dial unique through engraving, gem-setting, miniature painting or sculpted elements. The brand’s iconic Ultrathin Tourbillon watch features a spacious dial surface with its off-centred dial at 12 o’clock. This arrangement provides an empty canvas that can be filled with whatever the customer desires.
Koi are a popular theme in traditional Japanese art and inspire tranquility. Above and beyond their beauty and serenity, they are a symbol of perseverance in the face of adversity.
A Tancho carp, recognisable thanks to the large red mark on its head, swims on the right-hand side of the dial. Peering out from beneath the sleeve, it is the first to be seen when checking the time. The scene continues with another koi in shades of white and orange gracing the other side of the dial.
Above these ornamental carp float three lotus blossoms. The petals are cut from silver and shaped, before being engraved, polished and painted in dazzling white lacquer. Each flower’s pistil is formed separately using the same techniques, then the two parts are combined.
The carp and lotus leaves, meanwhile, are painted by hand using incredibly thin brushes that allow a wealth of details to be added, such as scales, barbels and striped fins. The base of the dial is made from blue-toned mother-of-pearl, its iridescent shimmer evoking the water in which this charming scene unfolds.
The Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi watch has a 42mm red gold case and it houses the calibre A&S8200, an ultra-thin haute horlogerie movement with a thickness of 2.97 mm. Despite its compact size, this manually wound movement delivers an exceptional 90-hour power reserve. The movement displays the hours and minutes in an off-centred dial at 12 o’clock. At 6 o’clock, an aperture reveals a tourbillon whose construction is special in more ways than one.
First and foremost, the tourbillon is a ‘flying’ variety, meaning that it only has a lower carriage bridge. Since the top is not held in place, a few precious millimetres of height can be saved, thus freeing up the view of this timekeeping mechanism. The balance, meanwhile, is off-centred from the carriage axis, creating a dynamic visual impression as the tourbillon rotates.
Another distinctive feature is the balance bridge, which is domed and extends slightly from the dial, ensuring that the rest of the movement is unaffected by the total height. This, in turn, makes the tourbillon’s rotation all the more spectacular. The effect is further accentuated by the skeletonised main plate located just beneath the tourbillon.
The watch is worn on a hand-stitched alligator leather strap with an 18-carat red gold (5N) pin buckle.
Model: Ultrathin Tourbillon Koi
Hours, minutes and flying tourbillon
Calibre A&S8200, 1 minute flying tourbillon, manual winding
Diameter: 32.00 mm
Thickness: 2.97 mm
Power reserve: 90 hours
Frequency: 3 Hz / 21,600 vph
Main plate: Côtes de Genève stripes radiating from the centre and hand-engraved tourbillon bridge
Bridges: polished and chamfered by hand
Wheels: circular satin-finished
Screws: blued and chamfered, mirror-polished heads
Tourbillon carriage: satin-finished, polished and chamfered
Miniature painting on black mother-of-pearl
Silver lotus flowers, engraved and painted by hand
18-carat red gold (5N) case
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Thickness: 12.23 mm (with crystal)
Crystal: Domed sapphire with an anti-reflective coating on both sides
Case back: Sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 30 metres / 100 feet
Hand-stitched alligator leather strap
Pin buckle in 18-carat red gold (5N)
CHF 89,000 excl. tax (subject to change)