The first TUDOR chronograph, with a self-winding Manufacture Calibre, column wheel and vertical clutch is now available in an S&G version.
Since the presentation of TUDOR’s first chronograph in 1970, of the Oysterdate, the brand has always produced watches that are closely tied to the world of motorsports.
In the same way, since 1954 TUDOR has been constantly improving its professional divers’ watches. The daringly hybrid Black Bay Chrono S&G chronograph (S&G stands for Steel & Gold) combines this aquatic heritage, represented by the Black Bay family, with the queen of the racetrack, the chronograph, for a precious sporty-chic result with an undeniable touch of nostalgia.
Remaining faithful to the Black Bay aesthetic, the Black Bay Chrono S&G model (reference 79363N) makes the famous “snowflake” hands – the signature of TUDOR divers’ watches since 1969 – its own in a gold version refined for optimum readability against the domed matt-black dial. Its counters are hollowed and their champagne-colour creates optimum contrast.
Following the TUDOR chronograph tradition, a date aperture is positioned at 6 o’clock. The main Black Bay characteristics are retained, in a slim 41-millimetre steel case and equipped with yellow-gold pushers inspired by the very first generation of TUDOR chronographs. A fixed bezel in yellow gold with a black anodised aluminium insert and tachymetric scale completes the face of this elegant, sporty chronograph.
With a 70-hour power reserve, a silicon balance spring and Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute certification, the Manufacture chronograph Calibre MT5813 that drives the Black Bay Chrono S&G model is a high performance movement. It was designed in the purest watchmaking tradition, with a column-wheel mechanism and vertical clutch. In keeping with the TUDOR philosophy of quality, it presents extraordinary robustness and reliability, guaranteed by an array of extreme tests applied to all TUDOR products.
Derived from the Manufacture chronograph calibre Breitling 01, with a high-precision regulating organ developed by TUDOR and dedicated finishes, this movement is the result of a lasting collaboration between the two brands. They have chosen to pool their expertise in the design and production of certain mechanical movements, which they use jointly.
The fabric strap is one of the signatures of TUDOR, which remains one of the first watch brands to offer it. Woven on 19thcentury Jacquard looms by a 150-year-old family firm from the region of St-Etienne, its manufacturing quality and comfort on the wrist are unique. The Black Bay Chrono model presents a black strap, chosen by TUDOR and woven by the firm.
The Reference 79363N is also available with a steel and yellow gold bracelet inspired by the folding riveted bracelets of TUDOR watches produced in the 1950’s and 60’s. These were famous for having rivet heads for attaching the links, shown on the side of the bracelet as well as a stepped construction. These two aesthetic details are incorporated into the new model, integrating modern manufacturing methods using solid links. Finally, in a spirit of 1970’s racing, the Black Bay Chrono offers a bund type option in brown aged leather with ecru stitching and a folding clasp.
Like other models in the Black Bay line, the Black Bay Chrono S&G Reference 79363N model features a dial inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced in the 1950’s. It also adopts the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “snowflake” that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Finally, the large winding crown, characteristic of the first generation of TUDOR divers’ watches, is also adopted in this model.
The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical rerelease of a classic, it brings together over 60 years of TUDOR divers’ watches and yet remains firmly anchored in the present. Whilst it is neo-vintage in conception, its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finish are consistent with today’s most rigorous requirements.
Model: TUDOR BLACK BAY CHRONO S&G
41 mm steel case with polished and satin finish
Fixed yellow gold bezel with matt black anodised aluminium disc with tachymetric scale, yellow gold markings
Yellow gold screw-down winding crown with the TUDOR rose in relief
Yellow gold screw-down pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock
Black with champagne-coloured counters, domed
Date at 6 o’clock
Domed sapphire crystal
Waterproof to 200 m (660 f)
Manufacture Calibre MT5813 (COSC) with chronograph function
Self-winding mechanical chronograph movement with bidirectional rotor system
Swiss Chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4Hz)
Total diameter: 30.4 mm
Thickness: 7.23 mm
Jewels: 41 jewels
Power reserve: Approximately 70 hours
Central hour and minute hands
Chronograph seconds in the centre
Chronograph 45-minute counter at 3 o’clock
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Instantaneous date at 6 o’clock with rapid adjustment without non-correction range
Stop seconds for precise time setting
Riveted steel and yellow gold bracelet, polished and satin finish, or in brown leather with removable bund, with folding clasp and safety catch, or black fabric strap with buckle
Swiss price (VAT incl.)
With bracelet: CHF 6,500.–
With strap: CHF 5,350.–