GENUS is an independent Geneva watchmaking brand founded by Sébastien Billières and Catherine Henry. Its debut haute-horlogerie master piece, the GNS 1 timepiece introduces a completely new and original approach to telling time. The timepiece featured in this article is the model in white gold (GNS1.2WG).
Created after ten years of extensive research and three years of development, this mechanical timepiece incorporates an extra ordinary feature for the first time in the world of fine watchmaking: Mechanical elements move from one orbit to the other and give information about the time. The case, movement and time display complications of this exceptional timepiece are manufactured in 18K gold.
With GENUS, you’ll learn to read the time differently. Hours are indicated at 9 o’clock, tens-of-minutes are shown by the lead traveling indicator – named “the Genus” – which moves freely from one central orbit to the other, and the precise minute is read on the rotating dial in the traditional 3 o’clock position. Patents for two display complications are pending – one for the hours display complication, and the other for the circulating tens-of-minutes display.
The tens-of-minutes display is captivating. The lead Genus shows the passing of time in 10-minute increments and is followed by 11 Genera (‘genera’ being the plural of ‘genus’) that progress radially along the 8-shaped orbital path, like a kinetic sculpture. As the lead Genus traces its path around the two distinct foci, a rose window is formed by the Genera every 15 and 45 minutes, alternating between the upper and lower tracks of the 8. As time passes, this gives the watch a fascinating and ever changing face. To know the exact time, simply note the hour shown and add the precise minute to the tens-of-minutes indicated by the Genus.
The timepiece is powered by a hand-wound manufacture calibre in 18K gold and features a variable inertia balance wheel. The main base plate is in two parts and separates energy regulation and distribution, from transmission.
All movement components are hand-finished in keeping with the exacting criteria of Haute Horlogerie and feature a hand-bevelled main plate and bridges, circular-grained and bevelled wheels, with most steel components that are black-polished (poli noir finish) and bevelled.
All flank drawing is done by hand. The 18K gold display module has the same exceptional degree of finishing. The combination of a generous dial aperture and box-domed, flush-mounted sapphire crystal frees the view on the module’s architecture and its complexity.
Model name: GNS 1
Model reference: GNS1.2WG
Movement and display module
Hand-wound manufacture caliber
Diameter: 38 mm
Thickness: 7.7 mm
Number of movement & module components: 418
Number of rubies: 26
Frequency: 2.5 Hz
Semi-oscillation/hour: 18 000
Power reserve: Approximately 50 hours
Modular movement in two parts:
– One for energy storage and transmission
– The other for energy distribution and regulation
Numbers and indicators: With SuperLuminova™
Hand-finishing of the watch module & movement
– The hour is shown by the large fixed, arrow-shaped index in the traditional 9 o’clock position
– The hours advance in a peripheral motion with periodic angular orientation (recovery by one quarter turn) in the reading direction
– The tens-of-minutes indicator – the “Genus” (a free-circulating element) – moves along an orbital transfer path between two foci, tracing a figure 8 at the watch center. It allows tens-of minutes to be read thanks to two dials, each located in the center of the foci
– The lead Genus is followed by 11 Genera (‘genera’ being the plural of ‘genus’) along the 8- shaped orbital path, like a kinetic sculpture. A rose window is formed by the Genera every 15 and 45 minutes, alternating between the upper and lower tracks of the 8, giving the watch a captivating and ever-changing face
– The precise minute is indicated by the small fixed, arrow-shaped index in the traditional 3 o’clock position
Material: 18K white gold, rhodium plated
[18K ethical gold: Sourced through ethical gold supply chain, certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC)]
Cushion shaped, consisting of 24 components
Diameter: 43 mm on the dial side and 41.5 mm on the underside (slightly conical profile)
Thickness: 13.1 mm (including sapphire crystals)
18K gold crown featuring the brand name G-E-N-U-S debossed in high relief on the circumference for winding grip and the logo symbol engraved on the crown face
Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Case back fixed with gold screws has an anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Water resistant to 3 ATM (approximately 30 meters)
Straps (non-exotic leather)
Navy blue calfskin with “boot maker’s finish”, hand sewn (Leather strap sourced through ethical supply chain, with certified traceability)
Pin buckle in 18K white gold, engraved with the GENUS logo
18K gold folding clasp available upon request
CHF 288,500 – VAT not included (CHF 310’700 including VAT)
Limited edition of 8 pieces
Note: The GENUS GNS 1 is now competing under the ‘Mechanical Exception’ category in the 2019 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) award.
More details at www.genuswatches.swiss