Following on from its U21 and U22 models, Angelus is presenting another variation based on its skeletonised flying tourbillon movement. The Angelus A-250 calibre has once again been suspended within a case made from titanium and CTP (Carbon Thin Ply): a hard and lightweight carbon composite.
The Angelus U23 comes in a series of eight unique pieces featuring skeletonised PVD-treated titanium bridges, with each model showcasing a different colour.
Materials, shapes and structures are arranged to create a sporty, technical and finely honed timepiece. Measuring 42 mm in diameter and 10.3 mm thick, the case mixes titanium lugs with a CTP case back and middle.
Maximum lightness and rigidity, with ultra scratch-resistant titanium, provides physical protection for the most exposed areas. The solid, conventional-looking metal and the technical appearance of the carbon fibre inject the U23 with visual energy. Meanwhile coloured bridges, hovering above the CTP main plate, put these pieces in a class of their own.
Geometric, open-worked and crafted from titanium, these graphically designed bridges are coloured using the PVD technique in one of eight shades that also grace the minute circle.
Each shade identifies a unique piece named after a cocktail: U23 Negroni is orange, like the blend of Gin and Vermouth. U23 Cosmopolitan adopts the shade of blueberry Vodka. U23 Ocean View startles in Curaçao blue and U23 Tequila Sunrise recreates the orange, pink and blue layers formed by citrus fruit juice and grenadine with the idyllic sea in the background.
The coloured bridges are screwed into the main plate, which is also made from CTP. Carbon Thin Ply draws on the ultralight and ultra-rigid properties of carbon fibre. Sheets of carbon are piled into several hundreds of successive layers per block of material. Each layer is orientated differently to create a multi-hatched network that is particularly solid given the density of the layers.
Angelus has chosen to use the highest quality of this material: 150 g/m² CTP. In addition, the CTP is solidified using a technical resin fired at a high temperature and high pressure. In this way, its extreme hardness adds to the fibre’s structural properties.
CTP is made into blocks and cut from a solid piece using numerical control machines, just like a metal. Its nature, presentation and machining process ensure optimal structural integrity and unique qualities that enhance the watch mechanism and wearing comfort. This is because CTP is lightweight, comfortable, soft to the touch, anti-allergenic, fully dermo-compatible, and non-magnetic.
The Angelus A-250 calibre plays an essential aesthetic role with its very simple, legible, and vertical structure. An open-worked barrel at 12 o’clock with a 90-hour power reserve; a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock for enhanced timekeeping; a gear train between the two to ensure transmission – these functional organs are anchored to three titanium bridges, giving the U23 its unique personality. Thanks to these bridges, the movement floats above the CTP main plate, as if suspended on stilts.
The fact that the main plate is crafted from carbon is a technical feat in its own right. The rigidity of the material makes this possible; conversely, this same resistance makes it difficult to pierce. All the holes made in the high-tech bodywork are therefore set with solid-gold chatons that hold the jewels. This is a classic technique that has been adapted to a different context and to an extreme level of technical performance to protect the CTP main plate.
The tourbillon of the Angelus A-250 calibre is a flying version with no upper bridge. It appears to float freely, with a large window cut away from the main plate in the background. This allows light to enter and to illuminate the rotating regulating organ. In this rigorously adjusted movement, the arms of the tourbillon carriage mirror the bridges and all the wheels of the movement. All of these components are open-worked lengthways, which means they look lighter, as well as weighing less.
Hours and minutes
Calibre A-250, hand-wound mechanical, one-minute flying tourbillon
Jewels: 18, set in gold chatons
Diameter: 32.60 mm
Thickness: 5.78 mm
Power reserve: 90 hours
Frequency: 3 Hz / 21,600 vph
Finishes: steel components chamfered and polished by hand. Bridges in chamfered and sandblasted grade 5 titanium, with coloured PVD treatments
Main plate acting as a dial in CTP (Carbon Thin Ply) carbon fibres, hands and hour-markers with Super-LumiNova®
Material: CTP carbon and titanium
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Thickness: 10.30 mm
Crystal: box sapphire, with anti-reflective treatment on inner surface
Case back: sapphire
Water resistance: 30 metres/3 ATM
Material: Carbon-treated alligator leather with titanium insert
Buckle: pin, grade 5 titanium
8 unique pieces
U23 Aviation: 0TCCB.B04A
U23 Cosmopolitan: 0TCCB.B05A
U23 Manhattan: 0TCCB.B11A
U23 Negroni: 0TCCB.B08A
U23 Ocean View: 0TCCB.B07A
U23 Sidecar: 0TCCB.B10A
U23 Tequila Sunrise: 0TCCB.B09A
U23 Vodka Stinger: 0TCCB.B06A
Global retail price
CHF 43,000 excl. tax (may be subject to modifications)