Presented in a highly exclusive limited series, the new “Smalta Clara Hummingbird” watches based on the Jaquet Droz’s iconic Petite Heure Minute line incorporates an ancient decorative technique known as plique-à-jour enamel on its dial.

In 2018, Jaquet Droz Ateliers d’Art brought the plique-à-jour enamelling into the present, and breathed life into watchmaking creations evoking the era of cathedrals, when the foundations of plique-à-jour enamel – some 1500 years ago – were formed.

These foundations involve creating an enamel composition made, not from a single piece, but from multiple joined pieces, separated by a thread of gold. The technique, reminiscent of stained glass, requires a rare dexterity when firing the enamels, as each passage in the oven risks altering the color as well the integrity of the enameled sections.

Ultimately, plique-à-jour enamel (or smaltaclara in Latin) allows for the creation of partitioned decorations in infinite color variations, which are literally bathed in light. Applied to watchmaking, this demanding technique gives Jaquet Droz the freedom to design timepieces entirely void of case backs, illuminating the movement in soft, radiant light.

The Petite Heure Minute “Smalta Clara Hummingbird” uses the smallest Jaquet Droz movement, a descendant of the Charming Bird. The size of this caliber, reduced to the extreme, frees up the maximum amount of space on the dial, perfect for carrying out the plique-à-jour enamel work on as large a surface as possible.

With its striking plumage, the hummingbird – found in the prestigious Tropical Bird Repeater as well – takes center stage and offers up an extraordinary spectacle of color that changes with orientation and the light.

Two colorful birds were created by the Jaquet Droz Ateliers d’Art to bring the composition to life. In the first, pink and light blue tones echo a mother-of-pearl dial within a red gold case set with 100 diamonds (0.89 carat). In the second, the hummingbird is adorned with green and turquoise feathers over a shaded blue background.

The mother-of-pearl dial, displaying two hands in blue steel, is housed within a white gold case that is also set with 100 diamonds. Each model is equipped with an oscillating weight in either gold or platinum engraved by hand featuring the hummingbird.

The two models, strictly limited to eight pieces each, come on satin straps that match the dominant tones of each creation.

Technical details

Collection: Les Ateliers D’art

Model: Petite Heure Minute Smalta Clara Humming Bird
Reference: J005503501, Numerus Clausus of 8

Movement
Jaquet Droz 6150, self-winding mechanical movement, silicon balance spring and pallet horns, platinum oscillating weight with 18-karat red gold applique.
Individual limited edition serial number engraved on the oscillating weight
Jewelling: 29 jewels
Power reserve: 38 hours
Frequency: 21,600 v.p.h.

Indications
Off-centered hours and minutes

Case
18-karat red gold case set with 100 diamonds (0.89 carat)
Diameter: Ø 35 mm
Height: 10.83 mm
Water resistance: To 3 bar (30 meters)

Dial
18-karat white gold dial with “plique-à-jour” Grand Feu enamel, white mother-of-pearl subdial
18-karat red gold applied ring
Hands: 18-karat red gold

Bracelet
Rolled-edge hand-made burgundy satin strap
Buckle: 18-karat red gold ardillon

Total Carat Weight / Diamonds
IF to VVSI, Full Cut, D to G
Total number of diamonds: 100 diamonds
Total carat weight: 0.89 carat

Model: Petite Heure Minute Smalta Clara Humming Bird
Reference: J005504501, Numerus Clausus of 8

Movement
Jaquet Droz 6150, self-winding mechanical movement, silicon balance spring and pallet horns, platinum oscillating weight with 18-karat white gold applique.
Individual limited edition serial number engraved on the oscillating weight
Jewelling: 29 jewels
Power reserve: 38 hours
Frequency: 21,600 v.p.h.

Indications
Off-centered hours and minutes

Case
18-karat white gold case set with 100 diamonds (0.89 carat)
Diameter Ø 35 mm
Height 10.83 mm
Water resistance: To 3 bar (30 meters)

Dial
18-karat white gold dial with “plique-à-jour” Grand Feu enamel, white mother-of-pearl subdial
18-karat white gold applied ring
Hands: Blued steel

Bracelet
Rolled-edge hand-made dark blue satin strap
Buckle: 18-karat white gold ardillon

Total Carat Weight / Diamonds
IF to VVSI, Full Cut, D to G
Total number of diamonds: 100 diamonds
Total carat weight: 0.89 carat